How to make your own cinder block shape. Various DIY building blocks. We make a vibropressing machine

Cinder block production at home is a profitable business idea. Having received from us drawings, a description of the technology for free and with a little effort, you will receive high-quality equipment that guarantees regular earnings!

High-quality cinder block is a building material that is in demand always and everywhere. Due to its large weight and convenient size, it allows you to lay any structures of any complexity and height (from an ordinary extension to a house to industrial workshops).

Equipment for the production of cinder blocks at home

The presence of a vibrating machine will make the cinder block more dense and of high quality, avoiding the formation of unnecessary voids. The vibrator will significantly increase the number of manufactured products. Now you don't have to wait until the concrete blocks are completely set to move on to the production of another batch.

Do-it-yourself vibrating machine for the production of cinder blocks

The best option at home is a machine for 4 sections at once. In order to make such a machine, which allows you to produce about 100 cinder blocks per hour, you first need to download a 3D model of the machine:

After taking the measurements, cut out the details for the future shape from sheet metal with a thickness of about 2 millimeters.
Then the sheets are welded together in such a way as to obtain a shape without a bottom. The height of the mold is 50 millimeters higher than the height of a standard cinder block. This is done so that the solution can be applied immediately, and not added over and over again after shrinkage.
Separately, we cut out pipes equal to the height of the resulting metal mold. They will form the necessary voids. Weld holes at the ends along the diameter, making the pipe “deaf”. So the dried cinder block will be easier to get.
The cylinders must be connected to each other closer to the top, maintaining the desired factory distance. They must be firmly welded to the lifting cover.
From the outside of the form, we securely fasten the vibration motor. It will ensure the correct and rapid shrinkage of the solution. Thus, the process of vibrocasting is carried out.

Looking at the 3D model of a cinder block machine, you can easily figure out how it works and what is the principle of its operation. And the dimensions of the model allow you to freely make the same equipment according to the model with your own hands.

The kit includes drawings of a machine for the production of cinder blocks with your own hands and diagrams of simpler models of vibrating machines for the production of cinder blocks:

Note. 3D models are saved in file formats: *.sldasm (an extension of the SolidWorks 3D editor, also supports free eDrawings) and *.step (a standard for exchanging 3D graphics that is supported by most 3D editors, including free ones: FreeCAD, Blender, etc.).

Production of cinder block at home

The cinder block is made in a special form by the method of vibration shrinkage of the concrete mixture poured inside. After the material hardens, the hollowness of the block is about 30% -40% (depending on the shape - round or square) of the total area. The resulting cavities not only save consumables in the production of cinder blocks, but also serve as air cushions for soundproofing. They are also excellent for reinforcing masonry, which gives the walls maximum stability.

During manufacture, it should be noted that the standard size of one cinder block is 39 x 19 x 18.5 centimeters. This is a standard, a generally accepted value, from which builders are repelled during the design and execution of calculations. Therefore, strictly observe the parameters during the home production of building blocks.

For the production of cinder block on your own machine, you will need:

cement (M400, but better than M500);
water;
coal slag;
gravel (diameter about 10 millimeters);
sand;
plasticizer (strengthens and dries blocks much faster in 2-3 days);
mesh-seeder for cleaning sand from impurities;
concrete mixer;
shovel;
pallets on which you will dry the building blocks.

Attention! When preparing a concrete mix, you should always control the amount of water in the composition. If you exceed the water norm by 30%, then the concrete product will be exactly 2 times weaker !!!

All components of the solution are taken in the following proportion: 7 parts of slag, 2 parts of sand and gravel, 1.5 parts of cement, 0.2% plasticizer and water. The mixture should be wet and crumbly (dramatically different from the mortar for laying bricks). With strong compression in the hand, it should be kept in a lump, and when it falls to the ground, it should crumble. In the process of vibration of the machine, the mixture is compacted and visually, as if, squeezes out water, turning into a liquid solution. This is the natural process of concrete vibrocasting. If the resulting concrete is too liquid, then no vibration resistance will help ensure the integrity and strength of the cinder block, which will not dry out completely, and will soon begin to fall apart.

Financial costs for the production of 1m 3 (71 pieces) cinder blocks with minimum cost goods:

In the production of a durable cinder block (for load-bearing walls), a semi-dry mixture is prepared for thin-walled concrete products. In the article "production of paving slabs", you can get acquainted in detail with the process of preparing a high-quality and durable concrete mixture of thin-walled products.

Note. It should be noted that expanded clay concrete blocks are also produced using the same technology. Only the composition and recipe for the preparation of concrete differs.

Profitability of cinder block production

So, the cost of one square meter of steel sheet will be about $4.3. Buying a motor (you can use a used one to save money) will cost an average of $30. One meter of pipe with a diameter of about 15 mm costs $1.4. In the absence of experience in welding metal structures and the necessary equipment, be prepared to pay another $ 100 to a specialist with the necessary skills.

