Ventilated facade installation of large-sized panels. The correct device for a ventilated facade with your own hands. Marking on the wall

The device of a ventilated facade is a responsible event, the correct implementation of which depends on the observance of technological nuances and the choice of a material suitable for work. This design is designed to improve the technical characteristics of the object and save it from numerous problems. Due to the presence of a gap between the cladding and the base, air flows freely circulate without violating the protective properties of the surface.

Ventilated facades play an important role in maintaining the durability and reliability of the building. The fact is that it is thanks to their device that the walls do not lose the possibility of free steam exchange. Simply put, they breathe. This avoids the accumulation of moisture, which leads to the destruction of the structure, as well as the appearance of mold and mildew. A "pillow" is formed, which protects the building from seasonal temperature fluctuations and creates a more comfortable environment for indoor living.

What is such a construction? A ventilation facade is an external cladding of a private or multi-storey building, which has a technical gap between the base (insulation) and the finishing material. Additionally, there are holes in the front part that provide free air flow.

To arrange a ventilated facade with your own hands for a cottage or house, you do not need to have special skills and use sophisticated equipment. But work with industrial, warehouse or high-rise residential buildings requires special approvals and calculations, depending on the specifics of the object.

Varieties of designs

Existing types of ventilated facades differ in the materials used and the general installation technology.

Frame option

This is the simplest and most popular method. Its peculiarity is that a metal, wooden or combined crate is being erected along the perimeter of the building. It may include a number of layers that are needed to keep warm, protect the house from excess moisture and better vapor exchange.

When building a frame, the following materials are used as external cladding:

Porcelain tile. This is a product of artificial origin, made from pressed and baked clay. It is produced in the form of plates, which are characterized by high weight and good resistance to impact. The peculiarity of fastening porcelain stoneware is that the elements are installed on the frame using special clamps (brackets). Gaps are formed between the fragments, which contribute to better ventilation. But this option needs enhanced protection against moisture penetration.
Composite or other types of panels. The production technology makes it possible to obtain a reliable and lightweight material that has excellent properties. Panels can be mounted in various ways that allow you to create an open or closed joint. At the same time, open gaps can be equipped with a special moisture barrier.
Glass panels. They are mainly used when working with multi-storey office or industrial facilities. Difficult to operate, so installation is carried out only by professionals.

Advantages and disadvantages of frame ventilated facades

Frame structures have a number of advantages that distinguish them from other ways to create external cladding.

Advantages:

Fast erection. If all components are present, installation can be carried out in a short time. In addition, if the wall is without significant damage, serious preparation is not needed.
Protection. The design reliably protects the house from various kinds of influences, and also increases durability, since there is no moisture stagnation due to free vapor permeability.
Decorative. Thanks to a rich assortment of materials for cladding, you can choose an option that will meet all requirements and preferences.

There are also disadvantages:

The need for accurate and correct execution of work. It is technical errors (inappropriate gap size, lack of additional ventilation holes) that lead to undesirable consequences.
Difficulty when using products that are laid on glue. So, the use of artificial and natural stone or clinker tiles is very difficult. But there is a way out: when choosing such products, the frame is pre-strengthened and sheathed with tiled materials. The work must be carried out with great care, because serious requirements are imposed on the design.

In any case, ventilated facades are gaining more and more popularity. This is facilitated by a variety of finishing products and durability of the surface. External cladding, with a properly erected frame, can be easily replaced with a more modern one.

It is used in the absence of crates. This technology involves the use of materials that are installed at some distance from the surface. A classic example is facing brick. The masonry is mounted so that a ventilation gap is formed. For its functioning in the lower and upper rows of bricks, areas without mortar are left between the parts. Often the top row is laid out with a gap, which is covered by a decorative strip.

On a note! This method is more labor intensive. To obtain a high-quality result, it is necessary to observe many nuances, including the correct distribution of a reinforcing or wire bundle. Therefore, the first option is preferable, especially when performed independently.

Features of the device of a ventilated facade

Such facades have a certain device scheme that should not be violated:

The top layer is a lining of any suitable material. It is impossible to allow the creation of a continuous coating, completely devoid of holes.
Frame racks. They hold the finish with special fasteners.
ventilation gap. It is he who creates the desired effect and protects the structure from the accumulation of moisture and temperature changes.
Membrane. Closes the thermal insulation material and promotes vapor permeability.
insulation layer. For this purpose, suitable products are used.
Frame fixation. Brackets are installed in different ways, fastening directly to the base is considered preferable.

When an object is located near a source of strong noise, an additional layer of sound insulation is laid.

Mounting technology

To create a ventilated structure with your own hands, you must perform a series of sequential steps.

The result will be a facade that will reliably protect the house from various influences and create a special microclimate.

Over the past decade, building codes for building facades have become somewhat tougher. The ventilated facade, as a system of buildings for protection against the aggressive effects of climate, has been used in Russia for more than ten years, but every year it improves, new insulation materials, wall cladding materials and fastening structures are used. Consider what it is and what are the pros and cons of installation.

Ventilated house facade

To protect the walls from exposure to moisture, temperature differences and other climatic inconveniences, the house was always covered with special materials. In the middle of the twentieth century, special systems were developed in Germany, which subsequently became widespread throughout Europe. These structures made it possible to freely circulate air between the wall and the facing material, which reduced the heat loss of the building and brought the dew point outside the walls.

