2 bunk bed made of chipboard with your own hands. Making a wooden bunk bed with your own hands. The inner bars are attached to the longer outer bars, which in turn need to be fixed directly to the assembled bed frame
A bunk bed is needed not only for the younger generation: in a small apartment or a compact country house, it can solve the problem of adult sleeping places. But on sale there are almost exclusively children's bunk beds, and they are not cheap. Meanwhile, a bunk bed may well be made by hand from available materials by a novice craftsman who has the most general idea of carpentry. All you need is a small workshop in the garage, shed or on the balcony - it still won’t work to build a bed on the floor in the living room. In this article, we will see what and how it is possible to craft if the question arose: but where does he (she) sleep?
You can make a bunk bed for two children, as well as for adults and a child, from solid wood or MDF, see fig. In the latter case, the children's bed is located at the top: it is easier to ensure the strength of the bed. True, it is also easier for a curious offspring to spy on mom and dad from there, so an option with an adult rookery at the top is also possible, see below.
If the bed is only for children, then often the upper tier is combined with a playhouse (pos. 1 in the next figure) or the entire bed with a work area (pos. 2). Corner bunk beds of the "closed corner" type (pos. 3) are suitable mainly in studio apartments to highlight the children's area, because. practically no savings in living space. But as for the sofa or sofa bed with the upper sleeping tier (pos. 4), then it’s overkill: making the stairs retractable is inconvenient for the child; the ladder is fixed in place - how do adults sit on the couch? But for now, we'll deal with beds, which are just beds.
Notable examples
The results of the search for options for self-manufacturing of a bunk bed in Runet give, I must say, quite a positive result - with regard to children's beds. The user will find intelligible instructions, with drawings and bills of materials, how to make this very bed. However, looking closely, you can understand that these are not the simplest, cheapest and most reliable options.
Here, for example, in Fig. drawings and diagram of the assembly of the bed, described in detail on the site "Furniture Circle". It is quite suitable for its intended use. But let's take a closer look at the positions highlighted in red:
To assemble the bed (submattress, lounger, pos. 3), you need to make 12 mortise joints. Not to mention the fact that it is not so easy, the frame of the stock from a 50x50 bar with so many tie-ins will not be very strong. If relatives start a pillow fight on the bed, it can break. And it’s difficult to fix, because. the bed is integrally introduced into the power circuit of the bed. Therefore, the assembly of the product (pos. 5) is complicated: the bed is first made without platforms (tires), the bed is assembled on bolts, and only then the platforms are mounted. The nuts of the bolts are tightly closed; loosen up - you can’t pull it up. And they can get loose, because. the bed hangs on bolts, creating significant concentrated loads on the tree. Conclusion: This bed will only let its occupants grow to adulthood if it is made of high-quality (and expensive) solid wood. Structurally and technologically unnecessarily complicated.
The option of a bunk bed for children, which can be made from pine or spruce (see the figure on the right), is also described in sufficient detail even on several sites. The first thing that catches your eye is the high consumption of materials and labor for marking and sawing parts. The strength of a bunk bed made of soft wood can be achieved more easily, see below.
Secondly, the wood for this bed is suitable, although soft, but of high quality, without knots, striations, slant, i.e. also not cheap. The reason is the lamella beds, because of which it was necessary to additionally strengthen the corners, because. lamellas in the main power circuit do not work. Knots and other wood defects, suddenly they will be in the bearing parts, will become centers of concentration (foci) of loads, and the bed will not last long. A mattress laid on slats is, of course, more comfortable, but both doctors and psychologists unequivocally say: it is not good for children to sleep on too soft. Children's bedding should be a little hard. And finally, this bed needs a lot of fasteners visible from the outside.
But don't worry, it's still possible to make a solid bunk bed out of the wood you have on hand. A detailed video in 3 parts, how a person did, did, and still made a good bunk bed from knotty pine, see below:
Video: an example of making a wooden bunk bed
Features of the power circuit
The authors of the constructions mentioned above are by no means hacks or ignoramuses. They quite conscientiously approached the solution of the task before them, knowing about the increased requirements for the strength of a bunk bed. Hitting the floor from a height of 0.5 or 2 m is a completely different thing. Surely they also know that a bunk bed can form a very rigid box. Compared to a massive structure, a box-shaped one holds dynamic loads better, but worse static long-term ones.
But this is exactly what we need for a baby bed! Children, they are light, but wicked. A bed for children should just keep the dynamics better than the statics. This circumstance is often not taken into account by professional furniture designers, unnecessarily strengthening (and more expensive) children's beds. Hobbyist furniture design programs such as PRO100 also calculate children's beds using adult algorithms. We will further understand what can be achieved, given the characteristics of the child, somewhere up to 15-16 years old, as a source of operational loads on the bed.
Note: that’s what you definitely don’t need to do with a bunk bed, so it’s to make it half-hanging with the corners resting on the wall, see fig. on right. The difference between the bearing capacity of building structures, incl. wooden, and the furniture is so large that from the smallest dynamics, either the bed will soon loosen, or the wall will crumble.
Making a bed
The main structural element that provides the required performance of a bunk bed is its bed. If we manage to design a wooden bed bed that can support an adult uncle at 85-90 kg of live weight, being suspended from the ceiling on ropes, then such a bed can be either included in any box-shaped power circuit or carry the load on its own.
Bed
The layout of the bed arrangement for a bunk bed up to 2.1 m (7 ft) long and up to 0.9 m (3 ft) wide is given in the figure:
With sides, it is self-sufficient in relation to both statics and dynamics of both children and adults and can simply be placed in a box-shaped frame, the task of which is only to provide overall rigidity. Without bumpers, the frame with the platform and the bottom is either rigidly fixed in a lightweight box, reinforcing it to the required degree, or fits into a pre-reinforced box. In any case, there is no fastener visible from the outside. The platform and the bottom are attached to the frame with 4x(16...25) self-tapping screws with a pitch of 70...150 mm. At the corners of the frame and the junction of beams with screeds, there must be a hardware; the rest are distributed evenly along the contour. Just in case: a hardware, a hardware product is a threaded fastener.
Note: the bottom of the upper bed of a bunk bed is draped from below with any suitable upholstery fabric before installation on the frame.
Bed Design Examples
The best way to use this bed in a children's bunk bed is to tear off the sides from it and include them in the power circuit of the box. The frame itself is a flat box, it will withstand children's dynamics, and small ones will not load it much with static.
