What is putty and plaster: what is the difference. Plastering walls without beacons: methods and materials. Mechanical plaster Walls without plaster

This technology is applicable:

• In an apartment on the walls where tiles are planned (bathroom, bathroom) - plaster defects will be corrected with an adhesive mass;
• Garage. A thin layer of plaster will hide visible defects, prepare the surface for painting or whitewashing;
• Workshop - the room will be insulated. In addition, walls can be painted or wallpaper glued;
• Boiler room. The main task is to hide the flaws of the masonry;
• With plasterboard sheathing of walls - they are carried out to protect them from the effects of an unfavorable environment;
• To the internal brick partition, made very smoothly, but due to numerous masonry joints, not subject to painting or wallpapering, etc.

Pros and cons of plastering walls without beacons

Aligning walls with plaster without beacons with your own hands has both positive and negative sides. The advantages include:

• solution savings. The installation of beacons involves a minimum layer of plaster of 7-8 mm. An experienced craftsman will lay a mortar with a thickness of 4-5 mm, a beginner will be able to plaster the wall with a layer of 5-6 mm. As can be seen from the figures given, the solution will require 1.5-2 times less. However, there is a pitfall here: in the absence of elementary skills, at the beginning of work, part of the solution will be on the floor, which will significantly reduce the expected savings;
• Reducing the cost of repairs. The cost of purchasing a set of beacons that do not need to be bought will not save much on the repair budget. The invitation of a professional finisher eliminates this savings altogether - plastering without beacons is more expensive (there are two factors: a more labor-intensive process and a smaller area of ​​​​plastering). At the same time, the implementation of the entire technological process on its own will give a good financial result in total;
• Higher quality plaster surface. The absence of beacons and a thin plaster layer avoid cracks;
• The ability to save the volume of the room due to the smaller thickness of the plaster layer;
• Saving auxiliary materials - there is no need to buy beacon guides, self-tapping screws and metal profile holders.

The method also has disadvantages, but they are relative, since when using it, the owners agree with them in advance:

• You can not get a very flat surface of the wall. Minimal defects will be present;
• It is problematic to draw a plane vertically and diagonally, especially without work experience;
• The technological process is laborious;
• The work cannot be done quickly. There is one caveat here - in most materials on the problem of plastering walls without beacons, they talk about saving time. The authors believe that the absence of the need to install beacons will speed up the plastering work. But they do not take into account the fact that leveling the plaster on the beacons and applying the mortar evenly, without auxiliary means, is not the same thing. In the second case, constant control by the rule and level over the progress of work is needed. In addition, with beacons, the mortar is simply thrown onto the wall between the guides, and without beacons, the plaster is carried out in small areas with constant control.

How to plaster walls without beacons

Do-it-yourself plastering of walls without lighthouses in stages represents a cycle of interrelated works, including:

1. preparation of walls for plastering;
2. calculation of the need for dry plaster or its components;
3. purchase of materials and preparation of tools;
4. solution preparation;
5. applying plaster to the surface of the wall.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work for applying plaster without beacons is slightly different from similar work when working with guide profiles. This is due to the different status of the premises in which the work is carried out. However, here, in order to ensure a long service life of the plaster, it is necessary to perform a step-by-step cycle of operations:

1. remove from the walls, if repairs are being carried out, wallpaper, paint or whitewash, as well as the old plaster layer (in newly built premises, this stage is skipped);
2. inspect the walls and carry out, if necessary, work on sealing microcracks;
3. embroider masonry joints in brick walls to create good adhesion of the mortar to the wall surface, and on concrete walls, so as not to fasten the plaster mesh, make serifs with a hammer and a chisel or bush hammer;
4. clean the surface from dust and dirt;
5. apply two layers of a penetrating primer (when buying a primer, you should pay attention to the type of wall - brick, concrete or aerated concrete).

