Facing the facade with silicate bricks. Brick facade: possible problems and solutions. The price of hyper-pressed brick

Clinker brick - the best material for facing the facade of a house

Houses lined with brick from the outside are popular with private developers. Often a layer of effective insulation is placed between the wall and the cladding. Such the wall is usually called a three-layer.

With external walls of any material, but lined with bricks, the house looks solid and elegant.

Brick cladding is resistant to atmospheric and mechanical influences. Durable - retains its protective and decorative properties for a long timefunctions no replacement or update. A house with a brick cladding feels safe "like behind a stone wall."

For cladding, ordinary masonry ceramic or silicate bricks are used - this is a low-budget option.

Most often, the walls of houses are faced with a special front ceramic brick.

But clinker bricks are especially good for facing the walls of a house. True, the cost of facing the walls of a clinker brick house is the highest.

Clinker bricks have very low water absorption (4-6%) and therefore unusually hardy— maintains 150 cycles of freezing and defrosting. On the clinker wall there is no green moss, fungus and mold.

The resistance of clinker bricks to mechanical stress, to abrasion is very high - you will not see chips on it.

Small porosity contributes to the fact that the brick does not accumulate dirt on the surface and is easy to clean. The house will look like new for a long time.

Cladding made of clinker bricks can be carefully disassembled brick by brick, and then the brick can be reused. The clinker is easily cleaned from the remains of the solution. This property is very useful if it will be necessary in a dozen or another years to change the insulation under the cladding.

A variety of colors and textures of the surface of clinker bricks allows you to implement any design idea. Clinker brick cladding will suit both a respectable mansion and a modest economy class house.

How clinker bricks are made

Clinker bricks are made in much the same way as ordinary ceramic ones. Bricks formed from clay mass are fired in a kiln. The main difference is that firing is carried out at a higher temperature of 1100-1300 about C.

Brick color depends on the composition of the raw materials, firing mode and additives in the clay mass.

The surface of ordinary clinker bricks is even and smooth. But they also produce bricks with a textured surface.

Produce glazed bricks. Such bricks have water absorption close to zero.

Clinker brick has a variety of shapes and colors. The surface of the brick can be glazed.

In addition to standard rectangular bricks, produce shaped bricks, which are used for laying window sills, cornices and decorative elements.

On sale there are bricks of non-standard size. For example, narrow, 5.5 wide cm., different heights - 5 cm, 6,5 cm or 7.1 cm.

Brick-clinker facade design

Brick wall cladding is a rather expensive option for finishing the facade, especially from clinker bricks. And it will be triple insulting after solid spending, to get a nondescript, not expressive facade of the house.

In order to have a spectacular and respectable house, you should entrust the design of the facade to a professional architect with experience in working with clinker bricks in advance, before the start of construction.

To achieve harmony with the facade of the house, the fence around the site is also often made of clinker bricks.

When designing a clinker facade, choose the color of bricks and masonry joints, the method (pattern) of masonry. The seams of the masonry can match the color of the brick, and then the facade looks smooth from a distance.

The seams of the masonry can be contrasting in color with the brick. In this case, the brick bonding pattern on the wall will be visible.

The facade is decorated with clinker brick decor different shapes and colors. Most often, inserts of shaped or colored bricks are made at the corners of the facade, around window and door openings, and clinker window sills are also arranged.

They make sinking or vice versa, protruding from the plane of the facade brick inserts with a textured surface in a contrasting color.

House with clinker brick cladding white color looks not standard, fresh and neat.

It is important to observe the harmony of form and color, not to overdo it. A house with clinker cladding should not look gaudy and cheap.

Secrets of clinker brick wall cladding

At a house with brick walls, for structural reasons, it is also convenient to brick the plinth, and best of all clinker.

The plinth is most susceptible to moisture, and the high moisture and frost resistance of the clinker will provide long-term protection of the walls and foundation insulation.

In addition, the clinker plinth cladding will serve as a reliable support for the brickwork of the wall cladding.

Cross-section of the junction of the basement and the wall of the house with clinker brick cladding.

In the figure: 1 - thermal insulation boards made of mineral wool with a water-windproof coating; 2 - ventilated gap; 3 - brick wall cladding, protrudes 2-3 cm beyond the basement plane; 4 - load-bearing wall; 5 - two layers of horizontal waterproofing of the wall; 6 - clinker plinth lining; 7 - a hole in the vertical seam between the bricks for water drainage and air inflow into the gap; 8 - vertical waterproofing of the foundation wall;

The plinth and foundation are insulated with waterproof insulation- extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) slabs, and lined with clinker bricks without a ventilated gap.

The top layer of horizontal waterproofing, pos.5, must be wrapped up, onto the wall, to a height of at least 150 mm., to protect the load-bearing wall from water, which can accumulate on the waterproofing layer in the ventilated gap.

Insulation for house walls with brick cladding

For insulation, it is convenient to use plates specially designed for insulation of facades with brick cladding. Such plates have hydrophobic (water-repellent) impregnation and outer water-windproof layer. The density of mineral wool boards is not less than 60 kg / m 3.

If insulation boards without a protective coating are used, then from above the insulation layer must be covered with a vapor-permeable water-windproof film.

Mineral wool insulation does not prevent the exit of construction and operational moisture from the load-bearing wall.

Work on the insulation of the facade with mineral wool and laying of the cladding can be done immediately, in the process of construction and interior decoration, without waiting for the wall to dry.

