The better to insulate the walls of the bath. Bath insulation from the inside: cheap and safe. Why insulating a bath from the inside is a good idea

All the advantages of a bath may be unattainable if, at the stage of its finishing, the issue of internal insulation was not worked out carefully enough. Even with proper construction according to a time-tested project, the walls of the bath without additional thermal insulation will not be able to retain heat acceptably. And this means a decrease in comfort during bath procedures, and an increase in the cost of kindling. Meanwhile, there are many options how to avoid unacceptable heat losses.

The better to insulate the bath from the inside

What materials to use for internal insulation of the bath? The longest in the practice of building baths are used natural materials, which have been available throughout the history of the existence of such structures. Our ancestors often insulated the inner surfaces of the bath walls with improvised materials: hemp hemp, linen tow, moss, etc. All of the above is used today, because. natural materials have a very significant advantage over other thermal insulation: they are absolutely environmentally friendly.

However, natural insulation has some features that significantly reduce their attractiveness. First of all, the process of finishing the bath with natural thermal insulation is a very, very laborious process. Even with all the simplicity of the technology, caulking a bath with moss or tow will take an excessive amount of time.

Secondly, natural materials are attractive not only to the owner of the bath. Birds and small rodents love to take them away for their own needs, and insects can easily start in the moss layer, which also do not contribute to the durability of the material. Therefore, the insulation of a bath from natural materials requires regular updating.

More modern synthetic materials completely devoid of these shortcomings. With no less environmental friendliness, they have a much longer service life, and in terms of thermal insulation parameters they even surpass natural alternatives.

In addition, synthetic materials are not at all afraid of exposure to moisture and high temperatures characteristic of a bath, they are distinguished by their low weight and simple technology for working with them.

Among the synthetic heat-insulating materials suitable for interior decoration of the bath, most widespread expanded polystyrene, basalt fiber, mineral wool and glass wool. When deciding how and what is better to insulate the bath inside, it is necessary to understand that for the same purpose, each of these materials also has some differences.

Styrofoam. Its main feature is a successful combination of excellent thermal insulation, low cost and low weight. However, in relation to the bath, this material can only be used to insulate the outer walls of the dressing room. In the washing room, due to the high temperature, polystyrene foam can lose its shape, thereby violating the thermal insulation. It is generally unacceptable to use this material for warming the steam room, since it is a fire hazard.
Basalt fiber insulation they cannot boast of a pleasant price tag, however, in relation to a bath, they can be an ideal solution. Since basalt fiber is produced from molten rocks, it has some important features:

absolute incombustibility;
resistance to mechanical deformation and moisture;
excellent level of sound absorption;
excellent thermal insulation.

Basalt insulation is quite convenient for finishing, as it is perfectly cut into pieces of the required shape. Their service life, which can reach several decades, is also noteworthy.

Mineral wool. The technology of its manufacture is in many ways similar to the production of basalt insulation. However, instead of rock in the production of mineral wool, much cheaper waste from the metallurgical industry is used. And this most positively affects the cost of such thermal insulation.

Other benefits of mineral wool include:

low thermal conductivity (guarantee of the reliability of thermal insulation);
hydrophobicity, allowing the use of mineral wool in conditions of high humidity;
ability to absorb sound.

Meanwhile, mineral wool, due to the characteristics of the raw materials for its manufacture, does not differ in mechanical strength. Therefore, when working with such material, it is desirable to exercise some caution.

Video on how to properly insulate the bath from the inside.

glass wool. At its core, this heat-insulating material is an interweaving of thin fibers of inorganic glass. Therefore, glass wool contains a significant amount of air in its volume, which ensures the ability to perfectly retain heat with good vapor permeability.

One of the significant advantages of glass wool over analogues is the relatively low cost. In this case, it is always possible to choose a heater of the required thickness. Both rolls of glass wool of different widths, as well as industrially cut mats and slabs are on sale.

And in this photo one of the schemes for warming the bath from the inside.

Warming the bath from the inside

A feature of the insulation of internal walls in the bath is a high level of humidity. Therefore, even in the case when thermal insulation insensitive to moisture is chosen, insulation will be required. securely cover with a layer of vapor barrier. If this is not done, then moisture will begin to condense inside the insulation material, which is fraught with a decrease in the ability to retain heat and the likelihood of rotting of the wall material.

