Regardless of whether the summer resident has acquired empty land or has long been the owner of a chic plot, planting fruit trees will not blow anyone. Some will create the garden of their dreams, others will rejuvenate it. All work must be carried out according to the rules and within a certain time frame.

About the rules and terms of planting fruit trees

In order for the orchard to develop well, its laying is carried out taking into account rationalism, acting in the following sequence:

• first determine the optimal place for each seedling;
• carry out preplant preparation of the site;
• mark places for each tree;
• dig holes and plant plants in them;
• watered and pruned.

When choosing a landing site, you should consider the location of the neighboring site. Tall trees cannot be planted near adjacent fences - they will obscure someone else's territory. You should not place them near buildings either - in the future, the branches will lie on the roof and can damage the roof.

Fruit trees

It will also be inconvenient to prune such trees and harvest from them. In addition, there is additional (labor-intensive) work to collect fallen leaves. If it is not removed from the roof in time, then this leaf fall will begin to rot there.

Dwarf trees, like shrubs, can be safely placed under vigorous crops (apple and pear trees). They will not interfere with each other in development.

Nice neighborhood

When choosing crops for your garden, stone and pome breeds are located separately from each other at a considerable distance (as far as the garden plot allows). This will facilitate the fight against diseases of fruit trees and pests.

When choosing a neighborhood, consider the compatibility of plants:

• the apple tree gets along well with pears, plums, quince, cherries; next to some shrubs (currant, barberry, viburnum, mock orange, lilac), the culture feels uncomfortable;
• it is better to plant a pear with its own kind and apple trees, trying to avoid proximity to the already mentioned shrubs - they oppress culture in the same way as plums;
• cherry trees are best planted separately from other fruit trees, this will provide a better harvest.

On a note! The binding to the "wind rose" is important. Peaches, apricots and cherries are best planted in southern, southwestern directions. For the rest, the northern side of the site is most comfortable. Although in this case it is worth considering also the region.

So, in the Moscow region and other regions of central Russia, most often the western and northwestern patches of the site are assigned to the garden. Southerners prefer exclusively the north - this way you can protect the trees from overheating.

In the northern zone, of course, the most suitable place is the southern corner of the cottage. Not a single specialist allocates the eastern allotment for a garden plantation, leaving it for building a house.

Note! When choosing a place, you need to take into account the relief. You should not plant a slope with a garden if it is too steep - the fertile layer will constantly be washed out from under the roots. It is also worth ignoring the lowlands, where melt water accumulates in spring, and the wood is damaged by fragments of sliding ice.

Tree transplant

You can grow a garden in one place for decades. But sometimes there comes a time when it is necessary to transplant fruit trees to another site. Only viable plants suitable for fruiting are selected.

To plant an adult tree in a new place, it is prepared for the “move” in advance. 1-2 years before that, a groove is dug around the plant, located along the circumference of the crown. The width of the recess is 0.3-0.4 m, the depth is 0.8-1 m. This work is done in early spring.

In the process, the roots are exposed, which are cut off from the general system. Sections are treated with clay-earth talker, to which a growth stimulator should also be added.

The ditch is sprinkled with earth mixed with humus, and watered abundantly. From this moment until digging, many fibrous processes form on the roots around the trunk. With their help, the plant will take root in a new place.

During such transplants, the main difficulty lies in extracting the tree from the old pit. To do everything neatly, you will have to use the leverage system. The removed plant is immediately transferred to a new place, where a spacious pit has already been prepared for it.

fruit tree transplant

It is best to transplant trees no older than 5 years. But this option is not suitable for all cultivated plants. To preserve the variety of cherries, plums, pears, apple trees, it is better to graft them onto a younger tree. There are 3 main methods of grafting: budding, cuttings, ablactation, allowing you to save (or improve) the variety.

Timing

Each summer resident determines the landing time for himself. April is suitable for some - the first decade of May, others are more satisfied with October. Recently, such enthusiasts have appeared that they plant fruit trees in the summer.

Note! The laws of fruit growing recommend planting stone fruits in spring, and pome fruits in autumn.

But experienced gardeners argue that this condition should not be so strictly adhered to. The main thing in planting garden trees is to follow the rules of agricultural technology and maintain the crop placement pattern.

Best time to plant: spring or fall

Beginning summer residents often wonder when it is better to plant fruit trees: in spring or autumn. To choose the optimal time for gardening, first of all, you should take into account the climatic region:

Having chosen a suitable month for planting work, it is recommended to look into the Lunar Calendar, which is published annually in periodicals to help "juniors of gardening". The astrological document indicates the best days when planting fruit crops is recommended.

Do not ignore this information, because they have been using this method since ancient times (and not only in Russia). The moon actively influences all biological processes occurring on Earth, this fact has been proven by science.

