Materials for building a gazebo. Do-it-yourself country gazebo How to build a gazebo from a slab

A gazebo for a manor is like jewelry and an outfit for a woman. She can turn dirty Cinderella into a princess, but she can also show the true face of a self-confident socialite, in her soul - a kitchen fluff. We, figuratively speaking, will not go into the psychoanalysis of arrogant grandees, living in anticipation of a reason for the next hysteria. Any gazebo, like any woman, can be charming and attractive both in evening dress and in a work dressing gown. On one condition - she always behaves naturally and does not lose face. So we'll see how to make a gazebo with a face and a soul with our own hands. And a representative mistress, a stylish panther or an accommodating bustle is nicer to the owner - this is a matter of taste. The choice is wide, individual samples in the figure, but ambiguous.

Building a gazebo is not the most difficult thing. There are structures that can be built from improvised materials in a day, or even in a couple of hours. In the second half of the article, they will be described, as well as traditional technical solutions. However, technology does not give soul and face, like anatomy - moral and volitional qualities. In order not to be disappointed later in the chosen one at first sight, it is necessary, before discussing how to build a gazebo, to figure out what may lie behind such diversity. However, with one necessary exception in advance, on which both the aesthetics of the gazebo and the technology of its construction directly depend.

What about the barbecue?

There are countless options for creating a gazebo from a wide variety of materials, as we will see below. But a gazebo in Russia without barbecue with everything proper is nonsense. We can assume that a gazebo with a barbecue is a primordially Russian phenomenon. In other cultural groups, a gazebo with a hearth is considered to belong to the lower strata. The question arises: do you need a special gazebo for the barbecue?

Generally speaking, no. You can cook food in any gazebo, the point here is not in it, but in the chimney. It is undesirable to heat the brazier / barbecue in the gazebo in a black way, the soot will soon smoke it, and what comfort is there. You can use a mobile brazier with an elbow chimney, positioning it differently depending on the wind, but there remains a fire hazard from sparks flying out of the chimney.

Hence, a gazebo with a barbecue should be equipped with a chimney arranged in accordance with all the rules. How the chimney should be located on the building is shown in fig. The pipe is placed on the side of the building opposite to the direction of the prevailing winds. Consider only if you use the wind rose for your area that it shows where the wind is blowing from. Therefore, the pipe must be placed on the side of the shortest rose petals.

For an easy gazebo in the country, 3 more circumstances come into force:

• In accordance with the wind rose, you need to take the prevailing direction for the season of use, for example. in fig. above, winter winds are ignored;
• Since the wind backwater zone behaves in a complex way in an openwork, through-flowing structure, the mouth of the chimney should be raised by 0.5 m not above its border, but above the edge of the roof;
• If, according to the conditions of architecture / landscape design, the roof is asymmetrical, then its gentle slope should be made leeward, and the pipe should be placed there.

On the left pos. rice. on the right, based on this, the correct gazebo for the barbecue is shown. But the one on the right is unlikely to please the owners for a long time with its bright, fresh look.

What to do?

Without knowing the past, it is impossible to understand the present. The gazebo is older than the fire; to understand it, you need to get to the origins, and to get there, you have to go back to times immemorial.

Origin

The arbor originates from the summer huts of primitive tribes. On the one hand, summer for them was a time of relative prosperity - food wandered around and grew in abundance, they ate their fill and stored up for the winter. On the other hand, predators migrated along with the herbivores, for whom the cunning bipeds were, if not a food object, then certainly undesirable competitors. And even enemies, since people do not have their own wool and dress in other people's skins. It is better not to climb into the winter cave to them, they will beat them right at the entrance. But on the summer grounds you can get even for past grievances, having had enough of revenge and meat at once.

Based on this, the general concept of the gazebo is simple - a roof over your head and a full all-round view. These qualities came in handy with the beginning of urbanization: now they had to be more afraid of their own kind, it was painfully much in the settlements that seductive good for robbers was concentrated. Huts, which became guard posts, migrated to the surrounding hills. With a small but important improvement, a parapet appeared to protect the guards from arrows and stones. To prevent the attackers from setting fire, guard posts began to be built of stone - the hut turned into a rotunda, or belvedere; Initially, these words denoted a defensive sentinel structure.

Historians and archaeologists are still arguing that this is an egg, and that a chicken is a hut with a parapet or a tyn around the settlement. But psychologists have no doubts: the feeling of peace and tranquility that arises in the gazebo comes from its protective function. The goodness of the soul was immediately appreciated by both the nascent nobility and the common people. Yes, and there was a "golden age" serene only in legends: the excavation data unequivocally indicate that then they died mainly up to 50 and most often a violent death. In general, you should have been on the alert in your own backyard. So the guard rotunda appeared in private use; it was already a gazebo.

Evolution

The modern garden arbor originated from 3 beginnings: European, Middle Eastern (Egypt, Arabia, Persia) and Asian, from India to Japan. Nevertheless, its functionality and psychological significance remained unchanged: the gazebo is a place of solitude, romantic rendezvous, a calm discussion of affairs, from current economic affairs to the state system and fundamental questions of philosophy.

In Russia, pavilions as such were not known until Peter the Great. Even the word "gazebo" was not yet in the Russian language. The kings, some boyars and princes had gazebos built by foreign craftsmen, but they were then called attics. In a wooded, lowland country, the military value of the rotunda is small; more effective were notches - log fortifications at strategically important points. And the patrol service was excellently organized: remember, fairy-tale heroes are driving around all the time.

The vast expanses of the country, it would seem, themselves suggest abstract reflections. But before Peter, it was not up to that: either they fought off invasions, or they mastered the newly acquired terra incognita. Where is there to sit in thought, when the unknown land goes beyond the eye, God knows how much ...

Remarkable fact: the mass appearance of pavilions in Russia coincides with the end of the work of the Great Northern Expedition, which delineated the borders of the state; Peter the Great did not issue any formidable decrees on pavilions.

Perhaps this is just a coincidence, but the same story repeated itself in the young USA: as soon as America bought Louisiana from Napoleon and the pioneer detachments reached California, arbors began to build everything. And before that, they were far from being in every rich estate, although America did not occupy the most beautiful landscapes.

In Russia, the gazebo has acquired a new quality - it has become a place for a feast. Before the development of North America, Russia was the only vast state in the world located in the continental climate zone. Moderately continental, but all the same, exhausted by the crackling winter in a chicken hut (there is a lot of wood and it is cheap, but there is little mineral raw material, and it is expensive), I wanted to be free. Which was - more than enough. Therefore, a summer kitchen, a summer stove and a meal in the fresh air in Russia are an everyday phenomenon, and not a tribute to fashion or some kind of ritual.

The gazebo here came just right; before that, in case of bad weather, they managed with temporary sheds - booths. As a result of combining a summer kitchen with a dining room and a living room, a Russian seasonal penthouse appeared, so to speak - a country gazebo. The origin of the Romanesque garden pavilion, the Arab-Persian gazebo and the Japanese tea house are similar to it, but the Russian country gazebo is more democratic. In its foreign counterparts, food was only taken, and it was delivered to the table by servants. Functionally, the Central Asian teahouse is almost the same as the summerhouse, but it is a public place.

Degree of protection and degree of risk (financial)

Pavilions, as you know, are open and closed. The latter are often called in Mediterranean garden pavilions, because. the gazebo has a full meaning in a fairly warm climate. However, in Central and Northern Europe there is a kind of closed gazebo - a grill house; However, he appeared in a new time. This building is like a plague, only capital - log or stone.

Japan and China stretched across the latitude from the tropics to places with severe frosts and low winds. Therefore, Japanese houses for tea ceremonies and Chinese retreats can be built both open and closed. All peoples in general who use gazebos have their traditional closed gazebos.

A closed gazebo, as a rule, is supplied with a hearth. It can be all-weather heated. A closed gazebo formally differs from a country house only in a larger glazing area, but this difference is very vague. Only the garden pavilion, the tea house and the Chinese tower stand out clearly; each of them is the main significant element of landscape design: a park with alpine slides, paths, artificial streams and ponds, fountains, a collection of exotic plants and/or bonsai, etc. A little aside is a tea house - semantically it is equivalent to the rock garden in which it is located.