As a vapor barrier for baths, aluminum foil can be used, which not only protects the insulation from condensation, but also reflects heat to a large extent. To ensure the integrity of the vapor barrier, all seams between sheets of foil should be glued with metallized tape.

Since the conditions in the bath in different rooms are significantly different, the insulation technology will vary significantly.

Wall insulation in the steam room.

Here the sequence of actions will be as follows:

a crate of dry wooden beams or slats is hung on the surface of the walls;
the cells formed by the laths of the crate are covered with a fiberglass cloth;
heat-insulating material is laid (basalt is best);
a layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of everything.

The final stage of wall insulation in the steam room will be the installation of decorative trim. As such, it is best to use a wooden lining.

Another video about warming the bath from the inside and how to sheathe the steam room inside.

Ceiling insulation.

This operation is in many ways similar to improving the thermal insulation of walls. The differences will be that when insulating the ceiling in the washing room and in the dressing room, you can refuse to use aluminum foil as a vapor barrier. Instead, it is quite possible to use cheaper polyethylene or kraft paper.

In addition, it is worth leaving a gap of 1-2 cm between the vapor barrier layer and the decorative ceiling cladding. This distance will improve the ventilation of the cladding material to speed up its drying. This moment is quite important, because during the bath procedures, the ceiling lining is exposed to the damaging effects of moisture at very high temperatures. The presence of a gap will allow the tree not to rot, but to dry out without compromising its operational and aesthetic qualities.

Floor insulation.

Heat loss in the bath can occur not only through the walls or ceiling, but also through the floor, which is especially important in winter. Therefore, the floors must also be carefully insulated. The sequence of actions for floor insulation will be as follows:

a concrete screed is poured on a leveled and compacted base of the earthen floor;
after the screed has hardened, a waterproofing layer of dense polyethylene or roofing felt is lined;
sheets or sheets of insulation are laid;
another layer of waterproofing is lined;
poured another layer of concrete screed.

Since the floors in the bath are constantly in contact with water, when they are insulated, the thoroughness of laying the waterproofing should be given the greatest possible attention.

It is very important that water, even with minor damage to the top layer of the concrete screed, cannot penetrate into the insulation layer and thereby deprive it of its heat-insulating qualities.

Having solved the problem of how to properly insulate the bath from the inside, you can get a guarantee that it will be possible to quickly warm up all the rooms even in severe frosts. The sauna event itself will become much more comfortable, as the temperature will be consistently high.

This is especially important for lovers of a strong steam bath, because with insufficient thermal insulation of the steam room, the procedure will lose its attractiveness. Using the same modern insulating materials, you can permanently get rid of such problems.

In the sauna room, the microclimate is unique. Proper arrangement of the building involves warming the bath inside. This process is laborious, but quite doable on your own.

Information on how to properly insulate the bath inside will allow the owner to greatly improve its performance. After completion of the work, it will be possible to save on fuel and ensure the safety of thermal energy in the room.

When deciding how to insulate a wooden bath from the inside with your own hands, a number of factors should be taken into account:

properties of the material used to provide thermal protection;
personal construction skills and abilities;
own preferences.

Features of materials for thermal protection

To decide how and what is better to insulate the bath from the inside, you need to know the conditions under which the materials will be used:

First of all, you need to take into account that both in the steam room and in the washing room the air is characterized by high humidity. In the dressing room, it is unlikely to be dry. Taking into account these factors, we can conclude: you need to choose a non-hygroscopic insulation or the material must have reliable vapor and waterproofing. Thermal insulation for a bath in a steam room must be of high quality.
In the steam room, the air temperature often reaches more than 100 degrees. Insulation materials such as extruded polystyrene and polystyrene foam, under conditions of strong heating, will begin to release substances harmful to human health. For the same reason, plastic panels and linoleum cannot be used to finish the steam room. In the first case, the products are subject to deformation even at 80 degrees of heat.
A significant part of the thermal energy under high temperature conditions begins to be lost both due to heat transfer and in the form of thermal radiation. To prevent heat loss, the insulation for the bath on the walls from the inside must have a foil surface or a reflective layer consisting of foil must be provided in the thermal insulation scheme.

