Trough for mixing concrete. How to prepare high-quality concrete? Types of concrete by purpose

Publication date: 21-12-2013, 17:19

Many home craftsmen suffer from the fact that they do not have a full container for mixing the solution. Most use small troughs, in which you can hardly fill even a couple of buckets of sand, although in reality everyone has the opportunity to make a large container on their own and at the same time there will be no need to cut metal barrels, much less buy anything, of course, if everything is needed for construction "ingredients" are available.

So, in order to build a container, you will need a wide and long sheet of tin, nails and an edged board. More specifically, a sheet of tin should be about 100x170 cm in size. As for the board, you need a board at least 6 m long. It is important to clarify here that you need a thick board of at least forty.

First you need to measure and saw off two long boards of 170 cm each, and then two short boards of 1 m each. After that, you need to knock them into a box. Then you will need to lay a sheet of tin on top of the box so that it covers the entire space and nail it. If there is a little tin left around the edges, it can be bent. It is necessary to nail thoroughly so that the tin fits snugly against the board, otherwise water will flow out of the trough.

The result is a strong, voluminous and, most importantly, a lightweight tank for mixing the solution.

You will need a concrete trough at the initial stage of construction, for example, when installing a temporary fence, or building a change house. After all, while there is nothing at all on the site, including electricity, then it is this capacity that will help you knead the concrete mixture.

How to make a trough for concrete?

To make a trough, we need the following materials:

• Galvanized steel sheet, 1 mm thick and 100x200 cm in size. Its cost is approximately $ 10.
• Pine boards, 20 or 30 mm thick. They need to be sawn so that two boards of a meter length and two boards of a two-meter length are obtained.
• Nails and screws to fasten boards and sheets into a single structure.

First you need to prepare two two-meter boards. The edges must be trimmed, as shown in the diagram.

Now we nail the galvanized steel sheet to these prepared boards, bending the edges. Next, we fasten meter boards on self-tapping screws.

So that the nails do not lick over time, we additionally strengthen the entire structure with self-tapping screws.

Due to the fact that they drank on long boards, they have a semicircular shape, short boards, tightly fitting on top, form a kind of handles below, for which you can easily carry a trough for concrete.

After the first kneading, the trough will become practically airtight due to the filling of the cracks with concrete mortar, which will harden over time and will not let water through.

Hello dear friends.

Any small building can never do without foundation. Whether it is a columnar or strip foundation, the main components for them are steel reinforcement and concrete. Thanks to these two materials, real masterpieces of architectural construction are currently being created that can withstand hurricanes, earthquakes and heavy loads.

In the modern world, there are a huge number of machines that make it easier to work with concrete, but since we do everything ourselves and with our own hands, we do not need to build five hundred meter structures, we need a small amount of concrete, then we will knead it manually.

Today I want to talk about how to knead concrete with my own hands, with a minimum of effort.

Even as a child, I remember my grandfather always told me: “Vlad, in any business you need certain skills, abilities and a certain order in work, only then can the job be done quickly and efficiently.”

After that, he gave me an example about two diggers, one had been doing this work for 20 years, and the second was a “novice student”. They began to dig two identical holes side by side. So, the trainee spent three times more time on work than the teacher.

Do you know why? A person who has devoted so much time to this profession already intuitively knows at what angle to insert a shovel into the ground, how to throw the earth out of the pit with a minimum of effort and getting the maximum result, and many other secrets.

In my construction practice, I often had to deal with the construction of the foundation with my own hands, and this, respectively, with the work of mixing concrete. Honestly, I confess to you, as soon as it came to mixing concrete with my own hands, it was a “sharp knife” for me.

And in one of these “unfortunate” cases for me, I remembered what my grandfather told me in childhood. The thought arose, probably, I really knead the concrete incorrectly, I use the wrong technology that people use. Why is it so hard for me to do this job?

Having rummaged through the Internet, and having read the available literature, I still did not understand what the main secret is. And then, a housemate brought four KAMAZ trucks of sand, four KAMAZ trucks of crushed stone, an ordinary metal bath and invited 4 workers from sunny Tajikistan to work.

At first, I didn’t even believe my eyes that he wanted to cast a foundation for a house 10 * 10 meters with such forces. Until recently, I did not believe that this was possible.

You know, I was deeply mistaken. A week later, to my surprise, the foundation was cast.

It was here that I borrowed the technology of how to knead concrete with a saving of 40% of effort.

So, I’m telling you how concrete is prepared with your own hands using the example of one bath.

Step-by-step instructions: how to knead concrete with your own hands and in what proportions

We will make concrete from M500 cement, so the proportions for preparing concrete will be as follows: 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand, 4 parts of crushed stone, 1 part of water. For convenience, we will take one bucket for one part.

Step 1. Pour two buckets of water into the container. Additional water may need to be added depending on the moisture content of the sand.

Step 2 Pour 2 buckets of cement into the water (without a hillock). In principle, 4 buckets are placed in a 50 kg bag, i.e. pour half a bag of cement.