If the walls of the house are insulated with polymer insulation (EPS), then, according to the requirements of fire safety rules, it is necessary to make fire breaks in the insulation layer - fire-resistant inserts made of mineral wool boards around window and door openings, as well as at the top of the wall, under the cornice overhang.

Using different types of insulation for insulation of one wall is not very convenient and technologically advanced.

In addition, the polymer insulation is water-vapor impermeable. If you lay it on the wall right away, then the building moisture in the wall and interior decoration is conserved - the house does not dry out for a long time inside, the wooden parts in the walls rot, fungus and mold appear on the interior decoration.

Work on the insulation of the facade with polymer insulation and laying of brick cladding is recommended to be done one to three years after finishing work in the house. During this time, the walls will have time to dry from construction moisture.

It is not comfortable to move into a house that is not insulated, damp and cold, and waiting for the walls to dry for three years Not many owners will agree.

Thermal insulation boards made of aerated concrete, gas silicate, foam glass

Recently, two types of mineral insulation are gaining popularity - slabs of low-density cellular concrete and foam glass. These are heat-insulating boards based on materials already known and used in construction - autoclaved aerated concrete, gas silicate or foam glass.

Thermal insulation slabs made of cellular concrete have a density of 100 - 200 kg/m 3 and dry thermal conductivity coefficient 0.045 - 0.06 W/m about K. Mineral wool and polystyrene foam heaters have approximately the same thermal conductivity. Plates are produced with a thickness of 60 - 200 mm. Compressive strength class B1.0 (compressive strength not less than 10 kg / m 3.) Vapor penetration coefficient 0.28 mg/(m*year*Pa).

Heat-insulating slabs made of cellular concrete are a good alternative to mineral wool and polystyrene foam insulation.

Trademarks of heat-insulating slabs made of cellular concrete well-known in the construction market: Multipor, AEROC Energy, Betol.

Insulation of the wall of the house with foam glass plates.

The most important advantage of aerated concrete and foam glass insulation compared to traditional mineral wool and foam polymers is more high durability and environmental friendliness. The materials do not contain any organics - it is an artificial stone or glass.

Ventilated gap between cladding and insulation

Water may appear on the border between the lining and the insulation.

Moisture appears as a result of condensation on the surface of a brick of water vapor, a constant flow of which tends to pass through the wall from the premises to the outside (p).

In addition, water can get inside due to the non-tightness of the cladding when the wall is soaked with oblique rain.

Water on the inner surface of the cladding soaks the insulation, and also flows down and collects on the horizontal waterproofing of the plinth and lintels above the openings.

If vapor-permeable mineral wool boards are used for wall insulation, then between the cladding and the insulation layer, a ventilated gap must be left, width 3-5 cm.

The ventilated gap must be through and ventilated to the entire height of the wall.

For air circulation in the gap in the brick lining, holes are left in the vertical joints of the masonry. Water accumulated on the horizontal waterproofing flows out through the same holes.

In the brick cladding of the wall between the bricks, vertical seams are left free from mortar for air circulation in the gap and water runoff.

Special inserts are installed in the mortar-free vertical seams between the bricks to protect the holes from insects.

Holes in brick cladding are made in the following places:

Above the horizontal waterproofing of the basement (pos. 7) and lintels above the openings (pos. 2 in the figure), for water drainage and air inflow into the gap, every second or third vertical seam is left unfilled with mortar.
At the top, under the cornice overhang, in the third or fourth row of brickwork from the top, for air to escape from the gap, vertical seams are left free from mortar at the rate of one or two seams for each 1 m 2 wall area.

A ventilated gap is also needed when cladding single-layer walls with bricks (without a layer of insulation between the cladding and the wall), if the load-bearing wall is made of or without sand, as well as when cladding wooden and frame walls.

If the facade is insulated with plates of polymer insulation - foam plastic, extruded polystyrene foam, then ventilated gap is not needed. In the vertical seams of the masonry cladding, only holes are left for water drainage every 800 - 1000 mm.

Brick cladding or walls made of SIP panels do without ventilated gap.

Masonry brick cladding of the walls of the house

Wall cladding with ventilated gap

In the figure: 1 - masonry of the bearing wall; 2 - plates of mineral wool insulation with a water-windproof layer; 3 - anchor (connection) made of galvanized or stainless steel with a booster cuff; 4 - laying of clinker brick cladding; 5 - ventilated gap; 6 - general wall thickness from 460 mm.

For wall cladding with a ventilated gap, clinker is used. brick of standard sizes 120 wide mm.

The lining masonry is fastened to the load-bearing wall with galvanized or stainless steel anchors, pos. 3. Steel anchors are usually laid in the horizontal joints of the masonry of the load-bearing wall to a depth of at least 50 mm. Insulation plates are pierced on the ends of the anchors sticking out of the bearing wall and pressed against the wall with special plastic booster cuffs.

When laying cladding lift the end of the anchor slightly up and also laid in the horizontal seams of the masonry cladding.

Such an inclined position of the anchor, pos. 3, in the gap contributes to the fact that drops of water flowing down the surface of the cladding do not flow into the masonry, but move down the anchor, to the booster collar. The cuff has a dripper from which water drips down.

Such a decision prevents the appearance of hard-to-remove efflorescence on the outer surface of the cladding.

