Multifunctional soldering stand. Convenient stand for soldering iron and soldering How to make a soldering iron stand yourself

A do-it-yourself soldering iron stand is a very convenient and practical device, which is a kind of table and performs a protective function. Before soldering, the soldering iron must be warmed up. When heated, the case heats up very much, which is why it is worth using a stand to protect any items.

The design of the soldering iron stand: 1 - base, 2, 4, 5 - contacts from a relay type MKU-48 for 220 V, 3.10 - support posts, 6 - disk, 7 - spring, 8, rod of the moving contact Kp 9 - square , D1 - diode type D7Zh.

The need for a soldering iron stand

A high-quality and practical stand for a soldering iron is needed by all those who deal with soldering. You can make it yourself from improvised materials, you just need to have certain skills and certain tools. A homemade stand for a soldering iron is quite simple to manufacture and operate. In order for a thing to be convenient, it must have certain nests designed for containers with flux and alcohol, boxes for rosin and solder, as well as a place to display some details. A homemade soldering iron stand can be used with a tool of any power. When making a design, it is necessary to arrange all the containers in such a way that it is convenient to solder.

Greetings, DIYers!

To do this, we need the following tools and materials:
1. Laminate scraps left after repair
2. A small piece of 16mm chipboard
3. Clamp for polypropylene pipes
4. Electric jigsaw
5. Glue for wood
6. Spray paint. The author used black, but then, in some way, regretted that he had chosen such a gloomy dark color. Therefore, it is advised to choose a more cheerful color.
7. Putty
8. Sandpaper
9. Usb lamp from fix-price store
10. 2 crocodile clips
11. A pair of small bolts and nuts to them
12. Copper wire

The author begins work on homemade. First you need to decide what you are going to store in your homemade product. To determine the dimensions of the future product, he compactly folds what will be stored in a makeshift organizer in the near future.

At this stage, he also notes the approximate dimensions of the future product.
Now, but more precisely, he makes a drawing of the workpiece. When making a drawing, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the materials used.

Now the author proceeds directly to the manufacture of the organizer. To begin with, he cuts laminate and chipboard to size. Super accuracy is not needed here, but still try to make the cut as close to 90 degrees as possible. This is how the box should look like.

Next, you need to mark out what size the stands for the soldering iron holder should be. The recesses should be naturally higher than the walls of the box, and the coasters themselves should be of such length that, lying down, they can easily fit in the box, and in one layer. Now you need to cut a recess for both metal parts. The author does it like this:

After some time, he realizes that this could have been done much easier with a crown on a tree, and only then cut in half. Well, as they say, a good thought comes to someone else or to ourselves, but belatedly.
Here's what happened in the end. It remains to tighten a couple of screws and you're done.

Now proceeds to assemble the box itself. Starts from the bottom. Makes small indentations for the self-tapping screws in advance. Then, at the gluing points, using sandpaper, removes the entire glossy layer of the laminate. Next is gluing. The author takes a special glue for wood products and glues wide side walls made of chipboard. When gluing, it is advisable to use clamps. After the glue has dried, it is necessary to fix the entire structure from below to the screws. Next, check the perpendicularity of the walls. You need to measure the angle between the walls. It should be straight - 90 °.

It's all right, let's move on. Now this design has rigidity, so you can glue and screw onto self-tapping screws at the same time. Here's what happened.

The author made the lid of the box on a tenon-groove connection. It's long and tedious. The author adjusted everything manually so that it was tightly assembled into one whole. Next, glue all the details. This will be quite enough, since practically no loads are expected on this part of the organizer.

Then you need sandpaper. It is necessary with its help to sand all possible irregularities and apply putty on wood. Putty is mainly needed to close the chips at the ends of the chipboard, and to hide all sorts of jambs that were formed during manufacture. After the putty has hardened, it must be cleaned. The same sandpaper will come to the rescue.

The next step is painting.