During backfilling, we constantly stir the mixture of water and cement until a homogeneous liquid mass is obtained.

Step 3 Constantly stirring, we fall asleep six buckets of sand.

We bring the state of the mixture to a homogeneous consistency. After the introduction of the last bucket, the mixture becomes difficult to interfere, but tolerable.

Step 4 We introduce eight buckets of crushed stone into the resulting mixture.

It is necessary to pour crushed stone not in one place, but evenly distributing it over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe container in which the batch is made. After each bucket, mix the resulting concrete.

After the introduction of the last eighth bucket and thorough mixing, our concrete is ready to be poured into the formwork.

I kneaded the concrete with a shovel, but the guys at the neighbor mixed it together from different sides. Moreover, one kneads concrete with a shovel, the second with an ordinary garden hoe.

I tell you honestly, as if in spirit, you spend 40% less effort than when using any other method.

And those who advise mixing all the ingredients dry, before adding water, probably never tried to make concrete with their own hands and know the whole technology of how to knead concrete only in theory.

When mixing dry mix it is very difficult to lift and mix it, especially from the bottom of the concrete tank after adding water.

I hope that after reading the article to the end, now you can save a lot of effort when making concrete with your own hands. In the same way, you can knead the solution with your own hands for surface plastering, for laying bricks or for surface cladding with natural stone.

: how to knead concrete with your own hands

All light and fast construction projects. Good luck building.

Best regards, Ponomarev Vladislav.

• Ulyana Tarasova
• print

Source: https://legkovmeste.ru/poleznye-sovety/beton-svoimi-rukami.html

New horizons: do-it-yourself concrete

Despite all the advantages of using ready-made purchased concrete, very often builders have to mix cement mortar or concrete with their own hands directly at the construction site.

The actual use of concrete mixed with one's own hands happens when it is necessary to pour a small reinforced concrete structure, make a local screed on the floor, a path in the yard, and steps for the stairs.

When is the best time to do it yourself?

As a rule, it is necessary to apply and prepare concrete with your own hands in the following cases:

1. When you need to mix a small amount of mortar, for example, for the floor in the garage. The minimum delivery of the factory mixture is equal to a volume of 5 m3. In this case, ordering the finished mixture will be irrational or even impossible.
2. When construction work on pouring concrete is carried out at intervals, gradually. This is the case when it is problematic to simultaneously fill the required volumes with concrete mortar. For example, when pouring complex multi-tiered reinforced concrete structures, single crossbars or pile-beam foundations for houses.
3. When transport delivery to the object on a concrete mixer truck or concrete pump is difficult. The reason for this may be the roadway, unsuitable for the passage of trucks, or in the case when construction is carried out on an old building.
4. When the construction is located far enough from the concrete plant and its delivery, taking into account transportation, will be significantly more expensive, it will be more profitable to make concrete with your own hands and in the required volume.

Types of concrete by purpose

According to their purpose, concretes are divided into the following types:

1. Constructive. The standard composition of the concrete mix, which is used for reinforced concrete and concrete load-bearing structures, such as slabs, floor panels, columns, foundations.
2. Special. These are chemically resistant, heat-insulating, decorative and heat-resistant concrete compositions. Refractory concrete is resistant to temperature extremes and does not lose its refractory qualities when heated. High-quality heat-resistant concrete, as a rule, is used in the construction of fireplaces, chimneys of furnaces, both in residential construction and in industrial construction. Heat-resistant concrete, prepared according to all requirements, will provide reliable protection and a high degree of safety at very high temperatures.
3. Straining or concrete polymers. This heavy-duty concrete is used in the construction of bridges, military bunkers, subway walls or high-rise buildings.

Required Components and Tools

Cement is the main component of concrete, it is usually used under grade 500 or 400. There are grades from 100 to 600, in increments of 100. This figure indicates the strength of cement, which ranges from 10 to 60 MPa.

That is, cement after 28 days, at the time of final hardening, will have the compressive strength indicated on the package, in MPa. It is better to use this component fresh, as it loses its qualities during long storage.

The maximum shelf life of cement is up to one year, after which it will need to be disposed of.

In order to prepare concrete with your own hands, for example, for a foundation, you will also need the following components: sand, crushed stone and water. Sand is recommended to use quarry. It will definitely need to be sifted from all sorts of debris. And crushed stone will be needed as a concrete aggregate.

Expanded clay, slag and other porous aggregates are suitable for lightweight concrete. For "lean" concrete, which is used as a screed for the floor in the garage, aggregates are not used. It is possible, depending on the conditions and technological requirements, to apply additives or additives at will.

Water is added to the required density according to the proportion.

Thus, the main components of concrete during mixing have the following proportions - 1/3/5. That is, 3 parts of sand and 5 parts of crushed stone are taken for one part of cement.