Fastening anchors are placed in horizontal joints every 6-9 rows of masonry brick cladding or every 2-3 rows of masonry blocks of a bearing wall.

Wall cladding without ventilation gap

In the figure: 1 - masonry of the bearing wall; 2 - insulation boards made of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS, XPS); 3 - anchor (bond) made of fiberglass, galvanized or stainless steel; 4 - masonry lining of narrow clinker bricks; 5 - total wall thickness from 360 mm.

For wall cladding without a ventilated gap, you can use a narrow clinker custom size brick 55 wide mm. or brick of standard width, but with masonry on the edge. This cladding will cost less.

Fastening anchors are conveniently placed in the horizontally matching seams of the wall masonry and cladding. To select matching seams, you can for cladding use brick height 5 cm, 6,5 cm or 7.1 cm., and also slightly change the thickness of the masonry seams.

Anchors connecting the wall and cladding, pos.3, can be made of steel or plastic, and also have a different design. On sale there are anchors that are laid in the seams of the masonry, and there are those that are screwed into the load-bearing wall.

Anchors laid in the masonry seams can be made independently. As an anchor, you should use pieces of galvanized steel wire with a diameter of 4 - 6 mm. or perforated galvanized steel tape with a thickness of at least 0.8 mm., or galvanized masonry mesh. Both ends of the wire anchor are bent to fix the masonry seam in the mortar. The tape anchor is fixed in the seam by filling the perforation holes with mortar.

Expansion joints in masonry cladding

It is known that when the temperature changes, all materials shrink or expand. Brick cladding does the same. Moreover, different sections of the masonry change their size in different ways. For example, a section of a wall heated by the sun expands more than an adjacent section in the shade. Such changes create stresses in the cladding layer and can lead to the appearance of cracks on it.

To protect the cladding from the appearance of cracks where it is not necessary, in the cladding masons deliberately create a crack where it will be imperceptible. Expansion joints are arranged in the lining masonry.

Vertical expansion joints in masonry are made every 12 meters of the wall. On dark facades heated by the sun, this distance is recommended to be reduced to 9 meters. On the north side of the house, the distance between the expansion joints is increased to 15 meters.

To make the expansion joint invisible, it is combined with the seams of the masonry. At the location of the expansion joint, the joints between the masonry bricks are not filled with masonry mortar. Empty seams are protected from the outside with sealing tape or elastic sealant.

Horizontal expansion joints in the cladding are made under the balcony slab, as well as under other structures that limit the thermal expansion of the cladding in the vertical direction.

Mortars for laying brick cladding

For laying brick cladding, you can use a conventional cement-based masonry mortar. To prepare the solution, mix 1 part of cement, grade not lower than M400, and 4 parts of washed quartz sand. Then add the required amount of water.

Lime should not be added to the masonry mortar.. The solution with lime will serve as a source of hard-to-remove efflorescence on the masonry surface. But the usual cement-sand mortar has low plasticity and is inconvenient to use.

Masonry mortar is best prepared from ready-made dry mixes specially designed for clinker masonry. Mixtures have additives that ensure the absence of efflorescence. In addition, dry masonry mixes for clinker contain a specially selected filler - granulate. Seams from such a solution are dense, with a minimum number of pores, weakly absorb water.

The color of the masonry joints on a regular mortar will be gray.

If it is necessary to make the seams of the masonry colored, then to prepare the solution, use ready-made dry mixes with dye of the required color.

Color solutions tend to be more expensive. To reduce the amount of colored mortar for laying the cladding, masonry is performed on a regular gray mortar. The mortar is laid so that on the front side of the masonry the seams remain unfilled to a depth of approximately 1.5-2 cm.

Then the recesses in the seams are filled with a colored solution - grout (fugue) for clinker. The work is carried out 3-5 days after laying. When the grout solution begins to set, a piece of elastic hose is run along the seams to seal the fugue and form a concave surface in the seam.

Windows and doors in a three-layer wall

The figures below show how to correctly make openings for windows and doors in the wall of a house with clinker cladding.

The device of the external window sill made of clinker:

In the figure: 1 - clinker window sill (shaped brick or tile); 2 - joint sealing; 3 - window box; 4 - groove - drip; 5 - ventilated gap.

The window sill on the outside of the window is laid out of special-shaped clinker bricks. They also make a window sill from standard-shaped bricks, laying it on an edge with a slope for water drainage. In the latter version, a groove is cut on the bottom surface of the bricks - a dropper, so that water from the windowsill does not flow onto the wall.

Instead of a brick window sill, you can install standard metal or plastic ebbs. But such a solution usually does not look very aesthetically pleasing and presentable (cheap) for a house with clinker wall cladding.

Cut above the window external wall with clinker brick cladding:

In the figure: 1 - horizontal waterproofing with a twist on the wall; 2 - a hole in the vertical seam between the bricks for water drainage and ventilation; 3 - reinforced concrete lintel in the cladding, pasted over with clinker tiles; 4 - silicone sealant or sealing tape; 5 - a window located in the thickness of the heat-insulating layer; 6 - reinforced concrete jumper in the bearing layer of the wall.

Reinforced concrete lintels are installed above the window and door openings in the cladding, which are then pasted over with clinker tiles (in the figure above).

The best option is to make jumpers over openings made of clinker bricks. It is convenient to lay out a brick lintel in the form of an arch. Straight lintels made of vertically installed bricks are made with reinforcement of the vertical joints of the masonry and horizontal reinforcement of the masonry above the lintel.

