Apartments in standard houses often do not differ in convenient layouts and large areas, so the owners go for combining a balcony with a residential area. Combining a balcony with a room, the photo below shows one of the options for joining, which will allow not only to increase the area, but also to implement a unique design project in your home.

This article will discuss how to correctly combine the space and carry out the alteration. What can be placed on the combined balcony, and what is not and how to use the window sill after joining the balcony to the room.

Combined living room with balcony in Provence style

Balcony as an extension of the room

How to attach a balcony to a room:

1. Dismantling the window structure with simultaneous glazing and insulation of the balcony, resulting in a comfortable combined space.
2. Dismantling the wall - will allow you to make a significant increase in the room by combining with a balcony. Connection requires the transfer of heating devices. Therefore, it is better to entrust such an association to specialists who will calculate the loads and prepare the project.

Combining a balcony with a room, especially the demolition of a wall, is a complex redevelopment; in order to carry out the connection, it is necessary to coordinate the work in the relevant authorities. Getting permission to combine a balcony is not so easy: collecting the necessary documents can take a lot of time. Many do not consider it necessary to apply for it. But in this case, the combination of a balcony with a room is carried out at your own peril and risk, and the consequences may be different. Do not neglect permission to join.

Combining is not agreed - the radiator cannot be taken out

Preparatory work for joining a balcony

Before combining, you need to take care of the frame of the balcony. It is better to give preference to a welded structure with an offset, this will increase wind resistance and increase the internal combined space. External cladding it is desirable to perform siding, it has low thermal conductivity and is resistant to temperature extremes.

Regardless of the type of association chosen, the balcony must be glazed and insulated.

Metal-plastic windows with two- or three-chamber double-glazed windows will help to avoid large heat losses in the attached area.

All surfaces, except for the wall between the room and the attached balcony, should be insulated. Simultaneously with the insulation, it is necessary to carry out hydro and vapor barrier work. The extension of central heating pipes to a combined balcony is not allowed, therefore it is especially important to approach the choice of thermal insulation of the attached room. As a heater on the combined area, you can use Penofol, Penoplex.

Combining with a loggia begins with insulation

Materials are attached to surfaces with dowels or gluing. The gaps are filled with mounting foam. Installation of Penofol is carried out with the foil side inward, and the joints are glued with aluminum tape. For optimal comfort, it is worth installing a warm floor on the combined balcony, and increasing the number of batteries in the combined room.

Dismantling the opening to attach the balcony

When dismantling window openings or a part of the wall for alignment, it is important to remember that in panel houses the balcony partition cannot be completely removed, since the outer wall, as a rule, is load-bearing and unification work can harm the integrity of the building. In a brick house, when combining rooms, you can remove the opening along with the window sill, but in some cases additional structural reinforcement will be required.

You can connect the balcony to the room, the photo below shows this, without removing the entire wall.

Consolidation due to the dismantled window unit

If only the window block is removed, a hacksaw and a hammer will be needed from the tools. Glasses are taken out, and cuts are made along the perimeter of the frame and knocked out.

When dismantling the wall, you need a puncher and a grinder. With their help, brick and concrete sections are removed. With this combination option, it is necessary to move the radiator. It is necessary to cut down the existing one, having previously blocked the water, and reinstall it. When combined, the room will increase its volume - additional batteries should be added.

After removing all construction debris, you can start finishing the slopes. They should be carefully plastered and leveled with putty or plasterboard. Exterior decoration of the attached premises is carried out in the same style as the room combined with the balcony. The balcony, combined with the room, the photo below, will successfully complement even the nursery.

Workplace on the combined balcony in the nursery

Threshold on attached balcony

Many people want to get one floor level when combining a balcony with a living room. But it is not always possible to remove the attached threshold. In brick houses, this element is part of the supporting structure that supports the balcony slab, and in panel houses, its removal will lead to freezing of the floor and reduce the rigidity of the entire structure. The height difference when combined can be beaten by arranging steps or a ramp. It is possible to raise the floor level to the desired threshold height, but these works are more costly and not always desirable when combined.

Advantages and disadvantages of association

The advantages of combining a balcony and a living room are:

• Increase in living space. This is true in small one- and two-room apartments.
• The expansion of the area will have a positive impact not only on the comfort of residents, but also on the market value of the apartment.
• The connection will provide additional natural light.
• Unique design. The living room will be complemented by a cozy library; in the nursery, you can make a dressing room or a playroom, and a bedroom combined with a balcony, the photo below shows this, will get an additional place for relaxation and other things - there are many options, it all depends on the needs and imagination of the owner.

The attached balcony is a great place for a dressing table

But such a reconstruction has its drawbacks:

• A long and complicated process of coordinating work on joining a balcony, requiring the preparation of a project and the collection of documents.
• It is not always possible to remove the entire wall - the threshold and window sill often remain.
• Preparation before joining the balcony and dismantling of structures require special skills.

Combining a balcony with a kitchen

Typical apartments do not differ in large area, and kitchens can accommodate only the necessary equipment and furniture. Redevelopment of a kitchen with a balcony, the photo below shows this, can change the interior both visually and functionally.