Multiply the length of the structure by the width of the structure, then multiply by the height of the cover. The result is the volume of concrete. With a coating height of 0.1 m with a structure length of 10 m and a width of 1 m, 1 m3 of concrete will be required.

In this case, the volume of water will be equal to the weight of cement divided in half, that is, for example, 25 liters of water will be required for 50 kg of cement. Water should be added gradually, observing the proportions.

From the tools you will need the following set:

1. Container for stirring the solution - a trough.
2. A container for water, other bulk components and the solution itself for carrying it to an object, for example, a bucket.
3. Shovel and sand sieve.
4. A hammer to beat the hardened mortar from the walls of the trough and to crush the caked cement.
5. Scales, if the solution will be prepared not by volume, but by weight.

Mortar preparation

Manual mixing of a building mixture or concrete mortar consists of the following steps:

1. A pile of sand is poured onto clean floors or into a special container for building mixture, and in the case of concrete - sand and gravel.
2. Observing the required proportions, cement is added to the sand, which is then thoroughly mixed with a shovel into a homogeneous mass.
3. Having made a slide from the resulting mass, we make a recess for water on top, it must be added to the composition in a small volume, observing the proportions. Then the dry edges are poured into the center to the water and mixed until a homogeneous mass.

Using an electric concrete mixer will allow you to perform this procedure much faster, as well as prepare the most homogeneous solution.

With the help of a concrete mixer, you can do a lot more work on mixing concrete.

It has been established that high-quality concrete is possible only if the exact proportions are observed. Of course, its brand depends on the quality of the components used. Good luck!

Source: http://TvoyGarazh.ru/materialy/beton-svoimi-rukami.html

Bucket for concrete. Bricklayer's box. Container for mortar

OWN PRODUCTION.

We carry out orders for production solution containers!
By drawings customer.

Price list:

TR-0.1 st 2.0mm	100	250	940	650	340	15	1500r.
YAR-1(trough)* REINFORCED	250	630	1340	600	410	55	3900r.
TR-0.25 boat st 2.0mm	250	570	1300	830	414	53	4200r.
TR-0.35 boat st 2.0mm	350	700	1430	930	445	75	4750r.
TR-0.5 boat st 2.0mm	500	1200	1600	1030	500	93,9	7000r.
TR-0.5 scoop st 2.0mm	500	1250	1610	1100	590	80	8000r.
TR-1.0 scoop st 2.0mm	1000	2500	2240	1120	760	130	13000r.
TR-1.5 scoop st 2.0mm	1500	3750	2240	1320	1010	180	16800r.
TR-2.0 scoop st 2.0mm	2000	5000	2240	1620	1010	195	19600r.
* YAR can be assembled into a garland up to 5 pieces, reinforced eyes (circle d=20)
TR-0.25 boat st 2.5mm	250	630	1310	670	600	50	negotiable
TR-0.35 boat st 2.5mm	350	880	1570	780	600	60	negotiable
TR-0.5 boat st 2.5mm	500	1250	1610	850	730	95	negotiable
TR-1.0 scoop st 2.5mm	1000	2500	2080	1150	820	150	negotiable
TR-1.5 scoop st 2.5mm	1500	3750	2700	1250	820	220	negotiable
TR-2.0 scoop st 2.5 mm	2000	5000	2700	1350	950	255	negotiable
TR-3.0 scoop st 3.0mm	3000	7500	3250	1650	950	345	negotiable
TR-0,25 boat WINTER	250	630	1570	780	600	100
BP-1.0 with platform for vibrator	1000	2500	3170	1270	720	310	negotiable
BP-1.6 with platform for vibrator	1600	4000	3100	1270	1200	375	negotiable
BP-2.0 with platform for vibrator	2000	5000	3640	1270	1340	395	negotiable
BP-3.0 with platform for vibrator	2500	6250	4000	2100	1140	825	negotiable
BPU-3.0 universal	3000	7500	3200	2100	2100	825	negotiable
	At the request of the customer, two types of gates are available: one-jaw (gate) and two-jaw (grab)
BN/1500-0.5 tray	500	1250	1600	1600	1270	170	negotiable
BN/1500-0.75 tray	750	1880	1600	1600	1680	200	negotiable
BN/1500 -1.0 tray	1000	2500	1600	1600	1750	220	negotiable
BN-1.0-Pyramid	1000	2500	1600	1600	1660	200	negotiable
BN/1500-1.5 tray	1500	3750	1600	1600	2040	300	negotiable
BN/1500 -2.0 tray	2000	5000	1600	1600	2450	330	negotiable
BN/1500-3.0	3000	7500	1600	1600	2850	380	negotiable
It is possible to install trays (for unloading concrete) and cradles (platforms) for the operator, on any of the sides.
It is possible to manufacture a bucket for transportation by a front loader to the place of concrete laying.
Coloring: in any color at the request of the customer. Logo: Application of the customer's logo. Accessories for buckets of the series "BN - 0.5 / 1.0 / 1.5 / 2.0"
BN-0.5; 1.0	BN-1.5; 2.0
length mm	price	length mm	price
Cradle	eat/stats	9 600 rub.	12 000 rub.
Funnel D-200	1 260 rub.	1 380 rub.
Sleeve D-200	2000	on order	2000	on order
tray trough	1250	1 800 rub.	1500	1 920 rub.
tray cone	1250	1 800 rub.	1500	1 920 rub.
The tray is extended.	1500	2 040 rub.	1800	2 160 rub.

