Installation installation of plasterboard walls. Drywall walls and partitions: we do it ourselves. Thermal insulation of walls and installation of drywall on the crate

More and more builders prefer to use drywall instead of other materials. After all, it is easy to work with this material, and with its help they perform a wide range of tasks. Thanks to the GKL, even the most crooked walls are able to become perfectly even without cracks and drops. And creating a single or multi-level ceiling is not difficult. Many designers are turning to drywall to create unique interiors with decorative niches and arches.

Installation of drywall on the wall in a frame way

An indisputable plus of GKL is its versatility, which was mentioned above. In addition, drywall does not crumble over time; with proper operation, no cracks or irregularities occur.

Drywall sheets will help bring any design idea to life

Another important argument is that drywall is suitable for holding pipes, cables and wires in the voids of the structure. Even when it comes to sheathing water pipes or rooms with high humidity, GKL with moisture-resistant properties can help here.

We also note the environmental friendliness of this material. Neither gypsum nor cardboard emit harmful substances during operation.

Tool preparation

Having conceived the installation of GKL on the walls, first prepare all the components. Remember that only the right laying technology will create high-quality walls.

Choose drywall according to the place of application. In places with high humidity, GKLV will do just fine. And in rooms where flammable products are stored, refractory GKLO is suitable. The more GKL properties, the more expensive it is. But the use of standard sheets in conditions that are not intended for it is fraught with damage to the coatings.

In addition to the GKL sheets themselves, you will need a profile of several types and accessories - dowels, self-tapping screws, etc. List of tools:

Laser level or conventional analogue with threads;
Roulette, markers, construction knife;
Scissors for metal;
Perforator or drill (professionals use a gas gun to quickly mount all guides to the walls);
Screwdriver;
cutter;
Spatula for sealing seams.

This is what the main set of tools looks like

The most time-consuming process is the installation of a wall frame for gypsum boards. Here, the correct technology for laying the profile according to the markup is important.

If you are faced with the question of choosing a frame made of galvanized steel or wood, then we immediately notice that the use of wood implies risks. They lie in the fact that the tree itself is a very unpredictable building material. It does not have durability, is prone to rotting and deterioration in high humidity.

When working with concrete and brick surfaces, dowels 40 millimeters long are used. In cases where the frame is attached to softer materials, it is recommended to use long dowels (80 millimeters). When cladding walls made of wood, you can safely use self-tapping screws.

Making markup

Markup technology requires focus and the correct use of the tool. The best assistant here is the laser level. But it is irrational to purchase such expensive equipment for one-time laying of gypsum boards on the wall. Therefore, markup often occurs using the usual level and additional components.

Thanks to the laser level, professionals make markings in minutes

Having measured the required distance for conducting communications and laying insulation, a plumb line is fixed on the ceiling, closer to the corner of the wall. At the point where it touches the floor, a mark is made (the screw is screwed in). This procedure is done in each corner of the room. Then, to facilitate the marking process, they stretch the thread between the horizontal points. After transferring the lines to the ceiling and floor, the threads are removed. Now you can start installing the profile.

When marking, remember that the wider the indent from the base of the wall, the more the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is “eaten up”. A profile is mounted along this line, and plasterboard, putty and final coating will increase the thickness by another 1.5-2 centimeters. But the minimum indent should still be at least four centimeters. Apply the drawing so that it is not erased after several careless movements along the lines.

Surface marking

Installing the frame

The profile installation technology is simple and requires only the correct execution of all steps. The rails are fastened with dowels to the ceiling and floor, it is recommended to use sealing tape. Galvanized steel is cut with metal shears.

Next, mark the places where the rack profiles will be installed. They are mounted at a distance of 40-60 centimeters (measured from the center of the previous profile). This will allow the installation of drywall joints directly in the center of the profile.

If it is planned to mount heavy objects on the wall (kitchen cabinets, shelves, plasma TV), then it is recommended to install a profile at intervals of 40 centimeters with horizontal jumpers in the places of future attachment. This will simplify the further installation of attachments and prevent tearing of fasteners from the walls.

Rack profiles are carefully inserted first into the lower guides, and then into the upper ones according to the given markings. After that, the racks are attached to the wall with hangers.

The process of assembling a metal frame for sheathing

Horizontal profiles are needed in order to fix the drywall joints and give greater rigidity in places where attachments are to be installed. After fixing all the elements, the frame is ready for the final stage of wall installation.

Further technology involves conducting communications and laying insulation. You can do without wall insulation, but as practice shows, this helps not only to keep warm, but also to create better sound insulation of the room.

Wall cladding and preparation for finishing

The final stage involves the installation of drywall on the wall. Starting cutting GKL, remember the fragility of the material. Having cut the top layer of cardboard on one side and not completely cut it on the other, the sheet is placed on the edge of the support and smoothly split. After that, the sheet is turned over, the cardboard is cut and broken to the end. To process such edges, a planer for plasterboard is used, but you can do without it, working with a construction knife.

Joint processing

The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws at the joints with vertical and transverse rails. The sheets are staggered, placing a short sheet of drywall in each row either from above or from below. The sheets are joined strictly in the center of the guide, avoiding sagging. Each GKL is screwed to the frame along the edges and in the center at a distance of 40-60 cm. If the sheets have a straight edge, then it is recommended to make a chamfer at the vertical joints. This will allow you to better putty the joints.