A closed gazebo is being built in the same way as a lightweight residential building. The simplifications and tricks of closed gazebos described in the second half of the article do not apply, they need to be built like a summer house. And, importantly, because the land under a closed gazebo is withdrawn from economic use, the presence of such a building in the property creates a tax base for real estate. With gazebos open in this regard, in many cases you can get out, and if the gazebo is temporary / portable collapsible (or formally, according to building rules, it looks like this), then you don’t need to get out - they are not taxed.

Architecture and design

At first glance, it seems that the gazebos are being built by anyone in what much. Some architects seriously argue that the very concept of "architecture" is not applicable to such a structure as a gazebo. However, it is still impossible to do without the architecture of the building, because. architectural solutions determine the choice of construction technologies, and it will not stand if it is built incorrectly.

You can still understand the architecture of the gazebos if you take a deeper look at the style: go from the lines of development of the appearance and layout. This, figuratively speaking, is something like a branch of an evolutionary tree, and style is already a ripe fruit on it. The lines of development of the architecture of pavilions are quite clearly traced 4: functionalism, primitivism, technogenic-urban (modern styles) and stylization for large architecture. On fig. examples for these lines are presented sequentially from top to bottom.

Functionalism

The motto of this line is simpler, cheaper, but not at the expense of quality, nothing superfluous and everything is at hand. The styles generated by functionalism are primarily European classical, constructivist (industrial) and Japanese traditional. The first has many varieties in accordance with the architectural traditions of different peoples: Victorian, Provencal, Italian, Andalusian, etc.

The simplicity of forms does not at all allow for a blunder approach; The adage “Everything ingenious is simple” is fully applicable to functionalism. The choice of material does not matter much, but you need to think over the construction well and, when starting work, clearly imagine what exactly you want to get in the end.

Primitivism

In the spirit of primitivism, the most original, “tricky” pavilions are created, from sheds, as if brought by a magical whirlwind from the blurred ocean of the Republic of Kiribati and halabud - the lust of a restless goblin, to buildings for which Baba Yaga and Kashchei the Immortal would gladly fight.

The styles generated by primitivism are innumerable, and their exact number is unknown. Is there an art critic-architect who can intelligibly explain whether there is a difference, and what, between rustic, country and rustic styles? And how do they relate to the style, for example, forest? The floristic style, which will be discussed in more detail later, and chalet-style gazebos are clearly distinguished in primitivism.

However, the primitivist styles have one thing in common: the material. Firstly, before it goes into action, it must undergo the minimum possible processing and not lose its natural essence. Secondly, the appearance of the primitivist arbor is completely determined by the initial choice of material. In this respect, primitivism is the antithesis of functionalism: if in the latter any material is suitable, as long as something suitable comes out of it, then in the former, the final appearance of the structure gradually emerges in the process of selecting material.

The latter circumstance entails an important consequence: to make a gazebo "kondovoy" is a matter of luck, a keen eye, imagination and artistic taste. It is possible to select the original fragments in advance, but it can take years. And the most spectacular primitivist arbors are obtained according to the principle: I walked, I saw, I dragged, I did. You can see anything: from a bunch of snags in a ravine to a pile of construction debris or a dump of empty bottles; it's just a matter of taste.

Modern

The ideology of all modern styles in art is constructive; the opposite is achieved by perverted aesthetes-self-haters, but nothing attractive and remarkable comes out of them. The concept, in general, is the same: to create harmony between man-made and natural environments; only the approaches to it are different.

It follows, firstly, that the use of natural materials in the most futuristic arbors is not forbidden. For example, the gazebos in Fig. sustained, counting from left to right, in the styles of modern, high-tech, minimalism and fachwerk. Only 2 styles can be recommended for arbors with big reservations, depending on the location of the structure: art deco and fusion. Lush decor with indispensable gilding or polished bronze of the first and sharp color contrasts of the second in an inappropriate natural environment can lose their voice.

The second is that you can take on a modern-looking gazebo only if you have the appropriate training in the field of art and architecture. There is a complete analogy with abstract painting: the layman, perhaps, will not figure out what exactly the artist wanted to say, but a work filled with meaning will immediately distinguish it from the random daub of a charlatan. Finally, these seemingly simple structures require high building professionalism, impeccable knowledge of the properties of materials and the ability to work with them.

Stylization

Styling for something is, generally speaking, a difficult matter, and you can only take it on after thoroughly studying all the subtleties of the prototype. Nevertheless, a conscientious amateur may well build a stylized gazebo, depending on what is taken as a model.

The easiest way (in aesthetic and semantic, not technological terms) is to style the gazebo as a Japanese house for a tea ceremony. The reason is obvious, because he himself is already a gazebo, and there are no strict canons for him. It is enough to choose a sample according to the forces and means. An indispensable feature of the tea house is 2 zones: the vestibule-veranda and the tea room itself, separated by lattice sliding doors - shoji. A stone plinth and porch for the tea house are desirable but not required, as are paper lanterns hanging from the projecting roof beams, see fig.

You just need to know that only the poorest built bamboo tea houses in the Land of the Rising Sun: bamboo in Japan is a waste material, and it could be chopped for nothing. But it is impossible to dissolve bamboo into measuring boards and bars, to connect bamboo parts into a quarter, into a spike and into a mustache, so more or less wealthy owners built tea houses from wood; Japan was also rich in commercial timber.

Styling under the Arab-Persian East is not much more difficult. Surprised? But the traditional Bedouin tent is also a gazebo. Pompous pavilions of caliphs, emirs and sultans appeared later and their appearance is much more diverse than in the common illustrations for "1001 Nights". Arab architects were not snobs and willingly borrowed from neighboring and conquered peoples everything that they found pleasing to the eye and useful.

Grateful materials for styling under the Muslim East - polycarbonate on a metal frame. It is enough to bend certain details (which is easily tolerated by both materials, see the figure), then - the appropriate decor, and you will get a polycarbonate gazebo, in which a well-born sheikh would not disdain to sip sherbet.

Italian-style pavilions are very complex and expensive, see next. rice. on right. They can also be sheathed with polycarbonate, but you can probably figure out what the openwork artistic forging, obligatory vases, statues and a floor made of natural polished stone are worth.

In pavilions "under China" more difficulties are added. First - no plastics, at least in appearance. The second is conventions. For example, red lacquered pillars and a parapet indicate that the owner has the dignity of a van, prince of the imperial house. But then the height of the pedestal, the number of steps of the porch (signs of elevation above mere mortals), the upward bending of the corners of the roof-bell (it also speaks of the degree of approach to Heaven), the number of tiers of the pagoda, the number and type of sculptures on the roof are also strictly regulated.

For example, in the gazebo in Fig. bottom left - suitable for the merchant-mandarin class. And the roof is either imperial (but then why is it not gilded?), or befitting the famous monastery. For such arrogance in the ancient Middle Kingdom they impaled, regardless of rank.

You can talk about the intricacies of styling for a very long time; Let's note 2 more points. First, the gazebo-chalet should be covered either with straw (which is expensive and fire hazardous at present), or with dark, matte material that imitates shingles or bark (similar to tiles made of tree bark). Secondly, the stylization of Russian antiquity is very plastic. A small-scale nobleman, for example, could build himself a princely porch with an onion roof, absolutely risking nothing.

More about styles

Classic

Perhaps the most popular styles of gazebo architecture are classical. "Styles" implies that established architectural canons are used; perhaps in keeping with local traditions, but necessarily tested and accepted by great architecture. From this point of view, an Empire or Baroque gazebo is also a classic.

The classic becomes a classic because it speaks about complex and subtle things in a simple way for the inexperienced. Therefore, classic gazebos are simple and elegant, see fig. The parapet of the one on the right, by the way, is made of pallets - pallets for piece cargo.

The second characteristic feature of classical structures is proven technology. Therefore, classic arbors are, as a rule, easier to build and cheaper than other styles comparable in aesthetic effect.

Finally, the classical proportions have been verified over the centuries not only for the optimum positive impact, but also for tolerance for deviations in a fairly wide range, depending on local conditions. Therefore, the construction of a classic-looking gazebo, which will be approved by a venerable architect, is quite within the power of an attentive amateur who has never heard of the golden ratio, the rules of diagonals and other such things. Looks like it's right.

