Plaster mixes for external works. Characteristics of cement plasters for outdoor use and application technology Ready mixes for outdoor plaster

Exterior plaster work is one of the oldest methods of exterior wall decoration. And with the advent of new methods and materials, this method only received many options applicable to various situations.

It should be noted that now there are compositions that are intended specifically for external use. Plaster mixtures for outdoor work are characterized by increased reliability and resistance to aggressive conditions (moisture, low temperature, strong wind).

Types and features

Plaster for outdoor work ("facade") can be very diverse, including being used as a decorative element (external decorative plaster, for example, "Bark beetle").

Stucco mixtures used for interior decoration can have a thermal or sound-proofing effect, and it is possible to find stucco compounds for exterior work with similar properties. But this does not mean that finishing the house with plaster from the outside will solve the problems completely.

Warm plasters for outdoor use usually contain cement. They themselves create a fairly serious "barrier" that protects the structure from the cold, especially if applied in a thick (several cm) layer. However, remember that you should reinforce the structure with a mesh for plaster.

For façade plasters, the resistance to moisture, the characteristics of the adhesive strength of the material (adhesion), the allowance for façade shrinkage and the possibility of installation on an unstable, incomplete wall covering are more critical.

The price of plaster for outdoor work depends on the availability of these properties.

Types of external plaster, depending on the materials, the following can be distinguished:

Mineral plaster;
Silicone plaster.

Mineral mixtures

This group of mixtures includes cement-based plasters, the undoubted advantages of which are their strength (if the technology and the ratio of the elements of the mixture are observed) and low price (the main components are publicly available).

The exterior finish of the house with this type of plaster is also vapor-tight, which prevents moisture from condensing, and, as a result, the coating from dampening and collapsing.

Perhaps the only negative is that there is no choice of colors for coating. But this problem is solved by painting with appropriate dyes for cement.

Since a cement slurry is used, all methods to increase its strength or setting speed can be applied. And the price of plaster for exterior walls will remain low (for 25 kg - about 350 rubles).

This group also includes silicate-based plasters, which also show parameters comparable to the previous type of mineral plaster in terms of resistance to dampness (and more often superior). But since the coating is, in fact, liquid glass, it is more fragile and can crack.

Acrylic mixes

Acrylic resins are the basis and the exterior plaster mix is supplied ready for use. Unlike the previous group, the plaster is elastic, so if the facade shrinks slightly, the coating remains crack-free.

Among the shortcomings, it can be noted that this type of plaster is applied in a fairly thin layer and always before finishing the surface. The main reason for this is the price of this type of exterior plaster, since a thicker coating will cost significantly more.

silicone compound

Compared to the previous ones, these mixtures are as elastic as possible, so they can even be used to cover wooden buildings with a large shrinkage of the facade.

There are no restrictions in the choice of colors, while the coating is self-cleaning under external influence and has sufficient vapor resistance and hydrophobic properties.

Such products cost more than the previous options, and several times. On average, a bag (25 kg) costs about 1200-1500 rubles. Ceresit products (a specific example - CT 75) - will cost 1800-2100 rubles for the same 25 kg of the mixture.

About the nuances of choice

Necessarily take into account the climate in the region. High humidity (frequent rains) - means that it is better to opt for compositions with an admixture of cement.
Consider design features. If the walls of the house are not thick enough, and serious insulation is required, it is better to use mineral compounds containing cement.
If you need to process complex structural elements (protrusions, corners, and so on) with high quality, it is better to use silicate solutions.
With a large thickness (from 3-5 cm) of the layer do not forget to purchase a reinforcing mesh- without it, it will be more difficult to cope with the task, and the result will be less reliable and durable.
Necessarily pay attention to the required conditions for the use of the material, which are set by the manufacturer (temperature conditions, the ratio of components during preparation, the time of use and the time of setting the mixture).
When calculating the amount keep a small stock after the layer has hardened, it is often necessary to process some areas again, which means that a little more material will be required.

You can buy plaster for outdoor work of any of the listed types within the declared budget. The average price for finishing plaster mixes fluctuates around 300-350 rubles (for a bag of 25 kg).

For example, Knauf outdoor plaster (cement-based, 30 kg / bag) can be purchased for 300-400 rubles. But depending on the type of plaster chosen, the price can increase significantly.

(Ceresit) costs about 400-600 rubles (for 25 kg). However, the manufacturer also has more expensive options.

Features of the work

Before the plastering of the external facade of the building, all the wiring of communications, the installation of the roof, and also after the complete shrinkage of the building are completed (you can give a small tolerance, depending on what type of plaster you use).