How a children's bunk bed is arranged, in which these principles are implemented, is shown in the figure:
The frame is assembled on dowels and glue from any available wood, even from aspen or poplar. Together with the support frames made of pine cranial bars 60x60 (pos. 7 and 8 in the figure), the necessary overall rigidity is provided. The stock is simply laid on the support frames. This approach gives a trace. Benefits:
- Simple design of rectangular parts;
- Any wood materials will go to the frame, incl. plywood, MDF, chipboard;
- The frame is very strong, withstands tipping without damage;
- Freely removable beds give more opportunities to control the sanitary condition of the bed and keep it clean;
- There is no visible fastener, and a hidden one can be used inexpensively.
Note: if the frame parts are made of MDF or chipboard, plastic dowels should be used, and glue should be wood mounting.
This bed is going, so to speak, in the reverse order: det. 4 and 6 are attached to children. 1 with screws from the inside, and then with the help of det. 2, 2a and 3, a frame is assembled on the dowels. After that, the support frames (det. 7 and 8) and the ladder are installed. The bed is ready, you can put the bed and sleep. If it is not planned to separate this bed into two, then det. 1 make double length (2000 mm). Then a detachable dowel connection (inset on the left in the figure) is not needed, and the frame will become even stronger.
A small drawback of this bed is the need for the person sleeping upstairs to climb over the fence (det. 6 in the figure). It is impossible to make a fence split, it works in a power circuit. But make a half-width recess in the fence above the stairs. 6 is possible.
Note: det. 3 cannot be removed from the lower section, they also work in the power circuit.
For grandchildren
Another option for using a bed-box in a children's bunk bed is to leave the sides in it, and remove the headboard and footboard. The sides will provide the proper resistance of the frame to longitudinal torsion, and it is already resistant to transverse torsion due to its small width.
The sides remaining on the frame will further improve the bed, without significantly complicating it. How exactly - see the general view, dimensions and drawings in the figure:
The frame for greater rigidity is assembled on thorn-groove carpentry joints. An extra screed was added to the frame, which made it possible to halve the thickness of the frame, to 30 mm, and instead of a more expensive beam, use a thirty-thirty board spread along. Moreover, the bed turns out to be even excessively rigid, and it became possible to make the bed collapsible without tools. The bed with the backs are connected with steel locks (pos. 10 in the figure); such are sold in furniture stores specifically for this purpose. When the children grow up, the bed can be hidden in the pantry for the grandchildren or sold on occasion.
Note: the sides are connected to the frame with oak dowels 30x8 with a pitch of 120 ... 150 mm on a mounting glue for wood. All other carpentry joints are also glued.
Or maybe a corner?
As mentioned above, a “closed corner” layout bunk bed practically does not save space in the room. In small-sized housing from corner bunk beds, an “open corner” type bed, combined with a bedside table and a children's utility corner, can be useful. The optimal dimensions of a children's bunk bed "closed corner" with a utility block for small ones, see fig. on right.
And for the big ones too
In the same small apartment or, preferably, in a small country house, a bunk bed with an adult berth upstairs can be comfortable. The simplest option is a bed on a welded frame made of steel pipes.
The general view and dimensions of the steel welded bunk bed are given in the figure:
The frame is designed for a standard stock with armor mesh. In a home-made bed for a summer residence (this, of course, will not fit into a house by design, even in a loft), you can refuse to install platforms in locks, weld support frames from a corner from 40x25, fasten them with backrests with bolts, and make the bed described above.
In a small apartment, a multifunctional sleeping corner with an adult bed upstairs will be more convenient. In this case, an adult bed can be made mainly for static loads, from a single sheet of chipboard. Children's sleeping place (places) for the night are equipped below, from where nothing can be seen upwards.
The drawings and material sheet of a multifunctional bunk sleeping block (you can’t just call it a bed) are given in Fig.:
The upper adult bed is rectangular, so it is necessary for its strength. The area next to it with a beveled corner serves as a bedside table. There, the baby can pile toys if it climbs up during the day to isolate itself. Below, adults can sit, have lunch, work at the table, and children can play. In the same place, below, it is possible to equip 1-2 children's night berths with the help of removable soft sides - any of the lower tables or a shelf between them turn into a sofa by installing a foam block covered with furniture fabric. In general, this multifunctional device will come in handy for a bachelor, a young family, and in a cramped apartment, and in the country.
Is it just a tree?
Beds made of MDF or chipboard look, of course, more elegant than simple wooden ones. Especially - bunk (see photo below), whose high backs are difficult to disguise in the interior. However, MDF and chipboard require special care in work and some special tools (electric jigsaw, wood router) - if you scratch the coating, the scratch will remain.
The second - the ratio of the strength characteristics of MDF and laminated chipboard for compression, bending, torsion and shear is completely different than that of wood. In addition, MDF and laminated chipboard are practically homogeneous: select directions in them along the fibers, along the layer, etc. impossible. Therefore, it is impossible to fasten parts from MDF and chipboard with carpentry joints: a spike or tooth will break from a small load. MDF and chipboard are fastened with furniture screws - confirmations. Dowel connections are used if it is impossible to connect with confirmations, for example, for connections that must be hidden. Dowels in products made of MDF or chipboard should be as small as possible, and always only plastic.
When an addition is expected in your family and this is not the first child, then the question arises of an extra bed, which sometimes simply has nowhere to put. Buying such a bed, especially for young families, is quite expensive, so you may have a question about how to make a bunk bed yourself and save money on it.
In contact with
Classmates
Of course, for this you need to have not only the desire, but also get acquainted with the theory, watch the video course, purchase the required tools and materials, after which you can get to work.Simple bunk bed
Bed materials
First of all, in order to start making a bunk bed, you need to purchase a certain set of materials.
- 8 bars. Width - 100 mm, thickness - 50 mm, length - 3 m. Pieces of 60 cm will need to be cut from four beams. These eight boards will go to the construction of the frame.
- 4 boards 3 m long with different sections. one board should have dimensions in section - 15 by 2 cm, one - 20 by 2 cm and two 10 by 2 cm.
- 2 sheets of plywood or 12mm thick. The dimensions of the canvas should be 240 by 120 cm.
- Hardware. Screws (75), wood screws, 8 hex head screws, 10 hex bolts with nuts 75 mm and 2 bolts 150 mm.
Bunk bed with drawers
Tool
In order for a do-it-yourself children's bunk bed to become a reality, you need to acquire the necessary hand-held power tools:
- Household electric drill and. There is a tool with removable attachments that combines these two devices, so the choice is yours.
- Measuring tool. First of all (water) and roulette.
- Cutting power tool. A power saw would be ideal, but a regular wood saw will also work.
- Wiring detector. It is needed to protect against electric shock, but you can get by with other improvised means, for example, a magnet.
- Additional tool. In addition to the basic tools, you may need polyurethane, wood putty, fine grit, and dowels (if you need fixings in a brick wall).
