The stove for working out from a gas cylinder - instructions for self-assembly. Do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a gas cylinder: a stove in a few hours Potbelly stove from a gas cylinder dimensions

The private house is heated, as a rule, by an autonomous heating system. But auxiliary buildings and garages do not need to be heated around the clock, and at the same time it is absolutely impossible to do without heat, especially in winter in the garage when working with a car. You can temporarily heat a utility room or garage with an electric heater, but this solution leads to costs, since electricity is an expensive resource today.

But the option of a small solid fuel stove will be not only more economical, but also convenient, since a small hand-made potbelly stove or rocket stove is completely non-volatile, compact and mobile. The easiest stove to make is from a 50-liter propane gas cylinder, since it requires almost no seam welding.

Propane cylinders are made of thick steel, and the stove, which has a gas cylinder as a body, will burn out very, very soon. For success, you need a welding machine and the skill of a welder, since high-quality performance and good welding of seam joints will be required. Welds are continuous, not intermittent, since the design must be completely sealed, this is the main requirement for a potbelly stove.

Work and construction

About the design - it pleases with its simplicity. The number of doors is two: an ash pan, also known as a blower chamber, and a firebox. The flue pipe can be cut into the back or top of the cylinder body.

According to the principle of operation, there are also few difficulties: they put fuel on the grate, set it on fire and observe the rapid heating of the metal cylinder. The property of metals to heat up quickly and give off heat just as quickly and cool down is known, so you will have to watch the stove and periodically put firewood in the firebox. According to the efficiency of this unit, it is low, and a lot of firewood is needed. But the potbelly stove eats any solid fuel and firewood - there are no whims, this is one of the advantages of this design. the omnivorousness of bourgeois women is a well-known fact, not only logs, peat and coal are suitable, but many types of household garbage, paper and rags, waste from carpentry, etc.

Two important points: the first is that metal stoves work much more efficiently if they are lined with bricks, and you can use ordinary ceramic bricks (not refractory), and lay with clay added to the mortar. A prerequisite is the presence of an air gap of 50 - 100 mm between hot metal and brickwork.

The second point - in order to increase the heat transfer of the potbelly stove, the installation of the chimney should not be done vertically, but at an angle, increase the length of the chimney by passing it along the walls and along the ceiling. Such a broken chimney will contribute to a more complete combustion of the fuel, including the fine residue. To get an economizer, the exit of the chimney pipe from the stove body is made vertical, as it should be according to the rules of heat engineering, but then the pipe goes at an angle or in the form of broken segments. In this case, hot flue gases will not be able to fly out into the street immediately, but will give almost all the heat into the room. Of course, such a stove with a chimney will be stationary.

Work on the manufacture of a stove from a cylinder

First of all, the former propane cylinder is freed from gas residues, which are always present. Carefully unscrew the valve and direct the jet in the opposite direction. The gas flow is visible to the eye, and when it dries up, it is necessary to pour condensate out of the cylinder - an extremely unpleasant substance with a sharp, unpleasant odor. By turning the cylinder over and draining the condensate into an unnecessary container, and then disposing of it, you can get rid of the unnecessary smell. Care should be taken to ensure that condensation does not get on the floor or furniture in the house, as it will be difficult to get rid of this smell. It is best to prepare the balloon not indoors, but away from all buildings.

After the cylinder is released, it is turned over again and in a vertical position it is filled with water under the neck. Water will displace the last remnants of the gas mixture. Then the balloon is placed on its side and the water is drained. After that, the cylinder is completely safe and you can apply electric welding or gas welding to it, as well as cutting with a grinder.

Potbelly stove from a cylinder, like all other models of potbelly stoves, can be vertical and horizontal. The second is considered the simplest, traditional and "technological" in execution.

A brief technological sequence for the implementation of a horizontal potbelly stove:

Cut off the bottle cap. Tool - grinder
Make a hole for installing a chimney in the back or top of the case. The diameter of the branch pipe can be in the range of 80 - 120 mm.
For the front wall of the stove, a metal sheet of thicknesses is required. Not less than 4 mm and large enough to cut a circle with a diameter equal to that of the cylinder. For the blower, it is also an ash pan, and for the combustion chamber in a circle, two rectangular holes are cut out with a grinder or with a chisel. Cut out carefully to get the base for the doors. It is possible to seal the furnace window by laying an asbestos cord along the contour of the hole from the inside. After welding the hinges to the cut out rectangles, doors are obtained.
Reinforcing bars bent by a snake can serve as a grate. The resulting lattice is fixed to the inner surface of the cylinder by welding - this is a simplified method. It is a little more difficult, but more practical for further operation, it will be to put the grate on the corners welded to the side sections of the cylinder.
The legs for the stove are a very important element. The legs can be made from a steel pipe, the diameter is sufficient 32 - 50 mm. You can also weld the legs from the outside of the cylinder.
Lastly, a butt weld is made connecting the cylinder and the front part of the stove with holes for the furnace and blower.
The stove will be ready after connecting the chimney made of steel pipe. The first furnace will show the tightness of the structure. As a rule, with careful execution and good welding of the seams, the potbelly stove works correctly.