How to install drywall on the wall yourself - 4 stages of rough wall finishing

To date, drywall is one of the most popular types of materials intended for interior construction and interior decoration of residential and commercial premises. However, not everyone knows how to properly install drywall on walls, so in this article I want to pay more attention to the technical description of this simple process.

Classification of drywall sheets

Gypsum board is a composite sheet finishing material, which consists of two outer layers of thick cardboard, and an inner intermediate layer of mineral gypsum aggregate.

The composite construction of the sheet provides this material with high rigidity and sufficient strength, and the outer layer of cardboard forms a uniform matte surface, which can be considered an ideal basis for applying a finishing coating (acrylic paint, decorative plaster, wallpaper, etc.).

Depending on the raw materials and mineral components used, all drywall sheets can be conditionally divided into several types:

The usual drywall sheet for general construction works has the nomenclature name GKL. It is intended for interior decoration of ceilings and walls, as well as for the construction of light interior partitions in residential and office premises with normal room temperature and relative humidity of no more than 70%. The outer cardboard coating of such sheets is gray, and the factory lettering is dark blue;
Moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard with the nomenclature name GKLV is intended for finishing walls and ceilings indoors with normal temperatures and high humidity. To increase moisture resistance, the outer coating of such sheets is made of special impregnated cardboard, and antifungal additives with silicon particles are introduced into the gypsum aggregate. For visual distinction, the outer surface of the GKLV has a light green color, and the factory marking is applied in dark blue;

Fire-resistant drywall sheets have the nomenclature designation GKLO, and are characterized by increased resistance to short-term exposure to direct open flame or high temperature. Such qualities are achieved by introducing non-combustible reinforcing fibers into the composition of the gypsum core, and by impregnating the outer cardboard with a flame retardant composition. The outer coating of fire-resistant sheets has the usual gray color, and the factory lettering is applied in red;
Moisture-proof fire-resistant drywall is designated as GKLVO, and simultaneously combines all the technical characteristics and performance of GKLO and GKLV, respectively. Such material has a rather narrow scope, since its price is significantly higher than the cost of other types of drywall. In order not to be confused with other sheets, its surface is painted light green, and the letter factory marking is applied in red.

Despite the fact that GKLV is considered moisture resistant, it cannot withstand direct contact with water for a long time, so it cannot be installed outdoors, or used to finish wet rooms with direct water on the walls and ceiling (shower room, washing room or steam room in the bath ).
The same warning applies to GKLO: despite its fire resistance, I strongly do not recommend using this material in conditions of prolonged exposure to high temperatures or direct contact with an open flame.

The working process

Stage 1: selection and calculation of materials

The calculation of the required number of drywall sheets should be carried out based on the net area of \u200b\u200ball the walls in the room. To calculate the net area of each individual wall, you must first multiply its length by its height. Then, in the same way, calculate the area of window and door openings on this wall (if any). After that, the resulting area of door and window openings must be subtracted from the total area of the wall, and the net area of \u200b\u200bthe wall should be obtained.

The table shows the technical characteristics of drywall sheets.

When calculating the amount of materials, it should be borne in mind that the width of any drywall sheet is always 1200 mm, and its standard length can be 2000 mm, 2500 mm, 2700 mm or 3000 mm. It should also be taken into account that in the process of work there are always trimmings, and some part of the material goes into marriage, therefore, when buying drywall and all components for its installation, you need to lay a small margin (5-8%).

Based on the classification of drywall sheets discussed in the previous section, when choosing a specific type of drywall, I advise you to adhere to the following recommendations:

For wall decoration in living and sleeping areas of a private house or apartment (bedroom, nursery, living room, corridor), you can use any of the above types of drywall. In the same time, I recommend using ordinary GCR for these purposes, since it has a lower cost;

When performing repairs in rooms with a high level of air humidity (toilet, bathroom, unheated attic or veranda), I advise you not to save money and buy moisture-resistant GKLV drywall. In addition to the fact that it does not collapse under the influence of moisture, its surface is less susceptible to the formation and development of mold;
For interior decoration of the walls of a home heating station, an autonomous boiler room, an electrical switchboard, and other rooms with a possible short-term increase in temperature or the appearance of an open flame, it is best to use fire-resistant GKLO. This material can also be used for outdoor decoration of stoves and fireplaces., provided that a non-combustible mineral wool insulation is laid between them;
GKLVO is more intended for industrial use, but it can also be used in a private house. For example, it is well suited for lining a smoke channel in an unheated attic, or for lining walls around the furnace door of a sauna stove in a damp, cold dressing room;
To install drywall on a supporting frame, you will need to purchase a galvanized metal profile of two types, straight remote brackets, docking "crabs" and metal screws with a hat in the sweat;

The horizontal profile "UD" or "PNP" with a section of 28x27 mm is mounted one at the bottom, at the level of the finished floor, and the second at the top, under the very ceiling. The total length of the whips of such a profile should be equal to the double perimeter of the room;
Rack profile "CD" "PP" with a section of 27x60 mm is installed vertically from floor to ceiling over the entire wall area, with a step of 600 mm. To find out the total number of such a profile in meters for one wall, you need to divide its length by 0.4, and multiply by the height of the room;
When calculating the number of remote brackets, it should be assumed that each rack profile must be mounted on 4-5 brackets;
It is difficult to name the number of self-tapping screws offhand, so for a start you can purchase 300-500 pieces, and if necessary, buy more;
If you plan to sew walls using frameless technology, then for this you will need to buy a special construction adhesive for drywall. Its consumption per 1 m² of wall area can be viewed on the factory packaging.

