Greenhouse: how to build it yourself - theory, designs, schemes, manufacturing principles. Winter greenhouse: do-it-yourself Strong greenhouse with your own hands

Can be assembled with minimal effort. Therefore, today we will discuss the best ideas on how to make greenhouses with your own hands. We will show the best projects in photosets and master classes.

The first and most important thing, how a greenhouse differs from a greenhouse, is the lack of heating in the winter. The greenhouse structure is purely seasonal. However, in the southern regions, where the temperature is above zero all year round, greenhouses are constantly used.

There are several varieties of them. The most popular and easy-to-make greenhouses of the "Agronomist" type. Although such structures have different names, the design variation does not change - a simple low frame made of plastic pipes or wood, dug into the ground. On top of this design is covered with a film. Frames are made for reinforcement.

More "serious" designs are greenhouses with a sash opening mechanism. There are several varieties -, "Chest". All of them are shown in the photo below.

Also popular among gardeners are full-sized greenhouses for growing tall plants seasonally. Outwardly, they resemble greenhouses, but the main “ingredient” is missing - the heating system.

Related article:

Standard dimensions, what the design is, its advantages and disadvantages, the materials used in the manufacture, the features of the independent development of the drawing and the assembly of the polycarbonate greenhouse - read our publication.

Overview of winter greenhouse projects for do-it-yourself construction

In fact, you can make heated greenhouses and for giving your own hands, you can absolutely any configuration. The main thing is that there should be a complete tightness of the structure and be present. Also, another condition is the arrangement. It is desirable that it be monolithic and raised above the ground by at least 15 cm.

The best cladding material for such greenhouse structures is glass or polycarbonate, which is more affordable and easy to process. At the same time, it keeps heat indoors more efficiently, which can also lead to stale air. Therefore, even at the design stage, it is necessary to think over not only the heating system, but also for the winter period.

Overview of the best projects for a do-it-yourself greenhouse heating device

The first thing to know about heating a greenhouse with your own hands is that not only warm air is important for plant growth. Therefore, the best projects involve ground heating, which will also provide more comfortable conditions. Consider what are the options for heating greenhouses:

- the simplest and most economical heating system in the device. Great for ground heating. But his device is more suitable for buildings located near the main house.
Electricity- a very expensive way of heating, if we consider it in a variation of the heat supply from. Another thing is if a pump organizes a heating system that works with water, soil or air. If there is a body of water nearby, then it is best to use the “water-water” scheme. "Soil-water" is the most expensive option, but also effective. “Air-water” is cheaper, but it is tied to climatic conditions. In frosts from -25 ° C, the system fails.
Gas- Another common method of heating greenhouses. And the cheapest, which may not seem at first glance. But there is one caveat, when heated with gas, a large amount of carbon dioxide is emitted, so there is a risk of burning the air. Therefore, the system is always arranged for .
biofuel- the most economical and easiest way to do-it-yourself heating. In the process of decay, heat is released, which is necessary for the growth of plants. Humus is simply laid under the ground, and after a few months it is updated. True, in the northern regions of the country this method is not enough. You can use it for small areas of greenhouses.

The video below will tell you how to choose the best way to heat a do-it-yourself greenhouse.

What is the "skeleton" of greenhouses and greenhouses made of?

Frames for both greenhouses and hotbeds are made of the same materials:

Wood- not the cheapest option, but reliable with proper design and processing. So that the frame does not rot, it is necessary that the tree does not come into contact with the ground, it is about 30 cm higher above it. Painting and varnishing is also required. But remember that wood is still an organic material that will shrink in a couple of years, dry out, and you will have to make repairs. Slowly moving away from the role of the main frame material for greenhouses and hotbeds.
Metal- a more reliable option for the frame. Apply both strips and profiles, painted or galvanized. Minus - the severity of the frame and the obligatory device of a good one. Perhaps the most expensive material for the frame of the greenhouse system.
plastic pipes- relatively recently they began to make various objects and spatial figures. As the main frame material for greenhouses and greenhouses, such pipes have shown themselves well - they are easy to process, light in weight, flexible, and the ability to manufacture even complex structures. They also need a foundation and additional reinforcement of the structure. Of the minuses, it can be noted that only films and a maximum of polycarbonate can be used as a covering material. Glazing such a frame simply will not withstand.

You can buy a polycarbonate greenhouse only with a metal frame. Manufacturing enterprises do not make such structures from pipes. This is the fate of perhaps "handy gardeners."

Polycarbonate is an ideal material for making simple greenhouses and winter greenhouses with your own hands.

A polycarbonate greenhouse today is incredibly popular. How did such material deserve people's love? There are several reasons why you should choose, which the video after the description will also tell about:

a honeycomb structure filled with air makes polycarbonate a heat-retaining covering material;
light transmittance;
flexibility - you can sheathe a frame of any shape;
accessibility of installation - easy to self-processing and installation on simple fasteners - self-tapping screws, bolts;
durability - the service life can be up to 20 years;
not exposed to atmospheric influences;
resistance to mechanical damage;
relatively inexpensive material.

Is polycarbonate the ideal building material? No, as we know, everything in this world is imperfect. One of the main disadvantages is flammability, under the influence of fire, and simply high temperature, it begins to melt.

Also, professionals in crop production, despite all the seductive advantages of polycarbonate, try to bypass it due to its high reflectivity. If there is one, then less light will pass inside. If this is not critical for greenhouses, then for professional greenhouses it is a real disaster.

Also, polycarbonate does not "breathe" at all. This, of course, is a definite plus - a stable warm and humid microclimate develops inside the greenhouse, as plants love. But, on the other hand, they also vitally need fresh air in any weather. This problem is solved by installing vents and others, walls and doors. However, if such a greenhouse is not opened for a long time, then the plants there can simply die from stuffiness.

Polycarbonate is a popular type of building material with a wide variety of species. And not every type is suitable for sheathing a finished structure. What you need to pay attention to:

Only honeycomb sheets are suitable, since they retain heat better due to the additional air gap, which is not present in a monolithic material.
Also pay attention to cells. Usually they are square in shape, but it is better if each of them also has a diagonal partition, which provides additional rigidity to the sheet.
It is also better to give preference to the usual transparent material, since it has the largest percentage of light transmission. Colored sheets can absorb it by 60%, which will only destroy the plants in the greenhouse.
Be sure to pay attention to UV protection, as prolonged exposure to the sun can warp polycarbonate. If the manufacturer claims that it is, but only inside, this means that its level is minimal. Sheets on which there is a protective film, with the recommendation of the manufacturer of mounting the sheet with a certain side outward, are the guarantor of the protective layer.
The optimal thickness for the device, both greenhouses and greenhouses of various modifications, is from 4 to 10 mm with a crate step of 700-1050 mm. These are the optimal characteristics that allow you to build reliable structures.
Also of great importance when choosing such a material is its specific gravity. The greater the weight of the sheet, the higher its density, which means that the strength will be greater. The optimal density is from 0.7 kg / m 2.
High-quality material does not allow any, even the smallest defects on the surface. Also, the stiffeners should go strictly in straight lines, no waves or zigzags.
If the sheets were stored correctly, it means that their quality percentage did not fall. Proper storage - the location of even sheets in a horizontal position. If the polycarbonate was on edge or wrapped in rolls, it is better not to take such material.

Related article:

. Dimensions, prices of products from leading manufacturers, characteristics, varieties, pros and cons of different designs, features of assembly and use, user reviews - read our publication.

The foundation is the head of everything, or when you need a foundation for greenhouses and greenhouses

The foundation sounds proud and solid. But is it needed when arranging greenhouses and hotbeds? It depends directly on the type and size of the structure. When building a mini-greenhouse, for example, "Khlebnitsy", laying the foundation is not required. Someone just puts such a structure on the ground. But this is not always advisable, since such polycarbonate structures are relatively light in weight. Therefore, it is recommended to mount it on, which, if necessary, are dug into the ground. Small ones are improvised, and are completely mounted without a foundation. For structural rigidity, it is preferable to “mount” the arches on pre-dug ones.