Functional design

The second place, and in the budget segment - the first, is held by gazebos of a constructivist type. If only because a ready-made polycarbonate gazebo on the frame of their metal profile can be bought for 10 thousand rubles, this is at the current rate. Simplicity, accessibility and susceptibility to all kinds of improvements, decorations and stylization are related to constructivism with the classics. But their relative cheapness is no longer due to centuries of experience, but to the use of industrial technologies. Therefore, arbors of the functional-constructivist type are most often more profitable to take ready-made, especially since many of the proposed models of the zero cycle of construction work do not require at all. Then you can finish it in your own way: a fairly strong, but aesthetically bare factory product will demolish everything that the owner will like.

This difficult primitive...

Artists are considered by some to be perverted, perhaps because, upon closer examination, some of their concepts turn out to be inside out. Here, it would seem, what could be more primitive than a primitive? It's primitive because it's primitive. However, when creating primitivist arbors, there are no less conventions than in Chinese ones. In the complete absence of regulatory documentation sprinkled over generations of officials with a classical education. The result for our simple developers - the construction of a "primitive" gazebo at least requires a long search for suitable material, and even serious costs. And at the same time, look at both, no matter how a puncture comes out in terms of aesthetics.

What can be advised here? Firstly, a primitive is not necessarily something rough, chopped, chopped with a cleaver. Ornaments with fine detailing, as long as they fit into the overall picture, or the most elaborate (and very expensive if custom-made) thatched / thatched roof - this is a very good primitive, see fig. And an elegant, quite modern fabric tent, too. If it is made of natural canvas, but dacron or mylar is already a moot point.

Secondly, so that there is no reason for a dispute, and the taste of the creator is immediately visible, it is better to build a primitivist arbor from wood material, dead or alive. The latter gives a bunch of floral styles, which are a little lower, but for now let's take a look at a tree that is no longer growing.

Wooden arbors from non-dimensional, self-harvested wood are usually built in a rustic style. Translated into Russian, it means rustic. But how many peoples on Earth, so many traditions of rural architecture. The Slobozhansky style (substyle?) stands out more or less here, with a neat thatched roof; Slobozhansky arbors are often made wicker, see below.

Archaic architects agree that rustic and village are not the same thing. Like, rustic is Europe, and the village is already Russia. But not all specialists and not always can immediately distinguish an ancient Gallic hut from a dwelling of the Trypillian culture. Therefore, it would probably be more correct to go by time; more precisely, along the path of human development; then it turns out to give words of the same meaning a distinguishable aesthetic meaning, and this is exactly what is needed for construction.

So, we will consider a rustic gazebo, roughly speaking, something like a yeti lair - the logs are not debarked, the branches on the pillars are chopped off somehow, the roof is reed (there is no agriculture yet), the decor as such is zero, on the left in Fig. A rustic arbor befits an already thoughtful Neanderthal or Cro-Magnon man, i.e. similar to the permanent housing of the first free-air settlements of people who have already acquired fairly decent technological skills, in the middle in fig.

At this stage, pavilions of the Russian forest style are clearly distinguished; in general, this is a forester's hut, or, taking into account the richest Russian dense folklore, Baba Yaga. If there are a couple of large stumps suitable for chicken legs, on the right in fig. - we can assume that the main aesthetic task of creating a structure has been solved.

The Russian forest arbor has one attractive quality - if you have an innate artistic taste and knowledge of folk tradition, you can build it yourself by choosing a suitable dead wood. It will take a lot of time, labor too, but the costs will be minimal. An example is in the video below.

Video: construction of a gazebo in the Russian style

About primitive errors

Primitive styles, as already mentioned, are very strict on foreign elements and common design errors. For example, in fig. on the right - a gazebo from the category of neither this nor that. A flat floor is still nothing, it will darken - it will be in place. But here the roof of measured lumber aesthetics immediately knocks down on the spot. Here one of the features of the psychophysiology of vision, the so-called. top dominant. If we were to lay such a roof, then the logs would have to be debarked so that the roof was in tune with the main structure, or, better, a little darker. This will create a uterine-instinctive feeling of protection from an attack from above, otherwise it turns out the other way around.

Driftwood, deadwood, deadwood

Here it would be appropriate to say about the materials for forest arbors. Deadwood is unambiguously unsuitable - it is all riddled with mold hyphae. Kill them with biocides - the piece of wood will soon dry out and fall apart. It is enough for a completely healthy forest to lie down in a moist forest for a week after felling, so that it becomes unsuitable for sawing into industrial wood.

The best material for forest arbors is driftwood that has lain in the water for a long time. In addition to strength and durability, stained wood acquires a refined texture.

However, you can search for snags for a gazebo, so dead wood is most often used for their construction. In order for the gazebo to stand for a long time, the dead walls must be prepared for construction. See the video below for the processing of dead wood. If garden pruning waste is used, it must first be dried under a canopy for at least one warm season.

Video: building material underfoot, dead wood processing

The burner is especially good for buildings made of “wild wood” - dead wood left over from a forest fire. It has undergone natural-compulsory disinfection, it has a lot of different things, and the burning forest still needs to be cleared, so you can not be afraid of sanctions for unauthorized felling. However, when preparing the burner, you will have to get dirty pretty much - the charred layer must be cleaned off to an untouched solid wood.

Country

Pavilions up to and including the forest are primitive. The country arbor dates back to quite civilized times: it is built from measured commercial wood, the roofing pie can be from modern materials; if the roof is thatched, then it is equipped according to all the rules and neatly trimmed, see fig. The area under the gazebo can be paved, and the lawn around it can be carefully groomed. For primitive arbors, both - God forbid!

When looking at a country-style gazebo, the jaw does not drop and the smile from ear to ear does not stretch. But then - country can be introduced as an integral part of any classic or even modern style. Country music can also be constructivist. Who will say that a gazebo made entirely of boards is not country? There are only 2 requirements for this style: the widespread use of natural materials and the correspondence of the view to the surrounding landscape.

Floristics

Floral gazebos are both primitivist and not at the same time. Yes - because they are created from the most natural material - living, growing vegetation. No, because they can be grown in many of the classic styles.

Arbors from living plants, perhaps, the height of comfort and harmony. But, firstly, it will take years to create them, and in the process of using them, diligent care is necessary. Secondly, both require a range of professional skills, gardening, construction and design. Moreover, the initial mistake will affect after a long time, when it will be difficult, if not impossible, to correct it. Let's say a plant can start to put out fattening shoots - spinning tops. It is very difficult to make him stop this disgrace, and it is impossible to replace him with another one, because. the crown has already grown into the vault.

The easiest way to grow a floristic arbor in the form of a pavilion is to first build an ordinary openwork one (possibly of the most unpretentious kind) and let wild climbing plants grow on it: clematis (clematis), grapes, etc., on the left in fig. In case of failure, the vegetation can be peeled off, cut down and planted again. However, the supporting structure of the pavilion in the microclimate of a huge bush will eventually become unusable, and the settling plant cap will have to be reinforced from the inside, which will not add comfort or aesthetics to the pavilion.

The second option is a gazebo-pergola, next. pos. from left to right there. The same plants are allowed on a light metal frame of the desired configuration. Not feeling sufficient support, they form stronger whips. In addition, the creator (an experienced gardener-decorator) directs the young shoots in a certain way, interlacing them, so that in the end a strong plant tent or tunnel is obtained, and the primary frame becomes completely unnecessary.

Growing a pergola arbor requires many years of painstaking work by an experienced specialist. Already when choosing a place for it, selecting and planting plants, it is necessary to take into account many interrelated and, often, mutually exclusive factors, otherwise holes will appear in the pergola in a few years, or it will completely dry out. But a properly grown pergola can last for centuries, only gaining charm.

Even more art requires a living handicraft (grown from a bush) gazebo, third from the left, pos. Bushes grow without a frame, forming a common crown by pruning and bending down. In the Mediterranean, since ancient times, gardeners have been growing entire palaces in this way, but in temperate latitudes, handicraft arbors do not take root well, in the truest sense of the word.

Suitable breeds - myrtle, boxwood, laurel - grow slowly in the boreal climate, do not grow tall, and do not tolerate pruning. For native substitutes - willow, willow, willow, willow - the crown is not so neat. In the summer they require watering, which costs money, and it turns out to be damp in the gazebo. In addition, these species of our bushes do not tolerate dense planting and cramped branches: an artisanal willow arbor lives 10-15 years, of which 5-7 is spent on its formation.