The standard thickness of drywall sheets can be 6mm, 9.5mm or 12.5mm. The thinnest sheets lend themselves well to bending in an arc, therefore they are used for the manufacture of curly interior details. Medium sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm are light in weight, therefore they are used when sewing ceilings. For wall decoration, I recommend using sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm, since a lot of weight is not critical for them, and they have the greatest strength.

Stage. 2: preparing tools for work

To perform installation work, you will need the usual set of household tools that any home master should have on the farm. Below I will list them, but you will need to adjust it yourself, depending on which installation method is more suitable for you.

To install a metal supporting frame, you will need an electric puncher with a set of drills from 6 to 10 mm, a hacksaw or scissors for metal, a grinder with cutting discs for metal and a cordless screwdriver;

If you opted for a wooden frame, then for its manufacture you will need the same tools, only instead of a grinder and a hacksaw for metal, you need to use an electric cut-off saw or a hand saw for wood;
When attaching drywall to the supporting frame, you will need to tighten a large number of self-tapping screws. To completely mechanize this process, I recommend using a special screwdriver nozzle, which automatically feeds the screws into the screw head;
For frameless installation of drywall on the wall, the adhesive solution will have to be prepared by hand, directly at the installation site. To do this, you will need a metal or plastic container with a volume of 10-12 liters, as well as a construction mixer or a nozzle on a drill for preparing dry building mixtures;

From hand tools, you will need a sharp construction knife with replaceable blades, a medium hammer, curly and flat screwdrivers, as well as a small hand planer for cutting the edges of sheets.
From the measuring tools you will need a large square, a tape measure at least 5 m long, a laser or liquid building level, a construction cord, a rope plumb line and a thin marker or pencil;
To work at height, it is convenient to use an ordinary household stepladder. Its height should be such that a person can freely reach the ceiling with his half-bent arm..

If you prefer frameless installation of drywall to the wall with mounting foam, then I advise you to buy it in large metal cylinders, since it will be much cheaper in such a package. To work with such cylinders, you will need a special gun that allows you to accurately dose the supply and consumption of mounting foam.

Stage 3: production and installation of the supporting frame

Before starting work, you need to completely free the room from the furniture, and remove the old coating from the wall. If you plan to lay hidden electrical wiring, heating pipes or other communications behind drywall, then this must be done in advance, before mounting the supporting frame on the wall.

Next, I will talk about how to independently install the GKL on the wall with the installation of a metal frame. For those who find it more convenient to mount a wooden frame, I must say that it is made according to the same principle as a metal one, only instead of profiles, wooden bars with a section of at least 50x50 mm are used.

After preparing the surface of the walls, first of all, you need to mount the upper and lower horizontal guide profiles around the entire perimeter of the room;

The lower U-shaped profile "UD" must be laid on the floor, and fixed with self-tapping screws parallel to the wall, along a stretched building cord;
The upper U-shaped profile must be fixed in the same way around the entire perimeter to the ceiling. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the plumb line lowered from the longitudinal center line of the upper profile passes exactly through the longitudinal center line of the lower profile. This will allow in the future to install the plasterboard wall strictly vertically;
If the main walls in the room are not very curved, and the lower and upper horizontal profiles are fixed almost close to the wall, then the vertical rack profiles can also be attached directly to the walls;

If the walls in the room are curved, and the horizontal profiles are fixed at a large distance from the wall, then for fastening the vertical rack profiles, you will need to use U-shaped remote brackets;
To do this, starting from one of the corners, on the walls around the entire perimeter of the room, from floor to ceiling, you need to draw vertical straight lines with a step of exactly 600 mm between them;
In each corner of the room, and on each drawn line, 4-5 brackets must be fixed so that the distance from the bottom bracket to the floor, and the distance from the top bracket to the ceiling is 500 mm. The distance between two adjacent brackets should be about 800-1000 mm;
Cut the rack profile into the required number of identical segments, the length of which should be equal to the height of the room from the level of the finished floor to the ceiling;

Install each segment vertically between the legs of the U-shaped holders, bring the lower and upper ends inside the lower and upper horizontal profile, and fix it to its side walls with self-tapping screws;
Next, it must be leveled strictly vertically, and fixed to the side legs of each bracket with two self-tapping screws. Cut the protruding legs with a grinder or metal shears, flush with the front plane of the rack profile;
In the same way, you need to mount rack profiles around the perimeter of each door and window opening;
Having thus installed all the vertical racks, you need to tie them together with transverse horizontal jumpers from the same profile;

For mounting jumpers, it is convenient to use special “crab” connectors that allow you to join two identical profiles at right angles in the same plane; When installing horizontal jumpers, it should be assumed that the distance between their axes should be within 600-800 mm;

Stage 4: fixing drywall sheets

The technology of mounting drywall on the walls is quite simple, however, given that the sheets are large in size and quite heavy, it is more convenient to carry out installation work together with a partner. When buying material, it is better to choose such sheet sizes so that it can be installed vertically from floor to ceiling without transverse joints.