Today at the peak of popularity are growth arched greenhouses made of polycarbonate. In fact, the weight of such a structure measuring 3 × 6 meters is 100 kg. This means that approximately every square meter of the structure experiences a load of 10 kg. By construction standards, this is just a “ridiculous” load, which is not even taken into account in the calculations. But guided by the unpredictable climate of our country and the experience of summer residents, such greenhouses are blown away by a good gust of wind. No, not to the Emerald City, of course, the maximum to the neighboring site. But such an unplanned flight can cause a lot of damage. Therefore, when constructing large greenhouses, it is best to make full-fledged foundations on or sand blocks.

And, of course, a solid foundation is simply necessary for stationary greenhouses. Firstly, it will remove the load and distribute it evenly throughout the structure, which guarantees a longer service life. Secondly, even during a hurricane, the building will remain in place. And, thirdly, the foundations prevent the freezing of the soil, additionally the soil. Bases are made from those materials that are convenient to work with, and even more economical in a particular case, bricks, blocks, concrete monolith or tape, and even screw piles.

Attention! The type of foundation for greenhouses is chosen in the same way as for the main buildings - primarily by the type of soil.

Article

Every summer resident and owner of his own house, sooner or later, has a desire to have a good greenhouse on his site. After all, everyone knows that vegetables and herbs from their own greenhouse, besides grown with their own hands, are much tastier and healthier than purchased ones. Therefore, someone follows the path of buying a finished greenhouse. Someone buys a disassembled greenhouse and assembles it on the site as a constructor. But a considerable part of gardeners want to build a greenhouse with their own hands. After all, everyone knows: if you want to do something well, do it yourself.

How to build a greenhouse with your own hands? To begin with, let's figure out what types of greenhouses are. This is important for choosing the future design and material of the greenhouse.

Winter and summer greenhouses

All greenhouses can be divided into two large groups: winter and summer. They differ in the presence of a heating system in a winter greenhouse, which allows you to grow plants in such a greenhouse all year round. The summer greenhouse is designed for faster ripening of fruits and protection of plants from accidental frosts.

Winter greenhouses are usually more solid than summer ones. They build them closer to the house, sometimes even attaching them to the south side of the house. So they are closer to the heat source. Winter greenhouses are almost never made from film. The heating system can either be connected to the heating system of the house or be autonomous. For this, an oven is made in the greenhouse.

Video review of a self-heating winter greenhouse

Arched, single-pitched and double-pitched greenhouses

Everyone chooses the type of roof for the greenhouse based on the location of the greenhouse. As well as your personal preferences. We can only suggest the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

shed roof they usually choose by attaching a greenhouse with their own hands to the house. This type of roofing is simple in construction, economical. Under such a roof, you can make an inexpensive, but solid base from a wooden beam or a metal profile pipe. The disadvantage of this roof is that snow will accumulate on such a roof.

gable roof, like a lean-to, it can have a cheap and durable frame. It is a little more expensive than a single-sided one, but more aesthetically pleasing. But snow will also accumulate on such a roof. Consider this factor when choosing a roof for a greenhouse.

Types of greenhouses. Video review

And finally arched roof. A very popular type of roofing and deservedly so. Economical, quickly built, he won his niche very quickly. In combination with cellular polycarbonate, such a greenhouse has almost all the advantages. It does not collect snow, it is very resistant to winds and the dispersion of sunlight in it occurs naturally. The only drawback may be a frame for this type of roof. Making a strong and reliable frame will be more expensive and more difficult than for previous types of roofing. Let's talk about frames for greenhouses with our own hands.

Types and materials for the frame of the greenhouse

We continue to answer the question of how to build a greenhouse with your own hands. If you decide to build a greenhouse on your site, have chosen the type of roof for your future greenhouse, now you need to think about choosing a material for the greenhouse frame. What to build a greenhouse from?

The greenhouse frame can be made from:

tree
metal

wooden frame

Timber frames are very easy to work with. The tree is easy to process, it can be used to build a greenhouse of almost any kind. The disadvantage of such construction will be the susceptibility of the tree to decay. Therefore, the entire timber before construction has to be treated with special impregnations.

Greenhouse made of wood and film. Video building instructions

Metal

In order to assemble a metal frame, good skills are needed. After all, the metal will either have to be welded or bolted. Such a frame for a greenhouse is very expensive. But it is very durable, reliable and will last for decades. Such a frame is suitable for a capital greenhouse.

Video of building a glass and metal greenhouse

Plastic

Today, the construction of greenhouses from plastic pipes is gaining popularity. This type of construction is relatively cheap, even beginners can do it. Moreover, such a construction will not take much time. The disadvantage of such a frame is its low strength. Over time, plastic pipes bend, the greenhouse loses its shape. Therefore, as a capital structure, such a frame is not suitable.

Video how to make a greenhouse from plastic pipes and film

Greenhouse cover

The materials for the walls and roof of the greenhouse are very diverse. Each has its pros and cons. Let's look at them in more detail.

glass
film
agrofibre
cellular polycarbonate

DIY glass greenhouse

How to build a greenhouse with your own hands? If you want to build a capital and durable greenhouse with your own hands, then a glass greenhouse is a good option. Moreover, such a greenhouse will not necessarily be expensive. After all, it can be built from.

Many people, when replacing old wooden windows with plastic ones, simply throw the frames into the trash. So you can get the material for your greenhouse for free. You just have to process the wood of the window frames and fasten them together. You will even have windows and vents ready to ventilate the plants on hot days.

Video review of a greenhouse from old window frames

However, do not forget that glass is a heavy material. Therefore, the foundation of such a greenhouse should be appropriate. It must be recessed, or . Or you can make a slab foundation and divert water from under it.

DIY film greenhouse

Such a greenhouse, although it requires frequent film changes, is still common. Because the film is easy to mount and it is cheap. In addition, with careful attitude, it can withstand several seasons. It is not suitable for a do-it-yourself winter greenhouse, but it copes very well with the functions of a summer one.

An ideal design option for a film greenhouse would be a frame made of plastic pipes curved by an arch. Such an arch is built in one day, it is cheap and even one person can handle it. The arch is closed with a film. And for the winter it can be removed. It is possible to modernize such a greenhouse somewhat if agrofiber (geotextile) is used instead of a film.

Do-it-yourself agrofibre greenhouse

Can be used as a do-it-yourself greenhouse covering material. It passes water and steam well. Your plants will be irrigated with rainwater and will be able to "breathe" freely. White geotextile provides enough light for plants, and at the same time will not let the sun's rays burn the foliage. Such a greenhouse needs less ventilation than those made from other materials. Agrofibre is a durable material, unlike film. You can use it for many years. It does not tear, is not afraid of piercings, stretches well. Today, this is a good alternative to film.

Step-by-step video instructions for making agrofiber greenhouse

Do-it-yourself cellular polycarbonate greenhouse

Do-it-yourself such greenhouses are made for all types of roofs and frames. They are both arched and single-gable. Polycarbonate is attached to both wood and metal. They are covered with frames made of plastic and aluminum pipes. In general, this is a universal material for building a greenhouse with your own hands. When choosing polycarbonate, pay attention to its thickness and weight. Choose sheets with a thickness of 4 mm. Better than 6-8 mm. In addition, the sheet should be heavy enough. Do not forget that polycarbonate cannot be mounted in a horizontal position. The condensate in the combs must be free to roll and flow out. Otherwise, polycarbonate will quickly become overgrown with algae and lose its transparency.

How to make a polycarbonate greenhouse on a metal frame. Video

We hope that our article helped you in choosing the type of your future greenhouse and we answered the question of how to build a greenhouse with your own hands. Share your thoughts and questions in the comments to the article. We are very interested, but what kind of greenhouse did you make with your own hands?

Purpose

Like a greenhouse, a greenhouse is used to create a favorable microclimate in the preparation of seedlings or in the full-fledged cultivation of tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage and other plants.

In a broad sense, both structures are perceived as one and the same, although in fact a greenhouse is a small and unheated structure. A greenhouse is a larger building with a heating and ventilation system that allows you to grow many crops at any time of the year.

Design

In terms of their structure, greenhouses are quite simple. A frame is assembled from pipes, metal or wood, which is covered with film, polycarbonate, glass, acrylic and other light-penetrating materials. If the weight of the structure is very large, it is additionally installed on the foundation.

