Doorway without drywall door. Drywall partition with a door: do-it-yourself installation. Doorway. We select materials

When a major renovation is planned in an old apartment, the owners often have a desire to redevelop the home. Almost always, the implementation of these plans is accompanied by the demolition of some partitions and the construction of others in a new place. Sometimes they are limited to moving the door along the wall. In any case, you will have to make an interior doorway of drywall.

Modern methods of building partitions in an apartment involve the use of various materials, but drywall remains the main one. The choice in favor of gypsum boards is determined by the low price of materials and a relatively simple finish. Almost everything can be done with your own hands, without resorting to hiring workers. But no matter how simple drywall operations are, the organization of the doorway has a number of features that cannot be neglected.

New opening design

For all its attractiveness, drywall partitions have a significant drawback. It consists in the fact that both the frame made of a metal profile, on which sheets of material are attached, and the drywall itself sag slightly when horizontal loads are applied to them that occur when using the door. Over time, the frame around the perimeter of the doorway loosens, and this will lead to a decrease in the strength of the structure.

Note! In order to avoid undesirable consequences during construction work, immediately take additional measures to strengthen the frame of the opening.

One of the main advantages is that you can do all the work yourself.

Parts are fastened with their own hands without special preparation

Formation of the structure

First, vertical posts are installed at the selected location, limiting the opening. The location is carefully verified according to the building or laser level. This is important so that there are no distortions when hanging the door leaf. The distance between the vertical posts is selected based on the dimensions of the box: it should slightly exceed the dimensions of the wooden frame.
The top and bottom of the uprights are securely fastened to the horizontal frame rails. Sometimes they make additional fastening to the floor and ceiling.
According to the selected height of the doorway, the vertical posts are connected by a horizontal jumper. The connections between the parts of the frame are made with metal screws with a small thread pitch. The use of special shortened self-tapping screws for the “bug” type profile is justified.
After completing the installation, the opening is finally trimmed.

Mounting of the limit posts

Frame reinforcement

Increased strength requirements are imposed on the frame of the doorway, so the standard profile is reinforced. The most reliable way to achieve the necessary rigidity of the frame will be wooden blocks. For ease of insertion into the racks, the thickness of the bar is selected 5 mm less than the profile size. If a profile with a width of 100 mm is used for the construction of a partition, a wooden beam is taken with a thickness of 95 mm. The length of the beam should correspond to the height of the door pillars. The wooden piece is inserted inside the vertical profile and fixed with wood screws with a thread pitch every 15-20 cm. The length of the screws is selected 3-4 mm shorter than half the thickness of the beam. If it is intended to use a heavy wooden door, then it is advisable to reinforce the horizontal lintel at the top with a beam. Additional finishing of a wooden bar is not applied.

Strengthening the frame

Door frame installation

The door frame can be made with your own hands from a special profiled beam. This will require the appropriate skills and tools. Most often, a factory-made box is used, which is sold complete with a door; it does not need additional finishing. If the dimensions of the doorway are chosen correctly, a gap of half a centimeter remains between the box and the vertical posts. This simplifies the process of installing a finished purchased product into a built opening with your own hands and gives room for maneuver. The door frame is fixed with long self-tapping screws, but the best result is the use of special anchors.

In the intended places: holes are drilled in the vertical racks and in the door frame, the diameter of which corresponds to the thickness of the anchors. The anchors are inserted into the holes, then countersunk screws are screwed into them. The anchor sleeve expands and provides a strong fastening of the structure. The gaps between the opening and the box are filled with mounting foam. To prevent the door frame from curving when the foam hardens, spacers are installed inside it in several places. After the final curing of the foam, the spacers are removed, and the excess foam is removed with a mounting or clerical knife.

Box mounting

The final stage - finishing

The doorway is also finally finished with their own hands, but after puttying and painting the partition. To close the gap between the door frame and the partition itself, the doorway is sheathed around the perimeter with wooden slats - cashing is done. On sale there is cashing in various sizes and shades, so you can pick up the right one right in the same store where you bought the doors. The horizontal and vertical parts of the cashing are joined at an angle of 45 degrees. The required angle is performed using a special device - a miter box. They fasten the cashing with nails without a hat: they do this so that there is no noticeable fastening.