You need to start installing drywall on the walls from one of the corners of the room. From my experience, I can say that at first it is better to sew up those walls on which the window and front door are located;

each sheet must be cut in height to size in place so that it freely, but without gaps, enters the space between the base of the floor and the ceiling;
The first sheet can be rested with the bottom side on the floor, and installed in the very corner. At the same time, it is important to control the level so that it is installed strictly vertically in two planes, and its outer side edge runs exactly along the center line of the vertical profile;
After making sure that it is in its place, one person should hold it with his hands from displacement, and his partner should fix the drywall to the supporting frame with self-tapping screws in the sweat with a step of 160-210 mm between them;
First you need to wrap the screws into a vertical profile around the entire perimeter of the sheet, and then in several places in the middle, into horizontal transverse jumpers;

When tightening the self-tapping screws, it is necessary to set the force limiter on the screwdriver so that the cap does not destroy the drywall, and is recessed below the surface of the plate by no more than 1 mm;
The next sheet must be installed on the floor in the same way, and pressed with its side edge to the end of the first sheet. After that, make sure that it is installed strictly vertically, it must also be fixed with self-tapping screws;
When you reach a door or window opening, one person should put a whole sheet on the place where it should be installed, and his partner at the back of the sheet should draw a cutout for this opening;
Next, from this sheet, you need to cut a window opening along the drawn line, and fix it to the wall in exactly the same way. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that fine finishing of window and door slopes is carried out last, after all the walls are sewn up;

After the drywall is mounted, you need to putty all the fixing screws and joints between the sheets. So that in the future the joints do not disperse from vibration and temperature changes, in the process of puttying they must be reinforced with serpentine glass mesh;
After hardening and drying of the starting layer, the surface must be sanded with a medium-grained emery cloth (P80-P100), and if necessary, apply another finishing layer of putty;
Finally, the surface should be sanded again with a finer sandpaper (P80-P100), then dusted off, and coated with one coat of interior penetrating primer.

In order to increase the heat and sound insulation of the room, in the space between the main wall and the drywall sheets, I recommend laying a mineral wool-based roll insulation. For the same purposes, before mounting drywall on the wall, a vibration-proof foam rubber tape must be glued to the front plane of the supporting frame along the entire length.

Frameless installation of drywall sheets

The GKL installation technology described above helps to remove visible building defects from the eyes, and allows you to level even the most crooked walls, but it has one significant drawback. The fact is that the metal profile of the supporting frame itself has a certain thickness, and in some cases, it has to be installed at a considerable distance from the main wall. In the end, after plasterboarding the walls, the room slightly decreases in volume. If this is not so critical for a room with a large area, then in a small room such a difference can be very noticeable.

In order to make the most of the usable space, below will be offered a step-by-step instruction in which I will describe three simple ways of frameless installation of drywall for fine wall finishing in small rooms.

The easiest way is to glue the sheet to the wall with a special drywall adhesive, which is sold under the brand name "Perlfix". It is produced in the form of a dry construction mixture, and is prepared directly at the place of work. It should be borne in mind that the installation of GKL on glue is allowed with a deviation from the vertical or wall irregularities from 5 to 20 mm.

First you need to cut all the sheets of drywall into the desired size, try on each of them in its place, then number it and put it aside;
Treat the cleaned wall and the back plane of each drywall sheet with a special water-based penetrating primer;

After the primer has dried, apply glue to the back in one of two ways. If the irregularities on the wall are from 5 to 10 mm, it is necessary to apply continuous strips of glue around the perimeter and in the middle, and then smooth and remove its remains with a notched trowel;
With a depth of unevenness on the wall up to 20 mm, the adhesive must be applied with large round cakes with a diameter of 100-150 mm, along the perimeter and in the middle of the sheet, at a distance of 200-300 mm between them.
After applying the adhesive layer, each sheet must be pressed against the wall, leveled, and fixed in a fixed position until the adhesive begins to set.

If in some places the curvature of the walls reaches 50 mm, for gluing sheets it is necessary to use linings in the form of strips of drywall scraps 150-180 mm wide.

The strips must be fixed horizontally along the entire length of the wall at a distance of 500-600 mm between them, using the same glue or long self-tapping screws;
In those places where there are deep dips and depressions on the wall, plasterboard linings must be placed under each strip, and thus align them in a vertical and horizontal plane;
As in the first case, drywall must be cut to size, and its reverse side and strips should be treated with a penetrating primer;
Lubricate each strip thickly with adhesive, level it with a notched trowel, then install a drywall sheet in its place, pressing it evenly over the entire area;
For reliable fixation, several self-tapping screws can be screwed into each strip, directly through the front surface of the sheet.

For gluing drywall to wooden walls, you can use ordinary mounting foam in metal cylinders. After hardening, it has some elasticity, which reduces the likelihood of cracking or deformation of the sheets in the process of shrinkage or swelling of wood.

The surface of wood in a confined space is prone to mold, therefore, before installation, the entire wall area and the back side of the sheets must be impregnated twice with an antiseptic penetrating primer;
Fix each sheet of drywall to the wall at a small offset (5-10 mm) by screwing it in several places with self-tapping screws through spacers or wide washers;
Along the perimeter and over the entire area of the sheet, evenly drill through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm at a distance of 300-400 mm between them;

Insert a plastic tube from the gun into each hole in turn, and blow out an equal amount of mounting foam;
In order to evenly dose the blowing of mounting foam into all holes, I advise you to count each pull of the trigger of the mounting gun in seconds;
The remnants of mounting foam protruding from the hole do not need to try to catch and push back. After hardening, it is easy to cut it with a knife flush with the front plane of the drywall and sand it with a fine emery cloth.

