Ventilated ridge for soft roofing: principles of arrangement and installation. Flexible tile roofing: how to cover the roof with your own hands Laying ridge tiles on hip roofs

Today, soft roofs not only occupy a leading position in the market, but have become a real discovery for designers and architects. Many styles, individual solutions and the possibility of easy implementation on a roof with a complex structure - what more could you want? The main thing is to achieve absolute tightness between the shingles, on which the durability of the entire coating depends. And the installation of flexible tiles will be within your power, believe me, even if you are faced with this type of work for the first time!

Therefore, if you carefully read our advice, then with the help of one more person you will cover even a large roof area. The fact is that even in the factory, the shingles are prepared for gluing, applying a special solution to the bottom layer, and they even make four holes so that you know exactly where to drive the roofing nails. And now we will tell you about all the intricacies of working with a soft roof.

Once the roof frame is ready, install the vapor barrier like a solid carpet on the inside of the roof, without gaps, and fix it to the rafters with wooden planks. On the same strips you will then fasten the inner lining of the attic.

Now take care of the vapor barrier. If the attic is cold, then all the moisture will come out of it by itself, with the help of natural ventilation. But in the case of a residential attic, vapor barrier is necessary. For this purpose, an additional bar is stuffed on the rafters, a vapor barrier film is rolled out with an overlap and glued with special adhesive tape (the usual one does not fit!).

Next, from the outside, lay the selected insulation on the vapor barrier film, preferably spaced apart. Cover with a windproof membrane on top and fix with bars, which will also later serve to create ventilation ducts.

As a result, you should get such a “layer cake”, as roofers like to call it:

We have prepared for you a detailed master class on how and in what order everything should happen:

As you can see from the above photos, it was not difficult to lay the flexible sheets on the curved lucarnes!

Step 2. Installing solid decking

For the installation of flexible tiles, a rigid solid base is required. Therefore, on the prepared crate, mount a solid carpet of plywood or OSB-boards, with a gap of 3-5 mm, which is necessary for deformation from temperature and moisture, and fix it to the rafters with self-tapping screws.

The main requirement for the base for shingles is a flat area and the ability to fix shingles with nails. For this, sheets of glued wood shavings like plywood or a tongue-and-groove board laid end-to-end are suitable. Only the board should be as dry as possible so that waves do not form during drying. But it is a big mistake to use only the crate itself under the soft roof, albeit more frequent, because already in the first season the entire roof will simply go in waves. And photos with such problems become a real asset for manufacturers who scare their customers with such mistakes.

Once the base is ready, reinforce the cornice overhang with metal strips. These are laid with an edge on the edge of the base and fastened with roofing nails, in increments of 150 mm, in a checkerboard pattern:

Step 3. Selecting and installing the substrate

Now is the time to take care of waterproofing. It is necessary in such difficult places as adjoining, joints and valleys. Here the canvases are laid from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm in the longitudinal and 15 cm in the transverse direction:

We recommend that you use a specially designed underlay, and not roofing paper or similar material, as is sometimes done. The fact is that they and the finishing roofing have different service life, and even conditions of use!

And such an attempt to save money will soon lead to swelling of the entire roofing carpet. In addition, no manufacturer will guarantee a roof that uses third-party materials in the pie.

By the way, until recently, lining carpets were practically not used in Russia, and even today many people strive to cheat. This is logical, because by the time the roof is built, it often turns out that the planned budget for the whole house is not enough, and you have to make concessions. But, if you want to lay a flexible tile roofing and forget about it for many decades, then do not give up such an important element.

There is always a risk that water will seep into the roof space, especially in difficult places such as bypassing chimneys or making contact with an installed antenna. There are also emergency situations when a strong wind lifts the shingles during a downpour.

Moreover, it is not difficult to pick up a roofing carpet, because. it is subject to the same requirements as for tiles: to be resistant to temperature extremes, provide reliable waterproofing and serve for a long time. And the modern market provides many options, both imported and domestic. Moreover, many plants in Russia today operate on European equipment and are not inferior to foreign analogues in terms of product quality.

In general, lining carpets are of two types: self-adhesive and mechanically fixed. Self-adhesive ones are laid mainly in valleys, and mechanical ones are rolled out on the remaining area of \u200b\u200bthe roof and fixed with galvanized nails:

Here is the process of installing a conventional roofing carpet, which will need to be fixed with bituminous mastic:

Here is an example of working with a more modern self-adhesive roofing mat:

So, for a valley, a self-adhesive waterproofing carpet is ideal. And, if the slopes have a slope of more than 18 degrees, then consider laying the carpet in all places of possible leaks, and these are: ribs, ridges, gable overhang and all the exits of roofing elements.

But on a roof with a slope of 12 to 18 degrees, you will need a continuous waterproofing carpet. Prior to this, we recommend putting a self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material on the cornice overhangs, for example, "Barrier", and at the same time strive to ensure that the carpet itself is without overlap - continuous along the entire length:

Also insulate ventilation passages, areas around skylights and chimneys in advance. Before the installation of flexible tiles, coat all the passage elements with bituminous mastic with your own hands - this is not difficult.

Before you start laying shingles, you will also need to reinforce the eaves. You need to fix them with roofing nails in increments of 10-15 cm. Here is an informative video lesson from the company on this topic:

Step 4. Selecting fasteners

To fix flexible shingles, you will need special wide-head nails. It will be extremely important to nail them so that the hat is in the same plane with the surface of each shingle, and at the same time does not “crash” into it. In addition, nails for soft tiles must be galvanized.

