An important role in the design of any site, whether it be a summer cottage or a large estate, is played by a fence. can be a great alternative to a traditional wooden or stone fence. The green fence will perform not only a protective role, but also an aesthetic and health-improving one. The protective role consists in the standard concealment of the site and the house from prying eyes, the aesthetic one is also understandable - it will please the owners and become part of the landscape design. But with wellness everything is more interesting. Not only will dust not pass through such a barrier, since most of it will remain on the foliage, so much more oxygen will be released than under normal conditions.

In addition to all the other advantages of a hedge in the country, the air with its help will be more saturated with useful essential oils. True, it directly depends on what our fence will consist of. Therefore, let's figure out which plants are better to choose for hedges on the site.

Plants and shrubs for hedges

The ideal option, of course, would be an oleander and similar trees. But, alas, it grows very slowly, just like all conifers. We need a fast growing garden hedge, so let's go through other types of plants for her.

First of all, it is important to know that it is better to make a green hedge two-row. The first row should be given to undersized shrubs. Plants such as wild rose, barberry, honeysuckle, blackcurrant, sea buckthorn and others are suitable for this. It is necessary that the representatives of the outer row tolerate pruning well. The second row will be able to present: lilac, yellow acacia, some conifers (if you manage to buy and plant seedlings at least 1.5 m tall) and other tall shrubs for hedges.

Stages of planting a hedge in the country

At the first stage, it is necessary to stretch and fasten a cord of medium thickness around the entire perimeter of the future green fence. You will need to retreat from this line by about 50 cm.

A little mineral fertilizer should be poured into the dug trench, but peat (humus or manure) - in sufficient quantities. After this, it is necessary to give the earth a drink and leave for a while to absorb moisture.

Now we proceed directly to planting a hedge. It is necessary to plant plants at a short distance, but not close to each other. It is best to make something like a chessboard: the bushes of the inner (second) row are planted at a distance of 30-40 cm, and between them and a little ahead is an undersized shrub of the outer row.

1. The hedge needs to be watered to keep the plants from feeling thirsty. Don't forget to water your hedge, especially during long hot periods.
2. Feed hedge plants periodically (together or before watering). After planting, it is advisable to cut the bushes strongly.
3. Fencing is best done in mid-autumn. Plants will have time to strengthen before frost, and in the spring they will delight you with renewed greenery.
4. You can do a beautiful design of a hedge in the country for the next season: weave branches, give any shape to shrubs.
5. Remember to prune your green hedge at least in the spring before the growing season begins. Since otherwise it will not be a decoration of the garden, but an ugly thicket that suddenly grew around the perimeter of the house.
6. To create a green fence, you can also use climbing plants. It can be all kinds of ivy and grapes, as well as creeping roses, wisteria and even hops.

In general, do not be afraid to fantasize and make a green hedge in the country house alive and beautiful, then rest and even work on the site will bring only pleasure. In addition, in addition to standard hedge shapes, you can create real masterpieces from it by cutting it in a variety of shapes, like green topiary sculptures.

Hedges

Practical advice and examples of hedges. Description of the shrubs and trees used to improve the landscape on your site.

A row of trees or shrubs planted along the border of the site is not just a fence, but also a decorative element.

The fence is designed to mark the boundaries of the property, make it difficult to access it and provide isolation for the inhabitants of the house.

It can be a high wall made of stone, brick or wooden elements, an openwork fence made of metal mesh, twigs or ... a "hedge".

A number of trees or shrubs has a major advantage over other types of fences, since it is also an integral part of the green composition of the garden.

It is also worth being aware that not only those trees and shrubs that need to be shaped by yourself are suitable for a “hedge”.

There are many plants that are enough to plant to provide complete insulation.

Solid merit.

"Hedge" performs all the functions of a good fence, in addition, there are other advantages.

Trees and shrubs, even with fallen leaves, trap dirt and dust.

A dense "hedge" is a barrier to gusts of wind. In summer, it also limits the influx of hot air generated from the carriageway heated by the sun.

The green screen reduces the noise level by scattering and absorbing the acoustic wave.

"Hedgerow" is a garden decoration, and the sight of greenery has a calming effect on a person's nervous system.

A dense wall of thorny plants is often a more serious barrier to an intruder than a fence made of metal, brick or planks.