A container for concrete, which is also called a bucket, is a special collection for the mixture.

It is designed for storage and transportation of concrete, and depending on the purpose for which it is intended.

A container for concrete, which is also called a bucket, is a special collection for the mixture. It is intended for storage and transportation of concrete, and depending on the purpose for which it is intended, such containers can be made in the form of:

· A trough (boat or ladle) is a container in the form of a box, which is made of steel up to 2.5 mm thick. Such a bucket can be attached to a faucet using special welded loops.

· Glasses - a container in the shape of a cone, sometimes with an attached cylindrical cell, which is equipped with a support in the form of a ring. It is possible to transport cement in such a bucket only in a vertical position, and in order to carry out the procedure for unloading or supplying concrete, the container must additionally be equipped with a special tray.

Shoes - a container in the form of a rectangular box, which has a hole to release the mixture at the right time and a damper to prevent this in other cases.

Such bucket for concrete can be loaded in a horizontal position from the mixer, and then in a vertical position it is transported to the construction site.

The shoe-shaped container can be unloaded even without the use of vibrators, but in order to clean the tub, it is still worth using a vibrator. For this purpose, the design even provides a special platform.

Metal industrial containers YAT - 800 - 600 - 400 - 013M

Load capacity: 500kg.

Regardless of the form of construction in modern construction, tubs are indispensable equipment when working with concrete. To date, they are the best option for how cement slurry can be received, stored or conveniently transported.

A fairly easy-to-manage design allows you to achieve the highest equipment efficiency.

And the materials from which containers for cement are made make it possible to make such equipment durable, not affected by negative environmental factors.

Depending on the needs of the construction, our specialists will help you choose the most suitable forms of containers that will be convenient and productive to use when performing the tasks. Accordingly, depending on the configuration and availability of additional devices, the cost of construction equipment may vary.

Buckets and other containers for concrete

We can also offer you to buy a construction concrete vibrator.

Other products of our production:

The tower of the tour is construction.

scaffolding

Source: http://www.megass.ru/tara-dlya-betona-rastvora.html

How to prepare high-quality concrete?

When building small objects: a garage, a cellar or a gazebo, it is not advisable to buy a ready-made solution.

You don’t use it all at once, since pouring the foundation, erecting walls and other types of work must be done at a certain interval.

Therefore, it is advisable, as necessary, to knead the concrete with your own hands, in small portions, which can immediately be put into action. To make the material particularly durable, do not forget to moisten it for 7-10 days after laying.

Required Components and Attachments

If we are not talking about special brands of concrete, it will need only a few components and a minimum of tools for preparation:

• cement;
• sand;
• crushed stone or gravel;
• water;
• trough or similar container;
• shovel.

The quality of the solution depends on the accuracy of the proportions, the purity of the materials and the thoroughness of their mixing.

Clay should not be present in sand and gravel, which impairs the characteristics of the finished filling, its resistance to moisture and cold.

If these fillers will be in the open air for some time, they must be covered with something from falling leaves and other debris. Avoid getting into the solution of particles of synthetic materials and dust.

Water for mixing the solution can be used both drinking and technical, collect it from the tap, in a well or in a river. But salty water or containing foreign inclusions can significantly affect the quality of concrete.

In addition, if it is reinforced, excess salt in the water will lead to corrosion of the metal.

Particles of clay, silt, algae, fuel oil or an overestimated concentration of any chemical compound also significantly affect the quality of the final product.

The allowable size of pieces of crushed stone is in the range from 5 to 150 mm. It is best to use a fine filler, no more than 20 mm. The size of the larger stone should not exceed one third of the thickness of the concrete layer.

In the manufacture of concrete, other types of filler can be used instead of crushed stone or gravel. These are coal slags, expanded clay, artificial crushed stone. But their use will lead to a decrease in the durability of the structure.

To create decorative types of concrete, small particles of glass or marble chips are added to the solution, colored cement is added.

To prepare a good solution, it is advisable to purchase cement grade M400 or M500. For small buildings, the M300 brand is enough.

But this material “gets old” quite quickly, losing its declared properties, so you don’t need to buy it for future use. When pouring the foundation for a heavy object, only coarse-grained sand is added to the solution.

But it is quite expensive, so for small buildings it is acceptable to use a mixture of coarse and fine sand.