For gluing drywall, I recommend choosing a mounting foam with a low coefficient of expansion. Otherwise, during the solidification process, it can significantly increase in volume, and form local bumps and irregularities on the plasterboard wall.

Conclusion

Despite all its advantages, the described methods of frameless installation of drywall have three common disadvantages. Firstly, adhesive fastening of sheets can only be used if the walls in the room are relatively even and do not have obvious construction defects, and the deviation from the vertical and height differences are no more than 50 mm.

Secondly, this installation method does not allow heat and sound insulation materials to be laid between drywall and the main wall. And thirdly, such a wall covering cannot be dismantled without destroying the drywall.

A more detailed visual instruction for installing drywall on walls can be seen in the video presented in this article, and if after watching you have questions, I suggest discussing them together in the comment form.

October 28, 2016

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It happens that the same building material has several names. Gyprock is referred to this type of material. Gyprock also bears the more common name drywall or plasterboard. Often, it is used as a heater. Basically, they finish the walls. In addition to wall decoration, it has become popular to use drywall for ceiling decoration. This article will help you to mount a drywall ceiling yourself.

How to make a drywall ceiling

Finishing the ceiling with drywall, of course, should begin with the choice of materials and tools. In addition, a plan for finishing and installing a plasterboard ceiling should be well thought out.

It is worth considering, what tools are needed for finishing and installing a gypsum ceiling? In order to make a plasterboard ceiling, you will need a whole list of tools.

List of materials and tools for finishing and installing a gypsum ceiling

So, before starting construction work, you should stock up on the following materials. Firstly, to finish the plasterboard ceiling, you will need, in fact, the drywall itself. You must purchase drywall sheets of the desired length and width. You can find out these parameters by measuring all sides of the ceiling. It is very important to do this accurately, without the slightest error. Secondly, you will need suspensions. Hangers are called building material, with which plasterboard sheets are attached to metal profiles. Next are the metal profiles themselves. They are also called metal guides. They are needed in order to make the frame of the future ceiling out of them, and as a result, it is on this structure that ready-made, sized drywall sheets will be fixed. In addition to the basic materials, you will also need materials for fasteners. Everything will be fastened with dowels and screws. In no case, dowels should not be plastic. Buy only metal dowels. The whole structure will be heavy, so plastic dowels simply cannot withstand it. There will be a lot of pressure on them. Of the tools you will need a puncher and a drill. With the help of them you can fix the drywall sheets themselves and metal guides. And you will also need a tape measure, a pencil, a level ruler.

Advantages of a plasterboard ceiling

The most popular single-level plasterboard ceiling. This type of ceiling does not take up a lot of space. If you have an uneven ceiling, then a plasterboard ceiling is just right for you. With the help of such a ceiling, you can easily hide all the irregularities: pits, bulges and other flaws. Plasterboard ceiling is easy to install. You can even mount it yourself, with your own hands. It also saves you money. Having a plasterboard ceiling, you have a large number of possibilities in terms of ceiling design. All kinds of lamps can be built into it. Gyprock ceiling will give free rein to your imagination. You can turn your ceiling into a unique work of art. The key is to get creative.

How to build a plasterboard ceiling. Ceiling installation scheme

Such structures have the advantage that even if you have a very damp room, this does not interfere with the installation of a gypsum ceiling. Do not worry that because of this all your efforts will go down the drain. No. Gyprock has the ability to take in excess moisture from the air of the room, while not changing its own structure, without spoiling or collapsing. And with a lack of moisture in the room, it can give it away. Here is such a "magic" material - drywall.

From drywall, you can build not only a single-level, but also a two-level ceiling. If necessary, the ceiling sheets can be given the desired shape by gently wetting and bending. The fact is that you need to approach this slowly, doing everything with extreme caution. If you carelessly start working with drywall sheets, then you will simply ruin the sheet, because it will not work to return them to their previous shape. Due to its plasticity, drywall is very popular among building materials.

Preparation for construction work on the installation of the ceiling

Before starting installation, it is necessary to clear all the corners of the interfaces of all four walls and the base base. Especially, this should be done if the corners are rounded. The angle between the ceiling and the wall must be strictly straight (90 degrees). If you do not follow this rule, then you will not be able to fix the structure on the ceiling.

Drywall sheets are attached to the ceiling with a metal frame. It must be mounted so that its height does not exceed 2.5 cm. In the construction of a metal frame, certain nuances cannot be dispensed with. In order for the structure to hold firmly and serve you for a long time, the metal guides must be fastened so that later it is possible to fix the drywall sheets into the concrete itself through the profile.

In order to properly lay drywall sheets, installation must begin not where you want, but strictly from any wall. The next sheet will be stacked in a checkerboard pattern. The width of the plates may not be enough to cover the entire ceiling in whole pieces. Then you have to cut the drywall sheets and make a fit.

The height of the structure of the ceiling itself, given the thickness of the drywall sheets, should be approximately 10 cm. This will allow you to “hide” all the wires from the lighting into it.