Horizontal waterproofing must be laid above door and window openings, pos. 1, with inversion on the wall, to a height of 150 mm., to protect the load-bearing wall from water, which can accumulate on the waterproofing layer in the ventilated gap. For water drainage and ventilation of the gap in the brickwork above the waterproofing, holes are provided, pos. 2 in the picture

Durability, service life of the heater

In scientific articles, one can find statements that the duration of the effective operation of buildings, insulated with mineral wool or polystyrene boards, before the first overhaul is 25-35 years. During this period, a complete replacement of the insulation is required.

But to replace the insulation, you need destroy such a strong, beautiful and expensive clinker facade!

On the website of a well-known manufacturer of mineral wool products, it is stated that the service life of thermal insulation materials is at least 50 years subject to the company's recommendations on installation technology and operating conditions.

Moreover, the manufacturer does not explain what happens to the material at the end of its service life, and how to determine the moment when it needs to be replaced. It only notes the lack of an approved methodology for determining the durability of building materials. The question arises - what justifies the figure of 50 years?

All sources of information agree that the durability of mineral wool insulation, from various types of foamed polymers and ecowool is noticeably less than the materials from which the walls are laid.

It is known that organic substances age much faster than mineral ones. In the process of aging, the chemical composition and physical structure of the material changes. Material stops working in any building structure.

Mineral wool slabs contain 3-10% organic substances - binder resins. Over time, the binder gradually decomposes and ceases to hold the mineral wool particles together. Particles crumble, cotton wool loses its spatial structure, cakes, shrinks.

Any insulation gradually, over the years, loses its heat-saving properties..

It has been established that the higher the density of mineral wool boards ( kg / m 3), the slower the heat-saving properties of the insulation are lost. To increase service life it is recommended to use boards with high density, although they are more expensive. This rule is also true for other types of heaters.

When to change the heater?

The insulation should be changed when it ceases to perform its functions. How to define this moment?

Legislation in the field of construction and housing and communal services prescribes upon completion of the construction of the building, conduct an energy audit. In the course of the audit, with the help of measurements with devices (thermal imagers, etc.), the heat-saving parameters of walls and other enclosing structures are determined.

Based on the results of the audit, an energy passport is drawn up, the building is assigned to one or another energy-saving class.

In the European Union, for new private houses, the procedure for obtaining an energy passport is mandatory. The energy efficiency class of a house greatly affects the value of a property.

In the Russian Federation, an energy audit of private houses is not mandatory and is usually not carried out. And probably in vain.

After 25 - 30 years, the energy audit is carried out again. They compare the indicators of the heat-saving properties of walls, ceilings then (near the new house) and now.

If, for example, the heat transfer resistance of the wall has decreased by 1/3 or more from the original, then it is recommended to carry out a major overhaul - to change the insulation and the outer wall cladding.

After another 25 years (or earlier), the next regular audit is carried out. So, on the basis of periodic measurements of the heat-saving properties of the external fences of the house, the need to replace the insulation in one or another element of the house is determined.

Since the mass use of effective heaters began 20–25 years ago, and energy audits are not carried out in many cases, there are no reliable statistics on the service life of heaters used in the Russian Federation.

Under clinker cladding, it is best to do without heaters in the wall - build a house with single-layer walls of aerated concrete or porous ceramics and veneer them.

To increase the service life of a facade with a durable and expensive brick cladding, it is recommended apply mineral heaters made of aerated concrete or foam glass.

Traditional mineral wool insulation should have a high density, not less than 75 kg / m 3, and be manufactured by well-known manufacturers in the European Union.

When insulating the wall with polymeric insulation use only extruded polystyrene foam high density.

Find a contractor and order an energy audit of a newly built house. A house with proven energy-saving parameters will increase in price. And in the future, it will be possible to control the condition of the insulation in walls, floors and ceilings.

Work process

The masters firmly attach the wall of facing bricks to the supporting base. To do this, they lay special connections made of metal, basalt plastic or fiberglass.

We use high-quality connections made of basalt plastic to perform work - round rods with a diameter of 4 mm. Such material is not subject to corrosion and does not create "cold bridges".

For strong fastening, we install more than 4 ties per m 2 . One of the ends of the rod of the master is inserted into the vertical seam of the supporting base, and the other is installed into the horizontal seam of the completed cladding.

We select the length of basalt-plastic rods taking into account the following parameters:

bearing base thickness;
ventilated gap;
insulation thickness (if it is intended to be used in the performance of work);
thickness of facing brickwork.

Our experts lay out the external brick wall on the foundation of the building. At the same time, it is necessary to provide a gap of at least 3 cm between the cladding and the supporting structure. If you miss this important point in arranging ventilation, moisture will accumulate, thermal insulation will deteriorate, and mold will appear on the walls. For good ventilation of the lined brick facade, special slots are equipped in its lower and last row.

To prevent efflorescence from appearing on the masonry after wall cladding, our masters use a special solution from high-quality dry mixes. Manufacturers of these materials recommend using a masonry joint thickness of 10 mm. The SNiP states that vertical seams should be made with a thickness of 12 mm, and for horizontal seams this value is 10 mm. At the same time, we always fill the seams with mortar 100%.

Brickwork masters start from the corner of the building and lead from the bottom up. At the same time, the evenness of the wall is constantly checked using a level.

