When I was after perestroika, the masses were worried about the question of how to disassemble the electric motor. They paid little, many, especially military units with rich property, sinned: they helped the state dispose of unnecessary mechanisms for free. First - transformers, electric motors. The cables got caught. It was easier to deal with copper ones - they simply burned the insulation, resin, and gutted them. Aluminum was abandoned: cheaper, more problems, lower melting point. Metal loses strength - value decreases.

Electric motors of collector and asynchronous type

Instead of disassembling the electric motor for copper for delivery to the nearest point, we suggest studying the design (we'll show you how to break it). Problems arise when gutting the stator, rotor. The coils of an electric motor are assembled according to a similar principle - they are recessed into a pre-insulated grotto, sometimes they are hammered on top with a wedge. Thanks to the special shape of the hole, the structure is firmly held in place. Most people do not bother with the windings of electric motors: the sidewalls are cut off with a grinder, the wiring is knocked out of its place. See on YouTube. The videos discuss the repair of electric motors regarding the rewinding of coils.

The photo shows two typical household electric motors:

Collector Motor U8330

The variant on the left is shown and taken from a Philips food processor. We apologize in advance for refusing to disassemble to the end, you need to remove the ring that goes deep into the plastic gear. Simply dangerous, the electric motor costs 2,000 rubles. We found it irrational to experiment in this way. The photo shows: the shaft is removed after disassembling the frame (held by two long bolts). The brushes are uncomfortable (the motor is commutator), there is a lot of copper here. The stator and rotor are provided with windings. Moreover, in the latter case, there are no wedges. Take a closer look, you can see: on the ends of the winding of the rotor (collector) of the electric motor are stuck with glue. Dissolve, remove in a different way - it is possible to dismantle. On the stator, the poles are kept cunningly: a coil of copper is bent at the periphery. It is a common thing for engines when there is practically nothing to hold the fixed coils.

Asynchronous type motor

As understood, the second option is an electric motor of an asynchronous type. Removed from household hood. Approximately so the elementary models are arranged. The electric motor is distinguished by a massive magnetic circuit formed by two parts: internal, external. Due to the mass, the exhaust fan does not work well. When installed under the weight of the electric motor, it gradually bends downwards. The blades begin to cling to the body, the device rumbles like a tank, grinds, makes other sounds. But disassembling an asynchronous electric motor is a sweet deal. It is necessary to knock out the inner part of the magnetic circuit from the outer one, insulators, stator coils (for rewinding) will come out in parallel. As for the rotor of the electric motor, it is made according to a short-circuited circuit; it is unlikely that it will be possible to hand over the silumin drum for a favorable price. If the point accepts, they will most likely require to remove the internal copper wires (indicated by oblique strokes on the surface). You will have to do it with the help of a chisel, hammer, grinder. We wish you good luck in your stubborn quest to earn an extra 30 rubles, breaking the electric motor at the cost of such efforts.

To wind the coils of an electric motor, copper wire with varnish insulation is used. Apparently, you will have to use a solvent when removing the layer. A large mass of electric motor wires corresponds to a significant weight of varnish, which will cause objections from the huckster. For the most part, insulation (promprovod.oml.ru) is based on synthetic varnishes, for example, vinyl flex (VL 931). In terms of resistance to water, organic solvents, the material used in the manufacture of electric motors exceeds the capabilities of metalvin (VL 941). Made on the basis of polyvinylformal and phenol-formaldehyde resins, the coating will provide phenomenal durability.

Heat-resistant enamels are formed by the families PE943 (tarephthalic acid, ethylene glycol, glycerin), PE939 (lavsan). To increase impact resistance, stabilize resistance to heat, the compositions are modified with isocyanurate. Coatings with heat resistance reach classes F (155 C), H (180 C). Polyetherimide varnishes are stronger in this regard than polyester ones. The solvent is cresol in combination with coal solvent or xinol.

motor stator

Some of the lacquer insulation is made up of natural-based substances (linseed oil). To improve the quality of the mixture, they are supplemented with synthetic resins, calcium resinate, obtained from rosin. Kerosene serves as a solvent for varnishes. The good news is that varnishes have poor solvent resistance. In industry, thin copper wire is cleaned with formic acid at a temperature of 80 degrees. Remember: the substance is extremely dangerous. Getting on the skin, inside through the respiratory organs causes a variety of damage, most of which is irreversible. It is required to use a hood, it is better to work outdoors.