Before treatment, the surface must be cleaned of all substances that impair the interaction between the wall and the mixture (fats, dust, salts, dirt stains). Only after that, the finishing plaster for outdoor work will hold well. In the future, the features of the work depend on the type of plaster mixtures used.

A mortar for exterior plaster, which contains cement and / or lime, is applied in several layers in layers. The first layer after spraying is overwritten. Then a thicker layer is applied (also leveled), which plays the role of a primer. The top layer is applied last, it is the thinnest, and then it is not overwritten.

Silicone and acrylic mixtures are applied to the TechnoNIKOL primer with a thin layer (no more than 5 mm). Also, if the plaster is applied to the foam during insulation, reinforcement in the form of a fiberglass mesh is used. Application in several layers is not applicable here.

The price of external plastering does not differ significantly depending on the types of plaster used, usually only the amount of work is taken into account.

Warm exterior plaster is also installed on a reinforcing mesh or a special plaster mesh. If external plaster is used on foam plastic, a special mixture should be used.

At the same time, it can be two-part and include both an adhesive component and a protective coating for foam plastic (depending on the manufacturer).

Decorative plaster outside the house is installed according to a similar principle. As a rule, an acrylic plaster mixture with a different surface texture is used, but this does not affect the complexity of the work.

Important: plaster mixtures based on gypsum are not used when carrying out external finishing facade works.

The price of external wall plaster on average ranges from 200-250 rubles / m 2 without taking into account the cost of the material. Prices for exterior plastering work may differ depending on the region - in large cities the minimum bar is usually higher, especially if a high-quality result is required - from 300-350 rubles per "square".

Features of the work (video)

When building external walls, as well as leveling or cladding facades, mortars are used that are characterized by certain properties. Dry mortars for outdoor work and water resistance contain special additives that increase the effectiveness of protecting various surfaces from precipitation and temperature changes, as well as from the destruction of the structure of materials under the influence of ultraviolet radiation or for other reasons.

Features of building mixtures

The main advantage of dry compositions relative to self-mixing solutions is the stable ratio of components and their relative purity. This is a guarantee of support for a given brand of the finished mixture. Additives, in turn, purposefully improve the technical characteristics of the masonry or facing mortar and reduce the consumption of the binder. Compositions for plastering, for example, should have increased adhesion and have plasticity, and mixtures for pouring floors should spread without leaving sagging.

An important factor is the possibility of batch preparation of the composition for the required amount of work. Material losses, in this case, are minimized due to the fact that there is practically no unused solution. Bags with dry mixes are neatly stored. Bulk material is easily mixed using a mixing attachment inserted into a conventional drill. At the same time, it does not need any preliminary sifting.

Requirements for mixtures for outdoor use

External surfaces are treated with moisture-, frost- and heat-resistant compounds. The hardened solution must have:

certain plasticity;
permissible vapor permeability;
impact resistance;
strong adhesion to the base.

Heating as a result of the direct action of sunlight should not lead to softening of the frozen layer or destruction of its structure, and under the influence of ultraviolet - to color fading.

Lime and gypsum compositions are not recommended for outdoor use.

Types of building mixtures for exterior decoration

The mixtures used for plastering facades are conventionally divided into several groups:

mineral;
polymeric - anhydrous or water-based;
silicate;
silicone.

The mineral compositions include traditional cement-sand mixtures. Additives are introduced into them that increase the resistance of the applied layer to moisture, temperature changes, and also improve the frost resistance of the coating. Mineral plaster has a high vapor permeability, allowing the walls to "breathe", and the owners to forget about the appearance of condensate. The advantages of cement mixtures include their low cost, good coloring and fire safety. But, at the same time, mineral plaster does not adhere well to perfectly flat surfaces, has low elasticity and insufficient hydrophobicity.

Polymer mixtures diluted with water are distinguished by good adhesion and optimal moisture resistance. The treated surfaces are not afraid of ultraviolet radiation and are not prone to cracking, but acrylic and polyvinyl acetate compounds do not tolerate elevated temperatures well. The disadvantages of aqueous polymer mixtures include their rapid drying during the application process, as a result of which, if the work is performed in the wrong order, stains may appear at the joints of the plastered areas. Another disadvantage of such compositions is their "attractive power" in relation to dust and dirt, which accumulate on surfaces quickly enough. But this disadvantage is compensated by low absorption - a soiled wall can be easily washed with ordinary water.

Acrylic plasters are produced ready to use.

