When to plant fruit trees and shrubs. When to plant trees in spring? How to plant trees in spring? Preparing a planting hole for planting a seedling

Usually shrubs and trees they begin to plant in the spring, from the moment of thawing until the moment the buds swell. Usually this period takes only 10-15 days. But you can start planting in the fall.

Stone fruits, including apples and pears, are planted first, as early as possible, but shrub seedlings can wait a bit - until the buds bloom a little.

In order to plant an orchard, it is necessary to choose large seedlings, not younger than two years old, but annuals are also possible. Because it is these seedlings that will most soon begin to bear fruit. Do not forget about a little trick - the container with seedlings should be immersed in water immediately before planting, for about 1-2 hours, so that the earthen ball is saturated with moisture.

Usually, winter-resistant varieties of apple, cherry, pear and plum are suitable for spring planting. As well as apricot, sea buckthorn and sweet cherry. You can also plant strawberries. It is necessary to ensure that the soil is constantly moist, this will help the plants to take root. But currants, raspberries and gooseberries are strongly recommended to be planted in the fall.

Important that all planting pits must be prepared in the autumn so that the earth has time to settle. The diameter of the pit should be from 60 to 100 cm, depending on what exactly is to be planted. It is necessary to fill the pits with humus in the amount of two to four buckets for each. Just do not try to fill in mineral fertilizers, otherwise your seedlings will not take root. It is also forbidden to put unrotted manure on the bottom of the pit.
Proper planting is of great importance, as it will directly affect the growth and fruiting of a tree or shrub. Let's look at how to properly plant a seedling.

Desirable planting together, since one person will have to hold the seedling, spreading the roots, and the second - to fill the ground. To maximize the filling of voids between the roots, it is necessary to periodically shake the seedling. After filling the roots with earth, water the seedling with a bucket of water or even two. Do not forget that for backfilling the pit it is necessary to use only the top, most fertile soil layer. After planting is completed, it is required to pour a roller along the edges of the former pit to make a kind of hole near the seedling, and the soil must be trampled down. It is necessary to pour another bucket of water into the resulting hole, and then cover the soil with either rotted manure or fallen leaves that have been preserved since autumn. This is done so that a crust does not form on the surface.

When planting a seedling, it should be borne in mind that the root neck should be approximately flush with the soil surface. In general, the root neck is the very place where the roots of the seedling begin to pass into the trunk.

For tall seedlings trees, you need to put a stake as a support. In this case, the seedling should be located on the north side of the stake, which will protect it from sunburn. The stake must be driven into the ground before planting the seedling in the hole, so as not to accidentally damage its roots. The height of the stake should not reach the first branch of the tree, so that, with a possible wind, the branches are not damaged.

On the same day as you planted seedlings, you need to prune.

It is also worth thinking about fertilizers, which will help you get a good harvest and save the tree for many years. If you “fed” the soil before planting seedlings, then in the first year they do not need any fertilizers. And if not, then it is necessary to apply organic and mineral fertilizer (this is done in the fall), and in the spring it is recommended to feed the soil with nitrogen fertilizers, which are not applied immediately, but in two or three doses.

  • superphosphate in the amount of two - three matchboxes per square meter
  • potassium sulfate - one matchbox
  • urea, or, as it is called scientifically, carbamide - a matchbox
  • humus - is applied once every 2-3 years in the amount of three to four kilograms per square meter of soil
  • slurry - diluted with water 2-4 times

Do not think that just applying organic fertilizers will give you a good result. No. Only in a combination of minerals and organic matter will the soil receive all the necessary substances that will increase its fertility and create a favorable environment for bacteria.

If you're planning on planting fruit trees this spring, it's time to buy seedlings from a nursery and start planting trees. How to do it right - why you don’t need to dig deep holes for planting trees, trample the ground near the roots and dig it up every year afterwards, says Galina Kizima.

Planting trees: how to prepare the site

A year before planting a fruit tree, take a fancy to the place where you will plant a tree, and right on the virgin soil, start laying a compost pile in an area with a diameter of at least a meter and a height of up to 60–70 cm in the spring. tall (upright) marigolds. It's the best. But you can also plant the seeds of an ornamental or real sunflower, or seedlings of corn, or sow the seeds of annual "Merry Fellows" dahlias.