In some cases, firing is used, but not for thin wire. It will burn, there will be no trace. For more details, you need to look at the type of varnish, the brand of wire will help you find out. For example, some varieties dissolve with ordinary alcohol. Characteristic of shellac. We believe that the technique should be simple, as safe as possible - hardly anyone wants to pay for the opportunity to donate metal with health and financial well-being.

Dismantle the electric motor for repair

They highlighted aspects characteristic of a poor country: how to disassemble an electric motor for scrap. Let's add here: the magnetic circuit is formed by plates of good electrical steel, which can be used in the manufacture of transformers. Let's see how to repair an electric motor. We will describe the components, since not always the burnt windings will be the cause of the failure of the product.

Suppose one stator winding of an electric motor has broken. Wind up: the wire is laid out by the store, the footage is small. Better than paying a couple thousand to buy a new electric food processor motor. It's funny, the wire is sold ... by cubic meters, kilograms. Traders, roughly speaking, fill people's heads with unnecessary worries. How to measure the winding of an electric motor with cubic meters? Draw your own conclusions: sometimes you look at the dealer, the language is full of obscenities. Writers are more pleased: the price for the wire of the windings of an electric motor must be requested.

A coil cannot be expensive: 550 rubles are asked for 1 kg of copper. Stop winding the stator (both poles) around half a dozen food processor motors. Therefore, the economic effect is obvious, it is necessary to disassemble the motor winding in order to measure the parameters. Let's get started.

• You will quickly notice that although most electric motors require 230 volts to run, there are actually many more leads than are required.

Usually, thermal relays and thermal fuses are placed in the winding. Protect against overheating. We already wrote: each varnish insulation has a limit, so thermal fuses are made in accordance with the requirements. Typical values ​​are 135 - 145 degrees Celsius. On an asynchronous motor we see two black wires: between the turns, the magnetic circuit is a protective element designed to withstand a temperature of 145 degrees.

In this case, the contact is quite poor. There are models of electric motors, where the thermal relay is tightly screwed to the plates, or wrapped in insulation between the turns of the windings. Start checking with protective elements. Sometimes their own power connector terminals lead there, often the thermal fuse is simply connected in series with the winding. When triggered, a gap will be recorded by the tester. Please note: it is not always possible to measure resistance through the terminals. It is much better to ring the motors with an active indicator screwdriver.

• The composition of many household engines is supplemented with sensors for measuring the speed of rotation of the shaft. Use the Hall effect, there are other varieties. As soon as they decided to repair the engine, the speed meters, most likely, are not of interest.
• If you decide to disassemble the electric motor of the vacuum cleaner, you will immediately notice: near the collector, “drops” (rounded) are closed on the body.

No breakage even if blackened by high temperature. Drop-shaped varistors help protect the brushes against power surges. With a sharp increase in potential, the resistance of the elements drops, the spark is extinguished by the thickness of the steel casing of the engine. The motor on the left (see photo) is equipped with varistors (there are thermal relays containing a Klixon 3MP series pellet-type sensor). Varistors are difficult to check, they can cause damage in only one case - with a short circuit. Let's check with a tester if this is the case. In a quiet state, without power, the resistance of the varistor is high (often more than 20 MΩ).

• In collector electric motors, brushes are considered a weak point.

Wear brings to a circular fire. It is much easier to disassemble an asynchronous electric motor with a squirrel-cage rotor. The brushes rest on the lamella with springs. When you try to pull the engine manifold out, they will pop out in the direction of the shaft. In power tools, the holders are bolted, covered with covers, it is relatively easy to remove graphite. When it comes to food processors, maintenance of products outside of workshops is not provided by the manufacturer. The holder is held by bent brass antennae. Obviously, we avoid trying too hard to practice flexion-extension, otherwise it is easy to break off the fasteners. It is better to remove the brushes before removing the shaft. It will facilitate the subsequent assembly process, save graphite from destruction.

Debris sticking to the blade of a fan equipped with an asynchronous motor

It is usually not necessary to disassemble the motor armature to replace the brushes. Graphite is considered a consumable material, access to the springs is provided through the body of many power tools (grinders, drills). If necessary, the brushes are ground to the desired size. More often than not, the cause of anxiety for the engine is the lack of lubrication. A quiet hood will start making noise like a tank. A quick disassembly of the electric motor would be a good solution. At the same time, it is desirable to clean the structure of accumulated debris (see photo).