Balcony as a continuation of the kitchen - the result of a successful combination

To carry out the attachment of a balcony to the kitchen, it is enough to limit ourselves to dismantling the window block. The remaining combined section of the wall can be used as:

• Table
• bar counter
• Cabinets
• Countertops for hob, etc.

Combining a kitchen with a balcony, the photo below shows this, will help you rationally use the new area.

Combining the work area and window sill

The attached space of the former loggia can be turned into a dining room or pantry, and if the area allows, then the working area can be transferred to the balcony. When combined with the work area, it is important to consider several factors:

1. The balcony is a hinged structure and it cannot be heavily overloaded, therefore, before taking out heavy furniture and appliances, it is worth calculating the loads to the attached space.
2. Independent wiring and sockets on the balcony are not allowed, electrical appliances are connected to the network located in the kitchen itself. This can be done with an extension cord by hiding the wires in a special box or pipe.

Kitchen connected to the balcony in the photo, with a remote working area

To make the new attached zone warm, you should take care of heating. Since when combining pipes, it is impossible to bring them out to the balcony, the best solution for the combined space would be to install a warm floor or electric radiators.

The amount of furniture and equipment that can be transferred to a combined balcony depends on the area of ​​​​the room and the bearing capacity of the balcony slab, which is determined on the basis of an engineering load calculation.

On a small attached balcony, you can take out a refrigerator or equip a cooking area (stove and hood). The addition of a large loggia will allow the area to be used as part of the working area, where appliances, wall cabinets, countertops, and a sink are placed. Almost any combined balcony can be used as a dining room, placing a table and chairs on it. A sofa and armchairs will complement the place of rest when united, and family members will be able to spend time without disturbing the hostess.

The type of association and the future interior depend on the individual needs and characteristics of the balcony itself.

Registration of the threshold in the kitchen, combined with a balcony (photo)

Many apartment owners use balconies and loggias as a warehouse for unnecessary things. But after all, these premises can also be used better, for example, to combine a balcony and a room or a balcony and a kitchen. This is a completely affordable way to improve living conditions and get additional meters of usable space.

However, it is worth considering the fact that the complete combination of a balcony with a room, as well as joining a loggia to a room, is not allowed in practice, although there is no direct prohibition in this regard in housing legislation. However, there are certain standards, as well as the requirements of design institutes, that do not allow this.

Technical aspects of combining a balcony with a room

Then how to explain the popularity of this type of redevelopment, because almost everyone designed for a typical apartment in a high-rise building includes a combination of a balcony and a kitchen, or a combination of a balcony with a room - photos of such redevelopments can often be found on thematic forums and in design magazines and repair.

Really all these works are carried out? In order to explain how it is still possible to attach a balcony to a living space, it is necessary to know the reasons why a complete integration of a balcony is not allowed.

The unspoken ban on such redevelopment is explained by the fact that the room or kitchen, according to its purpose, belongs to the "warm" premises, and the balcony - to the "cold" purpose. At the same time, the general heating of the house is calculated for a certain number of warm rooms and, accordingly, is not designed for heating excess volume.

Therefore, it is far from possible in every house in an apartment to connect a balcony to a kitchen and a living room. If the house has merged balconies in just a few apartments, then such a slight change in the heated area will practically not affect the operation of the entire heating system, and the residents of the house are unlikely to notice a slight decrease in temperature. But let's imagine the situation that ALL apartment owners have united balconies and rooms.

An example of an unauthorized combination of a balcony and a kitchen, bti in red lines:

In this case, the total heated area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house will increase very significantly. Accordingly, in this case, the average temperature in the house will be much lower, since a system designed for one area will have to heat a much larger one. Which in turn can cause an overload or an accident.

Therefore, the current ones prescribe to separate the premises belonging to the "warm" type from the premises of the "cold" type.
But still, it is possible to carry out a redevelopment with a combination of a balcony and a room or a combination of a balcony with a kitchen, while yours will be considered completely legal and will be carried out in accordance with all accepted standards.

Zoning problems within redevelopment

It is possible to delimit the premises of a balcony and a room or a loggia with a kitchen using glass sliding or hinged doors in the entire height of the room. If necessary, these doors move apart and a single room is formed. At the same time, the heating battery is moved to the nearest wall, since it is strictly forbidden to take it out to the balcony area - this is one of the most serious (and common) violations in the redevelopment of balconies and loggias.

Of course, this will not be a complete combination of a balcony and a room, but rather a kind of compromise that will allow you to do and at the same time comply with all the formalities. Such a redevelopment of a balcony or loggia will successfully be approved by all housing inspections in Moscow.

Of course, with such a decision, it is necessary to take care of the correct one before combining it with the interior. Indeed, otherwise the double-glazed windows will "sweat" due to the formation of condensate, which sooner or later will lead to the appearance of mold, and in winter - an ice crust. However, this problem is solved by purchasing high-quality windows, as well as by carrying out a full cycle of work on the insulation of floors, ceilings and balcony enclosing structures.