Just throw a bunch together with the plantings surrounding it in the fall to the mercy of fate. Fertilizers do not need to be applied, watering too. The frosts will break the stalks of the decorations, and they themselves will fall on the soil around the pile. Let them lie there. By next spring, the pile will settle down to the required 25-30 cm, and carefully spread everything that is lying around it around the pile.

How to plant trees

Tree planting is best done in spring (in the northern regions in May). Just straighten the roots of the seedling on the settled mound, slightly shortening the ends of the roots and cutting out the broken and diseased ones, drive in 3 stakes at an angle so that they can be tied around the seedling.

And fill the roots with soil to a height of about 15–20 cm. It is necessary to pour the soil gradually, spilling each layer with water from a watering can. Water will wash the soil down and fill all voids with it.

If you are used to tying seedlings to two stakes, then drive them not from the south and north of the seedling, as recommended in books (explanations on this are unintelligible), but drive the stakes in the direction of the prevailing winds in your area.

For example, in the North-West, western winds prevail, which means that stakes must be driven in from the west and east of the seedling. Then the strapping will keep the seedling from swinging in the wind.

In subsequent years, the hill should be expanded. To do this, it is enough to pour a compost heap around it every 2–3 years during the summer, and so that the perimeter of the tree has a neat appearance, each time pour peat or sand over the garbage and weeded weeds.

If you use peat, then remember that it acidifies the soil under the apple tree, and it prefers soil with a neutral reaction, so you must add ash to the peat at the rate of a half-liter jar for each bucket of peat.

The required feeding area for an apple or pear tree is approximately 4x4 sq. m, so gradually expand your landing pile to approximately these sizes.

Planted a tree: what's next?

Immediately after planting, be sure to shorten all branches and the central conductor by about a quarter of their length (this, of course, can be done before planting). The fact is that a plant develops correctly when there is a balance between its root system and the aerial part.

When planting a seedling, its root system is broken, the root sucking hairs are torn off, and the seedling does not supply moisture well to the top. And the leaves at the same time evaporate moisture as if nothing had happened, so the trunk dehydrates.

Sometimes, after planting, the following picture is observed: they planted a bush or a tree, the plant spread its leaves and suddenly for no reason dried up, despite abundant watering. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to shorten the aerial part of the plant when planting, that is, to shorten the central conductor and all branches by a quarter of their length. Then the balance between the weakened root system and the aerial part too large for it will be restored, and the seedling will take root well.

All summer you will put food waste and weeds on the roots of the seedling and lightly sprinkle them with soil (or sand, peat).


Fruit tree seedlings: clay talker or "Kornevin"?

There are many myths and misconceptions associated with planting fruit trees. Let's take a look at those that have especially taken root in popular books for gardeners.

All authors recommend that before planting fruit trees, dip the roots of the seedling in a clay mash. The question is why? The roots supposedly take root better. Is it so? As is well known, clay does not allow moisture to pass through, so the roots do not dry out, but they cannot take water from the soil either. What's good here? And where did this recommendation come from?

But where. In the old days, seedlings of fruit trees from the nursery were carried on horseback far and long. Therefore, so that the roots would not dry out along the way, they were dipped in a clay mash, wrapped in wet canvas and wrapped in sackcloth, tied with a rope and taken for a long time. But when the seedlings were brought to the place, they were necessarily placed in water for 2–3 hours before planting, so that the clay was washed off the roots and they were saturated with moisture.

Someone wrote off the first part from old books, but forgot to write about the second, and so this clay talker went from book to book.

So no talkers, but just the opposite: put the seedling before planting in the water for 2 hours and then immediately plant it. And even better if you add any root former to the water, for example "Kornevin". If there is no "Kornevin", it does not matter. Ordinary honey is an excellent rooter (one tablespoon per bucket of water is enough for a seedling, and one teaspoon per glass is enough for a cutting).

And never keep seedlings in water for a long time, they will lose a significant part of potassium, and this will have a bad effect on their survival and further growth.

Planting seedlings: why trample the ground?

There is another very common misconception. It is recommended to trample the soil around the seedling after planting. This is explained by the fact that the soil should fill the voids under the roots and stick to the roots from all sides. Moreover, it is recommended to start trampling down from the periphery, gradually approaching the trunk so as not to break off the roots.