This means that a home vibrating machine will cost about $ 400. At the same time, the cost of materials for the solution, which is enough to produce a daily norm of 100 cinder blocks, will amount to another $ 30. A month, be prepared to spend $700 on consumables for concrete preparation, etc. As a result, you will need $1200-1300 to start your own business.

How quickly will this money pay off? The cost of one factory cinder block averages about $ 0.7 - $ 0.85. At the same time, home-made products will be sold cheaper, i.e., about $ 0.5. We will take this amount as the basis for calculating profits.

Under the condition of manufacturing 100 pieces of products per day, you can earn about $ 20. The income per month of work in the presence of an established sales will be about $ 600. As you can see, you can not only recoup your investment, but also get a profit in a short time.

As you can see, having your own vibrocasting machine for building blocks can not only simplify and reduce the cost of your construction, but also give rise to a profitable business!

In any building materials store or in the market, you can purchase special blocks used to build a building. However, building stone is not at all necessary to buy, it can be made independently.

Wall blocks have many properties:

They are strong, durable, have improved frost resistance and fire resistance. There is also another property of wall blocks - an increase in the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe premises due to the thickness of the wall blocks without reducing the quality of heat transfer. That is why wall blocks are confidently replacing the usual materials for construction. Wall blocks will help you to get high-quality building material at low cost, and therefore - high-quality construction. A house built of wall stones will be comfortable and warm, and will also save a lot of money. Moreover, the cost of the wall blocks themselves compares favorably with other building materials. Wall blocks create a feeling of comfort due to the fact that they have a heat-resistant effect, so in a room made of wall blocks you will be cool in summer and warm in winter. That is why the cost of heating is one third less than in houses built of brick. Also, a positive property of wall blocks is that the walls created from them are much lighter than walls built from bricks, thus creating less load on the foundation. This means that there is a guarantee that your house will not only be warm, but also durable and less prone to collapse. Plus, as exponentially, your costs for the delivery of wall blocks are reduced. Due to their weight (wall blocks are much lighter than, for example, bricks), the volumes of delivered material will be greater.
So, why should you choose wall blocks for building your house, the pros:

guarantee warmth, comfort, frost and fire resistance

increase the usable area of the room due to their small thickness

do not reduce the quality of heat exchange in the room

installed in a short amount of time

at their price and at the cost of their installation costs are much cheaper than other building materials

DIY blocks

I chose the dimensions of the blocks 510x250x215 mm (the volume is 14 bricks). I welded 11 molds without bottoms from sheet iron waste. From the sides welded on 2 handles. Right on the ground I spread the roofing material, put the form. To prevent the mixture from seizing with the walls of the mold, I wipe them from the inside with a rag moistened with used oil or diesel fuel. I fall asleep there hard expanded clay concrete. Ramming is not very strong. I remove the first form after backfilling the 11th - this is about 10-12 minutes later. The blocks stand still for 12 hours. Then I shift them under a canopy. They harden at a positive temperature for 24 days. I make a canopy from roofing material, tarpaulin or plastic film. Under it, the blocks will be protected from rain and sun.

Do-it-yourself blocks I tried to make blocks with voids. He inserted two wooden round timber, turned into a cone and wrapped with roofing iron. Hollow formers can be round, square, rectangular... Depending on how the blocks are laid, the thickness of the walls is 215, 250 or 510 mm.

For thick walls, it is better to make the blocks hollow, for thin walls - filled. Conventionally, walls with a thickness of 215mm without voids can be called cold, 250mm - semi-warm, 510mm with voids - warm.

To make half blocks, I insert a sheet of iron in the center of the mold. In the blanks that are used to form openings in the wall of the house, you have to make wooden plugs to secure the door and window frames.

Do-it-yourself blocks I tried to make blocks using a vibrator, but the solution goes to the bottom of the mold and the expanded clay does not bind. To prevent this from happening, I welded a common shape for several blocks. The vibrator was fixed on the side. I made the walls of the mold 1/3 higher - this is for concrete shrinkage during vibration.

Fillers can be local non-deficient materials: expanded clay, slag, sawdust, etc. I used cement, expanded clay and sand in a ratio of 1: 4: 1 to prepare the mixture.

The hardest work is the preparation of concrete. To make it a little easier, I first made a manual concrete mixer from a two-hundred-liter barrel. Its axis of rotation is shifted by 10 cm relative to the center. I welded crosspieces inside. Thus, due to the eccentric rotation of the barrel and thanks to the crosses, good mixing of the mass was ensured. For 8 revolutions of the barrel, the solution was ready.

This way I made 500 blocks. They were enough for laying a warm barn measuring 6.2x4 m and an extension to it - a cold shed.

Despite the fact that the blocks are much larger in size and mass than ordinary red bricks, the masonry techniques and the tool kit remain the same. The dressing of masonry in the corners and on straight sections of the walls is also observed. At the beginning of the laying of blocks, it is desirable to make a red brick belt on the basement or foundation (after waterproofing). It should protrude outward from the base by 30-40 mm, protecting the latter from getting wet.