It is necessary to paint the box to give it a presentation.
Well, the paint is completely dry and here the author would like to add one point. It was necessary to choose a more cheerful color so that relatives would not have a desire to take away the box and bury, for example, a hamster in it. Anyway.

Now you can carefully separate the tape from the rack where the hot part of the soldering iron will be. We don't need the smell of burnt paint. If there are sticky traces of adhesive tape, you can try to remove them. Or leave it as it is. After turning on the soldering iron, the adhesive remaining on the rack from the adhesive tape should burn out.

And on the part where the handle will be, we put on the native rubber band from the fasteners for the polypropylene water pipe so that the soldering iron does not slide along the rack.

Mounting the stand for the soldering iron itself will be very simple. Nuts are glued in the racks and all this is pulled together with bolts with hats to the wall of the box. Here's what happened in the end:

Everything is very simple and practical. If you wish, you can drill a few more of the same holes, and if you have more than one soldering iron, then this design feature will be very useful. It will be possible to rearrange the rack for different sizes of the soldering iron. Now, in the side wall of the box, the author decided to make a couple of clips. They will be used as a third hand for soldering. To make such a design, you will need such a miracle of Chinese engineering from the fix-price store.

In the store, it is positioned as a usb lamp for illuminating the laptop keyboard. It can also be used in conjunction with a power bank, or as a night light. Here, as the latter, it fits better, because, to be honest, it shines so-so, but its flexible leg will come in handy for us. You will also need a couple of small screws with mortise nuts.

A do-it-yourself soldering iron stand is necessary when working with a tool. Factory devices are mostly not practical and do not have additional features that greatly facilitate the work.

Using something as a coaster usually results in a burnt table surface, clothes spoiled by tin and rosin, and hand burns.

Working on the “knee” is not quite convenient and takes a lot of time. The time and material investments in the manufacture of the stand are insignificant, the convenience and speed of work compensate for all efforts in the manufacture of the device.

The main requirements for stands, determined by operating experience:

the base must be made of a material that conducts heat poorly;
racks should not be massive;
the optimal height of the bath for solder is not more than 10 mm;
the soldering iron should lie on a stand with a slight slope, the tip is raised, the handle is lowered.

The dimensions of the product will depend on the power and size of the soldering iron.

Simple stand option

Figure 1. Scheme of a stand for a soldering iron for automatic temperature control.

The most common option, made within an hour. For the base, you can use a piece of wooden board with a thickness of at least 15 mm. Width and length are determined by the soldering iron model. The type of tree does not play a big role. It is desirable that the material be dry.

Surfaces should preferably be sanded or sanded.

Then, from a steel wire with a diameter of 3 - 4 mm, two racks must be bent. Usually, welding electrodes are used, freeing them from coating and treating them with emery cloth.

The shape of the rack is similar to the letter "M". The front of them should be higher, the middle bend is somewhat narrower, but the soldering iron should lie freely, without fixation. The C-pillar is slightly lower, the bend is wider. The lower ends of the racks must be sharpened with sandpaper or a file. Then hammer both racks into the board, according to the size of the soldering iron. The tip of the soldering iron must be in the air, the heating element must be located on the front rack. If a piece of hardwood is used for the base, it is advisable to drill two holes for the posts 4-6 mm deep and then hammer them.

A bath for flux and solder can be made from an old MBM capacitor of the required size. With a hacksaw for metal, he needs to cut the bottom at a height of 5-8 mm, and pull it off. The resulting bath must be washed with a solvent or alcohol, degreasing it. After drying, the bath must be fixed on the base, approximately in the middle between the racks. For fastening, you can use a couple of nails or small screws. In the absence of a condenser, you can use a suitable lid from a can or any other tin tray. The thickness of the tin should be small, otherwise it will be difficult to melt the solder when working with a low power soldering iron.

The stand is ready to use.

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Stand with energy saving circuit

The main disadvantage of soldering irons is their long initial heating. When working with circuits, soldering is needed periodically, and the soldering iron must be kept on between intervals, otherwise the work process will be significantly lengthened.