Wherever you start to stomp, break off anyway if you have weights under 80 kg. Moist soil compacted by trampling does not allow air to pass through, and the roots will experience oxygen starvation, and the voids under the roots cannot be filled with any trampling.

In order for the soil to fill the voids and it sticks to the roots from all sides, it is necessary not to trample at all, but gradually pour the soil on top of the roots and immediately pour water from the watering can, pour it again, and water it again. Here the water will wash the soil into the voids, and will stick around all the roots with moist soil, and besides, it will leave free air access to the roots.

Fruit Tree Seedlings: Don't Plant Deep!

A big mistake is a deep planting of a seedling. This usually leads to a delay in the timing of the entry of the tree into fruiting. In addition, deep planting contributes to the appearance of abundant root shoots, especially for plums and cherries.

Trees should generally stand on their roots. Thick roots extending from the trunk are a conductive sewerage and plumbing system, so to speak. These roots do not absorb anything, but only conduct nutrient juices up and down. They are not afraid of frost and have the same frost resistance as the wood itself.

But the tender suction part of the root system, young thin roots can freeze slightly. They are usually located along the perimeter of the tree crown. That's why they need to be well taken care of. Feed, water, cover for the winter if you have snowless or too harsh winters.

In the northern regions, tree roots extend quite far beyond the crown perimeter. For what self-respecting tree will climb into groundwater, dense illuvial layers, or sand and clay?

Since the roots do not go deep into cold and barren soils, but prefer to spread out in breadth in a small arable soil layer, they are vulnerable to large sudden frosts after a thaw. Therefore, I recommend not to rake the leaves in autumn, but, on the contrary, to throw them around the trees. And so that the wind does not blow them away, sprinkle a little sand, peat or any soil on top. Do not be afraid of pests and pathogens wintering on leaves, they are no more and no less than during spring and autumn digging of tree trunks.

Trunk circles of trees: do not dig!

The recommended digging of trunk circles, and even twice a year, is also, by the way, a delusion. Never dig in the soil near the trunks, either in spring or autumn! Do not keep her under steam, that is, naked. The soil must be covered, otherwise it collapses.

The easiest way is to make lawn bentgrass shoot-bearing (low grass with roots that lie only at a depth of 2-3 cm, and therefore do not interfere with other plants, growing rapidly due to rooting shoots, giving such a dense turf that you can play football). But it must be mowed as soon as it grows 10 cm in height, until late autumn, otherwise everything will seed around. This is the most convenient lawn grass, it is not for nothing that golf courses are sown with it.

Whitewashing garden trees: when is it right?

Spring whitewashing of trees is truly a nationwide stupidity. Why is whitewashing fruit trees done? That's right, to protect the trunks, firstly, from frost holes, secondly, from solar spring burns, and thirdly, from rodents. Well, which of these three points is performed during spring whitewashing? That's right, nothing. Whitewashing, and even better - the correct shelter of tree trunks should be done in the fall!

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Planting seedlings is a very important and responsible stage in gardening.

After all, an improperly planted shrub or tree can take root for a long time, not grow and bear fruit poorly.

Therefore, before planting young seedlings, you need to study and take into account many important nuances.

Planting seedlings

Disembarkation time

Spring planting is most popular as it gives the plants maximum time to establish and grow before the winter cold. But in principle, trees and shrubs can be replanted at any time during dormancy, that is, after shedding foliage and before bud break. You can plant plants in autumn and even in winter, the latter option is the most gentle for the root system, but difficult for the gardener himself, so this type of planting is best left to specialists.

As such, most crops are best repotted in the spring, after the soil has thawed and before bud break, allowing the plant to establish itself more easily. Consider further how to choose planting materials. Only healthy and good seedlings can grow well, bloom and bear fruit. Therefore, when choosing them, you need to be very careful. It is better to buy seedlings in specialized nurseries in your native region so that the plants acclimatize well in the local climate. The seedlings themselves must be strong, healthy, without traces of diseases and pests.