Completion of the installation of the plasterboard ceiling

After mounting the frame, it is the turn of laying drywall sheets and their fasteners. They are fixed with self-tapping screws and metal dowels.

Plasterboard sheets should be fastened at a distance not exceeding 40 -50 cm. The main thing is to try to get into metal profiles. Before carrying out work on fixing drywall sheets, they should be processed. As a rule, they are primed with a special compound. This is necessary in order to give the drywall sheets strength and additional moisture resistance.

After you have finished attaching the drywall sheets to the ceiling, you must putty them.

Finishing

After the ceiling has been completely erected by you, it requires a final, finishing finish. At the end, the ceiling must be covered with either special plaster or water-based paint. Let the surface dry. Do-it-yourself gypsum ceiling is ready.

If you responsibly approached this work and performed all the above actions correctly, taking into account all the subtleties, with the utmost care, then the ceiling made of drywall (drywall, plasterboard) will serve you and your home for many years. It will not change shape (deform), will keep warm, take away excess or give the missing moisture to the room, maintain warmth and comfort in your home. By installing the ceiling with your own hands, you saved a large amount of financial resources, because in our time, a qualified builder is a highly paid position, and it makes no sense to invite workers "from the street". Having made a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, you put your whole soul into it. That is why it can create a warm, homely atmosphere in the house.

Drywall in modern life is one of the most common finishing materials. He is gaining his popularity due to the mass of positive qualities, with a small list of negative ones, and in the price category it does not hit the budget.

This material is chosen for finishing the room, and the question arises of its installation. Installing drywall on the walls is not too difficult, but you can’t call it simple either. There are two ways to fix drywall:

Frameless method. The simplest, since it should not provide for the construction of a frame structure. Mostly for fastening a special glue is used.
Frame method. Quite laborious, since it requires the construction of a frame base, on which drywall will be directly fixed.

Let's look at each method, its pros and cons, the installation process. And yet we will decide how to fix the drywall to the wall, and which method is better and more reliable.

What is this article about

Frameless way

The first method, and the easiest to implement, is frameless. For the implementation of the skin in this way, there are a number of necessary conditions, namely:

The base for fastening should be quite strong. There should be no damage, fungal infections, etc.;
The surface must be waterproofed and protected from freezing and moisture;
The wall must be cleaned of all kinds of debris, dust, layers of paint, wallpaper, etc.;
And, of course, the lack of curvature, or to have a slight curvature.

Here are a small number of features and factors that are directly important when using this method of fastening.

Now consider what we need to fix drywall. Of course, after the question of how to attach drywall to the wall becomes, the question arises of what tool and what materials are needed, here is the main list:

These are wall plasterboard sheets. This is our main material to work with;
Gypsum mix. Useful for sealing seams, roughness and uneven walls;
Of course, you need a container to prepare the solution;
A jigsaw, or an ordinary one, is better, of course, electric;
A knife is a blade, in the common people a painting knife;
A rubber mallet is useful for leveling the sheets;
A natural attribute for all work is the building level, fishing line and tape measure;
Rule;
And the last tool on our list will be a spatula.

Done with the list of tools. Now having prepared them, you need to go directly to the installation of drywall on the walls. And consider the order of work.
The procedure for performing work for sewing up a wall with drywall in a frameless way.

Step-by-step instruction

On this, the installation of a drywall structure in a frameless way can be considered complete. We wait until everything dries, putty the seams, install the baseboards, and you're done.

Frame mounting method

It's time to consider the second method of plasterboard wall cladding. Frame method. It is, of course, more time-consuming, complex and costly, but it has a number of advantages over the previous method, let's consider how this design is better:

When installed in this way, the heat and sound insulation of the room increases;
Unlike the frameless method, it does not require the removal of much attention to surface preparation;
Makes it possible to eliminate the global curvature of the walls;
It is used without problems in damp and freezing areas, for their protection and insulation.

Let's see what a wireframe connection looks like:

As it has already become clear, for the installation of such a structure, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a frame, to which plasterboard sheets are subsequently fixed. There are only a few material options for creating a frame base:

Wooden frame. Quite cheap, but short-lived when mounted on a freezing or damp wall, as it quickly corrodes.
Frame made of galvanized profile. More expensive, but at the same time durable, easy to use, working with it is many times easier than with a wooden frame.

Consideration of this type of fastening, we will stop on the use of a galvanized profile. Here you can read about fastening drywall to a wooden crate.

Materials and tools

Of course, there are a number of tools and materials that will be needed during installation, and let's get to know them:

The main material, as it was, and remains wall drywall.
The next thing we need is either wooden profiles or galvanized metal profiles (we opted for galvanized ones).
To fix the frame, you will need metal hangers
The suspensions themselves, of course, need to be fixed to the wall, and screws and dowels will help with this.
Of course, you can’t do without a drill and a puncher for preparing holes for fasteners.
To seal the seams, putty is useful, and of course, a spatula.
The profile will need to be adjusted to the desired size, either a grinder or metal shears will help in this.
To check the evenness of the surface, you need a level and a plumb line.
During work, everything needs to be measured and, of course, a tape measure should be used.
And the last on our list is a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, where without them, if you need to fix something.