A vertical potbelly stove from a cylinder can be made in two ways. There are no fundamental differences with the horizontal version, except that the legs are not required for vertical installation.

The first way: more difficult in cutting and welding, but more convenient in assembly work. The beginning of work - as in the manufacture of a horizontal potbelly stove. The cylinder cover is cut off and a grate made of steel reinforcement is installed inside. Holes for the blower and combustion chambers are cut out on the side.
The second way: it is almost not necessary to cut the metal, but it is more difficult to assemble the stove. The lid is not cut off, and a grate made of reinforcement is installed through a cut hole for the furnace chamber. It is very inconvenient to work in such cramped conditions, but the stove is almost solid.

Making a rocket stove from a cylinder

Differences between bourgeois and jet stoves:

The rocket stove has higher efficiency. The reason is the special organization of the movement of hot flue gases, including carbon monoxide CO inside the furnace, in this case a cylinder. The trajectory of this movement is particularly long and complex, and the heat transfer is correspondingly higher. A rocket stove from the same cylinder of 50 liters will be able to heat a larger area compared to the bourgeois version.
The design of the rocket stove is supplemented with an internal part - a square pipe, brought out from the bottom of the steel tank. The pipe is not closed at the ends, and its outer part serves as a combustion chamber, and an open chimney channel is formed inside, through which the heated air goes into the cylinder.
The chimney is connected not at the top, but at the lower level of the structure, since the flow of hot flue gas, smoke and heated air will also go from top to bottom and fill the cylinder completely.

A rocket stove is much more complicated than a potbelly stove, it will require additional components and parts to be completed. Removing the chimney from below is more difficult, and installing a square pipe inside the cylinder and providing air in two levels, primary and secondary flows, adds to the complexity of manufacturing. it is easier to make rocket stoves from gas cylinders, since there is a ready-made sealed case made of thick steel, factory-made. Cutting is required only for making holes for connecting the chimney and under the combustion chamber door.

The furnace of a rocket furnace is carried out as for long-burning furnaces, according to the method of heating up to a “warm pipe”. The first step is to lay fast-burning light fuel (paper, straw, branches and leaves). When the chimney warms up, make a fuel bookmark from coal or firewood. Rocket stoves got their name partly because of their features - with incorrect operation (very strong traction with an open blower), you can get a jet of fire from above and a sound reminiscent of the operation of a turbine or, as they say, a rocket takeoff.

The rocket stove requires a special approach, since it needs an experimental tincture for each type of fuel. To determine the mode of the furnace, at the beginning of the process, open the blower door completely and observe. As soon as the stove enters the normal mode, it starts to “buzz”, the blower door begins to gradually close, reducing the air supply and draft. When the stove stops buzzing and “rustles”, the gap between the blower door and the body is left in a certain position.

If you pay attention to how much a cast-iron or steel wood-burning stove costs, you will quickly realize that buying it to heat a garage or a dacha with a greenhouse is not always justified. A more affordable option is a potbelly stove from a long-burning gas cylinder, made by hand or welded by a craftsman to order according to your drawings. Our goal is to help with the choice of design, describe the manufacturing technology of the potbelly stove and its installation, up to the chimney device.

We select the design of a wood stove

Outdated and inefficient heating equipment is gradually becoming a thing of the past, which also affects home-made stoves. Nowadays, no one needs primitive iron boxes with a pipe and doors, devouring firewood without good heat transfer. A modern potbelly stove should be economical and heat the room well. Therefore, advanced craftsmen are constantly working to improve steel furnaces.

In order to achieve the most efficient operation of a wood-burning heater, it is necessary to solve 2 questions: how to increase the efficiency of a potbelly stove and the duration of burning from one load, without increasing the amount and price of the materials used. We present 3 options for homemade products, where these tasks were successfully solved and implemented:

three-way oven from two propane cylinders;
pyrolysis potbelly stove with an air-fire-tube heat exchanger and a secondary chamber;
a very popular design is "Bubafonya" with top combustion of firewood from a gas cylinder.

For reference. The first 2 units are designed, made and tested by our expert, who kindly provided his photos and videos.

If you are friends with a welding machine and have the necessary tools, then there will be no technical problems with manufacturing. Below we will present the drawings and explain the technology of how to make a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder for all three options. But first, make your choice by reading the review of these stoves.

To make a stove, you need a welding machine, grinder, metalwork and measuring tools. Clamps will need several, at least 2 pieces

Three-way potbelly stove - the principle of operation and the pros and cons

The master assigned the playful name "Collider" to this home-made furnace because of the unusual appearance and good heat transfer. This wood burning potbelly stove is made from two standard propane tanks with a capacity of 50 liters, welded to each other at an angle of 90 °, as shown in the drawing. The principle of operation is this:

The first tank, laid horizontally, plays the role of a firebox, respectively, equipped with doors and grates. An impressive portion of firewood is placed in it and set on fire.
The second vessel is an air heat exchanger with internal partitions that slow down the flow of flue gases and force them to change direction three times and give off more heat. At the end, the combustion products leave the heater through the chimney.
To increase the heating surface, both parts of the housing are equipped with additional ribs.
At the bottom, an ash pan made of sheet metal is welded to the firebox, whose door regulates the air supply for combustion.