Unfortunately, you will have to wait until the planted trees and shrubs grow and become a fence. In order to shorten the waiting time, it is possible to plant a "living fence" on an earthen rampart along the boundaries of the site.
The plants that make up such a hedge require systematic care: watering, fertilizing and cutting (this is especially true for front gardens that are shaped).

Types of "living fences".

Trees and shrubs suitable for creating a front garden must have the appropriate qualities: dense and abundant growth, numerous branches, as well as the ability to quickly form new shoots (mandatory for hedges that are regularly cut).

natural or shaped.

Many types of trees and shrubs do not need to be cut to get a pretty hedge that effectively encloses the area. It will be enough to plant the plants more densely and to select such species, the natural height of which will correspond to the expected level of the “living” fence. For a low hedge (up to 1 m), which does not need to be cut, meadowsweet (Spiraea x bumalda Burv.), barberry (Berberis thunbergii) are suitable; for a fence of medium height (1-2m) - eternal mock orange (Philadelphus coronarius L.), rough deutzia (Deutzia scabra Thunb.), viburnum vesicle (Physocarpus opulifolius "Diabolo"); for high (above 2m) - blue spruce (Picea pungens Engelm), Canadian spruce, or white, or gray (Picea glauca Moench), common oak, or pedunculate (Quercus robur Fastigiata).

It should be noted that plant growth is greatly influenced by the quality of soil and water. In order to obtain the expected height of the hedge, both natural and formed, the plants should be given the best conditions.

It is also important to select plants that are suitable for each other, that is, it is impossible, for example, to specially cut trees low, because you can form a hedge of the desired height from shrubs.

To create a low hedge that can be shaped, boxwood evergreen (Buxus sempervirens) is very suitable; for a fence of medium height - hawthorn, cotoneaster, privet (Ligustrum) and barberry; for high - hornbeam, plum, thuja.
Evergreen or with falling leaves.

The advantage of evergreen trees is that the hedge of them will be a decoration of the site and good insulation all year round. However, the choice of tree species for this is not so great. Of the evergreen deciduous trees, only boxwood and purple pyrocanthus are mainly used, because the rest of the species from this group freeze in our climatic conditions. At the same time, coniferous trees tolerate winter well: juniper, thuja, yew, Canadian or common spruce. Just remember that evergreens and conifers are less resistant to air pollution than those that shed their leaves for the winter. If you still want to plant them on your site, then choose the most hardy one - thuja, black pine or European larch (an original and unusual tree that sheds its needles for the winter).

Trees and shrubs that drop their leaves in autumn grow faster than evergreens, and it is from them that a “hedge” will turn out faster. In addition, their appearance changes during the year, which should also be attributed to their merits. First of all, due to the large selection, it is easy to find a breed that will meet all expectations, as well as local climatic conditions.

Blooming or prickly.

"Hedgerow" should not be a green monolith. It can be made from spectacularly flowering and fruiting plants, such as jasmine, forsythia, tavula, quince, snowberry (Symphoricarpos Duhamel), cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa) or pyrocanthus purpurea. Such front gardens look very impressive if you plant next to plants that bloom in turn, or those whose leaves change color in autumn, as well as with species decorated with fruits.

For those who want to create a barrier from a green hedge for intruders, strange dogs or wild animals to enter the site, deciduous trees and shrubs with thorns or thorns should be planted (for example, sea buckthorn, wild rose, hawthorn, barberry, blackthorn, purple pyrocanthus, honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos)). Such plantations should be provided with plenty of space, because frequent cutting of these plants will deprive them of the thorns and thorns for which they were planted.

Planting a hedge.

Distance. The number of plants in the hedge depends mainly on the selected species, as well as on the method of planting (in one or two rows). Most often, plants are planted in one row, but sometimes, to obtain a dense thicket (mainly when creating thorny hedges), planting is done in two rows. A common mistake is to plant plants too densely. In this case, plants develop incorrectly, “fight” among themselves for water, mineral salts and light.

In fences that do not need to be formed, as well as in high sheared plantings, plants are usually located at a distance of 0.5 to 1 meter, with a fence height of up to 1 m - 20-50 cm, and with low plantings - every 10 cm.