In contact with

As soon as repairs begin in secondary housing, the owners think about redevelopment of the premises. Often you have to demolish one or more partitions, and in another place. And here the question arises, how to make a drywall doorway? Is it possible to do this work yourself, or will you have to hire a team.

Drywall door installation

There are a lot of materials for it, but the most popular and popular is drywall. This material is universal. Firstly, it is inexpensive, secondly, you can make a doorway from drywall with your own hands, and thirdly, it is easy to finish. But do not think that it is easy to use drywall for mounting a doorway, as it has its own characteristics, and they should not be neglected.

Despite the fact that the GVL, when constructing a drywall doorway, is attached to, the structure under horizontal loads may lose strength and begin to loosen. Especially if the door leaf is heavy.

An example of finishing a plasterboard doorway

Important! When constructing a partition with a doorway, the structure must be strengthened even at the installation stage. The main positive point in the arrangement of drywall structures is the ability to do everything yourself.

Installation of a partition with a doorway

If you need to sew up a doorway with drywall with your own hands, then the step-by-step instructions below will help bring this to life.

This method may be needed not only in the repair of an old apartment, but also in a new one, since they are often rented out in one room, in which the layout must be done independently.

But it is worth noting that all redevelopment work must be coordinated. Before starting work, you need to plan a partition, since it will not be possible to first build a structure, and only then equip an opening - everything must be done in accordance with a specific work plan.

Scheme with dimensions for installing a partition with a doorway

And in this case, it does not matter whether you want a full-fledged doorway. The main task is to build a solid and stable structure.

Planning and layout

Installation is carried out in stages. It is important to follow a strict sequence. Start with planning:

Note! If it is possible to borrow a laser level from professionals, then you can use this device for marking - it is much more convenient and faster.

materials

Construction and fastening of a plasterboard partition frame with a doorway

Tool

For installation, you need the following set of tools:

perforator for punching holes in surfaces. If the house is wooden, then it will not be needed;
a screwdriver is the most necessary tool, since there will be a lot of screws to tighten;
sharp scissors for metal, for profiles;
level, pencil and tape measure, for measurements and marking;
a construction knife and a metal ruler, for fast and accurate cutting of drywall.

Frame installation

The frame is an important structure in the construction of a partition with a doorway, it must be performed according to the instructions:

Doorway

How to lay a doorway with drywall? Let's consider in more detail. It is easy to make this design:

Plasterboard sheathing and soundproofing

How to sheathe? First, one side with GKL plates. For this you need to use black, the step of which should not exceed 20 cm;
Install mineral wool between the profiles, trying not to have large gaps between the material;
Once the soundproofing is installed, the structure can be completely sewn up. If doors will be installed, then there is no need to sheathe the inside of the opening. When arranging an empty opening, strips of material are installed on the sides.

The video shows step-by-step instructions for installing a drywall doorway.

Finishing

How is the doorway trimmed? During the subsequent installation of the door leaf, you can simply stick a sickle on the seams and putty the partition on both sides. Facing material is selected based on the overall design of the room. With an empty opening, additionally installed. You can finish the doorways of drywall with any materials.

Leveling the opening with drywall

The simplest solution for aligning the contours of the doorway is the use of GKL. The work is simple, but has its own characteristics. We need to prepare:

The process of leveling the opening

This process must be done in stages:

This is an inexpensive and simple option, sealing the doorway with drywall, which allows you to make the opening perfectly even, but it has one big drawback - it is impossible to install a door on such a structure.

Installation of a doorway using a metal profile

Mounted frame of a plasterboard partition with a doorway made of a metal profile

If the door opening is in a deplorable state or needs to be reduced, then a metal frame will be the most correct solution. Firstly, this will make it even, and secondly, the design will be rigid and durable. This method combines the above, as it will be constructed that will be attached to a concrete base.

Technology for arranging a doorway

Before you build a structure, you need to decide how you will reduce the opening, on one side or on two.