Nails for mounting soft tiles are divided into the following types:

Roofing nails. They have such a sharpened point that when deepened into the bitumen layer, they do not violate its integrity. Such nails are produced galvanized or without a protective layer at all. Of course, unprotected ones are the cheapest, but at the same time they are not at all practical and quickly begin to rust. These are only suitable for assembling furniture or building temporary shelters.
Ruffed nails. On the working rod, they have special cloves that are directed towards the cap. These are not easily hammered into the wood, although it is quite difficult to pull them out even with a nail puller. And most often, in the process of dismantling, they simply cut off the head of the ruffed nails - and that's it. They fix the roofing so firmly that they are more often used for slate than for soft roofing.
club nails have longitudinal grooves and lintels on the working rod, and they are less suitable for soft roofing.

We recommend that you take exactly galvanized ruffed nails with a head diameter of 8-9 millimeters as roofing nails specifically for flexible tiles. They also produce special nails for bituminous shingles, and they differ from standard counterparts.

These are made of durable steel wire, which is automatically cut into equal pieces, then the workpiece is sharpened on one side, and riveted into a hat shape on the other. If you see these for sale, you can buy them.

But it is important at the same time that the nails themselves comply with GOST 4030-63: the diameter of the rod is 3.5 mm, and the diameter of the cap is at least 8 mm. The thing is that in working with concrete shingles, the most unpleasant moment is when the nails, at the next blow, simply sink into the bituminous layer and violate the integrity of the coating. But the extended hat will not be able to “drown” so easily. And the larger it is, the better it will hold the shingle, which is why high-quality nails for shingles resemble a pushpin. Moreover, for single-layer and two-layer tiles, you will need nails with parameters of 30x3.5 mm, and for a three-layer one - 45x3.5 mm.

By the way, some unfortunate builders do not understand why it is impossible to simply heat the sheets of soft tiles and stick them on the flooring, why nails and all the fuss associated with them? In fact, the use of open fire on such a roof is prohibited due to elementary fire safety considerations. So forget about this risky idea and rent an automatic device.

Step 5 Place the Starting Strip

And now we proceed directly to the laying of flexible tiles. It starts from the start line. As such, you can take:

a pattern from an ordinary tile, for example, a shingle with cut petals, if you are working with collections " Tango" or " Trio»;
universal ridge-cornice tiles, especially if you work with " Chord», « Sonata" or " Jazz».

If it is more convenient for you to start with the eaves shingles, lay them on top of the metal strip, stepping back a little from the place of the inflection. Next, nail it with nails, but keep in mind that the longer and steeper the slope, the greater should be the indent from the bend:

This is how laying the starting strip looks in practice:

Step 6. Installation of different types of shingles

Now let's unpack the shingles. The main requirement for their installation is dry, warm weather, because it is undesirable to lay bituminous tiles at temperatures below + 5 ° C, because. in areas where it will need to be bent, it will be difficult to do without cracks.

If you still have to fasten the shingles in such conditions, then prevention will be needed: the sheets are heated with a building hair dryer and bent on a metal pipe about 10 cm in diameter. But it's better not to do that.

Calculating the required number of shingles is not difficult: take one sheet, measure the area that will be visible, find out the area of \u200b\u200bthe slope and divide the second by the first. Here is a valuable tip on how to calculate and prepare flexible shingles for installation:

Of course, if you have a diamond eye, then detailed calculations can be dispensed with, but marking lines serve as excellent guides along which you can align the tiles both vertically and horizontally. Especially if you are laying a soft roof for the first time.

Believe me, tearing off a few sheets and attaching them again to fix a jamb is not the most fun thing. And absolutely without marking, if some element is embedded in the roof or the general geometry of the ramp is broken. In this case, you will be helped by such tools as a beating, a plumb line and a level.

As we have already said, for convenience, ready-made shingles are usually marked with small holes at the factory so that you know exactly where to hammer nails. If there are none (for example, the cheapest collections), then just step back 2-3 cm from the edge and be guided by this illustration:

In each case, the place where the nail is driven will directly depend on the shape of the cutting of the tile itself. It is only important that each nail pierces both the lower and upper edges of all sheets at the same time, and if you are laying flexible tiles on slopes with an angle of 45 °, then the upper corners of the shingle also need to be additionally fixed.

The whole procedure for laying flexible tiles is not complicated, here are the instructions for the process itself:

Before laying, mix the shingles from several sticks to minimize color variation. The fact is that even in one mail the color can differ so much that you will be surprised, and such incidents will be very noticeable on the roof.
If the slope is long enough, start laying tiles from its center and align it horizontally. And the second row - already shifting the shingles to the left or right by half a sheet. Move the third and all subsequent rows relative to the previous one, also half the petal, to the left or right, depending on which direction you chose initially.
You need to start laying tiles on a slope with a smaller slope, while you should enter a steeper slope by at least 30 cm. On a steeper slope, it is recommended to beat off the chalk lines so as not to go astray. Now cut the tiles on a steeper slope along this new line, and after fixing, coat with bituminous mastic where there is no self-adhesive layer on the back side.
Lay the tiles from the bottom up, stepping back from the edge of the drips. Here it will be necessary to lay a special ridge-cornice tile. By the way, you can replace it with a regular one if you cut the petals.