The composition and procedure for the preparation of concrete mix

To prepare about 100 liters of concrete, you need to mix 30 kg of cement (3 buckets), 70 kg of sand (5 buckets), 100 kg of crushed stone (about 8 buckets). Water will take from 16 to 23 liters, depending on the moisture content of the fillers used. For kneading, you can take an old galvanized trough or prepare a wooden shield about 3 m long and 1.4 m wide, upholstered with roofing iron.

Sand is first poured into the container, then cement, after which these ingredients are thoroughly mixed. If there is no construction mixer at hand, you can use a regular shovel. Water is gradually added to the mixture, and each time thereafter it is stirred again. Excess moisture can reduce the strength of future concrete.

The procedure is repeated until a plastic mass of a homogeneous consistency is obtained.

Crushed stone is poured into the prepared mass and everything is mixed again. In terms of density, the concrete solution should resemble good homemade sour cream. If it turns out to be too liquid, a little cement should be added, but not filler. In order to quickly prepare concrete with your own hands, it is better to mix from both sides at the same time, and for large volumes, do it with four people.

If you have your own concrete mixer, or if you can borrow one from somewhere, the mixing process will be much easier. The components are used in the same proportions. The order in which they are loaded into the machine is important. First you need to make sure that the concrete mixer is empty, then pour water into it.

Next, half of the prepared cement is added, all the crushed stone, the remains of the cement, and then the sand is gradually poured. It is desirable to place the capacity of the concrete mixer at a slight angle to the horizontal surface. To obtain a mixture without lumps, rotate the solution for 2 to 3 minutes.

You should not get carried away with the process, since when rotating for more than 3 minutes, concrete delamination may begin.

The article is based on information taken from the site http://Stroybesedku.ru

When building small objects: a garage, a cellar or a gazebo, it is not advisable to buy a ready-made solution. You don’t use it all at once, since pouring the foundation, erecting walls and other types of work must be done at a certain interval. Therefore, it is advisable to mix the concrete with your own hands as necessary, in small portions, which can immediately be put into action. To make the material particularly durable, do not forget to moisten it for 7-10 days after laying.

Required Components and Attachments

If we are not talking about special brands of concrete, it will need only a few components and a minimum of tools for preparation:

• cement;
• sand;
• crushed stone or gravel;
• water;
• trough or similar container;
• shovel.

The quality of the solution depends on the accuracy of the proportions, the purity of the materials and the thoroughness of their mixing. Clay should not be present in sand and gravel, which impairs the characteristics of the finished filling, its resistance to moisture and cold. If these fillers will be out in the open for some time, they must be covered with something from falling leaves and other debris. Avoid getting into the solution of particles of synthetic materials and dust.

Water for mixing the solution can be used both drinking and technical, collect it from the tap, in a well or in a river. But salty water or containing foreign inclusions can significantly affect the quality of concrete. In addition, if it is reinforced, excess salt in the water will lead to corrosion of the metal. Particles of clay, silt, algae, fuel oil or an overestimated concentration of any chemical compound also significantly affect the quality of the final product.

The allowable size of pieces of crushed stone is in the range from 5 to 150 mm. It is best to use a fine filler, no more than 20 mm. The size of the larger stone should not exceed one third of the thickness of the concrete layer. In the manufacture of concrete, other types of filler can be used instead of crushed stone or gravel. These are coal slags, expanded clay, artificial crushed stone. But their use will lead to a decrease in the durability of the structure. To create decorative types of concrete, small particles of glass or marble chips are added to the solution, colored cement is added.

To prepare a good solution, it is advisable to purchase cement grade M400 or M500. For small buildings, the M300 brand is enough. But this material “gets old” quite quickly, losing its declared properties, so you don’t need to buy it for future use. When pouring the foundation for a heavy object, only coarse-grained sand is added to the solution. But it is quite expensive, so for small buildings it is acceptable to use a mixture of coarse and fine sand.

The composition and procedure for the preparation of concrete mix

To prepare about 100 liters of concrete, you need to mix 30 kg of cement (3 buckets), 70 kg of sand (5 buckets), 100 kg of crushed stone (about 8 buckets). Water will take from 16 to 23 liters, depending on the moisture content of the fillers used. For kneading, you can take an old galvanized trough or prepare a wooden shield about 3 m long and 1.4 m wide, upholstered with roofing iron. Sand is first poured into the container, then cement, after which these ingredients are thoroughly mixed. If there is no construction mixer at hand, you can use a regular shovel. Water is gradually added to the mixture, and each time thereafter it is stirred again. Excess moisture can reduce the strength of future concrete. The procedure is repeated until a plastic mass of a homogeneous consistency is obtained.

Crushed stone is poured into the prepared mass and everything is mixed again. In terms of density, the concrete solution should resemble good homemade sour cream. If it turns out to be too liquid, a little cement should be added, but not filler. In order to quickly prepare concrete with your own hands, it is better to mix from both sides at the same time, and for large volumes, do it with four people.