Beginning bed assembly
Before starting the assembly, you need to make a drawing of a bunk bed. It should look something like this:
Then you need to measure the size of the mattresses on which the children will sleep, and add another two centimeters to them, for more convenient filling of the sheets. Then we take bars with a section of 10 * 5 cm and make two frames, fastening them with screws. They will have dimensions of 300 * 240 cm.
Framework construction
After that, we attach a board with a section of 15 * 2 cm to one of the frames. It is important to ensure that the screws and bolts do not come out. Since the bed is intended for children, the ends that come out can cause injury. We fix another board with a section of 20 * 2 cm to the second frame structure. Then we make the legs of the bed from two bars (10 * 5 cm), and their height will be equal to the upper tier.
DIY children's bunk bed video:
Finishing work before installation
For further operations, an assistant is needed. In the legs we make holes for the screws with hex heads, at the level of two tiers of the bed. In addition, you need to drill holes in frames with sides 15 and 20 cm wide.
To hide the heads, we drill holes, and after finishing the work, we cover them with putty. We screw the screws into the holes. The legs to the frames must be fixed very securely. Then we level the wall if it is uneven and attach a frame with legs to it.
Final installation
We check, using the water level, the evenness of the wall and the structure attached to it, and begin to fix it. By the way, the attic bunk bed, which we will talk about below, is installed in a similar way. In order to properly fix the bunk bed, we mark the locations of the holes for the dowels for the screws with hex heads and drill them.
Note!
If the walls are made of, then the hole must pass through the frame, drywall sheet and necessarily through the metal profile, for more reliable fastening.
After securely fixing our bed, you need to install a fence made of boards with a section of 2 * 10 cm.
Children's bunk bed
Staircase to bunk bed
So that the child can safely climb to the second tier, you need to make a ladder. It should be installed according to your tastes and the size of the room. You can make it look like a staircase in a train compartment, then it will not take up any space. In this case, it can even be used as a Swedish wall.
And you can make a more complex structure, the so-called diagonal staircase. It looks prettier, but can also take up a significant amount of space. We complete our work by laying sheets of plywood or chipboard in the place where the mattresses will lie.
Note!
When determining the height of a bunk bed, keep in mind that the child will sometimes want to jump on it, so it should not be installed too close to the ceiling.
What is a loft bed
If you have one child or two children who definitely want to sleep on the upper shelves, then there is a way out of this situation - a children's attic bed with their own hands. It differs from the usual bunk bed in the absence of a lower tier and, accordingly, is characterized by a significant release of space that can be used at your discretion. It is made in the same way as a standard bunk bed, but with less material and effort.
Upper bunk height
Usually the upper tier is placed at a height of 80-180 cm. It all depends on your wishes. If the upper tier is located at the maximum height, then you have more opportunities to use the lower free space. Otherwise, your options are somewhat narrowed, but there are fewer signs for parents to worry that the child will fall from a great height.
In general, if a loft bunk bed excites your imagination, and you definitely decided to install it, then the main thing to do is to determine the distance between the upper tier and the ceiling. Firstly, you need to understand that the child is growing and he needs, if not to stand, then at least to sit normally in bed. Secondly, it is not quite comfortable to sleep when you have a ceiling in front of you. Thirdly, the flow of warm air rises, so with a small distance to the ceiling, especially at high ambient temperatures, the child will simply miss it.
Bunk bed for children
Bed with wardrobe
As we have already understood from the above, the space under the upper tier can be used for the benefit of the child. For example, install a wardrobe there. Such beds even got their name - a loft bed with a wardrobe. They look like a monolithic structure, in which the wardrobe is located at the bottom, and the bed stands directly on it and is additionally fixed to the wall. This design seems to be the most reliable. Agree that in this case, the space is used very efficiently. In addition to the closet, you can build a study table with bedside tables, a computer table or even equip a sports corner in the design.
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The question of how to make a do-it-yourself bunk bed often appears on the “agenda” due to the fact that standard apartments do not differ in impressive areas and spaciousness. Even if the children in the family have a completely separate room, you should not clutter it up with unnecessary furniture - it is better to leave more free space for playing and sports.
Therefore, for a family in which two or more children are growing up, a bunk bed design becomes a real find. And it’s not at all necessary to rummage through online catalogs or run around furniture stores - this one can be made on your own.
Some types and models of bunk beds
Nowadays, in the assortment of stores you can find many models of beds with two tiers, and on their basis it is quite possible to create your own version of a bed with sizes suitable for specific conditions and specifics of the location and a comfortable staircase. In addition to traditional bunk designs, you can also make a loft bed, which will free up useful space in the room.
If you consider several different options, it will be easier to choose the most suitable design for your apartment.
traditional model
Such a bunk bed is traditional and has the simplest design of all that can be. It is quite affordable for self-production and requires a minimum amount of materials.
Such a model is perfect for a children's room and will significantly save useful space in it, which can be used to equip a workplace or a play area. In addition, the design can serve as a good platform for intricate children's games, so it must be sufficiently stable, and in some cases it is recommended to fix it rigidly to the wall.
The big advantage of this model is the natural wood from which it is made, which is very important for a child's room. Drawings and a detailed description of the manufacture of this bed model will be discussed below.
Bed option with sofa
A bed that has a folding sofa on its first tier will save even more free space in the room than a conventional bunk design. If an ordinary bed is arranged on the ground floor, it will be uncomfortable to just sit and watch TV on it, since there is no comfortable backrest. Therefore, in addition to the traditional version of the bunk bed presented above, in the children's room you will still have to look for a place for a sofa or two chairs, which, of course, will take up a fairly large area. Well, if the sofa is built into a two-tier complex, it will serve as a sleeping place at night, and during the day it will create a comfortable corner for sitting or lying down. In addition, when folded, this piece of furniture will not take up a single extra centimeter of space, and when unfolded, it will become a spacious full-fledged bed.
Bed-transformer
To make such a complex on your own, you will have to buy or use an existing one and attach the rest of the structure to it, which, by the way, will be stable and reliable due to the massiveness of the lower tier.
Bed model with drawers
This version of the bunk bed, designed for three beds and additionally equipped with drawers and shelves, will take up a little more space than a regular traditional bed with two tiers. However, after all, in a children's room you still cannot do without various cabinets and drawers for toys and educational supplies, for which an attached structure can be used, which at the same time acts as a reliable, stable, leading to the second tier.
And in this version - even three beds and a lot of useful built-in lockers The sleeping places themselves will occupy an area that would accommodate one regular bed. As you can see in the illustration, the third bed is a retractable structure that hides under the mattress of the first tier during the daytime.
Thus, three children will be provided not only with sleeping places, but also with their own drawers and shelves, and besides this, with an excellent play complex, which such a two-tiered structure can turn into.