Now secure the shingles. An automatic tool is good for this, especially if it works from the mains. Most importantly, when choosing a model, take care of your own safety: the trigger must be comfortable, with protection against accidental firing and the ability to remove a stuck nail without any risk. After all, usually a hammer is more intended for small household chores, and professional roofers rarely use it.

The only point: if special roofing nails do not fit the gun, take a ready-made clip with nails with a wide flat head. They differ in that they are interconnected by a thin wire. Here such a tape is inserted into the chamber and the nail is fed one by one. This is much more convenient when working at height: no need to look for bunches, no need to put your fingers under the blow, and the fastening itself will be of better quality than when you are already too tired on the 501st nail. The main thing is to follow the basic technology: the nail must be driven in strictly perpendicular to the plane of the shingle.

Remember, if some shingle was fixed unreliably, then over time it will loosen its fastening and fly off with a gust of wind. And the nail itself, lifted from the wind, will tear the sheet, loosening the neighboring one. And all this will lead to leakage and the necessary repairs. Of course, it will not be possible to completely do without problem areas, which is why a periodic inspection of such a roof is needed.

Now consider the features of mounting shingles of different types. So, with a single-layer tile, before installation, you need to remove the protective film, which is always located on both sides of the shingle. Why is she? The fact is that this roofing is transported by ordinary trucks both in the heat and in the heat, but we are still talking about bitumen.

But in collections with such cuts as " dragon tooth”, there is no film, it is only important to choose a beautiful pattern or lay it randomly, simply by mixing the shingles.

And how exactly to work with each type of shingle cutting, the following illustrations will help you:

Further, if you have to work with a complex roof, you have two ways of laying shingles: segmented and seamless. In the first method, divide the corner or cone into equal segments, and lay out each of them separately. And in this way, cover the entire roof. The seamless method is already more complicated: here it is important to make the correct markup of the slope and navigate along it. Think and choose the one that seems more convenient to you.

Step 7. Fixing the tiles in the valleys

And now - about the most problematic places of the roof. Valleys, namely the internal bends of the roof, you can organize in two ways: open and closed, which is also called the undercut method. The main thing then is to make a triangular rail at the junction of the roof with the wall and put tiles under it.

In addition, if the wall is brick, it must be plastered and treated with a bituminous primer. The upper part of the junction should then be closed with a metal apron, which must be fixed and inserted into the strobes, and then sealed:

Step 8. Laying ridge and back tiles

Next, we will deal with the concepts of ridge tiles. As you might guess, these are the shingles that cover the ridge of the roof. All other tiles are called ordinary. By the way, spinal tiles are obtained when the ridge-eaves are divided into three parts, or they are cut out from the usual ordinary by perforation.

To properly lay the back tiles, with the help of a cord, beat off the dimensions of the future ridge - these are two strips along it, and lay the back tiles from the bottom up. Then fix the shingles with nails on each side and make sure that the overlap of the overlying shingles overlaps the nails by 5 cm.

The ridge tiles are laid from the side that is opposite to the so-called wind rose (you can find out about this from your neighbors or from the wind map). Further - everything is the same as during the laying of the ridge. If there is no self-adhesive layer in the right places, coat it with mastic.

Now let's move on to the ribs. Here, ordinary tiles should be cut so that a distance of 3 to 5 mm remains between adjacent slopes:

Here is another great tutorial where you can go over the details of the process:

And finally, finishing work. The laying of flexible tiles is always completed by installing a ridge aerator. To do this, a special groove is cut out along all the slopes, and an aerator is inserted into it. It is fixed with nails and covered with specially ridge tiles.

Also, for a soft roof, special additional elements are made - these are the lower parts of the roof passages, which are popularly called "skirts". And so that snow does not accumulate behind the ventilation and chimney pipes, especially when their cross section exceeds 50x50 cm, you need to organize a groove. In short, you will need the following elements:

So, your roof is ready, and it remains only to properly care for it. To do this, once every six months, use a soft brush to sweep all small debris from the roof, leaves and branches. The main thing is not to use sharp tools, because it is important not to scratch the basalt chips. And clean the gutters and funnels from time to time.

Luckily, shingle roofing is highly maintainable: just warm up the damaged area, remove it, and lay new tiles. A matter of one day!

Ridge or spine tiles are obtained by dividing the ridge-eaves tiles into 3 parts according to the places of perforation or cut out from ordinary tiles in a special way (Fig. 119).

Rice. 119. Pattern of ridge or ridge shingles from ordinary

Ordinary tiles facing the hip ridge are cut so that there is a 0.5 cm wide slot between the coverings of adjacent slopes. The dimensions of the future ridge are beaten off with a lace (two strips along the ridge). Roof shingles are laid from the bottom up. The tile is laid with the long side across the ridge. The tiles are fixed with four nails (two on each side) so that the overlap of 5 cm of the overlying tiles overlaps the nails.

The ridge is laid from the side opposite to the prevailing wind rose in the area. Otherwise, the installation of skates is similar to the method of mounting the ridges.

For cutting forms Trio, Sonata, Tango and Jazz, ridge-cornice tiles are cut from ordinary tiles. In this case, for the Sonata tile, part (A) is closed, part (B) is made visible.