Sectional drawing of a homemade three-way wood-burning heater

Note. With the same success, instead of cylinders, you can use a steel pipe for a potbelly stove with a diameter of 300 mm and thin walls (4-5 mm).

The approximate power of the Collider is 10 kW with an efficiency of about 55%, which allows you to heat a room up to 100 m² - a summer house, a greenhouse or a large garage (box). Practical tests have shown that in the mode of maintaining heat in a heated room, 1 load of firewood is enough for 1.5-2 hours. If you use the heating unit in a house of a smaller area (25-50 m²), then the burning time will increase to 3-4 hours. Those who understand the topic will understand that for a home-made potbelly stove this is a good economy.

Photo of the finished Collider stove with heat exchange fins

There is only one minus for this long-burning stove - a strange appearance. But it is offset by numerous advantages:

ease of manufacture;
fast warm-up and decent duration of work from 1 bookmark of solid fuel;
cheap design, you only have to buy comfortable handles and even a pipe for a potbelly stove if there are no propane cylinders;
due to the size of the firebox, long (80 cm) and massive logs are placed in the stove, which contributes to the duration of burning;
the unit can be made with a hob, as shown in the photo.

The “collider”, like any do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a gas cylinder, can be supplemented by installing a water circuit that regulates the air damper in the ash pan door and an external blower fan. The dimensions of the stove are changed in any direction by selecting tanks of a smaller capacity or pipes of a different diameter.

The operation of the potbelly stove used to heat the 100 m² cafe is described in the video:

Overview of the pyrolysis oven for 2 chambers

This small wood-burning stove, made from a 24-liter gas cylinder, was named "Pyaterochka" after the number of air heat exchanger tubes. It works according to this principle:

As in the previous case, the cylinder laid on its side serves as a combustion chamber, and an ash pan is attached to it from below. The role of the grate is played by slots cut in the wall of the vessel.
An opening is made on top of the tank, where 5 vertical pipes of the heat exchanger adjoin. Hot flue gases move along them and thus give off part of the heat to the room.
From the heat exchanger, the combustion products enter the secondary chamber, where heated air is separately supplied through a separate tube. Due to this, the combustible gases formed in the furnace are burned up and generate additional heat, after which they are sent to the chimney.

Drawing of a pyrolysis potbelly stove for long burning with a gas afterburner

The results of practical tests of the heater are as follows: a room with an area of 30 m² warms up by 20 ° C for 1 hour, after which one laying of wood is enough for 1.5-2 hours, depending on the operating mode. Approximate power - 5 kW. As you can see, in this design, the burning time is reduced by reducing the firebox, but the stove is very compact and will fit in any room. And yes, it heats up pretty well.

Advice. Do you want to increase the burning time to an average of 4 hours? Then study the drawing of another option, which shows the same pyrolysis potbelly stove, made with your own hands from a 50-liter gas cylinder. The device of the heating units is identical, the difference is only in the volume of the tanks used as a firebox.

It looks like a two-chamber homemade oven. 2 rods are welded on top - you can put a pot or a kettle of water

Due to the efficient burning of firewood, the Pyaterochka stove is more economical than the Collider, although it is more difficult to assemble. In terms of the cost of materials, the difference between them is small - in the first there are 2 cylinders, in the second - 5 pipes with a diameter of 57 mm and a length of 40 cm. A separate advantage of the stove is the ability to burn wet wood and any debris after heating without losing the intensity of heating. The rest of the advantages are the same - cheapness, ease of use and the possibility of modernization.

Another good advice. It is quite natural if, after replacing a small cylinder with a standard one (50 l), you wish to increase the power of the heater and add 2-3 more pipes to the heat exchanger. Remember that the flow area and the draft of the chimney should increase accordingly. Otherwise, you will waste materials and time, because due to insufficient draft, the outer sections will remain cold and the power of the furnace will not increase.

Enlarged version of "Pyaterochka" from a large 50 l cylinder

Upper burning stove "Bubafonya"

By and large, "Bubafonya" cannot be categorized as a bourgeoisie, since it is fundamentally different in the principle of operation. But it is impossible to ignore this stove due to its wide popularity, due to the duration of burning from 1 load of firewood from 6 to 10 hours. However, the heater is famous for its numerous shortcomings, which we will discuss below.

The operation algorithm of the Bubafonya long-burning stove, shown in the drawing, is as follows:

The firebox is a 50 liter propane tank standing upright. Through a hole in the top cover, an air supply pipe enters inside, ending with a thick metal disk. From below, steel strips are attached to it, distributing air in all directions.
When the firebox is filled to the top with firewood, a heavy disc presses them down and makes them sag as they burn. Ignition is also carried out from above, and only then the pipe with the load is lowered.
The combustion air supply is regulated by a damper mounted on the upper end of the pipe. The chimney pipe is cut into the side wall of the cylinder under the lid itself.