Model with a double bed on the first tier
The bed, which has a double bed in the first tier, can be used in a one-room apartment, or in a two-room apartment, where it was decided to allocate one of the living quarters for a living room with a workplace. So, the first floor of the bed is reserved for an adult bedroom, and the second is intended for a child.
This version of the trapezoidal design will take up the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, which is usually reserved for a laid out sofa. For its manufacture, few materials are required, but due to the widely spaced legs and the large massiveness of the lower tier, the bed will be stable and durable.
Bed for a large family
The bunk design, consisting of four beds, is an excellent choice for a family with four or more children. It is more difficult to make this option, and it will require a lot of material, but the room will become spacious, and the bed will look neat along one of the walls.
The design can be modified and increased even to six beds if it is installed in the length of the room and another bunk section is added, or two retractable mattresses are equipped under the lower tier.
Loft bed
The loft bed is also used for the purpose of rational use of the usable area in the room and a kind of "disguise" of the bed. This option is suitable not only for small children - it is often chosen for adults, especially if the apartment consists of one room.
This design allows you to use one zone of the room in a dual purpose - on the second tier there is a wide and comfortable bed, and the lower platform of the first tier is a fairly spacious office, which provides everything for comfortable work.
An important condition for the arrangement of such a design is its strength, especially if the bed is intended for two people. Usually such a loft bed is additionally securely fixed to the wall.
Children's loft bed
The children's version of the loft bed is a whole complex that includes a table and a closet in which not only toys, but also clothes can be stored. With some reason, such a complex can even be called a small room that will become a favorite place for a child, since most children always try to create their own “secret” corner, building huts and houses out of chairs and blankets.
By making this version of the bed with all the elements necessary for playing and studying, you can solve several problems at once and save on buying furniture for a child for many years, since the complex is suitable for both a five-year-old baby and a fifteen-year-old teenager. Moreover, starting drawing up a drawing, it is quite possible to include existing cabinets and tables in it, which are perfect for the first tier of the structure.
Upon completion of the work, all elements of the loft bed are combined with a common color that will be in harmony with the design of the entire children's room.
Production of beds with two tiers
Further in the publication, the manufacture and assembly of two different models of bunk beds will be considered - the “classic” type and the loft bed. However, many structural elements and their assembly principles are exactly the same, and in order not to repeat themselves, these nuances will first be shown separately, using the example of an ordinary wooden bed. If these principles are learned, then the creation of the second tier will no longer be difficult, of course, taking into account certain features.
The principles of high-quality assembly of a wooden bed
In order for the product to turn out neat, it is necessary to accurately manufacture and process all the details. The instruction table below contains illustrations in which the master uses professional tools - they greatly speed up and simplify the work. However, the same operations can be carried out with an ordinary tool, which is in almost any good, "handy" owner. Of course, you will have to make a little more effort, and production will take more time, but still it is possible.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | So, all boards must be planed, their surfaces perfectly aligned and adjusted to the desired size. This illustration shows the manufacture of the side panel - the side panel of the supporting structure of the bed. |
 | In order for the transverse boards on which the mattress will be laid to have reliable and strong supports, well-finished bars are fixed to the sides. |
 | On the side panel, along the line of gluing the timber, carpentry glue is applied. Then the glued element is laid on it. The beam is well pressed and pulled together with clamps in several places. After the glue dries, the parts are fastened with self-tapping screws through the holes drilled “under-sweat”. |
 | A very important point is the manufacture of the side racks-legs, since a high load falls on them. In the future, the side and end panels of the bed will be fixed to these elements. Therefore, they are usually assembled from two layers, one of which is the main one, and consists of a whole bar. The second layer is assembled from separate elements located at a certain distance from each other. |
 | This distance depends on the width of the drawer, the edge of which will be installed in the resulting groove. Separate pieces of timber are first glued according to the markings on a solid part, and then “under-sweep” holes are drilled in them for self-tapping screws. |
 | Another point that causes difficulties is the creation of curved forms on some details, for example, in the manufacture of semicircular headboard and footboard backs. In order to avoid mistakes, and not to draw extra draft lines on the wooden part itself, it is recommended to make a paper template from which the form is transferred to the board with neat dashed contours. |
 | Then, a flexible plastic bar is taken, which can be bent along the bend of the cut, and a fine curvilinear cut boundary is already drawn along it. |
 | Next, the board is cut along the marked line using an electric jigsaw. This photo shows a professional stationary machine, but it is quite possible to use a hand tool. |
 | After that, the cut line is processed with a manual or stationary milling cutter, which will round the edges and save them from protruding wood fibers. In the same way, all the boards necessary to create elements for the head and foot are cut and processed. |
 | When all the parts necessary for assembling the bed are made, they should be tried on and the necessary markup should be made. |
 | Further, connecting dowels are made or purchased ready-made. They can be round or flat as shown in this illustration. |
 | Finished dowels are laid out on the parts to be connected. At the same time, it will be possible to visually estimate how many of them will be required. |
 | In places where holes for installing dowels will be drilled, marks are made with a simple pencil. It is easier to drill holes for round dowels by choosing a drill of the right size. If flat dowels are used for connections, then several holes are drilled side by side with a drill, which are then combined with a chisel or cutter. |
 | The dowels are inserted into the holes, while without glue, since the structure must first be pre-assembled to make sure that there are no distortions. |
 | After that, bed racks are put on the free ends of the dowels. For complete subsidence of parts during assembly, a rubber or wooden hammer (mallet) can be used. |
 | Having made the connections of the parts of one of the sides of the back, proceed to the installation of the second rack. |
 | Having assembled the individual elements of the bed, it is necessary to pre-assemble the entire “ground floor” structure to make sure that all the parts fit exactly together. |
 | Base boards are laid on the bed frame - this process is carried out to determine the optimal distance between them. |
 | When the size of the gaps between the boards is determined, fragments of the bar are cut along it and glued between the boards to the support beam on which the base boards are laid. These elements will allow the boards to be in a given position without shifts, so they are simply laid without fixing the edges with self-tapping screws. |
 | After carrying out all the preliminary operations and making possible necessary adjustments, the entire structure is disassembled and reassembled, but already “tightly”, that is, with the use of glue. |
 | The illustration clearly shows how the bedposts are connected to the headboard panels using dowels lubricated with glue. |
 | The glued bed frame must be pulled into clamps until it dries completely, and then it is additionally fastened with self-tapping screws through the holes drilled “under the hood”. |
 | The illustration clearly shows the segments of the timber, fixed to the longitudinal support shelf of the tsarga - between them the base boards under the mattress will be subsequently laid. |
 | The final connection of the side and backs of the headboard and footboard is made with self-tapping screws. |
 | This illustration shows which cut must be made on the bottom of the baseboard leg so that the bed can be installed close to the wall. |
So, having made all the details that are necessary according to a specific drawing of the selected model, you can proceed to the independent creation of this original piece of furniture, using the shown principles for assembling the main parts and assemblies of wood.