Planting time for seedlings

Fruit tree seedlings should have strong roots, a trunk more than 2 centimeters thick and three or more skeletal branches at least 45 cm long. It is also important to inspect the trunk and bark for mechanical damage, rot, stains, color changes. In rose seedlings, in addition to healthy stems without a trace of aphids or other diseases, special attention should be paid to the root system, it must be strong and developed. If the plant is in a container, then the roots should sit firmly in an earthen coma, and when the rhizome is open, it should not dry out. The roots of seedlings should be healthy, without traces of rot, white on the cut.

Sapling storage

Often, young plants are purchased in advance, when it is too early to plant. And in this case, the seedlings must be protected from drying out for this time by wrapping the rhizomes with damp rags and setting them in a cool place, preventing the roots from drying out. When transporting seedlings, it is advisable to wrap the roots and tender branches with a soft cloth, and you need to transport the plants in the passenger compartment of a car or in a trailer, covering them with a dense tarpaulin.

Sapling storage

For quick rooting and good growth, seedlings need to be prepared for planting. To do this, the roots are cut to healthy tissue, and dried and too thin roots are completely removed. Also, a few hours before planting, the root system of seedlings should be watered abundantly if the culture grows in a container or immersed in water with an open rhizome. This will moisten the roots and improve survival. Seedlings from containers are planted along with the mother's earthen clod. Some ornamental shrubs and trees require substantial pruning before planting.

Planting seedlings of fruit trees

In order for a young plant to grow well, it is necessary not only to choose the right time for planting, but also to choose the right place for it. For example, planting apple seedlings is not recommended in areas with groundwater levels above 1 meter; in these cases, seedlings should be planted in specially raised areas. It is also not recommended to plant fruit trees, especially apple trees, in areas where such crops previously grew, since the soil retains pathogenic bacteria.

Consider the main stages of planting seedlings of fruit trees:

  1. For planting, planting pits are first prepared. Most trees need round pits with steep walls about 80 centimeters deep and a meter in diameter. Planting seedlings of apple and pear trees should be carried out in pits with a diameter of 125 centimeters, for cherries - 90-100, for cherries and plums 80.

In the process of digging a hole, the top layer of soil for one bayonet must be set aside, it will then be needed to fill the hole as the most fertile. The dug hole is sprinkled with this upper soil mixed with long-soluble fertilizers, it can be wood ash, potassium sulfate, manure, compost, superphosphate.

  1. The rest of the excavated soil is mixed with sand, turf and peat and used for further backfilling. Features of fertilizing the soil for planting are described in the video.
  2. It is easier to plant a tree together, one holds the seedling, and the other sprinkles the roots with earth.
  3. A properly prepared seedling is lowered into the planting hole, the roots are carefully straightened, making sure that the central root is placed vertically.
  4. Further, the entire space between the roots is covered with soil, the earth is carefully compacted.
  5. Most fruit trees need to be deepened into the ground so that the root collar is 6-7 centimeters above the surface.

Stages of planting seedlings

  1. In addition, this form will protect the tree from stagnant water and decay.
  2. It is advisable to make a roller around the trunk so that when watering, the water lingers for a short time in the hole and is completely absorbed by the root system. Features of planting fruit trees are described in the video.

After planting, the tree must be carefully watered from a watering can at the rate of 2-3 buckets per seedling. Next, the plant is tied to a support peg with a soft material.

Planting grape and rose seedlings

It is best to plant grapes in spring, but sometimes autumn planting is also carried out. For good development, it is very important to properly prepare the planting hole. Some experts recommend digging holes of a meter diameter, while others believe that 50-60 centimeters will be enough. A large depth of the pit, at least 60 cm, is necessary so that the roots do not suffer from frost, especially this aspect should be taken into account by residents of a cool climate. In addition, deep holes allow the plant to take root well and begin to bear fruit faster. It is necessary to plant grape seedlings in sunny places, dig holes in advance, during spring planting - from autumn, so that it has time to settle.

Features of planting seedlings

Consider how to plant grape seedlings:

  1. We dig a 50 cm hole.
  2. Next, the pits are covered with a 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone for drainage, a piece of plastic pipe with a diameter of 4-5 cm is vertically inserted into it, its upper edge should be 10-15 cm above the soil surface. Features of creating pits for grapes are described in the video.
  3. Before planting, the grape seedling should be rooted in a clay "talker" to maintain moisture, placed in a hole, spread the roots and rotated so that its buds are directed north and the root heel is south, as shown in the video.
  4. Next, black earth (10-15 cm), manure, fertilizers and earth are poured into the pit, these layers must be alternated until the pit is filled, then the soil is compacted so that the roots are not injured after shrinkage.
  5. After that, a small mound is poured around the trunk, and the seedling is watered abundantly with water. A video will help you get acquainted with the features of planting grapes in more detail.