It is worth considering the issue separately. In most typical houses, this structure is not load-bearing, but in some series it can be included in the power circuit of the building or serve as a counterweight to the balcony slab.

Many owners want, which is forbidden to touch, since in many types of houses it helps to hold the balcony slab, or closes the inter-panel joint, preventing moisture from entering it and freezing the underlying apartment.

It includes the combination of a balcony with a room or a kitchen with a loggia. Such a redevelopment gives many obvious advantages (unless, of course, your apartment has a loggia or balcony that can be attached to an adjacent room).

However, you should be aware of the rules and restrictions that apply to combining a balcony.

You can often hear the opinion that if the apartment is in full ownership, then it can be unauthorized to carry out any redevelopment, including, for example, combining a balcony with a room or kitchen.

In addition, the temptation to save money, to manage on their own in preparation for redevelopment, is also great. Many people think that in order to prepare for the unification of a kitchen or a room with a loggia or a balcony, a photo of similar redevelopment will be enough, because who better than you to know exactly how you want to equip the interior of the room, moreover, if the project has already been implemented, many believe that it may or may not be reconciled at all.

Combining a balcony and a room

The danger of this misconception is that if the work on combining a balcony or loggia is done incorrectly, with violations of building codes, this can lead to unpleasant consequences for you. The appearance of cracks on the facade wall, the dismantling of fire walls on the balcony - you will have to eliminate these consequences completely at your own expense.

What else do you need to know if you want to combine a balcony with one of the premises of the apartment? To begin with, at least about the fact that the concept of "association" of premises in this situation is very conditional.

We mean that in practice, the redevelopment project will have to include the installation of a glass partition in the place where the window sill was. Typically, such a partition is made in the form of sliding "French" doors or double-glazed windows to the floor with one door.

Why is the combination of a balcony (loggia) with a kitchen (room) not allowed without a double-glazed partition?

The fact is that at present in the capital's housing legislation (PPM 508 in edition 840) there is a clause expressly prohibiting the combination of balconies and loggias with the interior of apartments.

There is one more circumstance: the authors of house projects, such as JSC MNIITEP, also do not approve of the complete unification of these premises. But the explanation here is different - heating extra cold areas in winter will increase the load on the heating system of the building, especially if the rooms with balconies are united by the owners of several apartments at once. In the opinion of the design organization, this event, when mass-produced, leads to a violation of the thermal circuit of an apartment building.

For the same reason, the redevelopment project with the combination of a balcony or loggia with a kitchen / room will have to include a heat loss calculation (thermal engineering calculation).

It also follows from this a ban on the transfer of batteries to loggias or balconies contained in PPM 508. - heating of cold zones is not provided for by the projects of residential buildings (even if the balcony is glazed and insulated, it is still considered a "cold" room). Therefore, it is worthwhile to find in advance a place for a radiator, which was placed on the window sill before the redevelopment.

Dismantling the window sill and formally combining the kitchen with a loggia in a one-room apartment with glazing:

Frequently Asked Question: Is it possible to install between the room / kitchen and the balcony / loggiaaccordion partition ?

We answer: Not every partition in the form of an accordion can be installed when combining a room with a balcony or loggia. Today, the housing inspectorate allows the installation of accordion sliding partitions if they consist of double-glazed windows and have clear guides at the top and bottom.

An example of a correct accordion partition between a balcony and a room:

Along with this, many owners install so-called "false partitions", which have nothing to do with a full-fledged partition, the housing inspection suppresses such options as a result of a refusal to agree. Photos are presented below.

An example of a "wrong" harmonica:

As we can see, the partition consists of a single layer of glass and does not even have guides from below, which does not provide proper heating of the room in winter and negatively affects the thermal circuit of the house as a whole. To agree on such a partitionIT IS FORBIDDEN!

Coordination of combining a balcony or loggia with a room or kitchen

In order to connect the kitchen and living room balcony in the apartment , it is necessary to dismantle the window sill block. Therefore, the possibility of such a redevelopment depends on house designs . There are more problems with panel, block and brick houses: a section of a wall with a window sill can be a load-bearing or self-supporting structure and, say, you will not be allowed to cut the overhead lintel or expand the opening.

With monolithic houses, the situation is simpler - the facade walls in them are usually non-bearing and the opening can be expanded in height and width.

But in any case, no matter what the design of the house, fire safety requirements should be observed, which establish the width of the walls. The side should be at least 1.2 m, and the wall between the two exits to the loggia - from 1.6 m. This is due to the fact that the exit to the loggia is emergency.

Prohibited options for combining a loggia with a room, photo:

It is also forbidden to touch threshold, which often holds the balcony slab, or closes the interpanel joint, or simply protects the apartment from freezing (in typical panel houses).

An interesting redevelopment, during which a large loggia was simultaneously combined with a room and a kitchen, having dismantled two window sill blocks. The project included reinforcement of openings with metal structures.

.

Until recently, it was not required to issue a TZK for the dismantling of a window sill, but now most housing inspections require it to be provided, even for monolithic new buildings.

