Clinker tiles with their own hands. Laying facade tiles with do-it-yourself jointing - step by step instructions. Which products to choose

Facade plaster Knauf or any other well-known manufacturer can help make the walls of your house perfectly even and smooth. However, if you want to make the facade of your house unique, original and unusual, or just save on its cladding, the easiest way to do this is to make the tiles yourself. Do-it-yourself facade tile It is made quite simply and you do not need any specific tools or knowledge.

In order for the facade tile to be of high quality with your own hands, it is important not to save on components. The freshness and quality of the material used, its brand and the reliability of the manufacturer are the keys to success in making good tiles.

Another very important point is the use of water. It is highly recommended to reduce the amount of water added to the solution as much as possible. This is how you can increase the strength of your tiles. Reduce the amount of water by adding plasticizers. Or, initially, use the highest quality cement.

Additionally, raw tiles can also be impregnated with a special deep penetration acrylic impregnation. This will also help increase the strength and water repellency of the tile.

What you need to make tiles with your own hands

To make tiles at home you will need:

Several buckets, a drill, a spatula, scales, a table, chipboard sheets (slightly larger in size than the form).
Cement brand 500 gray or white.
Filler (sand with a grain size not larger than 5 mm).
inorganic pigments.
Gypsum retarder (or citric acid).
plasticizer.

Step by step tile making process

Buy tile molds.
Buy and fold a vibrating table.
Knead the mixture from which the tiles will be made.
Form a shape on a vibrating table. Before pouring the mixture into molds, they must be treated with an anti-stick compound, soapy water or an antiseptic. Pour the mixture, dyed in the color of your choice, into the molds.
Let the product lie in the molds for several days so that they harden well. After that, carefully bend the forms from the corners and remove the resulting tile from them. Lay it out on a separate table and let it dry completely for some more time.
Make ready-made tiles formwork.
Use your tile for its intended purpose.

This kind of tile is, in fact, an artificial stone. Therefore, facing the facade of the house with artificial stone can also be of its own manufacture. For the exterior cladding of the building, the stone is made from cement, and for the interior, a stone made on a gypsum basis is used.

Before proceeding with the cladding of the building, it is necessary to prepare its surface. This process is no different from preparing for applying any other facing material.

If your facade is cinder block, concrete or brick, you will only need to level it. Remove bumps or pits that protrude from the surface of the solution.

If the lining will be carried out on a wooden surface, the preparation will be somewhat different. The facade will need to be covered with glassine, roofing felt or waterproofing material. A plaster reinforcing mesh is then attached to the waterproofing layer, and then cement-sand plaster or any other plaster composition is applied. And only after it is completely dry, you can proceed to the decoration of the facade.

Directly applying the stone to the surface of the facade is carried out in a “wet” way, that is, using cement glue. In order for it to grab well, it is very important that there is a positive temperature outside at this time (ideally +6 to +26 ° C).

Thus, your facing of the facade of the house with artificial stone will be unique, you will definitely be sure of its composition and save significantly on building materials.

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Facade cladding with tiles successfully competes with painting, so the demand for durable, aesthetic facade tiles is high. Based on demand, manufacturers offer various types of high-quality cladding, differing in material, format and color, but the material you like is not always affordable. In this situation, it is possible to reduce the cost of finishing the facade by making facade tiles with your own hands.

You don't need a lot of space to make tiles.

The choice of molds for casting tiles

In the conditions of the enterprise, facade tiles are made in ways of which only one is suitable for home conditions - vibration casting. At the same time, it should be taken into account that the prices for high-quality molds are quite high, the turnover of molds for casting facade tiles is up to 1500 cycles, so it makes no sense to buy them for the manufacture of 5-10 square meters of decoration. But, if the amount of cladding work is significant, the cost of buying molds or making them yourself from polymeric materials will provide significant cash savings.

The use of primitive home-made molds from improvised materials during casting, although it is a less expensive option for performing work, does not guarantee the aesthetics of the finish.

Silicone molds can withstand a huge number of castings

Molds for casting tiles according to the material of manufacture are divided into 3 types:

silicone;
plastic;
polyurethane.

Of the listed types, polyurethane molds are suitable for the manufacture of facade tiles at home, since silicone molds are fragile, and products from plastic molds, due to their glossy surface, are unlike natural stone.

The process of manufacturing facade tiles by vibrocasting consists of the following steps:

Form making.
Solution preparation.
Pouring solution into moulds.
Extraction of products.