Litol is suitable for lubrication (sold by auto parts stores). We believe that now readers will be able to fearlessly disassemble the rotor of the electric motor, lubricate, clean, and set it up properly. If you decide to disassemble the stator, be careful, the magnetic circuit is easily stratified.

Among the general industrial ones used to account for products and raw materials, commodity, automobile, wagon, trolley, etc. are common. Technological ones are used to weigh products during production in technologically continuous and periodic processes. Laboratory ones are used to determine the moisture content of materials and semi-finished products, to conduct a physicochemical analysis of raw materials, and for other purposes. There are technical, exemplary, analytical and microanalytical.

It can be divided into a number of types depending on the physical phenomena on which the principle of their operation is based. The most common devices are magnetoelectric, electromagnetic, electrodynamic, ferrodynamic and induction systems.

The scheme of the device of the magnetoelectric system is shown in fig. one.

The fixed part consists of a magnet 6 and a magnetic circuit 4 with pole pieces 11 and 15 between which a strictly centered steel cylinder 13 is installed.

The frame is fixed on two axes with cores 10 and 14, resting against thrust bearings 1 and 8. Opposing springs 9 and 17 serve as current leads connecting the frame winding with the electrical circuit and input terminals of the device. Arrow 3 with balance weights 16 and an opposing spring 17 connected to the corrector lever 2 are fixed on the axis 4.

01.04.2019

1. The principle of active radar.
2. Pulse radar. Principle of operation.
3. Basic timing of the operation of a pulsed radar.
4. Types of radar orientation.
5. Formation of a sweep on the PPI radar.
6. The principle of operation of the induction log.
7. Types of absolute lags. Hydroacoustic Doppler log.
8. Flight data recorder. Work description.
9. Purpose and principle of AIS operation.
10.Transmitted and received AIS information.
11. Organization of radio communication in AIS.
12. The composition of the AIS ship equipment.
13. Structural diagram of the ship's AIS.
14. The principle of operation of the GPS SNS.
15. Essence of GPS differential mode.
16.Sources of errors in GNSS.
17. Structural diagram of the GPS receiver.
18. The concept of ECDIS.
19. ENC classification.
20. Appointment and properties of the gyroscope.
21. The principle of operation of the gyrocompass.
22. The principle of operation of a magnetic compass.

Connecting cables- a technological process for obtaining an electrical connection of two cable segments with restoration at the junction of all protective and insulating sheaths of the cable and screen braids.

Before connecting the cables, measure the insulation resistance. For unshielded cables, for ease of measurement, one output of the megohmmeter is connected in turn to each core, and the second to the remaining cores connected to each other. The insulation resistance of each shielded core is measured when the leads are connected to the core and its screen. , obtained as a result of measurements, should not be less than the normalized value established for this brand of cable.

Having measured the insulation resistance, they proceed to the establishment or numbering of the cores, or the directions of the lay, which are indicated by arrows on the temporarily fixed tags (Fig. 1).

Having finished the preparatory work, you can start cutting the cables. The geometry of the cutting of the connections of the ends of the cables is modified in order to ensure the convenience of restoring the insulation of the cores and the sheath, and for multi-core cables, also to obtain acceptable dimensions for the junction of the cables.

METHODOLOGICAL AID FOR PRACTICAL WORK: "OPERATION OF SPP COOLING SYSTEMS"

BY DISCIPLINE: " OPERATION OF POWER PLANTS AND SAFE WATCHING IN THE ENGINE ROOM»

COOLING SYSTEM OPERATION

Purpose of the cooling system:

• heat removal from the main engine;
• heat removal from auxiliary equipment;
• heat supply to the Shelter and other equipment (GD before start-up, VDG maintained in "hot" reserve, etc.);
• receiving and filtering outboard water;
• blowing out kingston boxes in summer from clogging with jellyfish, algae, mud, in winter - from ice;
• ensuring the operation of ice boxes, etc.

Repair of a drill can be carried out on your own, the main thing is to know the causes of breakdowns and methods for their “treatment”. Today we will talk about how the drill button connection diagram looks like, we will not ignore other malfunctions, thanks to which you will be the happy owner of a working tool.