Drawing of the upper combustion furnace and the layout of the air distributors

Note. The place where the pipe passes through the cover is not sealed and secondary air is sucked in there, helping to burn the combustible gases above the disk when the furnace is properly heated.

The strengths of Bubafoni are a decent duration of work, simplicity and the possibility of converting it into an upper combustion boiler (a furnace is made with a water jacket, as described in). But the weaknesses have forced many garage owners to abandon such bourgeois:

the stove cannot be reloaded until all the fuel has burned out;
from closing the damper, the furnace will not go out and will smolder for a long time, because secondary air enters it;
without good draft, the heater smokes into the room;
in the slow burning mode, the stove heats up weakly, and the chimney is intensively clogged with soot;
to enter normal mode, the unit must warm up well, which consumes ¼ of fuel.

On the left in the photo - a close-up air damper, on the right - home-made heat exchange fins from profiles for mounting GKL

For reference. In order to burn out the soot in the chimney, it is necessary to drive the “Bubafonya” in the maximum mode with each kindling.

Finally, let's sweeten the pill a little. Despite all the shortcomings, a long-burning stove from a gas cylinder does not lose popularity, in addition, it successfully functions on sawdust and various combustible waste.

Instructions for making a potbelly stove with your own hands

Before you weld a long-burning wood-burning stove, you should prepare all the necessary power tools:

welding inverter;
grinder, she is also an angle grinder;
drill with a set of drills.

Note. We will not list hammers with pliers here, since a good owner will always have a complete set of tools in the house.

Of course, you will need an old propane tank, from which you need to twist the valve and be sure to fill it with water before cutting. The fact is that propane is heavier than air and its residues will not leave the tank on their own. To push them out of there, just water is used. The order of further work depends on the chosen design.

Assembling a three-way oven

In addition to cylinders, for the manufacture of this potbelly stove, it is necessary to prepare the following materials:

sheet metal 2 mm thick will go to the ash chamber and ribs, 3 mm - to the doors;
a piece of a round pipe with a diameter of 100 mm - on the chimney pipe;
corners or profile pipes for legs;
asbestos, and better - graphite-asbestos cord for sealing doors;
steel profile 20 x 20 mm or reinforcement of the same section - to reinforce the grate.

Docking of two cylinders (left) and welding of door frames (right)

Advice. Handles - constipation with beautiful ebonite overlays are easier to buy than to waste time on home-made ones. To give your stove a modern look, purchase heat-resistant paint (sold in aerosol cans).

To prevent the rods from bending from high temperature, they need to be reinforced with welded profiles.

First of all, cut the metal into blanks according to the dimensions indicated on the long-burning potbelly stove drawing presented in the previous section. The manufacturing technology of the furnace is as follows:

At the end of the first cylinder, cut an opening for the door and a hole in the wall for the release of gases. At the second vessel, saw off the bottom, and at the end, make a hole for a 100 mm pipe. Make semicircular cutouts on the walls so that one cylinder sits tightly on the other.
Cut through the slots in the grate. From the outside, weld reinforcements from a 20 mm profile to it.
Make an ash pan and door frames, weld them to the body. Install the legs at the same time.
Weld the doors and seal the joints to the frame. Install doors and handles.
Use the cut-out walls of the cylinder as partitions by welding them inside the vertical tank.
Connect the two vessels together by welding. Install the flue pipe and scald it.
Attach heat exchanger fins to both housings. This completes the oven.

A few words about how to make tight doors for a potbelly stove for long burning. The technology is simple: a channel is formed from narrow steel strips welded to the inner surface of the sash, where a graphite-asbestos cord is subsequently stuffed. The main thing is to clearly determine the location of the groove. Upon completion, all metal must be degreased and painted in 3 layers with breaks for drying.

Advice. Before painting, it is advisable to heat the welded oven in order to burn out all the old paint.

Production of a pyrolysis two-chamber oven

The assembly scheme of this potbelly stove with high efficiency is in many ways similar to the Collider, only 1 gas cylinder is used, and pipes with a diameter of 57 and 20 mm are added from the materials (to the heat exchanger and secondary air supply, respectively). The order of work is as follows:

Cut holes in the tank for the loading door and for the installation of a heat exchanger. The dimensions of the platform for it are 260 x 200 mm.
Make an ash pan and place the doors as described above. Weld the supports.
Make a heat exchanger by cutting pipes in a checkerboard pattern between two sheets of metal. Observe the center distances indicated on the drawing.
Bend the 20 mm pipe at an angle of 90° and weld it to the heat exchanger. Attach the latter to the opening cut in the balloon.
Weld the secondary chamber with the chimney. As a cover, use a semicircular blank, which used to be the wall of the cylinder. The heater is ready.