If you have your own concrete mixer, or if you can borrow one from somewhere, the mixing process will be much easier. The components are used in the same proportions. The order in which they are loaded into the machine is important. First you need to make sure that the concrete mixer is empty, then pour water into it. Next, half of the prepared cement is added, all the crushed stone, the remains of the cement, and then the sand is gradually poured. It is desirable to place the capacity of the concrete mixer at a slight angle to the horizontal surface. To obtain a mixture without lumps, rotate the solution for 2 to 3 minutes. You should not get carried away with the process, since when rotating for more than 3 minutes, concrete delamination may begin.

As a rule, construction works rarely do without the use of concrete. It is rather difficult to knead the solution with one's own hands, using only a large container and a shovel, and with a significant scale of the forthcoming work, it is not at all advisable. It is much more convenient to mix concrete with a concrete mixer. Such a unit can be purchased at any specialized store, but still, many, trying to save money, try to make it on their own. A do-it-yourself concrete mixer is a great opportunity to acquire such a useful device at minimal financial cost. How it can be made, and will be discussed in today's article.

Popular do-it-yourself concrete mixer designs

Consider a few simple options that are most popular.

Option number 1. Mechanical

You can see the design of this simple mechanical mixing unit in the image below. The main advantage of such a concrete mixer is that it has an impressive volume. As for the drive, in this case it can be either manual or electric. To unload concrete, the bucket must be tilted to one side.

But there is also a minus inherent, in principle, to all units with a tub of cylindrical shape - this is poor-quality mixing in the corners. The mixture is also sprayed if the speed is more than 35 revolutions per minute. But the second problem can be dealt with if, upon completion of the assembly, that part of the barrel that was cut off is welded back into place and a hatch is made in it.

Note! Such a concrete mixer with its own hands kneads a simple solution for no more than 5 minutes, and a dry one - 1-12 minutes.

Video - Manual concrete mixer with a cylindrical bucket

Option number 2. Horizontal combined design, which is equipped with combs

This design, as well as the one described above, can also be both manual and electric. The advantages include high homogeneity of mixing, as well as high speed and quality of this procedure. Such a concrete mixer is made from an old barrel, but its quality is not much inferior to the best modern industrial models. Tellingly, the mixing speed is determined by the number of revolutions, and not by time (to prepare the solution, you need to rotate only three or four times).

Although there is a minus - it consists in the fact that the design is quite complicated. To make even a manual version, you will need several dozen different elements. At the same time, special attention should be paid to the unloading hatch - all seals, latches with hinges must be of exceptionally high quality and reliable. However, if you have a lot of work to do in record time in a place where there is no electrical power, then such a concrete mixer will come in very handy. Finally, we note that similar structures are also manufactured on an industrial scale.

Option number 3. Electrical design

This is perhaps the most common option, which in most cases is copied by home craftsmen. Therefore, there is no need to explain anything in particular. You can find the diagram in the image below. There are many varieties that have certain design differences, and finding detailed drawings is not difficult. In short, here are just a few explanations.

• The neck and bottom of the container must be reinforced with strips welded crosswise.
• The most suitable in this case is a frame mixer, which is welded to the axis.
• It is recommended that the container rotate with the axis - this way the frame design will be more complicated, but you will not have to seal the shaft in the bottom (the latter is one of the reasons for the short service life of the agitators).

Video - Concrete mixer assembly process

Option number 4. Vibrating unit

Quite often, people, having a 1-1.3 kilowatt hammer drill with a percussion mechanism that is forced on, tried to make a vibratory concrete mixer on their own, but in most cases they did not get the desired result.

Let's take a look at common mistakes.

1. First of all, this is the wrong choice of capacity. The latter should only be round, not too wide, but high.
2. The vibrator is not positioned correctly. It should be placed on the axis of the container, and the distance from it to the bottom should approximately correspond to its radius. Above the vibrator itself there should be a solution with a height not exceeding its (again) diameter.
3. A flat vibrator is used. The fact is that if it is made of a sheet of metal, it will not be able to excite the required system of waves in concrete. It is important that the profile of the element be at least approximately the same as shown in the image. The best option is a pair of saucers or plates (it is better to give preference to metal ones), which are stacked together.
4. And the last thing is the vibrator is too large. Its diameter should be 15-20 centimeters per kilowatt of power. Simply put, if the power of the perforator is the same 1.3 kilowatts, then the device will cope with plates with a diameter of 25 centimeters. If the diameter is large, then the concrete mixer with its own hands simply will not be able to "rock" the solution.

If you follow all these requirements, you can get concrete of excellent quality.

Video - Making the original concrete mixer

Making a concrete mixer - step by step guide

To make the design described below, you will need, first of all, patience, since you will have to work hard. The process consists of several successive stages, consider the features of each of them.

Stage one. Capacity

To make a mixing bowl (also known as a pear), prepare a ready-made tub or the materials from which you will make it. There are many possible options - a drum from a washing machine, an old can, a barrel. Although if you put forward special requirements for the future design, then it is preferable to make a pear with your own hands. Prepare sheet metal (not new) with a thickness of 2 to 2.5 millimeters. Then get to work.