For ventilation, removable panels or opening transoms are provided. Heating is carried out using water heating with radiators, infrared heaters or hot air from heat sources outside the greenhouse.

Installation

Since sunlight is vital for plants, it is necessary to build a greenhouse on the south side. It is advisable to place it on a slope and closer to other buildings in order to protect it from the wind and have access to utilities. It is better to stay away from high fences and trees: they give a shadow, and falling leaves reduce light transmission.

youtube.com

Assembly difficulty: low.
Foundation: not required.
Price: low.
Variations: the frame can be replaced with plastic pipes, and the covering material with a film.

The simplest design option, which is ideal for a small greenhouse. A frame made of reinforcement is installed directly on the bed, and agrofiber or, as it is also called, spunbond, is stretched over it. Such material protects from the sun, while retaining heat and moisture.

1. The dimensions of such a greenhouse are chosen arbitrarily, depending on the footage of the available materials. For example, it is convenient to cut a six-meter rebar in half. With such a length of arcs, the width of the greenhouse is about 80 cm. The arcs themselves should be installed in increments of 1.2–1.5 m.

teplica-exp.ru

2. Arcs are bent from reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm. Next, drip irrigation pipes or an old hose are put on them, leaving 10–20 cm from each end, so that it is convenient to insert the structure into the ground.

ebayimg.com

3. After marking the places for installing the arcs, cuttings of steel pipes or drilled wooden pegs 20–30 cm long are driven into the ground, and reinforcement is already inserted into them.

stopdacha.ru

4. Spunbond can be sewn on a sewing machine, forming folds-pockets that are worn directly on the arcs. Another option is to install plastic pipe guides on the sides of the beds and attach the agrofibre to them using purchased clips or cut pieces of pipes. As a result, the covering material can be easily lifted by simply removing them.

stblizko.ru

5. If desired, you can fasten the arcs not to pipes hammered into the ground, but to metal guides rigidly fixed along the edges of the base. This design will allow you to fold the greenhouse like an accordion, simply by shifting the arcs.

must.kz

6. The free ends of the spunbond at the ends must be collected, tied in a knot and secured with a peg, earth or in another way.

samara.kinplast.ru

Here are step by step video instructions.

dachadecor.com

Assembly difficulty: low.
Foundation: not required.
Price: low.
Variations: instead of a film, agrofiber can be used, and the door can be made on a wooden frame.

A budget version of a greenhouse made of masonry mesh and ordinary film, which is quickly assembled and has a number of advantages. The design does not require a foundation, due to its elasticity it is resistant to wind loads, and is also convenient for tying plants from the inside. At the same time, by folding the grid, you can get different sizes depending on your needs.

As load-bearing posts, a wooden bar, steel corners, pipes or a channel are used. They are slaughtered at a distance of 1.2–1.4 m.
The arch of the greenhouse is formed from two pieces of mesh overlapped. From below, it is attached with a wire to the posts, and from above it is fastened together with the same wire or plastic ties.
To strengthen the structure in the middle of the passage, T-shaped supports made of wooden beams 50 × 50 mm are installed. If desired, they can also be hammered into the ground.
A film is put on a dome assembled from a mesh, which is held by strings of twine or rope stretched over it.
The side walls are also made of a film that is tucked up and attached to the dome with adhesive tape. In several places, small windows are cut at the top and bottom for ventilation of the greenhouse.
The door is made on a wooden frame or is made from the same film, which is cut and attached to the side wall with magnets in the manner of door mosquito nets.

stroydachusam.ru

Assembly difficulty: average.
Foundation: not required.
Price: low.

Another way to build a greenhouse in haste. A wooden beam is used as a frame, and packaging stretch film serves as a covering material. With a large number of layers, it transmits light a little worse than ordinary PVC film, but on hot days this is even a plus.

The film is sold in rolls, so the dimensions of the greenhouse are selected according to the cutting of the timber and taking into account your wishes.
For the base, steel corners 40 × 40 mm are used, in which holes for attaching the frame racks are pre-drilled. They can also be treated with bitumen or painted to extend their service life.
The corners are hammered into the ground, and pieces of timber are screwed to them with self-tapping screws. In turn, the lower frame is attached to the beam, on which the side walls and the roof are assembled. All corners are reinforced with additional inclined pieces of timber.
The door is assembled on a wooden frame in one of the side walls and mounted on hinges.
Film wrapping is carried out in parts, moreover, in several layers and overlapping. First, the gables are installed, then the roof slopes, and only then the walls. You need to start wrapping them from the bottom so that the flowing rainwater does not get inside the greenhouse.
After winding with a glazing bead or a river, the door and its outer contour of the door are upholstered, and then the film around the frame is cut through. In the same way, you can make a window in the opposite wall.

teplica-piter.ru

Assembly difficulty: average.
Foundation: desirable.
Price: minimum.
Variations: you can combine frames with foil to make a roof, side walls or doors out of it.

The main advantage of this design is its low cost. Old window frames can be found, if not for free, then for a symbolic price. In addition, glass transmits light much better than film and polycarbonate. The windows already have vents for ventilation, and if you pick up a balcony block, there will also be a finished door.

The dimensions of the greenhouse depend on the size of the frames and the interior space you need. Aim for a width of about 2.5 m to get a passage of about 60 cm and two beds of 80-90 cm.
Windows, together with glass, have considerable weight, so it is advisable to install them on a solid foundation. It can be a shallow strip foundation, a massive wooden beam or a metal profile.
A wooden frame or pillars are installed on the foundation at the corners, and frames are already attached to them and to each other. The gaps between each block are covered with putty and clogged with laminate substrate strips or a thin wooden lath.
A door is made in the front wall. Its role can be played by one of the windows, a balcony door or a wooden frame covered with foil. Ventilation is carried out through the windows.
To reduce the weight of the roof, it is better to make a wooden beam and film. You can use all the same window frames, but in this case you will have to reinforce the structure with props in the middle of the passage so that it can withstand a lot of weight.

maja-dacha.ru

Assembly difficulty: average.
Foundation: not required.
Price: low.
Variations: the film can be replaced with agrofibre or polycarbonate

A greenhouse made of polypropylene pipes attracts with its simplicity, reliability and low price. Materials are sold at any hardware store, and assembly does not require any special skills or tools. You can even do without a soldering iron if you connect the pipes not with fittings, but with through bolts.

As usual, sizes are selected based on needs and available materials. Polypropylene pipe is usually sold in 4m lengths and is easily cut and spliced with couplers.
The first step is to calculate the length of the pipe and the number of fittings needed. It is better to take with a margin, so that later you do not have to run the store.
The main parts are soldered from the pipe, tees and crosses - arches with crossbars and longitudinal inserts.
Next, a greenhouse is assembled from the prepared parts. If a soldering iron is not at hand, you can use bolts with nuts and washers to connect, which are inserted into the pipes drilled through.
The film is fixed on the ribs of the frame with the help of purchased clamps for pipes or home-made clips from pipes cut along sections of a slightly larger diameter.

legkovmeste.ru

Assembly difficulty: average.
Foundation: not required.
Price: low.
Variations: the film can be replaced with agrofibre or polycarbonate.

The classic version of the greenhouse, used for decades and not losing its popularity. The wooden beam is easily processed, has a small weight and sufficient strength, and also retains heat well. The design does not need a major foundation - you can get by with a frame made of a larger beam or use steel corners as a base.

The standard cutting of a beam is 6 m, so they are repelled from this figure. Most often, greenhouses are made 3 × 6 m, but if desired, the dimensions can be both reduced and increased. The finished project with material calculations is available at this link.
The assembly of the frame is the same as that of the stretch film greenhouse. Steel corners are hammered into the ground at intervals of about 1 m at the points where the racks are attached. In each of them, two holes are drilled for self-tapping screws or one for M8 or M10 bolts.
On the corners around the entire perimeter, vertical racks are fixed, which are tied with an upper contour of a beam. To stiffen the corners, one jib is added on each side.
Opposite the racks, triangular roof trusses are installed and fixed. The slope angle is selected depending on the snow load. So, if there is a lot of snow in your area, the angle of inclination should be more (the roof is higher and sharper).
The door and window for ventilation are knocked down on wooden frames and installed in the front and rear walls, respectively.
At the end, the frame is covered with a film, which is attached to the timber with the help of a rail stuffed over it. All sharp parts on the wood are rounded or covered with a soft material so that the film does not tear during operation.