Stages of assembling the firebox door - a non-combustible insulation is laid in the center, a graphite cord is placed along the edges

Note. If you use a standard cylinder, then the work algorithm does not change, only the ash pan needs to be made larger (the size is shown in the drawing).

A little about how to properly supply air to the secondary chamber of a potbelly stove for long burning. Before installation, the end of the tube must be plugged, and 5-6 cuts in the form of a Latin V should be made on the sides. Then the pipe is inserted into the hole in the upper platform of the heat exchanger and scalded. If you make a potbelly stove with your own hands from a pipe taken instead of a cylinder, then you will need to weld the back wall and front panel of metal at least 4 mm thick.

Such slots must be made on the sides of the tube - air passes through them into the secondary chamber

Photo of the potbelly stove assembly process

We put the frame of the oven doors

Welding an ash pan from sheet metal

We cut through the grates and reinforce them with a welding profile

We weld the ash chamber to the cylinder

We put handles and locks on the doors

We cut holes for pipes in the flanges of the heat exchanger

Making a potbelly stove on video

Assembling the heater "Bubafonya"

The manufacturing technology of this stove is one of the simplest. Take a 50 l gas cylinder, cut off the upper part along the factory seam, and then perform the following steps:

Weld a grate from a periodic profile reinforcement with a diameter of 20-24 mm and install it according to the drawing. Cut an opening below and place the door of the ash chamber.
In the cut off cover, make a hole for the air pipe, and weld a steel strip to the outside of the cylinder for sealing.
Attach a disk weight with welded air diffusers to one end of the 57 mm pipe by welding, and put an air damper on the other.
Install the flue pipe.
Insert the air pipe into the firebox and put on the lid.

In fact, 3 parts are the whole Bubafonya oven

For reference. Many home craftsmen do not put the grate and the ash pan door in the Bubafonya stove. This simplifies the work, but complicates the operation: after the firewood burns out, the body has to be turned over to shake out the ash.

Installation of a grate made of reinforcing bars

How to properly install a potbelly stove and chimney

When placing wood-burning heaters, it is important to follow fire safety rules. This is especially true for the ovens of our expert, whose upper part can become red hot at maximum operation. Here the requirements are:

In a garage or in a country house built of brick or other fireproof materials, the minimum distance to the walls of the room is not standardized. But any combustible objects or structures should be no closer than 50 cm from the furnace body.
In a greenhouse, a potbelly stove should not be placed close to plants and external glass walls.
In a wooden house, the floors under the stove are covered with a metal sheet protruding from the side of the firebox by 700 mm. The nearest walls are also sewn up with metal to prevent fire.

A separate question is what to make a chimney for a potbelly stove from. Aluminum corrugation is definitely not suitable, since the temperature of the gases at the outlet reaches 200-400 ° C, depending on the operating mode. What options are allowed:

ordinary steel pipe with thin walls;
flue made of roofing or stainless steel;
insulated sandwich chimney.

It is better to lay the chimney at an angle (left) than just vertically (right)

Advice. It is preferable to take the last version of the chimney - a double-walled pipe with basalt fiber insulation in the middle.

To create good traction, the top of the pipe is placed at a height of 4 m or more, as measured from the grate. The Bubafonya potbelly stove is especially demanding on traction; for it, the exhaust of gases should be made higher so that later there are no questions why the stove smokes into the room. Ideally, the vertical section of the chimney should end in a condensate collector, although many home craftsmen do not adhere to this rule.

By the way, the correct chimney allows you to increase the efficiency of the potbelly stove. This is achieved in two ways:

In a garage or greenhouse, the chimney pipe is extended and laid at an angle, and at the other end of the room it goes to the roof, as shown in the photo above. So the hot products of combustion will give more heat to the internal air.
A heat exchanger is installed on the vertical section of the chimney, connected to the water heating system of the house or cottage. Minus: soot will have to be removed more often from the chimney of a potbelly stove for long burning.

Wiring diagram for a water heat exchanger located on a chimney

A samovar-type heat exchanger, placed on the chimney of a potbelly stove, should not be directly connected to a water heating network. There is a danger that the coolant may boil and break the pipelines. It is better to use the connection scheme through a container with water - a heat accumulator, which can also be made with your own hands from a gas cylinder. For a description and drawings of its design, you can.

Heating appliances are used not only in residential, but also in industrial premises. There are a great many modifications of them, because in the workshops the conditions are usually not intricate. Therefore, they install everything that is affordable and economical - from bourgeois to technically well-thought-out heating systems.
Today we offer for consideration one of the most interesting models of furnaces. The rocket stove or jet stove is fundamentally different from others by the high degree of heating and convection of the body, which is made either of bricks (stone stove) or of thick-walled metal. This heater is equipped with a water circuit, connected to radiators and an almost complete economical heating system is obtained.
The homemade author suggests making our version of a jet furnace from an empty propane cylinder. A small upgrade, a minimum of parts and in front of you is a great option for a heating furnace for a production workshop!