Landing. On the strip of land allotted for planting, you should first carefully weed and remove the weeds, and then dig a hole a little deeper than the root system of the plant requires. It will be good if you put some compost or black earth on the bottom. Place the roots of the plant in the recess, sprinkle them with earth and lightly tamp down. The land around the plantations should be covered with a 5-cm layer of humus to reduce the evaporation of water from the soil and limit the number of weeds.

Care.

Fertilizer. This is a very important point, as the plants in the hedge are often planted and the soil quickly becomes "empty". Mineral fertilizers should not be used immediately after planting, but only after making sure that the culture has taken root (that is, when new shoots appear). Only half the recommended amount of fertilizer should be used, and only from next spring can a whole serving be given (it is best to use manure consisting of many components). Fertilize 2-3 times a year, from May to July, or use long-acting manure supplied only once (in spring).

Watering. It should always be done, after top dressing, in between rains. You need to water directly the soil around the plant. It is better to do this less often, but more abundantly, than more often, but little by little.

A haircut. Green hedges, which do not require shearing, also sometimes need such procedures. However, this is not to rid the plants of their natural form, but to thin out (make as thick as you need), as well as to remove green shoots that have appeared in large numbers, dried out or tangled. . Shearing should be no more than once a year.

Plantings that need to be shaped on their own should be trimmed regularly so that they become thick and take the shape you need. The first haircut of trees and shrubs planted in spring or autumn, shedding foliage for the winter, should be done after the end of frost, but before the growing season (end of February, the latest is the end of March). In subsequent years, the main period for shaping the hedges will be the end of June - the beginning of July. It was during that period that it would be necessary to remove at least half of the shoots that appeared this year. And only after the plants have reached the desired height, should they be cut regularly two, or even three, times a year, each time leaving a few centimeters of the past growth. Shaping, at the end of the growing season, should be done with particular care so that in a leafless state, the shoots do not spoil the overall appearance of the plantations.

Hedges made of coniferous trees do not need to be cut for the first few years (the only exception is European larch, which should be cut low already in the first year). Then, when the plants approach the height you need, they should be cut once or, in extreme cases, twice a year. For the first time, such trees and shrubs should be shaped in the spring, before the first shoots appear, and the second time in the summer, but no later than mid-August.

Hedges- one of the best solutions to the problem of fencing a land plot and dividing it into functional zones. Trees, shrubs, and sometimes herbaceous perennials are used as planting material.

But a hedge is needed not only to protect against the intrusion of outsiders, it is also an element of the decoration of the site.

With the help of hedges, you can drape an unsightly fence, hide outbuildings from the eyes of guests, revive the right corners of paths, separate a recreation area from a sports field or a play area from a vegetable garden.

A hedge can be given a geometrically finished look if it is made up of plants that tolerate shearing well. You can land it in a single-row, double-row or multi-row landing (usually no more than five rows), depending on the required degree of protection of the site.

tall hedges

For bordering relatively large areas, usually use high hedges(3-4 m). The following plants are suitable for high hedges:

small-leaved elm,

Berlin poplar,

Maple Tatar,

Siberian hawthorn,

honeysuckle golden,

Small-leaved bush linden,

Thuja western.

If you do not want to engage in the formation of crowns of shrubs and trees, then you need to opt for planting an unformed hedge. Planting density in the rows of such a hedge is 0.5-1 m; between rows - 0.5-0.7 m. Tall unshaped fence can be created from plants such as:

Common lilac,

lilac hungarian,

Siberian apple tree,

honeysuckle golden,

Honeysuckle Tatar,

Irga spike-flowered,

Irga canadian,

Viburnum ordinary,

Chubushnik ordinary.

It will give special splendor and solemnity to the site high hedge of coniferous plants. A coniferous hedge is well set off by solitary and group plantings of shrubs, trees of exquisite shape or flower beds and flower beds on an emerald lawn field. The following conifers are suitable:

Thuja western,

Yew berry,

juniper columnar,

juniper medium,

Chinese juniper,

Lawson's cypress,

Cypress pea,

Canadian spruce,

Spruce prickly,

Spruce ordinary.

medium height hedges

To drape outbuildings or protect fruit trees from cold winds, they plant middle hedge(up to 2 m high).