Assembly difficulty: high.
Foundation: necessary.
Price: high.
Variations: the foundation can be made of a wooden beam or steel reinforcement, a corner or pipes hammered into the ground can be used.

The most popular and modern version of the greenhouse. Such designs are much more expensive than others, difficult to manufacture, but will serve for decades. Polycarbonate withstands in the open sun for 10–12 years, and the frame made of profiled steel pipe is almost eternal.

1. The standard size of polycarbonate is 2,100 × 6,000 mm, so it is convenient to cut it into four or two parts with a size of 2.1 × 1.5 m or 2.1 × 3 m, respectively. Such pieces will be optimal for a greenhouse measuring 3 × 6 meters.

2. For reliable fastening and distribution of wind loads, a foundation is made under the greenhouse. This can be a strip shallow foundation, a frame made of an antiseptic-treated wooden beam, or steel corners hammered into the ground.

YouTube channel Evgeny Kolomakin

3. The structure of the greenhouse consists of an arch, which is formed with the help of arcs from a profiled steel pipe 20 × 20 mm, located at a distance of one meter from each other.

4. The arcs are fastened together by longitudinal sections from the same pipe, which are connected by welding.

5. A door is arranged at the front end: a frame measuring 1.85 × 1 m is welded from the pipe, which is attached to the frame on hinges. A ventilation window measuring 1 × 1 m is made according to the same principle and is located in the rear end.

6. Covering with polycarbonate starts from the ends. The sheet is cut in half, attached to the profile with special self-tapping screws with thermal washers, and then cut along the arc contour with a sharp knife. After that, sheets of side walls are installed.

techkomplekt.ru

Assembly difficulty: average.
Foundation: not required.
Price: low.

A simpler and more affordable version of a polycarbonate greenhouse. It does not use an expensive metal pipe that needs to be welded. And as a frame material, galvanized profiles for drywall systems are used. They are easily cut with scissors for metal and fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws.

When choosing sizes, as usual, we start from the parameters of polycarbonate sheets. Since the profiles lose their rigidity when bent, it is better to stay not on an arched, but on a gable greenhouse.
By analogy with arcs from a metal pipe, a galvanized profile frame is assembled from ribs in the form of a house.
The assembled modules are mounted on a frame made of wooden beams and tied together with sections of profiles. Doors and a window for ventilation are made in the front and back walls.
At the end, the frame is sheathed with polycarbonate sheets, which are fastened with special self-tapping screws with plastic thermal washers.

juliana.ru

Assembly difficulty: high.
Foundation: necessary.
Price: high.
Variations: to facilitate the design, you can make the top of polycarbonate or film.

The most correct, but rather time-consuming and expensive version of the greenhouse. The main trump card of glass is excellent light transmission and durability. However, due to the heavy weight of the structure, a strong metal frame and foundation are required. In addition to arranging the strip foundation, the difficulty also lies in the need to use welding.

In the matter of choosing sizes, a glass greenhouse is no exception - everything is strictly individual and taking into account the materials available.
The impressive weight of the glass and metal frame requires a full foundation. Usually, a trench 30 cm deep and 20 cm wide is dug around the perimeter, a wooden formwork 20 cm high is installed on top and all this is poured with concrete. Also, before pouring, anchor bolts are inserted into the formwork to secure the frame.
A metal channel or corner is attached to the resulting base with the help of anchors. Then racks 1.6–1.8 m high are welded to this frame from two folded corners 45 × 45 mm. On top they are fastened with longitudinal segments of the corner.
Next, rafters from the same double corners are placed on the resulting box. At the bottom, they are welded to the uprights, and from above, to another corner that acts as a ridge beam.
A door is inserted into one of the walls, and a window for ventilation is arranged in the lid or wall.
Glasses are installed in the frames obtained due to the use of double corners and fixed with self-made hallmarks - plates made of thin aluminum or steel bent in the shape of the letter Z. With one hook, the gluer is attached to the corner, and with the second - to the glass.

pinterest.com

Assembly difficulty: high.
Foundation: desirable.
Price: high.
Variations: the film can be replaced with polycarbonate or glass, and the frame can be made of a profile or pipes.

A domed or geodesic greenhouse attracts primarily with its unusual appearance: it entirely consists of many triangles and hexagons. Other advantages include high structural strength and the best light transmission. The disadvantage of the geodesic dome is one - the complexity of manufacturing.

The dimensions of such a greenhouse are selected individually, based on the required area. Since the frame structure is quite complex, the calculations are the most time-consuming part of the project.
In order not to get confused and take into account all the nuances, it is convenient to carry out the calculation using a special calculator. In it, you can set the dimensions, select the "density" of the frame and get a list of all the necessary parts for assembly with dimensions, as well as their approximate cost.
Regardless of the dimensions, the domed greenhouse is highly durable and is not afraid of the winds, so it is not necessary to make a foundation for it. However, since the construction of a structure is very labor-intensive, it is rational to extend its service life and equip a light strip foundation for attaching the frame.
The ribs of the structure consist of triangles, which, in turn, are assembled from a wooden lath according to a template. First you need to prepare the required number of such triangles.
The greenhouse is being assembled as a magnetic constructor from childhood. Starting from the bottom, rows of triangles are assembled one after another, which are fastened together with self-tapping screws and form a dome. If everything is calculated correctly, it will close on top and will be perfectly correct in shape.
One of the triangles in the roof is made folding or removable to provide ventilation. The door is either installed in the shape of a polygon, or made in a traditional shape with a mortise box.
The film covers the finished dome or is stretched over each triangle at the assembly stage. In the first case, it will be easier to replace the film when it breaks. The second one gives a more aesthetic look. Which one to choose - decide for yourself.

Many owners of private houses dream of having a greenhouse on their plots. This agrotechnical facility will help the owners provide their family with greens and some types of vegetables already in late spring or early summer. Well, some greenhouse designs, involving heating and lighting systems, are used to grow crops all year round.

A do-it-yourself greenhouse can be built of wood and brick in combination with metal elements, have a frame structure, for example, made of lightweight metal-plastic pipes.

When implementing the idea, the place where the greenhouse will be installed is first determined. The size of the future structure directly depends on its area.

Next, you need to decide when this structure will be used - only in the spring or throughout the year. If the "winter" option is chosen, then you need to know that the construction will cost much more, since it will require more materials, and it will also be necessary to carry out lighting, heating, plumbing and ventilation.

Then, it is necessary to choose the material of manufacture and the type of greenhouse construction. To focus on one of them, several of the most commonly used options will be considered.

Varieties of greenhouses

The design of greenhouses, in principle, is not very complicated, so any owner of the site can build it on their own. To do this, you only need to prepare the material and tools. Greenhouses can be divided into types, based on various criteria - this is the material of manufacture, the shape of the structure, whether it will be stationary or temporary.

Greenhouse covering material

Several different types of materials are used to cover greenhouses. They should be transparent, may have shades favorable for plant growth. For example, which has become especially popular recently, sometimes not only colorless transparent is chosen, but also a yellowish or green tint.

The KINPLAST company offers high-quality cellular polycarbonate for greenhouses. The material has excellent technical and operational characteristics. KINPLAST is the leading manufacturer of polycarbonate in the domestic market. The line of cellular polycarbonate includes brands such as WOGGEL - a material created in collaboration with foreign colleagues; SKYGLASS - universal polycarbonate with excellent characteristics at an affordable price; as well as specially designed grades of polycarbonate for use in agriculture AgroTITAN.

Often glass is used to cover the walls and roof of the greenhouse. In terms of its structural structure and transparency, it is excellent for this room, but for the installation of glazing, it is necessary to create a particularly reliable, durable frame structure, since this material has a considerable weight. Capital winter greenhouses are sometimes erected from metal-plastic frames and double-glazed windows, but such a structure will be extremely expensive.