The technology for preparing walls for plastering is described in detail in the material ""

Material Requirements Calculation

At first glance, it is not very difficult to calculate the need for mortar components or dry plaster mixtures. Multiply the wall area by the thickness of the plaster layer, take into account losses of 10-15% and, using the construction tables, calculate the amount of cement and sand required for the work. If ready-made mixtures are bought, then the packaging shows their consumption per 1 m 2 with a layer thickness of 10 mm. Which also does not cause difficulties in the calculations.

Problems arise when determining the thickness of the plaster layer. When hanging a wall for installing beacons, a large number of measurements determine the average thickness of the plaster. Here it is impossible to carry out such work, since the plane of the plaster is not formed.

Experienced craftsmen get out of this situation simply: using a level and a flat long board (rail) as a rule, they find the maximum deviation of the wall from the vertical. This figure is divided by two and added 4 mm. The result is the approximate thickness of the plaster layer.

For those who want to more accurately know the consumption of the solution, we recommend hanging the wall. Detailed instructions for this technological operation are set out in the work "".

Materials and tools

Leveling walls without beacons usually requires the purchase of the necessary materials and the provision of workers with tools and fixtures.

Materials. For a cement-sand mortar, you need to buy:

• Portland cement M400 (dry mixes in finished form);
• river (fine-grained), sand washed from clay;
• fiberglass fiber to prevent cracking of the plaster;
• deep penetration primer (Ceresit CT 16, Condor, Alpina Primer);
• PVA glue to speed up the hydration process or liquid soap to slow it down (it is recommended to add soap in the first batches - lack of experience can lead to setting of a solution that has not yet been worked out).

You will also need water.

Tools and fixtures. The work cannot be done without tools and fixtures. You will need:

• portable platform or ladder;
• homemade metal trough for mixing the solution for 4-5 buckets;
• garden hoe - it is convenient for her to stir the solution;
• long flat board or rule 2-2.5 m;
• cuvette for primer;
• roller or brush for applying primer;
• a hammer;
• chisel;
• plumb;
• spirit level (bubble level);
• plasterer set (includes a trowel, a falcon, a trowel, a grater, a trowel and a set of spatulas).

Basic plastering techniques without beacons

Every professional plasterer knows how to level walls without beacons. At the same time, each of them has his own favorite method (experts count 4 methods).

The first. During the application of soil along the entire length of the wall, three horizontal strips of mortar are laid out: one in the center, the other at a height of 10-20 cm from the floor, the third is launched along the top of the wall. With the help of the rule and the spirit level (bubble level), the future plane of the plaster is formed with a trowel.

The result is something similar to mortar beacons - in the language of professionals, they are called landmarks. It is impossible to achieve high accuracy with this method, but the process is accelerated and the output is a fairly even surface of the wall.

Work is carried out after the complete drying of the landmarks. To speed up the process of hydration of the plaster, the craftsmen add gypsum (1-2 trowels per bucket of cement-sand mixture) to the solution (only for landmarks, and not for the entire plaster) - improvised lighthouses will be ready for further work in 30-40 minutes.

Second. Along the edges of the wall, at a distance of 5-10 cm from the corner, three holes are drilled for dowels: at the top, bottom and middle. Self-tapping screws are screwed into them so that their heads protrude from the wall by 5-6 mm.

With the help of a plumb line, each row of self-tapping screws is brought into one plane, after which three strings of fishing line are pulled between the screws. These strings serve as guidelines when applying the second layer of plaster - soil.

Third. The most popular method is to work with the help of an “eye gauge”. Let's see how to properly plaster walls without beacons with a cement-sand mixture.

Plaster without beacons DSP

According to the “eye gauge”, work is carried out in situations where the wall has no blockages and height differences - you just need to level it for painting or wallpaper. In this case, cement, sand and fiberglass are used for mortar.

The first layer of plaster, spraying, is performed with a liquid (fluid) solution. The wall is literally watered with them, creating a very thin layer of plaster. Professional builders for these purposes use hoppers powered by a compressor or manually operated.

If there is no hopper, the solution can be smeared on the wall with a grater, trowel, spatula, or generally with a wide paint brush or a brush-brush (used for whitewashing with chalk or lime). The technological process is similar to priming the surface with a primer. Here it is necessary to control the thickness of the layer - it should be as thin as possible and not allow gaps.