The principle of operation of the furnace

The furnace consists of a firebox, a heated container and a chimney. The firebox is made in the form of a bent pipe, in which firewood is burned in its lower part. Hot air rises through a vertical pipe located in the center of the heated container, which in our case is made from a gas cylinder. Rising up, hot air heats the walls of the container, and gradually cools down, it exits from the bottom through the chimney, which creates air convection and draft in the furnace.

Materials:

Propane gas cylinder;
Square pipe welded from paired corners;
Metal corner 50x50x5 mm;
Round chimney pipe with swivel elbows;
Auxiliary metal elements: plates, trimming corners, plugs.

Tools:

For cutting metal: an inverter plasma cutter or a grinder with a cleaning and cutting disc;
Welding machine;
Metal right corner, tape measure, marker for marking;
Bubble level, hammer, metal brush.

Making a rocket stove

Before you get to work, you must remember that gas cylinders are extremely flammable and explosive. They must be thoroughly rinsed with water, settled for a while in a cylinder, since even small residues of liquefied gas during cutting can lead to an explosion of the container.

Cooking balloon

A household propane cylinder consists of a neck, a shell and a bottom. It is usually placed vertically so that the shut-off valve remains in the most visible place in the center of the cylinder. You need to get rid of it by lightly tapping it with a hammer.

Having unscrewed the fitting with an open-end wrench, we fill the cylinder with water to wash off the remnants of liquefied gas. We leave the water to stand for a while, and then carefully overturning the container, drain it. Even after such measures, we carefully transfer the balloon to the treatment site. Using a plasma cutter, cut off the bottom of the balloon.

We cut the pipes and scald the firebox

The next step is to cut metal corners according to the size of the loading chamber, furnace and air duct. We cut them with a grinder or a plasma cutter, and boil each of them along the ribs.
The connections will be located at different angles. The dimensions of these elements are as follows:

Vertical air duct - 900 mm;
Horizontal firebox - 500 mm;
Feeder or loading chamber - 400 mm.

The firebox with the air duct are connected perpendicularly. We cut the ends of these pipes at a mustache at 45 degrees, and boil the pipes from all sides. Since the metal during the welding process heats up over 1500 degrees Celsius, it can lead. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to check the accuracy of the connection with a metal corner.

The location of the loading chamber will be inclined, so the feeder nozzle must be cut at an angle of less than 45 degrees. We expose it on the fuel pipe a few centimeters from the edge of the firebox, where the ash pan will subsequently be located. According to the marking of the pipe section, we make a slot at the junction of the elements, and boil it in place.

The firebox must be level and securely fastened. A small segment of the corner from which the pipes were made will serve as a support for him. We cut it exactly to size, and put it on the bottom of the cylinder, checking the identity of the straight line between the planes of the cylinder with a metal corner.

We boil the firebox, reinforcing the vertical pipe of the duct with metal plates or corners. We mark out a seat for it on the wall of the cylinder, and make a slot with a plasma or a grinder. The more accurate the cut out is, the easier it is to scald it later.

We expose the firebox so that the vertical pipe inside the cylinder is located strictly in the center. We weld the bottom and the nozzle of the furnace with a welding machine.

An ordinary bolt or similar piece of metal will help to plug the hole on the top of the cylinder. We insert it into the hole, and weld it to the balloon. You can clean the seam with a grinding disc and a grinder.

A home-made stove made from improvised materials, or "potbelly stove", first appeared in Petrograd in 1918. Due to the humanitarian catastrophe that followed the revolution of 1917, the city's central heating stopped working. In many houses built in the 20th century, fireplaces and stoves had purely aesthetic and decorative functions and could not heat large apartments.

The situation was aggravated by the lack of firewood. And then numerous handicraft workshops launched mass production of compact and economical, quickly installed iron stoves on legs, designed to heat one room, with a pipe leading out the window. According to the name of the buyers of such stoves - representatives of the former rich strata of society - the stoves were called "potbelly stoves". A century has passed since those harsh days, but potbelly stoves, having significantly improved their design, safety and efficiency, continue to warm small rooms.

Such stoves are available for manufacturing in a home workshop, one of the best starting materials for them is a used gas cylinder.

Features and varieties of homemade stoves from a gas cylinder

All solid fuel stoves from a gas cylinder have common structural elements:

The body, in which holes are cut for the door, blower and exhaust pipe.
It blew.
Exhaust pipe equipped with a throttle valve.
The grate of the grate, located low above the bottom of the stove. Fuel is placed on it and its combustion occurs.
Internal walls that form the flow of combustion products.
Legs.

Fuel is loaded through the door and ash and slag are removed from the grate space. Through the blower, an air flow enters the combustion chamber and the combustion mode is adjusted. The blower is made a structural part of the door or made in the form of a separate hole with a damper.
A throttle-type damper is inserted into the exhaust pipe, which also regulates the combustion mode.
Furnaces from a gas cylinder are performed in vertical and horizontal versions. A horizontal oven is easier to implement, but takes up a lot of space. The vertical one can be placed in any corner of the room, it has significantly better traction and fuel combustion efficiency.

