DIY shower switch repair. What are the shower switches in faucets? The faucet has a broken switch

The design of the faucet in the bathroom is equipped with a switch that regulates the pressure, temperature and flow of water between the spout and the shower head. Over time, the switch on the shower fails, it has to be repaired. If there is no experienced craftsman nearby, you can replace and repair switch parts yourself. To do this, we suggest determining the type of your shower switch and making the appropriate repairs.

Types of check valves and their common problems

Over the past decades, the design of switches has undergone significant changes. Many of the Soviet types of switches have been replaced with more modern counterparts. Let's take a closer look at new and outdated models in order to understand what you have to deal with. Let's start with the outdated types of shower switches - spool and cork. They have a lever that rotates 90 and 120 degrees. The spool switch is practically not found on the market today, however, if you have an old Soviet-style mixer installed, most likely you are dealing with this particular design. A spool is installed inside the switch, which consists of a barrel and an eccentric. The mechanism is actuated by rotating a rod with a protrusion displaced from the center. The stem controls the movement of the keg up or down. The external feature of this type of switch is the presence of a plastic or metal handle in the form of a flag. Frequent problems of the spool system are breakage of the eccentric lug, failure of the keg, sensitivity to liming, as a result of rotting of the bolts and destruction of the gaskets.

The plug switch is an improved model of the spool switch. A distinctive feature of the cork system is the presence of a slotted brass plug and a switch handle 7–10 cm long inside. This type of switch ceased mass production in the 90s of the last century. However, there are those who still use the mixer with this type of switch. Common reasons that owners of a cork switch can expect are an overtightened nut that disrupts the smooth rotation of the handle, flow along the stem due to partial wear of the cork.

Modern bath-shower switches are available in push/pull, ball and cartridge types. The pushbutton switch is externally an exhaust plug with a spring-loaded rod that actuates the shut-off valve. When moving down, it shuts off the water to the spout (gander), switches it to the shower. When the rubber valve wears out, the operation of the locking system is disrupted, water flows simultaneously from the spout and shower head. The wear of the fittings of the exhaust switch also leads to spontaneous return of the button after pressing at a minimum water pressure. In such a situation, we advise you to carefully bite out a couple of turns of the spring with tools and the system will again work properly.

It is easy to recognize the ball switch by the presence of a brass ball inside with perpendicular holes, which is clamped between two plates, and the free rotation of the handle through 360 degrees. When the switch is turned, the ball takes a certain position. It blocks one of the holes, and through the second - water enters the spout or shower. The intermediate position of the lever completely blocks the access of water. Such a system is considered durable. The only thing she is afraid of is the ingress of particles of sand, lime. As a result of sticking, deposits and rust form on the surface, which prevent smooth switching, the lever begins to jam. If nothing is done, the system completely breaks down and fails. Therefore, we advise you to clean the internal fittings of the ball switch from limestone deposits at least once every six months.

The ceramic cartridge is a wear-resistant shut-off valve found in most modern faucets. But like the ball type, it is sensitive to sand particles, scale. Therefore, we recommend installing a coarse water filter in advance. If the switch knob starts to jam, do not make sudden movements. Disassemble and clean the system. Otherwise, you will break one of the ceramic plates or the plastic retainer, the cartridge will have to be completely replaced.

Causes of breakdowns - what are the faults and how to fix them?

Simultaneous water supply from the spout and shower head, as well as a leak from the tap - in 90% of cases, a sign of worn rubber gaskets and rings. The actions are simple - we remove the old rubber rings and gaskets, replace them with new ones.

Continuous seepage of water from a faucet or switch may indicate that a layer of salt and limestone has formed between the check valve and the gasket. If the layer is too thick and cannot be cleaned, we dismantle the part and replace it. With small deposits, we clean it.

To clean limestone and salt deposits, we recommend using "zero" sandpaper, a special cleaning agent or GOI paste. We apply the paste on the sponge and polish the contaminated surfaces to a shine.