The second stage, the most difficult, is started after the spray has dried. The main thing here is not to miss the moment of applying the primer - with a dry layer it will not have the necessary adhesion: the second layer will either fall off or crack.

The cement mortar is mixed from M400 cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 2 (when using Portland cement M500 sand, 3 parts are taken). Fiber is added to the dry mixture (without water) in small portions (if it is added in one portion, it will not be possible to stir it - the fiberglass fibers will clump into hedgehog balls).

After each addition of fiber, the dry solution is stirred. After that, water is added in portions to the resulting mixture until a plaster of the consistency of bread dough is obtained.

It is necessary to plaster the wall with such a solution in small sections. Start from the bottom left corner.

The solution is applied with a plaster spatula (trowel), and leveled with a trowel. In the process of leveling, the surface is controlled by a rule and a spirit level - the plastered area is leveled vertically, diagonally and horizontally. Alignment is completed with a rule that removes small errors left by a trowel.

Having finished with the first section, proceed to the second. You can go up or along the floor, down. The completed sections serve as a guide when working on the second piece of plaster, which makes it possible to avoid distortions and noticeable transitions. To help the eye, you must constantly use the rule and level.

At the final stage of plastering, the surface of the wall is washed with a liquid solution (the process is called coating) - roughness, stripes from the trowel and rules, and other flaws are removed. Work on applying the coating begins when the second layer of plaster dries - it will not be pressed through when pressed by hand, but, at the same time, it will be rubbed into sand when stroked, with effort, with your fingers.

Attention: it is necessary to check how dry the soil is sequentially, starting from the first section, since while the work on plastering the wall was going on, the first fragment could have had time to completely seize.

The plaster mortar is made only from cement diluted with water. It is applied with a thickness of 1-2 mm. Before application, the treated area is wetted. The coating is applied with a trowel and rubbed in a circular motion.

The process of applying the plaster is completed by rubbing it, which can be performed both on a not completely dried mortar and a few days after applying the coating.

If the wall has a deviation from the vertical, it will come to the rescue fourth method.

How to plaster walls without beacons when the wall collapses?

Here, lines drawn along the floor, walls and ceiling, limiting the surface of the plaster, come to the aid of the eye. The correct workflow is as follows:

1. With the help of a rule or a long, even board, there is a place near the wall that protrudes into the room;
2. Departing from it 5 mm, a line is drawn parallel to the wall, which continues on the floor, the next wall and ceiling;
3. The first stage of plastering work is being carried out - spraying;
4. After the spray has dried, a primer is applied, where the drawn line acts as a guide;
5. A small area is plastered, then the next, and so on in a circle. Surface control is carried out by the rule and spirit level. After the plaster strip is looped, the next part of the wall is plastered. The reference point is no longer a drawn strip, but a plane formed by plaster.

The work must be completed in the center of the wall. The technology for applying the plaster layer is identical to that given above (see point 3). Note that there are no differences in plastering walls with gypsum and cement mortar.

Conclusion

Performing self-plastering work without beacons requires certain skills. You can practice on a section of the wall, which will subsequently be plastered. After receiving the first skills, it is enough to remove the applied plaster and do it all over again. With a careful attitude to the plastering process, everything works out for beginners too - it is important not to rush and not forget the sequence of work.

Related videos

Concrete walls rarely remain in the interior in their original form. External concrete elements require additional coating to avoid premature failure. A simple and financially inexpensive way is.

The coating of concrete elements with paint is a step-by-step preparation of the surface using means that allow for the long-term preservation of the integrity of both the concrete slab and the finish coating. When choosing a paint, it is necessary to take into account a number of nuances related to the purpose of the room and the functionality of the painted surface.

Training

The first step in preparing concrete structures for painting is the use of a sealant. A special composition designed for concrete is applied in one layer and dries within a day. Sealant allows you to create a barrier against the penetration of mold microbes.

The next step in the workflow is priming. Primers for concrete have a light shade, necessary for the subsequent check that the entire surface is covered evenly. If not, the primer is applied again, drying each layer for a day.