Let's consider these stages in more detail.

Making a wood tile mold is the easiest way

Production of polyurethane molds for facade tiles

First of all, you need to decide what kind of tiles the facade will be finished with, think over its dimensions, format and configuration of the front surface. A rational solution would be to temporarily borrow several samples of natural stone products from a professional workshop, which it was decided to imitate. These samples will be used as matrices in the manufacture of do-it-yourself molds.

Molds for making polyurethane tiles

Mold making material

For the manufacture of the molds themselves, it is necessary to purchase a two-component polyurethane casting compound, for example, Nomacon-TM KPTD-1, Formosil or Poly. These compositions, prepared in the right proportions with a hardener and poured into the formwork, turn into a durable elastic product that is resistant to mechanical damage, vibration, chemicals, low temperatures and humidity.

Formwork manufacturing and matrix installation

As a base for the formwork, a piece of Plexiglas is used a little larger than the area of \u200b\u200bthe stone and the sample is placed on it with the face up. The excess of the stone above the level of the base is measured and around the sample at a distance of 2-3 cm, the contour of the future formwork is applied with a marker.

The stone is removed from the base and a rectangular formwork made by hand from the same plexiglass is attached to the plexiglass along the applied contour with silicone sealant "For Aquariums". The height of the formwork should be 1.5-2 cm more than the height of the sample. Then the sample is put in place, the joint of the stone with the base is covered with the same silicone and the product is allowed to dry for a day.

Mold for pouring fence slabs

If the sample material has a high porosity, then its surface is covered with a thin layer of a solution of paraffin in kerosene or white spirit in a ratio of 1:2, which will act as a release agent and facilitate the removal of the matrix from the hardened polyurethane mass. The separator needs an hour to dry.

Preparation of a solution for pouring

After the glue has dried, the preparation of the polyurethane mass for pouring begins.

In two separate dry and clean containers, the required quantities of polymer and hardener are poured in the right proportion. Then they are poured into a third dry and clean container and thoroughly mixed with their own hands, touching the walls of the container.

When working with the components of the compound, protective clothing, gloves and goggles should be used, avoiding direct contact of the polymer with the body. If the solution comes into contact with the skin, immediately wash it off with running water and detergent!

Before pouring the formwork with the compound, it is necessary to cover the matrix with a thin layer of polyurethane with a dry brush to reduce the number of air bubbles that form on the sample surface when the bulk of the mixture is applied.

One of the corners of the base is raised, and the filling of the formwork with polymer is started from the lower corner, simultaneously introducing the composition and lowering the raised corner. With a horizontal position of the base, the thickness of the polyurethane layer above the upper point of the matrix should be 2-3 cm.

The compound, depending on the type, hardens in about a day, after which they begin to extract the matrix.

Matrix extraction

A day after pouring, the formwork is dismantled, cutting the places of gluing with silicone with a clerical knife. The matrix in polyurethane is turned upside down and the degree of curing of the polymer is evaluated, since it may take up to three days for the final solidification. If the compound is not completely frozen, the stone is left in it until the solution is completely fixed.

Several matrices can be made at the same time to make tiles of different shapes

The frozen polyurethane mold is carefully separated from the surface of the matrix with your own hands, trying not to damage the surface texture, which repeats the structure of the stone.

So that the facade decoration is not primitive or monotonous, it is necessary to make at least 5 forms using different matrices.

Preparation of mortar for molding tiles

There are many recipes for preparing a solution, but cement-based formulations are widely used. For the manufacture of the main component for pouring into molds, the following technology can serve:

2 parts of sand are mixed with one part of water for 1-2 minutes, after which 4 parts of cement and 2 parts of water are added and mixed for 2-3 minutes. Then, 8 parts of sand and one part of water are gradually added to the solution and mixed, after which a dye is added to the mixture in an amount of not more than 4-5% of the total volume of the batch. Using white M500 cement instead of the usual gray Portland cement will result in a tile with more saturated tones.

In the manufacture of facade tiles with their own hands, fillers from small crumbs of natural stone (granite, marble, limestone) are also used, which increase the strength characteristics of products and similarity with natural stone finishes. To do this, out of 8 parts of sand during kneading, 4 parts are replaced with crumbs.