Due to the whimsicalness of roses for the health of the bush and the lush long flowering, you need to carefully choose a place for planting. It should be a sunny place protected from wind and draft. Areas with a close occurrence of groundwater are also not suitable. You also need to remove the rose bed as much as possible from the garden and vegetable crops, since they are a constant source of diseases and pests that are detrimental to roses. It is impossible to plant rose seedlings in the places where these shrubs grew earlier, since pests and pathogens are stored in the soil for a long time, but there is a way out - this is a change of a 60-cm soil layer to a new and fertile soil.

Planting bush seedlings

And now consider the stages of planting rose seedlings:

  1. To plant roses, you need to dig holes with a diameter of about 50 centimeters, different varieties require different planting technologies.
  2. The distance between the bushes is also different, it must be calculated depending on the characteristics of the variety, height and spreading of the bush and its climbing.
  3. Planting pits need to be fertilized, but pure organic fertilizers are not suitable for roses, it is better to use ash, which, in addition to increasing soil fertility, also disinfects it and repels pests. You can also use humus to fertilize the soil for planting roses, which is mixed with the ground in equal amounts. The video will help you understand the features of fertilizing the planting pit before planting a rose.
  4. In the process of planting, a small mound is poured at the bottom of the pit, a seedling is placed on it, the roots are carefully straightened and carefully sprinkled with prepared soil, avoiding air gaps and cavities.
  5. Next, the earth is compacted, and each seedling is carefully watered under the root. A video will help you get acquainted with the process of planting rose seedlings in more detail.

Planting shrubs

Shrubs are planted in the same way as other crops. For example, planting currant seedlings is carried out in pits prepared in a few weeks with a diameter of 50-60 centimeters and a depth of 40 cm, as in the video. They are covered by 2/3 with fertile soil, then compost, superphosphates and ash are added there. It is best to plant shrubs, including currants, in the fall, but no later than two weeks before frost, so that the bushes have time to take root.

The cool period gives the plants time to recover, heal wounds and strengthen. Seedlings are placed in pits vertically or at an angle of 45 degrees, straighten the roots and sprinkle them with soil. Currants need to be deepened 7 cm below the root collar, as in the video. After planting, seedlings should be generously watered under the root.

Proper and high-quality planting is the key to a long and fruitful life of fruit trees, berry and ornamental bushes. It is from the correct choice of the landing site, high-quality planting pit, good fertilizer and proper immersion of the seedling that the rapid survival, rooting and further growth of the young plant depends.

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Planting fruit trees - what requirements should be taken into account for a rich harvest?

Every gardener knows that planting fruit trees is the most important initial stage in the development and growth of a crop in a new place. Fruiting, healthy growth and active vegetation, disease resistance are laid down from the moment of planting. After all, wrong actions can not only weaken plants, but also destroy them, which is why it is so important to know the rules of planting, tree placement patterns on the site, follow the instructions and take care in the future. So, how to plant trees so that there are no problems in the future?

Content:


Tree layouts in the garden

Before planting a tree in a country house or garden, you need to familiarize yourself with the correct arrangement of crops, which will allow them to develop well and produce a generous harvest. Trees that have a rounded and compacted shape (apple, pear, plum, apricot, cherry, cherry plum, quince, peach, etc.) should be placed in a certain way.

garden tree layout

To determine the exact distance between crops, it is necessary to take into account varietal characteristics and growth vigor. For example, vigorous apple trees - Delicious, Simirenko should be located at a fairly large distance in comparison with varieties that have an average growth force (Parmen winter gold).

Among pears that do not grow too fast - Williams, Kieffer will need more space. The cherry variety Lyubskaya can be called dwarf, when compared with Podbelskaya, therefore, they are arranged according to the 4 × 2 m scheme.

Choosing planting material

It is not news to anyone that seedlings should be bought only in trusted places, namely, in nurseries and horticulture. To purchase exactly the variety that you really need, otherwise you can buy a "pig in a poke".