To determine the readiness of the concrete surface for painting, it is necessary to carry out a moisture test: a piece of polyethylene measuring 1 m2 is tightly glued to the concrete with adhesive tape and left overnight. If in the morning condensation has settled on the film (a slight “sweat” or drops), then the concrete has not yet dried out enough and it is better to postpone finishing work for a while.

There are special impregnations for concrete that perform a dust-removing function (protecting against abrasion and crumbling), which are usually used on concrete floors.

If there are cracks

It is better to repair any surface imperfections in the form of cracks, chips, drop-shaped recesses with a special repair mortar (cement, putty) using a trowel or spatula.

This will allow subsequent layers to lie evenly and prolong the durability of the coating.

After using the mixture to cover the cracks, it is necessary to pass the surface with sandpaper to remove excessive roughness.

Without finishing

Before applying paint, the concrete surface should be washed to remove dirt and dust, which shorten the life of any paintwork. Concrete can be cleaned with a soapy solution using a rag or a coarse brush in case of severe contamination.

On concrete, if there is no protective coating, rust will form over time, which should also be removed before painting.

A solution of copper sulfate copes well with a rusty coating.

If the affected area is too large, it is necessary to treat with rosin varnish.

Finished

There are three main ways to remove old finishes from a concrete surface:

1. sandblasting - requiring skill and time for subsequent drying;
2. alkali solution - necessary to remove old paint;
3. the use of a spatula is a mechanical method of scraping off a layer, time-consuming, but giving an easily controlled result.

If the concrete wall is covered with dirt or soot, then the right solution would be to use a soda ash solution to wash the contaminated surface.

Indoor and outdoor work: differences

Carrying out staining on internal and external concrete has two differences.

• surface temperature. Concrete located indoors is not very susceptible to temperature changes, and when applying paint from the outside, two conditions must be strictly observed: surface temperature - above 5 ° C; concrete should not be overheated by direct sunlight.
• Work time. If work inside is carried out according to the general repair schedule, then for painting external surfaces it is necessary to choose the time of day when the appearance of morning or evening dew is reduced to zero.

When applying paint to external concrete surfaces, it is necessary to choose the right weather - cloudy, but without rain.

Painting the walls inside: features

Can be applied directly to primer or pre-filled walls.

The choice of putty depends on the general humidity of the room: in a dry, heated place, the use of gypsum mortars is recommended, in wet places - mixtures based on cement.

How to paint without putty

Coloring concrete without applying a layer of plaster retains the visible structure of the coating.

In interiors, concrete surfaces are used to emphasize the coldness and masculinity of the overall style of the room, therefore, as a rule, paint shades of gray and sand are chosen.

Is it possible to paint without plaster

Painting without preliminary puttying is possible, it is important to choose the right compounds for impregnation and primer, because they will fix the layers of paint applied to the concrete wall.

Painting in the apartment without preparation

There are modern coloring compositions that do not require the application of a base. They are not so durable, but they allow you to easily change the situation. A feature of using all-in-one paint is the need to refill the sprayer.

What should be the finish for painting on concrete walls

Concrete allows you to create a finishing layer of plaster that can imitate brickwork, 3D drawings, frescoes, partial finishes required by the interior design. In such cases, the paint is applied after the wall texture has completely dried, usually with a thin brush, for the best resemblance to the original.

How to paint without leveling

When painting walls, a problem often pops up - the unevenness of the wall violates the integrity of the coating, which subsequently leads to cracking of the paint. This misunderstanding can be easily corrected by the correct selection of building materials:

• paint roller - must be marked as a tool "for uneven walls";
• paint - you should choose textured, imitating waves, strokes, wood structure, etc.

Choice of interior paint

The range of modern building and finishing materials only increases with each season, so the best recommendations will be given by the store's consultants, taking into account the area of ​​​​the premises, the purpose and interior requests of the client. , selected for concrete coating, must not only have the appropriate marking, but also contain detailed instructions for use.

Three types of paints are most commonly used.