Facade tile molding

The molds are placed on a working vibrating table and filled with a ready-made solution using a trowel - a narrow mason's trowel. If the composition of the solution does not include fillers from natural crumbs and dye, then the pigment is first introduced into the molds with a layer of 1-1.5 cm, after which they are gradually filled flush with the edges with the main composition. This allows you to get a tile with a front surface evenly colored to a depth of 1.5-2 cm.

Given the high cost of the vibrating table and the laboriousness of making it yourself, you can do without it when molding tiles. If a sheet of steel or chipboard (chipboard) is installed on two supports, and polyurethane molds are placed on it, then the mixture in the molds can be compacted by tapping on the sheet from below with a hammer.

After compaction of the form, trying not to deform, they transfer it to a horizontal surface for two days. During this time, the products are not moved or touched.

Exposure of forms and products to direct sunlight and high temperatures is unacceptable, as this reduces the strength of the tile and the turnover of polyurethane forms.

Removing products from molds

For the correct extraction of the cliche with the product for several minutes to increase the elasticity of the polymer, they are placed in a container with water at a temperature of 40-60 degrees. The tile is removed by hand, tapping on the polyurethane with a rubber mallet, and until fully cured, it is laid in one layer in a cool place for 7-10 days.

Conclusion

With a significant amount of finishing work, this technology provides significant cost savings, and the quality of the facing material made by oneself, although inferior to industrial designs, is quite high.

For exterior decoration of building facades, a special facing material is used - facade tiles. It is made from mineral mixtures, which may include cement, quartz sand, shale or clay. Do-it-yourself production of facade tiles is carried out on special equipment, which allows you to achieve the desired technical and decorative qualities of the coating.

What is a facade tile?

Facade tiles are an environmentally friendly facing material that is used not only for finishing the facades of houses, but also for paving open areas or paths. The service life of such a coating is much longer than that of facade plaster. That is why facing materials have become so popular in the exterior decoration of buildings.

What types of tiles for facade cladding are there?

terracotta;
clinker;
glass coated;
with ceramic coating;
two-layer with decorative ceramic finishing.

Features of facade tiles

Whatever materials you decide to make a facing material, it will have the following qualities:

high strength;
low level of water absorption;
frost resistance;
wear resistance;
long service life.

By selecting the shape of the appropriate configuration, it is possible to create coatings with various shapes (triangular, square, polyhedral, asymmetric). This allows you to decorate buildings in almost any style. However, it should be understood that the independent production of facade tiles is fraught with some difficulties. In particular, this applies to the acquisition or assembly of the necessary equipment.

The nuances of the production of tile materials

If you want to get really high-quality and durable material at the output, in no case try to save on raw materials. Making facade tiles at home is already quite a risky undertaking for those who are faced with such a process for the first time. But if you strictly follow the recommendations of experienced craftsmen, as a result of molding a properly prepared solution, you will certainly get a durable facing material.

What points should be paid special attention to?

The amount of water - solutions that are too liquid in consistency, as a rule, solidify unevenly, which leads to cracking of the material. To avoid this, do not add too much water to the mixture;
Addition of plasticizers- to improve the physical and mechanical properties of the coating, add plasticizers to the raw material;
Cement is a fortress and, accordingly, coatings are largely determined by the quality of cement. In the production of tile coating, it is desirable to use cement not lower than grade M200.

Necessary equipment

What equipment is required for the production of facade tiles? To create a high-quality coating, you must purchase the following equipment:

Concrete mixer - if the amount of work is small, you can use an ordinary construction mixer to mix the components of the raw materials. But in the case of using such equipment, mixing the components of the solution should take no less than received;
Vibrating table - the vibrating surface of the table during the molding process allows you to compact the solutions, which affects the density of the future coating. If necessary, it can be assembled independently by attaching a construction vibrator to a metal table;
Forms - directly in the forms and the raw material will solidify. To make such structures, it is enough to assemble a wooden frame of the required shape, fastening the parts with metal corners.

Of course, by purchasing professional equipment for the manufacture of facade tiles, you can achieve much better results. In particular, this applies to forms. If it is necessary to create a tile that imitates natural stone or brick, matrices with a corrugated surface will be required.

The process of making tiles

The manufacturing technology of facade tiles is quite simple, but requires careful implementation of all stages of work. What materials are required to pour the concrete solution into the mold?

containers for diluting the solution;
construction mixer and spatula;
cement (not lower than grade m500);
plasticizers;
pigments for dyeing raw materials;
sand.