Planting fruit trees in summer

Among modern summer residents there are those who do not like the investigator to stereotypes. They also practice planting garden trees in the summer. In addition, at the present time it is really possible to do this without damaging the trees.

Previously, the argument against the summer period was hot weather, which prevented normal rooting. But then the seedlings were sold exclusively with an open root system, which, indeed, is more comfortable to take root at a low temperature in well-moistened soil.

Now nurseries sell trees in containers with soil mixture, and the plant is no longer so important at what temperature it is sent to the pit. The roots are quite well protected and do not dry out.

soil mixture

If an automated rationed irrigation system has been laid on the site, then summer is even more preferable for planting. June is considered a suitable month. You need to choose days based on the phases of the moon. You should wait for the second or third quarter of the activity of the night star in order to plant seedlings of fruit trees.

The soil temperature is also taken into account. If it is above 25 degrees Celsius, landing work in summer should be carried out either early in the morning (at 6-8 o'clock) or late in the evening, but before sunset. This will keep the root system from burning and enable the plant to better adapt.

Experienced gardeners highlight the following advantages of summer tree planting:

• you can choose the appropriate planting material without haste - in the summer there is no such influx of farmers in the nurseries;
• during the growing season it is easier to evaluate all the advantages of the purchased trees;
• summer planting seedlings have time to take root before the cold weather and are more resistant to winter than those planted in autumn.

Important! In order for young trees to endure winter frosts, during summer planting, all ovaries that have appeared on the plant should be removed. Otherwise, they will take the extra juices from the seedling onto themselves and weaken it.

Conditions for planting seedlings

The rules for planting fruit trees are common for all seasons. Therefore, the gardener just needs to follow these instructions:

• pits are prepared in advance - 2 weeks before planting seedlings; this is necessary so that the excavated earth has time to ventilate;
• the size of the excavation is determined by the type of soil and the type of fruit trees;
• the walls are drawn up vertically, and the bottom is loosened on the bayonet of a shovel;
• when forming a pit, the top layer of earth is laid separately from the bottom - it will need to be mixed with organic fertilizers (peat, manure, compost, humus) and laid on the bottom;
• before the seedling is lowered into the pit, the roots are dipped in a mash (clay mortar with the addition of earth);
• in the center of the pit, it is desirable to drive a one and a half meter pointed stake, straight and smooth;
• when planting a tree, it should be on the north side of the stake;
• the roots are straightened and sprinkled with earth;
• then the seedling is shaken, and the soil is slightly crushed; so repeat until the pit is filled with earth;
• when subsidence, the condition is observed - the root collar should rise 3-4 centimeters above the ground;
• having tied a tree to a stake with a soft cloth, several holes are made along the edge of the pit, through which the plant is watered abundantly.

Note! If the site has a close occurrence of groundwater, then a layer of fertilized earth is not simply poured into the pit, but a ridge mound is formed from it, a seedling is lowered onto it.

On this spring and summer planting can be considered complete. During autumn work, the final stage is the mulching of the near-stem circle with non-acidic peat or compost, 10 cm thick.

Soil acidity

The mechanical and chemical composition of the soil plays an important role in the laying of the garden. The roots of fruit trees need a suitable nutrient medium and comfortable conditions.

The most important parameter for agrarians is the ratio of cations and anions in the soil solution (pH reaction). These elements determine the acidity of the soil, which is indicated by the pH value.

Soil reaction is divided into 3 types: acidic, neutral and alkaline. The most promising land with a neutral pH of 6-7. But slightly acidic soil (pH 5-6) and slightly alkaline (pH 7-8) are quite suitable for a number of horticultural crops.

Increased acidity can be observed in regions with excessive precipitation (for example, the Leningrad and Moscow districts). A high alkaline level is more characteristic of hot dry areas.

Fruit trees

If the summer resident is not sure about the acidity of the soil in his area, he can take measurements with a potentiometer or use litmus paper. It will tell you the condition of the soil and the composition of the weeds growing there:

• for a neutral reaction, a garden thistle, field bindweed, creeping wheatgrass, chamomile are typical;
• white-bearded, mountaineer, chickweed, mullein, pikulnik, plantain, horsetail, sorrel indicate increased acidity.

Ameliorants will help improve the property of the land. Acidity can be lowered with lime, and increased with gypsum.

Planting in clay soil

Some horticultural crops prefer sandy soils, others take root well on clay soils, and others are not particularly demanding of this factor. Many fruit trees do not tolerate heavy clay and depleted sandy soils. Sandstones and loams are optimal for them.