Polymer compositions with epoxy and polyurethane binders form a durable layer that can withstand mechanical and atmospheric influences. Mixtures have:

excellent adhesion to different materials;
hydrophobicity;
the possibility of creating facades in different colors;
incombustibility;
versatility.

With all the undeniable advantages, anhydrous-based polymer mixtures have a serious drawback. With a significant increase in temperature (more than 140 degrees), the layer of plaster begins to release toxic substances. This factor determines the scope of polyurethane and epoxy compositions.

In silicate mixtures for finishing work, there is liquid potassium glass. They are produced in a ready-to-use form, and their properties meet most of the requirements for building mixtures for outdoor use. The disadvantage of the finished coating is low vapor permeability and low elasticity, which contributes to the appearance of microcracks on the surface. Most often, silicate mixtures are used for walls made of cellular concrete and shell rock.

Silicone compounds are among the most expensive mixtures for outdoor use. Silicone gives the layer elasticity, and therefore, during operation, cracks and chips do not appear on the coating. Surfaces are able to self-clean in the rain, so the facades do not need to be washed. Plastered walls "breathe" due to the good vapor permeability of the layer, and do not get wet, as they have excellent moisture resistance. Mixtures can be applied to substrates of different quality and materials. For better adhesion, surfaces are pre-treated with appropriate primers.

By appointment, plaster mixtures for outdoor work are:

leveling;
decorative;
warming.

Leveling compounds are used, as a rule, as a basis for further facade finishing. With their help, seams and cracks are closed, shells and various kinds of bulges are smoothed out. At the same time, the leveling layer performs a protective function, protecting the surface from moisture and other negative phenomena.

Decorative plaster is intended to improve the appearance of the facade. A wide selection of textures allows you to implement various design ideas. The most original representatives of decorative mixtures for outdoor use are considered to be compositions such as "bark beetle" and "pebble" plaster. When applied, a structured surface is formed due to the presence of granular components.

As part of the "warm" plaster contains fillers with low thermal conductivity. These include:

paper;
cellulose;
cork crumb;
polystyrene granules, etc.

The heat-insulating mixture is applied in a thick layer. For greater reliability, in this case, a reinforcing mesh is applied to the wall.

Choice

When buying building mixtures, certain nuances should be taken into account, namely:

climatic features of a particular region;
the presence of complex structural elements - perhaps more plastic compositions will be required;
the need for additional wall insulation;
compliance with the requirements established by the manufacturer - temperature, humidity, etc.

When applying thick layers of plaster, care should be taken to purchase a reinforcing mesh. Building mixes need to be bought with a small margin, since in the process of work they can be overused for obvious reasons.

All plaster mixtures for outdoor use must meet two main criteria: high strength and durability. In most cases, the plastered facades of buildings are subsequently covered with various finishing materials. But there are also options for using plaster as a topcoat. In such cases, they can be made according to special recipes that allow obtaining the original appearance of facade walls without additional finishing.

Currently, manufacturers of building materials offer developers a huge range of dry plaster mixtures, it is possible to choose the best option. Due to innovative additives, mixtures have excellent performance, can be used on all types of buildings, etc. But all of them have two drawbacks.

Depending on the condition of the walls, the thickness of the plaster layer can exceed 3 cm, which significantly increases the need for materials. This is another reason not to use purchased materials.

Professionals consider it appropriate to use store mixes only in a few cases:

The composition of plaster mixtures for external works is selected taking into account their specific place of use. We will talk about the most commonly used cement-based materials. But there are cases when the restoration of buildings of an old building is carried out, in ancient times original mixtures were used, which are almost never used today. They do not have high performance by modern standards, but knowledge of the recipe can come in handy. In this regard, we will try to give the maximum list of materials.

Compound	Characteristics and use
	For plastering external surfaces, you need to take three parts of sand to one part of M400 cement. Depending on the condition of the surfaces, the amount of sand can be slightly increased or decreased. If the walls are very uneven and it is necessary to apply a lot of plaster in several layers, then for the first one you should make a “fat” mortar, and for the finishing amount of cement, slightly reduce. The "greasy" solution has improved adhesion to the wall, which eliminates the possibility of delamination, and the "lean" mass gives fewer cracks during the solidification of a thick layer. For the preparation of decorative solutions, stone chips, mineral dyes and special fillers can be added to the mass. How to do this, we will tell a little below. The cement mortar is suitable for universal use.
	The composition includes three parts of sand and one part of cement and lime. Due to the presence of lime, fungi and mosses do not grow on the surface of the walls, the solution has a bactericidal effect. Lime is pre-slaked. Such compositions are used in Eastern Europe for both external and internal work. In terms of physical characteristics, it is slightly inferior to cement-sand mixtures, but in terms of performance it surpasses them. In addition, due to the use of lime, the cost of the material is reduced.
	Currently, it is used very rarely for outdoor work and mainly for the restoration of old buildings in some southern regions of our country. To reduce the thermal conductivity, crushed straw is added to the solution.

