Ceramic tiles on cement-sand mortar. Laying ceramic tiles on a dry mix. For outdoor and indoor work

Each person who decides to lay the tile with his own hands must first think about how and with what help to fix it on the surface. The main role of the mortar for ceramic tiles is the installation of a tile coating by fixing it to the floor or wall. It is not at all difficult to prepare it yourself, at home.

The first thing to do is to decide on the composition. Mortar for ceramic tiles is of two types:

cement-adhesive mixture, made by hand. It is the most versatile and most reliable material;
ready-made dry mixes sold in stores and markets. They are intended only for smooth, plastered surfaces made of concrete, brick, wood.

The first option is the most popular. The composition of the cement-adhesive mixture does not depend on where the tile coating will be glued, on the floor or on the walls. For its manufacture, it is desirable to use purified, coarse sand and cement. The higher the brand of cement, the better the quality of the mortar, but in any case it should not be lower than 300. If you use cement grade 300-400, then its ratio with sand will be 1:5, and if you take cement grade 500-600 - then 1:6.

In order to achieve a good adhesion of the surface with the solution, you can dilute it with PVA glue.

The sand used, if it is wet, must be dried, because. wet will not penetrate through a fine sieve when sifted.

When purchasing cement, it is imperative to check the release date. If the expiration date has expired or is close to it, then for sure he has lost half of his properties. If the purchased cement does not have a package, then its suitability can be established as follows: you need to pick it up in a handful and squeeze it, while the fresh one will come out between the fingers, and the expired one will get into a lump.

cement mortar

To make a cement-adhesive mortar for ceramic tiles, the following technology is used:

First of all, you need to sift the sand. If this is not done, then various pebbles, fragments of shells, pieces of clay that may be in it will fall into the solution and the tile laid on it may subsequently crack;
The sifted sand is mixed with cement in the above proportion, adding water until it resembles dough in density. After that, the solution is ready for use.
To ensure good adhesion, PVA glue can be poured into it - 1/2 liter of glue is taken per 10 liters of solution.

An excellent replacement for the cement-adhesive mixture is a ready-made dry mix (tile adhesive) purchased at the store. It consists of cement, sand and a huge number of various chemical additives that give it properties appropriate to its purpose. Subsequently, a mortar for ceramic tiles is made from this mixture. The price depends, as a rule, on the manufacturer and on the quality of its components.

Dry mix solution

Working with such mixtures requires strict adherence to instructions. The adhesive properties of ready-made suspensions are better, moreover, they are diluted with special antifungal additives. But all this is true only if the solution is made correctly:

during work, it is imperative to protect the respiratory tract using a respirator or gauze bandage;
pour three liters of water 22-24 C into a clean ten-liter bucket;
Pour the dry mixture into the water gradually, stirring constantly. The finished volume should be approximately 2/3 of a bucket;
mix thoroughly so that no lumps remain. This can be done with a special whisk;
to enhance adhesion, dilute the solution with PVA glue at the rate of 1/2 liter per 10 liters of composition;
the prepared solution must be allowed to stand for ten minutes and mixed again.

Types of ready-made dry mixes (tile adhesive)

Versatile mix. It is the most popular, used to fix small tiles. Usually it is used for interior decoration with ordinary tiles.
Reinforced blend. Its main purpose is to fix large tiles on the floor and walls. A characteristic feature of this type of mixture is to provide good adhesion to the surface and high resistance to various kinds of loads.
Pool mix. With its help, pools and baths are finished with mosaic tiles. This mixture is moisture resistant and includes components that prevent the appearance of mold.
Frost resistant mix. Designed for outdoor work. With its help, plinths of buildings, stairs, terraces, etc. are covered with tiles. This mix is steady against repeated freezing with the subsequent thawing.

These are the main types of ready-made dry mixes from which mortar for ceramic tiles is made. Photos of them can be viewed on the Internet on the websites of enterprises selling building materials.

How to choose a good quality dry mix

There are several criteria that you need to rely on when choosing a finished mixture:

when buying a ready-made mixture, you should always check the expiration date and compliance with storage conditions. If they are violated, this material may partially or completely deteriorate;
it is better not to purchase a mixture that was produced more than six months ago, because. it has the property of caking, and may later petrify;
where and by whom the mixture was released also matters. There is a myth that says that when buying expensive materials, people overpay for the brand that is depicted on the package, but this judgment is far from the truth. Manufacturers who have been on the market for a long time, in order to stay afloat in the face of fierce competition, are constantly researching the properties and composition of mixtures, improving their products.
When choosing the type of this material, you should not buy the same one for walls and floors. they will be loaded differently. It is better not to save and buy a reinforced mixture for the walls.