If your tool began to work worse, or completely stopped performing its direct duties, it's time to diagnose the malfunctions and try to cope with them. First, we check the wire for damage and the voltage in the outlet, for which you can turn on any other device - a TV or a kettle.

If you are inspecting battery-operated devices, they should be checked using a tester - in this case, the voltage indicated on the case should have a similar value to the battery voltage.

If the voltage is less, you will have to change the batteries to new ones. If the battery is working normally, the power supply is normal, look for problems in the hardware. The most common breakdowns are:

• Problems with the engine;
• Wear of brushes;
• Problems with the button.

Knowing how the button of the electric drill is connected, you can quickly solve the problem. In addition, a problem with the work of the drill can also arise due to the dust content of the tool, because the drill “takes” wood, brick, and other materials. This means that you should take care to clean the device after each use - this is the only way to reduce the risk of malfunctions due to dirty tools. That is why after you have spent, immediately clean the drill.

Unfortunately, a tester will not be enough for you to check the tool’s performance, which is due to the fact that most of the device’s buttons are equipped with smooth speed control, and therefore a regular tester may give you incorrect data. In this case, you will need a special connection diagram for the drill button. Often in tools, one wire is connected to the terminal, and therefore pressing the button at the same time leads to the terminals ringing. In the event that the light comes on, everything is fine with the button, but if you notice a malfunction, it's time to replace the button.

When replacing, keep in mind that the circuit can be both simple and reverse. Due to this, it is necessary to carry out all work on replacing the button exclusively according to the scheme, without adding anything “from oneself”. So, the part must fit in size and match the power of the tool. At the same time, calculating power is a fairly simple task. We use the formula P \u003d U * I (taking into account that the power of the drill is 650 W), I \u003d 2.94 A (650/220), which means that the button should be 2.95 A.

Despite the fact that this process is quite complicated, you can do all the work yourself, observing some important rules. For example, remember that opening the case may cause all parts and loose parts to simply fall out of the case. Naturally, this should be avoided, because then it will be quite difficult to assemble the device together. To do this, you can gently lift the cover, noting the exact location of the parts on paper.

The button is repaired as follows:

1. First, the latches for the casing are picked up, after which it is carefully pulled together;
2. All rusted and darkened terminals are cleaned of soot, for which alcohol or sandpaper can be used;
3. We assemble the tool again, making sure that all the details of the device are in place, and we check the performance of the drill - if nothing has changed, we change the part;
4. We fill the speed regulator with the help of a compound, and therefore, if a part fails, we simply replace it;
5. A frequent breakdown is the erasure of the working layer under the rheostat - it is better not to repair it, just waste your time, it is better to purchase a new one and replace it.

Many are interested in where to get such a scheme? First of all, it should come with the tool when you buy it, but if there is no diagram, or you have lost it, you will have to search the Internet. After all, only with its help you can carry out repairs correctly, without errors. By the way, the speed control button and the reverse control button are located in different places, and therefore they will have to be checked separately.

There are several reasons for the breakdown of the armature or stator of the drill. First of all, this is the illiterate operation of the device. For example, many users simply overload the tool, doing the job without interruption. This leads to the fact that the drill engine does not have time to “rest”. The second reason lies in the poor winding wire, which are often found in cheap models. That is why breakdowns of cheap tools are much more common. Repair in this case must be carried out using a specialized tool. And it will be better if you entrust this work to professional specialists.

However, if it was decided to carry out repairs on your own, you will definitely have a question - how to do everything right? As you already understood, it “suffers” from breakdowns of the armature and stator, and this can be checked by several signs, for example, when the tool suddenly sparks during operation. If there are no “bright” signs, you can use an ohmmeter.

The stator is changed like this:

1. First, carefully disassemble the body of the device;
2. We remove the wires and all internal parts;
3. After finding out the causes of the breakdown, we change the spare part to a new one, close the case again.

But the drill may not work due to banal malfunctions - for example, due to brushes inside the engine. This means that you can’t do without brush repair, while this work is quite simple - you don’t even need to have special knowledge and tools. To do this, we disassemble the device, remove the brush holders from it and change the parts that are broken. By the way, there are models whose body can not be disassembled - they just need to remove special plugs through the installation window, after which we change the brushes.