So, the direct process of production of tile materials consists of the following steps:

In a container, a solution of the above components is diluted;
Using a construction mixer, the components of the mixture are mixed until the mass is homogeneous;
Forms are placed on the vibrating table and the concrete mixture is poured into them;
So that when removing the tile does not get stuck, the molds are initially coated with soapy water;
The semi-finished product is covered with polyethylene and left for several days;
Then the half-dried tile is laid out and left for another couple of days until it is completely cured.

The process of production of tile materials is shown in more detail in the video clip.

Manufacturers overview

To choose really high-quality tiles, you need to give preference only to the most popular and well-established manufacturers. These include:

Stroeher, a German manufacturer of tile materials, adds mineral granules and modifying components to the composition of the raw materials, which improve the frost resistance of the coating. Stroeher façade tiles have a 25-year lifetime warranty;
King Klinker is one of the best Polish cladding companies producing high quality tiles with very low water absorption. Polymer compounds are added to the solution before molding, forming a protective film on the surface of the tile;
Lithos - facade tiles are made by hyper-pressing from a cement composition with the addition of kaolin substances. Due to this, the coating has high technical indicators, such as strength and frost resistance.

Making facade tiles is a relatively simple process that requires the master to accurately perform work at all stages. At the same time, the quality of the future coating is largely determined by the composition of the raw material and the homogeneity of the prepared solution.

A few years ago, I really liked the interior in one of the films, finished with tiles imitating natural stone. After that, I began to study this issue. Of course, you can buy artificial stone in a hardware store. But the price is pretty decent. And if you decorate a room with artificial stone, the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls of which starts, as a rule, from 18-25 square meters and above, the amount turns out to be decent at all. Is it possible to find a way to make artificial stone at home. It turned out it wasn't all that difficult. The main costs are for the purchase of molds for pouring tiles. I found a company that specializes in making flexible polyurethane molds. Moreover, the thickness of the tile is the minimum possible. This is also a plus - fewer consumables, less weight tiles. Yes, and the cost of the forms is quite real.

And so I acquired forms.

How to make facing tiles?

Well, firstly, the artificial stone facing tile is essentially a decorative facing stone

Secondly, decorative facing stone can be of two types:

For use in interiors - on a plaster basis;

For external finishing of buildings - on a cement basis.

The very essence of manufacturing can be formulated as follows: a liquid solution (gypsum or cement) is poured into the prepared form, painted in a certain color. After the mortar has set, the painted tile with a characteristic surface is removed from the mold, in accordance with the mold.

The whole point of technology lies in the correct selection of components.

And the ratio of all components are selected empirically. It all depends on the quality, freshness of the material, brand, manufacturer and other properties.

There is one general rule: to minimize the amount of water to mix the solution. This will increase the strength of the manufactured tiles. Reducing the amount of water can be achieved by adding plasticizers, as well as using high grade cement or gypsum.

The manufacturing process can be divided into three stages:

STAGE ONE
Preparing tools and utensils.

For the manufacture of decorative facing stone, you will need

Plastic buckets 2-3 pcs;

Drill with a nozzle;

Spatula 50 cm wide;

Scales or steelyard;

Chipboard sheets (possible from old furniture) are slightly larger in size than the mold.

Preparation of raw materials.

Cement white or gray grade 500 (if facade tiles are being made);

Gypsum grade not lower than G-7 - G-8, the best option is GVVS-16 grade gypsum (if an interior decorative stone is being made);

Filler (sand fraction not larger than 0-5 mm) You can not add to gypsum.

Organic dyes (can only be used for gypsum) or inorganic iron oxide pigments.

plasticizer

Gypsum setting retarder (citric acid).

STAGE TWO
Form preparation

Lay the clean form on a chipboard sheet, paint over the form with soapy water to prevent sticking. With a pigment of a certain color diluted in a small amount of water, paint over individual sections of the form.

STAGE THREE
Stone making.

Measure the required amount of gypsum (cement) and filler into a bucket, mix with a drill with a nozzle, adding the required amount of pigments. Measure water into the second bucket, add a plasticizer (if you need to add a retarder) and pour prepared gypsum (cement) into it. Mix with a drill with a nozzle. The solution should turn out in the form of thick sour cream. After that, evenly pour into the prepared form. Gently take the edge of the chipboard sheet and shake it a little (create the effect of “boiling liquid”) so that all air bubbles come out of the solution. With a wide spatula, level and clean off the excess mortar so that the edges of the mold are visible.