Plasterboard arch on a metal frame

The above methods involve the installation of a straight doorway. But if a decision is made to make a drywall arch in the doorway, then the upper part must be made arched. The technology for arranging a direct opening is the same in all cases, so we will consider the arrangement of only an arched element.

Arch Arrangement Technology

You need to do the following:

As a result of the repair, redevelopment of premises is often carried out. Moreover, this can be done without affecting the load-bearing walls. To increase the area of the premises, they demolish interior partitions - they are much thinner and not designed for a large load. And if you want to divide the space, erect a drywall structure.

Drywall openings

Material characteristics

Drywall is essentially a layer of gypsum between two layers of thick construction board. At first glance, such a material seems too fragile, but in fact, such a “wall” is constructed from a completely durable steel frame, in which plasterboard sheets serve as a finish.

Drywall

An important advantage of the material is the ability to make a doorway out of drywall, and of any shape and any required size. It is also possible to equip it with doors, but preferably sliding and, naturally, the lightest. Often they do without them, and the doorway itself is decorated as decoratively as possible - for example, with the help of an arch.

The advantage of drywall sheets mass:

the sheets are very light - the thickness varies from 0.65 to 1.25 cm, it easily allows you to build the most voluminous structures from the material;
you can buy GKL at any hardware store and of any kind - ordinary, ceiling, heat-resistant, waterproof;
flexibility - GKL can be bent over a fairly wide range. Thus, to produce curvilinear contours;
quick installation - the speed cannot be compared with the construction of structures made of brick or stone. In addition, you can work with sheets with your own hands, it is only important to follow the step-by-step instructions exactly;
the material is non-flammable and completely safe.

You can also make a screen with doors between the rooms from the GKL, and close up an opening that is too wide, and change the shape of the existing one.

Installation of an archway

Drywall wall with a doorway: installation of the structure

The basis of the partition is a steel profile - starting and rack. Its dimensions are determined by the size and, accordingly, the weight of the structure. The frame is sealed with drywall of the desired type: for example, a waterproof material is required to separate the kitchen and the hall.

Plasterboard partition

You also need fasteners that match the type of load-bearing walls.

First of all, the parameters of both the structure itself and the actual opening in it are clarified. As such, there are no restrictions. But if a door is to be installed, its weight must be commensurate with the weight of the structure.
A sketch is created. According to the finished scheme, it is much easier to take into account all the features: for example, strengthening the frame around the future door, the construction of additional volumetric elements, if complex design with columns and semi-columns is expected.
According to the project, the amount of material required is calculated - profiles, finishes and fasteners.
On the surfaces, markings are made for the future frame. According to the marking, the distance between the fasteners is calculated - at least 20 cm, and holes are drilled in the surfaces.
The guide profile is cut according to the calculated data. It is recommended that when mounting in a corner, only cut the profile and bend it to an angle of 90 degrees: the structure as a whole will be more durable.
According to the scheme, segments of the rack are installed in the guide profile. Fasten with special screws.
The finished partition is finished with drywall. If necessary, the space between the sheets is sealed with insulation and sound insulator - mineral wool, for example, or foam sheets.

In the video, the installation process of the interior partition is covered in detail.

Drywall doorway

Sometimes it is required not to build a new interior wall, but only to reduce or modify the existing doorway.

Drywall doorway

For this, the GKL is also more than suitable, the scheme of actions is similar, but the amount of work is noticeably less.

Determine the dimensions of the future door and draw up a diagram. Actually the doorway is formed by 2 rack-mount profiles and a horizontal crossbar. However, depending on how much you need to reduce the initial dimensions, additional racks may be needed.
Mark surfaces and drill holes for fasteners.
Following the step-by-step instructions, fix the guide profile, and then install the racks.
If it is necessary to reduce the doorway and hang the sash, the structure must be strengthened. To do this, horizontal jumpers are attached between the racks. Their number depends on the magnitude of the expected load.
Then the finished frame is sealed with soundproofing material and sheathed with drywall in the usual manner, as in the photo.

Mounting the wall and opening

Drywall arch in the doorway

This design method allows you to do without doors. However, their main advantage is decoration, not functionality. The arch can have any shape - semicircular, trapezoidal, angular, complex curvilinear or asymmetrical.