Bunk wooden bed "classic" type
This version of the bunk bed can be called the simplest of all existing ones, which is why it is worth considering.
Transforming bed Mobi
In this figure, the numbers show the main details of the design.
Detail of a bunk bed "classic" type This table shows the dimensions and number of parts, and even for a novice master this data should be quite enough to make them based on the above instructions, and then assemble a bunk bed from them.
| № | the name of detail | Part size, mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. | Vertical racks. | 38×76×1730 | 4 |
| 2. | Outer pads for uprights. | 38×76×1730 | 4 |
| 3. | 38×140×2030 | 4 | |
| 4. | Longitudinal strips for laying frame boards, fixed to the drawers from the inside (not visible in the figure). | 32×44×1850 | 4 |
| 5. | Headboard/footboard top panels | 20×140×914 | 4 |
| 6. | Headboard/footboard center slats | 20×90×914 | 4 |
| 7. | stair railing | 20×90×1510 | 1 |
| 8. | stairs | 20×64×482 | 3 |
| 9. | Guard rails - cut to size when installing | 20×90×1800 | 2 |
| 10. | Mattress support transverse rails (not visible in the figure), cut in place. | 20×76×1000 | 24 |
| 11. | 20×140×914 | 4 |
Below is an illustrated instruction table, which shows the relative position and connection of all parts of a bunk bed. Based on the diagrams and textual support for them, it will not be difficult to carry out an independent installation.
(Some illustrations show dimensions in inches. Converting to millimeters is easy: 1 inch = 25.4 mm.)
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | This is the side load-bearing part of the bed - the tsarga, designed to hold the transverse lamella boards. Such panels are made 4 pieces, they form the length of the upper and lower boxes of the couch. |
 | This figure shows the principle of assembling the headboard and footboard, which consist of uprights and crossbeams. In turn, the racks are made up of a solid bar and separate segments that close the holes for connecting parts and form a groove for mounting the drawer side into it. |
 | Assembly diagram of the headboard and footboard with detailed details and dimensions. Here you need to pay attention to the fact that in the upper part of the back of the headboard, three separate overlays are fixed to the solid bar of the rack, since the parts of the fence will be fixed between them. For the back of the footboard, instead of three overlays, one whole one is fixed in its upper part. |
 | Assembled headboard and footboard parts. Based on the dimensions given in the figure, it will be easy to mark up and assemble these bed elements. |
 | This drawing shows the details of the stairs and railing of the upper bunk. The location of the three steps is indicated on the ladder rack. When attaching the bottom step to the footboard post, make sure that the fixing screws of the step do not rest against the frame fastening screws. |
 | Now, for the comfort of further work, you need to fasten the headboard and footboard with the lower and upper sides. To do this, they are installed in the gaps left between the linings, and each of their sides is fixed with four self-tapping screws. |
 | When the structure is firmly on the floor, you can proceed with the installation of the handrail of the stairs, its steps, as well as the railings. The elements are fastened to each other, as well as to the headboard and footboard posts, self-tapping screws. After all the elements are assembled into a single structure, it is possible to lay the transverse boards between the pieces of bars fixed on the sides. |
 | The last step will be to finish the joints so that they do not leave a burr. Then it remains only to clean the structure from dust, install it in the right place, put mattresses on the sleeping places - and the bed is ready for use. |
I would like to add that it would be nice to fix the assembled structure to the wall, since children usually use it not only as a sleeping place, but also as a sports complex. In order to avoid unpleasant moments, it is better to take care in advance that the design is stable and safe.
Loft bed
Another bed option that will help save space in a small apartment, even with only one room. As already mentioned, the space occupied by such a bed can be usefully used for various needs.
Loft bed
To make this loft bed model, you will need the following materials:
- Board 50 × 100 × 2500 mm -14 pcs.
- Board 120×25×1000 mm - 13 pcs.
- Board 50 × 150 × 2500 mm - 4 pcs.
- Board25 × 50 × 2500 mm -1 pc.
- Beam 50 × 50 × 2500 mm -2 pcs.
- Bolts 60 mm.
- Self-tapping screws 50÷60 mm.
- Joiner's glue.
From the purchased lumber, it is necessary to manufacture and process the following parts:
| the name of detail | Part size, mm | Quantity, pcs. |
|---|---|---|
| Vertical racks. | 50×100×1650 | 4 |
| End boards of the supporting frame | 50×150×950 | 2 |
| Cross boards at the ends of the bed | 50×100×950 | 4 |
| fencing boards | 50×100×1900 | 4 |
| Bearing side boards of the frame (tsargi). | 50×150×1900 | 2 |
| Longitudinal bars, fixed to the sides from the inside, for laying lamellas (not visible in the figure). | 50×50×1900 | 2 |
| Bearing bars for steps, the edges of which are cut parallel at an angle of 45 degrees. The edges of the boards are recommended to be rounded. | 25×50×200 | 6 |
| Step boards | 50×100×450 | 6 |
| Part of a vertical post located near the stairs. | 50×100×1050 | 1 |
| Side boards of stairs (both ends sawn at an angle of 45 degrees, top edge on one side, bottom edge on both sides of the board), see below. | 50×150×1000 | 2 |
| Boards for sheathing the platform of the podium of the stairs | 50×100×550 | 12 |
| End boards of the platform | 50×100×500 | 2 |
| Boards for assembling a retaining structure under the platform (vertical) | 50×100×950 | 2 |
| Boards for assembling a retaining structure under the platform (horizontal) | 50×100×800 | 2 |
| Cross-lamellar boards to support the mattress (not visible in the picture). | 120×25×1000 | 13 |
The diagram below gives a complete picture of how the finished bed will look like. In addition, it is possible to determine your own dimensions of the structure, since the bed can be larger or smaller than the version shown in the drawing, depending on the height and age of the child, as well as the size of the room.
Such a design may well be modified into a more compact version; a side platform is not installed, but instead a ladder is mounted, which will take up much less space.