Regardless of the composition, there are several general recommendations for all mixtures.

Use only river sand. If there is clay in it, then the amount of cement should be increased.
The prepared cement mixture should not delaminate for at least half an hour. If water appeared on top of the bucket earlier than the specified period, then this means that there is not enough cement in the solution. Add it and mix the whole mass again.
If the solution is very liquid, then sand must be added to increase the density, and not cement. It is desirable that the sand is dry. Cement absorbs liquids very little, to increase the density it will have to be added a lot.
Among builders there is the concept of "fatty" solution. To obtain it, you need to increase the amount of cement by at least 30%. "Fatty" solutions are distinguished by increased mechanical strength, quickly harden, are not afraid of prolonged direct exposure to water, perfectly connect to surfaces. The disadvantage is an increase in cost and a high probability of cracking during solidification.
Use the mixer for mixing only to prepare a small amount of the solution. Professional builders do not use such a tool, its performance is too low. To prepare a solution for one wall, you will have to work with a mixer for several days. This "technology" is used only by amateurs.

How to prepare a decorative cement plaster mixture by hand

If you want to prepare multi-colored plaster with the addition of mineral dyes, then you definitely need to buy white cement. True, if a bag of 50 kg of an ordinary one costs around 200 rubles, then the price of white is about 500 rubles for the same bag.

Practical advice. There is a way to further reduce the cost of a recipe for making colored plaster. Do not add dyes, but select the color by using different sand. Depending on the location of the quarry, it can be from white to yellow or grayish. Accordingly, the plaster will be the same color. By the way, sand never burns out; in terms of color stability, no even the most expensive mineral dyes can be compared with it. Of course, you need white cement.

For example, we will consider the option of manual preparation of bark beetle plaster. For finishing facade walls, this is one of the most acceptable and beautiful options.

The texture of the plaster "bark beetle"

Step 1. Prepare a place and tools for kneading. You can knead on a ready-made even concrete base, if it is not there, then use pieces of sheet iron. For work you will need a shovel and a container for water.

Step 2 Prepare materials. Due to the fact that we make bark beetle plaster, there is no need to sift the sand. The solution is prepared in the following proportions: cement - one part, sand - three parts, stone chips - one part.

If you need a lot of mortar for work, then store the materials in the immediate vicinity of the mixing site.

Step 3 Throw sand on a pile, add stone chips and cement on top. No one measures material with buckets, consider shovels. For kneading, you need to have shovels.

Practical advice. Properly organize the workplace, it will greatly speed up and facilitate the kneading process. It is better to throw a bag of cement on a large pile of sand, cut the package in half with a shovel and take it directly from the halves of the bag. Do not worry that he will wake up a little, then pick him up along with the sand.

Keep in mind that from one bag of cement weighing 50 kg, approximately 0.25 m3 of mortar is obtained. One bag has approximately 15 medium shovels. This knowledge will make it easier for you to calculate during the mixing of the solution. This means that about 45 shovels of sand and 10-15 shovels of stone chips should be taken per bag of cement. It is quite difficult to prepare such a large batch by hand, practitioners recommend using half a bag of cement at a time. The amount of sand and crumbs is proportionally reduced.

Water is a little more difficult, its volume largely depends on the moisture content of the sand. If you have it in an open area and got caught in the rain, then the amount of water may decrease by a third. It is impossible to give exact recommendations, determine the need as the batch is prepared. To begin with, pour about 4 buckets into half a bag of cement, then you will orient yourself as you work.

Step 4 Throw a bunch of material first in one place, and then back to the center of the site. If its dimensions do not allow you to transfer the entire amount at once, then break it into two parts. During the transfer, the components are not mixed very thoroughly, but this is not a problem. In the future, the ingredients are placed evenly throughout the volume.

Step 5 Make a hole in the middle of the pile, it should be quite large. Make sure that there is always a shaft of dry mortar around, it does not allow water to flow out during kneading.

Step 6 Pour water into the hole and start kneading.

To do this, gradually mix the dry mixture with water in small portions and overturn with a shovel. Move in a circle, the dimensions of the protective shaft should always be approximately the same around the entire perimeter of the hole. Sand with cement can be taken both from the middle of the hole and from the edges. The main thing is not to make a hole through which water will leave. If the solution is thick, then add a little water.