Diverse profiles

Ventilated is the technology of fastening the facade to a metal profile. It can be stainless steel, galvanized, aluminum.

In most cases, for additional protection of the house, insulation is attached to the wall using dish-shaped dowels or similar fasteners. Its installation is carried out with a gap with the front panel. This gap has a different width from 30 to 50 mm. It is thanks to this layer that ventilation occurs between the insulation and decorative plates. The outer layer is made from various materials.

Sectional view

Advantages and disadvantages of ventilated facades

Today, the improvement has affected all parts of the design, and it has its pros and cons.

The advantages of ventilated facades are:

First of all, it is protection from wind and precipitation, which eventually destroy the building.
Thanks to the gap, the dew point is carried out beyond the wall of the house.
With high-quality cladding, summer overheating is not terrible for walls and interiors, since the space between the panels and the wall is a natural cooling pad.
Such buildings have additional soundproofing and sound-absorbing characteristics.
Space heating is produced with significant savings, as heat losses are reduced.
The possibility of installing lightning protection frames reduces the risk of harm from electromagnetic radiation and thus protects expensive equipment and the health of the owners of the house.
Containment of building deformations that occur under the influence of temperature differences. The design levels out changes in the building frame during different periods of the year, which leads to containment and elimination of stress in the building. Thanks to this feature, the frame can be mounted almost immediately after the construction of the building.
Modern frames allow you to use different textures to cover the walls.

Advantages

There are also disadvantages that must be considered during installation and operation:

When constructing a building, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the cladding and frame, its heat-conducting and moisture-absorbing properties. The additional, unaccounted for weight of the building can lead to excessive settling of the foundation and wear to the main walls. Unaccounted for physical and chemical characteristics will lead to the destruction of the walls and the lack of comfort in the house, and not vice versa.
Installation of panels requires highly qualified installers, since in the absence of compliance with technical standards, you can not get any of the above advantages.
Installation of special panels produced in compliance with GOST and SNIP is required. When buying a facade material, study its properties. The canopy of flammable materials is not allowed!

Types of hinged ventilated facades

A close relative of hinged facades is metal siding, but the former are always square or rectangular in shape and are attached not to the wall of the house itself, but to the metal frame. In addition, hinged panels cannot be installed on buildings higher than 80 meters. Today, a huge number of types of decorative protective plates are known, but they can be divided into several main groups:

Cassette panels. The most common cassette boards are aluminum composite. They are made of two sheets of aluminum with a polymer gasket. They are easy to bend, easy to fasten and have a small weight. The degree of fire resistance of aluminum composites can be different. Thickness varies up to 6 mm. Cassette panels are also made of galvanized steel. They are fire resistant, impact resistant and have a long service life.
HDL - high pressure laminate. Several layers of wood and paper pressed under high pressure. The thickness can reach 25mm. The disadvantage of this material is its high cost, although environmental friendliness and aesthetics attract.
Linear. Special metal panels made according to the dimensions of the building.
Glass. Made of impact-resistant glass, these plates have an expensive appearance and a high price. In addition, their installation is one of the most difficult.
Slabs of artificial stone. They are made from agglomerate chips, therefore they are also called agglomerate. They are very heavy, and therefore are mounted on a steel frame. These are one of the strongest and safest panels.

Installation of porcelain tiles

From porcelain stoneware

Porcelain stoneware has high strength, fire resistance, wear resistance, frost resistance and almost complete immunity to acids and other harmful chemical compounds. The ratio between price and quality is favorable, therefore it is in special demand in low-rise construction. For use as hinged facades, only retified porcelain stoneware is used. It differs from conventional slabs in that the surface and edges of the slabs are processed in a special way, achieving the ideal quality and dimensions of the slabs. The advantages of porcelain stoneware slabs are obvious:

service life of more than 30 years;
ecological purity of the material - the complete absence of radiation background;
a variety of colors;
fade resistance;
relatively low price compared to materials of a similar class: marble, natural stone.

From fiber cement boards

FCPs are made of high quality concrete and synthetic fibers. The largest manufacturers of this construction siding are Russian and Japanese companies. The properties of fiber cement give it the right to be considered one of the most popular types of hinged siding:

light weight;
frost resistance;
long-term color retention;
soundproofing qualities;
self-cleaning ability.

Fiber cement panels

It is impossible not to say about the decorative properties of fiber cement siding. This material can imitate any natural surface. “Wooden” FTPs do not outwardly differ from natural wood, but do not have its negative properties. Marbled slabs have all the properties and appearance of marble. Very often, FTP is used instead of natural stone.

Ventilated facade installation technology

If you decide to make a ventilated facade with your own hands or want to study the technology and sequence of work, then this section is for you. It is immediately necessary to make a reservation that the installation of hinged protection of the walls of a building is not such a simple thing. It requires basic knowledge of building technologies and the properties of various materials. It takes time and physical endurance. Calculate all the pros and cons, and then get to work. Of course, installing ventilated panels yourself can save you a substantial amount of money, and if you make the crate yourself, then the cost savings will be maximum.

Ventilated façade sheathing

So, lattice. This is the same frame that was already mentioned at the beginning of the article. It is attached to the wall of the building, and a heater, a membrane and a decorative protective plate are mounted on it. To do everything right, you need to have an idea of \u200b\u200bthe simplest design of the crate.