The redevelopment project with the integration of the balcony can develop an architectural designro with SRO approval, - on the basis of the above technical report.

In order to start registration, you need to prepare the following documents:

• floor plan with explication
• a copy of the title documents for the apartment

Together with these documents, you will need to provide the Housing Inspectorate with:

• redevelopment project for combining a balcony and a room or kitchen, developed by a licensed design organization, or by the design organization that developed the project for your house series
• application for redevelopment

Only after a written permit is received from the Housing Inspectorate, you can begin work on combining the balcony and the kitchen or room.

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How to make capital insulation of the loggia yourself

It just so happened in our country that the apartment is repaired first of all, and almost all available funds often go there. As a result, most owners decide to do the insulation of the loggia with their own hands. At one time, I also had to step on this rake, but as optimists say, everything that is done in this world is done for the better. Now I know how to insulate the loggia with my own hands, and in this article I will try to describe this whole process for you in as much detail as possible.

General, fundamental rules

Before doing any work in a multi-storey building yourself, it would be useful to find out a number of fundamental things, the failure to comply with which can subsequently lead to quite serious troubles.

Loggia or balcony

Until I came across the arrangement of the loggia, I did not know that almost the majority of our respectable citizens had a rather vague idea of ​​how a loggia generally differs from a balcony.

So, a loggia is considered to be a reinforced concrete slab of interfloor overlapping extended beyond the facade wall, which is supported on both sides by capital walls. The length of the structure depends on the layout of the housing, but most often it is 6 meters or 4 meters.

The loggia can capture one or two rooms at the same time, but in any case it cannot be less than the width of one room along the front wall.

In turn, the balcony is only part of the extended floor slab. Often its dimensions are smaller than the width of the adjacent room. And the most important difference is that it does not have side bearing walls. The balcony is held only due to the strength of the slab, respectively, its bearing capacity is much lower.

In stalinka and Khrushchev, according to SNiP standards, the maximum load of 1 m² of a balcony slab does not exceed 200 kg. And now let's calculate:

• The area of ​​a standard balcony fluctuates around 3m², which is 600kg maximum;
• A capital parapet made of hollow facing bricks or aerated concrete will weigh at least 150 kg;
• About 100kg more will be modern glazing;
• The screed, facing sheets, plaster and the weight of the insulation itself, in a circle, will be about 200 kg more.

In total, the correct insulation of the balcony will weigh around 450 kg. If you add to this the weight of balcony furniture with tools or flower pots, then you will inevitably wonder whether it is worth messing with such insulation at all. Plus, such balconies are already more than half a century old, which means their strength is even lower.

The bearing capacity of the slab on the loggia is approximately 2-3 times higher than that of the balcony. The loggia received these characteristics thanks to the side load-bearing walls. Therefore, in fact, the options and methods of insulation here can be anything.

Combining a loggia with a room

Now many owners, in pursuit of usable space, decide to combine a loggia or balcony with a room. As for the balcony, here I would not advise doing this at all. First, you will never get official permission for such work. And secondly, as I said, it is too risky due to the low bearing capacity of the balcony slab.

The easiest way is to organize the connection to the room in houses built according to the P44T project. In the people, such a project is called free planning. There will be no barriers from the regulatory authorities.

In standard typical skyscrapers, it is not difficult to convert a loggia into a living space. The whole problem is in these very controlling bodies. One of my acquaintances found out for a long time whether such an association is redevelopment and what is needed for this.

As a result, he was tired of fighting with officials, he simply insulated the loggia and removed the balcony block (doors with a window). He turned the curbstone with the one based on it into an impromptu bar counter. Now the room and the panoramic loggia combined with it resemble a studio apartment. As it turned out, this is quite an acceptable option and it is not considered redevelopment.

Before you do anything with the front wall, you need to get permission. And in this case, the most important "permits" are officials from the BTI. If there is no permission, then as long as you live in an apartment, everything will be in order, but if you want to sell it, problems with registration will begin.

Loggia insulation process

Now it's time to talk about how to properly insulate the loggia. For those who decide to do everything with their own hands, step-by-step instructions are the key to success. Therefore, I will continue to try, based on my own experience, to paint everything to the smallest detail.

Glazing of the loggia

Previously, in such places, as a rule, light home-made wooden frames with one glass were installed. At that time, there was simply nothing else. And it was very problematic to get a standard wooden frame with two glasses, plus it did not fit in size. Such a miracle of Soviet design stood on my loggia.

To equip any kind of insulation with such frames is a stupid and useless task. Therefore, thinking about where to start, I decided to dismantle the old frame and put in its place a modern plastic version with double-glazed windows.

I didn’t have any problems with dismantling the old frames, but I want to warn you: if there are such frames on your loggia, then first pull out the glass from them. And only after that you can remove the frames themselves. Otherwise, glass falling from the top floor can cause a lot of trouble.

After calling the measurer, do not hesitate to “get it” with questions and ask him to explain his actions to you. The fact is that at one time I relied on the professionalism of a person, and as a result, frames were delivered to me 200 mm shorter than the window opening.