Brick laying starts from the corner

Important! If a cottage or house is built of wood, then its walls must be treated with an antiseptic.

Fastening mineral wool and checking the evenness of the masonry

Manufacturers of facing bricks offer a large selection of various shades, textures and geometric shapes. We advise you to pay attention to such factors:

Facing brick color. Palettes contain shades from light to dark saturated colors. To carry out design projects, it is possible to apply drawings on the front surface of the bricks.
The shape of the material is made not only in the form of classic rectangles, but also represented by combinations of various shapes, for example: trapezoids, rounded elements, cut corners.
The texture of the facing brick is smooth, chipped, corrugated, rough, "antique".

Finished work on standard brick wall cladding

Most importantly, avoid messing with amateurs! The video shows one of these works. This is an example of terrible masonry for facing a new house. The construction was carried out by "specialists" of such a high level that all the work was done "by eye".

Summary

To get a beautiful, strong and durable facade, choose the services of professional organizations. Call us, we will advise on all issues, inspect the object and perform facade cladding of any complexity!

Every owner has ever thought about the exterior of his house.The possibilities of the modern construction market in this regard are endless. It can be wall slabs, plastic and cladding with facade tiles, or a combination of them.But one of the most popular materials for cladding is brick. At the consumer, the brick is always associated with reliability and durability.In addition, due to the variety of its colors, textures, sizes, types of masonry, it becomes possible to create beautiful facades of buildings. If you veneer the old house with brick, then the old building will turn into a stylish and modern one.

How to choose a brick for facing the facade of a house?

Facing brick, regardless of the material, must meet certain requirements:

Correct geometric shape
clear line
Uniform shade
The surface must be free of cracks and delamination.
Frost resistance should be depending on the place of construction: F25, F35, F50, these figures reflect the number of cycles of alternate freezing / thawing, in which the product does not show signs of visible damage, and the compressive strength should not decrease by more than 20%. In order to choose correctly according to this indicator, it is necessary to remember the following, that products with F25 frost resistance are applicable in the southern regions of the country, F35 is applicable in central Russia, F50 is suitable in more northern regions.
Water absorption - not less than 6%

Comparison of ceramic and silicate bricks.

1. Ceramic brick. The filler in these bricks is clay. The preparation technology, in comparison with silicate, is more complex and time-consuming, therefore it is more expensive. The price for one varies within (depending on color, texture, shape) 10 - 25 rubles. Consider its positive properties:

Water absorption - 6 - 14%. GOST makes it possible to increase this indicator when changing the type of clay used.
Frost resistance - F25, F35, F50. Clinker products have this indicator equal to 100.
Low thermal conductivity from 0.3 to 0.5 W/m°C
A wide variety of textures, sizes and colors of the product, which makes it possible to clad not only the walls of the house, but also arches and columns.
The density of this brick is from 1300 to 1450 kg / m3, clinker - up to 2100 kg / m3. When calculating the bearing capacity of the foundation, this indicator is not unimportant.

2. Silicate brick. The filler is quartz sand. At the cost of one brick 7 - 16 rubles. Its characteristics:

Thermal conductivity - 0.38 - 0.7 W / m ° C
Frost resistance - 15 - 50 cycles, the manufacturer matters.
Water absorption - 6 - 8%.
Density - 1500 - 1950 kg / m3.
Large assortment of textures and colors.

In a comparative analysis of the characteristics, it turns out that both types of facing bricks have positive and negative properties. In terms of density (the exception is the clinker version) and thermal conductivity, the ceramic product wins.

Therefore, if necessary, improve the thermal conductivity of the house (more suitable for building structures made of brick, cinder block, etc.), or when facing a dilapidated building, to reduce the load on the foundation, a ceramic product is used.

With all of the above, silicate brick also has its advantages. It is cheaper, it has better sound insulation and absorbs less moisture. In terms of color and texture, the products do not differ much, ceramic products, in turn, have a much larger choice. The quality of the finished product directly depends on how conscientiously the manufacturer treats this.

3. Bricks made using semi-dry hyperpressing technology. For example, a Fagot brand product, shell rock filler. With other, almost identical indicators with ceramic bricks, its frost resistance reaches 100-150 cycles, and it also has an increased density. The price of one brick is 17 - 38 rubles.

For various reasons, developers make the cladding of their houses. By and large, they do it to protect the wooden wall of the building, in order to insulate it, or to renovate an old building. The reasons are different, but it is possible to correctly make a house cladding with bricks only once.

Cladding a house with bricks

To avoid mistakes, you must follow the following steps:

1. Calculate the required number of bricks. Having measured the area of the walls (the area of \u200b\u200bthe wall when subtracting the area of \u200b\u200bthe window and door), we take into account that 51 bricks are needed per 1 m2 of masonry, multiplying the resulting area by the number of bricks, we get the required amount. This is necessary not only for making estimates, but also for understanding what kind of one-time purchase of bricks needs to be made, since ceramic products purchased in the same color, but from different batches, may differ in shade.

2. If the house is frame or made of timber, then it is worth doing an antiseptic wood treatment. It is better if this is done twice, with an interval of one day.

3. Reinforce the existing foundation, and fill in the new one. The ligation of the foundations is performed as follows:

They drill a hole with a diameter of 12 mm, a depth of 100 mm if in concrete, if in a brick then 200 mm. This hole should be 100 mm below the top of the foundation with a downward slope of 15 to 20 degrees.
Periodic reinforcement of 12 mm is driven in there, so that it sticks out at least 150 mm.