The instruction table below will show the order of work and the dimensions that must be observed during assembly.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | Based on the presented drawing from the prepared boards, the left end part of the structure is assembled. The connection of the crossbeams with the uprights also occurs with the help of dowels, which are planted in the drilled holes on the carpentry glue, and then additionally fixed with self-tapping screws - their caps must be deepened into the wood by 2 ÷ 3 mm. A platform with a ladder will be fixed to this side. |
 | Further, the right end side of the structure is assembled in the same way. It differs significantly from the previous one, as it performs the function of one of the sides of the fence. |
 | The next step on the supporting boards of the frame (tsargs) are glued, and then the bars with delimiting sections of the board 30 mm long are screwed with self-tapping screws, between which the transverse lamellas under the mattress will be laid. Next, the end parts of the structure are connected with drawers and fencing boards. All parts are assembled using bolts or dowels and self-tapping screws. If dowels are used, then they must be put on glue. As a result, the inner platform of the bed should be 1000 × 1900 mm in size. After that, lamella boards are laid on the protruding beam - the basis of the bed. |
 | The next step is to assemble the support frame-rack for the podium platform. It must be strong, as a sufficiently large load will fall on it. |
 | The next operation - the platform frame is mounted to the frame, and the whole structure is attached to the bed. To fasten all the elements of the podium, it is recommended to use metal corners that are screwed from the inside of the frame. Here you need to take into account that the design must be strong enough to withstand the weight of an adult. |
 | Further, the platform of the podium is sheathed with prepared boards. It is best to put them on glue, and then fasten them with self-tapping screws, drowning their hats in the wood by 3 ÷ 4 mm, and seal the remaining recesses with a mixture of sawdust and glue. All edges of the boards must be carefully processed to smoothness, so that there is no possibility of earning one or another injury. |
 | The next step is the manufacture of stairs, and it can be called the most difficult of the entire process of building a bed. The boards need not only to be perfectly processed, but also to cut their edges at an angle of 45 degrees, but at the same time the top one is cut off on one side, and the bottom one on both sides. To make it easier to mark the places for fixing the bars under the steps, one board can be attached to the podium in a position in which the ladder will be attached to it. The steps should be parallel to the floor - this can be outlined using the usual building level. Having marked one of the boards, in the same way, with complete symmetry, mark the second one. The cue points will set the direction for drawing lines along which uncut bars are screwed to the boards. Their edges can be trimmed after fixing - exactly at the level of the end of the board. |
 | Further, board-steps are laid and fixed on the fixed bars. To make it easier to work, they first fix one board at the top and bottom - this will give the structure the necessary rigidity. After that, it will be easy to screw the remaining steps. All fasteners must be sunk into the wood, and the holes sealed with glue and sawdust. The finished staircase must be securely fastened to the podium, and then the structure can be carefully tested. After that, all holes, sealed with putty from glue and sawdust, are polished with sandpaper. In the next step, the entire assembled structure, if desired, is painted or coated with a water-based varnish. To make it easy to apply varnish or paint on surfaces, without strong absorption into wood, it is advisable to first cover all the details with a primer on wood, which will create a film by filling the pores of the material. |
This publication presented the simplest designs of bunk beds, available for manufacturing even for a beginner. If all the necessary tools for woodworking are not at hand, or there is not enough confidence that the process of precise processing of workpieces will be flawless, you can entrust this work to professionals by contacting a carpentry workshop, providing the purchased material and dimensional drawings. The master will make all the details, and all that remains is to independently assemble the structure at the place of its installation.
And at the end of the publication - another simple version of the children's bunk bed is shown in the attached video:
Video: how to make a children's bunk bed
Making furniture at home is very popular nowadays. Everywhere, craftsmen make sofas, chairs and other pieces of furniture, including various kinds of beds. Making a bunk bed with your own hands is not a difficult task. To do this, you need to have initial skills and know what you want to get after all the work is completed.
The meaning of a bunk bed
Nowadays, the installation of bunk beds in children's rooms has become quite a fashionable and popular trend. And not only because the current bed saves space (this is also an important factor). Such an original design is of great importance, as it makes the children's room more comfortable and original. A bunk bed can be not only double, but also single. On the first tier there may be a desktop, for example, for a computer.
Photos of do-it-yourself bunk beds are very popular with children. Yes, and you can often notice that children on such a bed sleep with great pleasure, if they have ordinary beds in the kindergarten. Also, children become more friendly, because they have to agree among themselves who will sleep on the upper tier.
If you are going to buy a high-quality wooden bunk bed, then know that it will cost you quite a lot, and inexpensive beds raise great doubts about their quality. A bunk bed, the manufacture of which we will discuss later, must be very durable, and able to withstand both an adult and a child. Another important factor of such a bed is its stability.
By the way, some craftsmen in large families even make three-tier beds, but still, experts consider this to be too much, because they are afraid to hear the characteristic knock from the fall of their child. Next, we will look at how to properly make a double bed with your own hands.
Sizing
Before making a bed design for a given room, it is important to consider the following. First you need to decide where the bed will stand. Next, you should decide where the vertical staircase to the second tier will be located. Based on this information, you can understand what sizes you need to make sleeping places.
It is also worth considering that the dimensions of the bed that you will make, respectively, should exceed the size of the bed in length by 80, and in width - by 100 millimeters. From the side where the vertical ladder will be located, it is also necessary to add 45 millimeters to the dimensions.
After that, it is recommended to weigh everything and think about what the height of the future bed will be. Be sure to know the height of the ceiling for a bunk bed. In the room, the higher you are, the more stuffy it becomes, and the children on the second tier are very fond of jumping. From this it becomes clear that the second tier should not be very high.
Remember that the distance between the sleeping place of the first tier and the wooden frame of the second tier, according to the drawings of the do-it-yourself bunk bed, should not be too small. In other words, when an adult sits down with a child on the lower tier, his head should not reach the frame of the upper tier.
The height of the lower tier of the bed should be such that it is comfortable to sit on it, you also need to know that you can put something under the lower tier. In the bed that you will be producing, the height of the tiers should be made for a ceiling height of 2500 millimeters and also for a mattress thickness of 200 millimeters. The size of the mattress, that is, the bed, will be about 1800 by 800 millimeters.
Material and tools for the bed
The bed is usually made of pine boards. To make it easier to find materials for the further manufacture of the bed, you need to look for a board 18 by 140, 30 by 30, 40 by 80 and 40 by 140 millimeters. It’s better not to get attached to a certain length, but simply write down what parts are needed and how many need to be made from each type of board.
On top of that, “skilled hands” are needed. Maybe some people can do it, but most people can't. But if you replace wood with laminated chipboard, then you can almost completely get rid of labor-intensive operations, replacing them with edging (edging and gluing on chipboard saw cuts).
Making a bunk bed with your own hands is easy, fast and not laborious. Furniture made in this way is not inferior in strength and appearance to products made of wood.
You will also need a base that is placed under the mattress (2 sheets of plywood measuring 900 by 1850 by 9 millimeters), accessories (3 pipes made of steel with PVC coating), fasteners - screws measuring 3.5 by 40 millimeters, decorative washers - plugs and glue.
Before making the bed, the boards you will be using should be kept indoors for a week so that the temperature and humidity are about the same as in the room where the bed will be installed. All this is done so that the boards and bars do not warp.