When laying a pattern of ridge tiles, the back part in places where there is no self-adhesive layer is additionally smeared with TechnoNikol mastic. Otherwise, the installation of ribs / ridges using a pattern of ridge tiles is similar to the installation of ridge-cornice tiles (Fig. 120).

Rice. 120. Installation of ridge shingles

To prevent the formation of cracks in the cold season at temperatures below +5 ° C, it is recommended to bend the tiles on an artificially heated metal pipe with a diameter of about 10 cm.

To increase the service life of the under-roof structure, it is necessary to provide ventilation, especially above the operated attic floor. Normal ventilation of a pitched roof is provided by three main elements: openings for the inflow of outside air, channels above the thermal insulation for its circulation, and exhaust openings in the upper part of the roof. The norms for the cross-sectional area of the supply and exhaust ventilation are 1/300–1/500 of the insulation area. The pressure in the attic should be reduced, so the area of exhaust openings should be taken 10-15% more than the supply. This is necessary to create air draft.

Air entry into the under-roof space is provided by a cornice assembly. Its design is similar to the nodes given in the previous chapters.

Rice. 121. Installation of a ridge with a ventilation outlet on a roof made of soft tiles

The air outlet from the ventilation ducts is arranged using an additional wooden counter-lattice or using TechnoNikol ridge air elements (Fig. 121).

Roof break device

An internal fracture of mansard roofs is done with the installation of a valley carpet. External - with the installation of the starting strip (Fig. 122).

Rice. 122. Internal and external fractures of roofing from bituminous tiles

Execution of domes and cones

There are two recommended ways to install Shinglas tiles on curved surfaces: segmented and seamless. Initially, the TechnoNikol lining carpet is laid according to the chosen form of tile cutting. The first method involves dividing a dome or cone into equal segments using a beating. Each segment is laid separately with ordinary tiles, and the joints are covered with ridge tiles in the same way as the ribs and ridges of the roof. Moreover, the dimensions of the segments and the width of the ridge tiles must correspond to the scale of the covered roofing surface.

The seamless method requires special attention to the layout of the slope. At the base of the roof, chalk notches are made equal to half the petal of a flexible tile and connected to the top of the curved surface. Then it is necessary to cut the ordinary tiles into separate petals and mount the first row. The rows above are shifted by half of the underlying petal of the tile with preliminary trimming. Trimming of tiles is carried out according to the chalk lines made in advance. As soon as the width of the ordinary petal becomes half the original, we return to the original geometric size of the tile. In this sequence, installation is carried out to the top of the roof. The completion of the roof is made out with a metal cap (Fig. 123).

Rice. 123. Soft tile roofing on a conical roof

The condition of the roof must be checked in the spring and autumn. It is recommended to remove leaves, branches and other small debris from the roof with a soft brush. The use of sharp instruments is unacceptable. Objects on the roof with sharp corners must be removed manually. To ensure the free flow of water from the roof, it is necessary to clean the gutters and funnels as it becomes clogged.

If there is a threat of formation of a large layer of snow, it must be cleaned off using non-sharp wooden shovels. It is necessary to remove snow from the roof in layers, leaving a protective layer about 10 cm thick on the roof.

For the purpose of prevention, it is necessary to check and, if necessary, repair installation openings, holes, cracks and parts made of metal sheets.

The first thing people pay attention to when looking at a house is the roof, so they are very picky about the choice of topcoat. Soft photo is distinguished by its beautiful appearance, variety of colors, patterns, low cost, due to which the installation of a roof made of soft tiles is very popular.

In addition to aesthetic advantages, a soft roof has technical advantages:

service life - 50 years;
excellent sound absorption;
reliable thermal protection;
tightness;
small weight (average 7 - 8 kg / m2);
non-waste (elements of the ridge and valley can be made of the same material);
comparative ease of installation of shingles.

Soft tiles look good

An important plus is also that the installation of soft tiles is quite easy to perform on the roof of any configuration (with a large number of valleys, attic, chimneys, multi-level, with original asymmetry).

In this review, we will describe how to make a soft tile with your own hands, getting a beautiful durable coating.

So, let's begin.

Getting started, it is desirable to understand what the material with which you have to deal consists of.

The composition of the soft roof

Layered composition of soft tiles

The structure of soft tiles is multi-layered.

The basis is a film (lining), which prevents the sheets from sticking together during storage and transportation.

A self-adhesive composition is applied to the part adjacent to the base.

In the middle - elastic layers of polymer-bitumen mass. The base layer provides tensile strength and is made from polyester, fiberglass, or a similar material.

The outer part of the tile is made of stone chips with expanded clay granules.

This structure allows the production of tiles of various shapes.

It is desirable that the material was from the same batch.
The tiles of different batches must be mixed during installation so that there are no differences in the color scheme.
For large areas of slopes, foil tiles, or shingles with a large pattern, look very nice.

Now, having chosen the appropriate material, we move on.

Tiled roof installation

The main nodes of the roof structure are:

continuous
underlayment for shingles
protective elements of overhangs, ends, valleys, ridges
roof space ventilation
soft tiles.

The structure determines the order of assembly.

Stages of work:

preparation of tools, components, consumables;
device ;
flooring of lining carpets;
fastening of protective eaves and end profiles;
marking the roof area;
device ;
installation of soft tiles (shingles);
closing of skates, valleys.

The roof will turn out to be beautiful and durable if, when installing soft tiles with your own hands, the technological requirements are strictly observed. Therefore, we will describe in detail all the stages.