In exhaust switches, the button often returns to its original position on its own. Here we have already recommended to bite off the spring for a couple of turns, but if this option does not help, then you will have to remove the armature (rod with spring) and also replace it. Perhaps it has completely fallen into disrepair and can no longer be repaired.

If the water does not flow well from the shower head, the reason lies not in problems with the switch or faucets, but in the holes clogged with salt. In this case, it is necessary to disassemble the watering can, carefully clean the holes from sand and lime, rinse the sprinkler with an alkaline detergent for plumbing. Depending on the configuration of the watering can, it is disassembled in one of two ways - in the middle of the sprinkler, remove the plug and unscrew the fixing screw or scroll the grid counterclockwise.

We disassemble the switches - the sequence of actions

The first thing to do during the conduct is to turn off the water, and then proceed according to the scheme, depending on the type of switch. If you have a mixer with a spool or plug switch, we disassemble the system like this:

  1. 1. Remove the decorative cap from the switch by prying it with a knife.
  2. 2. unscrew the screw.
  3. 3. After that, the switch handle can be easily removed.
  4. 4. Using an adjustable wrench, unscrew the clamping nut that holds the crank.
  5. 5. Next, unscrew the crank itself and the spool or plug.
  6. 6. We change or clean the part.

Remove the ball switch from the mixer in the following sequence:

  1. 1. In the upper part of the mixer, unscrew the outlet for the watering can. This is easy to do by hand.
  2. 2. After unscrewing, you will see the same locking ball, which is sandwiched between two fluoroplastic plates. You can remove it immediately, and then unscrew the handle with the rest of the switch, but you can do it easier.
  3. 3. Remove the decorative cap from the switch cap.
  4. 4. Unscrew the screw with a curly screwdriver.
  5. 5. Remove the handle and unscrew the stem part with the gasket with a key.
  6. 6. From below with a gas wrench or manually, we look at the degree of density, unscrew the lower threaded fastener that holds the gander. If the thread is difficult to unscrew, lubricate it with oil.
  7. 7. We take out the locking ball, clean it, change the gaskets if necessary.

The push button switch is the easiest to remove. To replace a worn spring, proceed as follows:

  1. 1. We unscrew the button, after dismantling the decorative plate and the screw.
  2. 2. We remove the rod with the spring from the hole.
  3. 3. Replace the old spring with a new one. Attention, the new spring must have an anti-corrosion galvanic coating and be slightly smaller than the diameter of the previous one.
  4. 4. In the reverse order, we assemble the system.

If water flows out from under the lever with a ceramic cartridge, the handle does not turn well or you cannot set the desired temperature, only hot or cold water runs, the shut-off valve has broken. Consider the sequence of replacing a ceramic cartridge, however, if you have a plastic or metal version installed, nothing will change:

  1. 1. We hook and take out a decorative plug, usually a red-blue mark is drawn on it.
  2. 2. We loosen the screw with a curly screwdriver or a hexagon, depending on the model.
  3. 3. Remove the lever and manually unscrew the decorative washer.
  4. 4. Using a wrench of the desired diameter, unscrew the nut, not forgetting to hold the mixer.
  5. 5. We take out the cartridge and inspect it. In the presence of the above problems, the part has become unusable. We do not throw away the cartridge, we take it with us to the plumbing store and purchase the same one.
  6. 6. We remove blockages and lime that has formed under the cartridge, put a new shut-off valve.
  7. 7. We assemble the system in the reverse order. Do not tighten the nut too tight, otherwise the cartridge body will burst.

Each modern bathroom faucet is equipped with a button-switch between spout and shower modes, which allows you to redirect water flows from a gander to a watering can and vice versa.

However, during operation, this element of the mixer may fail and start to work incorrectly.

This usually manifests itself in the form of leaks, when the “shower” mode is turned on, water drips or flows from the tap. This is due to improper distribution of flows.

The cause of this kind of malfunction is usually the banal wear of critical parts.

At the same time, excessively hard water, which has a detrimental effect on the insides of plumbing equipment, can significantly reduce the life of the mixer.