In addition, the soldering iron overheats, the solder and the tip oxidize. A simple circuit installed on a do-it-yourself soldering iron stand will help keep the tool at a lower temperature, warming up quickly when used.

For manufacturing you will need:

diode, maximum forward current according to the power of the soldering iron;
microswitch with the necessary current on the contacts;
socket, cord with plug;

The base for the stand should be slightly larger than in the previous version. It is advisable to place the socket and microswitch on the side of the location of the soldering iron.

Figure 2. Scheme of the heating controller.

You need to install a diode in the socket housing by connecting it to one of the sockets of the socket, the polarity of the connection is not important. The power cord is connected with one wire to the second socket of the socket, the second to the free input of the diode. The microswitch is connected with normally closed contacts in parallel with the diode.

It is desirable to isolate all connections and the diode in any way possible. The microswitch must be fixed on the base and a movable bracket must be installed to switch it. The soldering iron lying on the stand should press the arm of the bracket with its weight. The bracket will switch the microswitch, its contacts will open. The soldering iron will be connected to a voltage of 110 V. The power consumed from the network will be halved, and the temperature will drop accordingly.

When lifting the soldering iron, the bracket will rise, the contacts will close, and within a few seconds the soldering iron will warm up to the required temperature.

To control the presence of voltage in the socket or on the base, you need to install a voltage indicator (any available).

Usually, when using such a stand, they often forget to turn off the soldering iron at the end of work.

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Connecting a soldering iron through a bridge

This scheme allows you to somewhat stabilize the operation of the soldering iron during drops and power surges in the network. Unlike the option described above, instead of one diode, you need to install a diode bridge with a smoothing electrolytic capacitor at the output. For manufacturing you need:

four diodes with the required forward current rating;
40.0 microfarad electrolytic capacitor, voltage 350 V or higher;
two microswitches or a group of normally closed contacts from a relay;
socket, power cord with plug;
mains voltage indicator.

For control, you need two pairs of normally closed contacts. You can use two microswitches or contacts from an open type relay. Contacts must be covered with a cover made of dielectric material.

One pair of contacts (Fig. 1) disconnects and connects one of the diodes of the bridge, the second - the capacitor. In the working position, the power to the soldering iron is supplied through the bridge and smoothed by the capacitor, in the non-working position - through one of the diodes of the bridge.

The design and dimensions of such a stand will depend on the available elements. The main elements are similar to previous versions. You can make a movable bracket for switching contacts from the used relay by removing the core and winding.

The topic of soldering iron stands is quite well disclosed on our website. How is my stand different from others? — I tried to make it as compact, convenient and functional as possible. Do you want the same? - Please under the cut!

The main feature of this stand is the built-in regulator. was inconvenient in that he was constantly lost and mixed with another bunch on the table. This one is tightly screwed to the stand, it will never get lost and will not jump around the table.

The new one is better than the old one in that it has smooth adjustment and operation indication. Here is the schematic I used to assemble the controller:

Diode bridge - any that can withstand the mains voltage and the current consumed by the soldering iron. (the formula for calculating the current is Soldering iron power / Mains voltage) A suitable diode assembly or bridge can be pulled out of the input circuit of a computer PSU. Instead of a diode bridge, you can use a diode, then the adjustment range will be from 50 to 100%.

Fuse F1 is desirable, but not required.

Switch S1, S2 - Bipolar toggle switch with middle position. In the middle position, the soldering iron is off and the HL1 LED will not light. In the position indicated in the diagram, the power of the soldering iron is regulated by the trimming resistor R3, in the opposite position of the toggle switch, the current goes directly to the load, bypassing the regulator.

I made all these muddles personally for myself, and it is not necessary to repeat this scheme exactly. Yes, a suitable scheme can be gleaned from there.

Regulator board:

To cover the giblets of the regulator from external influences, I made a plastic case, bent the edges with a technical hair dryer:

We figured out the electronic filling of the regulator, now we move on to creating the nodes of the stand itself.