Fruit seedlings have their own standards, and all the assurances in the store that “such plants can also be planted” are just manipulations by unscrupulous sellers. You can plant something, but what will grow is the question ...

One-year-old apple trees, as well as pears grafted onto a vigorous rootstock, should have height 1.3 m and stem thickness 12 mm, for medium height - 1.2 m and 11 mm, on undersized - 1.1 m and 10 mm. Second-class crops are usually smaller in height by 20-25 cm, and the stem has a thickness 7-8 mm.
Remember, high-quality seedlings of stone fruit trees cannot be less than 1.5 m in height , second-class plants - 1.2 m. Seedlings of pome trees are sold as annuals and biennials, stone fruits - only annuals, older ones do not belong to the standards and do not meet the necessary criteria for successful planting.

planting material of a nursery where you can buy fruit trees - in the photo

Before buying, inspect the standard part, which should be flat, without damage and various branches, and the presence of root growth near the stock is also not allowed. First-class seedlings of fruit and other species, which are grafted onto a seed stock, should have a length of the main roots of more than 28-30 cm, second-class - from 25.

In addition to good roots, young crops should have a crown consisting of three branches. In some cases, there may be less, or even absent. You should not buy seedlings that, according to visible signs, are clearly undergrown, damaged, have an underdeveloped root system.

In other cases, young fruit cuttings are added dropwise for preservation. For a couple of days - they are buried in loose soil just below the place of fusion, for winter storage - they are buried together with the root system and part of the stem (up to 1/3-1/2 of the length). Be sure to water so that the water gets to the depth of the roots.

Tree planting dates

The timing of planting fruit species differ, depending on the region of cultivation and the characteristics of the crop. So, in the southern regions, in the Kuban, in the Astrakhan and Rostov regions, it is possible to plant in spring and autumn, due to climatic features. Usually, they start the autumn landing from the 20th of October and spend it throughout November. In the spring - before the buds begin to swell and until the roots begin to grow.

spring planting of fruit trees - pictured

In the northern regions, in the Urals and Siberia, the central part of Russia, the Moscow region, the Leningrad, Voronezh, Vladimir, Lipetsk regions, in the Republic of Mari El, Chuvashia and Mordovia, plums, cherry plums, cherries, peaches, certain varieties of pears and apples are preferable in spring.

If the winter is snowless, the degree on the street is kept near zero and above, you can plant at this time (in January, February). From the experience of gardeners, it is known that planting in winter is considered better in comparison with spring. Therefore, if warm weather conditions are established in winter (which often happens in the south of the country) and the earth dries out a little, feel free to plant trees.

Landing by all rules

Immediately before planting, the trees must be inspected, the dead bark (if any) removed to living tissue, the wounds should be treated with garden pitch. Bad, non-living roots are easy to distinguish from healthy ones - their color is brown, with a grayish tint, almost black. Good roots will be white or slightly yellow or greenish white.

The basis of planting is the correct location of the root collar and the stability of the plant in the ground. Put the seedling in the hole, straighten all the roots, trying to point down, and start falling asleep with fertile soil. When 0.15-0.20 m is sprinkled, you need to trample the soil with your feet. Place your foot with your toe against the trunk of the tree and do the main pressure on the heel, but not too hard so as not to damage the roots. After falling asleep with loose soil without trampling.

watering fruit trees after planting - in the photo

The correct procedure is performed when the plant does not pull out of the soil when sipping, and the root collar is flush with the ground. When planting in a freshly dug hole, the root neck should be raised by 2-4 cm, which will then be level with the soil after some time.

Do not forget to tie the trees with pegs so that the plants are not damaged by strong gusts of wind. After planting, young tree seedlings are watered. If planting is done in the spring, it is necessary to prune the trees to eliminate the difference between the shortened roots and the above-ground part.

Gardeners every year ask the question - when is the best time to plant fruit trees and berry bushes, autumn or spring. Each season has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Consider in detail Why is it better to plant trees in autumn? when and how to land on your summer cottage.

Each plant has its own favorable time for transplanting and planting in a new place.

Let's figure it out what fruit trees can be planted in autumn and why.

When the entire crop is harvested from the garden, it's time to start planting seedlings. This is a crucial time, the main thing is to have time to plant plants on time.