As a rule, all modern faucets (with the exception of cheap Chinese copies) are maintainable, so you can troubleshoot the faucet-shower button yourself.

However, in order to repair the switch, you must first figure out what type of mechanism is involved in a particular mixer model.

To date, the most common faucet-shower switches of the following type:

  • Spool (lever)- this type of switches has been widely used in thin-walled mixers with "lambs" since the times of the USSR. A characteristic feature of spool switches is a handle made of plastic, ceramic or metal located between the valves;
  • Pull-out (push-button) switch- is located directly next to the outlet to the hose of the watering can. The main feature of this switch is the automatic mode of operation: if you turn off the water, it will automatically return from the “shower” position to the “spout” position. The return spring is responsible for this;
  • ball switch- the main unit of this mechanism is a metal (brass) ball with drilled holes for redirecting water flows. The ball itself is sandwiched between two O-rings. This type of button works on the principle of a ball valve and has the highest service life.

For self-repair, depending on the type of button, you may need the following set of tools: an adjustable and / or gas wrench, a Phillips screwdriver, a 17 wrench, a set of rubber gaskets, a set of hex keys.

Shower Switch Button Repair Instructions for Faucets

Pushbutton Switch Repair

Shower button may stop blocking the water in extreme positions or begin to spontaneously reset from the “shower” mode to the gander with insufficient water pressure.

The reason for the first malfunction is the failure of the rubber seal. In this case, it needs to be replaced.

For this you need:

  1. Shut off the water supply;
  2. Using a wrench, unscrew the gander;
  3. Disconnect (unscrew) the decorative cap of the button;
  4. Remove the stem from the body along with the spring;
  5. Unscrew and remove the valve;
  6. Remove the old o-rings from the valve;
  7. Install new rings of the same shape and size (sold in the plumbing department);
  8. Assemble everything in reverse order.

If a shower faucet button stopped coming back to its original position when the water is turned off, the cause of the breakdown is the wear of the spring or its damage. In this case, the spring must be replaced.

If, with a weak pressure of water, spontaneous switching from a shower to a gander occurs, the spring should be loosened by biting off a couple of turns with wire cutters.

Spool switch repair

If the faucet is equipped with this type of switch, over time, water may begin to flow from under the handle.

The main reasons for the leak in this case:

  • damaged/worn rubber o-rings on the crank pivot rod;
  • the rubber seal on the switch box is worn out or missing;
  • the crank screw has loosened or the mixer axle box is not tightly fixed.

If water oozes out at the attachment point of the axle box with the mixer body, it is necessary to disassemble it with a wrench or gas wrench and install a new seal.

In case of leakage from the rotary rod, the axle box must be completely disassembled and the sealing rings on the rotary rod must be changed.

If water leaks in one of the switch positions, most likely the gaskets for the seal on the spool have failed. In this case, unscrew the spool, replace the gaskets and clean all working surfaces from limestone.

Ball switch repair

Problems with a ball-type switch are very rare and usually occur due to excessively hard water, when limescale deposits form on the surface of the working elements.

If the mixer itself is inexpensive, then the metal from which the ball mechanism is made can be covered with an oxide layer.

In both the first and second cases, you can solve the problem by disassembling the mixer and cleaning the mechanism from plaque, as shown in the video:

Prevention of the operation of the shower switch button

Practice shows that the main cause of premature failure faucet buttons and other plumbing equipment is the presence in the water in a large number of hardness salts (calcium and magnesium).

Alkaline earth metal salts enter the water supply system from artesian wells and create many problems for consumers.

White streaks on the chrome surface and lime build-up on the outside of the faucet are just the visible part of the problem. Hardness salts can completely render even the best Italian plumbing unusable.

To extend the life of the mixer, its main working elements should be periodically cleaned of lime deposits.

To do this, it is enough to disassemble and clean them approximately once every 6-12 months with a liquid bath cleaner, as shown in the video:

The department of household chemicals presents a wide variety of such products.