When pouring a new foundation (recommended thickness of 30 cm), the anchors will be in concrete.
Waterproofing is carried out in two layers of roofing material.

4. In order to overlay a wooden house with bricks and not spoil the wood, it is necessary to arrange ventilation. The tree will absorb moisture and rot, and the arranged air (with a calculation of 75 cm per 20 m2 of area) and the presence of an air gap (30-40 mm) will create indoor conditions for the wood. This will allow wooden structures not to rot almost forever. The vents should be covered with a net from the penetration of rodents.

5. We turn to the decoration of the house with bricks, with the obligatory dressing of the cladding and the wall of the house. If the house is made of timber, then the nails are driven into the upper part of the logs, closer to the seam between them, while the angle of the nail is about 45 degrees. With a wire (soft, in two additions, the thickness of which is 3 mm), the timber is connected to the cladding. They wrap the wire around the nail, which is then finished off or folded. The wire is pulled straight to the middle of the brick, then to the sides by 20 cm. Thus, the entire perimeter is connected, in increments of 50 cm. There is no need to perform all the bundles in one row. They can be dispersed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe wall. In the case of a frame house, nails are needed for dressing, the length of which is 100-120 mm. Clamps are used in a block house.

6. When facing with ceramic products, the finished masonry is often covered with efflorescence (whitish stains). It is believed that this comes from the ingredients of the solution. To avoid this, professionals recommend preparing a solution from dry mixes. Or buy Portland cement without any additives.Foreign builders advise masonry using a cement-lime mortar, in their opinion, lime is able to neutralize the action of alkali. To prepare this solution, one part of Portland cement grade 500 is taken, mixed with 8 parts of sifted sand and lime paste is added there, in the amount of two parts.

7. The masonry is carried out from the bottom up, it is necessary to constantly check its compliance with the vertical plane using a plumb line. The seam should be no more than 10-14 mm in thickness. To provide better ventilation, laying is done 1 row below the eaves of the building.

A brick-lined house will please you for a long time with its quality of material and appearance.

The modern construction market offers a large number of finishing materials. But the brick facade is still popular with private developers. According to many, a brick-lined cottage looks solid, and the brick facades of private houses themselves are distinguished by increased durability and trouble-free operation.

These statements are true only if the main condition is met - the brick facade of the building is made in accordance with all the rules and using high-quality building materials. Otherwise, instead of prestige, such a decision will turn into a real headache for its owner.

In this article, we will cover:

What are the nuances you need to know before facing the house with bricks.
Do I need a ventilation gap when facing walls with bricks.
The better to connect the facing brick with the load-bearing wall.
Is it possible to overlay a wooden house with bricks.

Finishing the facade of the house with a brick: features

Most often, the developer, having decided to brick the house, is guided by the banal “I want”. A lot of moments are overlooked that directly affect the performance and service life of such a facade, the most important of which is the project.

Facades of brick buildings.

The facade material should be thought out at the design stage of the house, and not left “for later”.

If you neglect this rule, after the construction of the "box" a whole bunch of problems appear. It turns out that the width of the foundation is not enough to support the facing brick, because the owner, even at the construction stage, decided to additionally insulate the walls. The facade of a building made of front brick (and it has a lot of weight) exceeds the bearing capacity of the base and the strength of the foundation, as a result, the masonry cracks.

The workers do not know how to properly tie the brick facade to the load-bearing walls. As usual, they do it “in their own way” and “as simply as possible”, using a metal or fiberglass mesh, thin strips of galvanizing, etc. as links.

Therefore, in order not to make adjustments and corrections during construction, which inevitably leads to additional material costs, we are guided by the following few rules:

The brick facade should be considered in close connection with the material of the load-bearing walls, the type of facade insulation (if any), the architecture of the house and its design.
The brick facade perceives a significant wind load, which then, through special connections, must be transferred to the load-bearing walls. Those. a system arises: load-bearing wall-facade.
The service life of this type of facade, as well as all its structural elements: ties, insulation, etc., must correspond to the service life of the load-bearing walls of the house. Those. - system elements: carrier facade wall must be balanced.

If, relatively speaking, the facade should last 50-60 years, and the connections or thermal insulation have lost their properties after 10-15 years, then this will lead to the need for major and expensive repairs. It is impossible to perform it without dismantling or partial disassembly of the masonry.

There are many nuances, and for each element of the brick facade system, you can write a separate article. Therefore, below will be given answers to the most common facade questions that beginner developers have, using the example of an aerated concrete and timber house.

Is it necessary to make a ventilation gap when facing brick walls

Motorist FORUMHOUSE User

I read more than one topic on our portal, but I still didn’t find an exact answer whether it is necessary to leave an air gap when building a house from aerated concrete, the walls of which I want to brick.

To answer this question, you should present the wall in section and remember the rule mentioned above: interior wall + facade = a single system. From here, we set the basic conditions for solving the problem.

Facade brickwork.

The wall can be two-layer (bearing wall + brick facade) or three-layer (bearing wall + insulation + brick facade).

The inner wall of the cottage is made of aerated concrete D400. This material (like wood) is vapor permeable. Therefore, water vapor from the house, due to partial pressure, moves from the inside to the outside. If water vapor does not encounter obstacles on its way, then it will freely leave the building envelope.