With the help of this guide, any beginner in matters of repair and construction will be able to independently prepare a mortar for ceramic tiles. See the video below for more detailed instructions.

Tip: despite the fact that the optimal composition of the ingredients has already been selected in all mixtures, there are several additional additives that will make the glue even stronger. Manufacturers do not add them, as it is not cost-effective and greatly complicates the production process. Such additional substances include PVA glue (added to the diluted mixture) and cement (above grade 50).

There are quite a lot of different companies on the dry mix market, but not all of them offer decent products. Among the time-tested and customer reviews are:

Ceresit,
Optirok (Vetonit),
atlas,
sopro,
Bolars,
Eunice.

The most famous of all manufacturers is without a doubt Ceresit products. This brand is part of the Henkel concern, which also produces goods under the brands Thomsit, Metylan and Moment. The main capacities are located in Ukraine, but the products fully comply with the requirements and technical standards. The range offers a lot of different compositions, which differ from each other in the composition and method of operation of the tile. There are frost-resistant mixtures for outdoor work and various compositions for porcelain stoneware, thin tiles and other types of tiles.

The Finnish corporation Optirok offers the domestic consumer a Vetonit product range. Considering the harsh Finnish weather conditions, adhesive mixtures are made with an additional margin of safety, so Vetonit adhesives are suitable for use in all regions of Russia.

Polish Atlas is also quite high quality, but it is cheaper than analogues. The company specializes specifically in adhesive mixtures, therefore it offers a lot of compositions designed for specific loads. This allows you to optimize the process of installing tiles so as to maximize its service life.

Sopro is a German company that has repeatedly been awarded in international construction competitions. Of course, the quality of its products is at the highest level, in connection with this, domestic distributors significantly overestimate the cost of goods. It makes sense to stop at the choice of this company if a large amount of work is required and a wholesale purchase is possible. Then the price will be acceptable.

Of the domestic companies, Bolars and Eunice are worthy of attention. Both companies have their own factories in Russia. Products comply with GOST. Since there are no customs clearance and delivery costs, the goods of these manufacturers are cheaper. But little experience in this industry allows us to recommend companies exclusively for interior wall tiling. Also, it should be added that the Moscow company Eunice does not yet have a wide network of distributors, therefore it is available only to residents of the Moscow region.

Facing with ceramic tiles has long crossed the boundaries of bathrooms and kitchens. This natural, durable and very beautiful material, shining with a variety of decor, is used to decorate swimming pools, fireplaces, create mosaic panels on the walls, and arrange underfloor heating in various rooms.

In order for the tiled elements to hold tight and not collapse ahead of time, you need to “plant” them on.

Traditional blends

Previously, there was only one type of masonry mixture. This is a cement-sand composition made by a master tiler. Its quality directly depended on the qualifications of the worker, his experience and responsibility. After all, the introduction of an excessive amount into the solution or could spoil the whole work. As a result, the tiles could begin to fall off the walls within a week.

Mortars based on cement and sand are still the most popular today. With the help of such solutions, it can be carried out either on the walls, and the correct dosage and accuracy in the performance of work will allow the lined surface to serve for a long time without spoiling or collapsing. The formulation of this composition will be given in the next section.

To date, there is another way to prepare masonry mortar for tiles. It is simpler and faster than the previous one. We are talking about dry ready-made mixtures containing, in addition to a cement (or gypsum) base, various binders, plasticizers, coloring pigments, hydrophobic components, hardening catalysts. To work, it is necessary to add to the powder the amount of water indicated in the technical data sheet. The solution sets quickly (in 15-20 minutes), therefore, it requires some skill and alternate application in small areas.

Dry adhesive mixtures

Many firms, both foreign and domestic, produce dry adhesives. In addition to universal mixtures used for floor or wall cladding indoors, there are also:

moisture-resistant mixtures used for tiling pools, showers, baths;
mixtures that do not shrink (used, as a rule, to create mosaic panels);
fire-resistant mixtures used for surface finishing of stoves and fireplaces;
especially durable mixtures that can withstand bad weather and frost - are used for exterior tiling.

Facing with glazed and other ceramic tiles, their laying, are possible on cement mortar and not only, which we will talk about later.

Composition and structure

Now let's talk more about the traditional solution of sand and cement. Its popularity is due to the low cost of the components, their availability and good results, provided that the masonry composition is properly manufactured. And the resulting solution can be used for both walls and floors.