Suitable for CillitBang, Stork Sanox Clean bath, FROSCH bath and shower, Comet spray, etc.

Attention! In order not to leave scratches on the chrome-plated surface of the mixer during work, unscrewing the nuts, wrap them with a cloth. Do not strongly compress the elements of the mixer when working with a gas wrench, as this can lead to cracking.

One of the most common problems in the operation of plumbing is the breakdown of the faucet in the bathroom. If you know how to disassemble the shower switch, then you can fix the problem with your own hands and carry out repairs.

Shower switches are classified according to their design and principle of operation. By design, they are:

In accordance with their design features, the principle of disassembly and repair of mixers is significantly changed. We offer to consider how to disassemble the most common shower switches.

Step-by-step instructions for parsing a cork switch

The plug switch is further divided into the following subtypes:

  1. Manual. It switches the lek-gander mode only when the hand is pressed;
  2. Auto. After a certain time, the plug will return to the closed position;
  3. Soviet. Here the cork is adjusted by a rotary mechanism. Now this design is very rare.

First you need to turn off the water in the apartment to avoid flooding or other unpleasant surprises during the repair. After that, a decorative panel is removed from the mixer, which indicates a change in temperature during the movement of the mixer handle. There is a threaded connection under the panel. Using a screwdriver, carefully unscrew the bolt and remove the upper part of the handle.

Video: step-by-step shower switch repair

After that, depending on the type of locking mechanism, the sequence of actions may vary:


When working with the Soviet type of cork switch, the adjusting knob is first unscrewed, and then the switch is removed.

Spool Type Switch Disassembly

If a spool-type removable switch is installed on the shower switch, then the procedure for disassembling it will have a slightly different look:

  1. From the mixer body you need to unscrew the lower part of the structure - the switch and the hose from the shower. To do this, use an adjustable wrench or wrench of a suitable diameter;
  2. To disconnect the hose from the switch, you need to remove the nut that holds the structure. To do this, it is convenient to use an adjustable wrench;
  3. After that, the switch is disconnected from the housing. It must be carefully unscrewed from the mixer.

Still very common are shower head spool switches that do not need to be completely disassembled for repair or maintenance work. It is enough just to remove the locking or decorative nut from the switch and carefully pull the mechanism out.


Spool switches are not very popular due to the impossibility of repair. Therefore, if a leak appears on such a mixer, then it is easier to change it immediately than to try to repair it.

How to disassemble a shower ball switch

In two-valve mixers, ball shut-off switches are most often installed. A feature of such devices is that the pressure of water and its temperature are regulated by a ball installed in the switch. It is connected to the stem and valves of the faucet. When the handles are rotated, the ball changes its position and sets the required jet pressure, and also switches the gander-spout shower mode.


Step-by-step instructions on how to disassemble the shower ball switch (gander - watering can):


When you assemble the mixer and the switch to its original position, it is recommended to wind the FUM tape on all threaded connections, and also replace the gaskets and rings. A preventive inspection should be carried out once every six months, this will prevent wear of the seals.

The faucet is an essential element of every bathroom with hot and cold water supply. Thanks to him, the temperature of the water leaving the tap and its pressure are regulated. In addition, the mixer has a switch that allows you to redirect water from the tap to the shower. Like any mechanical device, the mixer is not immune from all sorts of breakdowns. Fortunately, its design is not too complicated, allowing, in most cases, to fix problems yourself. In the article, we will consider the device of a bathroom faucet with a shower, repair of a faucet in the event of any breakdowns, and list the causes of malfunctions.

Consider how it is arranged with a shower. This will help to understand the principle of its operation, depending on the design. All faucets that can be used in the bathroom are divided into 3 categories:

1. Touch. The control element of such a device is a photocell that gives a command to turn the device on and off. Self-repair of such devices is very difficult, so it would be most rational to refer it to specialists.