One of the pinnacles of gardening art is the banyan gazebo, on the right in fig. It is named after a variety of ficus that can grow from one seed into a whole grove, but in this case, gardeners go “from the opposite”. Saplings of lilac, mountain ash, hawthorn or wild fruit trees are planted along the contour of the future gazebo. The first 3-4 seasons are shaded with gauze stretched on racks and fed with nitrogen with trace elements, but they are kept starving on phosphorus and potassium. The seedlings are stretched from this, but their stems remain quite thin and flexible. When they grow enough (taking into account future secondary growth), the tops in the spring, at the beginning of intensive sap flow, bend down to each other and splice by grafting. After another 2-3 seasons, careful pruning begins, and as a result, a tree with one crown on several trunks is obtained.

About bad taste

To complete the aesthetic part and proceed to the technological one, we emphasize once again that fine taste when creating an arbor is necessary like air. Otherwise, it may turn out either something, when looking at which the thought involuntarily arises: “This is how much coke it was necessary to sniff ...” (on the left in the figure), or something like a pagoda on a log cabin, on the left there. Which does not hurt the eye so much, but in essence it comes out like d'Artagnan with an infantry broadsword. Simply put, vulgar.

What to do?

The best is considered a gazebo made of wood. In addition to the natural appearance, accessibility and ease of processing, its construction in almost any style is within the power of a completely inexperienced person. For example, see the video below, a wooden gazebo can be built alone in a day. It will take about 3-4 thousand rubles of materials for it, and the most common everyday tool is needed. At the same time, a gazebo can be built from wood, at the sight of which a venerable connoisseur will gasp and freeze in admiration. Therefore, most of the further material will concern mainly wooden arbors.

Video: building a wooden gazebo alone in a day

Brick-stone technology is used, as a rule, for the construction of closed capital arbors. About its features in relation to this type of structures, see below, as well as about the completely unusual use of some ordinary mineral building material, which allows you to get a stunning aesthetic effect.

Most metal arbors go on sale ready-made. They dominate in 2 price segments: budget (welded from metal profiles) and exclusive (cast or forged). An important advantage of welded metal gazebos is that they can be installed directly on the ground anywhere, i.e. are not taxable property. And a ready-made welded gazebo relatively inexpensively gives a strong, durable frame - the basis for independent experiments.

Framed gazebos from the profile are most often covered with polycarbonate. This material does not combine very well with wood, but in itself it gives a lot of scope for both the attempts of a novice DIYer and the frills of an experienced designer. Polycarbonate is acceptable in almost all architectural styles and a gazebo from it can fit into any landscape, see fig. However, .

Other materials are widely used for gazebos. Sometimes completely unusual or well-known, but applied in an unconventional way, see below.

About the roof

In addition to other roofing materials, many people prefer to lay the roof of the gazebo with flexible shingles. This material is inexpensive, sufficiently resistant, well protects the wooden roof crossbar from decay. The technology of its installation is elementary and does not require building qualifications. By cutting pieces randomly, you can get a roof that will be difficult to distinguish from an old shingle next season. And you can, on the contrary, cut the pieces in shape and hang from the edges of the roof with scallops. A bituminous tiled roof is lighter than others and does not create an increased fire hazard. In general, having decided to build a gazebo, it is worth thinking carefully about a roof made of flexible tiles.

How to do?

1. We are looking for a suitable place;
2. We choose the style of the gazebo and its design, including the foundation;
3. We make markup on the spot;
4. We build the foundation, if necessary, see below;
5. We make a support frame;
6. We install (build) load-bearing pillars;
7. We mount the crossbar (bearing structure) of the roof;
8. we lay the floor;
9. we make and mount the side railing;
10. laying the roof.

This sequence of work is developed based on the features of the construction mechanics of the gazebo. The main one is the load mainly from the roof, due to climatic influences, the weight of the structure itself is small and it is quite elastic or, conversely, rigid. From this follow the following conclusions:

• The design of the gazebo, if possible, should be chosen allowing installation without a foundation or directly on the ground, or on a sand and gravel cushion, because. the light weight of the structure will not help the foundation to counteract the heaving of the soil.
• The optimal type of foundation for the gazebo will be columnar with a supporting frame - a grillage; foundation pillars, because non-residential structure, for reasons of economy, it should be poured into fixed formwork from asbestos-cement pipes.
• A brick gazebo should be built on a foundation with reinforced pillars (see below), and the partitions between the supporting pillars of the building should only take lateral loads.
• The strip foundation of normal deepening is used for especially responsible ones, i.e. expensive, designs, also see below.

Where should the gazebo be?

The gazebo should be placed higher. Literally centimeters play a role. The author of this article once did an experiment at his dacha: he took and laid a 3-meter board on the ground. The difference in the heights of the ends was not noticeable to the eye; the hydraulic level on the stand showed only 6 cm. In the third summer (no one touched or moved the board), mold appeared at the lower end. Turned it over - rotted from the underside. The upper edge darkened, but remained intact and strong. Then the board was rotated 180 degrees horizontally. A year later, it turned out that the former lower, and now the upper, end has dried up, and the former has decayed. Hence the conclusion: having decided on the outlook, measure the chosen site with a hose hydraulic level and build a gazebo where at least a tiny tubercle can be traced.

With foundation or without?

Without a foundation, you can definitely put metal welded gazebos. If the soil at the installation site is very heaving or there are strong winds, then a columnar foundation is made of asbestos-cement pipes. Foundations of small depth should not be used: from a roll, plus strong negative (tearing) wind loads on the roof relative to weight, the welds of the structure may crack.

As for arbors made of forged metal (see fig.) or cast, which are an indispensable element of some types of park landscapes (English, for example), they are very expensive, “playing” with the ground, deteriorate or lean, which also reduces there is no aesthetics, therefore, just for them, a normal strip foundation is needed, not less than 0.7 m deeper than the estimated depth of freezing, deepening. Fasteners for the pillars of the gazebo are immured in the tape when it is poured. Inside the tape, the soil is selected to a non-porous layer or, if one is not found, to the estimated freezing depth. The pit, not reaching 0.5 m to the upper edge of the tape, is covered with expanded clay or large gravel, then paved with tiles, stone, etc., or a screed is formed over the sand and gravel cushion and the floor is laid.

A wooden gazebo as a building structure is quite elastic and plastic, its weight is small, and it needs a foundation with a plinth, in fact, only to protect it from decay. There are types of wooden arbors, for example. wicker (see below), which cannot be placed on the foundation in principle. Therefore, on heavily heaving soils, wooden arbors are placed on a lightweight columnar foundation, as well as welded ones. On weakly or medium heaving, instead of pillars, shallow ready-made reinforced concrete monoliths can be placed; the depth of penetration is calculated as for a strip foundation of small depth.

Under a brick gazebo, a columnar brick foundation is needed. The lightweight one described above has low bearing capacity and traction for such a heavy structure. A tape of normal penetration will be prohibitive, for a gazebo, roads and laborious, and a tape of shallow depth will not be able to counteract ground movements, because. the weight of the building for this is insufficient.

Foundation pillars are laid in 2 bricks (solid single ceramic! Moisture will ruin others!) According to a three-row dressing scheme, see below. A grillage made of reinforced concrete beams is laid on the pillars, you can make it yourself. The protrusion of the uppermost, along the slope of the place, pillar above the ground surface - from 300 mm. The design of the basement is a matter of taste, but the basement must be ventilated; it is covered with expanded clay.

Another option

The presence of a foundation, as mentioned above, automatically makes the gazebo real estate with all that it implies. Not very pleasant, even if prepared for such a turn of affairs in advance. And here an interesting option is visible - a collapsible log gazebo-cradle. The appearance and drawings of a corrupt structure of this kind are shown in the figure, but it is quite repeatable on its own. The fact is that the gazebo-cradle can be placed not on poles, but on any stones-beds. Which are not the foundation, are not subject to legalization (see below) and taxation.

Logs can be taken unrounded and unrooted. Make flooring, benches and countertops from slabs. Cover the roof with flexible shingles. It remains to putty holes with fastener heads with sawdust from used wood, thickly mixed with liquid nails - and an excellent forest-style primitive is ready. Beds from boulders picked up somewhere will only add naturalness.

markup

The marking of the place for a rectangular arbor is done as for the foundation for the house: the contour is from the uppermost corner, they are checked with diagonals, etc. Not that - the arbor is multifaceted, ergonomics intervenes here.