1. Epoxy. Differs in wear resistance. It has a rich color, protects the walls from moisture. Painting work must be carried out in rooms with good ventilation. Cracks may appear over time.
2. Acrylic. It has an economical consumption, sometimes one layer is enough. Environmentally friendly. Dries quickly, moisture resistant. The only negative is the short service life.
3. Glossy. An environmentally friendly product, but at the same time it is sensitive to mechanical damage.

If it is necessary to fight mold and fungus, any type of paint will do - the main thing is that antibacterial components are present in the composition, as evidenced by special marks on the label.

Concrete surfaces with paint is not difficult for both beginners and experienced finishers. When painting, it is important to patiently wait until each layer of the coating dries, then the result will be uniform and durable.

Useful video

Why plaster - why does this question arise? Out of a desire to save money. After all, plaster, especially smooth and professional, is not cheap. And, since the foam, etc. are themselves even, it would be possible, in theory, to do without plaster.

They say plaster is needed for decoration. But it's easier to decorate with just paint. They say you need to level the wall with plaster. But it can be leveled with drywall. They say that the plaster protects from moisture. But neither a brick, nor a foam block, nor an arbolite, nor a foam plastic let moisture through.

So why do you need plaster?

Now, if the house was made of straw (“ Straw Geocupol” and “Frame and frameless straw house“), an adobe house or a house made of bags of earth - everything is clear here. The plaster really protects against erosion by rain.

Oddly enough, the reasons for using plaster are different for different materials. Moreover, there are many conditions under which plaster is needed / not needed for these materials. Let's start in order.

Do bricks need to be plastered?

If the wall is built so that there are gaps between the bricks, and if you don't want warm air blowing out in the winter, then plaster is needed.

If the wall is so crooked that it infuriates you, then plaster is needed. If the curvature of the walls is imperceptible, then you can not plaster.

If you want to glue wallpaper, then plaster is needed. Although liquid wallpaper can be applied without plaster.

If the brick wall is thin and you want to strengthen it, then plastering on both sides using a reinforcing mesh will correct the situation.

Is it possible not to plaster foam concrete / gas block?

By itself, neither aerated concrete, nor foam concrete, do not let water through. They are good insulators. Their strength is not high, so their correct use is not for supporting walls, but as a heater. But this is not the topic of the article 🙂

Foam concrete and aerated concrete are porous. Water can get into the outer pores. In winter, it freezes, expands - and the top layer of brick peels off. If peeling occurs evenly, and the wall thickness is more than half a meter, then this phenomenon can be ignored for 50 years. That is, you can not plaster.

But if the wall is one block, and the destruction will be on one (for example, northern) side, then the wall must be protected. To do this, you can use rough rough plaster in one layer. You can even save on paint by adding pigment to the plaster.

You can also experiment. In theory, a thick layer of acrylic facade paint applied to primed foam-aerated concrete protects against water no worse (or even better) than plaster. In practice, this method is rarely used, because cracks are frequent when laying foam blocks. Crack repair is best done with plaster.

Why plaster wood concrete?

Arbolite is a mixture of cement and sawdust. In theory, it is a very durable substance, resistant to atmospheric phenomena. But in practice, wood fibers are still slightly saturated with moisture. And when a tree is saturated with moisture, it expands. For example, in ancient Egypt, giant blocks were chipped from solid rock in this way - they drilled holes, hammered wooden stakes into them and poured water on them. The tree swelled and pricked the stone.

So, wood concrete needs to be protected with plaster from moisture. If the structure is temporary, shed type - you can not touch it, the material must withstand half a century. But if you need additional reliability, it is worth plastering.

Moreover, you do not have to make super-smooth and super-smooth plaster. Enough for the comfort and aesthetics of minimal protection - great! There will be money for a thinner and more expensive finish - good luck!

Is there a need for foam plastic plastering?

Styrofoam is a great material, except that it breaks down in the sun. So plaster is one way to protect the foam from destruction by the sun.

Although practice shows: if a foam plastic house is not plastered, you have 5-10 years until the foam plastic collapses. So for a year or two such a house can stand without plaster. Don't believe? Drive through the villages. There are plenty of houses with bare styrofoam - ask the owners how many years they have not plastered (and are not going to).