Make 3 or 4 components of the future container. A pair of truncated cones (this will be the bottom and top), the base (in other words, the lowest part), and also the fastening of the cones in the center (if such a thing is necessary at all).

After that, weld all the elements together to get a pear (it, in accordance with preliminary calculations, has a volume of about 200 liters). In addition, it is desirable that at each attachment point there is a double weld. It is worth noting that often craftsmen are advised to fix metal rivets between a pair of welds to increase reliability, although this moment is optional.

Stage two. Body and base

As for the case, it is often made of wood, but if you are serious about durability, then it is better to use a metal corner. Give preference to durable material with a minimum of rust (if scrap metal is used), also take care of the design of the most convenient base. The future body must withstand the planned weight with a margin of 20-50 percent, since during vibration and mixing, the load, respectively, will only increase. Moreover, keep in mind that in addition to the concrete weighing 100-200 kilograms, you also need to hold the container itself, and with the necessary additional accessories.

All fasteners are carried out by welding and auxiliary bolted connections. At the same time, it is recommended to take care of the practicality of the future unit in parallel. The concrete mixer can be piled on a frame with wheels for more convenient transportation of the “miracle of technology”. You can also take care of a convenient handle, with which the body will move around the construction site.

Stage three. Engine

This stage is rightfully considered the most difficult, since it is quite difficult to calculate what characteristics and parameters the future equipment should have. Therefore, the power should be determined based on the requirements for the volume and weight of the mixed concrete, as well as the ability to extract one or another engine. Some use a motor from a washing machine or scooter for these purposes, while others prefer less expensive equipment (for example, a motor from an electric drill or any similar tool).

We also note that both the power and the speed at which the concrete mixer will rotate with its own hands should be taken into account. It is important that it is not very high - say, about 15-20 revolutions per minute. There are several ways to adjust the speed - automatic, gears with shafts, a homemade fixture, and also the use of belts.

Stage four. Direct assembly of the concrete mixer

The assembly procedure itself is nothing complicated and includes several sequential steps. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Step one. First you need to make sure that all connections - both pears and cases - are strong enough. Fasteners should be provided in advance, the same applies to the connection and installation of the motor.

step two. After that, you need to install the engine and gearbox on the frame, and then fix all the parts of the rotating mechanism with high quality.

Step Three. The next step is to install the container on the axle and base. This should be done so that the pear is located at an angle of 35 degrees.

Step Four. Now it remains only to check how the concrete mixer turns on / off, whether the fasteners are reliable, how well the rotation occurs. To adjust all parameters, gears or a belt are used.

Note! The procedure described above is more clearly demonstrated in the thematic video below. After looking at it, you will finally understand how to manufacture and run the device described in this article.

Video - Homemade concrete mixer

It is worth noting that any of the designs described above can be a good alternative to expensive "shop" equipment. Although, of course, in the absence of the required consumables, the cost of such budget equipment can increase markedly; although the experience is in any case very interesting. In addition, the design of the concrete mixer can be reduced in cost, and the principle of its operation can be simplified. This can be done, for example, by replacing automatic rotation with manual rotation. In this case, instead of dozens of complex parts, you will need only bearings, a handle, a lever, as well as a “comb”, which will be located inside the pear.

Another option for making a concrete mixer

The construction presented below is very similar to that described in the previous section, and therefore some detailed explanations are not required here. The manufacturing procedure itself can be understood from the given step-by-step illustrations. We only note that in this example, a ready-made barrel of 200 liters, a 250-watt electric motor at 1430 revolutions, a motorcycle wheel, a pair of rings welded together are used. The finished pulley will be welded to the bottom of the tank. You will also need a pair of belts, a channel and pipes 59 for the frame.

Decision feasibility

So, we found out that cement mortar is required for almost all construction work. And if, for example, it is advisable to use a purchased ready-made mixture for pouring the foundation, then in the case of work involving the periodic use of relatively small portions of the mixture, it is advisable to rent / buy a concrete mixer (you can use a manual one, but better an electric one).

Of course, for kneading, you can use the same trough with a shovel, but this approach, in addition to labor costs, has other disadvantages. The quality of concrete in this case will not be high, the mixture will turn out to be heterogeneous, which, in turn, will lead to excess consumption of dry cement and low strength characteristics of the finished concrete.

Note! The term "concrete mixer" refers to a number of special building mixers (manual / electric), that is, devices designed to obtain a homogeneous cement-containing mixture by mixing ingredients with heterogeneous fractions.

As a rule, dry cement is mixed with water, special additives and fillers (the latter can be: sand, expanded clay, screenings, gravel).

How is a concrete mixer built?

Standard design includes:

• frame (it can be both on the chassis and stationary);
• kneading working bodies;
• a container in which the mixing process takes place directly;
• unloading mechanism;
• transmission;
• driving unit (it can be, for example, gasoline or electric).