If you want to further shape the hedge, then you need to choose plants that are easy to cut and remain attractive for a long time, these are:

Hawthorn,

barberry common,

purple barberry,

Any fence is a kind of curtain that allows a person to retire himself and fence off the space that belongs to him from the external environment. But man is part of nature. If his gaze constantly stumbles upon a monotonous wall (any - brick, stone, metal), he will feel psychological discomfort. The closed "shoebox" of such fences isolates a person from the outside world. It is impossible to take and simply separate from nature without disturbing the balance with it.

A plant hedge is an ideal solution when choosing a fence, because it is both a wall and a piece of nature at the same time. In addition, a garden with a live frame always wins in ecological and decorative terms. So what is the best way to make a hedge?

Planting a hedge with your own hands is within the power of many gardeners and will bring double pleasure: because this is your own creative work and because no one else will have the same one.

How to make a climbing hedge

A hedge can be made from climbing plants, you just need to decide on the specific task that the fence on the site must cope with. Inside the homestead territory, not dense monolithic barriers are more appropriate, but openwork light partitions. There is an alternative to hedges of trees and shrubs - climbing herbaceous plants on the frame. More precisely, they are a private version of the hedge.

Trellis with clematis as a hedge.

Tapes, lattices are decorative garden elements with history. In Europe, they are in great demand, but in domestic horticulture, until recently, they were slightly forgotten. Meanwhile, such live screens are both decorative and functional. Trellis, trellises, trellis panels with climbing plants can enclose individual sections of the garden to create secluded corners, visually structure the space.

A hedge can be made from such decorative lattices.

These peculiar screens give the desired shade, cover from drafts, mask places that are not desirable for viewing. Such "flat" flower beds delight the eye, decorate the garden with greenery and bright colors, without taking up much space. So, a dashed line of lattice "blooming" panels can be an accent in the garden, hiding from the eyes an unattractive territory or outbuildings. At the same time, it is easy to pass through such a fence to the opposite side of the garden.

The purpose of the trellis can be twofold: a beautiful wooden or wrought iron trellis can be the foreground, the “proscenium” of the composition, and a light “green” garland on it can be an emphasizing and shading addition.

Tapestry in the garden.

In another version, the support can play the role of an inconspicuous frame for vines and lashes.

Attention! Living walls from herbaceous plants can be "built" much faster than growing them from shrubs - and in this they are just a godsend for those gardeners who do not want or cannot wait for a long time.

The bonus is that the support structure can be installed, in addition to the vertical position, in inclined and even horizontal planes.

Plants for different options are selected appropriate. So, girlish grapes will quickly cover the entire surface provided to it from top to bottom with a dense carpet. And honeysuckle honeysuckle or clematis will spread only on the upper part of the support, without covering the bottom.

Not all climbing plants are able to climb to the top of the trellis and twist their entire frame. Therefore, to create high green walls, we can recommend vigorous vines:

• grapes - girlish five-leafed, girlish three-pointed, fragrant, Amur;
• aristolochia large-leaved,
• ivy.

When making low fences, undersized vines are used:

• honeysuckle - honeysuckle, evergreen, Telman;
• clematis - all types and varieties,
• chinese lemongrass,
• actinidia.

The perennial vines listed above can be combined with annual ones - decorative beans, sweet peas, Japanese hops.

Wooden climbing support is easy to make but will require cosmetic repairs and maintenance antiseptic treatment before installation and every two to three years thereafter. This is especially true for places of contact with the ground.

A budget option is commercially available plastic nets with different cell sizes. At first they do not require maintenance, but then quickly become unusable. In addition, they are monotonous and do not always fit into the style of the garden.

Professionals do not recommend erecting perforated support walls for vines made of brick or stone of special masonry on their own, since the safety of such a design requires sufficient skill.


To achieve the greatest effect when decorating climbing plants, a number of requirements should be followed:

• one species should be assigned a solo role, the rest - "submit" and complement it;
• the plants participating in the composition must be somewhat similar in appearance, in harmony with each other (for example, in the texture of the leaves, in the shape of a flower or its color, etc.);
• do not overdo it with the number of species in the composition. Two or three types of plants is already quite enough. The following pairs are examples of successful air-to-ground partnerships:

- common ivy and purple foxglove,

- Clematis Jacqueman Purple rain and royal yellow lily,

- grapes girlish trizaostrenny and hydrangea paniculata.