Building blocks by yourself

The building block of the standard sizes is very convenient in work. The masonry goes pretty quickly, but on the other hand they are not too heavy. In addition, the walls will turn out to be standard sizes, that is, 200 or 400 millimeters.
So, the easiest way to make a mold for blocks is from a cement-bonded particle board of at least a centimeter thickness. You can also take sheet metal. To be honest, almost any material will do, but when choosing, it is important to consider how durable the form will be, whether it will be saturated with moisture, how convenient it will be to get ready-made building blocks out of it, and so on. To be guided in the choice of material for forms, first of all, should be logic.
Of course, in order to make enough blocks with your own hands, one form will be extremely small. It is better to immediately make about five or ten forms, which will be enough to start. Further, if necessary, the number of forms can be increased.
As for the solution for self-made blocks, it is recommended to use one of two options.
The first option allows you to make blocks of the so-called "cold concrete". To do this, take a traditional solution, which is prepared from sand and cement in proportions of one to four. In other words, for one part of good Portland cement, you need to take four parts of sifted building sand.
Warm concrete is prepared from cement, sand and expanded clay. The proportions in this case will look like one to four to one. That is, for one part of cement, you need to take about four parts of expanded clay and only one part of sand.
Making building blocks is not a difficult process. Forms are filled with a solution, the excess solution is removed with a trowel and I try to level the upper part of the block. By the way, the forms should be installed on a flat surface so that the solution diverges as evenly as possible under the influence of gravity.
After a few hours, the blocks can be carefully removed from the molds and laid out for complete hardening. They harden within a day, after which home-made blocks are stacked on pallets for storage or taken directly to the construction site.

Building blocks at home

Nowadays, you can buy building blocks at any building market and building materials store. Their range today is very large, you only need to make a choice and you will be delivered your order directly to your home. How to make building blocks at home
But you can go the other way - you can make building blocks with your own hands. So, consider below the basic principles of how to make building blocks at home yourself.

First you need to decide what size you plan to make the building block. The following size is considered to be the running size today - 400x200x200 mm. Blocks of such geometric parameters are not heavy, they are easy to lay when building a wall. With the help of such a block, you can easily make a wall of two types with a thickness of 200 mm and a thickness of 400 mm.

To create a form with which building blocks will be made by hand. We recommend that the form be made into several blocks at once, this will significantly speed up the work process and the prepared concrete will be better used. You can make construction at home as full-bodied and with cavities. The mortar for blocks is made using cement and sand, while the proportion must be maintained 1 to 4 (this is the so-called cold concrete). Also, you can add expanded clay, sawdust, slag or glass to the concrete mixture (such concrete is also called warm concrete). Many people ask themselves: how to make building blocks yourself so that they do not stick to the mold and have a flat and smooth outer surface. To do this, you need to do the following - apply machine oil to the walls of the mold, and even better working off.

When pouring building blocks at home, the form must first be filled by 45-50%, then the concrete should be compacted and the mixture should be uniformly shaped. After that, you can fill the form completely again, tamp, level the top side, remove the remains of the concrete mixture from the brick form and let it harden. The concrete mixture should be allowed to harden for about 30 minutes. Then you carefully remove the form and you can carry out the next cycle of work. The blocks will fully harden only after 24 hours. Care should be taken that the blocks are protected from direct sunlight and rain until completely dry.

So, you already know how to make building blocks yourself at home, now you can safely get to work. And if you make a form of at least a dozen blocks for one run, then a day you are quite capable of making 120-150 blocks without outside help

In any building materials store or in the market, you can purchase special blocks used to build a building. However, building stone is not at all necessary to buy, it can be made independently. Our article will tell you how to make building blocks with your own hands.

Determine in advance the desired dimensions of the future building block. The most common and most popular size: 400x200x200 millimeters. Such a building stone is not too heavy, but the thickness of the wall can be 200 or 400 mm (depending on personal preferences).
For future building blocks, it is necessary to design forms. It is advisable to use a cement-bonded particle board with a thickness of 10 mm and sheet metal (2-3 mm). A stone mold can also be made from wood that has been sanded on the inside.

Make the form into one or more blocks (this will speed up the process of making building stone). Do-it-yourself blocks can be hollow or solid (depending on personal preference), which affects the design of the mold.

For "cold concrete", prepare a mortar for blocks from cement and sand (proportion 1: 4), and for "warm concrete" - from cement, expanded clay and sand in a ratio of 1: 4: 1. Then fill the "raw" block shape halfway. Tamp the solution (you can use the handle of a shovel) and only after that complete the form with the missing “raw materials”.

Align the upper surface of the future block with a building rule, that is, remove excess mortar with this tool. After thirty to forty minutes, carefully remove the block from the mold, and form a new building stone in it.

For complete hardening of the solution, the blocks are carefully transported to a special place, protected from the sun and rain. The blocks will fully harden in twenty-four hours.

Lightweight wall blocks and their advantages.

In addition to the traditional material for building walls - bricks, wall block materials such as expanded clay concrete, aerated concrete and foam concrete are increasingly used in private housing construction today. What are their differences, features, advantages and disadvantages?