Required Tools

For work you will need:

construction knife for cutting and trimming shingles;
metal scissors;
tape measure, hammer, level;
hacksaw, circular saw;
mounting gun for sealing joints and seams;
spatula for applying bituminous mastic;
pitched stairs;
pencil or construction crayons for marking.

Accessories, consumables

crate (OSB board or planed edged board);
bituminous mastic (or glue);
lining carpet;
cornice strips (drip);
wind (end) strips;
valley carpet or metal valley (if this element is present in the roof configuration);
junction bar (if necessary);
sealant, mounting gun;
outlet elements of ventilation (aerators, valves, fungi and the like);
roofing nails, self-tapping screws, nails for lathing;
pitched tiles, eaves, ridge elements.

Lathing device

Lathing for soft tiles

Roof lathing made of soft tiles is continuous.

For its device, a moisture-resistant oriented strand board or a dry edged board calibrated in thickness is usually used.

If you use a regular edged board, you will have to perform additional work on grinding and leveling the surface.

When laying OSB boards, the joints are spaced, the gap between the boards is about 2 mm.

The use of dry planed sawn timber has the disadvantage that the wood "breathes" during operation, so the gap between the rows should be 2 - 5 mm.

The thickness of the crate depends on the pitch of the rafters.

For a standard step of 0.6 m, the thickness of the plate should be 9 - 12 mm, a dry edged planed board is used with a thickness of 20 - 22 mm.

If the pitch of the rafters is 0.9 meters - the thickness of the plate should be 18 mm, dry planed edged board - 25 mm.

Underlayment carpet flooring

Carpet backing

A carpet backing is mounted along the plane of the crate, which prevents slipping, deformation of soft tiles during operation, especially when snow melts and melts.

With a small slope (up to 18 degrees) of the roof, it is possible to install a carpet only along the eaves, ends, ridge and valleys.

For a steeper slope, the carpet is laid over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe roof.

The lining carpet is produced in rolls, usually 12, 15 meters long.

The bottom of the valley, if any, is closed first.
Next, lay the substrate parallel to the overhangs.
The carpet is glued to the flooring with special bituminous mastic or glue. The joints are glued especially carefully.

Recently, self-adhesive lining material has been more often used. If you purchase it, there will be no styling problems.

On the overhangs, it is good to release the carpet by 2 cm, tucking it under the eaves bar.

Important: be sure to ensure that when installing the substrate, there are no bubbles or wrinkles on the material.

Fastening of eaves and end profiles

Curtain plank

The cornice strip (dropper) is a corner element with a stiffening rib. She closes the overhangs of the slopes.

The profile is fastened along the carpet along the overhang with an overlap of 50 mm, the edges are cut at an angle. The plank is nailed with a distance of 10 cm. Two nails are additionally nailed at the junction.

The installation procedure for the wind (end) plank is the same - the joints are cut, the nails are nailed along the length with a distance of 10 cm, at the joints - reinforced fasteners.

At this stage, it is possible to perform filing of cornices and roof overhangs (although it can be done after the installation of soft tiles). The filing is made with a planed frontal board, 20-25 mm thick or with plastic spotlights.

When making overhangs with a frontal board, a gap of 2-3 mm is left between the rows.

If spotlights from are used for sheathing, they have the necessary gaps for ventilation.

Roof area layout

Without professional skills, do-it-yourself installation of soft tiles is easier to do if you make markings on the lining carpet with chalk.

After measuring the slope, draw control horizontal lines at a distance of 40 cm, vertical marking is done in meter steps.

Tile marking

Ventilation device

Ridge ventilation device

Any roof must be reliable in the under-roof space to prevent the formation of ice on overhangs, icicles, fungus on wooden structures, and condensate. In general, all the negative phenomena that significantly reduce the life of the roof.

Ridge ventilation is considered the most optimal. For its device in the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge, we will put aerators or ventilation valves, and we will perform the filing of cornices and overhangs with gaps. Providing under-roof ventilation is an important and voluminous topic, so we will not dwell on it in detail in this review.

Well, the preparatory work has been completed, you can start directly installing soft bituminous tiles on the prepared base.

Note: although the solid surface of the battens simplifies the work, the installation requires the use of a pitched ladder. You can buy it or make your own.

roof ladder

It is made from a bar 50 * 50 mm and a board 25 * 100 mm. It is better to use dry material so that it is easy enough to move around the roof.

The finished ladder is, of course, more convenient, as it is made of aluminum tubes and is lightweight. However, the angle of the ridge is not taken into account in the purchased ladder, and with large slopes, the length may not be enough.

Installation of soft tiles

An instruction with a brief description of the sequence of work, developed by the manufacturer, is available in each package with the material.

Important: prior to installation, the packaging should be stored at positive temperatures (preferably from +10).

When soft tiles are laid, the installation technology provides for a temperature regime of +5 degrees. If it is necessary to carry out work at low temperatures, use a building hair dryer.

First of all, the cornice details of the roof are laid out. The lower part is laid along the drip at a distance of 2 centimeters from the roof slope, covering the profile, and carefully glued. The upper side of the cornice elements is nailed with roofing nails with a wide head (10mm) and a sealant.

Nails are not recessed, but are stuffed on the same level with the coating.

If you did not purchase cornice elements separately, you can start laying soft tiles with ordinary shingles, cutting off the petals, with a straight edge to the cornice.