Step 7 When the dry mix is low, increase the mixing speed. Cover areas with very thin mortar with dry sand and mix immediately.

It is not necessary to achieve one hundred percent uniformity, additional mixing will occur during the set of mortar in the container before plastering and during the plastering of surfaces.

Practical advice. In order to find out exactly how much stone chips are needed, it is recommended to make a small test batch. Then plaster a small section of the wall with the mortar and make a pattern. If there are few “bark beetle moves”, add crumbs.

How to make a "warm" solution

This material is very popular in recent years due to the desire of homeowners to reduce heat loss. To reduce the thermal conductivity, not ordinary sand should be added to the solution, but perlite filler.

For one part of cement, you can give 5 parts of filler, if you need to make the mass stronger, then increase the amount of cement. Water, as always, is added as needed.

Important. When working with dry perlite, protective masks must be used. Many builders ignore this requirement, but in vain.

Step 1. Measure out the right amount of perlite. This is a fairly expensive material, do not overspend. It is recommended that you first find out the entire volume needed for one batch and prepare one large container for it. In the future, make a small hole in a plastic bag and carefully fill it. Avoid heavy dusting, keep the bag as low as possible above the container.

Step 2 Turn on the concrete mixer and pour water.

It is advisable to pre-measure its quantity. The fact is that this filler absorbs much more water than sand. If you need to prepare a large amount of the solution, then all the proportions of the ingredients for one batch must be remembered and not experimented every time.

Step 3 Add a special soapy resin to the water, if it is not available, then liquid soap is also suitable at the rate of approximately 100-150 ml per concrete mixer with a volume of 0.25 m3. Dilute the soap a little with water, you need to lather it. You need about 2.5 buckets of water. Do not pour more, otherwise the perlite will rise up and not get wet.

Practical advice. Never pour completely dry perlite into a concrete mixer, soak it in a container first. To do this, pour water into it, add perlite and mix with a shovel until a mushy state is obtained. The mass is considered ready after the perlite stops dusting during stirring.

Step 4 Throw wet perlite into a concrete mixer¸ if it sticks to the walls, then add water.

Only a little, otherwise problems will arise later - by adding perlite, the excess cannot be removed. The fact is that dry perlite will float on top and will not be able to absorb moisture. You will have to mix it again by hand and only then add it to the mixer.

Step 5 After the perlite has become homogeneous, start adding cement. Pour it in small portions, do not allow the formation of balls. It is very difficult to get rid of them later. If the mortar is planned to be used for plastering some wall surfaces, then increase the amount of cement. Constantly monitor the consistency, add water as needed.

Practice shows that, despite all efforts, it is not possible to completely avoid sticking of perlite with cement to the walls of the concrete mixer. It is necessary to stop the concrete mixer, gently clean the walls of adhering material with a trowel and mix it a little with the ready-made material inside the barrel.

Step 6 At the last stage of preparing the mixture, add sand. As the concrete mixer fills, increase its angle of inclination. Keep in mind that the greater the angle of inclination, the worse the mixing process.

If the mixture sticks to the walls again, then you need to periodically stop the mixer and clean its walls. There are situations when the mass in the middle of the volume of the mixer is normal, but liquid on the sides. Stop the mechanism, select two or three buckets of mass from the middle, tilt the agitator and turn it on again. In this position, the mass is better mixed. Everything is fine - add the removed mass again, tilt the agitator and turn on the engine.

It is more difficult to prepare such a solution than ordinary cement-sand, this must be understood and not be afraid of the first difficulties. Some professionals advise adding slaked lime to the solution, we consider this an optional condition. The fact is that perlite itself inhibits the development of microflora and no additional ingredients are required. But the final decision is yours. There is a desire and opportunities - add lime.

Where is it better to do the mass, in a concrete mixer or a mortar mixer?

First you need to tell how the mortar mixer differs from the concrete mixer.

The main element is a rotating drum, to the walls of which the blades are welded.

Advantages- versatility. Concrete and sand solutions can be prepared in a concrete mixer.

Flaw- the quality of mixing does not always meet the required parameters. To improve, you have to significantly lengthen the process. Another disadvantage of a concrete mixer. During the preparation of the solution, as the container is filled, it must be constantly raised (reduce the angle of inclination), and the principle of operation of the unit is such that the greater the angle of inclination, the better the solution is mixed. Accordingly, if a lot of mortar needs to be prepared in one batch, then the concrete mixer must be periodically partially released, the angle increased and the remaining mortar mixed. This takes time and energy. Mortar mixers do not have such a disadvantage.