So let's start with cement. Its brand must be no lower than the M300 (this is an acceptable minimum). Higher grades give a better quality solution. In addition, do not forget to check that the cement is dry and fresh enough. It is easy to find out by taking a handful of powder in the palm of your hand. If it has a loose consistency, then everything is fine. If it shrinks into a tight lump, then the cement is old. It will not make a good solution.
Next - about sand. It should first be dried well and certainly sieved (this will remove impurities of shells, pebbles, and other debris). Sand grains should be of medium grain size.

Perhaps enough has been said about the main components. Now we give a specific recipe for the solution. For one part of cement M300 or M400, five parts of sand should be taken. If higher grades of cement are used (M500 or M600), then the amount of sand is increased to six parts.

To increase the adhesion and strength of the solution, 500 milliliters of PVA glue are added for every ten liters of it. The amount of water - until the density of the mixture, similar to dough.

Laying ceramic tiles with your own hands on the mortar is discussed below.

We will tell about the adhesive solution for laying tiles in the form below:

Handmade production

After mixing the sifted sand with cement, clean water is slowly poured, constantly mixing and achieving the desired consistency and absolute uniformity. The amount of water added depends on the thickness of the masonry joint. If it should be thin, then more liquid is needed. For a thicker layer, make the solution thicker.

If you have to dilute the finished adhesive mixture, then in the absence of experience, you should strictly follow the instructions that the manufacturer usually prints on the package. In a clean container, as a rule, water is first added (about eight-tenths of the total amount), then the mixture is poured, mixing is carried out until smooth. The remaining water is added. Re-mixing is carried out.

In order to qualitatively mix all the components, without leaving dry lumps and undiluted substances, it is recommended to use a construction mixer or a drill with a special mixing nozzle. Its rotation speed should be 400-600 rpm.

Laying ceramic tiles for mortar in the bathroom is shown in the video below:

How to avoid mistakes

In order not to have to redo all the work later, it is better to find out in advance what errors in the manufacture of the solution can lead to unpleasant consequences. And what should be done to rid yourself of these mistakes.

You should not save money by purchasing cement of dubious production and quality. It is advisable to take high marks. Be sure to look at the date of manufacture - it must be fresh. If there is no date on the package, then we check the flowability of the cement powder by squeezing it in the palm of your hand.
Do not use wet sand - it will take lumps. And without sifting the sand, pebbles and debris can get into the solution. Once under the tile, they will not allow it to adhere firmly to the surface, and can also lead to its further destruction.
Do not take sea and polluted swamp water, water from puddles, from heating systems for solution. The masonry mixture may acquire undesirable properties. Only clean water (drinking) is suitable.
When using a dry ready-mix, never pour it into the container first. Pour water first. Otherwise, dry, undissolved pieces will inevitably remain in the corners.

Read on for how to clean ceramic tiles from old mortar.

How to clean the tile from the old mortar?

Tile work is not considered “clean” - after them, you inevitably have to clean up. Including the surface of the tile itself to clean from the masonry mixture that accidentally got there. It is important to hurry here, without waiting until the solution seizes tightly and becomes difficult to clean.

The easiest way for housewives to cope with the work is if a dry mixture gets on the tile. In this case, we only need clean water and a rag (sponge). It's a matter of five minutes to wipe the surface to a shine.
If the cement mortar got on the wall (or floor) when wet, then you need to act quickly - within an hour. At this time, the composition is still quite soft and easily removed. Ordinary water, without the use of "chemistry".
You will have to tinker with a dried mortar stain. And the higher, the more difficult the work. A poor-quality mixture can be easily washed off with water; a good solidified solution must be softened in an acidic environment. Taking, for example, vinegar, lemon juice, ammonia. Adhesive ready-made compositions in a frozen form are torn off even more difficult. They are also softened with acids, in no case using hot water (it will increase the viscosity).
And if the solution is old, long dried up? This will probably be the biggest problem. Here you can not do without a special wash. It will have to be bought at the store. In particular, it can be a composition based on acetone, hydrochloric acid, white spirit, surfactants.

If all efforts did not give the desired result, you will have to act in the old fashioned way, wielding a spatula, grinder, scrapers, a metal stiff brush, sandpaper and other mechanical devices. The main thing - do not overdo it, otherwise you can accidentally damage the surface of the tile.

The video below will tell you more about how to remove the old grout from the tile:

In order to securely fix the tiles on the wall, you should use a cement mortar or a mortar based on a dry adhesive mixture. These compounds are easy to make yourself at home. How to do it? Read our instructions.