Be sure to remove the protective film from the inside of the sheets.

After making the first row, close the valley (if any).

To finish the valley, a decorative carpet 70 centimeters wide or a metal valley profile is used.

The valley carpet is glued with bituminous mastic or glue and nailed along the perimeter in increments of 20-25 cm. The metal profile is simply nailed.

Important: the nails on the valley carpet go strictly along the perimeter, they should not be in the center along the axis of the valley!

The main shingles can be laid in two ways: vertical and horizontal.

When laying tiles vertically, installation starts from the end of the roof.

The pattern looks most beautiful with horizontal installation, when, after the cornice row, the laying is carried out from the bottom up, starting from the middle to the ends.

At the ends, excessively protruding above the wind bar, the tiles are cut and glued with bituminous mastic to a depth of 10-15 cm.

Valley at soft tiles

In the valley, the shingles are also cut off, leaving an open part (about 10 cm) of a decorative carpet or metal profile. The edges of soft tiles are carefully glued. It is convenient to cut shingles with a knife, placing pieces of OSB or plywood.

When laying, the elements of the soft roof are glued, pulling tightly. The upper part in the place where the drawing ends is pierced with 5-6 nails with a cap.

The next row of tiles covers the nails of the previous row.

Remember to constantly look at the markings, referring to the lines, to be sure that the roof goes smoothly without distortion.

A wide range of materials for roofing makes their choice a rather complicated and responsible matter.

In modern construction, the most popular roofing material is shingle, which in everyday life is called “soft” or “bituminous” tiles. This is due to its high quality, long service life, ease of installation technology, affordable price. In addition to being significantly cheaper than metal roofing, shingles are also silent. It can be easily lifted onto the roof and installed without any problems. There are dozens of soft tile colors on the market.

The construction term “tile” itself does not quite reflect the properties of this material: rather, it conveys ideas about the structure of the roof and about itself. The basis of bituminous tiles is fiberglass, impregnated on both sides with bitumen with the addition of rubber. On the front side, the shingles are sprinkled with stone chips. Fiberglass does not rot and corrode, and rubber bitumen has water-repellent properties. Stone crumb protects the roof from the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation, gives the material mechanical strength, has fireproof properties and retains snow mass.

The basis of the crumb is a strong, durable and hard basalt granulate.

Basic rules for working with soft tiles

There are a number of rules that should be observed while working with shingles.

Before starting work, the material must be stored indoors. Tiles must be packaged, stacked on pallets in rows (no more than 16 rows in height). Rolls with underlayment used for priming should be stored in an upright position.
In order for the roof to turn out to be reliable and serve for a long time, it is necessary to observe the appropriate temperature conditions. This is possible provided that a continuous layer of vapor barrier is installed and there is insulation suitable for a given climatic region, as well as ventilation of the under-roof space.
Bituminous tiles with different color codes and release dates should not be used for the installation of one roof slope. Otherwise, the color will be non-uniform, and the aesthetic impression of the roof will not be at the proper level. Depending on the architectural design, different shades can be combined.
Work is best done at a sufficiently high air temperature (above plus 5 degrees). When mounting at a low temperature (below plus 5), the packages are taken out of the warm warehouse in small batches (no more than 5-6 packs at a time).
To protect the roof from possible damage, the material is cut on a plank placed separately.
Laying soft tiles is carried out on roofs with a slope angle of 15-85 degrees, while the calculated packing surface is given for roofs with a 45-degree slope. With a reduction in the angle, the material consumption is also reduced. The use of hexagon shingles is possible on roofs with a slope of at least 20 degrees.
Soft tiles are not built-up - it is unacceptable to use a burner for its processing. The setting of the adhesive surface should occur under the influence of sunlight. If construction is carried out in regions with strong winds or work is carried out at low temperatures, it is necessary to use a special bituminous adhesive (for example, Plastal or Shingle Stick).
The adhesive layer with a protective film must be protected from premature destruction. Therefore, soft tiles should not be exposed to ultraviolet rays.
The transparent film covering the lower (adhesive) layer of the sheets is removed immediately before laying.
To avoid the appearance of marks and from shoes and stains, in sunny weather, you can not walk on the roof. For movement, “roofing cats” or stairs are used.
Tiling is not carried out directly on the insulation or concrete screed.

Features of mounting the crate

When creating a crate for shingles, it is necessary to take into account some of the nuances.

The crate should not be arranged in a certain step, have steps or irregularities. Fitting joints should be done very carefully.
The ideally flat surface of the lathing ensures a snug fit of the roofing material and prevents possible leaks.
For a quality roofing device, it is necessary to carefully choose both the tile and the material for the crate.
It should be noted that a semi-edged board is not suitable for soft tiles. As already mentioned, flexible tiles are laid on a roof with a slope angle of 12 to 85 degrees. With a sloping roof, it is better to first lay a lining over the entire surface.

With a steep slope, it is necessary to install a lining carpet around the perimeter of the attic windows, around pipes, antennas.

You should prepare a wooden crate in advance. As a rule, it is a flat surface made of edged boards with a very tight mounting step. Fiberboard, OSB, moisture resistant plywood are also suitable as a material. The listed building materials, in addition to performing their main function, retain moisture.

Some of the manufacturers suggest using dry tongue-and-groove boards (their moisture content should be within 20%). However, this material does not justify itself, since the board can be twisted, besides, individual boards may differ in thickness by 2-4 mm, which is unacceptable in the case of flexible tiles, since this roofing material exactly repeats all the base errors.