Further, there are other ways to protect the foam from ultraviolet radiation. For example, painting with facade acrylic paint. But here a problem similar to foam blocks is the gaps between the foam plates. But you can only plaster them - and then paint.

Should you plaster concrete?

Here it is somewhat similar to a brick, but much simpler. Usually concrete is either monolithic concrete, when both the walls and the floors in the formwork are poured. Or concrete panels. If the formwork was clumsy, then the walls will turn out to be clumsy. If your taste is disgusting, then you can plaster.

But if the evenness of the walls suits you, you can simply prime it from dust and for better adhesion - and go ahead, decorate with anything, from wallpaper to volumetric decorative acrylic plaster.

And you can not process at all. You can polish it and leave it like that 🙂

The question may arise:

Is there a material that does NOT need to be plastered?

Yes there is. This is limestone. Not soft shell rock crumbling in the hands, but good, solid limestone from proven catacombs. Buildings made of limestone blocks have stood for hundreds and thousands of years without any plaster. Don't believe? Go to Belgorod-Dnestrovsky, to Sudak, to Balaklava - there are excellent castles made of limestone, which are hundreds or even thousands of years old.

Finally, an important nuance. Plaster can be of several types:

• draft
• finishing
• finishing
• and dozens of other types.

These types of plasters are superimposed one on top of the other. It turns out a multi-layer cake. For each of the layers you pay full price.

Again, unless you're going to make a super mega level palace with perfect straight lines throughout, there's no need for most of the plastering. Sometimes a rough one is enough. Sometimes you need to apply a second layer. And that's it, you can paint and decorate in every possible way.

It is also believed that plaster is a dull gray plane. But if you approach the issue creatively, then there are dyes for concrete. Not a very wide range, but with the use of ocher you can get a good light brown color. In general, if you want to save money, you can not even paint the walls. It is enough to add dye to the plaster 🙂

Of course, any experiment needs test samples.

Happy plastering or non-plastering houses!

If you have additions or questions - ask in the comments!

Plaster beacons made of metal, plastic and wire (or strings) are used to reduce the time for plastering work. However, in some cases, for example, when it is impossible to buy ready-made guides for some reason, and plastering needs to be done right now, you can use another option. It is called plastering walls without beacons, although, in fact, it is the creation of guides from mortar.

Features of the technique

Among the advantages of using mortar (gypsum) plaster without beacons is the ability to reduce the cost of work at the same level of savings as with conventional beacons. And the disadvantages include the need to use the services of a specialist. Moreover, experienced enough to work with plaster mortar. A non-professional or a master who is used to plastering on metal guides will spend much more time on a similar amount of work, and is unlikely to achieve the same high-quality result.

It is because of this that the decision to use the technology of plastering without beacons is made only after checking the slope of the enclosing structures using a level and level. If the distortions on one wall are relatively small, and do not exceed 10-15 mm in any of the directions, this option can also be selected. The same applies to non-residential premises, in which there is no need to make perfectly even walls - it is enough to achieve their smoothness.

The device guides from the solution

The principle of leveling walls with plaster without beacons, but with the use of mortar, is to install guides that do not require the use of:

• metal, plastic and wooden profiles;
• special strings, along which the plane of the plaster layer is leveled;
• fasteners such as plastic clips, "" or "".

You can start plastering the walls with gypsum plaster without beacons immediately after the guides dry out - as a rule, the next day. On the one hand, this is a minus, increasing the time of work. On the other hand, by correctly calculating the end time for the installation of mortar guides, you can leave the plastering for the next day.

Tile adhesive guides

Another not too often used way to make beacons for plastering walls is to make them from tile adhesive. The technique owes its unpopularity to the too long period of solidification of such a solution. Sometimes guides made from it may not dry out for 1-3 days. And the glue itself sticks to the rule, interfering with the plastering process.