The construction scheme is the same as when installing a conventional door. However, there are nuances. In most cases, round, semicircular arches or with rounded corners are constructed, and this requires a profile to be bent.

You can do it yourself, or you can simply order curved profiles according to the project.

The profile is bent on its own, cutting the metal with scissors and bending it as necessary. Then they do the same with drywall. The material is treated with a spiked roller: perforation makes the sheets not so hard, then moistened with water - slightly, and bent. After drying, the GKL takes the desired shape. In the photo - installation of the arch.

Our topic today is a wall with a plasterboard door. We will find out from what and how to assemble a wall frame, at what point a door block should be installed in it, how to ensure maximum structural rigidity and high-quality sound insulation between rooms. Let's get started.

What is needed to assemble the partition?

frame

The frame of any drywall construction can be made from a galvanized profile, produced specifically for this purpose, and from a slightly cheaper bar.

What to choose? We strongly advise you to stay on the profile.

There are several reasons for this:

Its ideal geometry. The bar often has noticeable irregularities, “propellers”, bends and other defects, so part of the material purchased without sorting will inevitably go to waste;

Its zero hygroscopicity, on the practical side, meaning a constant shape of the frame, regardless of humidity and air temperature. The wood swells in wet weather, which often leads to deformation of the wall and the appearance of cracks in its finish;

Note: this lack of wood is leveled by its impregnation with drying oil or other water-repellent material. However, the price of impregnation negates the difference in cost between the bar and the profile, and the drying time will make you delay the repair for several days.

Its resistance to biological influences (rot, mold, insects). High humidity, coupled with hungry carpenter beetles, are quite capable of completing the career of a wooden frame in a dozen years.

Which profiles need to be purchased to assemble the partition frame with a doorway in it:

Image	Description
	Rack-mounted. It forms a rigid frame and strapping of the door block. The height of the vertical walls of the U-shaped profile is unchanged and equal to 50 millimeters, but its width can vary from 50 to 100 mm. The width is selected depending on the requirements for the strength of the wall (a wide profile provides greater rigidity) and its soundproofing qualities (thick sound-absorbing material will let less sounds into the adjacent room). The length of the profile must be at least equal to the height of the wall, and the number of profiles is selected for a step between posts of 600 mm.
	guide. He is responsible for fastening the racks to the capital structures - the ceiling, adjacent walls and the floor. The width of the guide profile must match the width of the uprights. The total length of the guides is equal to the perimeter of the partition with a margin of about a meter for the strapping of the door block.

Auxiliary materials

In addition to the profile, the installation of a plasterboard wall with a door will require the purchase of additional materials:

9mm self-tapping screws for metal. They frame parts are connected to each other;
Dowel screws (60x6 mm for concrete and 80x8 for brick). They are attached to adjacent structures guides;
Self-tapping screws for sheathing the frame with drywall. With a single-layer sheathing, their length should be equal to 25 millimeters. If the skin is two-layer, the second layer is fastened with 40 mm self-tapping screws. The number of fasteners is about 70 self-tapping screws per sheet of plasterboard;

Hint: two-layer sheathing is desirable in rooms with an increased load on the walls (read - with high traffic) - hallways and interior corridors.

Self-tapping screws for fastening the door block to the racks. Their length is determined by the thickness of the door frame and varies from 16 to 40 mm. In most cases, you can use 25 mm fasteners for plasterboard;
Gypsum putty for filling joints and filling fasteners;
Serpyanki (fiberglass mesh 5-8 cm wide with an adhesive layer on one side) for reinforcing seams;

Damper tape for acoustic decoupling of the partition frame with ceilings and walls;
Actually drywall. In dry rooms, wall 12.5 mm plasterboard is used, in wet rooms (bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens) - moisture-resistant drywall of the same thickness. The amount of material is calculated according to the area of the wall, taking into account the double-sided cladding and the margin for cutting approximately 15%;
acrylic primer. Priming precedes the final finishing of GKL.

Tools

To assemble the partition you will need:

Perforator with a drill for the size of dowel screws;
Screwdriver;
Metal shears for profile cutting;

Attention: it is strongly not recommended to cut galvanized steel with a grinder. During abrasive cutting, the anti-corrosion coating burns out, and at high humidity, the profile begins to rust.