Mortar mixer

The body is circular in shape and stands motionless. Blades rotate inside the body. The advantage is excellent mixing quality, cement and sand lumps are completely broken. The disadvantage is that concrete cannot be prepared in a mortar mixer. The fact is that large fractions of crushed stone fall into the gap between the rotating blades and the fixed bottom. The mechanism jams, which causes the electric motor to burn out.

Water is first poured into all mechanisms, and only then dry materials are added.

Cement should only be poured into water or a very liquid solution. If this is not done, then balls will roll in the concrete mixer, it is almost impossible to completely break them. This does not apply to the mortar mixer, it does not create such problems.

After completion of work, be sure to thoroughly wash the units. It is strictly forbidden to beat off the hardened solution with a sledgehammer or crowbar. During such procedures, irregularities appear on the body, and then an increased amount of mass will accumulate in them. Negative processes are developing on the rise.

Video - How to quickly wash a concrete mixer

When connecting the equipment, be sure to comply with the requirements of the EMP, you work in constant contact with water, which greatly increases the risk of electric shock.

Never attempt to clean the surfaces of the agitators while they are rotating as this can cause very serious injury.

We told only two recipes for preparing mixtures for outdoor work. If you master them, then any changes in the recipe and technology will not be any difficulties.

Video - Manual preparation of plaster mortar

Facade plaster for outdoor work is responsible not only for the aesthetic appearance of the house. It also acts as an additional protection of the walls from various atmospheric manifestations, such as: water, wind and UV radiation. There are a lot of options for mixtures today, for different types of surfaces and conditions of use.

The plaster of the house on the outside is made using a silicone compound

Note: there is another variety - decorative silicate-silicone external plasters. The binder here is composite, from copolymers of silicones and a dispersion of potassium silicates. In terms of performance, this finish for outdoor use is very close to silicone.

Varieties of textures of decorative facade finishes for outdoor work

And now a little about what textures of external plasters are. Below are the options that can be purchased with all the decorative compositions described above.

bark beetle. The working mass includes stone grains of a certain fraction, the size of which determines the intensity of the relief on the wall surface. Due to these grains, a textured surface is created, similar in pattern to a tree spent by a wood borer.
Lamb. The filler contains stone grains of various sizes, which gives a decorative soft-hilly surface.
Fur coat . Here the relief depends rather not on the characteristics of the filler in the working mass, but on the application technique.
Pebble, or groats. The composition contains a large number of large stone grains of the same size. The surface is finely rough.
Mosaic, with decorative stone. Unlike all the textures described, it comes only in acrylic and silicone formulations. The binder in such plasters is transparent, the surface looks like densely laid out stone chips.

Types of decorative textures for outdoor decoration

Front plaster for external works. How to choose the right mixture

Of great importance is the compatibility of one or another type of decorative plaster with the surface on which it is to be applied. The durability of the exterior finish directly depends on these parameters. So, cement compositions fit well on a wall of any quality. The only condition is that if the work goes on top of the insulation, a preliminary installation of a plaster mesh will be required.

Stability based on various factors. Each of the decorative mixtures is good in some ways, but in some ways it loses to the others. For example, acrylic perfectly withstands mechanical stress, but is prone to color fading. But if you plan to repaint the facade every couple of years, then this moment can be considered insignificant. That is, it is necessary not only to compare the qualities of plaster for the facade - which one is better, but also to evaluate its priority for yourself.

How to choose facade plaster for outdoor use: cement compositions are the most unpretentious

Note:when choosing, the covering power of the working mass should also be taken into account. Plaster mixtures in the work are divided into thick-layer and thin-layer. The former include cement and silicate decorative compositions, the latter - acrylic and silicone. Thin-layer options are the most demanding on the base on which they will be applied.

The technology of applying facade plasters for outdoor work on different surfaces. Consumption

In most cases, exterior finishes are applied to walls in the same way, as described in the next paragraph. The exception is the so-called "complex" surfaces - timber walls, OSB, chipboard and foam insulated.

Finishing facades made of aerated concrete and surfaces with a layer of leveling reinforced coating

It is easiest to apply plaster mixtures to aerated concrete blocks and bricks. Apart from the usual leveling and adhesive primer application, no wall preparation is required. Additional work will be required when using thin-layer materials. In this case, you will have to use a roller to process the walls with a coloring primer, in the color of the future plaster of the facade.

Exterior facade finishing works

Manual application process step by step:

Dry plaster for outdoor use is diluted with water in the required proportions, mixed well. Full readiness will come after 10-15 minutes of settling.
If necessary, we tint the prepared volume.
We scoop up the mass with a spatula and spread it on the lower edge of a wide trowel.
We apply a trowel with a solution to the wall almost perpendicularly, reducing the angle during the movement of the tool almost to full parallel.