Insulation of different types of walls

The choice of how to insulate the walls of the bath from the inside depends on the type of material from which it was built:

If it is brick, stone or concrete products thermal protection required. The fact is that when there is no thermal insulation, the bath will have weeping walls and, as a result of temperature fluctuations, they will quickly begin to collapse. The thickness of the insulation should be chosen taking into account the parameters of the supporting structures and the climate in the region. Most often, experts recommend a 10-centimeter layer.
Is it necessary to insulate a wooden bath? On the one hand, the thermal protection of the building will not interfere, and on the other hand, wood can be called one of the best materials for the walls of the steam room and dressing room. Of course, it is required to insulate baths from a bar with a wall thickness of no more than 15 centimeters. Bath log buildings are thermally insulated when the cross section of the log does not exceed 20 centimeters.

From the inside, walls of greater thickness are either not insulated, or thermal protection is made with the arrangement of waterproofing and clapboard trim. The crate is arranged only if there are blockages on the walls.

Horizontally located strips of vapor barrier are fastened with a stapler with a 5 cm overlap to prevent water from penetrating under the material. First, the bottom sheets are hemmed. Polyethylene should not be used for vapor barrier due to high temperatures.

Choice of materials for insulation

Basalt wool is considered the best solution for insulating a bath from the inside. Rigid mats 10 cm thick are used. With thermal protection of the ceiling, the thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be about 15-20 centimeters, since heat loss mainly occurs through the ceiling.

To insulate the bath inside, you still need to have materials at your disposal:

For crates. The most reliable option for bath buildings made of brick or stone is to build a frame from a profile used for drywall (read: ""). The CD ceiling profile is often chosen, and the UD guide profile is used to make a border along the perimeter of the walls. The step of fixing direct suspensions is from 60 to 80 centimeters. The gap between the profiles must be made less by 1-2 centimeters compared to the width of the insulation boards. In wooden baths, bars are used as a profile.
For waterproofing. Requires heat-resistant material with foil, impervious to moisture and steam. There is a large selection of such products on the construction market. For example, you can purchase foamed foil polypropylene, designed for temperatures up to 150 degrees. This material is able to protect the walls of the room from dampness and reflect radiant heat, thereby reducing heat loss. So a layer of Penotherm 3 mm thick provides a degree of thermal protection like a 150 mm beam.
For a fine finish. Usually, insulation is placed in a bath under the lining, as in the photo. This material is produced for final finishing from linden or aspen, since the products of these tree species are resistant to decay processes, do not heat up even at high temperatures, and retain their original appearance for a long time.

Thermal insulation of floors, windows and doors

When a decision is made on how to insulate the bath inside with your own hands, take into account the possibility of increasing the degree of thermal resistance at the ceiling and walls. True, the cool floor and the presence of drafts also take away a lot of heat.

To insulate the door leading to the steam room, a thick felt frame is attached to it, which will reliably cover the cracks. Wooden frames at the windows located in the steam room, dressing room and washing room are insulated with cotton wool.

As for plastic, it is not installed in places with high temperatures, but in other rooms you should not be afraid that polymers will undergo thermal decomposition. Self-adhesive foam strips are used to protect plastic windows.

The choice of products, the better to insulate the bath inside, depends on the type of flooring. Expanded clay is poured onto the surface of the leaking wood floor, and boards are already mounted on top of the leveled backfill. It will be useful to understand how to insulate a bath from expanded clay concrete blocks from the insideso that problems do not appear later.

They begin to equip a concrete leaking floor with digging a foundation pit 50 centimeters deep.

The layers of the thermal insulation structure are arranged in the direction from bottom to top in the following sequence:

sand -5 centimeters;
polystyrene -20 centimeters;
concrete mixed in a ratio of 1: 1 with foam chips - 5 centimeters;
waterproofing;
concrete combined with vermiculite in a ratio of 1: 1 (the so-called natural material with low thermal conductivity) - 5 centimeters;
reinforced screed -5 centimeters.

In the process of pouring the foundation, it is necessary to equip the slope. A boardwalk is mounted on top of the concrete screed on the logs.

In the case when a continuous floor covering is needed, heat-insulating material is laid on top of the rough base with a layer of 10-20 centimeters, it can be mineral wool or polystyrene. Then it is covered with waterproofing, not forgetting to overlap the walls. A reinforced screed 5-10 centimeters high is mounted on top of this layer.