LEAKED CONCRETE.

Features: Expanded clay concrete blocks are made from expanded clay (foamed and fired clay), used as a filler with fractions of 5-10 mm, water and cement.
Advantages: In terms of thermal insulation characteristics, it surpasses brick, gas and foam concrete. Resistant to moisture. High strength, frost resistance

AERABLE CONCRETE

Features: Aerated concrete is obtained by adding a blowing agent (aluminum powder) to a mixture of lime, cement, quartz sand. The material gains strength at elevated pressure and high temperature in autoclave ovens. Aerated concrete is porous both inside and outside, i.e. its porous. Products are manufactured in the factory, so the quality of products is guaranteed.
Advantages: Greater geometric dimensional accuracy, higher rates of heat and sound insulation, strength.

FOAM CONCRETE

Features: Foam concrete (non-autoclaved cellular concrete) is made from a mixture of water, sand, cement and a foaming agent. It hardens naturally in special forms. The structure of foam concrete is closed bubbles of different sizes. Products can be produced privately, directly on the construction site. Homemade blocks do not always correspond to the declared characteristics.
Advantages: Due to the closed pore structure, moisture absorption is lower.
Aerated concrete and foam concrete have a high accuracy of geometric dimensions, which allows them to be used during installation with adhesive mixtures, rather than ordinary masonry mortar. The thickness of the joint from the adhesive mixture is 2-3 mm, and from the masonry mortar - 10-12 mm. This makes it possible to make the wall almost homogeneous, as warm as possible.

The common advantage of all considered materials is:
The large porosity of the materials provides high thermal insulation properties, excellent sound insulation characteristics. Due to the peculiarities of the structure of the material, the walls "breathe". The blocks are non-combustible, do not melt and do not emit harmful substances when heated. Due to their low weight, they significantly reduce the load on the foundation.

The common disadvantage of all considered materials is:
Despite the high thermal insulation performance, walls made of these materials need to be insulated. The porosity of the blocks requires mandatory protection of the walls of the building from atmospheric precipitation. At the same time, it is necessary to maintain the vapor permeability of the structure.

In aerated concrete and foam concrete, an additional disadvantage can be considered low bending strength. Reinforcement must be carried out every three rows of masonry. A strip monolithic foundation or a monolithic basement is required.

How to make a wall block

Building blocks have a lot of advantages. Among them are the convenience and speed of construction of buildings, the relative cheapness of construction, and others. Wall blocks are one of the few materials with which you can build a house from scratch almost alone. If you have a lot of free time and not a lot of money, you can try making wall blocks yourself.

You will need

Cement brand M400;
- filler (expanded clay, slag, etc.);
- SDO additive (wood saponified resin);
- sand;
- shovel;
- containers for measuring and stirring the solution;
- block form.

For 1 m³ of expanded clay concrete M75:
- cement M400 - 250 kg;
- expanded clay - 1.05 m³;
- sand - 0.2 m³;
- wood saponified resin (SDO) - 0.3 kg;
- water - 0.25-0.35 m³.

For 1 m³ cinder block M50:
- cement M400 - 200 kg;
- slag - 0.7 m³;
- sand - 0.25 m³;
- lime - 50 kg;
- water 0.1–0.15 m³.

Instruction

1 Choose the type of block that suits you best

Wall blocks can be made on the basis of various binders and fillers. Cement is used as the main component. The choice of fillers is much wider. It can be sand, expanded clay, slag, sawdust, etc. Depending on the type of fillers and their ratios with each other, it is possible to obtain a material that differs in strength, thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, frost resistance. When making wall blocks with your own hands, slag or expanded clay are most often chosen as fillers. Slag and expanded clay blocks have good performance properties - high thermal insulation combined with sufficient strength - and at the same time are relatively cheap. Slag can often be purchased for free or at a meager price.

2 Decide on the block brand

The strength of the building block, characterized by its brand, is determined by the relative content of cement and fillers. By increasing the amount of cement and sand relative to expanded clay and slag, it is possible to increase the strength of the block. However, it should be remembered that at the same time its thermal insulation properties are reduced. Between strength and thermal insulation, it is necessary to find a middle ground.

3 Decide on block sizes

The most common is the standard size 390x190x188 mm. However, you can make blocks of any size. Before settling on a specific size, you should determine the thickness of the wall of the building for which the blocks are intended, and then, based on it, choose the size of the block.

4 Make, buy or rent a block making machine

You can do without a machine tool by making the simplest collapsible forms (matrices) from sheet metal, wood or plastic. However, in this case, a large number of molds will be required, since the poured blocks will have to stay in the molds for some time to harden. Slag block machines, due to the presence of a vibrator, allow you to unload the block immediately after molding. If you intend to produce a large number of blocks, it is better to do this with a machine. The time gain will be huge.

5 Prepare the working mixture

Measure all the components (cement, sand, slag or expanded clay, lime) in the required proportion and mix them well in the sealing container. After that, add water with LMS dissolved in it. Depending on the moisture content of the water fillers, a different amount may be required, so add it gradually, stirring and evaluating the mobility of the mixture. Don't over water. The stiffer (less mobile) the mixture, the stronger the blocks are obtained.