A bucket for preparing putty with a volume of 3-6 liters;

Please note: the volume of a single portion of gypsum putty usually does not exceed 3 liters. The reserve by volume of the container for mixing the mixture is useful when mixing, but inconvenient when puttying.

Knife, hacksaw or jigsaw for cutting drywall;

Hint: curved parts are cut out of the plasterboard with a narrow hacksaw or electric jigsaw. It is better not to cut it along straight lines, but to break it, having previously cut it with a knife along the ruler by 1/4 - 1/3 of the thickness: this way there will be much less gypsum dust in the room.

A pair of spatulas (narrow and wide) for puttying;

Grater or grinder with grinding nets No. 100 - No. 120;
Roulette, ruler, plumb line and pencil for marking the frame and wall cladding.

Mounting order

First and foremost: what comes first - doors or drywall on the walls? The door block is most conveniently mounted at the frame assembly stage. How exactly - we will now tell.

The video in this article will help you become more visually familiar with how a drywall wall with a door is mounted.

frame

Here is a step by step guide for assembling it:

Mark the line of the future wall. The marking is first applied to the floor or ceiling, then transferred to the second floor with a plumb line, and only then is it done on the walls;
Fasten the guide profile along this line. The distance between the dowel-screws is 40-50 centimeters. Holes for fasteners are drilled directly through a profile pressed against the ceiling, wall or floor. In the lower guide, make a gap for the width of the doorway (door leaf + frame) at the door installation site;

Hint: Don't forget to put damper tape under the guides. If you can't find it in local hardware stores, the tape can be cut from foam insulation or a thick foam underlay for laminate flooring.

Mark the position of the racks on the floor and ceiling. Marking is carried out strictly on a plumb line. A step of 600 mm is measured between the middle of the profiles: in this case, the joint of adjacent drywall sheets (its width is 120 centimeters) will be there;

Cut the rack profiles to length, line them up with marks and secure with metal screws on both sides of the rail.

Tip: Take the time to measure the distance between floor and ceiling for each rack. The difference in floor height often reaches several centimeters, and racks cut to a common measure have a non-zero chance of going to waste.

In pursuit of toughness

What to do if the small area of the apartment limits the thickness of the partition, and the patency of the premises imposes strict requirements on the strength of its frame?

Here are some possible solutions:

Reduce the pitch between the uprights to 400 or even 300 millimeters. The main thing is that the width of the drywall sheet remains a multiple of this step;
Connect the rack profiles in two (in the shape of the letter “H” or by nesting them into each other);

Insert wooden mortgages into the rack profiles - bars with a section of 50x50 mm.

Noise isolation

In the general case, it is carried out with mineral wool laid between the racks of the frame.

Hint: it is more convenient to use not roll insulation, but glued boards 1000x600 mm in size. They stand between the racks with a standard pitch without cutting in width and do not cake, leaving the top of the wall without soundproofing filling.

If you need the highest quality sound insulation (for example, between a bedroom and a living room in a two-room apartment), filling the frame with insulation is not enough: you need to acoustically untie the wall sheathing on both sides of it. The fact is that the frame perfectly transmits low-frequency vibrations from one side of the partition to the other.

How to do it?

By assembling two independent frames with a centimeter gap between them. Each of them is filled with mineral wool and sheathed with drywall on one side.

Door

As we wrote above, the swing door is installed at the frame assembly stage.

This is done like this:

Install on a plumb line one of the racks adjacent to the doorway;
Place the door block close to it (a box with a canvas wedged in it);

Attention: if the door in the box is not wedged, after installation it can overwrite the jambs. In the role of wedges, you can use pieces of hardboard or chips.

Tighten the door frame with self-tapping screws screwed in from the side of the rack. Step - 20-25 cm;

Hint: the adjoining of the door frame to the rack will become airtight, and the connection itself will be stronger if you first apply a strip of mounting foam to the rack.