The first layer of the crate of a private house

Wooden crate

It is easiest to make a wooden crate on your own. To do this, you will need bars with a thickness of 40-50 mm and a width equal to the height of the insulation. They are mounted vertically directly on the wall.
The fastening of the bars to the wall is done with nails, screws or other fastening systems, it depends on the texture of the wall. Do not forget that when measuring a cell for insulation, you must make it 1-2 cm smaller.
The next step is to attach the horizontal frame or crate of the second layer. Protective plates are mounted on it, and, accordingly, the cells are marked to the required size.

This is a standard mounting system, but sometimes it is simplified. For example, they do not make a vertical layer, and the insulation is placed immediately in horizontally located bars. Then, with the help of rails, a gap is made, and protective plates are attached. This saves a lot of lumber.

Fastening the horizontal battens to the wall

metal grate

If you know how to work with a metal profile, then you can make a frame out of it yourself. Look at the drawing. It shows a horizontal-vertical design of the crate for hanging panels. With the help of brackets, a horizontal profile is attached. The length of the bracket matches the height of the insulation. The main vertical profile has a gap into which the panel is inserted and fastened.

Double crate made of metal profile

Like wood, a metal crate can only be horizontal, but then intermediate rails will be required when installing the panels.

Single metal grill

In the next photo you see a detailed scheme for assembling a metal crate for a hinged facade

Frame Assembly Scheme

The choice of facade insulation

For ventilated facades, the main principle is the existence of an air gap between the insulation and the facing material. Air circulates freely from top to bottom and destroys the fragile structure of the insulating material. In connection with this feature, serious requirements are imposed on the quality of insulation for hinged facade structures. If you put low-quality material, then in a year the whole system will cease to function as it should. You will have to disassemble and change the material. When selecting, rely on the main requirement - density. Heavy and dense material is less prone to weathering and will last longer. Such a heater is mineral wool or its analogues.

It comes in various thicknesses. Available in slabs, rolls or soft briquettes. This is an exceptionally water-repellent material, and therefore the walls will be thoroughly protected from moisture. Mineral wool does not burn. With excellent thermal protection, it is a breathable insulation.

If you decide to make double insulation, then use fiberglass for the first layer.

Some builders use extruded polystyrene foam. This is not entirely true. Polystyrene is a light combustible material, which will create certain difficulties in operation.

Warming with mineral wool

Ventilated facade fixing system

We have already studied the designs of the crates, now it is necessary to summarize and consider the entire fastening system from start to finish. First of all, it is necessary to calculate the entire structure. These are thermophysical and calculations. They are necessary to determine the thickness and strength of the entire structure. For the calculation, special programs are used, which are compiled by manufacturers of materials. There are such programs in large construction companies. It is difficult to do this on your own, since the programs include the basic requirements of Russian standards on this issue.

After calculating the main indicators and the amount of material required, you can proceed to fastening. The main thing is to follow the sequence and not forget anything:

Fastening of the vertical crate.
Laying insulation, which is mounted on the wall using dish-shaped dowels or dish-shaped nails, depending on the material of the wall.
Installation of a horizontal crate.
Laying of a wind-shelter film.
Strengthening decorative protective plates.

Cassette mount

Now let's look at the ways of attaching protective panels in a little more detail. There are only three main ways of mounting plates on the facade:

Cassette.
Hidden.
Visible.

Indoor and visible mounting methods

The first is characterized by special structures made of metal profiles, where the cassette type of the facing panel is inserted through the “sled”.

The hidden method can be carried out using internal anchor devices. The visible mounting option is the most popular. Fastening facade plates with clamps is easier for a non-professional.

A simplified system for attaching the facade to a metal profile looks like this. We use U-shaped hangers and the CD 60 profile. The figure clearly shows that the insulation and the hanger have the same height, and facade plates are mounted on the CD 60.

You can make a mixed type of frame: metal hangers, and a wooden profile. Plates are fastened in a hidden or visible way.

Mounting with a metal frame

Repair of ventilated facades

Repair work is required if:

There are mechanical damage to the facade. This can happen under the influence of natural or external factors. Most often, replacement tiles require cladding. Much less often - a frame.
There is a freezing or leakage of the wall. Maybe the wall was blowing. This indicates a violation of the integrity of the panels or a decrease in the protective properties of the insulation.
If there is a need to replace the old lining with a better and more aesthetic one.

In all cases, we begin with an inspection and assessment of the scope of work. Then we buy the material and proceed to the gradual replacement of the damaged layer of the facade. But it is better to involve specialized teams. Professionals will do everything much better, and the repair will last for a longer period.

Video: Facade repair

A ventilated facade is the most modern and affordable system for protecting housing from external influences, which retains heat and pleases with its aesthetics and comfort.

Not so long ago, nothing was known about hinged ventilated facade systems, but today these structures are increasingly used in the construction of new buildings and the decoration of external walls of buildings that have already served their purpose. Technologies for ventilated facades are widely used by both large construction companies and private developers.

Figure 1. Scheme of heat exchange of a wall with a ventilated facade.

The thing is that modern finishing methods can improve the efficiency of energy saving in a building, and when building its walls, lighter and cheaper material can already be used. Thanks to the systems of hinged ventilated facades, old houses become not only warmer, but also much more attractive in appearance. It should be added that by facing facades it is possible to achieve a unified architectural style of entire quarters.

Advantages of ventilated facade systems

Figure 2. The device of a ventilated facade.