Then, as a rule, lay a tile. Despite the fact that the tiles in the steam room do not heat up to a high temperature, it is advisable to provide for the presence of wooden footrests to make visiting the bath more enjoyable.

Arrangement of thermal protection of walls and ceiling

Insulation of the walls and ceiling of the bath from the inside is similar to how it is done in other rooms, while special attention should be paid to the reliability of laying the vapor barrier layer.

Stage one - creating a crate. The order of how to insulate the ceiling in the bath from the inside suggests that the distance from the crate to the base of the wall or ceiling must be made slightly larger than the thickness of the material for thermal insulation.

When using galvanized profiles, this gap is adjusted with the help of suspensions, and the bar is nailed with a lining, it can be a piece of the bar. For wooden crates, galvanized suspensions are also used.

The profile fastening sequence is as follows:

A UD guide profile is fixed along the perimeter of the walls or ceiling, observing a 60-centimeter step. It is mounted to a beam or logs with self-tapping screws, and to brick or concrete walls - with screws with plastic dowels.
The axes of the CD profiles are marked, taking into account the fact that the gap between them should allow laying the heat insulator plates without trimming. Then hangers are attached to the wall, observing a step of 60-80 centimeters.
To install and fix CD profiles to suspensions, metal screws 9 mm long are taken. The free edges of the suspensions need to be bent.

Stage two - installation of insulation. Basalt wool in slabs is placed between the bars (profiles). Similarly, the insulation of a ventilated facade or loggias is performed. Work must be done in a respirator (gauze bandage) and special glasses. The fact is that the small fibers of this material are volatile and, once on the human mucosa, greatly irritate it.

A standard sharp knife is used to cut the slabs. The insulation should not be crushed during installation. Regarding how best to insulate the bath, you need to know that with a constant weight of the material, the smaller its volume, the worse its heat-insulating qualities will be.

Stage three - vapor barrier device. Strips of material in the horizontal direction are fixed from the bottom up, observing a 5-centimeter overlap. The foil side of the insulation should be turned inside the room.

The method of fixing the vapor barrier depends on the material from which the crate is made. So, before you insulate the steam room in a log bath, you need to stock up on a construction stapler. In the presence of a galvanized profile, the strips are fixed with double-sided aluminum tape.

To create a high-quality vapor barrier, the insulation not only needs to be fixed, all existing joints should be glued with the same adhesive tape. Then moisture will not be able to penetrate the insulation.

Stage four - clapboard lining. To make the room cozy and beautiful after the completion of the insulation, it is necessary to finish the walls.

First, prepare the tools and materials necessary for the work, including:

circular saw or electric jigsaw;
drill - screwdriver;
rasp (required when fitting and processing the edge of the lining);
building square (necessary for marking boards);
level and plumb (they are in demand when checking verticals and horizontals);
metal clamps for fixing wooden lining;
copper or galvanized screws, which are needed to fasten the kleimers to the bars;
self-tapping screws for metal;
wooden skirting boards for finishing corners.

When carrying out work, you need to take into account a number of points:

There should be a small gap between the lining and the vapor barrier layer. In addition, gaps (no more than 1-2 centimeters) are arranged along the edges of the ceiling, as well as in the upper and lower parts of the walls.

The end boards in each row of lining should be fixed with screws through and through, and their caps will be covered by the plinth. All other boards will be held by the clamps.

The above procedure for carrying out work allows you to both insulate the old bathhouse from the inside, and a completely new building. The thermal protection of the bath structure is a very important stage, since the efficiency of the steam room depends on its quality. The main thing in the work is to take into account the slightest nuances and then the result will exceed expectations.

It's a shame after the construction of the bath to find that the building cools down quickly, and the heat is not the same. The reason can be only one thing - improper thermal insulation of the steam room. So that warming the sauna with your own hands does not become a disappointment, study the advice of experts!

Thermal insulation of the sauna - the principle of a thermos

Seventy percent of the heat in a bath or sauna is referred to as radiant heat. That is, heating occurs not due to an increase in air temperature (or rather, not only due to it), but due to heat rays from the stove or heated stones. In the same way, you warm yourself by a fire - even at a remote distance you feel heat, and this heat is not from the heated air, but the rays emanating from the fire itself. As soon as a barrier is placed between the fire and you, you will no longer feel these rays.

The task with proper insulation is to keep these rays inside the steam room, otherwise it will heat up for a long time and cool down quickly.