On the opposite side of the door block, fix the second post in the same way;
Screw the second post to the rails;
Connect the racks adjacent to the door with a horizontal jumper from the guide profile. To the crossbar of the door frame, it is attracted by the same self-tapping screws.

A special case

How to install sliding doors on plasterboard walls? If you want the door to go into the wall when opening, you will need a serious refinement of the frame design.

The frame of the blind area above the door must have a maximum thickness of 100 mm;
Under it, a wooden mortgage is installed in the frame - a bar with a section of at least 50x100 mm. He will have to perceive the vertical load from the door leaf;
Below the mortgage, two frames are formed with a gap between them. Since the thickness of the wall is limited by the width of a 100 mm profile and beam, a ceiling profile is usually used to assemble them: the height of its side walls is only 27 mm.

sheathing

So, the frame is ready, the door is installed. The next step is plasterboard wall cladding. Here are the simple rules for its installation.

The sheet is installed so that its edge falls exactly in the middle of the rack;
Start fastening from the top of the sheet - then you do not have to hold it with your hands;
Self-tapping screws are screwed in increments of 150-200 millimeters;

Tip: if you do not rely on your eye, use a span instead of a ruler. This is the name of the ancient measure of length, corresponding to the distance between the tips of the index and thumb divorced in different directions. In SI units, the span is recalculated as 17.78 cm, but in practice its length varies from 17 to 19 cm.

The distance between the attachment point and the edge of the GCR should be at least 20 mm. Otherwise, the self-tapping screw will crumble the edge when screwing in;
The head of the self-tapping screw is heated by about 1 millimeter, while the sheet shell should not break through. In this case, the fastening strength will be maximum, and the putty will easily hide the fasteners;

The sheet is screwed to all profiles that it overlaps, including guides.

Puttying

The sealing of the seams begins with their jointing: the edges of the additional sheets are cut off with a clerical knife by 2/3 of the thickness of the sheet at an angle of 45 degrees (see Puttying drywall seams: how to do it). Jointing allows you to fill the seam during puttying to its entire depth, which will reduce the likelihood of cracks in the future.

Captain Evidence suggests: semicircular factory edges do not need jointing.

Now it's time to prepare the putty. It is closed with water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of dry mix.

First, water is poured into the mixing container, and only then gypsum is poured: otherwise, dense lumps will form at the bottom, which will leave grooves when puttying. After 3-5 minutes, the putty that has absorbed water is mixed with a spatula or a drill with a whisk, and after another 5 minutes it is ready for puttying.

How to putty the seams remaining between the sheets when attaching drywall with your own hands:

Glue a sickle along the seam;
Fill the seam with putty directly through its cells;
After the putty has dried (after at least 6 hours), apply a second covering coat of putty with a wide spatula. It should hide the relief of the fiberglass mesh.

By the way: self-tapping screws also have to putty 2-3 times. Putty (even the so-called non-shrink) in practice still shrinks slightly when dried.

Do I need to putty the wall over its entire surface?

This is done in two cases:

Under the wallpaper, which is planned to be changed in the future. The separating layer between the wallpaper and the GKL shell will allow you to remove the finish coating without damaging the drywall;
If the seams between the sheets cut in place are distinguished by their thickness. A thin (1 mm) layer of putty will help level the surface.

Puttying over the entire area of drywall is carried out with a wide spatula, on which putty is applied using a narrower tool. If you do not have a lot of experience in the relevant work, it is easier to apply not one millimeter layer, but two thin layers “on a strip” perpendicular to each other.

Attention: both spatulas and utensils for mixing putty should be washed immediately after the next portion has been worked out. Otherwise, the next time the seized lumps will spoil the finish, falling under the spatula.

fine finish

It starts with sanding the wall with a grinder or hand grater.

A few tips:

Use goggles and a gauze bandage or respirator. Gypsum dust pretty irritates both the eyes and the mucous membranes of the respiratory tract;
For the duration of the grinding, close all doors to adjacent rooms and plug the remaining cracks. This will save you from having to wash white-painted furniture and other household utensils throughout the apartment;
Sand the wall with bright light falling on it at an oblique angle. Lighting will emphasize all the bumps.

Then the wall is swept from the remaining dust and primed with a brush, roller or sprayer.