The fastening of the crate should ensure its absolute immobility. The main requirements for the crate itself are:

smoothness;
strength;
dryness;
the presence of ventilation ducts.

In accordance with the requirements of SNiP, the moisture content of the material should not exceed 20% of the dry weight.

When installing the crate, one should take into account the number of future loads on its surface: it must withstand all possible loads and at the same time not be deformed.

Taking into account the thickness of the snow cover in the Russian middle lane, the optimal thickness of the material for the lathing (plywood or boards) and the step size of the rafter system are calculated based on the step of the rafters.

For example:

The rafter pitch is 500 mm, which means that the thickness of the edged board should be 20 mm, and OSB - 10 mm.

With a rafter pitch of 1200 mm, the thickness of the board used should be 30 mm, and OSB - 20 mm.

Since the basis for flexible tiles are inorganic substances, it is protected from mold and fungus, which cannot be said about wooden structural elements. All wooden parts should be thoroughly impregnated with an antiseptic composition.

If the tile is covered on one side with a self-adhesive layer and a protective film, its laying is much faster and easier, following a certain step. Immediately before laying, the film is removed, and the tile is fixed to the crate with nails. In the process of heating under the sun's rays, the lower part of the tile is attached to the surface of the crate and adjacent tiles, which ensures the reliability and tightness of the mounted roofing.

To obtain a continuous coating, a wood-based crate for bituminous shingles is mounted in two layers, as a result of which an even solid wooden flooring with a completely smooth surface is arranged above the truss structure.

The joints of the base parts are spaced apart, the gap should be 2-4 mm, and the difference in height should be no more than 2 mm. For fixing boards (plywood), they use ruffed galvanized nails or anodized self-tapping screws: they should be 2.5 times more than the thickness of the base in length. It is necessary to avoid distortions and strictly observe the dimensions of the slopes (they must correspond to the project).

Prior to installation, it is necessary to carry out a control measurement of the slopes to establish their perpendicularity and flatness in relation to the cornices and ridges. Measurement data is necessary to ensure the geometric correctness of laying soft tiles.

To prevent friction of the flexible tiles or the appearance of kinks, the crate should be arranged in such a way that there are no sharp corners or kinks on it.

To this end, during the work on the preparation and adjustment of building materials for the construction of the lathing, the soft roof should be as close as possible to rounded shapes in everything: absolutely all frame lines should be without corners, smoothed as much as possible.

A similar design can be obtained using an edged board, the width of which is approximately 140 mm.

It must be properly stored to avoid cracking, troughs and humps (ie grooves and bumps) on the surface.

Ventilation device

The ventilation system is necessary to ensure the free circulation of air necessary to prevent the formation and accumulation of condensate in the lower part of the base. Lack of ventilation can lead to rotting of the truss system and the formation of ice and icicles in the cold season.

The main elements of the roof ventilation system are:

ventilation outlets;
vents (arranged in cornice overhangs);
the air gap between the waterproofing and the base is at least 5mm.

markup

For high-quality laying of soft tiles, the roof should be pre-marked, because due to the small size of the shingle, the rows are often curved.

This disadvantage is especially noticeable on roofs with a large area.

The order of markup is as follows:

On the slopes in the transverse direction (from bottom to top or vice versa), two parallel straight lines are drawn at a distance of 500 mm from each other. These strips will provide a horizontal shift of the soft tiles relative to each other.
Lines can be drawn in any part of the slope - the best place is the edge from where the laying process begins.
Flexible shingles are mounted in rows, so many perpendicular lines should be added to the parallels, relative to which the shingle is laid.

The step between perpendiculars should be 250 mm.

The nuances of installing soft tiles

The installation process starts from the bottom of the roof slope.

The first row is laid upside down. You can also use a special self-adhesive strip. The laying of the first row is carried out with an orientation relative to the roof slope.

When laying the second row, you should already be guided by the markings. Since the undersides of the shingles have a self-adhesive backing, they can simply be pressed onto the base. There is no self-adhesive layer on the top. Its fastening is carried out with the help of special nails with wide caps. They are hammered in the middle and along the edges of each element. Four nails are used for one dead strip of soft tiles.
Laying of each next row is carried out with an offset of 0.5 m (such a shift is required by the material itself and its parameters).
The petals of the mounted row should be located between the petals of the elements of the previous row.

When attaching all elements, regardless of position and row, the same rules should be followed.

The subtleties of laying tiles on the ridge and valleys

Features of the installation of flexible tiles mainly consist in its laying on the ridge, valleys.

A minimum number of them is required on the roof ridge: the design of the ridge can be carried out by a purchased metal element or made on the basis of a shingle. These elements can be cut from soft tiles.

Skate installation- the process is simple: it is necessary to bend a shingle fragment over the ridge and fix it with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

With special care, you should approach the installation of valleys, since it is at these points that leaks most often occur.

The valleys must first be glued with a substrate.

This measure is necessary even in the case of a significant slope of the roof and the absence of a lining carpet. Similarly, the ridge, joints between plywood or OSB boards should be glued.

In valleys, soft tiles must be cut in the direction of this element, and not bent. To increase the strength of the joint, sizing is carried out with an additional layer of shingle.

Fragments are cut out from the strips of soft tiles, which are glued onto adjacent slopes with an overlap over the already mounted layer of bituminous tiles.