First, the company should be comfortable sitting in a circle. Secondly, once you need to lie down. Just to relax, dream, or, so to speak, with romantic overtones is a matter of chance, but in any case, you need a rookery at least 2 m long. Let's not be hypocrites: in the building canons of all times and peoples, even the completely sanctimonious European Middle Ages, one of the gazebos indicate meetings of an intimate nature. And here, if, for example, a 6-sided gazebo is made equilateral, the dimensions come into conflict: either the lounger of the required length does not work, or it is inconvenient to stretch to the middle of the table. Therefore, the sides of a multifaceted gazebo should not be made equal, but so that this is not noticeable. Let us explain on the example of a 6-coal arbor; the scheme of its markup nor fig. on right:

1. From the center of the site o with the help of a peg and a cord we beat off a circle with a radius of 1.67 m;
2. On the side opposite the entrance, set aside the length of the bed I, equal to 2 m;
3. Where there will be an entrance, parallel to the bed, we postpone the entrance opening II at 1.35 m;
4. We check the parallelism of the bed and the threshold with diagonals, for an isosceles trapezoid they are also equal to each other;
5. The segments ac and df, according to the rules of school geometry, are divided in half;
6. From the midpoints of ac and df, we also restore perpendiculars according to school rules, so we will divide the arcs abc and def in half;
7. Using the arc tangents of half the angles α1, α2 and α3, we find integer angles and check the markup: the sum of α1+α2+α3 must be equal to 360 degrees;
8. We determine the removal of the center of the roof o1 forward l, and along the lines o1a, o1b, o1c, o1d, o1e and o1f - the length of the projections of the rafter legs;
9. Additionally, we check the markup: the conditions o1a = o1f, o1b = o1e and o1c = o1d must be met.

Construction techniques

It is indicated above that the main load on the structure of the gazebo is from the roof. It is largely tangent, i.e. the roof, as it were, is trying to push the legs of the gazebo. Based on this, it is necessary to apply construction methods.

How could it be sooner?

Let's start simple. Very effective, but quite resistant, quite durable and, most importantly, absolutely free simple arbor turns out to be woven from rods, see fig.

Stakes, as for rustic wattle, are driven into the ground by at least 35 cm. The most durable are larch, but other species that are not accepted and give shoots will also go. However, for an arbor, unlike wattle, this is not necessary: ​​by stabbing willow stakes into the moist ground, you can get a phyto-arbor. Another option is an ordinary wooden frame (see below) sheathed with wattle fascines, then the microclimate in the gazebo will be drier.

You can weave both with a rope and a pigtail, see fig. on right. Other ways of weaving are shown in fig. below. By the way, a gazebo near a large body of water (not necessarily the sea, it can be fresh) or rivers can be braided with unusable ropes; in this case it will be quite appropriate.

Weaving is a rather laborious process, although the material is free. Couldn't it be even easier? I mean, faster. Can. The simplest gazebo can be made in just an hour. Her scheme is next. rice. The principle of the device is a prestressed structure, so the material of the ribs can be quite weak, even if the same raw willow stakes. They will let little shoots inside, it is dark there, so there will not be much trouble with pruning.

The brazier pipe will perfectly come out into the upper opening; in bad weather, it can be closed with a lid with swivel L-shaped stops. The ring tightening the opening is bent from 6 mm wire rod by 1.5 or incomplete 2 turns, like a key ring. The tops of the stakes with pre-drilled holes are strung on a ring, like the ears of keys, and then their lower ends are dug into the ground by a bayonet and a half, trampling down the earth being filled back.

Another option for such a gazebo is from pipes. But not steel, but propylene plumbing. They are practically eternal. The lower ends of the pipes are put on pieces of reinforcing bars driven into the ground. This design is quite maintainable: the ribs can be removed from the pins one at a time to replace the latter. If the cover of the gazebo is made of fabric, it can be seasonal and stored in a pantry in a compact package for the winter. If you stretch a thin wire or a thick fishing line between the ribs, and put climbing plants along the frame, you get a Provence-style floral gazebo. Such a frame will go under polycarbonate. Reinforced with a hard working sheathing, the gazebo will acquire monstrous strength.

brick

Recall that the proportion of lateral loads on the structure of the gazebo is greater than in a capital building of the same size. The gazebo is not a fence, because the roof does not press on it. At the gazebo under the roof, the legs strive to part, and it is not necessary to make the walls solid and massive enough to hold tangential loads, after all, it is not a casemate. A brick gazebo should be built with these circumstances in mind.

Therefore, firstly, it is better to lay a gazebo from one and a half (88 mm thick) bricks. Beds of ceramic full-bodied one-and-a-half bricks are made with holes, which makes the masonry stronger to shear stresses. And bricks and mortar on the same wall will take less; this will speed up and reduce the cost of work.

Secondly, part of the side loads should be taken over by the parapet, so the width of the spans between the pillars should be a multiple of 262 mm (250 brick + 12 seam). Next, we put the pillars in one and a half bricks with a three-row dressing. The scheme of three-row masonry for pillars of 1.5 and 2 bricks (foundation) is shown in fig. Finally, the height of a row of one-and-a-half bricks is exactly 100 mm (88 + 12 per joint), which makes it easier to calculate and match with structural elements designed in the metric system.

The spans are placed in a half-brick with a chain dressing, i.e. the first row starts with a full-sized brick, the 2nd - with a quarter (quarter), the 3rd - with a half, the 4th - with a three-quarter, then everything repeats. If there is a hunt and money is not a pity, parapets can be laid in brick. Then the tapes of the spoon rows are laid with chain dressing in a mirror image in order to withstand the displacement of the transverse seams by 1/4 of the brick, and every 4 spoon rows are covered with a tightening bonder.

And yet, the lintels of the openings. If they are reinforced concrete, then their height is 1/20 of the width of the opening, the width is from 180 mm and the laying in ceramic brickwork is not less than 80 mm. Reinforcement scheme - according to SNiP according to the size of the jumper. Suddenly, the gazebo is aerated concrete, then the laying is obtained by more than half the thickness of the column (the material is weak). Consequently, 2 corner lintels at the same level will not fit into a pole, and the roof must rest on a solid load-bearing belt, concrete or wood.

Wooden

Take a look at fig. There is a frame of a wooden arbor, as they are usually built. Lower support belt and pillars - beam 100x100; the rest is a board 100x40. Pavilions of this design, in general, are worth it. But they can be strengthened by saving at the same time a certain amount of material at the expense of a little more labor and skill.

The first is the bottom corners. Let's remember again - the legs of the gazebo want to part, and the struts are not the best solution here. If a wooden gazebo is multifaceted, then they will not be of any use at all. It is better to assemble the lower corners, as shown in fig. left. Diagonal (radius for multifaceted arbors) screeds are made from the same board 40x100. If the flooring is made of tongue-and-groove forty, then you can do without a floor log.

The next important node is the hipped roof. Usually its top is made, as shown in pos. 1 next rice. Sometimes (and under a soft roof - necessarily) they are reinforced with crossbar overlays, pos. 2, but this is also not optimal. Why? Because in both cases, a support rack is needed. And under it - intersecting support beams. And their crosshairs are weakened by a tie-in by a quarter, and just there there is a large concentrated load from that same rack.

It will be best to keep the load on the roof of the gazebo, working like a vault, below in the same fig. The role of the keystone will be played by the boss, and the masonry belts adjacent to it will be slats from 40x40 to 60x60. Inserting parts into each other is not required, that's what the vault is for. Such a solution will also add space to the gazebo, but is applicable only in the case of a hard roof; under the soft need a solid crate.

logs

A separate case from the point of view of construction mechanics is a gazebo made of logs. The original log house in the corner, pos. And in fig. However, the traditional Russian frame, unfortunately, is not designed for large openings in the walls, without which the gazebo is a hut. This is also an option, but not to everyone's taste.

Much stronger is a log house in an oblique spike, pos. B and C. For its correct assembly, a template (pos. D) is required, the dimensional module of which is equal to 1/8 of the log diameter, pos. G. Logs, of course, are needed rounded in size. In this case, the corners of the log house can be covered with carved wooden overlays, which is quite consistent with the rustic style. For the forest, overlays from 3/4 logs are suitable; however, in this case, small windows will just fit in, so you can cut into a corner.