In addition, an interesting idea is the now emerging possibility of creating a portable “screen” from separate fragments anywhere in the garden.

They are modules consisting of wooden or plastic boxes with a nutrient substrate and a lattice panel installed in the middle, twined with one- or perennial vines.

Such portable modules are great for making hedges.

• Echinocystis (a spectacular weed, which is often called mad cucumber in the people),
• nasturtium (a lesser known name is capuchin),
• chinu (the so-called sweet peas).

At the foot of such a “drape” petunias and surfinias (a group of ampelous, i.e. hanging, petunias) will look good, which must not be forgotten to be coordinated in color with the “top”.

Selection of planting material for hedges

The rich selection of plant species and their varieties for hedges, presented on today's "green" market, is able to satisfy any most demanding taste. Planting material for hedges needs to be homogeneous and in large quantities, so it is better to purchase it at a local nursery. There, seedlings are grown from varieties adapted to the specific climate of the region. "Foreigners" from Poland, Holland, who filled our garden centers, are more expensive, but most importantly, they are grown in conditions that differ sharply in soil, climatic and environmental factors.

The final price of a hedge will be determined by its length, the number of tiers and the cost of the green "filling". The same plant for sale can be seen in different formats, which are reflected in its price. The following parameters may differ:

• planting age,
• the size,
• state of the root system – open system or closed system.

For group plantings (including hedges), some nurseries sell two- and three-year-old plants with open roots, without an earthen clod, several seedlings in a bunch. Landing for successful survival must be completed in the first half of May.

Trees and shrubs grown in pot or container culture can be purchased and planted throughout the season.

Plants from which a live fence has been planted must be cut from the first year of planting.

Attention! You should not buy large specimens for molded hedges, which are more suitable for planting "solo" or for free compositions.

This is especially true for deciduous trees. In the nursery, most often their crown is formed for free-standing trees, clearing the stem from side branches. A fence of such seedlings oriented to a different task will additionally require a special stimulating pruning so that the “legs” of the fence do not turn out to be bare.

Today there is a new trend - the sale of ready-made hedges. They look like blocks in the form of a parallelepiped of plants tightly planted in a container, from 60 cm to 2 m high. The width of an individual block is up to 100 cm, the depth is from 30 to 60 cm. "much easier and faster, on the other hand, the final astronomical price of such a fence reduces the number of people who want to buy it.


What plants are best for making hedges

In the middle lane and in the north-west of Russia, the best relatively inexpensive material for self-cultivation of hedges are coniferous tree species that lend themselves well to shearing:

• thuja western and eastern,
• spruce (ordinary, prickly, Ayan),
• juniper virginsky, ordinary, Cossack;

- deciduous:

• small-leaved linden,
• rough elm,
• field maple.

Borders used to frame paths, areas and isolate individual areas of the garden are best obtained from ornamental shrubs that are quite affordable:

• brilliant cotoneaster,
• vesiculus viburnum,
• white snowberry,
• shrub caragana,
• cinquefoil ("Kuril tea"),
• barberry,
• privet.

You can make a living fence yourself.

Making a hedge from scratch

In the Moscow region, the minimum cost of a 0.5 m high hardwood seedling with a packed root is 200 rubles, conifers - 300. Considering that the planting density is on average 2-5 plants per linear meter, it becomes clear how much the desired hedge. There is a way out - if you wish, you can make a hedge yourself.

The seed method of reproduction is long and does not always lead to the transmission of the desired properties of the "source" by inheritance. The most common method of propagating trees and shrubs in ornamental gardening is propagation by cuttings: green and lignified.

Breeding with green cuttings

Hydrangea, cinquefoil, juniper, clematis, honeysuckle, etc. are easily propagated by cuttings. Generally speaking, this is a rather tedious way of breeding perennials. The special microclimate regime necessary for the successful rooting of green cuttings can only be created in protected ground conditions - in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Reproduction by green cuttings requires maintaining certain conditions in such a “kindergarten”:

• high air humidity - 80-90%,
• constant ambient temperature - 25-30 degrees,
• light and moisture-absorbing substrate,
• shading the greenhouse from overheating by direct sunlight.