Step-by-step instruction

We figured out the tool, and now it's time to proceed to the direct work on fixing drywall. When installing drywall sheets in this way, there are a number of features, so you need to strictly know the algorithm of work and follow it.

And here is the algorithm itself, a step-by-step instruction for performing work:

The first step is to take measurements of the premises, measurements of the required amount of material, and calculations related to these data;
Further, the layout of the profiles and suspensions is carried out;
After that, we fasten the profile, horizontally guides (to the floor and ceiling), vertically lateral, and then also vertically in increments of 50 centimeters bearing;
Suspensions, in turn, are placed at a distance of 70–80 centimeters;
Thus, the frame is almost ready. It remains to securely fix everything and check the fasteners. After that, you can proceed directly to the installation of drywall sheets;
First of all, we provide a heat-insulating layer, which we make from glass wool, arranging it between the profiles;
Now we can proceed directly to the fastening of the sheets. We arrange a sheet of drywall, check the evenness of the surface, and then fasten the sheet to the profiles with self-tapping screws, while screwing it in so that the head of the self-tapping screw is hidden in the sheet with a depth of 2-3 millimeters;
The first sheet is ready, in the same way we mount the following sheets, do not forget that you need to mount drywall so that the seams are offset and there are no cross joints;
After installing the drywall directly, you should do the seams, they need to be puttied. Holes from screws are also subject to putty, since they also need to be hidden.

So the second method of fixing came to an end. In fact, it is used in most cases to quickly level the wall surface, since installation is not very expensive, and it generally levels the surface, which gives the wall a new life.

Thus, there are two main types of plasterboard sheathing, and you now know about them, and then, which one is more suitable for your room, the choice is strictly yours. I would only like to note that with the usual preparation of a wall for finishing, you can use the first method, but with large irregularities, dampness, and freezing, the second one is more suitable.

One of the methods of rough finishing is the formation of the surface, when drywall is installed on walls without a frame. In the article, we will consider effective technologies that involve the installation of drywall directly on the wall surface, and also designate the list of materials necessary for this.

Frameless GKL installation - what are the pros and cons?

The main way to form a wall structure from plasterboard sheets is their installation on a pre-built frame. This technology is a priority, as it allows you to quickly create an ideal surface, regardless of the quality of the base wall. The space between the profile and the wall is convenient to use for hidden laying of various communications: electrical wires in a protective corrugation, water and heating pipes.

But the frame method of mounting GKL has several disadvantages:

hiding the usable space of the room (the minimum distance from the base surface to the back of the profile is 5 cm, the thickness of the drywall sheet is 12.5-15 mm);
to obtain a rigid structure that is resistant to possible mechanical influences, it is necessary to sheathe the crate in two sheets or significantly compact the step of the supporting elements of the frame;
problems with reliable fastening of heavy hanging furniture;
the complexity of designing the supporting frame, which requires professional skills and an impressive set of tools;
the relative high cost of the process of creating a false wall from gypsum boards.

If you need to level the walls in a small room (bathroom, toilet, corridor), “stealing” up to 7 cm of usable space on the lining of each wall is an unaffordable luxury, especially when there is no hidden laying of complex communications or additional insulation or sound insulation. In this situation, it is more reasonable to create a surface for subsequent finishing by attaching drywall to the wall without profiles. Sheets are attached directly to the wall using adhesive solutions, mounting foam or dowel screws.

Sometimes these materials are used in combination, for example, foam plus dowels, or mounting adhesive plus foam. This does not mean that one way to attach drywall excludes the use of another. In addition to compactness, the frameless method of installing drywall on the wall has several more advantages:

relative ease of installation at its high speed;
lower material costs for a set of installation measures;
the ability to make a solid structure using one-sheet sheathing.

The disadvantage of rough plasterboard walls without a frame and profiles include the impossibility of high-quality installation with a large longitudinal or vertical curvature of the base wall (more than 6 cm within one sheet). Another feature is the high requirements for the GCR itself. Sheets of sheathing material should be minimally deformed. If the slight curvature of drywall sheets does not matter when mounted on a frame to which they are rigidly attracted, then the frameless method involves a floating installation, so it is important to properly store and transport the material, preventing its deformation. GKL bought ahead of time cannot be stored in damp rooms, especially in a standing position, leaning them against the wall. Sheets should be laid out on a flat floor or rack.

How is drywall fixed - glue, foam or dowels?

To attach the GCR to the base surface, several materials are used that are specialized and universal. The first group includes special compounds designed for installing drywall to a wall without profiles. These are dry packaged mixtures on a polymer-cement or gypsum basis. The most popular representative of specialized compositions is gypsum glue Knauf Pearlfix preferred by most professionals. It is packaged dry in bags of 30 kg.

Advantages of this glue:

sufficient time for installation and correction of the sheet position (30-40 min);
high strength and reliability of the wall / plasterboard connection;
high elasticity of the prepared solution, which allows mounting on surfaces with a curvature of up to 3 cm without gluing additional stops;
no need to wait for the glue to dry - immediately after it has set, the plasterboard surface is suitable for subsequent finishing (treatment);
adheres even to materials with increased moisture absorption (wood, porous building materials).

The second most commonly used material is polyurethane foam, which is a universal fixative used not only to fix drywall. Polyurethane foam is more often used to fix small fragments of gypsum boards, when ennobling door and window slopes, or in combination with gypsum glue to fill large voids and improve the reliability of gluing sheets on walls with a large curvature.