Something special

Pavilions, indeed, from what they just do not. But structures made from old car tires, skeletons of rattlesnakes (in Texas, Arizona, Utah, Nevada, such are not uncommon), etc. we will not touch. We will see what is easier and more affordable in our area.

The most common of the unusual are arbors made of bottles. Most often, plastic (PET) is used: the material is junk, it is easy to work with it. How to ennoble a bottle arbor is a matter of taste of the owner. You can cut some of the vessels into sheets for roofing, pick them up by color, lay out some of them, as on the left in Fig. And you can build a greenhouse from bottles, only with windows, surround it with a fence from the same bottles and cover it with straw, right there. You can also come up with something else, just to look. The aesthetics of bottle buildings has not yet developed, there is complete freedom of fantasy.

Pavilions made of glass bottles are less common: the material costs money, and the homeless pick it up faster than the drinkers throw it away. And to drink so much yourself, it will not be up to the gazebo. And the work is quite laborious: the vessels on the cement-sand mortar are laid in rows with their necks inside.

If you already have a desire to tinker with cement, then without bottles you can build an arbor such that you will swing from it. With a slide, lake, waterfall, etc., see fig. on right. The technology is simple: from reinforcing bars driven into the ground or walled up in the foundation, the frame is bent approximately in shape and covered with a chain-link mesh. Then, a very dry mortar is thrown in lumps, as for a floor screed, starting from the bottom, and the structure is formed with hands. To imitate wild stone, plasticizers and pigment are added, as in production.

About legalization

The matter in the legislation goes to that for any real estate it is necessary to pay. In relation to gazebos, this, in general, is not scary: at the most reckless rates, their cadastral value turns out to be much more than the initial costs. But in order to register the existing property in the property, it must be legalized.

The legalization procedure itself is a separate issue. But the owners of pavilions on the foundation are also lucky here: they (the pavilions, not the owners) are not housing, not outbuildings, communications are not connected to them. Whoever finds it possible to show the inspector for inspection a temporary lighting hut - he, as they say, is like that himself, and he is dear to him there.

Therefore, when legalizing gazebos, MVK or similar municipal services do not, as a rule, require precise plans, calculations, specifications, explications, etc. In most cases, it turns out to be enough to present a draft design of an arbor like that shown in fig. Just keep in mind that the usable area (and the tax is calculated on it) is calculated along the contour. That is, if, say, the back of a bench dug into the ground protrudes beyond the projection of the roof, then this strip will also be added. But how, a penny saves a ruble.

What a dacha without a gazebo in our time, without this building already, you can’t imagine how you can live in a dacha))). Over the past few years, the construction of gazebos in summer cottages has become fashionable and massive, a sort of fever even to say. The construction market offers a great variety of different types of gazebos, from budget to premium class. Gazebos are made from a variety of materials: metal, wood, plastic, brick, concrete, glass, in general, materials are all known to man. Prices for market specimens are sometimes not particularly pleasing to the average layman. How to be in this situation for a simple person from the outback, who also wants to have a gazebo on his site, made according to the latest dacha fashion. Of course, as always, you need to look for a rational solution to the current problem, and use your brains. Our people have always been famous for their ingenuity and ability to find a rational solution in any, even the most difficult situation. Fortunately, he was a thrifty person and he had all the necessary material for construction. I used “slab” as the main building material - this is such a board, namely the part of a round log that remains after sawing into boards. This type of material has proven itself recently among summer residents, rural residents and designers of suburban housing. The material is simple and not expensive, as it is a waste product. These boards are also good because they have bark, and when creating a building, it takes on a kind of fabulous look, due to its texture. If you carefully understand everything, then there is nothing complicated in building a gazebo, you just need to take it and do it, and there is nothing to be afraid of. The basis is made up of four logs on which the entire structure is tied: the floor, the roof, the sheathing of the gazebo. And so now let's take a closer look at how he built his gazebo, and what he needed for this.

Material: logs, slab, slate, roofing iron, brick.

Instruments: hacksaw, shovel, electric planer, axe, hammer, metal shears.

And so, first of all, he provided his drawings, according to which he performed work on the construction of the gazebo.

Then he prepares the material, passing it from one side with an electric planer, digs in the load-bearing logs, in the amount of 4 pieces, proceeds to laying the floors, sheathing the walls with slabs and is engaged in roofing work. Here is the gazebo built, it looks like from some kind of fairy tale. And most importantly, the author invested a minimum of money to create such a wonderful structure, which makes this gazebo doubly beautiful. Source Become the author of the site, publish your own articles, descriptions of homemade products with payment for the text. Read more here.

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If, after the completion of the construction of a country house, you have a lot of materials left that you have nowhere to put, and it’s a pity to throw them away, build a gazebo out of them. The main building material will be slab. A gazebo from a slab with the right approach will look no worse than its counterparts from a wooden bar and other materials, and at a price it will come out much cheaper.

Scheme of the arrangement of the gazebo from the slab: 1 - logs of the base; 2 - wall rack; 3 - ceiling beams; 4 - roof rack; 5 - roof beams; 6 - crate; 7 - sand foundation; 8 - brick columns; 9 - sheathing from croaker; 10 - floor boards; 11 - threshold on the bars.

Building a gazebo with your own hands is a completely feasible task for everyone who knows how to work with elementary carpentry and construction tools.

First of all, you need to choose a suitable place for the construction of the gazebo and prepare the building site accordingly.

Having passed the most important and somewhat painstaking stage of the foundation, you need to think over the design of the frame and prepare the material for construction. If you want the gazebo to be closed, build walls, and if you like more airy and open structures, make low fences.

The final stage in the construction of the gazebo is the formation of the roof, for which you can use a huge variety of different materials - from polycarbonate and tiles to wooden shingles and reeds. The interior decoration of a homemade gazebo should stylistically resonate with the chosen architectural solution. That is why it is best to use natural materials (for example, lining) for wall decoration.

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First of all, you should prepare the necessary tools, such as:

chainsaw; hacksaw; electric planer; nails; electric jigsaw; drill; circular machine; leveling device; screwdriver; plumb bob (you can save money and make it yourself from a nylon rope with a weight).

Before starting construction or already in the process, all structural elements of the garden gazebo must be treated with protective antiseptic agents. This will protect the material from destructive external influences, for example, rotting, moisture and insects.

Before construction, a design drawing is prepared, in which all its dimensions will be indicated. Next, the foundation is being built, a special light foundation.

Building the foundation of a garden gazebo is similar to building the foundation of a house, only on a smaller scale. During the construction of the foundation, the main supporting structures are installed. The most reliable option is stone, concrete or wooden poles that are fixed at the base.

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Depending on the purpose for which the gazebo is being built - for family tea parties, noisy feasts, secluded relaxation or romantic candlelight dinners, this building is built either in close proximity to the house or hides in some remote corner of the garden. It is important that the gazebo fits organically into the landscape of the site and looks good with the main house. This is especially important if a place was chosen for the construction of the gazebo in an open area, located close enough to the main building.

The design, lost in the depths of the garden, can perfectly exist without being tied to the house - it is important here that it be combined with the natural environment - lawn, ponds, shrubs, trees. Make sure that a beautiful and pleasant view opens from the gazebo - it can be a flower bed, a pond, a group of trees, a path deep into a meadow or forest adjacent to the site.

If the gazebo, built in the thick of the garden, is protected from the sun, wind and precipitation by trees, then another design option, located in an open area, requires a more thoughtful and thorough approach. Here it is necessary to think about the fact that on the leeward side there is a wall of the house, a fence or planting in the form of a bush, there are paths leading to the gazebo, and its entrance would be oriented in such a way that it would not be necessary to go around the building for a long time before entering it get in.

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Despite a fairly large number of different solutions for arranging a gazebo in a personal plot or summer cottage, the construction of a foundation-foundation for such a building is the most important point. For such small structures, simplified types of foundations are used, which are easily erected by oneself - pile, columnar, tape, less often - monolithic.

First you need to prepare 4 small pits with a depth of no more than 30 cm. Iron or wooden posts are inserted into them, after which the pits are filled up and rammed with earth, rubble, construction debris, etc.