You can buy these parts at any hardware store, there are also some models that are sold with a set of additional brushes. It is important that you do not wait until the brushes are completely worn out - check them from time to time. And all due to the fact that there is a risk of a gap between the bristles and the collector. As a result, this part will start to overheat and disappear over time - which means you will have to change the whole anchor, which will be much more expensive and more difficult, and it’s not a fact that you can solve this issue yourself.

As you can see, there are a variety of breakdowns, many of which will be subject to you, others will be feasible only for specialists in service centers. And in order to reduce the risk of such breakdowns, you need to take care of your tool, clean it after work, check the condition of parts and brushes in order to replace them with new ones in time. However, if you see that you can’t handle it yourself, take the device to the workshop.

Fans of electronic cigarettes, as well as vaping professionals, sooner or later face the disassembly of their device. Everyone needs this for different reasons: someone will try to upgrade their device, someone will want to know how everything works there, and someone will face the problem of replacing some node.

In any case, you will be faced with parsing electronics. In this article, we will discuss with you how to disassemble the evaporator, and why you may need it.

An electronic cigarette is a device that looks more like an inhaler than a cigarette. The main working unit in it is the evaporator. The evaporator, in technical circles, is called a heat exchanger, inside which the process of phase transition of the coolant from a liquid state to a vapor state is carried out, due to the supply of heat from a hotter coolant.

If we consider in detail the vaping device, then the evaporator in an electronic cigarette is a metal wire wound in a spiral around the wick. The wick is connected to the liquid tank and will transfer the liquid to the coil, which, under the influence of an electric current, will heat up.

This is the heart of your vaping machine, so it's important to know how to take it apart properly if you need to change the wick or rewind.

Vamo v3 mod

Today we will consider this particular device, due to its relative popularity of such models and the rather wide distribution of devices of this type. If you vape quite a lot, you can easily notice that after several refills the quantity and quality of smoke has changed for the worse, then something is wrong with our evaporator.

So, we disassemble our tank for servicing the evaporator. First of all, remove the silicone seal and remove the tube. From the first time, it may not come out very freely, so you will need to pry it off with either a knife or tweezers, which will be at your fingertips.

And here is a spiral presented to your eyes. In the case of prolonged use, as in our device in question, it will be abundantly covered with soot. Next, we take out the “fungus” from below, under which another gasket will be located. It also needs to be removed, paying attention and remembering which side it was on.

We take out the spiral with the wick. This spectacle may remind you of the "lungs of a smoker" from the public service announcement about the dangers of tobacco smoking for human health. To remove carbon deposits from the spiral, it must be thoroughly heated over a gas burner.

Atomizer Base - atomizer, EC-Head - evaporator head, Air Pipe - air duct, Glass Tube - glass tube, Top cap - top cap, Mouthpiece - mouthpiece.

After that, after a little wrinkling, we will clean the spiral from the soot accumulated on it. Inside the spiral, using a needle or a toothpick, we thread a brand new wick, or in the absence of one, ordinary cotton wool will do. Ideally, vaping gurus recommend Japanese cotton, but harsh everyday life says that make-up remover sponges work very well.

Next, the most important thing: the two ends of the spiral must be threaded into the rubber seal so that the long free end is inside the seal, and the second is outside. This is done in order to avoid closing the contacts of the spiral. This will cause the evaporator to malfunction and the disassembly process will need to be repeated to correct this oversight.

After that, we insert the “fungus” so that the output of the spiral is between it and the seal. The spiral inside the container should be strictly in the center and should not touch the walls of the cartridge. Then we assemble the upper tube and seal to the end. The loose edges of the cotton wool that stick out too much should be cut off and then the vaporizer should be inserted into your device.

The eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing

There is nothing military and particularly difficult in disassembling the evaporator at all.

In order to disassemble and repair the evaporator, and after that also assemble it correctly back, remember the following points:

• when you first disassemble the device, write down the dismantling procedure on paper so that you can rely on the instructions for assembly;
• do not be afraid to damage the device. If something goes wrong, go back to the very beginning and check the correct assembly in detail.

Explore your device, and don't be afraid to take it apart. After all, any device will need repair and replacement of components, and you will certainly need these skills.