Making cement mortar

The easiest way to lay tiles is to use a cement mixture. The cement mixture is a solution of cement (the higher its grade, the better the quality of the solution) and sand. Pour them with water and mix thoroughly until a homogeneous creamy mass is obtained. The ratio of cement and sand in the facing mortar is 1:4.

Preparing a dry adhesive mixture

To create a store-bought dry mix adhesive:

1. Wear a respirator or gauze bandage to protect your airways.
2. Pour 3 liters of room temperature water into a clean 10 liter bucket.
3. Gradually add the finished adhesive mixture to the container, constantly stirring the composition (the resulting mass should eventually occupy about 2/3 of the bucket).
4. Finish mixing the composition, carefully destroying all lumps. Use a trowel or whisk clamped in a handheld electric drill.
5. To enhance the adhesion of the mixture, add PVA glue to the solution (0.5 liters per 10 liters of the finished composition).
6. Wait 5-10 minutes, allowing the contents of the bucket to settle, and mix thoroughly again.

Cooking tile adhesive (video):

A few of the main elements that are used in ceramic tiling are the mixture and crosses for laying tiles. And it is the mixture that becomes a rather interesting point, since there are a number of its varieties, and in addition, you can use both a regular solution and special adhesive compositions.

Mix for tiles and its features

When solving cladding with tiles, the first step is to finish the walls. For these elements, you can use a conventional solution, which is made on the basis of sand and cement, as well as ready-made adhesives.

Ready-made glue can be sold both in the form of a mixture already prepared for use, and in the form of a powdered material, which additionally needs to be diluted. Preparation of mixtures is carried out strictly according to the instructions on the package.

Ready-made dry compositions are cement with the addition of a special modifying agent. Usually found in packages of 5 or 25 kg.

Some nuances

Considering the floor cladding, it should be noted that it is large, in contrast to the walls, which exceeds 3 mm. And because what solution is needed for the tile will be determined by some factors.

First of all, the evenness of the base. Since in the presence of irregularities, it is advisable to use a cement mortar, which will not only serve as glue, but also help smooth out the irregularities. In this case, the thickness of the solution layer can reach 3 cm. In turn, the use of ready-made adhesive mixtures requires a perfectly flat surface.
The type of tile is also an important factor. Considering, for example, porcelain stoneware, this material has low adhesion, therefore, a mixture for laying tiles of this type should contain special plasticizers that improve this indicator.
The human factor, or rather, the economic one, also has an impact. Since a self-prepared mixture is cheaper than a ready-made one, therefore, if everything indicates the possibility of using a standard cement mortar, then it is better to use it.

Speaking, by the way, about the issue of savings, there are also several factors here:

When finishing a cement base, the solution will be spent slightly more than when laying on concrete.
There is also another factor regarding tiles. In particular, glazed will require less solution for itself than unglazed.

Structure and composition

Considering the finished adhesive for laying tiles on the floor, it is almost impossible to fully know the composition, since this is the secret of the manufacturer. A big plus of such mixtures is that they are divided into different types, designed for different operating conditions and surfaces. Thus, we can distinguish:

Universal glue. It is used in standard conditions for flat surfaces.
Reinforced, which is often used when laying fragile tiles.
Non-traditional compositions designed, for example, for glass or metal tiles.

At the same time, the standard composition of the cement mortar is known to everyone. It also adds cement and sand in various proportions, depending on the brand of the first element. In particular:

With cement M300 - 3 parts of sand.
For M400 - 4 parts of sand.
For M500 or M600 - 5 parts.

The sand itself must be sifted, which is done to remove debris and clay.

If necessary, enhance adhesion, also add standard PVA glue. It is added in a ratio of 1 to 50, where the first value is the proportion of glue, and the second is the proportion of the total amount of the mixture. To put it more clearly, for 10 liters of solution, 200 g of glue is added.

Also, when laying tiles, the tile adhesive does not always meet the requirements for elasticity and water resistance.

In some cases, detergents can be used to increase elasticity. For example, liquid soap, shampoo or diluted powder.

If it is necessary to improve frost resistance, then special additives are used for this, for example, Primer EC-30. It is a universal hardening accelerator, which, accordingly, gives resistance to low temperatures.

Solution preparation

Now it is necessary to consider the preparation of both the finished composition and the one made independently.

Ready dry mix

Let's start with the finished mixture. In this case, the first step is to carefully read the instructions, which are usually located on the package. In some cases, additionally attached.