Imagine an ordinary thermos with tea. If the hot liquid were inside an ordinary metal can, the heat would escape through the walls. But in a thermos, the rays bounce off the foil, so the tea doesn't cool as quickly. The same "thermos effect" must be created inside the bath with the help of heat-insulating materials. One of the most popular misconceptions is the belief that it is enough to beat the walls with insulation and eurolining, and the job is done.

In fact, as we already understand, thermal insulation of saunas and baths is a much more complicated process. However, not so much that everyone could not do it. The second misconception, or rather, the desire for naturalness, leads people to insulate with materials that are prone to decay - we are talking about insulation with moss. Moss at high humidity not only rots, but is also able to infect wood with rot. True, there is an exception - red building moss. But he is also subject to a problem that at first no one thinks about - all kinds of bugs and birds can pull your insulation system apart into small pieces.

How to insulate - all about materials for insulation

For warming baths and saunas, basalt fiber is most often used. What these materials are good for is durability, fire resistance and moisture resistance. In addition, they are not afraid of rotting. For convenience, manufacturers produce such heaters in the form of rolls, mats or plates.

Baths are also insulated with organic materials, such as wood concrete - these are blocks made from a mixture of sawdust and cement. Such blocks can be made independently and used even in those climatic zones where temperatures are low. True, such a heater has a significant drawback - it is flammable. However, if you make blocks with your own hands, you can add substances to the solution that make the tree refractory. With the help of wood concrete, you can significantly save on the construction of a bath, however, it is recommended that the steam room area be upholstered with the same mineral wool - as they say, out of harm's way.

For dressing rooms and rest rooms, materials based on polymers - polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam - are well suited. Again, fire resistance is not listed in their qualities, therefore, in steam rooms, where there is a high chance of ignition, it is better not to use them. In addition to insulation, you should also take care of vapor barrier. For these purposes, inexpensive roofing felt and glassine are most often used, but such savings are harmful to health.

When heated, these materials release toxins that easily enter the human body through the lungs.. Aluminum foil or foil-coated thermal insulation materials can solve two problems at once - this is not only a vapor barrier, but also the reflection of heat back into the room. Manufacturers go further by offering foil coated fiberglass mats. When working with such a task is simplified - the whole process is reduced to almost one stage.

Do-it-yourself sauna warming - step by step!

We figured out the materials, now it's the turn of the insulation process itself. Let's make a reservation right away that this process is not simple and rather expensive, but isn't it worth it? According to all standard schemes, the warming of the bathhouse begins from the floor. And we are talking not only about reducing the degree of displacement of warm air by cold, but also about the comfort of people - it is much more pleasant to walk barefoot on a warm, heated floor in a hot steam room.

How to insulate a sauna with your own hands - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Floor insulation

When installing a solid floor, the insulation is laid on a rough plank floor, on top of it, in turn, a waterproofing layer is attached, so that its edges go onto the walls by no less than 10 centimeters. After that, the finishing floor is laid.

Leaking floors are more complex. To begin with, a pit breaks out with a depth of half a meter, which is filled with sand by 5 cm. The sand is compacted, and foam plates 20 cm thick are laid on it. They must be poured with a five-centimeter layer of a mixture of cement with foam chips (1: 1). Waterproofing is laid on the concrete and again poured with a layer of cement with vermiculite (also 1: 1) 5 cm thick. Then a reinforcing mesh is spread and concrete with fine-grained gravel is poured. Concrete is taken in such a way as to ensure a slope towards the drain. As soon as the screed has hardened properly, the finishing floor is laid.

Step 2: Lathing walls and ceilings

Wall and ceiling insulation technology is almost identical, so the work is not divided into two stages, but is carried out simultaneously. First you need to perform a crate of surfaces. If you have a sawmill at home, you can easily make the bars you need with dimensions of 50 * 50 mm. You need to fill them vertically, keeping a distance slightly less than the width of the insulation. As a result, we get miniature niches in which the insulation is straightened. So he will take his place more tightly.

Step 3: Warming

If you have chosen fiberglass or mineral wool, then due to their elasticity they will not need any fastening - just cut the necessary pieces and straighten them between the crate. The recommended thickness of the insulation, depending on the climate of the region, is from 50 to 100 mm, the colder the region, the larger the insulation layer. The ceiling is always insulated with a double portion of materials.