A brick facade has less vapor permeability than aerated concrete / wood. As a result, the rule is violated: the vapor permeability of layers in multilayer structures should increase from the inside out.

Those. there is a possibility that water vapor will “lock” in the wall (especially if the facade brick is placed close to the aerated concrete). This will lead to waterlogging of the building envelope. The situation can be aggravated in winter during the heating period, because. due to the temperature difference inside the heated warm room and on the cold street, the intensity of the movement of water vapor from the inside to the outside will increase.

The air gap and, we note, necessarily ventilated, allows excess water vapor to freely exit the wall.

The wall turns out to be “healthy” and warm (because with excessive moisture accumulation, the thermal conductivity of the material increases, and the wall becomes more “cold”). Excess moisture in the wall can lead to the appearance of mold and fungus on it (interior decoration). aerated concrete will have to dry inside.

Negative Member of FORUMHOUSE, Moscow.

I am a supporter of a ventilated air gap, from 2.5 cm in size, between the bearing wall and the brickwork.

The average thickness of the air gap is usually made in the range of 3 to 4 cm.

Decided, we make an air gap. To make it ventilated, ventilation holes are arranged in the lower part of the masonry. Air enters through them. Further, due to the thrust that has arisen (because the top gap does not overlap, and connects to a ventilated under-roof channel) the air is removed through the ridge of the house.

Condensation is also removed through the vents, which may appear on the inner surface of the facing brick. Accordingly: do not forget to waterproof the brickwork support unit in the lower part, when resting on a foundation or on a monolithic shelf.

The air gap optimizes the operating mode of the system: load-bearing wall - brickwork.

If the wall is three-layer, i.e. its additional insulation is planned, then the water vapor that has passed through the load-bearing wall and the insulation (mineral wool) must be removed without fail, because Wet thermal insulation loses its functions and significantly reduces its service life.

For ease of understanding, when installing a brick facade of a private house, we follow the same recommendations as when installing a hinged ventilated facade: we protect the insulation with a moisture and windproof membrane, which also prevents the removal of particles of insulation, etc.

It can be said that the removal of particles of mineral wool insulation will be minimal, and the insulation will not become waterlogged to critical values, and, accordingly, there is no need to spend money on a membrane. But remember that the miser pays twice.

A brick facade is an expensive pleasure. The cost of purchasing high-quality wind and moisture protection will not lead to a significant increase in the cost of the entire structure, with a general increase in reliability and service life.

Remember the third rule that all elements of the system must be balanced, and replacing the insulation means dismantling the facade.

Also, the question often arises, with what step to make blow-outs in the front masonry.

Skintex FORUMHOUSE User

I am making a three-layer ventilated facade - a load-bearing wall, mineral wool, a gap of about 4-5 cm, front brick. Accordingly, in the bottom row of masonry, I plan to leave the vertical seams empty for ventilation. I think how to do it correctly: through the seam or through two seams to the third, and how many voids are enough?

The following picture gives a clear answer.

Important: there is also an expert opinion that air should not be left in the upper part of the brickwork, because. this will lead to the fact that the air flow will follow the path of least resistance (i.e. through the upper vents), and we need the air flow to go exactly from below, ventilating the entire masonry.

To make the products look neat and aesthetically pleasing, and not like a “self-propelled gun”, from the voids between the bricks that are not filled with mortar, they can be made using special elements - a ventilation-drying box. The color of the box can be matched to the color scheme of the masonry, and the airflow will practically not be noticeable.

Boxes are placed at a distance of 0.75 - 1 m from each other.

How to tie a facing brick to a load-bearing wall

We have already said above that the brick facade perceives significant dynamic wind loads, which must be transferred to the load-bearing wall. The larger the area of the facade and the higher the number of storeys of the house, the greater these loads. Therefore, you can not use "folk" methods as links. Namely - "soft" - basalt or fiberglass mesh, etc. These materials, due to their relatively high flexibility and ductility, will not be able to transfer the load. Those. system: load-bearing wall - masonry will not work.

Moreover, when asked how many connections should be per 1 sq. m, one answer is given - this is a calculated value, which depends on the load and wind strength in a particular construction region. As a guide take 5 pcs. per 1 sq. m masonry.

We proceed to the choice of links, which are subject to the following requirements:

high strength;
long service life, because connections work in harsh conditions, with high humidity, frequent transitions through "0";
high corrosion resistance.

AlexanderNF FORUMHOUSE User

I am building a concrete house. He poured the foundation, erected the walls, purchased the front brick for finishing the facade. I thought about how to connect gas silicate with facing bricks.

Before answering this question, let's talk about what should not be used. We proceed from the requirements for connections listed above. A popular option among builders is that thin galvanized plates (perforated, or drywall hangers designed for interior work) do not last through their service life. Such plates with a thickness of about 0.5 - 1 mm can rust due to condensation forming on the inner surface of the face brick. The zinc layer can be damaged by workers when laying plates, etc.

Such a connection may already be destroyed in, relatively speaking, 10-15 years. While the brick facade should stand at least 50-60 years and above.

Thin plates bend easily. This advantage for builders (it is physically convenient for them to work with such "connections") turns into a disadvantage for the developer.

A "flexible" connection of this type will not be able to fully transfer the dynamic wind load from the facade to the load-bearing wall.