But not only with its design and heat-saving characteristics, the construction of a ventilated facade attracts builders, because one of its main functions is to protect the house from the effects of the external environment. Previously, other building materials also coped with a similar task, but their disadvantage was the same “effective protection” against the removal of condensate from the premises. Perhaps the most obvious example of an unsuccessful finish of external walls is the lining of wooden or clay buildings with air-tight materials (roofing material or metal sheets), which was used quite often in past years.

Protecting the house from moisture from the outside, the owners of the houses doomed the walls to accelerated destruction due to condensate, which could not be discharged through them from the inside. Systems of ventilated facades are just arranged in such a way as to provide air circulation between them and the load-bearing wall, which is necessary for the effective removal of internal moisture and creating an additional air cushion to keep the heat in the house. The principle of operation of a ventilated facade is clearly shown in the figure.

Figure 3. Suspension design for a ventilated facade.

"Breathing" the wall provides a gap between it or the insulation and the facing material. Without this gap, the removal of vapors would be difficult, since many modern linings (made of PVC or metal, for example) cannot pass air. The width of the gap depends on the material of the cladding and external walls, the performance of the building, and climatic conditions. The gap width range is 20-120mm. All of the above factors also affect the overall thickness of the "pie" of the ventilated facade.

Depending on climatic conditions, on how thick the walls are and what material they are made of, the necessary heat insulator is selected. Its thickness is 50-150 mm. To the thickness of the "pie" you need to add the transverse dimensions of the crate and cladding panels.

Disadvantages of timber framing

It is worth talking in more detail about the crate itself. For laying insulation and arranging a ventilated facade, 2 types of material are used - wooden beams and a metal profile. True, the use of wood bars is limited by certain conditions. So, they should not be used when lining plinths (high humidity), creating a system with a heater thicker than 50 mm (unjustified cash costs for timber, the overall severity of the structure). In addition, when choosing wood for the crate, you need to pay attention to how dry it is. Insufficiently dried beams can subsequently cause deformation of the finishing layer of the ventilated facade. On the other hand, the lathing of the bars is ideal for ventilated facades in wooden houses.

How does a ventilated "pie" work?

Now it's time to find out what the device of a ventilated facade is. On this fig. 1 shows the design without insulation.

Everything is quite simple here: panels are hung on a profile or bars attached to an external wall. The step of the crate should not exceed 600 mm. Such cladding of buildings suggests that they do not require additional insulation, and its entire role is reduced to the external design of the building and its protection from external influences. To such a finish, one could add the need to hang a vapor-permeable membrane on the wall under the frame - a film that will become an additional obstacle to external moisture, but will freely remove internal vapors.

Much more layered is the design of the ventilated facade, where the walls were pre-insulated. On fig. 2 shows the device of this "pie".

A crate is attached to the wall for laying a heat insulator (rolled or sheet mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, etc.). For better waterproofing, it is necessary to hang a vapor-permeable film with the smooth side outward even before installing the first layer of profiles. In addition, the membrane sheets on the surface are joined in a horizontal overlap (the edge of the upper strip overlaps the edge of the lower one). After the insulator is laid, a membrane is hung on it, which is attached to the crate with self-tapping screws or a stapler.

Additionally, dish-shaped dowels are driven into the wall through the film, which will securely fix the heat insulator to the surface. A water-repellent composition is applied to their hats, and the fastenings of the membrane to the profile are closed with adhesive tape or foil tape. After that, a second layer of the crate is installed, the thickness of which will provide a gap for air circulation, and facing panels are already attached to it.

Scheme of the plinth of a ventilated facade with various attachment points.

In general, the construction of a ventilated facade structure is not particularly difficult. But in order for the house not to look rickety after finishing, and the heat insulator to be securely fixed to the wall and, therefore, to perform its functions properly, one must not brush aside the recommendations, which at first may seem insignificant. Any work begins with a preparatory stage. Preparing for the installation of a ventilated facade, you need:

clean the walls from dust, dirt, paint, crumbling fragments of plaster and parts protruding from the surface;
door and window openings are freed from ebbs, slopes of platbands;
depressions and cracks on the surface are sealed with mortar;
the wall is treated with a primer;
the crate is installed according to the level and plumb to ensure an ideal plane (it is better to create a system of sags stretched along the perimeter of the wall through steel bars of threads driven into its corners and connected by transverse cords).

Remember!

If the insulation will be made with mineral wool, then the distance between the guide profiles should be slightly less than the width of the insulation sheet.
Before laying the insulator, level the starting bar, which should correspond to its thickness.
Start warming in those places where the use of whole pieces of insulation is required, lay the fragments last.
Avoid gaps between adjacent sheets of insulation.
The glue that will hold the insulation on the surface will not be able to cope with the task on its own, so additionally fasten the insulation with dish-shaped dowels (the method of fastening is described above).

Not every wall can boast of a perfect vertical or even surface. Based on this, it is often not worth wasting cubic meters of solution to level it, because the costs will turn out to be “space”. After rough preparation of the wall, a vertical plane can be built from the profile using U-shaped fasteners. This is where the sling system comes in handy. Focusing on the threads, attach a bar or profile to the U-suspension. You can use the factory hanger (fig. 3) or make it yourself.

The main thing is to ensure its reliable fastening to the wall with dowel-nails. The step between the U-shaped elements should not exceed 400 mm.