And finally, the king of household gas cylinders is a 50-liter giant. This is the best option for creating a potbelly stove with your own hands, suitable for heating a country house.
40-liter industrial gas cylinders are too small in diameter and thick walls. It is better to cut and shorten them. Thick walls will warm up longer and keep heat longer. This stove will also last much longer.

Technology for making a furnace from a conventional gas cylinder

IMPORTANT! Before starting work on any gas cylinder, it is necessary to completely remove the remaining gas from it! To do this, the balloon is filled with water with a detergent designed to rid the future furnace of gas odors and mercaptan flavors.

Next, mark the holes for the door, blower and exhaust pipe and cut them out with a grinder.
You can purchase a ready-made cast-iron stove door in a block with a blower. In this case, a frame of their corners is welded to the opening in the gas cylinder, and a cast door is bolted to it. If aesthetics are not so important, then the door is made from a cut-out piece of the balloon. In this case, a more or less wide gap will inevitably remain. In the most primitive version, there are no grates and protrusions that form the flow of combustion products.

The fuel is loaded to the bottom of the stove, after it has completely burned out, the ash is removed with a scoop. In this embodiment, it is difficult to implement the continuous burning mode.
features of the horizontal potbelly stove
A horizontal gas cylinder stove is quite suitable for heating a garage or greenhouse.

There is little space left in the horizontal potbelly stove to accommodate the grate and the ash tray, so sometimes the grate is welded into the bottom of the stove, and the ash box is welded from below. Potbelly stove doors are hung on purchased or home-made hinges. An interesting option - hinges - these are three links of a massive drive chain from a powerful engine or other mechanism, the extreme links are welded to the wall and to the door, respectively.

The assembly process of the vertical oven

A vertical oven is more difficult to manufacture, but requires less space for its installation and has better user qualities. The volume of the cylinder is used more rationally. The principle of operation of the furnace does not change, but is implemented with greater efficiency. In the vertical version, two doors are made - for loading fuel and for the ash tray. Reinforcement bars are welded between these doors.

In principle, the entire upper part of the furnace can be retracted to load fuel, which will ensure long-term operation on one load. However, often the volume of the combustion chamber is reduced in order to accommodate additional heat exchangers in the upper part. One of the interesting options is through metal pipes welded into the upper part of the gas cylinder, through which air is driven by a fan (necessarily heat-resistant).

Such a device will significantly increase heat transfer and reduce the heating time of the room several times. If forced circulation of water is established through the passage pipes, then a water heating system can be installed.

Bubafon long burning stove

A bubafon type stove, made from a gas cylinder, is a potbelly stove only in appearance.
The design and principle of its operation differ significantly from a simple potbelly stove.

Furnaces of this type are produced by several industrial enterprises, but are not cheap. With an equipped home workshop and basic skills in welding and locksmithing, a gas cylinder bubafon stove is quite affordable for do-it-yourself manufacturing.

Features and principle of operation

It implements the principle of long-term combustion, based on the physicochemical phenomenon of pyrolysis - the smoldering of fuel with a lack of oxygen and the combustion of the gases released during this. One load of firewood is enough for 4-8 hours of burning.
The design of the stove is different in that the air supply pipe with a damper at the end is located vertically and exits through the top of the stove with a small non-sealed gap,

The pipe has vertical mobility. A massive disk with guides for the gas flow is fixed at its lower end. The chimney is welded to the top of the stove on the side. Firewood is loaded vertically into the oven, the disc presses it against the grate. As the lower layers of the fuel burn, the disc lowers and the combustion air is supplied to the upper layer of the fuel to be pyrolyzed.

Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of the bubafon top burning stove are as follows:

High fuel efficiency. Heat does not escape into the chimney.
Ease of manufacture and operation.

However, the design also has disadvantages:

It is impossible to replenish the supply of fuel in the stove until it is completely burned.
It is impossible to interrupt the combustion process.
When the draft of the sand is reduced, it smokes.
Not suitable for rapid heating of cold rooms.

The necessary materials are the same gas cylinder, grate fittings, a 90-degree branch pipe, a metal pipe a meter and a half long and a heavy disk, slightly smaller in diameter than the inner diameter of the gas cylinder.

A do-it-yourself bubafonya stove made from a gas cylinder is suitable for heating a greenhouse or other uninhabited premises.

Operation features

When operating, it is important to remember the following:
Firewood in layers should be of the same length, they should be loaded neatly and evenly, avoiding distortions

For the initial warm-up and exit to the pyrolysis mode, the stove takes an hour or more, while up to one-fifth of the fuel is consumed

It is also required to carefully monitor the position of the damper in order to prevent smoke in the room.

Furnace in production

The waste oil furnace works as follows: a supply of oil is poured into the fuel compartment, it is set on fire, and a larger or smaller air flow is supplied through the air damper, thus controlling the furnace power. The products of combustion rise along a vertical perforated pipe and carry away the vapors of the evaporating oil.