After that, you can proceed directly to work with the slab. Choose the smoothest, peel them from the bark, align the edges and plan. The result is a good material for sheathing.

The slab is nailed to the columns. After that, using an electric jigsaw, you need to cut out the ovals of open openings. Railings are made from several boards.

The floor in the gazebo is made of even and thin planks of slab.

The boards are stacked with a shield. Making such a shield is quite simple. On a flat surface, you need to put 2 guide boards, on them - 2 slab boards with an uneven surface up.

Attach them to each other with nails. After that, the third, fourth, etc. are nailed.

After a sufficient width of the shield has been reached, the places where the base is laid on the logs must be leveled with an ax. Next, the shield is turned face up, cleaned with a planer and fixed in the gazebo. The floor and walls can be painted or finished to your liking.

If you want to build a stylish gazebo quickly and inexpensively, use slabs for this - the cheapest lumber. Thus, you can not only equip a place of rest, but also decorate the site.

The only thing is that you should first familiarize yourself with all the intricacies of construction, which I will share below. Arbors from slabs look original and do not require large financial costs for construction . A slab, unlike an unedged board, has a flat surface (saw cut) on only one side. There is a wane on the sides and back. Therefore, a slab, also known as a slab, is even cheaper than an unedged board.

At the same time, the wane protects the tree from moisture. The structure of it has a slightly untidy rustic antique appearance. This is its highlight. The slab is a sidewall of a log. Of course, you can use a gazebo from a slab only if the site is decorated in a rustic style.

It will perfectly harmonize with a log house in the old Russian style. If the house in the country house is decorated with balustrades, and the site is decorated with sculptures, such a gazebo will be out of place. . The supporting function of the structure is performed by racks made of boards with a thickness of at least 30-40 mm. To stiffen the structure, the same boards are used for the lower and upper strapping, which connects the racks.

The slab is used for sheathing the gazebo, i.e., exclusively as a facing material, therefore it does not perform a load-bearing function. The slab is used only for sheathing the structure. The roof, in principle, can be any single-slope, gable or multi-slope.

However, in a rustic style, it is better to make it gable - this is a classic option for wooden huts, which will imitate the structure. The roof structure is standard - reciprocal rafter legs form triangular truss trusses. To add rigidity, we will use a ridge run that will connect the trusses. Arbor scheme from a slab Having decided on all the nuances of the design, create its project on paper.

It can be done in the form of a simple drawing or sketch. It is only important to display all the details and indicate the dimensions. Dimensions are selected taking into account the fact that at least 1-1.5 square meters is required for one vacationer. In addition, it is necessary to provide space for furniture.

If the gazebo will have a barbecue and a firewood shed, it will also require at least one or two additional square meters. Building a gazebo from pine boards and slabs A step-by-step plan for building a gazebo from a slab looks like this: Gazebo construction plan Materials For the construction of the gazebo you will need the following materials: The slab itself; Pine boards 100x30-40 mm thick; Logs with a diameter of at least 100 mm; Fire-retardant impregnation; Bituminous mastic and roofing material; Roofing. To connect the parts, I recommend using a proven option - stainless steel corners and screws. Having a drawing in front of your eyes, you can independently calculate the required amount of all materials. The optimal place for building a gazebo is near the water. Choosing a place The resting place on the site should be hidden from prying eyes, but at the same time, the surrounding landscape and generally the convenience of its location should be taken into account. The classic option is to build a gazebo in the garden. A garden gazebo is usually shaded and hidden from the eyes of neighbors - a high fence or dense shrubs solve the problem. The only thing to keep in mind is that some trees can stain the gazebo and vacationers with their fruits. If there is a reservoir on the site, then there is nothing to think about - the resting place should be equipped on the shore.

To do this, you must first prepare the tree - treat it with fire bioprotection, then cover it with bituminous mastic and wrap it with roofing material. Further instructions look like this: at least a meter; Insert the prepared posts; Fill the holes with gravel and sand. Be sure to compact the sand around the posts; Cut all the posts in the same plane. To make the foundation, it is advisable to use logs from a dense and durable tree, such as oak. corner posts: Mount a grillage (strapping) along the perimeter of the building. To do this, use the boards and lay them flat on the posts; Fix the log posts in the corners.

You can fix them with corners and screws; Fasten the edged boards around the perimeter perpendicular to the strapping boards, that is, they should edge on the strapping.

Attach them to the strapping with corners to increase the bearing capacity of the base. Installation of intermediate racks. Fasten the intermediate racks of pine boards in increments of about a meter. Installation of the upper harness. Connect all the racks with an upper trim made of boards.

Arrange the boards so that they are fastened to the racks with their faces. On this, the wooden frame is ready. You can immediately lay logs on the floor and lay boards so that it is convenient to move around and install the roof. It is advisable to use a deck board as a flooring for the floor. It does not require maintenance and does not rot. We install the roof Now we proceed to the installation of the roof.

This work is done as follows: Fasten the boards across the rafters. For this, you can even use an unedged board.

The step depends on the thickness of the board and the type of roofing. As a rule, it is 300 mm. If the coating is soft, it is necessary to perform a continuous crate. Installation of the roofing.

Roofing material is laid as standard - always with an overlap, fixing is carried out with screws or nails. You can learn more about the nuances of laying from the instructions from the manufacturer. Sheathing and finishing To complete the sheathing, you should fix the middle harness. The latter can be made of boards or timber.

In this case, the space between the floor is sheathed with a slab. A summer open gazebo is made in a similar way. If you want to make a closed gazebo, you will need several strapping belts, which will allow you to completely sheathe the structure with a slab. In this case, it is necessary to form window openings.

To do this, you need to fix the racks between the strapping. If you place the slab horizontally, additional strapping is not needed, since the boards can be attached directly to the racks. When mounting the slab horizontally, the middle strapping is not required changes the appearance of the tree or slightly tints it. Varnish and, especially, paint will spoil the natural attractiveness of this material. That's all the nuances of building a gazebo using a slab. Conclusion Now you know how to build a cheap and pretty gazebo from a slab that can stand for decades. If you have any difficulties, please contact me in the comments, and I will be happy to help with advice.

Wooden fences in themselves are inexpensive fences. But even in this case, you can save extra money and put up a fence for mere pennies. In this case, we are talking about a slab fence.

The main advantage of this material is its cost, which is not just small, but very small compared to the board. This is due to the fact that the slab is a waste in the production of lumber and in any woodworking industry it can be found in unlimited quantities.

An example of a slab fence with a gate

The slab is divided into two types: wood-burning, which is used as fuel, and business, which is used for construction.

For all its cheapness, this material has all the qualities inherent in wood. This is an absolutely environmentally friendly material with good strength and easy processing. With proper impregnation, it can last even longer than edged board.

The slab differs only in its external unpresentable appearance, which is quite fixable, but will require a lot of labor.

To date, there is no longer a summer cottage without a gazebo, since it is this landscape solution that combines residential and garden areas.

The functions that this summer cottage performs:

• place of rest and feasts;
• the design in any weather should be reliable and comfortable (in summer it should not be hot in it, and when it rains, water should not flow inside);
• it must accommodate at least 4 people;
• should fit into the overall style of the suburban area.

In the event that they are going to build with their own hands, then the tastes, preferences and habits of the owner are always displayed in the design and in its appearance. A summer gazebo in the country can be large-scale and capital, light and collapsible. It can also be rectangular (standard) or complex in design, for example, octagonal (with a bell roof).

You can completely glaze, or you can leave it open, installing only cornices and carved railings. In the country, pergolas look beautiful and fit into the landscape; they can be built with your own hands from wood, bamboo, bars or metal. This structure can be built over a path leading to a summer gazebo and decorated with vines or other climbing plants.

When choosing a location for this summer cottage (gazebo), it must be borne in mind that during the day there should be a shadow in it, and in the morning and evening the sun's rays should fall into the summer arbor. This structure cannot be placed next to a fence or a road, it is better to install it on a hill (depending on the topography of the site), which will protect the structure from rotting during floods. If there is a reservoir on the site, then the best solution would be to place the building near the water. You can also build a rock garden (instead of a pond).

Before making this or that design, it is necessary to consider what kind of gazebo you want to build, permanent or temporary. Since it will take more time and effort for a solid structure, a collapsible summerhouse has an advantage: it can be installed anywhere and quite easily. It also does not require maintenance, and in bad weather it is easy to dismantle it.