Everything is not as difficult as it seems

In addition to the difficulties, this process has its own pleasant “little things”:

the second crate does not require the construction of a plane if the first one was set correctly;
work on creating a ventilated facade system can be done by one person.

After the final finishing, your home will not only be better kept warm during the cold season, but also protected from heat during the hot season.

You will feel the benefits of a ventilated facade almost immediately, as soon as you approach the electricity or gas meters to take readings for payment.

To maintain the desired temperature in the house, the heating system or air conditioning system can already work with less intensity.

A hinged ventilated facade is a complex engineering system, the proper quality of which can be realized only if the technology of construction and installation works is strictly followed. As practice shows, about 80% of all initial damage on new buildings occurs during the first five years of operation, and one of the reasons for this is errors made during the installation of a ventilated facade. In addition, installation errors can lead to incorrect functioning and, as a result, a significant reduction in the service life of the system. Therefore, when installing a ventilation facade, it is necessary to carefully observe the installation technology and carry out step-by-step quality control.

How to make a ventilated facade?

Let's analyze step by step the technology of mounting the structure of a hinged ventilated facade. Before installation, it is necessary to complete a project or at least a working layout of the cladding and subsystem according to the facades, calculate the ventilated facade according to the loads and prepare the WEP. This will minimize material consumption and solve many problems before they occur.

We analyzed how to use the program for calculating facade systems.

1) Preparatory work

Before proceeding directly to the installation of a ventilated facade at the facility, it is necessary to carry out organizational and preparatory measures in accordance with SNiP 3.01.01-85 "Organization of construction production". This includes marking the boundary of a zone dangerous for finding people, preparing and inspecting facade lifts, installing inventory buildings at the construction site: for storing materials and a workshop for preparing structures for installation. The width of the danger zone must be at least 3 m from the wall of the building. Installation should be carried out in accordance with SNiP 3.03.01-87 "Bearing and enclosing structures", in compliance with safety regulations according to SNiP III-4-80. It is not allowed to perform work on the installation of a ventilated facade in conditions of ice, fog, which excludes visibility within the front of work, thunderstorms and wind at a speed of 15 m/s and temperatures below -20ºС.

2) Marking the mounting points of the brackets

Before starting the main installation work, the installation points of the bearing and support brackets on the wall of the building are marked. The marking is carried out in accordance with the technical documentation for the project for the installation of a hinged facade with an air gap.

At the initial stage, the beacon lines for marking the facade are determined - the lower horizontal line of the installation points of the brackets and the two vertical lines extreme along the facade of the building.

The extreme points of the horizontal line are determined using a level and marked with indelible paint. At the two extreme points, using a laser level and a tape measure, all intermediate points for installing the brackets are determined and marked with paint.

With the help of plumb lines lowered from the parapet of the building, vertical lines are determined at the extreme points of the horizontal line.

Using facade lifts, mark with indelible paint the installation points of the bearing and support brackets on the extreme vertical lines.

3) Mounting brackets

Installation of bearing brackets of the ventilation facade subsystem is carried out in the following sequence:

1) Holes are drilled in the wall with a mechanized tool (perforator). with a drillwith a diameter equal to the diameter of the anchor fastener and a depth of 5 mm more than the length of the dowel. Clear the hole of debris. It is not allowed to install anchor fasteners in the seams of brickwork and at a distance of less than 100 mm from the edge of the brickwork (outer corners, window slopes).

2) Before installation, a paronite gasket is installed under each bracket through the anchor dowel.

3) With the help of anchor dowels, the bearing brackets of the ventilated facade are installed with a rotary tool (screwdriver).

4) Installation of thermal insulation and wind protection

The device of a heat-insulating layer and a hydro-windproof film includes:

1) Hanging on the wall through the slots for the brackets of the insulation boards;

2) Hanging the panels of the wind and hydroprotective membrane with an overlap of 100 mm and their temporary fastening;

3) Drilling through the insulation boards and the wind and hydroprotective film of holes in the wall for dish-shaped dowels in full according to the project and installing the dowels.

The thickness and type of plates are determined based on the heat engineering calculation, which can be found in the corresponding blog article.

The distance from the dowels to the edges of the insulation board must be at least 50 mm.

The installation of insulation boards starts from the bottom row, which are installed on the starting profile or base, then the installation is carried out from the bottom up.

The plates are hung in a checkerboard pattern horizontally next to each other in such a way that there are no through gaps between the plates. Permissible size of an unfilled seam - 2 mm. Additional heat-insulating plates must be securely fixed to the wall surface. Before installing additional thermal insulation boards, they must be cut with a hand tool. Breaking the insulation boards is not allowed.

With two-layer insulation, the slabs of the inner layer are fixed to the wall with dish-shaped dowels in an amount of at least 2 pieces per slab. The heat-insulating plates of the outer layer are installed with the joints offset vertically and horizontally. The fastening of the outer layer is carried out similarly to the single-layer version of the insulation.

5) Installation of guides

Fastening to the adjusting brackets of the vertical guide profiles includes:

Installation of profiles in the grooves of the regulating bearing and support brackets.