The wooden board will be the basis. In this case, the choice is considered correct, but it's all about artisanal production. Any piece of furniture needs high quality finishing such as leveling, sanding and painting large surfaces. And this means that you need a special workshop and good equipment.
To make a wooden bunk bed with your own hands, you will need the following tools: a screwdriver or a so-called cordless drill, a saw or a regular hacksaw, a tape measure, a level, a milling machine, with which it is very convenient to smooth the sharp edges of wood, a metal and wire detector (you can also use an ordinary magnet ).
Approximate calculation of materials
To make a sunbed (lattice) on which the mattress will lie, you need a board measuring 18 by 140 millimeters. It is customary to place nine boards on each tier. This is probably enough for as many children to jump on the mattress as they fit there. In our case, the width of the bed is 800 millimeters, now it is necessary to take away a little from it, so that later you do not clog the sunbeds with a sledgehammer and increase this number of boards by two.
The bar on which the sun loungers will be placed has dimensions of 30 by 30 millimeters. You need a board 40 by 80 millimeters for the manufacture of ladders and sides. There are also options here, because the number of parts of a given length directly depends on the place where the ladder will be located, and also the presence of a removable side on the lower tier. In our case, it is worth considering this option when the ladder is located on the side of the facade (along the length) on the right.
A massive board measuring 40 by 140 millimeters is also required to tighten around the entire perimeter of the structure. The details that you will make from this board will be called tsars in the future. One of the purposes that they perform is the role of a "soap dish" for the mattress.
Here, approximate values \u200b\u200bin meters were given so that you can roughly estimate the cost of the lumber required to produce a do-it-yourself retractable bunk bed. Remember that a bunk bed made of chipboard is 2-3 times heavier than board furniture. But with handicraft non-serial production, a bed and chipboard are cheaper every 5-10 times.
Making a bunk bed
1. The mattresses you plan to use need to be measured. To these dimensions, you must add approximately 2 centimeters on each side, so that it is convenient to fill the bed linen - this is how you will find the dimensions of the frame. When you purchase sheet material at the sawmill, ask that it be cut according to your calculated dimensions on the machine. You also need to remember that you should not throw away the trimmings, they will still be useful to you.
2. Bars measuring 50-100 millimeters must be connected with screws, resulting in two frames for a bunk bed made of wood.
3. It is necessary to screw the board 150 by 20 millimeters to one side and the end of the frame. Fastening, of course, should be quite reliable. When you screw in the screws from the inside, make sure that they do not go through the side board. If suddenly you have too short self-tapping screws, then you should drill holes in the beams of the frame of a larger diameter, using in this case the depth gauge on the drill. Also, in places of the depth limiter, you can make marks on the drill itself with electrical tape. On the second frame using the same technology, you need to install a side 200 by 20 millimeters.
4. In the mass production of do-it-yourself children's bunk beds, the legs are usually made from boards measuring 25 by 100 millimeters. Our model is designed for fairly heavy loads, so the legs are usually made of two bars, 50-100 millimeters in size. It is necessary to connect two beams along the length so that the end is L-shaped. Further, the resulting holes from the fasteners can be sealed with putty and sanded. Accordingly, the length of the leg should be equal to the height of the fence, which is located on the second tier.
5. You also need to know that you won’t be able to do it without an assistant during installation. It is necessary to drill a hole in the leg at the height at which the second tier will be attached, and in the frame with a side a hole about 200 millimeters high. Next, a recess should be drilled in the leg so that the washer and screw head are not visible, it is enough to make a deep hole so that the screw passes through the leg. Next, it is recommended to screw in the screw.
6. Next, determine the place where the rack profiles will be located (unless, of course, the walls are made of drywall), and mark their place for drilling. Remember that the assistant should help support the frame from below, pressing well against the walls. Align the frame using a level correctly. It is necessary to drill pilot holes through which the frame beam, rack profile and drywall will pass, so that later hex screws can be screwed in. For such purposes, you will need a fairly long thin drill. It is necessary to screw in the screws so that they are fixed in the rack profiles. The lower tier is installed in a similar way.
7. The guardrail is a safety feature of the DIY metal bunk bed for kids. It can be made from several boards measuring 20 by 100 millimeters, which are mounted on vertical posts made of timber measuring 50 by 100 millimeters. Self-tapping screws must be screwed in from the inside. You should leave an opening for the stairs in the fence.
8. Basically, there are two types of stairs - vertical and inclined. First, install two beams that will be guides. Attach the steps using 6mm bolts. The longest bolts are used to secure the top step and at the same time to attach the ladder to the bed.
9. Next, install plywood sheets on the frames and then lay the mattresses. As a result, you will get a fairly durable do-it-yourself folding bunk bed for children, which will last for quite some time. Due to the fact that the bed is assembled with screws and bolts, it can be disassembled and reassembled in a new place very quickly.
10. So that the bed does not give glare and thus preserves the natural color and pattern, it is recommended to cover it in two layers with matte nitro varnish. And also do not forget that the appearance of this product is improving.
11. After the varnish is completely dry, nail the ceiling made of 4 mm thick plywood and covered with a rather beautiful fabric from the bottom of the upper shelf with furniture nails. Use draped panels to cover the opening between the edging boards and the railing, as well as the openings in the headboards.
12. Next came the turn of watching a video about a do-it-yourself bunk bed and installing it. For greater safety and stability of the bed, it is worth attaching the upper ends of 3 racks to the walls of the room, for this it is customary to use steel brackets.
All children love bunk beds so much, so you should also take an interest in the method of making this piece of furniture. Pre-select the necessary material - wood or chipboard and calculate its quantity. Then it is worth boldly proceeding to the practical part of the work. Follow carefully the step-by-step instructions presented by us, and you will get the most practical bunk bed!
When choosing a mattress, do not forget to buy children's mattress covers. Children will be delighted with a beautiful and soft bed.
A bunk bed differs little from a regular one: a frame, but of great height, and two bottoms instead of one. Making it yourself is almost as easy as putting it together. The only difference is the need to independently determine the dimensions of the structure and purchase materials.
How to make a bunk bed for children with your own hands? Judging by the range of products in the store, then wood-fiber material - MDF, fiberboard, OSB is also quite suitable for a children's bed. But, firstly, it is not necessary to use any fiberboard, but only the one in whose passport a low emission class is indicated. And secondly, making a bed from wooden boards is no more difficult, and this material is much safer and more reliable.
Bunk bed made of solid pine (photo)
The most affordable option is an array of pine. The wood is cheap, so picking up the right amount of the first grade is not difficult. Much more expensive oak or beech. It is harder, it is harder to work with it, but an oak product also lasts for decades.
In any case, the wood must be well dried - no more than 18% moisture, and treated with antiseptic agents. It is recommended to purchase planed boards.