In order not to lose various small items and store solders, I made a small box of tin, the corners of which for strength:

The soldering iron stop itself is, in my opinion, the most successful design. In order for the soldering iron to hold well in such an emphasis, when inserting it, its center line should be below the stop horns.

When soldering, a fixture is often needed, but you don’t always need to clutter up the table with such fixtures - just attach a crocodile clip to the stand, which is fixed with a screw:

To clean the soldering iron tip, I use a metal sponge for washing dishes, which will be located in a box with edges made under it:

Stand base - Rectangular chipboard:

Milled recess for rosin:

I crumbled rosin from a jar into the recess and warmed it with a building hair dryer so as not to get enough sleep:

We begin to attach the above nodes to the base, further commenting is unnecessary:

The fixing of the main nodes is completed.

In order for the stand not to roll on the table, I glued rubber rounds on the back side:

Well, so that everything would be according to Feng Shui, we glue identification badges on the regulator body:

Modern soldering irons are highly efficient popular tools used for tinning and soldering elements, as well as melting the solder and then applying it to the areas of the parts being soldered to each other.

Do-it-yourself soldering iron stand is quite easy, makes the operation of the tool safe and convenient.

All soldering irons produced today by domestic and foreign manufacturers differ in power indicators and their design features, which affects the choice of the type, size and shape of the stand.

Rod type models have ceramic and coil heaters.

The second option is more practical and durable, but has a fairly long warm-up. A ceramic soldering iron heats up much faster, but needs careful operation and the most careful attitude, so a high-quality stand helps prevent unwanted shocks or failure of the device.

The material for the traditional stand is also selected taking into account the power ratings of the soldering tool:

models 3-10 W are used in desoldering the smallest microcircuits;
20-40 W devices are classified as household and amateur radio;
60-100 W devices are most often used in automotive services and are involved in desoldering thick cables;
soldering irons 100-250 W are used in soldering dishes, easily solder radiators and other large-sized metal.

The most powerful soldering irons are bulky tools that require especially reliable and sturdy stands. A convenient and multifunctional stand makes work safe, and the presence of a voltage regulator prevents overheating of the soldering iron in conditions of prolonged work with the device.

The device connected to the mains quickly warms up to 250-300 ° C, therefore it is placed on a special stand or inserted into it, after which it is located on the edge of the working surface.

How to make a stand for a soldering iron with your own hands?

Today, retail outlets sell just a huge number of a wide variety of devices, including simple holders and entire complexes called soldering stations. The presence of a minimum number of tools and materials, as well as a small amount of effort and time, allows you to independently make a convenient and practical durable stand for a soldering iron of almost any type.

materials

As a necessary minimum of materials for self-manufacturing of the stand, you can consider:

stable and non-combustible base with legs, made of any materials that do not conduct heat well and are safe to use;
supports for laying or inserting a soldering iron;
a special container filled with rosin (flux).

Simple homemade stand

The most requested auxiliary "options" of the design can be represented by a reliable platform for tinning, a container for solder and a device for cleaning the tip.

When choosing the elements that are supposed to be used in the manufacture of a soldering iron stand with your own hands, preference should be given only to high-strength, non-toxic and durable materials.

Tool

The set of tools may vary depending on the structural features of the base and the materials used in the work on the construction - a hacksaw for wood and metal, wire cutters, screwdrivers, a construction knife, marking and measuring tools.

Simple stand option

The most budgetary, simple and common, the so-called amateur option, is a design with a metal wire mount for the device. In this case, the conical spring of the holder is fixed on a wooden or ceramic base. Often the wire is replaced by thin metal clothes hangers.

Homemade mobile soldering iron structures are often made from sheet metal obtained from a broken computer power supply. Such an original base is intended primarily for use by people who regularly perform soldering work outside the home. A distinctive feature of this model is sufficient ease of use and functionality, as well as compact dimensions and the ability to transport the base in a small bag or a simple pocket.

Stand on work surface

Any of the simplest stands can become more convenient if the design is supplemented with some auxiliary elements, represented by a metal sponge for cleaning the tip, a soldering holder, containers for tin and rosin.