6 Fill the mold with the mixture

If you use manual collapsible molds, when pouring, carefully compact the mixture in the mold with a trowel or shovel until the surface is smooth and covered with a thin layer of water. When using a cinder block machine to compact the mixture, it is enough to turn on the vibrator for a few seconds (5-8).

7 While the blocks are curing, keep their surfaces moist. This can be achieved by regularly pouring water on the blocks or by covering them with plastic wrap. The blocks should solidify when in the shade.

Wall blocks have long been one of the most common building materials. When building a garage, residential building or other outbuildings for building walls, the cheapest building materials are cinder blocks. They are made from almost any waste material. At the same time, cinder blocks are laid into the walls not only on a sand-cement mortar, but also on a clay mortar, which further reduces the cost of construction. Unlike brick, building blocks are much easier to do at home with your own hands. The process of making cinder blocks and the technology is quite simple and accessible to anyone who wants to save money and who likes to do it himself.

Briefly, what is a cinder block?
According to the prevailing opinion, cinder blocks are commonly understood as blocks made by vibrocompression (vibroforming) from a concrete solution, the main components of the solution are slag and cement as the main binder. However, today cinder blocks are conditionally called any building blocks obtained by vibrocompression (vibroforming) from a concrete solution. The presence of slag is not necessary - as components of the concrete solution there can be: slag, granite screenings, granite rubble, river rubble, gravel, brick and concrete breakage, hardened cement breakage, glass breakage, expanded clay and even sand.
Usually the size of the cinder block is in the range of 200 mm by 200 mm by 400 mm or less. There are two types of cinder blocks - hollow and solid. There are a lot of varieties of blocks: these are ordinary wall blocks (for example, cinder block, smooth block 140), wall blocks (used for building partitions indoors, has a thickness of 90 mm), decorative blocks for walls (decorative block 190), blocks for fences ( decorative block 140, decorative corner block), blocks for finishing facades (facade stone), etc. At home, you can also make clay bricks - the choice is yours.

For the manufacture of cinder blocks, you need two things: shape and raw materials.

Form options for cinder blocks

Form from sheet metal 3 mm thick. Together with assistants, using a concrete mixer, you can “produce” up to 300 pieces of blocks per day without much effort. Is it a lot or a little? Judge for yourself: a 6x4 m garage will require 450 such blocks, and 1000 pieces per floor of a 6.5x8 m house.

Form for concrete blocks (all dimensions are internal, welds are external).

Block making mortar prepared like this. Knead a slightly moistened mixture (the amount of water is determined empirically) in the proportion: cement - 1 part, slag or expanded clay - from 7 to 12 (the proportion is given for M400 cement). Having set the form on a flat area, fill it with mortar, ram it with a manual tamper and, having aligned along the upper edge, cut off the excess with a metal strip. Now carefully remove the form (it is without a bottom) - the block is ready.

Place the form side by side and repeat the process. At the end of the work, do not forget to thoroughly wash the mold with water. After 24 hours, the blocks can already be stored (no more than three in height), making room for the next batch. The size of the form is given in case you decide to lay walls with an additional 1/2 brick cladding. If your building will have walls plastered on both sides, then you can take arbitrary sizes - if only you could then lift such a block with your hands. And when laying walls with a thickness of 50 cm, do not forget to “bandage” with a bonded brick row every two rows of blocks.

The sizes of home-made cinder blocks can be chosen "for yourself".
The simplest form, which satisfied me the most, I made as follows. I picked up planed boards with a width along the height of the cinder block (140 mm). The length of the board should be no more than 2 m, since working with a longer form is more difficult: you have to do a lot of unnecessary movements. Next you need cross bars. The two extreme crossbars are connected to the longitudinal boards "on sliding grooves" (Fig.).

Form for three cinder blocks

On the inside of the longitudinal boards (between the crossbars), every 140 mm, a cut is made with a hacksaw and a chisel, transverse grooves with a depth of 7 ... 8 mm. The width of the cut depends on the thickness of the dividing plates made of sheet iron, textolite, getinaks. Plates from other durable sheet material will also work, as long as it is smooth enough. From fig. 1 it is clear how to make a mold. To describe it for a long time and there is no point, I just want to say that the finished form is placed on an absolutely flat surface before pouring the solution into it. It is advisable to paint all parts of the mold made of wood with any oil paint, which will make it easier to remove the cinder blocks from the mold. Each time, before pouring into the solution form, all its internal surfaces are wiped with solar oil (diesel oil) or used engine oil. Rub lightly, not too much. To reduce the consumption of the solution, and cinder blocks turned out to be light and with voids, - and this is additional heat in the room, - the molds are filled with a solution to half, after which champagne bottles are pressed into the solution.