At the same time, if an adhesive mixture remains after laying the tiles, it can still be used to make guides, saving on plaster. To do this, 1 part of glue must be added to 1 part of cement and 2.5 parts of sand. The result is a mortar whose properties are similar to those of CT29 (polymer-cement putty). And plastering with a thin layer without beacons is carried out according to the same method as when using mortar guides.

The device guide beacons

The technology for installing gypsum beacons includes:

• preparatory work;
• preparation of a solution for guides;
• the device of the main mortar beacons.

If necessary, the installation of intermediate guides is added to this list. The decision to install them is made if the differences on the surface of one wall (ceiling or floor) are large enough. Or in cases where the length of the plastered structure is too large. Below is a video on how to install guide beacons on the wall.

Preparing for installation

Before leveling the walls with plaster without Rotband beacons or another mixture (a video of the plastering process for each option is easy to find on the net), preparation should be made. It is not much different from work using lighthouses and includes the following steps:

1. Preparation of suitable materials and tools;
2. Cleaning the surface from exfoliated finishes and dirt;
3. A primer to improve the adhesion of plaster to it.

Now you can prepare the solution and start plastering. At the same time, it is recommended to use one of the two most popular ways to level the walls with plaster without beacons, the video of which makes it easier to imagine the process itself. The first option is suitable for ordinary walls, the second - for concrete structures (foam concrete, aerated concrete).

First way

Using the first method, how to plaster walls with gypsum plaster without beacons, involves the following work:

1. Screwing screws on one side of the wall (distance to the corner and ceiling or floor - 100 mm each). The distance from the wall to the cap is chosen so that it is 0.5–1.0 cm below the surface of the plaster layer;
2. Leveling the surface of the fastener and repeating the same work on the other side of the wall;
3. The device guides from the same solution that is used for the main work, or gypsum. The second option makes the beacons more durable;

Now, in order for the rule not to pass through the nails, round areas - “marks” are arranged above them from the solution. The diameter of each is up to 70 mm, the height above the level of the caps is up to 5 mm. After throwing plaster on the nails, the circles are cut off - the result should be squares with sides up to 4 x 4 cm and resembling a cone in section.

After installing the fasteners, you can begin the installation of mortar or gypsum guides for beacons under plaster with your own hands. For this, a rule is used, the length of which should be slightly less than the height of the room. It is applied to the surface of the stamps and a solution (gypsum) is thrown under the bottom. Excess material is cut off, and voids in the guides (appearing mainly after drying). After completing the installation of the guides, and making sure they dry, you can start plastering the structure. As a rule, such a method, how to level a wall with plaster without beacons, leads to a quick transition to wall decoration.

Second way

Another technique for making beacons for plastering with your own hands is suitable for use on concrete surfaces. In this case, the use of gypsum mortar is not allowed - only a plaster mixture. The method includes the following steps:

1. Production of mortar grades (according to the same method as for the first option);
2. Creating a guide by applying mortar under the rule. In this case, light blows are applied to the tool with a hammer;
3. The rule is left in the solution and used as a frame for the guide.

The plastering of the walls without gypsum beacons is being completed.

The sequence of steps and the technique for performing surface plastering without beacons. Basic moments.

Wall plaster

The work of repairing a wall without marks is a laborious, painstaking process that requires an increased level of knowledge in this area.

However, observing the execution steps, it is possible to plaster walls without markers on your own.

Plastering without beacons. Application possibilities

Having some experience in building and repairing premises, guided by the advice of professionals, applying plaster on walls without markers can be an economical way to repair a room, significantly reducing the cost of building material.

In the presence of complex communications that interfere with the installation of beacons, or a narrow space, plastering the surface without beacons becomes a necessity.

Plastering without beacons is appropriate if the wall does not have obvious irregularities.

This type of work is also applicable for walls that are initially even - for plasterboard coating, or that do not require perfect smoothness - for a utility room, garage, or as a layer for further fine finishing.

Advantages of plastering without beacons:

• there is no installation of landmarks;
• there is no need to wait for the solution to harden to fix them;
• reduces the consumption of plaster mortar, allowing a layer of less than 1.5 cm to be applied.