2. valve. The device of the bathroom faucet with a valve-type shower is quite simple:

  • frame;
  • spout;
  • valves. Designed for manual control of the mixer;
  • axle box crane. They control the flow of water. Older models are equipped with rubber gaskets, while new ones have ceramic plates.
In the photo, the design of a valve mixer with a flag switch

Tip: Ceramic bushings are much more durable than older models, and they are much easier to manage, since the valve rotates a maximum of 180 degrees.

3. Lever. Recently, this type of mixer is gaining popularity. A typical lever model consists of the following elements:

  • frame;
  • spout (gander);
  • a ceramic or ball cartridge in which water is mixed. Ceramic cartridges cannot be disassembled. If such a cartridge has become unusable, the repair of a bathroom faucet with a shower will consist in replacing such a cartridge;
  • control knob that regulates the pressure of water and its temperature. Mounted on the cartridge lever;
  • a nut that fixes the cartridge in the housing;
  • a housing cover that covers the cartridge and is designed to give the mixer a more aesthetic appearance.

The main causes of mixer failures

If you carefully study the device of the bathroom faucet with a shower, its repair will not be difficult. It is only important to know the causes of breakdowns:

  • Unsatisfactory product quality. This is typical for products of little-known manufacturers who use low-quality components and consumables in their work;
  • Use of old consumables. For example, paronite or silicone gaskets last much longer than rubber products. In addition, they are less deformed and do not collapse from drying out;
  • Dirty water in pipes;
  • Increased water hardness affects the internal parts of the device, provoking the formation of deposits and cracking of the seals.

Major breakdowns and their elimination

Let us examine in more detail what breakdowns can occur during the operation of a faucet with a shower, as well as how to fix a faucet in the bathroom on your own. Faults may be of the following nature:

Leak at the junction of the gander with the mixer body

This is the most common failure, as the gander constantly rotates in different directions, which leads to wear of the rounded rubber pad. This gasket is located in the groove of the gooseneck, so the gooseneck must be disconnected to replace it.

Actions are performed in the following sequence:

  • the fastening nut is unscrewed;
  • gander is removed;
  • the remnants of the old gasket are removed from the gander groove;
  • a new gasket is installed;
  • the goose is put in place;
  • the thread on which the fixing nut will be screwed is wrapped with 2-3 layers of FUM tape;
  • the gander fastening nut is tightened.

Leak from under the control lever

Such a failure is typical for single-lever mixers and is caused by a broken cartridge. The faucet needs to be disassembled and replace cartridge. In addition to this failure, there are several other signs of a cartridge failure:

  • the lever became difficult to control;
  • the temperature of the supplied water changes spontaneously;
  • no supply of either hot or cold water;
  • The valve does not close completely or does not open completely.

In this case, the cartridge needs to be replaced. Do-it-yourself bathroom faucet repair is carried out in the following order:


Important: There are protrusions on the cartridge body that must align with the recesses inside the body. Align them carefully. If they don't match, the mixer will leak.

Leaking valve of a two-valve mixer

The reason for the leakage of a two-valve mixer is the wear or destruction of the sealing washer located on the crane box. The destruction of the crane box itself may also occur. If the faucet in the bathroom is leaking - how to fix it quickly and inexpensively? Only on my own replacing the crane box or the washer on it. There is nothing difficult in this.

All work is carried out with the water supply turned off:

  • the plug is removed from the leaking valve;
  • the screw is unscrewed with which the valve is attached to the mixer body;
  • with the help of an open-end or adjustable wrench, a crane box is unscrewed;
  • the crane box itself or the sealing ring on it is replaced;
  • a new or refurbished crane box is installed in the old place.

Faucet-shower switch leak

There is another gasket between the faucet-shower switch and the body, which can be damaged. How to fix a bathroom faucet whose switch is leaking? Just disassembling the switch itself:

  • the button (switch) is removed, for which the stem is held in a fixed position with pliers;
  • the valve with the stem is removed;
  • the damaged seal is removed;
  • in his place new seal installed;
  • the switch is put together.

Repair of a faucet with a flag switch is shown in the video.