Painting and wallpapering are quite standard (see Finishing drywall for wallpaper). There is only one subtlety here: you can paint the wall with any water-based paint at least half a month after puttying the joints, when the gypsum hydration processes are completely completed in them. Otherwise, they will stand out in hue, regardless of the number of layers of paint you applied.

Platband installation

Platbands are placed after the completion of the fine finish. The method of fastening depends on whether you plan to remove them in the future.

If dismantling is possible - use brass or copper nails without hats, sinking them with a hammer (so as not to leave dents); otherwise, stick the trims on liquid nails or sealant (silicone or acrylic).

Closing the opening

How to close up a hole in the wall with drywall if the door has become unnecessary?

Very simple: mount a guide profile along its perimeter, choosing its width so that after plasterboard sheathing (one- or two-layer), the plasterboard surface is flush with the surface of the main wall.

Hint: if the edges of the opening are uneven, use straight hangers to fasten the rails.

You already know the further scheme of action: after installing one or two racks, the frame is sewn up, followed by puttying the seams and fasteners.

Conclusion

We hope that we were able to answer all the questions that the reader has accumulated. Good luck!

It's not uncommon for people to remodel their homes. Especially in modern new buildings, where space is not as problematic as, for example, in Khrushchev. And if you remember the options for boxes with a free layout, it immediately becomes clear how wide you can swing in your "architectural" ideas. However, when planning to block off too large an area, you should immediately think about a drywall doorway. Otherwise, you can get into a situation where two rooms are not communicated in any way, and it is easy and simply not possible to move from one to another.

Another situation is also likely, especially in old houses: there is a huge and uncomfortable passage between the rooms. In this case, you need to think about how to reduce the doorway - and drywall is the easiest and most convenient way to do this.

Redevelopment and marking of the doorway

Let us first consider a more complex and time-consuming process, in which it is planned to install a partition that divides a room into two rooms, with a doorway made of plasterboard placed in it.

When calculating, do not forget to lay an additional 2 cm in the width of the opening: they are hidden when sheathed with sheets.

If you decide how to ennoble and reduce the doorway with drywall, then the steps will be the same, only the frame is set to the dimensions in which you see the passage between the rooms. If there is no intention to close up the GKL of the entire room, the rack profiles are attached directly to the sidewalls of the existing opening.

Finishing stage

The general principles of sheathing remain traditional, with minor additions.

The step between the fasteners in the sheets is recommended to be done within 20-30 cm. Self-tapping screws are screwed into drywall with a head deepening of 1 millimeter. If you overdid it, and the hardware went too deep (this is well determined by the fingers to the touch: a hole is felt, not a smooth area, which means that the fastener is too deep), it is unscrewed, an indent of 5 cm is made, and the screw is screwed in again. An unnecessary hole is puttied when the doorway is finished - this is also done by hand. The joints of adjacent sheets must fit on one rack profile - this must also be taken into account when erecting the frame.

Before installing the door, the usual finishing work is carried out:

The corners of the drywall doorway are reinforced with a perforated metal corner, planted on the starting putty with a mandatory check of the geometry of the entire structure.
Fasteners are sealed with the starting composition; when processing joints, a sickle is added to it.
After priming and drying, a finishing putty is applied.

When it dries too, the slopes are sanded. Since you are unlikely to paint them (or finish them in another way) under the door frame, you do not need to prime the surface again.

Door installation

The approach to solving the issue is similar to installing a door in any other material.

The door frame is assembled: the canvas is not hung on it.
The jamb is inserted into the opening. The level is carefully controlled by its strict verticality.
The box is temporarily fixed with spacer wooden wedges.
After the next check, if you are sure that the jamb is not skewed, the box is fastened with long self-tapping screws into the appropriate racks.
Spacers are inserted into the sidewalls of the door, designed to hold the geometry in the last step.
The cracks are filled with foam.

After hardening of the assembly, the excess is cut off with a sharp knife, the pegs are removed, and the final plastering and finishing is performed. And those who are looking for ways to ennoble the doorway without closing it with doors, just for visual zoning of the room, can make it in the form of an arch without a canvas.

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