But if there is a desire to have a friendly “squad” of specimens of the plant you like, then difficulties will not stop the purposeful summer resident.

The harvesting of green cuttings itself is simple, but the rules for cuttings should be observed:

1. The mother bush or tree must be mature, but not old.
2. Cuttings are harvested in the second half of June, when the period of intensive growth of shoots is on the decline. Such shoots are very flexible, do not break, their stem is slightly lignified.
3. Cuttings 6-10 cm long, with several buds, are cut from the middle part of strong shoots, after removing their upper unripened grassy part.
4. The lower leaves from the handle are cut off, the upper ones are shortened by half.
5. The lower sections of the cuttings are treated with a growth stimulator (for example, heteroauxin), keeping in its solution for 15-18 hours.

As a substrate for rooting cuttings, a mixture of peat and sand in proportions of 1: 1 or 2: 1 is suitable. Planting pattern - 5 cm in a row x 10 cm between rows.

Seedling care includes:

• watering,
• micronutrient supplementation,
• spraying with water
• systematic ventilation of the greenhouse,
• timely removal of rotten seedlings.

After 3-4 weeks of careful care, the pets begin to grow, fresh leaves appear on them - this indicates success and the beginning of rooting of the cuttings.

From this moment, the seedlings begin to harden and accustom to natural conditions. To do this, the shelter is periodically removed. A month before the end of the growing season, the greenhouse is completely removed, having mulched the plantings from freezing. In the spring, a hedge is planted from overwintered seedlings.

Propagation by woody cuttings

Some types of tree crops reproduce better with lignified ("woody") cuttings. This applies, for example, to barberry, currant (common and ornamental), willow.

Such cuttings are harvested in December-January, in extreme cases, in late autumn before the onset of frost. From the middle parts of mature branches, the diameter of which is not more than 1 cm, cut with secateurs into segments 15-20 cm long. They are tied into bundles, packed from drying into a "breathing" film and stored in a cellar or refrigerator at an air temperature of 1-3 degrees Celsius. When the spring heat comes, they are also treated with a growth stimulator and planted obliquely in a "school" under a transparent shelter. The depth of embedding into the soil should be such that only one or two buds remain above the surface. Shoots will then appear from them, and from those hidden in the ground - roots. From the seedlings that have formed by autumn, you can “build” a hedge.

A few tips from the pros:

• shoots for cuttings are chosen healthy, with vigorous growth, not blooming this year,
• the upper end of the cutting should end with a cut at an angle of 45 degrees ("angle of life") in a centimeter above the extreme kidney, the lower end - with an oblique cut under the lower kidney,
• cuttings are harvested and planted with a good quantitative margin, taking into account the inevitable culling at different stages of growing seedlings.

Features of creating hedges from conifers

Conifers have a similar story: the propagation of conifers from seeds guarantees the preservation of maternal properties only in a wild culture. The forms obtained as a result of selection most often do not reproduce the characteristics of this variety during seed propagation. But during vegetative propagation, including cuttings, the characteristic features of the mother plant are transmitted to “children”. In addition, the process of growing seedlings (for example, arborvitae) from seeds stretches up to 5-6 years, while cuttings can produce a new plant in 2-3 years.

Breeding conifers has its own specifics, the success of rooting largely depends on the correct choice of cuttings:

• cuttings taken from young varietal specimens take root more easily. Cuttings cut from a plant in a "wild" culture have a low percentage of root formation;
• thin and lateral shoots give roots faster than strong and vertically directed;
• coniferous cuttings are not cut, but carefully separated from the main branch with a “heel” - a small piece of bark and mature wood;
• when planting, the back side of the branch should remain “looking” down.

Attention! Representatives of the Pine family with cuttings take root very poorly.

The best time for harvesting cuttings is spring, at the beginning of budding, and the first half of summer, after the growth of young shoots has faded and they have hardened.

Coniferous seedlings are more capricious in care, do not like changes in temperature and humidity:

• the temperature in the greenhouse and greenhouse should be lower than for deciduous - only 20-23 degrees, not higher than 25. It will be necessary to create diffused lighting and constant shading from the direct sun with lutrasil or paper;
• humidity - up to 100%, and the presence of water "dust" in the air, which can only be created by a fogging installation, is desirable;
• there must be drainage under the substrate layer, since waterlogging of the soil threatens with a lack of oxygen for the roots and, as a result, the death of seedlings.