There is one nuance here. As the guys who came to install the windows told me, the width of the support should be at least 50 mm and such a platform is installed strictly horizontally.

In my case, there was an ordinary, still Soviet, thin-rolled parapet. Plus, this parapet was skewed, the collapse at six meters was about 100 mm. As a result, I had to pay extra to people for the installation of the fiftieth corner.

Although if the parapet is concrete or brick, then consider yourself lucky. It is much easier to install frames on such capital structures. But in any case, you need to consult with those who will install.

Again, based on my own experience, I want to give one more piece of advice. If the loggia is long and the apartment is on a high floor, it is better to divide the entire structure into several sections. I had 2 sections of 3 meters each and these windows had to be raised on the seventh floor for about three hours. It's good that the time of delivery was agreed in advance, so you would have to pay more for this.

Parapet installation

As I said, the ideal option is when you initially have a capital parapet provided for by the project. I had to "fence" almost everything again. The first thought was to cut the grate to the supporting corner under the window frames and lay out the parapet of aerated concrete or facing bricks.

Facing brick is certainly beautiful, but to lay it, you need to be a bricklayer, you can’t do it randomly here. With aerated concrete, everything is much simpler, since it has clear shapes, and most importantly, it is mounted not on a cement-sand mortar, but on building glue.

But here another problem came up. It turns out that aerated concrete needs to be plastered with high quality from the outside, otherwise it will be saturated with moisture and begin to actively collapse. Plus, its warming qualities will disappear completely.

To plaster aerated concrete, hanging over the parapet with my own hands from the outside, and on the seventh floor, I honestly did not dare. It’s not that I didn’t know how to plaster at all, it’s just that you never know, working at height is a dangerous thing.

As a result, I settled on clinker panels without insulation, I really liked the look of beautiful brickwork. A clinker panel is a sheet trimmed with clinker tiles, in my case it was brickwork. Asbestos cement or waterproof OSB is taken as the basis. Of course, you can take a panel with insulation, where polyurethane foam is taken as the basis, but it costs almost half as much.

Since the support corner for the window frame was pushed a little beyond the lattice metal parapet, I horizontally fixed 4 rows of wooden bars from the outside and from the inside of the lattice. They then became the supporting frame for exterior decoration and interior insulation.

Outside there was a bar 30 mm thick, from the inside a bar 50 mm thick was installed. Plus, from the inside, between the horizontal bars, with a step of about a meter, I mounted vertical guides. The whole structure was pulled together and fixed with long self-tapping screws and metal clamps. Vertical and horizontal bars were fixed with corners between themselves.

Clinker panels are assembled as puzzles of the designer, the front part is solid. I screwed the panels themselves to the wooden crate with self-tapping screws with a press washer. Plus, to be sure, I fixed each panel at 3-4 points to the old metal lattice parapet.

For this, I used U-shaped iron clamps with a removable jumper. Self-tapping screws and clamps on the outside later smeared with grout. It is quite simple and it is not visible between the clinker tiles.

At the end, I blew out all the cracks from the inside with mounting foam. As a result, I got a solid facade in the form of an ideal brickwork. By the way, manufacturers of such outdoor panels give a guarantee on their product for 30 years.

If you don’t feel like messing with the parapet, you can do without the parapet at all. In this case, the fence is cut off completely, and, roughly speaking, a large plastic window frame is mounted instead. This is done by the same companies that deal with windows and this design is called “French Balcony”, but the price of such pleasure is solid.

A few words about the choice of insulation

The question of what is better to insulate the loggia is quite controversial. In general, there are several main contenders, but it all depends on the size of the budget and the desire to work independently.

• The classic and still the most beloved by the people material is polystyrene with a density of 25kg / m³. It is lightweight, not afraid of water, quite easy to install, and most of all, naturally, the low price of polystyrene attracts.
  In my opinion, the only drawback of polystyrene is its flammability, but to tell the truth, most of the heaters used in such structures suffer from this drawback;

• Mineral wool is also relatively cheap.. Previously, glass wool was used, but this is a poor choice, it is afraid of water and quickly cakes. Plus, for its installation, you need to wear gloves and a respirator. Otherwise, the glass will go into the skin, and you will itch for a long time.
  It is much easier to mount soft mineral wool mats, such hard protection is no longer needed with it;
• But if you buy, it is best to opt for dense basalt slabs, this material, if necessary, can even be plastered. Although remember, any cotton does not burn, but is afraid of moisture;

• The most fashionable material today is extruded polystyrene foam or Penoplex, as we call it. In essence, this is the same foam, only made using a different technology. But if the foam is considered a partially vapor-permeable material, then its extruded counterpart is an absolute waterproofing agent.
  Its thermal conductivity is one third lower, which means that where foam plastic 50 mm thick is mounted, extruded polystyrene foam 30 mm thick can be used.
  But personally, I like Penoplex for its high mechanical strength. This material is used to insulate the roadway, so it can easily be laid dry or wet for the floor;