Form filled with mortar

If, after installing the bottles, the level of the solution does not rise enough, the required amount of solution (up to the top of the mold) is added with a trowel. After 2 ... 3 hours, the solution will significantly settle and get stronger, then the bottles are pulled out, carefully turning them around the axis, and immediately washed with water, otherwise the solution will firmly stick to them and the bottles will be unsuitable for further use.
The process of removing cinder blocks from the mold is very simple. Just lightly tap the mold around the perimeter with a hammer and disassemble it. The side boards are easy to separate, but the separation plates are somewhat more difficult to remove. You will have to carefully beat with a hammer on the protruding plate from above and slightly to the side.
Every day, that is, after 24 hours, I took out the almost hardened cinder blocks from the mold and poured the solution into it again. I did not use any compaction of the solution with a rammer or with the help of vibration. A few words about the solution. Despite the fact that it was quite liquid, cinder blocks, after appropriate exposure, acquired such strength that they could then be split or hewn with great difficulty.
For one part of cement brand "400" I took 9 or even 10 parts of slag. There was no marriage. Why did I tell this? Yes, in order to quickly make a solid number of excellent quality cinder blocks with just a few forms. I made cinder blocks in the evening after work every day, and I will say that this work was not a burden for me.I don’t have a concrete mixer and I knead the mortar manually in a pallet with a capacity of 300 p. .

And another option for self-production of blocks. Sheet metal mold.

I chose the dimensions of the blocks 510x250x215 mm (the volume is 14 bricks). I welded 11 molds without bottoms from sheet iron waste. From the sides welded on 2 handles.

Right on the ground I spread the roofing material, put the form. To prevent the mixture from seizing with the walls of the mold, I wipe them from the inside with a rag moistened with used oil or diesel fuel. I fall asleep there hard expanded clay concrete. Ramming is not very strong. I remove the first form after backfilling the 11th - this is about 10-12 minutes later. The blocks stand still for 12 hours. Then I shift them under a canopy. They harden at a positive temperature for 24 days. I make a canopy from roofing material, tarpaulin or plastic film. Under it, the blocks will be protected from rain and sun.

Tried make blocks with voids. He inserted two wooden round timber, turned into a cone and wrapped with roofing iron. Hollow formers can be round, square, rectangular ... Depending on how the blocks are laid, the wall thickness is 215, 250 or 510 mm.

For thick walls, it is better to make the blocks hollow, for thin walls - filled. Conventionally, walls with a thickness of 215 mm without voids can be called cold, 250 mm - semi-warm, 510 mm with voids - warm.

Tried make building blocks using a vibrator, but the solution goes to the bottom of the mold and the expanded clay does not bind. To prevent this from happening, I welded a common shape for several blocks. The vibrator was fixed on the side. I made the walls of the mold 1/3 higher - this is for concrete shrinkage during vibration.

Fillers can be local non-deficient materials: expanded clay, slag, sawdust, etc. I used cement, expanded clay and sand in a ratio of 1: 4: 1 to prepare the mixture.

The hardest work is the preparation of concrete. It is advisable to use a simple home-made concrete mixer or a ready-made purchased one.

Cinder blocks were and are one of the most popular materials for the construction of various structures in construction. Their characteristic strength, as well as good thermal insulation properties, make it possible to build quickly and relatively easily and quite cheaply. Both a professional and an inexperienced bricklayer can build from them.

Cinder block is a modern analogue of many natural building materials. Recently, it has been very popular with summer residents and owners of country houses, as it has a lot of advantages, including low price and low weight, especially from a cinder block you can build any type of building alone - from a small shed to a bathhouse or residential building. Of course, this material has its drawbacks, but they can be quickly eliminated by additional facing works.

The peculiarity of this building material is that, if necessary, it can be made independently at home. For example, when you have a limited budget or just need blocks of non-standard sizes. In this article, we will talk about the technology for the production of cinder blocks with our own hands, about the basic requirements, rules and nuances of manufacturing, and also give a couple of tips and recommendations.

General information

Cinder block - a material that is made by vibrocompression of a concrete solution, has a rectangular shape with technological voids inside (up to three) of various shapes, a standardized size of 18.8x19x39 cm.

There are blocks without voids - they are called full-bodied. They are much less common, since hollow cinder blocks are cheaper and have better thermal and sound insulation characteristics. The volume of voids does not exceed 30% of the total volume of each unit.

You can often hear that if you use top quality cement in the manufacture of cinder blocks, then you can build a reliable foundation for a bathhouse or a house from home-made blocks. But this is not so, because the blocks for the base must withstand heavy loads. Therefore, for the construction of a bathhouse or a residential building, we recommend that you still purchase raw materials in a specialized building market or replace them with foam blocks.

When making cinder blocks at home, you will need a special mold, ideally made of metal, in order to use it for several cycles in a row, and a special vibrating machine. It is also best if you have a drawing of the blocks themselves, because without it you can get absolutely not what you originally wanted.

If you wish, you can change the parameters of the standard drawing, depending on the type of building and the goal you want to achieve.

For home production you will need:

coarse sand;
Blast furnace slag or fine screening of crushed stone, crushed expanded clay;
Cement brand not lower than M400;
Vibrating table and vibrating machine;
Form for cinder block.