The main thing is not to pour water into the dry mixture, but to do the opposite.. Otherwise, lumps will remain, which will affect the quality. The cooking process itself is as follows:

An important factor is the temperature of the water. It should not be cold, warm or hot. The liquid is used strictly at room temperature. Otherwise, the components of the composition may lose their properties. Directly the temperature in the room during the work should be in the range from 10 to 24 degrees.

At the recommended temperature, the floor tile mix hardens quite quickly, so large batches are not recommended. It is advisable to prepare as much glue as you can use within 30-40 minutes.

As you know, tiles are often soaked before laying, and the base itself is moistened. When laying on glue, this is not recommended.

Homemade cement mortar

In the case when a self-preparation solution is chosen, and not an adhesive for laying tiles on the floor, you need to clearly know how to prepare it, which we will discuss further.

The preparation is as follows:

Tiles before such laying, while the period of being in water is 8-10 hours. Just soak one tile to begin with, because if you come across a material of poor quality, then as a result, ugly yellow spots will appear under the enamel, which will ruin the whole look of the room.

If, after soaking and laying on cement, the sample has not lost its appearance, then the entire tile is soaked. If soaking is not possible, then immediately before laying it is necessary to wipe the back side with a damp cloth.

When laying floor tiles with self-made tile adhesive is done on a concrete base, the job is somewhat simplified. In this case, a sufficient process will be to pour water on the surface, and pour cement through a sieve. Next, the tiles are laid on the resulting "dough".

Most Common Mistakes

Quite often, when quick laying of tiles is planned, a number of mistakes are made when preparing the mortar:

Often one comes across poor quality sand, not sifted and not dried, and in a hurry this is used.
Also, an unacceptable mistake is the use of old cement, which often loses its properties.
Only clean water should be used, in no case should sea water or dirty, settled water be used.
The mixture must be thoroughly mixed so that no lumps remain, which entails a loss of quality.
It is also a mistake to lay tiles with increased requirements (for example, porcelain stoneware) on a standard adhesive mixture or cement mortar.

It was a series of mistakes when using cement mortar, now consider the use of ready-made compounds:

The use of cold or hot water is strictly prohibited.
You can not fill the mixture first, and then pour water, in which case lumps will form.
Do not soak the tile or moisten the base.
Containers for cooking must be clean, after each batch it is necessary to clean and wash.
It is necessary to stir the composition at a low speed of rotation of the mixer. At a high speed, the mixture will foam, at a low speed, lumps will remain.

And finally, a little advice, if you plan to lay tiles on tiles, our article on this topic will help you decide.

This "aged" technology of laying tiles on the floor has several advantages. No floor preparation is required for laying tiles with special leveling of the surface. It is enough to keep the general horizontal. In addition, expensive adhesive mixtures are not used here, and cement mortar is used to lay tiles on the floor. This method of laying tiles is best suited for relatively large
secondary premises where it is not required to withstand design solutions, and it is not necessary to seal tile joints with colored compounds.
In this technology, both pure cement and its mixture with sand in a one-to-one ratio can be used. In any case, before starting work, the cement mixture must be sieved through a fine sieve.

Before the mass laying of tiles on the floor, beacons are placed. They are also placed in the center at the corners of the room, and if the room is large, then along the walls and along the center lines. The lighthouse is actually the same tile, only laid on a gypsum mortar so that it can be easily removed later. The first beacon sets the overall level of the floor, so it must be placed especially carefully in the highest place. Further, using the level, the remaining beacons are set, strictly in a horizontal plane with the starting point (beacon).

The concrete base is filled with water, and covered with a sand-cement mixture. A liquid solution is formed on the floor, in which the tiles will be laid. The sufficient thickness of the layer of the resulting mortar is at least 3 mm, and in case of irregularities, the cement-sand mixture can be added up to 30 mm. The tile itself is not lubricated with mortar before laying on the floor.

The tile is laid in a row between the beacons, while it is pressed into the solution, and its position is controlled by the rule and the level. After that, the beacons in the row are removed, and mortar tiles are laid in their place. The squeezed solution is immediately removed and used elsewhere.

The laid tiles are allowed to fix for at least one day. After that, to fill the tile joints, a liquid solution is poured onto the floor, which fills these joints.

After 2 - 3 days, the remaining cement from the tile is wiped off with a rag soaked in a 3% hydrochloric acid solution, which is washed off with water after a few minutes.

Of course, this technology does not correspond to modern ideas about laying tiles on the floor. The strength, durability, and water resistance of such a tiled flooring is in doubt. But the technology of laying tiles on a cement-sand mortar immediately over large areas has its advantages - low cost and high speed of work.

The operation of the floor can begin no earlier than 7 days after laying the tiles.

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