• At the moment, the most expensive in the market of heaters is polyurethane foam.. This is a liquid insulation that can be sprayed onto a surface with any geometry. As a result, you get a solid insulating shell, without any gaps or cold bridges. This coating has excellent sound insulation.
  According to its characteristics, polyurethane foam is somewhat similar to extruded polystyrene foam. The problem is that in addition to its high cost, polyurethane foam can only be applied using special compressors, you cannot do it yourself;

Ignorant people are often offered to insulate the loggia with penoizol instead of polyurethane foam, it is sprayed in the same way as polyurethane foam. So I do not advise you to do this.
Behind an incomprehensible, tricky name, ordinary polystyrene is hiding, with the only difference being that it is sprayed in liquid form, and accordingly, they will ask for a lot of money for this. And why pay more if you can buy foam sheets and do practically the same thing, only at least 3 times cheaper.

• For reasons of economy, people sometimes insulate the floor on the loggia with expanded clay granules. Expanded clay is a porous, foamed and fired clay. In principle, the thing is good, but expanded clay is a loose material and is only suitable for the floor. In addition, he is afraid of moisture, and the worst thing is that the thickness of such an embankment starts from 150 - 200 mm. Accordingly, it can only be used in apartments with high ceilings;

• There is also such a “smart” insulation as penofol. This is a sheet of foamed polyethylene, coated on one or both sides with foil. In its structure, penofol partly resembles foam rubber. But the thickness of this material is only 10 - 15 mm. Therefore, in our case, it can only be used as an auxiliary, additional insulation.

In general, I believe that insulation should be comprehensive, only then it will be reliable and effective. That is, you can not rest on only one type of insulation, it needs to be supplemented with something.

Insulation of the facade parapet and load-bearing walls

For reasons of economy, I used 50 mm foam boards for the walls and ceiling. Of course, it would be better to mount extruded polystyrene foam, but it is about 2-3 times more expensive.

And the easiest way out is to call specialists, pay and let them fill everything with polyurethane foam, but I didn’t have so much money at that time, apartment repairs “ate” all the reserves.

As you remember, we have already assembled a 50 mm thick wooden beam frame. Now it remains to cut the foam sheets clearly according to the size of the finished niches and insert them there as tightly as possible, and fill the remaining small gaps with mounting foam.

But the coefficient of thermal conductivity of wood is several times higher than that of polystyrene, so the wooden frame will be a kind of cold bridge.

By and large, one could not pay attention to this, but we do it for ourselves, therefore, with the next layer, I fixed the foil penofol with a continuous sheet along the entire inner surface of the parapet. Moreover, penofol must be fixed with foil inside the room, so the reflection of heat rays will be an order of magnitude higher.

As a finishing cladding, I chose a wooden lining. Accordingly, under it, I needed guides. To do this, I fixed another bar with a section of 30x40 mm on top of the penofol directly on the horizontal frame wooden beams.

The fact is that the minimum thickness of the bearing bars for a wooden crate is 25 mm, if you take it thinner, they can crack when you hammer in nails or screw in screws.

In addition to wooden lining, plastic or MDF panels can be mounted on such a crate. In general, everything you like, if desired, even drywall for plastering.

If instead of foam you choose basalt wool slabs, then the sequence will be slightly different. As I said, any cotton wool is afraid of moisture, so before installing it, you will need to fix the waterproofing layer.

After all, we have a clinker panel on the outside, and foil penofol on the inside. Both of these materials are vapor-tight. Accordingly, instead of expensive vapor barrier, you can safely put cheap technical polyethylene. The rest of the warming cake will be the same.

As for the walls, a wooden beam of 50x50 mm is also stuffed on them. After that, foam sheets are inserted, penofol is applied, the supporting crate is attached under the lining, and then the lining itself goes on. Naturally, polyethylene will have to be additionally laid under the cotton wool.

Ceiling insulation

The ceiling can be insulated in two ways. One thing I have already told you about. It is done in exactly the same way as we insulated the side walls.

Only wooden bars are attached to the ceiling with anchors, and the foam is not only inserted into niches, but also additionally glued to the ceiling. Then everything is as usual, we apply penofol, fix it with a counter crate under the lining and sew up the ceiling with a lining.

But I decided to go the simpler way: in this version, a wooden crate is not provided at all. The foam sheets here are simply glued to the reinforced concrete ceiling slab. These plates are absolutely even, so fixing problems, as a rule, do not arise.

Styrofoam can be glued to Liquid Nails, mounting foam or Ceresit CT83 construction adhesive. But in all these cases, it is desirable to cover the concrete slab with soil a couple of times.

• Glue "Liquid Nails" is sold in tubes adapted for a construction gun. This glue must first be smeared on a sheet of insulation, attach this sheet to the ceiling and immediately tear it off. Then the glue should dry a little for 5 to 7 minutes. After that, the sheet can be glued finally;
• Mounting foam is applied to the insulation in an arbitrary pattern and immediately applied to the ceiling. But this sheet will have to be pressed against the ceiling several times with an interval of 10 - 15 minutes. It is well known that the foam expands and until this process is completed, the sheet will move away from the ceiling;
• My favorite is the Ceresit CT83. This is a dry mix that is diluted with water, the instructions are on the package. Initially, it was created for gluing Penoplex, but since these materials have the same base, this mixture is also well suited for foam. It is applied with a notched trowel with a comb depth of up to 10 mm.