Fixing profiles with rivets to the bearing brackets. In the supporting adjusting brackets, the profile is installed freely, which ensures its free vertical movement to compensate for temperature deformations . Use a level to set the profile to be mounted in a vertical position and fix it on the brackets. Installation of rivets is carried out in the regular holes of the brackets, if any. Through standard holes in the brackets, drill holes for rivets in the vertical profile. The edge of the hole must be at least 10 mm from the edge of the profile. Insert the rivet into the hole and riveting with the special blind rivet tool. The longitudinal axis of the rivet must be perpendicular to the surfaces to be fastened. Rivet twisting is not allowed.

In the vertical joints of two successive profiles, to compensate for thermal deformations, it is recommended to maintain a gap of 8 to 10 mm.

7) Facing installation

Installation technology of a ventilated porcelain stoneware facade

The installation of porcelain tiles is carried out in the following sequence:

1) Marking the holes on the guides for fastening the clamps according to the drawings of the working documentation.

2) Drilling holes in the guides of the ventilated facade using a mechanized tool - an electric drill. The hole should be 0.2 mm larger than the rivet diameter.

3) Installation of clamps in the design position and fastening to the frame through a drilled hole with rivets specified in the project. At the same time, facing porcelain tiles are installed. Self-tapping screws are only used as a mounting element.

Installation technology of ventilated facades from metal cassettes

Mounting of metal cassettes takes place depending on the mounting of the cassettes - these are cassettes with a lock and cassettes without a lock. Installation begins from the starting strips, fixed with self-tapping screws or rivets at a horizontal level. Installation is carried out from the bottom up, from left to right. Before installing the cassette, a self-adhesive double-sided tape is glued to the lock on the attachment point - this is necessary for a tighter connection. Cassettes are fastened with self-tapping screws or rivets to vertical rails. Each subsequent cassette is installed on the previous one in the lock.

The cassettes must be tightly attached to the supporting substructure without distortions, with the prescribed gaps, and their surface must not be damaged, dented, or scratched. Cassettes without a lock are fastened with self-tapping screws or rivets.

This article will consider a ventilated facade. The technology of its device, the main design schemes. We will analyze the important points and main components of the ventilated facade.

Ventilated facade system, main design points

Figure 1 below shows the general layout of a ventilated façade.

Let's analyze what structural moments are typical for a wall with a ventilated facade. This must be understood in order to correctly carry out the wall and its outer part (facade). If the wall is a wall with a ventilated façade, then it must be properly constructed accordingly. If the wall is a wall without a ventilated facade, then it must also be structurally correct, so you need to understand the difference. We will talk about two types of ventilated facade:

without insulation, shown in Figure 2;
with insulation, shown in Figure 3.

A wall can be considered as a wall with a ventilated facade without insulation (Figure 2) if:

The wall is made of vapor-permeable materials (with vapor permeability not lower than 0.05 mg/(m*h*Pa)).
There is a ventilation gap between the wall and the cladding (3-4 cm).

A wall can be considered as a wall with an insulated ventilated facade (also known as a ventilated facade with insulation, Figure 3) if:

there is a vapor-permeable insulation in the wall outside (with a vapor permeability of at least 0.1-0.3 mg / (m * h * Pa));
this insulation is closed with a superdiffusion membrane (with a vapor permeability of 800 g / m 2 per day and above);
after the superdiffusion membrane, a ventilation gap was made, 4-6 cm.

For clarity, I will indicate the signs of a wall, in which the wall, although it resembles a ventilated facade, is NOT one. So if:

the wall is insulated from the inside and there is a gap between the insulation and the inner lining;
the wall is insulated from the outside with a vapor-tight insulation (with a vapor permeability lower than that of cotton wool, below 0.1 mg / (m * h * Pa));
the wall is insulated from the outside with a vapor-permeable insulation, and the insulation is covered with a material with a vapor permeability below 800 g / m 2 per day (these materials can be a vapor barrier film, a waterproofing film and a low-quality superdiffusion membrane);
the wall is insulated from the outside with a vapor-permeable insulation, the insulation is closed with a superdiffusion membrane, but there is no ventilation gap of 3-4 cm between the membrane and the cladding;

then the wall is not a wall with a ventilated facade by its design, and, accordingly, should be arranged as a completely different design.

The main layers of the ventilated facade (non-insulated and insulated)

Whether a ventilated façade is insulated or not will depend on its design (number of layers, lathing design, etc.). On a ventilated facade without insulation, let's analyze the main layers, and their features. On a ventilated facade with insulation, we will analyze the features, varieties of such a facade and the main layers. The device (how to perform) both types of ventilated facade will be discussed in a separate article.

The main layers of a ventilated facade without insulation:

Bearing wall made of wall materials.
Crate.
Ventilation gap.
Facing.

The load-bearing wall, ventilation gap and cladding for a ventilated facade without insulation are the same as for an insulated ventilated facade, you can read about them in the next paragraph. The crate for a ventilated facade without insulation will differ from a ventilated facade with insulation, and the design and arrangement of the crate will be described in detail in a separate article.

We found out above that we will consider a wall with an insulated ventilated facade only a wall insulated from the outside with a vapor-permeable insulation with a superdiffusion membrane over the insulation and a ventilation gap. Let us consider in more detail the components of an insulated ventilated facade. An insulated ventilated facade can be "with a wall" and "without a wall" (it is also a frame). A ventilated facade "with a wall" is shown in Figures 2 and 3. In Figure 2 - a non-insulated ventilated facade "with a wall", in Figure 3 - an insulated ventilated facade "with a wall". A ventilated facade "without a wall" (frame) will be considered in Figure 5.