This mixture is afterburned along the entire length of the pipe and enters the afterburner, divided into two parts. In the first, oil vapors are burned, in the second, with a lack of oxygen, nitrogen compounds are split into oxygen and nitrogen. The resulting oxygen contributes to the afterburning of combustion products, ensuring temperature stability and energy efficiency.

A pyrolysis oil furnace made from a gas cylinder has a very high efficiency - about 80%. The disadvantage of such a pyrolysis device is harmful fumes and an unpleasant odor. Such a stove is not applicable in residential premises and in places where animals are kept.

How to make an oil stove from a cylinder

The furnace for mining from a gas cylinder is made in a vertical design. The upper part is cut off from the cylinder, into which the afterburner chamber is welded. In the floor of the chamber, a hole closed by a damper is arranged for adding oil.
The outlet for the chimney from the afterburner compartment should be located as far as possible from its partition, at least 20 cm.

It is important to remember that oil should be added very carefully from a gas cylinder to a hot pyrolysis furnace, it is better to wait for it to cool completely. In more complex designs, the oil pipe is led out through the top cover; oil can be added to such a furnace without interrupting combustion.
To make such a stove from a cylinder of 50 liters is quite affordable for a medium-skilled master

Varieties of oil stoves

On the waste oil, you can make the already considered pyrolysis furnace. Another type of oil stove from a gas cylinder is a drip or long-burning stove.
At the bottom of the combustion chamber is a brick. Above it is an oil (or diesel) supply tube.

Adjust the oil supply with a poppet valve so that approximately one drop per minute drips. To start the furnace, a small puddle of oil is poured onto the brick and set on fire, the brick is heated, and the next drops flare up on contact with it. The products of combustion rise to the top of the stove and heat it.

Pros and cons of a dropper

Dropper Benefits:

Extremely simple design, minimal amount of materials.
Profitability.
Flaws.
Not suitable for rooms with people and animals.
High fire hazard.

Perhaps one of the proposed options will attract the attention of a home master, and he will try his hand at making a stove from a gas cylinder with his own hands.

In many private households there is an old liquefied gas cylinder. Many useful things can be made from this object, for example, a simple heating device.

If there is a desire and a welding machine, then a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder with your own hands can be made without any problems. Of course, some additional materials will be needed.

A potbelly stove is a primitive version of a metal one. Such a device works extremely simply: firewood is laid in the furnace, they burn out, the furnace body heats up and gives off heat to the surrounding air. Smoke gases are removed through the chimney, and the ash is poured through the grate into the ash pan, which should be cleaned periodically.

They heat a potbelly stove with other combustible materials: diesel fuel, coal, peat, household waste, etc. If desired, on such a stove you can cook quite successfully. This moment should be considered even before the start of the manufacture of the structure in order to make a flat hob.

The potbelly stove is a combustion chamber made of thick metal with a loading door, a chimney, a grate and a blower. You can use an old gas cylinder as a housing

For a potbelly stove, you need to choose a special place, finished with fire-resistant materials. It is desirable that she stand to the side, where no one accidentally touches the body and does not burn herself.

If desired, the upper part of the vertical potbelly stove from an old gas cylinder can be turned into a hob of modest size

Such a metal structure weighs a lot, so there is no question of any mobility of the device. It will be difficult to move the potbelly stove to heat different rooms.

Such stoves are usually used to heat utility rooms in which there is no electricity or where it is supplied intermittently: a garage, a barn, a workshop, etc.

From two gas cylinders connected perpendicularly, you can make an improved version of the potbelly stove, which allows you to save more heat and get high returns when burning fuel

Another problem is the low efficiency, since part of the thermal energy during the combustion of wood literally flies into the chimney. There are various ways to keep warm and modify the potbelly stove a little to make it work more efficiently.

Finally, you need to take care of good ventilation of the room in which the potbelly stove is installed, since such a device burns a large amount of oxygen during operation.

So, a potbelly stove consists of a metal case, the role of which is usually “invited” to an old gas cylinder. In the case it is necessary to make two doors: large and small. The first serves to load fuel, the second is needed as a blower through which air enters the combustion chamber to ensure the combustion process and traction.

To begin with, it is recommended to open the cylinder and bleed off the remaining gas. Of course, this should be done outdoors, not indoors. Then you need to drain the remaining liquid from the cylinder, condensed inside. This substance usually has a pungent and unpleasant smell, so it is best to prepare a small container with a lid for it in advance so that it can be neatly packaged and discarded immediately.

There are no particularly strict requirements in terms of parameters for the design of the potbelly stove. The larger the combustion chamber, the more spacious the room will be able to heat the unit

If the condensate is accidentally spilled on the floor in the room, the specific aroma may remain for a very long time. After all these operations, the cylinder is still not ready for contact with the welding machine, because residual gas vapors remain inside.

It is necessary to fill the cylinder with water to the very top in order to completely expel all the gas from it. After that, the water is drained, now the balloon can be cut without problems.

Stage number 2 - manufacturing and filling the case

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