After I glued the styrofoam to the ceiling in a continuous layer, blew out the gaps with foam and the glue finally set, I decided to plaster my ceiling over the styrofoam. This is not difficult to do, the sequence of work is something like this:

1. Initially, on top of the foam, with the same comb spatula, I applied a layer of Ceresit CT83 glue. You can use the starting putty, but under it you will need to apply primer to the foam;
2. Until the glue hardened, I gently drowned a sickle (reinforcing fiberglass mesh) into it with a spatula;
3. After that, holes with a depth of 30 - 40 mm are made through the insulation with a perforator in a reinforced concrete slab. For each sheet, approximately 4 - 5 pieces;
4. Plastic dowels-umbrellas are inserted into these holes and fixed tightly in them. Such a dowel consists of a plastic body with an umbrella and a central rod. So, first, the dowel body itself is inserted all the way, and then the central rod is clogged;

1. At the last stage, a layer of finishing plaster is applied.

If you have a problem with plastering, and you are too lazy to attach a wooden crate under the lining, then you can make it even easier. In this case, the sheet of foil foam foam is simply glued to the foam.

If you decide to glue penofol to foam, carefully choose the glue. The instructions should indicate that it is suitable for these materials. Otherwise, penofol or polystyrene can corrode the solvent contained in the adhesive.

Floor insulation

Finally, we got to the arrangement of the floors. This stage is considered one of the main ones. The easiest way out is to install a wooden crate, lay insulation in the cavity and sew it all up with a floorboard. But such a “pie” will take at least 70 mm.

I wanted to make the floor as thin as possible, plus install an electrical "Heat Floor" system under it. Therefore, I decided to do without the crate, and took high-strength extruded polystyrene foam as the main insulation.

Previously, I had linoleum on my balcony, so removing it and cleaning the concrete slab to perfect condition was not a big deal. In my case, the plate turned out to be even, if the situation is different with your floors, then you will have to fill in a small screed. Penoplex is laid only on a perfectly flat surface.

If you do not have the proper experience in leveling the screed, then it is better to buy self-leveling compounds. They, of course, will cost more than a cement-sand mortar, but you don’t flood the hall, but just a loggia, you don’t need much material for it.

Before any insulation, the reinforced concrete floor of the loggia must be waterproofed. As a waterproofing, I used technical polyethylene. It is covered with a solid ball with entry to adjacent walls, just above the level of the finish coat. Then the excess is cut off.

Now it's time to install the penoplex. There is nothing complicated here. Penoplex sheets on the sides are equipped with docking grooves, as a result, the flooring is smooth and beautiful.

Underfloor heating can be equipped in different ways. If you have official permission for redevelopment and the loggia is equipped for living quarters, then it would be best to lay a water-heated floor and power it from the outlet of the radiator, which you will remove when you demolish the cabinet under the window block.

There are 2 types of electric underfloor heating, film and those that use a heating cable. Mats with a heating cable, as well as pipes of the water system, should be laid in a screed. I didn’t want to carry dirt and fill the screed, so I chose a film floor.

Film floors are laid quite simply. A foil material called isolon is laid on the previously laid extruded polystyrene foam. As far as I understand, this is one of the penofol derivatives.

Further, the heating elements themselves and the temperature sensor are laid on top of the isolon. The control panel is mounted on the wall nearby. From above, everything is covered with plastic wrap and you can proceed with the installation of the laminate.

The good news is that the complete set of such a system includes all the material, down to the smallest detail. I even had a CD with a video instruction. How to independently mount such a system is shown in the video in this article.

According to the rules, laminate planks should be mounted along the loggia. But no matter how hard I tried, the locks did not fit together well and constantly diverged. In the end, I left this hopeless task alone and mounted the laminate across the loggia. Fortunately, the slats just fit in size, I even had to trim a little.

Conclusion

I don't consider myself a real builder. And if I, possessing only the general skills of working with a traditional home tool, was able to make a major insulation of the loggia with my own hands, then it means that you can do it too, the main thing is not to be afraid. The photo and video in this article provides additional material on the topic. If you have any questions or have something to add, write in the comments, we'll talk.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Stylish design has many options, and in many cases, redevelopment of the room is indispensable. To understand for yourself which of the options is closer, consider with a balcony in various options.

Training

Starting redevelopment in the apartment, you need to seek the help of a professional architect. It will help to correctly determine the boundaries so as not to hurt the load-bearing walls. As soon as the issue of redevelopment is resolved, it is necessary to proceed with the insulation of the balcony, combined with a rectangular room.

Option one: pefonol

Insulation of a new "generation", made of aluminum foil and foamed polyethylene. Penofol is not only an excellent means for thermal insulation, but also an excellent hydro and sound insulator. Penofol is produced in rolls, 3-10 mm thick. Its main advantage is space saving. Aluminum tape is used to glue the pieces.