Works on stretching pebble decorative plaster for outdoor use

Almost without pressure, we drive the trowel along the wall, stretching the decorative plaster to a layer of the desired thickness.
Having passed an area of about 1.5 m 2, we take a plastic grater and rub the surface until the desired texture is formed.

Repeat steps 3, 4, 5 and 6 until the entire façade is finished. Below is a visual description of the process.

Do-it-yourself plastering of external walls. Bark beetle trim video:

Note: it is best to work immediately by area, and not by square meters. So the finished coating will turn out to be uniform in texture. If the planned areas cannot be finished at once, the connecting seams should be drawn up using masking tape.

Facade plaster bark beetle, application technology. On the video you can see the process of organizing a connecting seam between areas processed at different times.

Exterior plastering on expanded polystyrene / polystyrene foam and mineral wool

Both of these materials form surfaces that are difficult to finish, so it will require preliminary installation of a facade mesh for plastering. The first mistake that is usually made when reinforcing insulation is applying adhesive only on top of the membrane. It will be correct like this:

We apply a special adhesive to the surface, immediately to an area of 1.5-2 m 2. We take a segment of the grid in our hands and fix it in the corners with small thin sticks.

Styrofoam plaster. Facade work requires the installation of a reinforcing mesh

We take in our hands a wide (from 30 cm) trowel and with a little pressure we draw it along the grid, in different directions. The adhesive will show through, almost hiding the reinforcing membrane underneath.

Works on preparing the facade for decorative exterior decoration

The edge of the mesh for plastering the facade, hanging on the base, is bent down and glued with the same composition. For processing the bend, it is better to use a spatula with a surface folded into a triangle. So we pass all the walls of the house. After the glue dries, apply it again, already on top of the mesh.

Processing the bottom edge of the reinforcing mesh

Next comes the priming of the surface and coating it with decorative compounds for outdoor use. The process of finishing plastering is exactly the same as for aerated concrete walls, so we will not repeat it. The whole pie looks like this:

Applying plaster to wood walls

Plastering framed exterior walls on wood - timber, chipboard and OSB - involves two options for work. The first is exactly the same technology as when decorating walls with foam plastic, given above. The second one will be like this:

The outer surface of the facades is covered with construction paper, which will enhance the protection of the base from atmospheric manifestations. It can be attached with a construction stapler.

Before starting all work, the wooden facade is covered with construction paper.

Note:the tree is very hygroscopic, and the facade can “lead” from the moisture contained in the working mass. To avoid this, it is necessary to use special hydrophobic primers and wood impregnations for outdoor work.

A metal large-mesh facade mesh for plaster is mounted on top of the paper. It can be fixed with the same stapler. The slope of the canvas and the degree of its fit to the outer side of the facade depends on the evenness of the latter.

Reinforcing plaster work

In this case, the plaster layer will be quite thick, so an aluminum limiter profile is attached along the bottom edge of the grid.

The lower edge of the mesh for reinforcing the facade of OSB

The first layer of reinforcing exterior plaster should be such that it almost hides the mesh underneath. After drying, we apply a second layer on the facade - leveling. Fine finishing works are carried out in the manner described for gas silicate concrete.

Reinforcing facade finishing works

Consumption of working mixture for facades

The consumption of external plasters per 1m2 depends on several factors at once. This is the nature of the filler, binder, type and evenness of the base. On packages with working materials, data are provided taking into account the specified criteria. The average numbers will be:

Acrylic - from 1.5 to 3.0 kg / m 2.
Silicone - from 2.5 to 3.9 kg / m 2.
Mineral - from 2.5 to 4 kg / m 2.

Note: when calculating the amount of working material, it is necessary to add 5% for working losses. So you do not have to buy additional plaster mix, which is fraught with delays in work and the difference between different batches in color.

Exterior decoration of the building is a responsible job. Among the possible options for its execution, plastering is very common and in demand.

In order for the resulting coating to be durable, aesthetically attractive, plaster mixtures for outdoor use must meet the requirements for resistance to environmental influences.

Nowadays, a large selection of mixtures is available, allowing you to realize various options in the design. Obtaining an excellent result will also depend on the quality of the facade work.

What requirements must be met by plaster for outdoor work?

Outdoor mixes must be weather resistant

The plaster coating outside and inside the building is in significantly different conditions. Indoors, stable climatic indicators (temperature, humidity) in any season of the year.