The features of planting trees and the frequency of irrigation depend on the mechanical composition. The hardest thing is for farmers with clay soil. In such soil, it is difficult for plant roots to breathe. The density of the soil contributes to the long-term retention of moisture, which in the rainy season provokes the development of fungal diseases.

clay soil

An indicator of a heavy mechanical composition are dandelions, bluegrass, goose cinquefoil, creeping ranunculus. Having found such a “community” of weeds on your site, it is necessary to carry out sanding before planting the seedlings: during the preliminary digging of the site, river sand is added to the soil.

Clay soil is called structureless - it has an almost uniform composition. This interferes with water permeability. Therefore, such soil requires careful digging and regular loosening. To make this soil structural will allow the introduction of organic fertilizers during the preparation of the site for planting seedlings.

On a note! The introduction (along with fertilizers) of chopped straw or sawdust into a pit for planting fruit trees will help bring the soil composition closer to the loam.

A novice summer resident, in order to grow a chic garden on clay, should take into account the advice of experienced farmers:

• digging a clay area before planting seedlings is carried out twice: six months before digging holes and again 10 days before the main work;
• the depth of the hole under the tree is less than in fertile soil;
• clay talker for the roots in this case is not used;
• it is better to cover a seedling lowered into a pit with imported soil mixed with fertilizers;
• after planting the tree, the earth is not pressed hard so that it does not compact.

Growing fruit trees will be the more successful, the more attentively the summer resident treats the conditions of agricultural technology. The right choice of a place is important, taking into account the composition of the soil, determining the optimal time and observing the characteristics of planting. This is the only way to get a good harvest.

Spring is the most popular period of time for gardeners to plant vegetation. It is in spring that most plants are planted in open ground: from herbaceous annuals to tree and shrub species.

What age trees and shrubs can be planted in spring

In the spring, young plants are usually planted and transplanted. As a rule, these are seedlings aged 1-3 years. There is an opinion that the younger the seedling, the faster it takes root.

If you intend to plant mature trees up to 2 m high on your site, then keep in mind that slow-growing breeds that are 12-20 years old are the easiest to transplant.

Fast-growing species can be transplanted up to 10 years, and fruit trees - up to 8-16 years, depending on the species. For shrubs, the age limit for transplantation also depends on the specific species.

As for large-sized plants from 2 m and above, the best time to transplant them is frosty winter days. In winter, the earth is frozen and the earthy clod of a tree does not crumble during excavation, which makes it possible to transplant a large-sized tree without significant damage to the root system.

Laying a new garden

Let's say you are going to lay a new garden and have already purchased seedlings. You have a planting plan (scheme), you know which plants, where to plant, how to arrange them relative to each other and relative to the sun. The last question remains: “When will it be possible to plant them in the ground?”.

There are some differences in planting hardwood and softwood. In addition, the planting time also depends on which seedlings you purchased - with a closed or open root system.

Hardwood planting

For seedlings with a closed root system, purchased in containers or simply with an earthy clod, there are no strict time limits for planting. They can be planted from spring to autumn. The main thing is to provide them with proper care for the first time after landing.

However, the most optimal time for planting plants with a closed root system is the end of May - the beginning of June, when root growth is characterized by increased activity. By the way, they take root better than seedlings with bare roots, because. in this case, damage to the roots is practically excluded.

Plants with an open root system can be planted while they are at a stage of relative dormancy, i.e. the buds have not yet swollen and have not started to grow. In time, this is approximately the end of April - the beginning of May. If planting is carried out in the fall, then only after the trees have shed their leaves and nature begins to fall asleep.

It is advisable to plant seedlings with exposed roots immediately after purchase. If it is necessary to postpone this event for a while, then you can temporarily dig them in some shaded place: put them in a shallow hole at a slight angle and carefully cover the roots with soil.

Planting conifers

Coniferous and evergreen plants tolerate transplantation worse than deciduous species. Therefore, it is recommended to start planting them at an earlier date, a little earlier than deciduous ones.

Coniferous trees and shrubs should only be transplanted with a closed root system. Be careful not to buy coniferous seedlings with bare roots, without an earthen clod.

In addition, it is safer to buy those seedlings that were originally grown in containers, and were not transplanted into them shortly before the sale.

If coniferous seedlings are grown in open ground, then they are transplanted into a container for subsequent transportation and sale. And in the process of all these actions, any mistakes can be made, which later, after planting the plants in a permanent place, can lead to certain problems. Especially if transportation is provided for many kilometers from the place of excavation.

You can reduce the degree of risk by directly transplanting conifers directly from soil to soil, and in the shortest possible time. The most optimal time for digging coniferous seedlings from the ground is the period before the start of the growing season, i.e. in early spring. And the faster you plant them in a permanent place, the more likely it is that the plants will successfully take root.

What else affects the landing time

If your region has severe winters with little snow or clayey, highly compacted soil in your area, then spring planting of trees and shrubs is recommended in this case.