Rooted seedlings of frost-resistant conifers can winter without shelter. But it is best to install “houses” above them from boxes with a spruce roof. If the cuttings were planted in the greenhouse not in the ground, but in boxes, then in the fall the cuttings are taken out of the greenhouse, dug into the ground until spring and covered in the same way.

hedge planting time

The end of April - the first half of May is the best time for planting all kinds of plants. During this period, they take root best and restore the root system, which is inevitably damaged during digging. During the mass leaf fall (September - early October), the autumn planting dates come.

Attention! Later dates for planting coniferous crops often lead to their death. The plant continues to evaporate moisture through the needles, and the process of active formation of new roots is skipped. The seedling has nothing to get the required amount of water from the soil, and it dries up.

Plants with a closed root system grown in container culture can be planted throughout the growing season. You need to be prepared for the fact that such planting material is much more expensive. A hedge consisting of such elements will look more representative than from ordinary-looking seedlings with a bare root. But in two years they will even out in terms of presentability.

hedge planting technique

If you decide to make a hedge yourself, then you need to familiarize yourself with the technology of planting such a "live" fence.

The hedge is a line of impenetrable plantings, a single whole. Therefore, a single landing site is being prepared. The area must be dug up in advance, freed from construction debris and weed roots.

From the edge of the garden path to the trunk of a tree, which is an element of the fence, there should be at least 70 cm, and to the central zone of a medium-sized shrub - 50 cm. .

They dig a trench 50-60 cm deep, 40-50 cm wide. If the plants are planted in two rows, the width of the two-line fence should be 70-90 cm. If a three-tiered wall is planned, then another 30-40 cm width is added to the third row.

Attention! When planting a multi-row hedge, the plants of each next row are planted in a checkerboard pattern relative to the previous one.

When digging a trench, the upper, more fertile layer is discarded in one direction, the lower one in the other, and used to level the row spacing.

Planting seedlings goes according to the following "scenario":

1. Peat, compost or humus is added to the top layer of the removed soil, mixed with superphosphate for active root growth after planting, and the moat is filled with this substrate. If the soil at the landing site is heavy, clayey, it is recommended to first pour sand, gravel or expanded clay on the bottom of the trench with a layer of up to 10 cm.
2. Then, pegs are installed in the center of the trench and a cord is pulled with a single-row landing and two with a double-row one. In the latter case, the stakes of another row are set from each other at a distance equal to the row spacing.
3. In the trench along these landmarks, planting holes are dug with a diameter greater than the diameter of the root system of the seedling. The distance between them depends on the type of plant - from 2 to 5 copies per linear meter. When planting a dense fence of trees in one row, the distance between them is made no more than 1 m, otherwise the fence will look like an alley.
4. They put the seedling in the center of the hole, evenly distribute the roots and fall asleep with the prepared substrate. At the same time, its root collar should be slightly above the level of the soil, since the earth will then settle. The earth around is carefully tamped.
5. A roller is made along the edges of the trench so that when watering such a furrow, water does not spread over the surface of the soil. Water abundantly even in rainy weather, preferably with a solution of root stimulants.
6. The resulting ravines and voids are covered with the remaining soil, the bent seedlings are leveled.
7. The near-trunk strip is mulched with peat to maintain an optimal water-temperature regime in the root zone. An effective solution would be to use wood chips, pine bark, buckwheat husks as mulch.

hedge care

Hedge care has specific features based on the special conditions for the existence of flora representatives in it. Plants here feel in much more cramped conditions, where their brothers and sisters are "in the wild". This is facilitated by:

• the inevitable struggle of closely spaced competitors for nutrients and moisture in the soil;
• the situation is aggravated if the line is planted along a fence with its foundation or a path with a thick pillow. The trench eventually overflows with roots, their death begins, which is quickly displayed on the exterior of the hedge.

Therefore, from the second year of planting, it is necessary to strictly observe the schedule of regular fertilizing with organic and mineral substances:

• in spring, at the beginning of bud break (along the "green contour") - nitrogen,
• in July-August, during intensive root formation - phosphorus and potassium,
• do not forget about the introduction of humus, compost into the soil.

Feed the plants and after each haircut.