On average, one bag of cement is enough to produce 36 standard-sized cinder blocks.

The most important characteristic of a quality material is its geometry. They must have perfectly even edges, otherwise, if there are defects, irregularities, and so on, it will be impossible to lay. In order to achieve ideal geometry, it is necessary to fill the solution into the mold not just to the brim, but with a small “slide”, since the solution will shrink a little during vibration.

Mixing the solution

First you need to understand that there is no perfect recipe for mixing mortar. Each master is able to change the ratio of the ingredients included in the composition, but if you are creating cinder blocks for the first time with your own hands, then you should adhere to the standard composition:

7 parts of slag;
2 parts of sand or gravel fraction 0.5-1.5 cm;
1.5 parts of cement grade M400 or better M500;
2-3 parts of water;

Expanded clay, clay, gypsum, gravel, perlite and many other analogs can be used as the main filler instead of blast-furnace slag. But there is one important rule - if slag is chosen as the main filler, then the addition of other additives is strictly not recommended.

Particular attention is paid to the amount of water in the mixture. The solution should not be too liquid or vice versa.

Also, 5 grams of a plasticizer can be added to the mixture for each block, which will help increase the thermal performance, protect the material from moisture and low temperatures.

If you would like to get colored cinder blocks, then you can add a little chalk or crushed brick to the solution.

In order to verify the quality, you can conduct a simple test: take a little solution in your hand, crumple it into a ball and throw it on a flat surface. If it crumbled from a collision, but upon reverse compression, it regained the shape of a circle - such a mixture can be safely used in construction.

Manufacturing technology

In the case when you do not plan large-scale construction work, the construction of a multi-storey building, and so on, blocks can be created without vibrocompression.

Form Assembly

Assembling a form is not a difficult process. The form is made of wood or metal, its dimensions must correspond to the dimensions of the future cinder blocks, on average it is 40x20x20 or 39x18.8x19 cm.

The design consists of a bottom and side walls. The edges of the mold are made from sheets of metal 5-6 mm thick. The walls are welded together or notches are made in the transverse and longitudinal walls with a grinder, with the help of which they are attached.

If desired, and also in order to speed up the process, you can assemble a form with several cells 2,3,4 and even 6 or 8. To do this, just increase the length and width of all faces and install additional partitions between the cells.

To create hollow blocks, cylinders made of wood or metal are attached to the bottom using ordinary hardware (screws or nails), usually 2-3 pieces. To save money and make your work easier, you can use ordinary empty bottles instead of cylinders.

If you use wood as the walls of the form, then they must be painted with oil paint so that the solution does not stick to the wood.

Manufacturing with a mold

Ideally, for the cinder block production process, find a secluded room with a good ventilation system, a flat floor and dry air.

Step by step instructions for the production of blocks using the form:

To begin with, all prepared components must be placed in a concrete mixer, adhering to the above proportions.
When the solution is ready, they fill out the form. In order to create voids in the thickness of the blocks, bottles are placed inside the mold with their neck up, usually two or three, pre-filled with water.
The mixture is carefully compacted so that it fills all the voids and removes air bubbles, because the more air the block contains, the less high-quality and reliable it is.

The solution is left for 5-6 hours, after which the bottles are removed, and the blocks themselves are left in the form for another day. After the blocks are taken out and stored in stacks in a dry place inaccessible to sunlight. Dry them for 28 days, so that the solution completely hardens and gains its ultimate strength.

In order to prevent cracking and other deformations, the blocks must be sprayed with a small amount of water for the first few days, after which they should be wrapped with a layer of plastic film.

Production with a vibrating machine

The vibrating machine allows you to speed up and facilitate the production of cinder blocks at times, but the price of such a unit is not quite small. Therefore, for a one-time use, it is better not to buy a machine or assemble it yourself, although in this case you will need certain knowledge in electrical and engineering.

The price of a machine depends on three main factors: manufacturer, power and productivity.

Here are 3 simple steps for making blocks at home using a vibrating machine:

The mixture in the required proportions is kneaded in a concrete mixer.
The solution is filled into a mold with a small slide. After 5-10 seconds, the vibrator is turned on, the solution is deposited. The procedure is repeated until the moment when the clamp settles on the stopper.
Then the machine turns on again for 10-15 seconds, and the form is removed without turning off the unit.

Within a week (5-7 days), the blocks are dried, and their complete hardening occurs no earlier than a month later.

Cinder blocks are stored in pyramidal piles up to one hundred units in each pile.

Blocks made with the addition of cement are stronger and more durable. Lime blocks cope with loads a little worse.
During drying, do not place the blocks on top of each other closely. This can be done only after the solution has completely dried.
If sand is replaced with small granules, then the technical characteristics of such a material will only increase.
If you want to save money, you can combine cement and lime in a ratio of 3 to 1. This will not affect the quality in any way.
Remember, the thicker the solution, the faster the block will dry.
Immediately before pouring the form, it must be cleaned and wiped. To do this, use diesel fuel, used engine oil, and so on. This manipulation will prevent the solution from sticking to the matrix.