The facade is constantly exposed to all sorts of weather adversities: showers, strong winds, temperature changes (even during the day).

At the same time, he must withstand them, protect the walls and insulation.

The requirements that plaster for outdoor work must meet are discussed in the table.

Required property	Description	What provides
increased adhesion	the applied solution adheres well to the work surface	the coating does not peel off from the base
hydrophobicity	the plaster layer does not absorb moisture, does not collapse under its influence	increases the protection of the base from water
plastic	sufficient viscosity makes it easy to smooth the solution over the surface when applied	hides unevenness and wall defects
frost resistance (resistance to temperature changes)	the composition withstands at least thirty cycles of "freezing - defrosting"	reduces the force of temperature effects on the surface covered with it
increase in the degree of sound insulation	reduces the level of incoming noise	contributes to the establishment of a comfortable sound background

In addition to the above qualities, the advantage is the possibility of applying plaster on insulation materials, ensuring their protection.

The result of application depends not only on the specified properties. It is determined by a number of factors: the quality of the mortar used and the preparation of the base, the weather conditions during the performance of work, the technology used, and the experience of the worker.

Mixtures used for facade finishing

Finishing with plaster "bark beetle"

The plastering of the house outside is carried out with compositions on a different basis. The table shows its classification depending on the main component.

View	Compound	Properties and characteristics
mineral	combinations of cement, sand, lime, plasticizers	mechanical strength, water resistance, relatively long service life of the coating (up to 10 years with crack repairs); insufficient plasticity is compensated by the addition of plasticizers; penetrates deep into the base, which strengthens the wall additionally; good breathability; lower price compared to polymeric materials; disadvantage - a small selection of colors;
acrylic	water-soluble polymer resins, biocidal additives	elastic; resistant to temperature extremes and ultraviolet rays; additives prevent the formation of fungal mold and the reproduction of microorganisms; service life - not less than 15 years, and under normal conditions - up to 25; high strength (cracks do not appear); accumulates static electricity, attracts dust, but does not absorb dirt; work on applying the mortar should be done quickly, because it seizes almost immediately;
silicate	liquid glass	provides waterproofing; plasticity is average; well passes air; during solidification, cracks often form; due to ongoing chemical reactions, it strengthens the base; wet - changes color, drying - restores; when applying, you need to work quickly, use a silicate primer;
silicone	silicone "resin"	high price; environmentally friendly, durable composition; used in exterior and interior decoration; an extensive selection of colors and their increased resistance to sunlight; has antistatic and dirt-repellent properties; ease of use; increased adhesion to the bearing base; the work requires the use of expensive silicone primer
decorative	acrylic dispersions, epoxy resins, polyurethanes	resistant to environmental influences; has an attractive appearance; high price; applied in a layer up to 5 mm; requires perfect wall alignment before use;

According to the goals that need to be achieved with the help of plaster, the mixture is divided into starting, finishing. The existing cracks and seams are sealed first, and primary alignment is performed.

The second serves to obtain an external coating that simultaneously performs protective, decorative functions (they are common "Bark beetle", "Fur coat").

Most mixtures are used for both purposes. In order to save money, it is preferable to use separate starting and finishing compositions from the same manufacturer.

For aerated concrete blocks, use vapor-permeable mixtures

The plaster mixture for outdoor work is selected taking into account a number of indicators. The main ones are: the wall material and existing defects, the age of the building, its location relative to the sun.

for cellular concrete, plaster compositions with high vapor permeability should be used: silicate solutions are the best option;
structural compositions are best used for long-term surface finishing, because they serve for many years, and are difficult to dismantle;
on the sunny side, the facades should be covered with plaster of light shades: this is due to the resistance of the coating to the preservation of the original color, with different levels of light reflection (heat absorption) on dark and light surfaces;
restoration of the walls of old buildings is best done with silicate, silicone solutions;
fine-grained plaster is performed with acrylic mixtures, and cement should be discarded in this case. For more information about plastering the facade, see this video:

The leading brands of plaster today are Kreps, Knauf, Bolars, Ceresit. At the same time, mineral-based materials (cement, sand, lime) are the cheapest and most common, while silicone materials are the most expensive and versatile. Sand-cement and cement-lime compositions can be made by hand. But they will be significantly inferior to ready-made ones.

Before plastering a house, you should choose the right mixture based on your budget, the operating conditions of the coating. For outdoor use, a number of special plaster mixtures are used.

They differ in their characteristics, allow you to create both a rough coating and a decorative final layer. The recommendations outlined, taking into account the properties of the compositions, allow anyone who wishes to independently choose a working material for their own purposes.

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