For a bunk bed you will need:
- wooden beam for racks - 10 * 5 mm;
- timber for stairs - 4 * 6 cm;
- board for spacers and sides - 10 * 2 cm, 15 * 2 cm, 20 * 2 cm;
- plywood for the bottom or a set of rails with batten holders - the latter option is preferable.
Fasteners - screws, self-tapping screws, screws, metal corners, glue.
To clean the edges and edges, you need sandpaper, and to seal - a plastic edge or thermal tape.
Of the tools you will need the following:
- screwdriver or drill with an appropriate nozzle;
- jigsaw,
- hammer, screwdrivers, pliers;
- square, tape measure and building level.
Schemes and drawings
Making any design of a bunk children's bed with your own hands begins with a drawing. Moreover, this drawing must be done independently. Ready-made diagrams and drawings of do-it-yourself bunk beds are not always suitable, and here's why.
- The determining parameter for the size of a do-it-yourself bunk bed is not so much the width and length as the height. If it is assumed that children will sleep on it for several years, then the sizes are selected with a large margin. Most often, these are standard ones - 90 * 190 cm. Alternatively, you can measure the mattress to be used and determine the parameters of the sunbed by its width and length. In this case, the length of the bed should exceed the length of the mattress by 8 cm, and the width by 10 cm.
- The height is determined by the height of the ceiling in the room. The child on the second tier should not only sit freely, but also move. In addition, the ceiling hanging directly above the face is very unpleasant. At a minimum, a seated child should not reach the ceiling with his raised hand.
- Between the first and second tiers, the distance is selected based on the same principles. The easiest way to do this is for an adult: sitting on the second tier, dad does not touch the bottom of the top bed with his head.
- The distance between the bottom of the lower bed and the floor is at least 30 cm.
- When calculating the ratio, you need to take into account the thickness of both mattresses.
Drawing is required. Moreover, schemes of two sun loungers, the facade of the structure and the end face are required. It is necessary to draw a diagram, given the scale, and in as much detail as possible. According to such a drawing, it is much easier to calculate the required amount of materials.
If you use a ready-made do-it-yourself bunk bed scheme found on the pages of the site, you need to make sure that the dimensions indicated on it are suitable for the nursery. They can only be changed proportionally: you cannot simply increase the height of the bunk bed by 30 cm and place the lower sunbed higher. Any change affects the stability of the structure. This requires compensation both by adjusting other parameters and the overall strengthening of the frame.
Do-it-yourself drawing of a bunk bed
Manufacturing and assembly process
We make a bunk bed with our own hands. Before assembling the product, the timber and boards must be kept indoors for several days so that the tree acclimatizes. In this simple way warping and drying of the material is prevented.
You can cut the boards yourself, or you can order a cut to size at the place of purchase.
- The first step is to make frames for the beds. To do this, a bar with a section of 5 * 10 mm is fastened in the form of a rectangle according to the size of the lounger. The best fastening is by the tongue-and-groove method with wood glue, but this option is only possible if there is a milling tool. If this is not possible, the connection is made on metal corners.
- A spacer is installed in the frame from the same beam or board 10 * 2 cm, after cutting it in width. Depending on the expected load, the spacers can be from 1 to 4.
- The sides are screwed to the frame: from a board with a section of 15 * 2 cm for the lower bed and 20 * 2 cm for the upper one. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the inside and make sure that they do not go through the side.
- Make 4 racks for the frame. To do this, 2 bars with a section of 5 * 10 mm and a length equal to the height of the bed, together with the fence of the second tier, are fastened two by two so that they form an L-shaped profile. At the same time, the self-tapping screw is sunk into the tree, and the recesses are puttied and sanded with sandpaper.
- At the height of the first and second levels, holes are made in the finished supports for the mounting screw. The same holes are made in the frames of sunbeds.
- It is recommended to fix the structure to the wall. To do this, the upper level is fixed to the vertical risers with screws. Then the product is applied to the wall to mark the fixation points. At this stage, you can not do without an assistant, since the mount must be rigid. Holes are drilled in the wall at the level of the second tier, then the corresponding holes are made in the bed itself so that it passes through the beam of the frame and racks. The structure is pressed tightly against the wall and fixed with screws.
If the bed is installed differently, then the fastening to the walls is not performed.
- The first level is mounted - metal corners are used for reliability.
- At the second level, bumpers are made: boards measuring 20 * 2 cm are fixed on racks. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the inside, the holes are closed in the manner described above. On the site where they plan to install the stairs, the sides are not fixed.
- For stairs, two 4 * 6 cm beams are fixed on the bed frame - both upper and lower. Install the crossbars, fixing them with self-tapping screws.
- A plywood sheet is laid on the frame - the bottom, or the slats are fixed on the lato-holders.
If necessary, the structure is sanded, opened with a matte or shiny varnish. The edges are closed with thermal tape or plastic edge.
How to make a wooden bunk bed with your own hands (video):
DIY metal bunk bed
The construction of a metal bunk bed for children with their own hands is even simpler than a wooden one. But it is much more difficult to assemble it: it requires a welding machine and some experience in handling it.
- For the frame of the lounger, a metal corner 45 * 50 mm is used. The product is cut to size - with a hacksaw for metal or a grinder. At the ends of the corners, sections are cut out for a tighter joint and connected to the sides - a channel 65 * 32 mm. Parts are welded, checking the parallelism of the elements and the magnitude of the right angle.
- There are no sides in the metal structure.
- Vertical racks are cut from a thin-walled pipe with a diameter of 25 mm. The sunbed frame is welded to the racks. All welds light up
- Sides for the upper tier, headboard and footboard are more often ordered in the workshop: forging, hot or cold, allows you to get not only durable, but also a beautiful product. However, they can also be assembled independently from a pipe of the same diameter and rods. In any case, the sides on the second tier in the form of a single curved railing are not suitable. The sides should be made according to the type of railing with transom filling.
Manufacturing video
- Most of the do-it-yourself videos on making bunk beds show only some moments of assembly. The lion's share of them is removed only for the purpose of familiarization.
- Amateur videos are more often shot by experienced home craftsmen: here you can learn a lot of useful things. But only interesting or important moments from the point of view of the performer are shown here. Processes that he considers trivial or well-known are little covered.
- The most informative source for a beginner is the instructions for assembling a finished wooden bed. Here, the material includes not only the installation sequence, but also a description of all the required parts, an indication of dimensions and illustrations for fasteners.
Using the instructions and more detailed video material, it is quite possible to make a bunk bed.
A homemade do-it-yourself bunk bed is a practical and attractive solution for a nursery. Its design is quite simple, so it can be made even by a novice master. And it’s even easier to arrange to the taste of the child.
Instructions for assembling a finished wooden bunk bed (video):