FINDINGS:

The soft tile is the most popular roofing material.
Its main advantages are lightness, ease of installation, high quality, durability and availability.
When working with shingles, it is necessary to follow certain rules: store the material indoors, install it at an air temperature above +5 degrees.
The crate must be solid, smooth, completely even.
To prevent the formation of condensate in the under-roof space and the subsequent decay of wooden elements, it is necessary to arrange a ventilation system.
For high-quality installation, preliminary marking of the slopes is required.
Installation of soft tiles starts from the bottom of the slope.
Installation of the ridge is not particularly difficult, and when installing the valleys, special care must be taken to prevent possible leaks.

From the training film you will learn about the features of the installation of shingles SHINGLAS.

Bituminous tiles are a modern roofing material that is widely used in our time for the roofing of residential buildings and other buildings. Many appreciate this material because of its attractive appearance, and this is true, since bituminous tiles have a fairly large variety not only in colors, but also have a relief pattern and a variety of 3D shades. The roofs of houses covered with this material have a special zest, because such a roof gives the whole building an unsurpassed original appearance.

Installation of bituminous tiles is quite simple and does not entail particularly complex work. However, all types of roofs have their own problem areas, the improper overlap of which is dangerous for the whole house. One of these difficult places is the ridge - this is the place where two opposite sides of the roof meet.

Installation of the base under the roof deck

In order to qualitatively and correctly lay soft tiles, you need to make a base that will guarantee the reliability of fastening the tiles to the base of the house, as well as its perfectly even laying. When laying bituminous tiles, the owners of the house will not have to redo the roofing base if other material was previously fixed on it. Installation of tiles can be carried out on a lattice or solid crate. Nowadays, such a crate, and indeed the entire truss system, is usually made of wood. This is one of the most convenient and cheap material for the manufacture of roofing. In the case when a lattice crate is used, it is recommended to use planed coniferous boards with a thickness of 20-25 millimeters.

If the installation of tiles will be carried out on a continuous crate, then the following materials will be the best option for its manufacture:

The fastening of the materials listed above is carried out in a simple and common way for all of us, using self-tapping screws or nails. Thanks to this method of fastening, a lot of money is saved, since self-tapping screws or nails are not expensive materials. However, when working with wood, remember that this material tends to absorb moisture and expand, which is its disadvantage. However, do not worry, because when attaching individual parts, you just need to observe a small distance of a couple of millimeters. Thanks to this, you will contribute to the safety of the foundation of the roof. The gaps between the wood do not need to be observed only if the roof will be regularly subjected to technical drying.

To increase the operational life, the material needs to be treated with a special antiseptic. It is easiest to apply this substance before installation.

Installation of bituminous tiles on the roof ridge

It is worth noting that the bituminous tile ridge is one of the roofing fragments that must be purchased along with other roofing components. As a rule, manufacturers produce such skates in the form of a continuous strip, divided into small rectangles. In order to finish the skate with this device, it is necessary to bend this strip at the perforation line, however, you need to be careful and fold strictly in the center of the strip. Depending on the type of roof, the ridges differ from each other, they can differ in width, length, rigidity, shape (some ridges can be either with an acute angle or rounding), color or texture, and much more. It is for this reason that it is worth making an order in advance so that the skate you have chosen is ideal for the roof of your house.

Advice! The shade of shingles from different boxes may differ from each other. For this reason, we advise you to alternate the material when installing it, choosing tiles from different packages. Thus, the material of a different shade will not be striking, as it will be scattered over the entire area, and the transitions will practically not be noticeable.

Finishing the ridge is one of the last stages of roofing, it is performed after the installation of shingles on the roofing slopes, as well as after finishing all difficult surface areas. When finishing the ridge zone, it is necessary to take into account its inherent features, namely:

Advice! For better fastening of shingles, glue strips may not be enough, because even this special glue may not withstand moisture and not hold the material. Therefore, it is recommended to additionally fasten each of the parts with two nails. However, I would like to note that flexible tiles are a very reliable material, since under the influence of sunlight the roof heats up and melts to some extent, due to which it sticks to each other.

The process of finishing the ridge is the performance of work in several stages, such as:

It is worth remembering that the use of an aerator is important not only for ventilation purposes, but also in order to protect the gaps from various debris such as tree leaves, dirt, insects and rodents, as well as from strong wind blowing and moisture ingress. . For this reason, the use of such a component is mandatory.

Advantages of a soft roof

Nowadays, soft roofing is becoming an increasingly popular way of laying the roof surface. It is used not only for covering residential buildings, but also for private enterprises, as well as some utility blocks located near the house.

There is a fairly large variety of this material, however, they all meet high performance and physical and technological characteristics. Here are some of them:

disadvantages

Like all other roofing materials, bituminous tiles have their drawbacks, one of these drawbacks is the difficult installation. There are a few more points that may be problematic for the owners of the premises in which this work is performed.

As you have noticed, there are much more positive points than negative ones, so after analyzing this information, you can decide whether shingles are suitable for covering your home.

Conclusion

This article gave an answer to the question that interested many owners of private houses, namely how to make a ridge out of shingles. With strict observance of all the rules listed in this article, you can quickly and, most importantly, perform this work with high quality.

Sergey Novozhilov is an expert in roofing materials with 9 years of practical experience in the field of engineering solutions in construction.

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