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Gazebo construction technology

Required tools:

• hacksaw;
• saw;
• screwdriver;
• pencil;
• roulette;
• Bulgarian.

It is better to start making any gazebo, having on hand the diagrams and drawings of the desired design, it is still necessary to have the correct calculation of the necessary building materials, and only then proceed with the construction of the structure. In order to be in the country, when calculating it, it is necessary to take into account many details. For example, the load on the structure and each element of the structure, the combination of materials and much more.

Consider how to build a lightweight structure out of wood or thin metal with your own hands.

Remember, if we are building a gazebo, then the main thing is to establish a solid and even base, if it is included in the design (according to the drawing).

In order to start construction, you should remove a layer of soil with plant roots, add gravel or sand, concrete or asphalt the entire site, or lay paving slabs. The racks of the frame structure (wooden or concrete) are buried in the ground, fixed and poured with concrete.

For foundation:

• we drive a peg into the middle of the chosen place, pull the thread and draw a circle on the ground;
• We divide it into equal parts (according to the drawing) and at the intersection of the lines with the circle and into the middle of the circle we drive pipes so that they protrude 10 cm above the ground;
• Reinforcement is driven into the middle of each pipe (it should protrude 15 cm above the pipes), and now you can pour the foundation;
• After complete drying (after about a week), the foundation is ready.

If you plan to make a heavy or large-scale structure with your own hands, then they are installed on a columnar or strip foundation, but keep in mind that such a foundation requires preliminary waterproofing work.

If the soil in the country is clayey, then you will have to follow some rules:

• the design must have at least six racks (supports);
• racks are located around the perimeter.

To reduce the freezing of the soil to the supports and prevent the entire structure from skewing, the supports are wrapped with plastic wrap. If you plan to make a wooden gazebo in the country with your own hands, then you should impregnate all structural elements with those means that contain antiseptics (from fungi, mold) and fire retardants (from fire). In the event that the structure is going to be made of metal, corrosion protection (painting) is mandatory.

If you want to build a stylish gazebo quickly and inexpensively, use slabs for this - the cheapest lumber. Thus, you can not only equip a place of rest, but also decorate the site. The only thing is to first familiarize yourself with all the intricacies of construction, with which I will share below.

Arbors from slabs look original and do not require large financial costs for construction

What is a croaker

Slab is often confused with unedged board, but in fact it is a separate type of lumber, which is the sidewall of the log. A slab, unlike an unedged board, has a flat surface (saw cut) on only one side. There is a wane on the sides and back.

Therefore, the slab, aka obopol, is even cheaper than an unedged board. At the same time, the wane protects the tree from moisture. The structure of it has a slightly untidy rustic antique appearance. Therein lies its highlight.

The slab is the sidewall of a log

Of course, you can use a gazebo from a slab only if the site is decorated in a rustic style. It will perfectly harmonize with the log house in the old Russian style.

If the house in the country is decorated with balustrades, and the site is decorated with sculptures, such a gazebo will be out of place.

Design features of a gazebo made of boards and slabs - we are preparing a project

The arbor from a slab is a frame, more often a rectangular structure. The supporting function of the structure is performed by racks made of boards with a thickness of at least 30-40 mm. To stiffen the structure, the same boards are used for the lower and upper strapping, which connects the racks. The croaker is used for sheathing the gazebo, i.e. exclusively as a facing material, therefore, it does not perform a load-bearing function.

The slab is used only for sheathing the structure

The roof, in principle, can be any single-pitched, gable or multi-pitched. However, in a rustic style, it is better to make it gable - this is a classic option for wooden huts, which will imitate the structure. The roof structure is standard - reciprocal rafter legs form triangular truss trusses. To stiffen, we will use a ridge run that will connect the trusses.

The scheme of the gazebo from the slab

Having decided on all the nuances of the design, create its project on paper. It can be done in the form of a simple drawing or sketch. It is only important to display all the details and indicate the dimensions.

Dimensions are selected taking into account the fact that one vacationer requires at least 1-1.5 square meters. In addition, it is necessary to provide space for furniture. If the gazebo will have a barbecue and a firewood shed, it will also require at least one or two additional square meters.

We build a gazebo from pine boards and slabs

A step-by-step plan for building a gazebo from a slab looks like this:

Preparation of materials

To build a gazebo you will need the following materials:

• The slab itself;
• Pine boards 100x30-40 mm thick;
• Logs with a diameter of at least 100 mm;
• Fire bioprotective impregnation;
• Bituminous mastic and roofing material;
• Roof covering.

Having a drawing in front of your eyes, you can independently calculate the required amount of all materials.

The best place to build a gazebo is near the water

Location selection

The resting place on the site should be hidden from prying eyes, but at the same time, the surrounding landscape and the general convenience of its location should be taken into account. The classic option is the construction of a gazebo in the garden.

The garden gazebo is usually shaded and hidden from the eyes of neighbors - a high fence or dense shrubs solve the problem. The only thing to keep in mind is that some trees can stain the gazebo and vacationers with their fruits.

If there is a reservoir on the site, then in this case there is nothing to think about - a resting place should be equipped on the shore.

Base device

To make the gazebo look as authentic as possible, we will make the base of logs. To do this, you must first prepare the tree - treat it with fire protection, then cover it with bituminous mastic and wrap it with roofing material.

Further instructions look like this:

Illustrations	Actions
	Site preparation: Clear the site of debris; Mark the corners of the future structure with columns and pull the ropes between them.
	Installing columns: Dig holes for posts at least a meter deep; Insert prepared columns; Fill the holes with gravel and sand. Be sure to pack the sand around the posts; Trim all posts in the same plane.

For the foundation, it is desirable to use logs made of dense and durable wood, such as oak.

Related articles:

• Pallet gazebo

Making a gazebo frame from pine boards

Now you can proceed to the strapping device.

Illustrations	Actions
	Installation of the lower trim and installation of corner posts: Mount the grillage (strapping) along the perimeter of the building. To do this, use the boards and lay them flat on the posts; Fix log posts in the corners. You can fix them with corners and screws; Fasten the edge boards along the perimeter perpendicular to the strapping boards, i.e. they should edge on the strapping. Attach them to the strapping with corners to increase the bearing capacity of the base.
	Installation of intermediate racks. Fasten the intermediate racks of pine boards in increments of about a meter.
	Installation of the top trim. Connect all the racks with an upper trim made of boards. Arrange the boards so that they are flattened to the posts.

On this wooden frame is ready. You can immediately lay logs on the floor and lay boards so that it is convenient to move around and mount the roof.

It is advisable to use a deck board as a flooring for the floor. It does not require maintenance and does not rot.

Installing the roof

Now let's start with the installation of the roof. This work is done like this:

Illustrations	Actions
	Installation of the truss system: Fasten the racks in the center of the end walls, the height of which should be equal to the height of the roof; Between the racks it is necessary to fix the ridge run; Use the edged board and fasten the rafters to the harness and run in increments of 60-90 cm.
	Lathing installation. Fasten the boards across the rafters. For this, you can even use an unedged board. The step depends on the thickness of the board and the type of roofing. As a rule, it is 300 mm. If the coating is soft, it is necessary to perform a continuous crate.
	Roofing installation. Roofing material is laid as standard - always with an overlap, fixing is carried out with screws or nails. You can learn more about the nuances of laying from the instructions from the manufacturer.

Sheathing and finishing

To complete the sheathing, you should fix the middle harness. The latter can be made of boards or timber. In this case, the space between the floor is sheathed with a slab. In a similar way, a summer open gazebo is performed.

If you want to make a closed gazebo, you will need several strapping belts, which will allow you to completely sheathe the structure with a slab. In this case, it is necessary to form window openings. To do this, you need to fix the racks between the strapping.

If you position the slab horizontally, no additional strapping is needed, as the boards can be attached directly to the posts.

With horizontal installation of the slab, the middle strapping is not required

As for the paintwork, the best option for the slab is impregnation, which does not change the appearance of the tree or slightly tints it. Lacquer and, moreover, paint will spoil the natural attractiveness of this material.

That's all the nuances of building a gazebo using a slab.

Conclusion

Now you know how to build a cheap and pretty slab gazebo that can stand for decades. If you have any difficulties, please contact me in the comments, and I will be happy to help with advice.