After setting the solution (for gypsum it is 20 minutes, for cement - 24 hours), move the form to the edge of the sheet and carefully, starting from the corners, bend the flexible form down. After that, you can remove the finished tile.

After all the tiles are removed from the mold, lay them out on a second table for final drying.

In addition, I also impregnate the raw tile with deep penetration acrylic impregnation (to increase strength and water-repellent effect). Some tile options (slate, facing brick) are painted over with a pigment dissolved in water. I dry the tiles on a wide board, with large nails driven into it at an angle. That is, I put the tile on the corner of the rib and rest it on the nails. So it dries out faster.

It is best to make decorative facing stone in the summer right on the street. But drying should be done in the shade, a place closed from the wind (so that dust does not stick) and sheltered from the rain.

I buy gypsum and cement in construction stores, and I buy pigments and plasticizer in the same company along with forms.

This is how, using a simple technology, you can make a decorative artificial stone at home.

Igor Robertovich, Chelyabinsk asks a question:

I heard that do-it-yourself brick clinker tiles are made very simply, but they didn’t explain the work technology to me. Now he has built a cottage, and the question arose of finishing the facade. I have not yet decided what to do: buy ready-made material or try to make tiles myself? I would like to know the advantages of clinker tiles, the features of manufacturing and installation, in order to do the decoration with my own hands. Thank you in advance.

The expert answers:

Do-it-yourself brick clinker tiles are made using a silicone mold and the use of simple materials: gypsum, cement, sand and color.

Manufacturing technology is simple. First, a tile model is made from plasticine, covered with silicone and waiting for drying. 2 cans of silicone sealant are enough for 2 molds. Next, a solution is prepared: 2 portions of gypsum, 1 portion of sand, 1 portion of cement.

Color is added, everything is stirred and poured into the mold. After 15 minutes the product is ready. You can dry it in the oven or on a stove bench. So that the tile does not crumble and does not smear, it must be covered with a primer.

A homemade product will not have the characteristics of a factory-made material, but sometimes this is a good way out of a difficult situation.

Clinker tiles from the manufacturer are a type of ceramics. It has high strength, due to the long firing of clay at high temperature. It is easy to work with, but the price is several times higher than that of ceramic tiles.

If you do not have work experience, read the instructions and watch a video that will show the installation and manufacturing features.

The technology of laying clinker tiles under brick does not differ much from laying ordinary ceramic tiles. Regardless of whether you will be laying tiles on a concrete or plastered surface, the surface must be flat, cleaned of dirt and covered with soil.

It is necessary to choose the right glue. For facades, you need high-quality material that does not absorb moisture and is resistant to low temperatures.

Clinker well withstands dampness, frost, sunlight. It does not need further maintenance if the seams between the tiles are well worn.

Work is carried out according to the generally accepted scheme.

Main stages of work:

surface leveling;
markup;
mixing the adhesive solution;
laying tiles;
sealing seams.

Tools used:

level;
drill with mixer;
putty knife;
container for glue;
paint cord.

The wall is leveled and primed. On a concrete wall, you need to put a rough layer of plaster with the installation of a facade mesh. If the wall is well leveled, then the tile is moistened only with water or a small layer of glue. The thickness of the seam is due to special removable inserts or a rod.

It is necessary to mark the wall with a water level and a paint cord. Usually work starts from the second row, because the first basement row is laid out last. Sometimes work begins along the guide, which is laid out according to the level from the bottom in the second row.

Laying should start from window and door openings or from corners. We apply glue with a notched trowel and combine the tiles relative to each other according to the principle of brickwork.

The tile adhesive is applied with a spatula with a tooth depth of about 10 mm. The product under the brick is placed in a run, as with brickwork. For laying corners, you need to use corner elements that will help imitate brickwork and speed up the work process.

When laying clinker tiles under a brick with their own hands, a rod is sometimes used. To lay the next seam, a rod is placed on top of the previous one to ensure a uniform arrangement of the material.

Then, when the glue dries, the rod or inserts are removed and the joint is filled with grout mortar. The seams must be carefully sealed to prevent water from getting under the tiles. The solution is prepared using a mixer, using the manufacturer's recommendations.

A house lined with clinker tiles looks solid, stylish, attractive, and the facade will not fade or dilapidate even after a long time.

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