Oral health is impossible without quality care, and a toothbrush is the first assistant in this. The quality of cleaning with its help depends on the type of paste and the correct manipulation. On the advice of dentists, more and more people are switching to electric toothbrushes. They are better cleaned of plaque, carefully treat the oral cavity in hard-to-reach places.

Types of electric toothbrushes Braun Oral-B

Testing of electric toothbrushes Oral B Braun showed their effectiveness in combating the formation of tartar, soft plaque, the spread of caries. Special nozzles help to cope with a change in the shade of enamel from tobacco, coffee, tea, and other stains. Polishing tips eliminate the unpleasant taste and feeling of "dirty" teeth.

Not everyone is shown such devices, therefore, when choosing, it is important to get the advice of a dentist. A good doctor will not recommend electric brushes to patients with sensitive enamel, wedge-shaped teeth, bleeding gums, artificial teeth. A contraindication is also the presence of a pacemaker, neoplasms in the oral cavity.

Electric brushes need a source of energy - batteries or accumulators. The power and nature of the rotation of the head, the ability to take the device on a trip depends on the type of battery. Experts advise choosing a device based on the desired functionality.

Mechanical

The cleaning element in mechanical models is a round head with bristles. Depending on the possibility of the brush, it is capable of rotating in a circular pulsating or reciprocating mode, performing from 5,000 to 30,000 combined movements per minute.

The negative aspects of Oral B Professional mechanical devices are low power compared to sonic and ultrasonic devices, the movement of the heads in only one direction. This reduces the capabilities of the device, but does not become an obstacle for people who do not need special dental care.

Sonic and ultrasonic

The Oral b Braun sound models contain a high frequency sound waveform generator. The head vibrates at up to 18,000 strokes per minute. At the same time, the oral cavity is well cleaned of plaque, and sound vibrations weaken the bond between bacteria and the enamel surface. When cleaning with such models, special skills are not required, and even children can master the process.

In ultrasonic devices, cleansing is based on the active influence of ultrasound on bacteria that are present on the gums and teeth. High-frequency waves penetrate 4 mm. deep into the bristles, allowing you to clean the interdental space, gingival sulcus, and other hard-to-reach places. Models of ultrasonic brushes remove soft pigment deposits. During operation, the device raises the temperature of surrounding tissues by 1 degree. This contributes to the active penetration of the healing components of the paste.

No brush can cope with tartar and hard plaque. To remove them, special techniques are used in the office of a dental hygienist.

Recharging the device

The battery-powered instrument is supplied with a charger with a two-way plug for recharging. It is plugged into an outlet for electric shavers, or using an adapter to a regular outlet. Charging is carried out inductively, without metal elements connecting the handle and the device. Thanks to this, the charging base can be placed anywhere convenient, including in the bathroom.

The best option for owners of electric toothbrushes is to keep them on charge all the time between uses. When using for the first time, the manufacturer recommends fully charging the battery (within 12-16 hours), and then fully discharge it. Then fully charge the battery again and keep it in working condition. This procedure will prolong battery life. It is recommended to repeat it every six months.

When do batteries need to be changed?

When it is not possible to connect to the power supply, a full charge of the electric brush should be enough for a week. A decrease in battery functionality indicates that it is exhausting its resource, and a new one will soon be required. After how many months is the first replacement necessary? It usually takes at least 2 years from the start of operation to the first battery change. Signs that the battery in your Oral B needs to be replaced:

• the charge is enough for 1-2 brushings;
• the quality of cleaning the oral cavity decreases;
• the brush does not vibrate so actively;
• at the wrong moment, the device turns off, although it was recently charged.

These signs may indicate other malfunctions of the device. It is better to re-read the instructions again, where non-working situations are described. If the brush is more than two years old, the probable cause of the malfunction is in the battery.

You can take the device to a service center or contact a jack of all trades. However, it is much easier and more economical to do the replacement yourself.

Battery Replacement Method

By default, the battery is considered a non-removable part of the brush, but if necessary, it is not difficult to replace it yourself. To do this, you should study the video material on the network and follow these instructions:

A similar method is used when changing batteries in any Oral B electric toothbrushes (professional care 500, vitality, and many others). Replacement batteries can be ordered online (Aliexpress, Taobao, Ebay), or purchased at specialized stores. The technique will extend the life of the device, save a lot of money on the purchase of a new brush.