Less commonly used polymer adhesives - liquid nails. The use of such glue is justified only in cases of mounting small fragments on a reliable and even base. Liquid nails do not allow you to adjust the position of the sheet relative to the base surface. Dowel screws are sometimes used as auxiliary fasteners. They additionally attract GKL with the main use of the adhesive materials listed above. Instead of dowels, you can take black self-tapping screws of the required length with a base surface made of wood or loose porous building materials (shell rock, aerated concrete, foam blocks).

Sheathing walls with drywall without a frame - pre-installation preparation

The use of glue allows you to create a plasterboard surface that is practically not inferior in quality to that when installing the GKL on the crate. To work, you will need the following tools and materials:

aluminum rule;
bubble level;
thread (fishing line);
a set of spatulas;
drill equipped with a mixer;
container for the preparation of glue;
wide paint brush;
even wall (12.5 mm thick) plasterboard sheets (regular or moisture resistant);
gypsum glue for plasterboard;
primer.

When you have stocked up with everything you need, we proceed to surface preparation. Gypsum adhesive perfectly adheres to any building and finishing materials (various bricks, classic and porous concrete, cement-sand and lime plaster). The main requirement for high-quality adhesion of the adhesive to the base is the absence of dust and many unreliably holding areas. The latter are removed, after which the wall is primed. Before priming, we recommend using a hammer or a perforator to knock down areas of masonry material or plaster (if any) that sharply protrude above the common surface. This will facilitate the work and significantly reduce the consumption of glue.

To prepare the adhesive solution, pour water into a container (plastic bucket) at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6-1.7 kg of dry mix (this is according to the instructions). It is easier to do this: pour water a little more than a third of the bucket, gradually pour the dry mixture into it. When a slide of dry glue appears above the surface of the water, mix with a mixer. If the resulting mass does not leave a recess after the rotary mixer is removed, add the dry mixture. If areas of unwetted solution remain with thorough mixing, and the mixer rotates with a load, add water.

How to attach GKL to gypsum glue - step by step algorithm

Having selected and prepared one of the walls for work, first "probe" its relief and deviation from the vertical with the rule and level, during which a "picture" will be formed, giving an idea of where a larger and where a minimum layer of glue is needed. Then you need to decide on the general direction of the future drywall surface. To do this, it is convenient to pull a thread along the bottom (5-7 cm above the floor) along the wall, which will be a guideline for installing the outer surface of the sheets.

The thread is stretched taking into account the surface relief so that the installed sheet does not rest against the existing protrusions of the base wall.

If the wall is not very curved ("walks" no more than 3 cm within the area of the fixed sheet), installation is carried out without first installing additional supports. In the presence of significant concavities, strips or squares of GKL scraps are pre-glued, which remained after cutting the sheets. If there are none or few, you will have to sacrifice a whole sheet for this, cutting it into the necessary substrates. When the glue that fixes the lining lining the wall hardens, we proceed to gluing whole (or cut to the desired size) sheets.

Gypsum glue is applied to the base surface over the entire area of the installed GKL. Applying mortar to drywall is inconvenient. First, it greatly increases its mass, which complicates its movement. Secondly, by forming slides of glue on the wall, it is easier to control their required size and the degree of protrusion above the common surface. Glue is applied arbitrarily, but evenly and in such a way that the fourth or fifth part of the sheet is glued. In the area of \u200b\u200bthe baseboard and the intended fastening of hanging objects, it is more expedient to make the adhesive pad solid. Now that the adhesive mass is already on the wall, we do the following:

1. We put stops up to 10 mm thick under the GKL installation site on the floor (after the glue has hardened, the linings are pulled out and a deformation gap is formed between the drywall and the floor).
2. We start a sheet tilted up from the wall by a stretched orientation thread and gradually completely lean the drywall against the wall.
3. If the sheet to be installed is even slightly stuck to the adhesive, it will no longer fall, so you can release it and analyze the position and possible actions to correct it.
4. We begin to gradually press the drywall into the glue. First, we expose the bottom along the thread, then, under constant control of the level and the rules, we seat the entire sheet in the intended place. Drywall is moved to the base surface with palm strokes or a rubber mallet.
5. Pressing drywall? it's important not to overdo it. It is problematic to return the plots planted deeper than the laid one. Often for this you have to "tear off" the entire sheet and expose it again.
6. In the same sequence, the next GKL is installed nearby. It is important here to control the formation of a beautiful seam between the sheets and their being in the same plane.

The rest of the walls are also closed, after which further finishing is carried out on the surface, which is no different from that on drywall, which is fixed on a frame made of profiles.

Mounting on polyurethane foam – simple and fast

Polyurethane foam is a universal building adhesive and sealant. Polyurethane material adheres securely to almost all surfaces. This property of building foam is sometimes used for local installation of gypsum boards. How to fasten drywall to a wall without profiles using polyurethane foam?

It is necessary to apply foam on a piece of sheet material cut to size in stripes or pointwise (taking into account leaving space for its expansion) and attach it tightly to the base surface. The desired position of the GKL fragment is regulated by dowel screws or self-tapping screws. They will not allow drywall to move under the pressure of expanding polyurethane. After 2-3 hours, the drywall is securely fixed and ready for subsequent finishing.

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