Despite the fact that wood and brick are leaders in the construction markets, many craftsmen have learned to save money by making inexpensive, but high-quality material - cinder block. Owners of summer cottages are attracted by a simple production technology. A machine for making cinder blocks at home can be bought at any construction market. By adhering to the recipe, it is possible to produce blocks of fairly decent quality without much difficulty in a short time.

This material has been known for a long time. It is attractive in that it provides the building with all the necessary qualities, including durability, and makes it possible to carry out work at low financial costs. But before you figure out how to make cinder blocks with your own hands, it is worth dwelling on their main characteristics and use.

Initially, the technology for the production of cinder blocks provided for the use of blast-furnace waste as a filler in the production of concrete solutions. But over time, crushed granite, expanded clay, brick battle and some other materials began to be used as such. But the common name has remained - "cinder blocks".

Such wall stones (another name) can be ordinary and facial, hollow or full-bodied. The choice depends on the place of their installation and operating conditions. The production technology is also different: casting, vibrocompression and a number of other methods. Moreover, the binder can be not only traditionally used cement, but also gypsum, lime, clay, as well as substances based on the same slags.

Product Features

1. The ability to manufacture cinder blocks on their own at home.

2. Diversity of methodology. In addition to autoclaving, the material can be dried either at ambient temperature or by steam treatment.

3. Minimum heat loss of the building.

4. Low cost and short construction time. Given the size of the blocks, the walls are built quickly. And if we take into account that the consumption of the solution is small, then less time is spent on its preparation.

5. By changing the proportions for the cinder block, it is possible to give the product certain qualities required at the place of application.

6. Receiving products of any size and shape, which greatly increases the usability and in many cases greatly facilitates installation.

But it is worth noting the existing shortcomings:

From an environmental point of view, there are many questions. Especially for products containing blast-furnace slag;
low indicators characterizing frost resistance;
from the point of view of moisture absorption, the material needs enhanced protection;
fragility. The cinder block is clearly not suitable for mounting the foundation. When erecting walls, the height and expected load should also be taken into account.

Application

As a rule, for the construction of low-rise buildings for various purposes. There is an opinion that cinder blocks can also be used for building foundations if they contain cement of “high” grades. However, practitioners do not advise doing this and choosing a different material for the foundation of the house.
As an additional insulation in frame structures.

According to reviews, you can prepare cinder blocks on your own, moreover, without having practical skills. The main thing is to follow the recommendations of professionals. Consider the method of manufacturing at home.

Instructions on how to make a cinder block yourself

1. Making a homemade cinder block machine. The easiest option is from smooth boards. A long box is knocked out of them, in which removable partitions are installed. They can be made of any rigid material: wood, plywood, metal, plastic. To fix them in the boards, grooves are cut at appropriate distances. The dimensions of the cells depend on the required dimensions of the products.

Form drawings for cinder blocks

In order to exclude deformation of the box from moisture during the production process, all internal surfaces are painted.

The finished form must be placed on a solid, even base.

2. Slag preparation. It is necessary to mix its fractions of different sizes. Each of them gives certain properties to the final product. Large ones reduce heat loss, but at the same time reduce strength. Small ones are the opposite. Mixing allows you to get the "golden mean". Ratio: 3 parts small - 7 parts large. To do this, the raw material is sieved several times through sieves with different cells.

The slag is moistened 5-6 hours prior to the preparation of the composition. This will allow the grains of cement to form a better “bond” with the aggregate fractions.

3. Solution preparation. The proportion is 1 to 10 (cement - slag). The main thing is to mix thoroughly. It is necessary to foresee in advance in what volume of capacity it is to be prepared.

4. Filling the solution. If the block should be full-bodied, then the cells of the form are filled, a little short of the top level. The preparation of hollow products involves making rigid “inserts”, which, after excavation, will be left in the cavity block. You can use bottles, including plastic ones. But they must be filled with water and clogged. After 3-4 hours, the bottles are removed, and they need to be unscrewed so as not to “disturb” the whole mass.

You can also set up industrial production at home. The form must have carrying handles, since after filling it with a solution, it is placed on a vibrating table. You can make it yourself, or you can buy it. But it will cost from 20,000 rubles or more, depending on the configuration. A vibrating sieve is also on sale - from 26,000 rubles.

Practical Tips

The blocks prepared on the basis of cement have the greatest strength. In second place - from lime.
To increase the strength of products, it is necessary to replace some of the small slag granules with sand.
Mixing cement with lime (or clay) in a ratio of 3:1 will save money without sacrificing quality.
Before pouring the solution, the insides of the mold are wiped to prevent the blocks from sticking to the bottom and walls. This is done with diesel fuel, used oil and the like. After removing the products, the mold is also cleaned and dried, and only then the manufacturing process is resumed.
The thicker the solution, the faster it hardens. In this case, the proportion for him is 1:8.

Articles

Categories

Popular