That is, if the insulated ventilated facade is “with a wall”, then the insulation, membrane and cladding are attached to the load-bearing wall from wall materials. If the insulated ventilated facade is “without a wall”, it is also a frame one, then the insulation layer is the wall, and there is no load-bearing wall made of wall materials in the structure. The question of the device of the frame wall is disclosed in detail in the article. In this article, we will not consider a frame wall, but will consider only the design of an insulated ventilated facade “with a wall”, when all layers are attached to a load-bearing wall made of wall materials. Such a design can be provided initially, during the construction of the house, or it can be the result of facade reconstruction (if the finished load-bearing wall of wall materials is insulated or lined already during the operation of the house). From whether the ventilated facade was made immediately during construction or is the result of reconstruction, the design and rules for its construction do not change. Let's move on to the main layers of an insulated ventilated facade, consider how each layer affects the structure as a whole and highlight the points that are important for the correct design. First, I will list the main layers of an insulated ventilated facade, in the order in which they will be considered.

Bearing wall.
Crate.
Insulation.
superdiffusion membrane.
Ventilation gap (vent gap).
Sheathing (facing) of the facade.

Bearing wall

Such a wall can be made:

brick,
from blocks (any, aerated concrete, expanded clay concrete, foam concrete, shell rock, cinder block, etc.),
from a wooden beam or log, or from a board;
from adobe,
from stone.

The following parameters of the ventilated facade will depend on what the load-bearing wall is made of:

Insulation thickness. The “warmer” (the lower the thermal conductivity) of the wall material, the less thickness of additional thermal insulation will be needed.
Type of crate (wood or metal) and fasteners of the crate (dowels, self-tapping screws, and which ones, more on this later, in the paragraph about the crate).
The design of the crate will depend on how even the load-bearing wall is (how it will be attached to the wall, directly or through a U-shaped suspension, more on that later in the paragraph about the crate).

Ventilated façade sheathing

I will call the crate a system of elements with which a heater and a membrane are fixed to the wall. The ventilated facade trim is also attached to the crate.

The figures above show that the “first” and “second” battens are involved in the design of the ventilated facade. This is the conventional designation of fasteners adopted in this article, Figure 5. The first crate I call the crate that is attached to the wall (regardless of its material, design). I call the second crate the fasteners that are attached to the first crate, and to which the lining is attached (again, the name "second" does not depend on the material and design of the elements).

First crate may be:

from wooden blocks,
from U-shaped suspensions,
from a self-made fastener (cut from the CD 60 profile).

Second crate may be:

from a wooden block;
from profile CD 60.

The choice of the design of the crate (both the first and the second) will depend on the following parameters:

Is the wall insulated or not?
If the wall is insulated, then what is the thickness of the insulation (100 or 50 mm);
The wall is even, or there are irregularities (more than 1 cm per 1 m2).

How the first and second crates are selected in each case of the three above, I will describe in the article.

Sheath material. First of all, the material of the crate (wood or metal) is dictated by the chosen design of the crate (and the design depends on the three parameters given above). Once a design has been selected, the availability of that material must be taken into account to determine the material. It depends on the region of construction. In some regions it is easy to buy a normal dried bar for a crate, while in others it is easier to put metal profiles. It should also be borne in mind that when buying a non-dried bar, you need to fix it immediately so that it dries already in a fixed position, otherwise it will lead.

Note. When determining the material of the second crate, it is desirable to take into account such a moment. If the cladding is made of something wooden (for example, cladding from OSB or a blockhouse), then it is better to make the second crate from wood. This is not a mandatory requirement, it's just better (the second crate and cladding with the same material are easier to attach to each other and work better.

Insulation for a ventilated facade

For a ventilated facade, a heater with the following parameters is needed:

with a vapor permeability of 0.1-0.3 mg / (m * h * Pa) and above;
with a certain density. For mineral wool 30-50 kg/m 2 . For fiberglass wool - 20 kg / m 2 and above;
the insulation must be in slabs (not rolled).

The thickness of the insulation is determined by calculation and depends on the material of the wall and the construction area. The best choice for insulation is mineral wool or fiberglass wool. These heaters are used in 99% of cases.

Note. The thermal insulation performance of a ventilated facade is affected by those materials (and their thicknesses) that are located BEFORE the ventilation gap (from the inside). Any insulation, of any thickness, located after ventilation gap, for thermal insulation performance does not affect. For example, if OSB is located after the ventilation gap, then there were cases when builders advised to arrange polystyrene or XPS on top of the OSB, and plaster that it would be warmer. This is not true, by installing insulation after the ventilation gap, the facade cannot be additionally insulated. An example of such a design (with useless insulation after the ventilation gap) is shown in Figure 6.

Super diffusion membrane

As mentioned above, the membrane should be with a vapor permeability of 800 g / m 2 per day and above. The overlap of the membrane is 10-15 cm (both horizontally and vertically). Membrane joints can be fixed with a construction stapler; it is not necessary to glue them.

ventilation gap

The gap size is 4-6 cm. This gap can be performed:

1. Due to the additional crate (in the case of a wooden crate).

2. Due to the U-shaped profile (in a design with a crate made of a metal profile).

Figure 8 shows that the ventilation gap is formed due to the length of the U-shaped suspension, on which wool is put on, as well as due to the second crate from the CD 60 profile. This is the case when both the first and second crates are metal. Figure 9 below shows how the ventilation gap is formed when the first crate is metal and the second is wooden.