Let's get acquainted with each of the constructive components in more detail.

1. So, the bed is a structure made of profiles / pipes and is intended to connect all parts of the concrete mixer into one system. If the unit is small, then the frame can be equipped with two / four wheels to make it easier to transport.
2. Blades, augers and other parts that act directly on the ingredients of the concrete being kneaded can often be referred to mixing bodies.
3. A container is an element in which all these ingredients are mixed. Its volume and dimensions depend mainly on the performance of the concrete mixer.
4. Unloading mechanism - it, as the name suggests, is intended for the extraction of concrete for the purpose of further use in construction work. It can also be different.
5. Finally, a transmission with a driving unit is needed to convert this or that energy into the movement of a kneading body. As noted earlier, the engine is electric (used most often) or gasoline.

The main types of concrete mixers

There are several classifications of the unit described in the article, according to which it is divided according to one or another parameter. So, according to the principle of their action, there are five varieties of concrete mixers.

1. Gravitational. They differ in that the drum for mixing the solution rotates under the influence of gravity. The best option for the preparation of viscous and rigid concrete.
2. Forced. A more difficult to manufacture do-it-yourself concrete mixer, where the container does not move, and the blades inside it mix the components of the mixture. Such units are used in private construction infrequently.
3. Periodic. They are characterized by low power, and therefore need frequent stops. But for private construction, this is a completely acceptable option.
4. Gear (better known as crown).
5. Permanent. Such concrete mixers, judging by the name, operate continuously, and therefore are used mainly for large volumes of work.

In addition, according to the type of concrete produced, the equipment can be of two types

• mortar mixers;
• concrete mixers.

Let's consider each of these options in more detail.

Option number 1. Mortar mixers

Simple equipment, designed for private construction. Designed for mixing components, the size of the fractions of which is more than 2 centimeters. Also, the units can be industrial (if the volume does not exceed 1200 liters) and for private use (over 30 liters).

As a rule, all ingredients are mixed in mortar mixers in a forced way, for which a horizontal screw is used, which rotates in an immovable container. If the volume of the unit is more than 100 liters, then it must be equipped with dispensers. And if the volume of equipment exceeds 250 liters, then it, as a rule, will include the following elements:

• engine;
• mixing container;
• drive unit;
• rotating shaft having blades.

Note! Small mortar mixers with a volume not exceeding 65 liters are emptied by tilting the drum. If the volume is larger, then a hatch is used for this, which is located at the bottom of the device.

Option number 2. concrete mixers

They are designed for use with components with a fraction size of no more than 7 centimeters. All units of this type are classified in the same way as described in one of the previous sections of the article.

In addition, according to the features of the installation, they can be:

• mobile (this includes both concrete mixers with a chassis and units without it);
• stationary (often for industrial purposes, characterized by increased productivity);
• automotive.

We also note that, depending on the type of drive and energy source, all concrete mixers are divided into several more varieties.

• With manual drive. They are characterized by the fact that they are able to convert the muscular efforts of a person into the rotation of a kneading organ. The transmission is in most cases chain gear or belt. Such concrete mixers are not very common, since their volume is insignificant, and they do not facilitate labor very much.
• With motor drive. A concrete mixer (made with your own hands, including) of this kind operates on a diesel / gasoline engine.
• With pneumatic and hydraulic drive. The kneading organs in this case move due to the conversion of the energy of compressed air or liquid, which are supplied under high pressure. Such equipment is exclusively for industrial use, since it needs powerful additional devices.
• Electrical. The most popular types of concrete mixers today, not only for industrial, but also for domestic use. The range of such units is quite extensive, and their volume varies from 30 to several thousand liters.

Benefits of using

There are several of them, let's take a closer look at each of them.

• Manual-type units, in fact, are completely autonomous.
• But the crown mixer is quite easy to use and, if necessary, repair.
• Motor-driven equipment is also quite autonomous, as it only needs fuel.

Application Disadvantages

• For electrical appliances, this is the opening of the hatch some time after the interruption of the supply of electricity and, as a result, the discharge of concrete (otherwise it will harden).
• In addition, concrete mixers, in principle, are seasonal. For the most part, they (especially small units) cannot be used at sub-zero temperatures. As a result, it is necessary to additionally use a steam generator in winter.
• Separately, it is worth highlighting the disadvantages of motor-driven devices - this is the high cost of the fuel used, the high level of noise during operation, as well as the toxicity of exhaust gases.
• A simple mortar mixer capable of operating at a temperature not lower than +2 degrees does not have equipment that provides heating of the mixture.
• The performance of manual units is quite low, while the labor intensity of mixing, on the contrary, is high.

As a conclusion

As you can see, the independent manufacture of a concrete mixer is nothing complicated, you can deal with it. And the costs are fully justified, since the speed of any construction work with such equipment will increase significantly. That's all, good luck with your work and warm winters!