Another option that is most often used to cover greenhouses is plastic wrap. It can be used for pulling on a frame erected from any material, as it has a very small mass. Recently, a special reinforced film has appeared on sale, which is more durable, and it is easier to fix it on the frame crate.

To determine the choice of material, you need to carefully study its performance characteristics, which are presented in this table:

Material evaluation parameters	Cellular polycarbonate	Glass	Film
Miniature
Mount and weight	It is light in weight and can be used in certain structures without additional frame elements, as well as without a foundation.	Glass has the heaviest weight compared to other covering materials, and when choosing it, it will be necessary to think over a reliable frame installed on the foundation.	Polyethylene has a very small mass, but requires special fastening. If the material is not reinforced, then it is fixed to the frame through special rails and additionally fixed with thin stretched ropes.
Durability	Polycarbonate as a greenhouse cover can last 18÷25 years, depending on its quality. This material is flexible and has sufficient rigidity to be an element of a self-supporting structure. Fixed to the frame, it does not deform and does not warp.	Glass can last a long time, as it is not affected by ultraviolet rays and moisture. On the other hand, glass is a brittle and inflexible material, therefore it does not tolerate mechanical stress, heavy loads and deformation of the frame structure.	Polyethylene has the shortest service life compared to other coating materials, as it is exposed to ultraviolet radiation, from which it gradually collapses. In addition, it cannot be called resistant to temperature extremes.
Noise isolation	Cellular polycarbonate well muffles the noise of wind and rain, thanks to its structure.	If the installation of the material is performed poorly, then during a strong wind gusts of air can penetrate inside, and the glass will ring.	The film will not protect the greenhouse from noise, and if the wind is very strong, the material will rustle a lot in the wind.
Appearance	Polycarbonate gives the building an aesthetic appearance and is able to make an ordinary greenhouse a real decoration of the territory.	Properly installed glass will give the greenhouse a neat appearance.	The film looks neat and remains transparent only for the first season of its use, and even then - not always. Then, under the influence of the sun, temperature changes and wind, it becomes cloudy and loses its aesthetic appearance and light transmission.
Safety	Polycarbonate has high strength, exceeding that of glass by about 200 times, and also lighter by about 15 times. When falling, the material does not break and cannot injure people inside or near the greenhouse with fragments.	Poorly installed glass is extremely dangerous for people working inside. In addition, if the fragments fall into the soil of the greenhouse, then you can seriously injure yourself during the subsequent tillage. Therefore, if the installation of glass is planned, then it is recommended to entrust its installation to professional craftsmen.	It is completely safe for people and for the soil of the greenhouse.
Care	It is easy to take care of this material - it is enough to wash it with water, setting a strong pressure in the hose. However, it should be noted that the dust on the surface of the polycarbonate is almost invisible, so the greenhouse does not have to be washed often enough.	Traces of raindrops remain on the glass, and dust is also well retained. To get rid of dirt on the surface, you need to make a lot of physical effort. It is especially uncomfortable and dangerous to carry out cleaning activities on the greenhouse roof.	The plastic film is not washed, because after wet cleaning, stains remain on it, and it becomes cloudy, which makes it difficult for the full penetration of light inside. The only way out in case of severe pollution is a complete replacement of the film.
Created microclimate	Polycarbonate is able to reliably thermally insulate the greenhouse and protect plants from the wind. Vapors deposited on the inner surfaces flow down them into the soil. In addition, the material not only perfectly transmits light, but also makes it softer and more diffused. The heat generated by the soil and plants is reliably stored indoors, which creates the greenhouse effect.	Glass is not able to create high thermal insulation, if it is not metal-plastic structures with double-glazed windows. The material perfectly transmits light, but does not scatter it, and sometimes even focuses on a specific bed, which is extremely harmful to plant leaves.	A dense new polyethylene film is capable of creating high thermal insulation, but over the season, under the influence of temperatures, sun and wind, it becomes thinner and loses its original qualities. Therefore, it is recommended that the film coating be changed every year.

After weighing all the "pluses" and "minuses" of materials, as well as taking into account the design of the intended structure, it will be possible to make a choice of the type of coating.

Greenhouse structures

Greenhouses have various designs - it can be a spacious room or just a large box covered with a glazed frame. Structures are also used, half of their height going into the ground. It will be possible to stop your choice on one of the varieties only after the owner understands the features of each.

The simplest greenhouse design, which can be built from improvised materials, consists of an ordinary box, for example, 2000 × 1500 mm in size, assembled from boards and installed in a favorable area of \u200b\u200bthe local area. For such a greenhouse, old ones are often used as a roof.

Such greenhouses are usually used for growing seedlings or greenery from early spring to late autumn.

Another option that is simple and affordable in the construction of a greenhouse is a simple frame structure made of metal-plastic or polypropylene pipes, fittings, and sometimes even thick steel wire, covered with plastic wrap.

If plastic pipes are chosen for the greenhouse, then even women's hands can make a frame out of them, since this material bends quite easily and keeps its shape well.

A similar version of the greenhouse can be used throughout the spring-summer season, from spring to late autumn. The convenience of the design lies in the fact that by planting seeds under the film, for example, tomatoes, after germination and strengthening, the seedlings can not be transplanted. It is simply thinned out, and when a stable and comfortable temperature for plants is established on the street, the film is removed from the structure, opening the free flow of air and sunlight. In very hot weather, a special mesh can be quickly thrown over the created frame, creating partial shade, but allowing light to penetrate to the plants in the right places.

A more complex structure, which is assembled from a wooden beam and covered with a film, can also be used throughout the spring-summer season. The dimensions of such a greenhouse can be different - they vary on how many seedlings are planned to be planted, and taking into account the convenience of the gardener.

In this design, a swivel roof is necessarily provided for access to the plants of sunlight and air. This is also a seasonal version of the structure, and it is advisable to use it only for growing seedlings, since in stable summer temperatures it is recommended to grow vegetables and herbs in open ground.

Video: homemade greenhouse on a wooden frame with film coating

If you want to grow a small amount of greenery or seedlings, then you can make a greenhouse from a metal barrel, in which slots are made in the form of windows. A transparent polyethylene film is used as a roof in this design - it can be removed at any time by opening access to air, and if necessary, closed so that the night coolness of the off-season does not harm the plants.

A more complex greenhouse design, in which it is already possible to install moderate heating and start using it in the very early spring. It consists of a wooden or metal-plastic frame. This is already a full-fledged room, and in it not only plants, but also the gardener will be protected from wind and low temperatures. Such a greenhouse can be covered with a very dense plastic film or cellular polycarbonate. When creating a pipe structure, you need to remember that it will turn out to be quite light, and a strong wind can move it from its place, damaging the seedlings, therefore, to bind it to a place, it is necessary to drive metal corners or reinforcement into the ground.

An interesting solution - the frame of the greenhouse is welded from very inexpensive polypropylene pipes and accessories for them.

The capital structure of the greenhouse, equipped with heating and irrigation, can be used throughout the year. In order for such a greenhouse to work effectively, it is usually made of metal-plastic or aluminum structures and double-glazed windows, which are installed on the foundation.

This greenhouse is already a real capital structure

To make it easier to provide heating and water delivery to the greenhouse, quite often such structures are attached to the southern wall of the house. In this case, the building will serve as a kind of winter garden, which at any time of the year will delight the owners not only with fresh vegetables and herbs, but also with the color of ornamental plants.

Sometimes greenhouses are attached to the south side of the house, and they become real "winter gardens"

Another option for a winter greenhouse, the design of which helps to save on heating, is a room that extends half its height into the ground. This building, due to its high energy-saving qualities, is often called a "thermos greenhouse". To achieve the desired effect, a foundation pit is dug for this greenhouse, going deep into the ground by 1600 ÷ 2000 mm. Additionally, walls 500 ÷ 700 mm high are erected above the soil surface, and then the entire structure is covered with a frame made of timber or a metal corner.