In order for the bathhouse to please with warmth, the absence of drafts and dampness, it is necessary to properly insulate the walls, floor and ceiling. You also need to know which insulation is best to use for outdoor or indoor work.

Basic requirements for the material for warming the bath.

Moisture resistance.
Fire resistance.
High vapor barrier.
Rot resistance.
Resistant to deformation with a sharp change in temperature.

Materials that can be used for indoor and outdoor use are divided into three types.

Also, heaters can be divided by composition and content.

When insulating a bath, it is required to sheathe all planes of the room with insulation: floor, walls and ceiling. Only in this case there will be no heat leaks and water procedures will be as comfortable and enjoyable as possible.

Insulation of the bath must begin from the floor. As a rule, in rooms with high humidity, the arrangement of two types of floors is practiced: leaking and solid. Solid structures are supplemented with a central drain, and leaking ones are equipped with a crate, under which water flows into a drain mounted below the level of the finished floor.

The floor under the wooden crate, through which water escapes, resembles a multi-layered sandwich made of various materials. All insulation materials must be installed in series.

Step 1

To equip leaking floors with insulation, you need to dig a hole 60 cm deep. The dimensions of the hole should match the perimeter of the washing room or steam room.

Step 2

The bottom of the pit should be flat and dry. At the bottom, you need to pour a pillow of sand and carefully tamp it down. Pillow height - 5-6 cm.

Step 3

Styrofoam slabs are laid on top of the sand. The material must be at least 20 cm wide. The joints of the plates must be carefully fitted to each other, there should be no gaps.

Step 4

A solution is poured over the plates, consisting of a mixture of cement and finely crushed foam plastic, 50-60 mm thick. The solution must dry.

Step 5

A waterproofing material is laid on top of the concrete screed; ordinary roofing material can be used. The edges of the roofing material should be overlapped on the walls.

Step 6

A cement screed is poured onto the roofing material, in which vermiculite is added 1 to 1. Screed thickness - 50 mm.

Step 7

Reinforcement. For these purposes, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the screed.

Step 8

On top of the grid, a concrete screed is again poured, into which small gravel is added, the recommended layer thickness is 50 mm.

Step 9

Installation of posts to support a wooden floor.

Step 10

Flooring with technical gaps through which water will escape.

Important: the installation of the drain pipe must be carried out before the start of insulation. The last layer of screed should be poured at a slight slope towards the drain so that water does not accumulate on the concrete floor.

Insulation of solid floors in the bathhouse is carried out in the same way as in residential buildings.

Laying insulation is best done during construction work. It is optimal to build a double floor structure: rough and finish.

The insulation that is most suitable in terms of technical characteristics and price, for example, mineral wool, is located between the finishing and rough layer of boards. It is recommended to lay a waterproofing material on top, which will prevent the insulation from getting wet.

It is important to know! In the sink, it is best to lay ceramic tiles that are resistant to high humidity.

Internal wall insulation in baths built from various materials

Brick baths are insulated during construction. You can use both bulk and material in the form of plates. Loose insulation, such as expanded clay, is covered in layers, between which lime mortar is poured. Layered pouring reduces the thermal conductivity of the walls by filling voids with mortar.

Insulation in the form of plates is attached to the walls with the help of special fittings. On top of the plates, it is recommended to additionally mount a vapor barrier that protects the insulation from moisture and high temperatures.

Panel and frame baths are insulated with lightweight materials that do not create additional load on the frame. Styrofoam, expanded polystyrene, reed or fiberboard plates are the best heaters for frame structures. The material is attached to the walls, there should be no gaps between the plates. A layer of vapor barrier is necessarily mounted on top of the insulation, which prevents the absorption of moisture by the plates.

To insulate walls and ceilings made of natural wood, glass wool mats or mineral slabs are the most successful option.

Also, plates with a one-sided layer of foil - isover, ursa - are in special demand - these materials perform two functions at once: they are a vapor barrier and a heater.

In regions with a cold climate, the use of several types of insulation materials at once is practiced, which helps to minimize heat loss.

For internal insulation of a bath from a bar, the following materials and tools are required:

insulation in the form of plates;
vapor barrier film or isover;
construction tape;
beams with a section of 50 by 50 mm for a double frame;
lining for finishing walls;
self-tapping screws;
screwdriver;
a hammer.