The main advantage of autumn planting is the reasonable price of seedlings. It is more profitable to buy seedlings in autumn: a large selection of freshly dug seedlings, reasonable price, high-quality material is easy to distinguish.

Often plants are sold with leftover leaves, fresh roots (which indicate a healthy plant). In the fall, some gardeners often display the fruits inherent in this variety along with seedlings, which is very important for buyers.

Planting in the fall requires a minimum of care for seedlings in their summer cottage. Sometimes one watering is enough, then autumn weather and rains will create favorable conditions for seedlings.

The root system continues to grow, despite the fact that a dormant period has come. Root growth continues until the soil temperature drops to +4 degrees.

The main thing is to plant seedlings in time so that young roots can form before the onset of stable frosts. These new roots will begin to grow with the onset of spring, even 2-3 weeks earlier than the seedlings planted in the spring.

A significant plus of the autumn planting of trees and shrubs in the fall- the absence of other work in the garden and in the garden, in the spring there will be a lot of them.

In regions with warm winters, it is better to plant in the fall, the ground does not freeze to the depth of the roots, young trees are not threatened with freezing and hypothermia.

Cons of autumn planting

Ice, strong wind, snowfall and other weather conditions can break young seedlings.

Main disadvantages:
- Severe frosts can harm immature trees.
-- rodents can damage seedlings in late autumn and winter.
- young seedlings can simply be stolen during your absence in the country.

Video - Fruit Tree Compatibility

What trees and shrubs take root well when planted in the fall

From fruit trees, one can distinguish winter-hardy varieties of pears and apple trees.

They also do well:

Aronia, currant, raspberry, gooseberry, honeysuckle, walnut, chestnut, birch, coniferous trees.

Avoid planting non-hardy varieties of trees and shrubs.

Apple trees, pears, apricots, plums, peaches, cherries, cherries, almonds.

Do not plant seedlings in the southern regions that were grown in the northern regions, they will not tolerate frosts that are not characteristic of their homeland.

The optimal period for planting trees and shrubs is the end of September and the whole of October. In warm weather, it can last until mid-November (southern regions).

Every year the weather is changeable and planting dates in autumn depend largely on weather conditions.

Important to remember: a guideline for planting and transplanting seedlings is the dormant period of plants, which occurs after the end of leaf fall.

Video - When is it better to plant seedlings of fruit and berry trees

It happens that it was not possible to land in the fall. And you still have seedlings or purchased seedlings are not subject to autumn planting - what to do in this case?

Storage in a cool and damp room (basement).
- Digging into the ground.
- snowing

Digging into the ground - properly buried trees will be well preserved and endure the winter. Dig a groove with a depth and width of 30-40 cm in the direction from west to east. The north side of the groove is vertical, while the south side is inclined at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. Lay the seedlings at a distance of 15-25 cm from each other, the roots are directed to the north, and the crown to the south. Fill the groove with earth, trample down and pour plenty of water. Sprinkle with dry earth, sawdust or fallen leaves before frost.

snowing - Seedlings are kept outdoors. Well-packed young trees overwinter under a sufficient layer of snow, which does not allow a decrease in temperature for normal storage of plants.

Basement storage

At a low temperature of basements from 0 to 10 degrees, seedlings are perfectly stored until spring, if well-moistened roots are lowered into sand, peat or sawdust. Relative humidity in the basement should be 87-90%. During storage in the basement, it is necessary to water the seedlings every 10 days.

Video - How to save seedlings until spring

When buying seedlings, pay attention to their external condition. Saplings can be with unripened shoots if they are dug out before natural leaf fall.

Trees with numerous leaves may not be ripe and overdried, since the main moisture loss comes through the leaves.

Fruit trees are photophilous, so choose southern areas for planting seedlings. You can plant trees in steps - tall to the north, short to the south, and there will be enough light for everyone.

Also consider the distance to buildings and communications from trees, it should be at least 4.5 m. When planting, you must know the size of the crown and root system. The roots of mature trees can even cause damage to the foundation.

Combine the trees on the site correctly: cherries grow well next to apricots. Walnut oppresses all trees that grow next to it. Do not plant an apple tree and a peach together. For more information about the compatibility of fruit trees, see .