The work on the construction of a building is quite laborious and lengthy, but during its operation it will be possible to save enough on its heating system. One of the important points in the construction of a thermos greenhouse is the arrangement of not only a heating system, but also effective ventilation.

greenhouse roof shape

The next criterion by which greenhouses are subdivided is the shape of the roof. Insolation largely depends on this, that is, high-quality lighting of the room, and hence the creation of optimal conditions for growing plants.

gable roof

Greenhouses with a gable roof can most often be found in suburban areas, since it is this form that contributes to the effective illumination of the room from above. Given the correct location of the greenhouse, the sun will “work” all day from sunrise to sunset, contributing to the growth of plants.

"Classic" option - gable roof

Therefore, this design is often used to create winter options for greenhouses, since at this time of the year the plants experience a shortage of sunlight.

arched structure

Arched structures are made of metal-plastic pipes or metal elements. The first is usually covered with a polyethylene film, and the second option is most often covered with polycarbonate. Metal structures can be purchased ready-made, and they will only have to be assembled on the site. Well, a frame made of metal-plastic pipes is quite easy to make on your own.

The convenience of such a greenhouse lies not only in its maximum illumination, but also in the fact that snow masses and water do not accumulate on the arched roof, which means that the coating will not be subject to deformation due to heavy load. Again, it will not be necessary to climb to a height to remove snow from its surface.

shed roof

One of the common options for a "serious" greenhouse is a strip foundation.

Under it, according to the marking, a trench digs, having a depth and width of 300 mm.
Since the walls of the greenhouse are not as heavy as those of residential buildings, a foundation depth of 300 mm is sufficient to withstand relatively small loads.
Above the ground, the base can be raised to a height of 200 to 500 mm, depending on whether the foundation will serve as walls or they will be made of brick.
A sand cushion 50 ÷ 70 mm thick is laid and rammed into the finished trench, a layer of the same thickness is poured on top of it, and crushed stone is distributed.
A formwork of boards and timber is fixed along the trench, into which roofing material is laid, which will become an excellent waterproofing for the foundation.
In the next step, the formwork is filled with concrete, it is distributed, and then pierced with a bayonet spade and gently tapped on the formwork to remove air from the solution.
If the frame will be made of a metal corner or it will be needed to fix the wooden bars, then sometimes the support posts or pieces of the corner can be immediately embedded in the foundation.

The basis for the greenhouse-thermos

For a thermos greenhouse, it is necessary to dig a deep enough pit, and if you plan to arrange an agrotechnical structure of a large area, you will have to use specialized equipment, since such manual work will take a lot of time.

After marking the site, it is recommended to remove the top layer of fertile soil from it. After removing the soil, they pile it up, because it is perfect for laying a finished greenhouse in the beds.
When digging a pit, among the layers, you can stumble upon clay, which also should not be mixed with the rest of the soil, as it can be useful for waterproofing walls or making adobe blocks for warming a greenhouse.
The pit is deepened so that the gardener working in the greenhouse feels free, and there is a lot of free space above him. In order to maintain the desired temperature in the greenhouse, and the soil does not freeze, it is recommended to deepen the pit by about 2000 mm.

If the pit is not deep enough, then you will have to raise the side walls, as it will be ideal when the total height of the pit will correspond to the growth of the gardener.

The width of the greenhouse is usually from two to five meters. If the room is made wider, then it will quickly cool down, and a large amount of electricity will be required for lighting and heating. In addition, the construction of a transparent dome would be too complicated.
When digging a foundation pit, a descent ramp is arranged on one side of it, where, along with the erection of walls, a ladder of several steps and an entrance door to the greenhouse will be installed.
To begin work on ennobling the walls, a base is made under them. To do this, a trench is dug around the perimeter inside the pit. After that, a formwork is arranged in it and in the same way as in the case already considered, a strip foundation is poured.
After the foundation is ready, you can proceed to lining the walls with bricks or foam blocks. When laying, one or two ventilation pipes are immediately installed in the wall opposite the front door, at a height of 400 ÷ 500 mm from the floor.

The ventilation pipe is brought out and raised above the ground by 1000 ÷ 1500 mm.

Separately, it must be said about the masonry, since in this case, it is produced in a special way.

- To save on insulation, instead of bricks or foam blocks, which are not cheap, you can use clay extracted from the pit, which is mixed with chopped straw and adobe bricks are formed from this mixture.

- If there is no desire to waste time, and there is an opportunity to purchase foam blocks, which are called fixed formwork, then you can immediately get "bricks with insulation." The blocks are hollow, and they are filled as they are installed on top of each other with concrete mortar. Choosing the latter option, you will need to separate the foam wall from the soil surface of the pit with roofing felt or plastic wrap.

After the solution in the blocks hardens, a film or roofing material is hooked onto it, and the gap remaining between the waterproofing material and the soil wall of the pit is filled with clay or a mixture of clay and soil, and when filling, it is periodically tamped.

- If a brick is chosen for wall decoration, then it is insulated from the outside with the help of foam, which is mounted between the brick and soil wall. Thermal insulation material must also be protected or roofing material. The resulting gap, as in the first case, is filled with soil.

If the walls rise above the ground by 400 ÷ 600 mm, then they also need to be insulated and waterproofed. If desired, the wall protruding above the ground can be finished with a decorative coating - it can be clinker tiles or plastic lining for outdoor use.
If the walls are not high, then after waterproofing they can be sprinkled with a layer of expanded clay, which is covered from above with corrugated board, fixed to the top of the wall. The corrugated board will provide an outflow of water that will drain from the greenhouse cover and keep the walls dry.

wooden foundation

Another material for the foundation can be wood, or rather, a wooden beam, having a section size of 100 × 150 or 150 × 150 mm. Such a foundation is suitable for a greenhouse that is used seasonally - from spring to autumn.

In order for such a foundation to serve for a long time, the wood must be treated with antiseptic and water-repellent compounds and installed on a sandy, well-packed pillow. Another option is to raise it above the ground using concrete slabs.

Construction of a thermos greenhouse

The installation of all greenhouses takes place in different ways, depending on the type of construction and the period of use of the structure, since the "winter" options require a more thorough approach and additional functions. Probably, it is worth considering this, the most difficult option.

After the walls are ready, you can proceed to the installation of the frame under the greenhouse cover.
The frame is mounted from a metal profile or a wooden beam.

The first step is to attach a 100 × 150 mm beam to the walls of the greenhouse. Fixation is carried out by anchor fastenings or using embedded embedded elements.
The rafter system must be assembled from a bar of the same section as the strapping. To install the rafter legs on the harness, marking is carried out, since the rafter pairs must be distributed at the same distance from each other.
The rafters are fixed to the strapping with metal corners, and in the upper part they are interconnected using metal plates or using a ridge board.
Wooden bars of the crate are fixed to the rafters, but with a fairly large step. There should be no more than two or three of them for each slope so that they do not block the sunlight.
Polycarbonate sheets are laid on the crate, which are fixed to it with the help of special fasteners with bushings and rubber gaskets to prevent the possibility of leakage.

Having completed the fastening of the covering material to the slopes, it is mounted in the same way on the gable parts of the roof.
After that, the door frame and the door itself are installed. It is desirable that the door leaf also be equipped with a transparent insert.

Creating optimal conditions for plants in the greenhouse

Thermal insulation of the greenhouse

In a greenhouse with a gable roof, one of its slopes must necessarily go south. The second side inside the greenhouse is recommended to finish. Such a system will help not only to keep warm, but even increase the illumination inside the structure, since the sun, falling on the insulation foil, will be reflected into the room.

The insulation is fixed on the rafters with self-tapping screws, then it is bent onto the wall and glued to its surface using liquid nails. In the same way, all the walls of the greenhouse are insulated, only the transparent southern slope is left uninsulated, and the western end transparent side of the structure can be left.

It should be noted that foil polyethylene foam is an excellent vapor barrier membrane, and is able not only to enhance the lighting of the greenhouse, but also to keep water vapor and carbon dioxide inside it, which are the main nutrient medium for photosynthesis, which determines the growth and development of plants.

In order for the heat not to leave the greenhouse, it is necessary to create a reliable tightness of the greenhouse space. To do this, it is imperative to install doors or valves on the ventilation openings, on which it will be possible to set the desired gap as necessary or close them completely.