The most rational materials for connections are two options - the use of stainless steel (plates or rods with a diameter of about 6 mm) or the use of flexible basalt-plastic connections.

Bonds are laid not in the gas silicate seam, but in the “body” of the block.

kodokopatel FORUMHOUSE User

I have used links like this. They can be called flexible only conditionally, because. You can't really bend them by hand. But such connections provide some movement, allowing the "bearing wall-masonry" node to play relative to each other.

Unlike metal, plastic is not a "cold bridge" and is not subject to corrosion.

There are other options.

Sadovnik62 FORUMHOUSE User

I used fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm. The reinforcement was attached to the gas block, after drilling the hole, placing it on a chemical anchor. I just couldn't find any other way. Thin galvanizing will rust in the ventilation gap. I also tried to lay plates 2 mm thick into the seam when laying aerated concrete on glue. I abandoned this idea. It would seem that the thickness of the plate is 2 mm, but this gives an error on the entire row with thin-seam masonry, and before laying the next one, you have to level the surface of the blocks.

Usually, when constructing a brick facade, the following rule is followed: walls are erected and only after that they begin to install ties and lay the front brick. But it happens that the masonry of the walls and the facade is carried out almost simultaneously.

The main thing is to control the workers at all stages, because it is impossible to check the quality of various hidden works after masonry is completed. Builders can make their job easier by laying fewer ties, setting the anchor too deep into the masonry, and so on.

The depth of the anchor in the load-bearing wall is about 100 mm.
Add the thickness of the insulation (if any).
Add the width of the ventilation gap.
We lay the anchor in the front brick from the calculation - we do not reach about 2 cm to the front of the masonry. The tie must not run into the outer seam.
We add about 2 cm to the stock, because. the wall may be uneven (deviation of the bearing wall from the vertical), and if the connection is taken end-to-end, its length may not be enough to lay it to the required depth.

How to overlay a wooden house with bricks

Although this decision is common among budget-conscious developers, it is controversial. Too many nuances to consider. A log house (depending on the region of residence) does not meet modern requirements for the heat resistance of enclosing structures. Accordingly, such a house will have to be insulated.

It is impossible to use insulation based on expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) or EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) for thermal insulation of a wooden house. Although such options do exist.

The fact is that these types of heaters do not let water vapor through. He will lock himself in the wall, which will begin to rot. These materials are combustible, and in the event of a fire, the fire will quickly spread in the ventilation air gap, and it will be almost impossible to extinguish the house.

Expanded polystyrene building codes and regulations are prohibited from using when installing hinged ventilated facades.

If you insulate a wooden house, then only with mineral wool insulation. The question of how to overlay a log house with bricks is often found among developers who plan to give the house a solid appearance.

sasha508 FORUMHOUSE User

I built a log house. I want to insulate it and overlay it with bricks. Thinking how to do it.

There was a heated debate on this issue on the portal. Users are divided into two different camps. In the first one, those who believe that it is not worth doing, in the second, they express the opinion that it is possible to try, each case is individual.

Having decided to overlay a wooden house with bricks, we remember that wood is a “living” material subject to seasonal fluctuations in humidity. The log house dries, shrinks and lives its own life throughout the entire period of operation of the house.

If you tie a brick facade to wooden walls rigidly - forming a connection, driving in two long nails "150" at an angle of 45 degrees, then if the tree "gulnet", the brickwork will crack. You also need to correctly calculate the number and cross-section of vents for sufficient ventilation in the gap. If you make a mistake, you will get insufficient ventilation, condensation, wood decay, mold and fungus from inside the premises.

The balanced system rule is violated. It may turn out that a beautiful brick facade will last much longer than a wooden house.

But sasha508 got to work and this is the end result.

The house has changed dramatically.

Now the log house looks like a solid beautiful cottage, completely built of bricks.

The nuances of this construction are interesting.

The house was insulated with EPPS, wrapping the timber walls outside, under the slabs, with a moisture-windproof film. Note that the extruded polystyrene foam is vapor-tight, and the L-joining of the edges ensures that the connection is not blown. Therefore, wrapping the house with a film under the insulation is an extra job.

The ventilation gap is about 50-60 mm. Inside the house is vapor-insulated. This minimized the amount of water vapor that could get into a wooden wall that was sealed from the outside with vapor barrier insulation (EPS). This reduces the likelihood that the timber will begin to rot and rot.

Although on our portal there are many options for facades of mansions made of bricks of different colors and examples of successful lining of a wooden house with face bricks, this option requires a great building culture from workers, and any mistake can lead to a significant reduction in the service life of the supporting structure.

Alexander FORUMHOUSE User

Although the developers say that I overlaid a wooden house with bricks, and nothing has rotted in 10 years, I will say that 10 years is not an indicator. There ishouses that have stood for 50 years, in which you will not see much rot, but the wood simply rots, it becomes very soft, the house shrinks a lot, the walls arch in a “barrel”.

Summarizing

Having thought of facing the house with brick, we remember that this is an expensive undertaking, and such a facade should stand for decades. Unlike siding, it is impossible, in which case, to dismantle the structure, see what is happening inside, pull out the insulation, replace the ties, choose a different color, etc. Therefore, the beautiful facade of a brick house stands on the "three pillars":

Smart calculation.
Using a variety of high-quality building materials with a long service life.
Total control over the progress of all work performed by workers.

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