Option two: foam

This type of insulation has been used in construction for a very long time. It is still popular today, primarily because of its low price. Styrofoam is produced in sheets with a thickness of 2-9 cm. The principle of operation is as follows: pieces of foam are placed between the lags, the cracks are foamed, then the finish coating is laid.

Option three: foam

Expanded polystyrene foam has thermal insulation properties. Among its main advantages are low vapor permeability, chemical inertness, ease and convenience in use. This material is more expensive than all the others and is produced in sheets of 2-5 cm thick.

Option four: mineral wool

This porous material is obtained from fiberglass, after it is melted, drawn, cooled and crushed. Mineral wool is not afraid of moisture and retains heat well. The main drawback of the material is manifested during installation - cotton wool is prickly. But unlike other heaters, it is able to penetrate into any gap.

Redevelopment of a room with a closed loggia

Combining a rectangular room with a closed loggia is the best solution for a large family. Additional meters can be used as a playroom, office or mini-studio. Warehouse or pantry on the balcony is no longer relevant. Designers offer more functional solutions. For example, place a winter garden or a small gym on additional meters. The style of the room can be anything.

Ways to combine rooms in a panel house:

• dismantling only the balcony frame;
• dismantling of the frame and wall.

Most often, in a panel house, only the frame is dismantled, and the builders decorate the remaining brick ledge under a bar counter, a partition with shelves, or equip an aquarium on the ledge. It not only divides the room into functional zones, but also pleases the owners and guests.

If the room in the house is very small, then you can increase its area by completely dismantling the adjacent wall. In place of the partition, you can create drywall structures, for example, decorative shelves. In recessed niches, you can place a mirror and lights to visually push the walls apart.

Nuances

When combining a bedroom with a loggia, it must be borne in mind that:

• double-glazed windows must be at least 3-chamber (high-quality windows provide good heat resistance, sound insulation);

• the dismantling of the walls is carried out only after the analysis of the building;

• it is desirable to insulate the walls from the outside with foam sheets.

Decor

It is not enough just to combine two spaces, you also need to think over the design of the living room with a loggia in a panel house. The rectangular shape of the room is not very convenient for combining. When its width is no more than 2.5 meters, and its length is more than 5, combining with a balcony will lead to serious architectural errors. In a long but narrow room, a person will feel uncomfortable. A wall-high mirror will help correct the situation. It is necessary to attach two canvases on parallel walls, but not opposite each other. The wider the mirror, the longer the room will appear. And so that guests do not accidentally damage it, it is necessary to install a floor vase with flowers or furniture.

Other redevelopment options

Combining a balcony with two rooms, such as a living room and a kitchen, is an interesting solution. In this case, there will be a place for a dining room. Combining a balcony with other rooms is functional and convenient, as it becomes possible to move from one room to another.

You can arrange a French balcony. It will not only help to increase the space of the bedroom, living room, but also add more natural light. Floor-to-ceiling window frames visually raise the ceiling, so this technique works in an apartment with low ceilings.

To enhance the effect of height, it is necessary to stretch a glossy film of a light or dark shade so that the window is completely reflected in it. Any elements that can reflect, if properly placed, will create coziness and comfort in a small apartment.

Redevelopment is not the only way to change the overall look of a rectangular room with a balcony. Properly selected accessories and a combination of finishing materials (wallpaper, decorative plaster) can also transform a room.

Decoration Materials

To decorate a rectangular room connected to a loggia, you can use different materials.

• Tiles can be laid on the pre-insulated floor of the balcony. It will serve as insurance in the cold winter and for the period of turning off the heating. The flooring in the room can be laminate or linoleum. But you can also use floor tiles. Firstly, under it you can mount a warm floor, and secondly, such a coating is suitable for rooms with high traffic.

• Photo wallpapers of the new generation will help to cope with the task of changing the perception of a rectangular living room in a panel house. It is worth choosing canvases depicting three-dimensional figures in 3-D format, panoramic paintings or perspectives. Properly selected photo wallpapers will not only visually push the walls apart, but will also be the highlight of the whole apartment. Guests will appreciate the non-standard approach to the design of the premises.

• The liquid wallpaper. They can be used in any room. They are easy to apply, non-toxic, do not cause allergies, and do not drip off the wall if wet. They have good air permeability, while retaining warm air indoors. Therefore, they can be safely used in loggias.

Color design

To visually enlarge the space, you should use warm colors in interior design. The passage from the room to the loggia should not be difficult or cluttered. The correct arrangement of interior items will help to solve the problem. Bulky wardrobe and upholstered furniture should be further away from the aisle. When developing a design, you should create a compositional center with a TV. In a rectangular room, all pieces of upholstered furniture should be located near one of the walls.

Conclusion

You can decorate the rooms in the house beautifully and comfortably for any amount. The main principle of any repair is the need to adhere to a single style, then the whole room will look harmonious. Modern repairs will not be so difficult if construction specialists will take care of it.

How to beautifully combine a room and a loggia (3 videos)