Greenhouse heating system

2. The coefficient of infiltration depends on the difference between the external and internal temperatures in the greenhouse. You can use the following table:

3. The temperature inside the greenhouse (indicated in the formula t1), is usually taken equal to:

For growing seedlings - + 25 ° С;
For the normal development of vegetable beds - + 18 ° С.

If some exotic plants are grown, then the corresponding values are taken.

4. Outside temperature ( t2) are taken based on the results of meteorological observations in a particular region - the minimum during the coldest week during the planned season of using the greenhouse.

5. Thermal conductivity indicators ( wtp), that is, the amount of thermal energy that is transferred to the outside by a coating of 1 m² with a temperature difference of 1 ° C, depends on the type of material and its thickness. The table below shows the values for the most commonly used materials for covering stationary greenhouses:

Material	Thermal conductivity (W/m²×°С)
Glass:
- thickness 4 mm;	5.82
- thickness 6 mm;	5.77
- thickness 8 mm;	5.71
Polycarbonate sheet monolithic:
- thickness 4 mm;	5.33
- thickness 6 mm;	5.09
- thickness 8 mm;	4.84
Polycarbonate honeycomb sheet:
- thickness 4 mm;	3.6
- thickness 6 mm;	3.5
- thickness 8 mm;	3.3
- thickness 10 mm;	3.0
- thickness 16 mm;	2.4

Having all the necessary data, it will not be difficult to calculate the required electric heating power of the greenhouse. Even easier - use the online calculator below.

Many summer residents and gardeners are so accustomed to their own grown products that they strive to get fresh vegetables throughout the year. To realize such a desire, the farmer will need to move to the highest level of gardening skill - to build a greenhouse. A do-it-yourself greenhouse erected on your own site is really a great achievement, which, however, will require a lot of work, knowledge and resources. In addition, depending on the needs, not only the type of greenhouse will change, but even its location, size and shape.

How to build a greenhouse with your own hands? A step-by-step construction demonstration will be shown later in this article.

Advantages of greenhouses

In order for a little-informed gardener to fully realize and appreciate the value of a greenhouse, and in the future to figure out how to make a greenhouse with their own hands, a number of main advantages should be highlighted. Of course, each type of greenhouse also has individual properties, but some common series of outstanding characteristics still stands out:

Tightness of a design, for maintenance of a temperature condition;
Ease of installation and, if necessary, dismantling of some types of structures;
Durability;
Polygonal greenhouses are able to absorb the maximum number of sunlight;
Environmental friendliness;
Aesthetic appearance that allows you to fit into the environment of the winter garden or landscape design.

This is only a small part of the advantages that do-it-yourself greenhouse construction has. It should be noted that often, in addition to cost, such greenhouses have much more advantages than store options. But first you need to figure out how to build a greenhouse with your own hands. However, any greenhouses have some common disadvantages that should also be highlighted:

Corrosion or decay of the structure;
Instability and vulnerability to weather factors (hail, strong wind);
Uneven air heating.

To build a greenhouse on the site with your own hands, maybe even a person far from construction. It is enough to carefully select the materials, carefully build the greenhouse with your own hands, and follow the rules for maintaining the structure during operation. However, those who decide on such an event, first of all, will need to decide on the type, materials, dimensions, shape and installation location. About how we build a greenhouse with our own hands, we will consider the phased preparation process below.

Types of greenhouses

Today there is a wide variety of various types of greenhouses. We make a greenhouse with our own hands and determine its type according to the following criteria and selection priorities.

Operating criterion

First of all, the farmer needs to decide how it is planned to operate the greenhouse: all year round or seasonally. This will make it possible to understand whether the design of the greenhouse will be collapsible or not, and in addition, winter greenhouses have a more complex structure and are demanding on operating conditions.

By location relative to ground level

If you decide for yourself that I am building a greenhouse with my own hands, then the most traditional option is to place the greenhouse directly on the surface of the soil. In the case when the greenhouse structure is planned to be heated, it can be deepened into the ground, and also be a house adjoining structure. If necessary, a special foundation can also be laid. In some cases, a greenhouse is built on the top floor of an existing object: a house, a garage, a barn.

By functionality

Everything here is determined by what exactly the gardener plans to grow, especially if it is a do-it-yourself greenhouse. Among the main options: traditional garden crops, mushrooms, flowers, fruits, exotic plants. The choice will directly affect the internal arrangement of the greenhouse.

By architectural design

In this case, there are many options: one, two or three-slope greenhouses, combined, wall-mounted, arched or horizontal. Or maybe it's an arched winter garden. The choice will directly affect the final cost of construction and the dimensions of the structure.

According to the types of building materials

The resources used to build a greenhouse are divided into two types: frame material and cover. For the construction of the frame, wood, metal, plastic or even brick can be used. The coating can be polycarbonate, conventional glazing and many other options. If necessary, the gardener can resort to a combined design.

These were the main criteria for preparing the construction of a greenhouse with your own hands, and among others, we can distinguish the division of greenhouses according to the type of heating, the method of planting, etc.

It is curious that greenhouses are quite diverse structures, which can be different in design and interior design. It can be, albeit a solid, but hastily and primitively knocked together structure, or a sufficiently technological and equipped point for year-round crop cultivation.

It is important to remember that all summer cottages are in different conditions, that is, even with a careful choice of the appropriate type of greenhouse, the expected result and the final result, as well as the ideas of do-it-yourself greenhouses, can still vary greatly.

Thus, it is recommended for a gardener starting from scratch to get acquainted with greenhouses and greenhouses, to start with budget options, and also not to aim at large areas and large crop volumes.

Location selection

The construction of greenhouses is one of the most important issues, which is determined by many factors and in turn affects a lot. There are a number of factors that must be taken into account.

Light mode

The greenhouse constantly, and especially in winter, should receive maximum sunlight. Therefore, we build a greenhouse orienting it along the length from west to east.

Correct Orientation

Here you should take into account the direction and nature of the winds. If they can violate the internal temperature regime of the greenhouse, then it will be necessary to provide wind protection. For light and unstable structures, especially if we build a greenhouse with our own hands, the wind can pose a threat of a completely destructive nature. In this case, it is very important to ensure the stability of the structure as a whole, as well as all its fasteners and components in particular. It is important that the terrain is level and not in a low place where moisture would flow.

The soil should not be clay, and ideally it should match the type of plant chosen by the gardener.

Convenience

We are talking about a convenient and comfortable approach to the greenhouse, as well as working inside it. A wide passage and free space around the structure will provide not only easier construction, but also operation. In addition, care should be taken to supply communications to the greenhouse, which will be especially needed there in winter.

Remoteness

Ideally, the greenhouse should be located in an open area and away from other structures on the site, as well as large plantings. This allows you to by default get rid of many problems and ensure optimal conditions inside the greenhouse. In the case of a small area of the site, or because of the chosen type of greenhouse, such an arrangement is not possible, then the construction of the greenhouse is carried out on the south side.

A deliberate approach to solving the issue of placing a greenhouse will achieve the maximum possible effect, as well as eliminate a number of problems and unnecessary trouble.

Shape selection

The most common form for building a greenhouse or a greenhouse with your own hands are arched and gable greenhouses. A greenhouse that is only being planned to be built can also have a different geometric shape, such as an oval, circle, square (or rectangle) and even a trapezoid. Tent-shaped greenhouses are becoming quite popular.

Depending on the location of the greenhouse, as well as the height of the grown plants, both the shape and size of the structure will directly depend. In some areas, the greenhouse is an integral component of the whole composition of landscape design, and therefore its shape and size must be chosen to create maximum aesthetics.

One of the main advantages of building a greenhouse with your own hands instead of acquiring a ready-made store design is the ability to independently vary the shape and size of the structure for your own needs. With collapsible structures, if desired, you can experiment at all every time, combining several options for greenhouses or testing new designs. Non-separable structures can be built, providing for the possibility of their subsequent expansion or modification, without serious intervention.

Size selection

As mentioned above, the size of the greenhouse is determined not only by its location, but above all by the height of the plants that will be grown in it. Of course, for each individual case, the dimensions will be individual. However, the experience of gardeners shows that the most common and optimal greenhouse area options are structures three meters wide and six meters long. With such dimensions, the structure will not take up much space on the site, but at the same time will provide an impressive harvest. The length will be determined by the capabilities of the land plot, the tasks set, and the area of free space.