Malfunction of the button or valve "faucet-shower"

If the button does not return after being turned off, then its spring is faulty. It is necessary to disassemble the switch as described above, and then remove the broken spring. In her place new spring installed.


If the switch does not work, and water flows from the shower and from the tap at the same time, then the cause is cracked oil seal located on the switch stem. Necessary:

  • remove the button (switch);
  • remove the stem;
  • replace the seal;
  • assemble the switch.

Leak at shower hose connection

This problem occurs due to damage to the hose gasket. If the bath faucet is leaking, a do-it-yourself repair will consist in replacing this gasket. To do this, simply unscrew the hose nut by hand, and then remove the worn washer. In her place a new paronite washer is installed. Before tightening the nut, it is advisable to wrap a couple of layers of FUM tape on the thread. here.

Leak in the place where the watering can is connected to the hose

How to fix a faucet in the bathroom if there is a water leak at the junction of the hose and the shower head? Very simple. Under the nut located on the hose there is a round insulating gasket. It is easily replaced even without the use of tools.

Weak water pressure

If the water pressure through the mixer has noticeably weakened, while the neighbors have remained the same, one should suspect, first of all, aerator filter clogged located at the tip of the gander. You should unscrew it with your hand or pliers, and then check the pressure. If the pressure increased without an aerator, then the reason lay in its pollution. You need to gently rinse it under running water, and then screw it back into place.

Tip: It is often not the aerator itself that gets dirty, but the cleaning filter located at the entrance to the room. Therefore, if cleaning the aerator did nothing, then unscrew the filter and check the cleanliness of its mesh.

We found out how to repair a bathroom faucet with a shower with our own hands. If you use higher quality consumables, such problems will occur much less frequently.

Do-it-yourself bathroom faucet repair video

In some models of massive (thick-walled) bath faucets of the middle price category, regardless of whether they are valves or cartridges, but more often in cartridges, there is a simple exhaust (push-button) shower-spout switch. Simple - means that in what position you leave it, in this it will remain. In more expensive models, such a switch always returns to the spout position after turning off the water. Sometimes it's not very pleasant to put your hand under the spout to wash off a small speck, turn on the water and get a good cooling shower from a watering can left in a dangerous position, but this is not about that.

Often, during operation, water begins to flow not only from the spout or shower, but begins to flow from under the spout-shower switch button. It’s not that this is such a terrible breakdown, but women who polish the mixer once a week are too capricious and tedious, so such a breakdown has to be fixed.

A simple exhaust (button) switch looks like this:

There can be several reasons for the leak:

1. Worn or missing gasket between switch body and spout.

2. The switch body is not fully screwed in.

3. Worn or missing (but most often wear during operation due to lack or washout of grease) seals on the switch exhaust rod.

To determine the cause of the leak, you need to disassemble the switch. It's not hard to do this:

1. First you need to unscrew the switch button. To do this, press down harder on the button and rotate it counterclockwise.

2. In order to unscrew the switch housing, you will need a wrench (usually 12), but first you should try to unscrew the switch housing with your hands, if it was not tightly screwed on, it will easily unscrew and this may be the cause of leakage. If the body is screwed very tightly, then you need to hold the spout (spout) with one hand, and unscrew it with the other hand. Too tight tightening of the case can also lead to damage to the gasket.

3. If the gasket has deteriorated, then this will also be immediately visible (the remnants of a worn gasket are shown in the photo with a red arrow).

1 2 3

4. After the switch housing is removed, you need to pull the exhaust rod up and check the presence and quality of the seals on the exhaust rod:

Worn or worn gaskets need to be replaced, but this is not always as easy as it seems. And if you can still choose a gasket between the switch body and the spout at the nearest construction market, then it is far from always possible to find gaskets of the required diameter for the exhaust rod. Here, as always, plumbing winding can come to the rescue. It is necessary to remove the gaskets (at least one), you can do this with a thin simple screwdriver, wind up 2-4 layers of winding and roll the gaskets into place. For a while, the problem will be solved, but if the exhaust rod is not lubricated, then the gaskets will wear out further.

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