Since if planted in the fall, there is a risk that the plants will not have time to take root before winter. Moreover, heat-loving breeds should be planted only after the late spring frosts have passed.

When to cook holes

Pits and soil for planting trees and shrubs can be prepared in advance, 2-3 weeks in advance. But it is best to cook them in the fall, especially if the soil in your area is not light, i.e. clayey or loamy.

For this, pits of the required size are dug, the excavated earth, if necessary, is mixed with sand and poured back into the pits. Over the winter, the soil in the pit will settle just to the right level. In late autumn, organic fertilizers are applied to the pits, and in spring the soil is loosened and mineral fertilizers are applied.

The spring planting period is short

It is not worth delaying the spring planting of trees and shrubs, because. time for its implementation is very limited. As soon as the ground thaws, plants can be planted in the ground. But only until the moment when the active growth of the kidneys begins. And this period lasts only about 3 weeks and in temperate latitudes it falls in mid-April - early May.

Well, if you are suddenly late with spring planting, do not worry, most plants can be planted both in spring and in autumn. And, by the way, in the fall, the period of a possible landing lasts much longer - 1.5-2 months.

Usually shrubs and trees they begin to plant in the spring, from the moment of thawing until the moment the buds swell. Usually this period takes only 10-15 days. But you can start planting in the fall.

Stone fruits, including apples and pears, are planted first, as early as possible, but shrub seedlings can wait a bit - until the buds bloom a little.

In order to plant an orchard, it is necessary to choose large seedlings, not younger than two years old, but annuals are also possible. Because it is these seedlings that will most soon begin to bear fruit. Do not forget about a little trick - just before planting, the container with seedlings should be immersed in water, for about 1-2 hours, so that the earthen ball is saturated with moisture.

Usually, winter-resistant varieties of apple, cherry, pear and plum are suitable for spring planting. As well as apricot, sea buckthorn and sweet cherry. You can also plant strawberries. It is necessary to ensure that the soil is constantly moist, this will help the plants to take root. But currants, raspberries and gooseberries are strongly recommended to be planted in the fall.

Important that all planting pits must be prepared in the autumn so that the earth has time to settle. The diameter of the pit should be from 60 to 100 cm, depending on what exactly is to be planted. It is necessary to fill the pits with humus in the amount of two to four buckets for each. Just do not try to fill in mineral fertilizers, otherwise your seedlings will not take root. It is also forbidden to put unrotted manure on the bottom of the pit.
Proper planting is of great importance, as it will directly affect the growth and fruiting of a tree or shrub. Let's look at how to properly plant a seedling.

Desirable planting together, since one person will have to hold the seedling, spreading the roots, and the second - to fill the ground. To maximize the filling of voids between the roots, it is necessary to periodically shake the seedling. After filling the roots with earth, water the seedling with a bucket of water or even two. Do not forget that for backfilling the pit it is necessary to use only the top, most fertile soil layer. After planting is completed, it is required to pour a roller along the edges of the former pit to make a kind of hole near the seedling, and the soil must be trampled down. It is necessary to pour another bucket of water into the resulting hole, and then cover the soil with either rotted manure or fallen leaves that have been preserved since autumn. This is done so that a crust does not form on the surface.

When planting a seedling, it should be borne in mind that the root neck should be approximately flush with the soil surface. In general, the root neck is the very place where the roots of the seedling begin to pass into the trunk.

For tall seedlings trees, you need to put a stake as a support. In this case, the seedling should be located on the north side of the stake, which will protect it from sunburn. The stake must be driven into the ground before planting the seedling in the hole, so as not to accidentally damage its roots. The height of the stake should not reach the first branch of the tree, so that, with a possible wind, the branches are not damaged.

On the same day as you planted seedlings, you need to prune.

It is also worth thinking about fertilizers, which will help you get a good harvest and save the tree for many years. If you “fed” the soil before planting seedlings, then in the first year they do not need any fertilizers. And if not, then it is necessary to apply organic and mineral fertilizer (this is done in the fall), and in the spring it is recommended to feed the soil with nitrogen fertilizers, which are not applied immediately, but in two or three doses.

• superphosphate in the amount of two - three matchboxes per square meter
• potassium sulfate - one matchbox
• urea, or, as it is called scientifically, carbamide - a matchbox
• humus - is applied once every 2-3 years in the amount of three to four kilograms per square meter of soil
• slurry - diluted with water 2-4 times

Do not think that just applying organic fertilizers will give you a good result. No. Only in a combination of minerals and organic matter will the soil receive all the necessary substances that will increase its fertility and create a favorable environment for bacteria.

10.01.2017 14 822

Planting fruit trees - what requirements should be taken into account for a rich harvest?