It is also important that when planning the size of the greenhouse, it is necessary to provide for the presence of a wide path. This is a rather important point, both for the construction and for the operation of the greenhouse. This is explained by the fact that the gardener will need to carry out a regular supply of fertilizers, tools and other items. In addition, there should be free access to the plants themselves from the path so that there is no need to constantly step directly onto the planted area. Thus, the recommended track width is about 0.6 meters.

Maintenance of the greenhouse in a bent position is unacceptable, and therefore the height of the structure should be at least two meters. In general, based on the experience of gardeners, the most optimal is the height of the greenhouse in the range of 2.2-2.5 meters.

Material selection

When choosing a material, first of all, we are talking about the material directly for the main frame when deciding how to build a greenhouse. It is determined mainly by two factors: the type of future greenhouse and the size of the budget.

Materials for the frame of the greenhouse

For the construction of the frame, various materials are used, each of which has its own purpose, as well as positive aspects and disadvantages.

How to make a greenhouse the most budget option is to use PVC pipes. Due to their lightness and flexibility, it is possible to quickly and easily build the structure of a future greenhouse with your own hands. Such a greenhouse will be of an arched type, since a pipe bent in an arc in the form of an arch is attached to the reinforcement hammered into the ground. With the right approach, such a greenhouse can be erected in one day. It is best suited for those who are building a greenhouse for the first time and have not yet fully decided on the need for it on their site.

A more expensive and high-quality material for building a greenhouse with your own hands is wood. With minimal carpentry skills and tools, this material is quite easy to process and create a frame of the required dimensions from it. Then the future greenhouse can be glazed or covered with a film. On any site, such a design will look beautiful and solid. To ensure its durability, it will be necessary not only to take care of the reliability of all fasteners, but also to protect the wood from decay and other negative factors.

In order to save money, builders are advised not to use expensive branded wood processing products, but to replace them with improvised options. As an example, wooden beams can be impregnated with resin, and then smeared several times with drying oil and finally treated with a blowtorch. Protection from decay and other negative factors will be provided no less.

Metal is also one of the most commonly used materials for greenhouse construction. The advantage is that the iron is only attached by welding, but this is also a disadvantage, since not only skills, but also welding equipment will be required. As an alternative, how to make your own greenhouse and a prefabricated building that will be bolted on, however this is much more laborious and time consuming. Due to the increased mass of the iron frame, often such a greenhouse requires its own foundation. In addition, care should be taken to protect the metal structure from corrosion.

Coating materials

It is possible to cover the frame of the future greenhouse to create the expected greenhouse effect with various materials. The most common are the following three options: glass, film and polycarbonate.

Polyethylene film for greenhouses can be of several types:

Heat-saving. It incorporates an adsorbent that does not transmit infrared radiation from the soil at night. In addition, it raises the temperature inside the greenhouse itself;
UV stabilized. Allows you to increase the life of the film under the direct influence of solar radiation by almost ten times;
Light-scattering. Protects plants, especially seedlings, from harsh exposure to sunlight, with its direct influence.

There are other less common types of film. In general, this is a short-lived material, designed to operate for two years, in some cases up to four. The main advantage is low cost and ease of use.

Glass is the oldest and most traditional material. The main advantage is the extremely high light transmission. Among the disadvantages: heavy weight, fragility, the complexity of fastening and the need for a rigid frame. The glass must be strong enough to withstand the stress exerted by wind, hail and precipitation. The best solution would be to use triplex or tempered glass.

It is worth noting that glass has a high transmittance of sunlight, but at the same time, along with useful infrared radiation, plants are also exposed to ultraviolet radiation.

Polycarbonate is a modern and practical material that combines the best qualities of glass and polyethylene. For greenhouses, cellular polycarbonate is used, which is represented by a two-layer sheet structure inside, which has stiffeners. This material is quite inexpensive and elastic. It is easy to install and, if necessary, to dismantle, its service life reaches ten years. The structure of polycarbonate allows you to simultaneously provide good thermal insulation and scattering of rays.

The variety of materials allows you to meet any budget, the needs of the gardener and to match the characteristics of each site. Most materials are light enough to be transported and handled that structures can be erected literally within one day or weekend.

Foundation selection

Before you build a greenhouse with your own hands, you need to create a foundation on the selected site. To do this, you need a flat and flat area, in which a small depression of several centimeters should be made along the contour of the future greenhouse. As the main material for laying the foundation, you can use a wooden beam or boards. It is important to remember that the finished foundation should fit snugly, and if there are gaps, then they should be sprinkled with earth.

Before proceeding with the installation of the foundation, it is necessary to plan and grind the surface of the boards, and then walk along it with protective substances.

In order to strengthen the future foundation, it is recommended to fix the entire structure with additional metal elements (brackets, corners). In the case of using wooden boards, metal corners are attached to the internal joints, and if a beam is used, then the use of staples will be more appropriate and they will need to be driven in at the external joints of the structure.

In the case when the greenhouse is removable and is used during a certain season, then you should not worry about a serious foundation. However, for a greenhouse used all year round, a well-prepared foundation will be required. Ideally, this should be a monolithic strip foundation, which, with its base, is located below the freezing level of the soil. The depth of the ditch should be about eighty centimeters, and the lower part is covered with rubble. In addition, it is recommended to reinforce the base with reinforcement or reinforced mesh.

Heating

A heated greenhouse is a great way to extend the growing season and fruiting, especially if it is a greenhouse for flowers with your own hands. There are several ways to equip the heating system inside the greenhouse, which depend on the available budget, the area of the greenhouse and its purpose.

You can completely mount the heating system for the greenhouse with your own hands.

Of course, heating systems are installed mainly in greenhouses with year-round use. Among the most effective ways of heating greenhouses are the following:

Stove heating, with water or air circuit;
Water heating based on a boiler (solid fuel, electric or gas);
Gas gun;
Electric convectors;
Infrared heaters;
Water heating pipes;
Heating cable.

It should be noted that depending on individual needs, heating methods can be combined. Each of the presented methods is quite multifaceted and has many nuances.

The choice of the heating system is carried out not only on the factors mentioned above, but also on a number of other aspects. For example, the type of energy consumed and its quantity, the principle of operation (heating time, cycle time, etc.), the level of heating efficiency and useful work.

Ventilation

When deciding how to make a greenhouse with your own hands, everything should be taken into account. The basis of the work of each greenhouse or greenhouse is the creation of a greenhouse effect, thanks to the special design of the structure itself. Of course, under conditions of almost complete tightness, exposure to heat and other factors, air quickly stagnates inside the room.

Such a phenomenon is a favorable environment for the reproduction of pests, diseases and other negative factors, and, therefore, this must be fought. It is recommended to create a ventilation system to regulate the microclimate in the room, provide fresh air, maintain optimal air humidity. Of course, the mode of operation of ventilation should not conflict with the operation of other devices, such as heating or shading.

You should also worry about creating devices for greenhouse ventilation. It can be roof and side windows, as well as doors. The surface of these devices should be one-fifth of the total area of the structure.

Airing contributes to the hardening of crops planted in the greenhouse, and is also useful for young seedlings. Before direct planting of seedlings, it is recommended to ventilate the greenhouse premises regularly, not only during the day, but also at night.

beds

Preparing beds in a greenhouse is a rather problematic process that will require a special approach. Success in growing any plants largely depends on the location and design of the beds. In the issue of the formation of beds, many different factors are taken into account, and among the main ones are the following:

The total area of the greenhouse;
Ease of access and approaches;
Type and specificity of plants;
The dimensions of the beds themselves (height, length and width);
Location relative to the cardinal points.

In addition, you will have to take care of the frame for the beds, the bedding for winter insulation, the uniformity of watering, the illumination and heating of the entire planted surface of the beds, because all this is the solution to the question of how to make a greenhouse.

Now you know enough theoretical base in order to have a complete picture of what you should know, understand and prepare before building a greenhouse with your own hands. The principle of operation of the greenhouse and step-by-step instructions on how to build a greenhouse with your own hands are topics for separate detailed articles.

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