Stand with energy saving circuit

The main disadvantage of the soldering iron is the duration of the initial warm-up and the need to keep the device on even when performing periodic soldering, which has an extremely negative effect on the consumption of electrical energy. Among other things, overheating of the device is accompanied by oxidation of the tip and solder.

Thanks to the use of a simple circuit that is installed on the base, it becomes possible to save electricity.

For self-production, you need to prepare:

a diode with a maximum forward current corresponding to the power of the device;
a microswitch having the required current on the contacts;
electrical outlet;
electric cord with a standard plug;
indicator for mains voltage.

The socket and microswitch are traditionally located in the side part of the base, not far from the soldering iron.

Manufacturing technology:

installation of a diode in the housing part of the socket;
connecting a diode to a socket without regard to polarity;
connecting the power cord to another socket and free diode input;
parallel connection of normally closed contacts of the microswitch to the diode;
isolation of the diode and all connections;
installation of a microswitch on a movable bracket.

The device, mounted on a stand, presses the lever part of the bracket with its mass, which is accompanied by switching the microswitch and opening its contacts. In this case, the power is halved, and the voltage control is carried out by the indicator.

As a rule, the operation of a stand with an electric energy saving circuit requires the control of turning off the soldering iron after work is completed.

Connecting a soldering iron through a bridge

This version of the circuit contributes to the stabilization of the operation of an electrical device in the conditions of drops and surges in the electrical network. In this case, the diode is replaced by a diode bridge with a smoothing electrolytic capacitor at the output.

Materials for manufacturing are presented:

diodes with the required indicators of nominal direct current values - 4 pieces;
electrolytic capacitor for 40.0 microfarads and 350 V or more - 1 piece;
microswitches or a group of contacts normally closed from the relay - 2 pieces;
power cord with plug;
voltage indicator.

Regulator with triac and diode bridge

DIY manufacturing technology:

close the contacts with a dielectric cover;
connect bridge diodes to one disconnected pair of contacts;
connect a capacitor to the second pair of contacts.

The operating position of the power supply is characterized by the supply of voltage through the bridge and typical smoothing with a capacitor.

The shape, dimensions and design features of the model depend on the elements used, and the manufacture of a movable bracket that switches contacts is carried out by means of a relay, carefully removed windings and a core.

Soldering iron stand with power regulator

A distinctive feature of the design is the presence of a power regulator built into it, which allows you to control the heating temperature of the soldering iron.

Materials and tools for manufacturing are presented:

radio components;
chipboard sheet;
high-strength plastic;
tin elements;
fasteners and clamps;
metal sponge;
rubber parts;
adhesive composition;
drill and cutter;
soldering iron;
building hair dryer.

Manufacturing technology for a soldering iron stand with a do-it-yourself power regulator:

assembling the power control board in accordance with the above diagram;
production of a plastic blank for the body part of the board using a building hair dryer;
production of a tin box with soldered corners;
making a tin box for a metal brush for cleaning the sting;
assembling an emphasis for an electrical appliance;
soldering the bolt to the clamp as a "third hand";
production of a stand base from a chipboard sheet;
cutout on the base by means of a notch cutter;
placement in the recess of rosin, melted with a building hair dryer;
fixing the metal box, stand and clamp;
screwing the board and fixing the case.

At the final stage of manufacturing, a box for an iron brush is screwed on, and anti-slip rubber feet are fixed with glue on the back of the finished stand.

To make the operation of the finished stand as comfortable and safe as possible, it is necessary to mark the adjustment of power indicators on the device board.

Conclusion

When assembling the multifunctional stand yourself, you need to remember that the operation of soldering irons that differ in power indicators is accompanied by the display of different values on the indicator, assembled according to the scheme for measuring the current consumed by the device. This feature is not always convenient to use, so experts recommend replacing the indicator element in the circuit with a voltmeter, and preferring an assembly of the KTs405a type to a traditional diode bridge.

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