However, a deeper understanding of the process and sequence of actions to create a smooth surface, the right set of tools, as well as an objective ability to visually assess the satisfaction of the state of each stage of the work performed will be required.

For correct actions at a professional level, it is necessary to strictly comply with the requirements for their implementation and for the building materials used.

To begin with, you should train in a small area in the least noticeable area.

Tips before starting work:

• you should make sure that the wall does not have recesses or bulges of more than 2 cm, as well as a slope of more than 1.5 cm, does not have cracks and chips;
• the plane is prepared for applying the plaster layer - the remnants of the old finish, dust, dirt have been removed;
• you should choose the right composition of the plaster mixture depending on the location of the wall - for processing outside, inside, or areas with high humidity, for example, in the bathroom.
• prepare the appropriate tools.

For the correct selection of tools, you must use the advice of professionals and consult with the seller.

The main tools can be:

• devices for cleaning the cultivated area;
• a container for preparing the mixture with an optimal volume of at least 40-50 liters;
• drill with a nozzle "mixer" for stirring finishing materials without the formation of lumps;
• building rule up to 1.5 m long in proportion to the area being worked out;
• a set of spatulas with a width of 10 cm for processing joints and corners up to blades with a width of 50 cm;
• container with a volume of 1 l for measuring the proportion of components that make up the solution;
• grater to give the last layer of perfect smoothness;
• building level with a bubble to check the finished coating;
• roller and brush for priming hard-to-reach places.

To start work, the cleaned wall is primed with a special compound for the most stable adhesion of the plaster mixture to the area being worked on. After this composition dries, work begins on leveling the cultivated area using the building rule.

Alignment Features

Achieving even treatment of areas without beacons is carried out step by step and using a building rule.

The size when choosing a rule is determined depending on the size of the area planned for processing

Applying the rule to the surface, visually determine the degree of unevenness of the wall at any stage of its processing.

There are 3 stages of action:

• starting. The mixture should be thicker in comparison with subsequent layers and is the so-called "rough" finish;
• leveling. It is applied after the first layer has dried in the same way. At this stage, small irregularities and voids that remain after the creation of a rough coating are filled;
• mirror (final). The composition of the solution should be more liquid for the best spreading on the coating, eliminating all previous defects. At this stage, a construction grater is used both when applying the mortar to the wall, and when polishing the area during the drying process, moving it in different directions.

It should be borne in mind that the solution has such a drying property as “landing”, as a result of which it is necessary to adjust the previous stages of processing.

Work on different walls

Before leveling the working surface with a rule without beacons for high-quality adhesion, it is moistened with clean water. For these purposes, you can use a regular garden sprayer.

Depending on the composition of the wall, it is necessary to select the appropriate mortar components

The plaster mixture is thrown in random order using a spatula in several vertical stripes on an area no more than 1 - 1.5 m wide and leveled with a long rule to the same level. Alignment is carried out, following from the floor towards the ceiling.

The type of wall material provides for different methods of preparing them before using the building rule.

plaster wall

Before applying the plaster composition, the gypsum coating is pre-coated with a primer.

Concrete wall

A concrete pavement consists of a solid concrete slab and is relatively flat on its own, so it is relatively easier to achieve leveling on this surface. In addition, cleaning such a surface occurs with the least effort.

Before applying the plaster mass, it is necessary to make shallow serifs of 2 mm for stable adhesion of the building material to its surface.

Foam block

Pre-treatment of the foam block is to cover the voids on its surface.

Monolith

When preparing a monolith, it is enough to cover it with a primer.

It is necessary to check the areas to be worked out after moving along them with the rule for the presence of voids, upon detection of which it is necessary to sketch the plaster again and repeat the process.

Alignment without beacons with other options available

Plaster with a manual method of application can be carried out by a special construction trowel.

When performing the plastering process, an automated, namely a machine method, is also used. Thanks to its use, the mixture is economically consumed, since the solution is distributed evenly, however, this type of processing will require a special level of skill.

Methods and tools for plastering a wall surface can be different. Plastering surfaces without beacons requires experience and utmost care, experience in working with plaster, as well as strict adherence to the sequence and technique of work.

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