3. Due to the length of the self-made fastener metal element (in the design, when the first crate is a self-made fastener cut from the CD 60 profile). The second crate in this case can be from a metal profile (shown in Figure 10, below) and can be from a wooden block (shown in Figure 11, below).

You can read more about how exactly the ventilation gap is organized for various batten designs in the article. The design and implementation of a self-made fastener from a cut CD 60 profile will be discussed there.

Facing

The type of cladding depends on:

material of the second crate,
crate step (first and second),
details of fastening the cladding to the second crate.

How exactly it depends, we will analyze in the same paragraph, below.

Basic cladding options:

Siding (PVC).
A variety of plates: magnesite, glass-magnesium (LSU), OSB.
Block house.

Now about how exactly the material, step and details of fastening the crate depend on the type of cladding.

If the cladding is made of something wooden (for example, cladding from OSB, wall paneling, or blockhouse), then it is better to make the second crate from wood. It's not a requirement, it's just better that way.
The step of the crate depends on the cladding, on its material and size. I will give a crate step for the main cladding materials. These are indicative, recommended values, since for an accurate determination it is necessary to consider each case separately. So:
The above dimensions are general guidelines. For greater certainty, before mounting, it is advisable to check empirically how suitable the pre-selected pitch is. To do this, fill the bars with the selected step on the wall of the house or even on the wall of any outbuilding and fix 1-2 elements of the facing material. Try to lean on. It happens that the step can be increased (and at the same time save materials and installation time) or the step needs to be reduced, since the cladding sags.
The type of cladding depends on how it will be attached to the crate.
To the wooden crate:

Siding. Can be fixed with a professional (not simple) stapler. This is a pneumatic stapler with large staples, it is also used in the manufacture of furniture.

OSB, LSU. With a sheet thickness of up to 12 mm - self-tapping screws 25 mm, with a sheet thickness of more than 12 m - self-tapping screws 35 mm.

Block house. With a blockhouse thickness of 2 to 2.5 cm - a thick self-tapping screw. With a blockhouse thickness of 1.6 to 2 cm - a thin self-tapping screw with a narrow sunk head or a sunken nail with a thin head. Self-tapping screws are yellow or galvanized, black is not recommended, as they rust. Fastening can be carried out "on the spike" so that the screws are not visible, or you can "on the forehead", then the screws will be visible. And since the screws are visible, it is better to fasten them along the lace (we pull the lace along the line of the location of the screws and then we fasten the screws strictly along the line of the lace).

For metal profile:

Siding. Self-tapping screws 9 mm long (popularly called "flea") with a drill at the end.

OSB, LSU. An ordinary self-tapping screw (without a drill at the end) 25 or 35 mm long, better for metal, but it is also possible for wood.

Block house. Self-tapping screw for wood 25 or 35 mm.

To a homemade fastener:

A beam (section 40x30, 40x20) or a metal profile is inserted into this element at the end, as can be seen in Figures 10 and 11 above. If the profile, then it (the profile) is attached to the fastener with a self-tapping screw with a drill (flea) 9 mm long. If a wooden block, then it (the block) is attached to the fastener with a wood self-tapping screw 25 mm long. And already to the cladding, the profile or bar is attached as described above, in the paragraphs "to the metal profile" and to the "wooden crate".

Note. I deliberately do not give in this article the step of fastening the cladding to the second crate (through what distance the self-tapping screws are attached). The fact is that the value of this step varies greatly depending on the material of the cladding. And for each type (for OSB, siding, etc.), you can make a separate article with installation details.

On the vapor permeability of a wall with a ventilated facade

I would like to analyze this point in more detail, since there are many different misconceptions about this. In the very name "ventilated facade", some "promise of vapor permeability" is hidden ("vent" means ventilated, which means it breathes, etc.). Let's see if that's the case. This is important to understand, since the required ventilation power depends on which walls (facade) in the house. For vapor-permeable walls, this power is less, for vapor-tight walls it is more (on average by 15-20%, it must be determined by calculation for each situation). So, a wall with a ventilated facade is vapor-permeable if all layers of this wall are vapor-permeable. That is, if the wall contains no materials with vapor permeability lower than the values \u200b\u200bgiven by me, I repeat: lower than 0.1-0.3 mg / (m * h * Pa) for insulation and vapor permeability not lower than 0.05 mg / (m *h*Pa) for the remaining layers of the wall. For example, a wall with such a design (from the inside to the outside) drywall, brick, insulation, superdiffusion membrane, ventilation gap, cladding. This is a vapor permeable wall, shown in Figure 15.

Figure 16. Example of a vapor barrier wall with a ventilated façade

Thus, the presence of a vapor barrier material inside the wall or within the thickness of the wall can make a wall with a ventilated facade vapor permeable (if there is no vapor barrier material) and vapor barrier (if such material is present). The very meaning of the ventilated facade does not change. In short, the meaning of a ventilated facade is to ventilate the material in which the dew point is located. This material can be a wall (in the case of a non-insulated ventilated facade), or it can be a heater (in the case of an insulated ventilated facade).

Note: In this article, we do not touch on the structure of the frame wall, which, most often, is a ventilated facade. But it should be noted that in the frame wall, the presence of vapor barrier is mandatory, which means that properly executed walls of the frame house are vapor-tight. You can read more about the walls of a frame house in the article.

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