In addition to traditional methods, foliar feeding and assistance to young plantings in the form of growth stimulants (for example, heteroauxin) are shown.

When watering, it is important to soak the root layer well with water. If there is no mulch, loosen the soil under the hedge no deeper than 5 cm.

The hedge responds well to sprinkling - watering with a pressure jet from a hose. Coniferous plants especially “love” this procedure, since the accumulated dust is washed off from the needles living from 3 to 5 years.

Sanitary pruning is carried out every year, removing weak and diseased shoots. A haircut that forms the contours of the hedge is done 2-4 times during the growing season, depending on the growth rate of the shoots.

If the difficulties of creating "from scratch" do not frighten an enthusiastic gardener, then a do-it-yourself hedge will rightfully serve as a source of his pride for many years.

A summer cottage is a place that every owner of a country house can decorate and equip as he wants. If you connect your imagination and spend a little time and effort, you can make a suburban area beautiful and cozy.



For example, instead of the ordinary and boring, you can build a hedge, which will become a real decoration of the territory. It is also worth noting that the fence of green plants will protect the site from prying eyes and noise, reduce the penetration of exhaust gases and dust from the street.



By size, plant hedges are divided into three types.

type of hedge	Description
borders	They differ in small height (up to 1 meter), lush bushes are most often used for this type of fence. They are mainly used for decorative purposes to highlight areas of the yard space.
Hedges	To create this type of fence, tall plants (from 1 to 3 meters) are used, characterized by slow growth and good branching.
living walls	Plants that are planted to create walls at the boundaries of the site should be distinguished by a deep root system, good branching, and shade tolerance. Height - from 3 to 5 meters. These living fences perfectly protect the site from noise and dust, prevent the penetration of strangers from the street.

Also, plants are perfectly combined with fences made of various materials: wood, metal, natural stone, plastic.



The fence in the summer cottage does not have to be made high and monumental, you can create an unusual and festive fence of flowers. Openwork will serve as a frame for the structure, and climbing flowering plants will serve as decoration.

Materials and tools for the construction of a lattice wooden fence structure



1. Posts to support sections (40 by 40 mm). You can use a rounded or square bar. Height - 1.5 meters. A third of the timber should be dug into the ground, which will ensure the stability of the structure.
2. Planks for mounting the crate.
3. Cross bars.
4. Wood preservative.
5. Rope and stakes to ensure correct marking.
6. Screwdriver and wood screws.
7. Cement mortar and crushed stone for fixing the pillars.

Step 1. Marking the location of the fence

For these purposes, stakes and ropes are used. It is advisable to correctly mark the length of the fencing structure in advance in order to accurately calculate the amount of wood and poles for the fence sections.

Step 2 Installing the Poles



At an equal distance from each other, holes are dug more than half a meter deep. It is desirable that the supports are located at a distance of 1200 -1500 mm from each other. Since the height of the fence is 2 meters, you need to dig the pillars into the ground by 70-80 cm. Do not make the pits too wide, as you will need a lot of rubble and cement to fix the pillars.

Before immersing the pillars in the ground, the wood must be thoroughly impregnated. The pillars are installed in a horizontal position, the pits are covered with rubble and filled with cement mortar. This will ensure high-quality fixation of the supports. So that in the process of drying the solution the pillars do not mow, you can strengthen them with wooden spacers.



Step 3. Installation of fence sheets

This stage is performed after the concrete has hardened. First, with the help of self-tapping screws, the upper and lower transverse strips are screwed to the posts. Together with the supports, they form the power frame of the fence. The upper planks are fastened below the tops of the pillars by 15-20 cm. The lower ones are at a distance of 20-30 cm from the ground.

Step 4. Mounting the crate of wooden planks









Since the fence is made specifically to support climbing plants, the crate should be with large cells. Plant shoots should easily penetrate the holes in order to completely hide the wooden structure. Wooden planks laid crosswise are best fastened together with small self-tapping screws. This will give the whole structure stability and strength.

Prices for different types of building boards

Building boards

Step 5. Wood processing

After the fence is ready, it is imperative to treat the tree with a deep impregnation antiseptic. This is necessary to protect the wood from moisture and pests, especially if the planks are densely covered with plants.

Step 6. Landscaping





After installing the fence, you can start landscaping and designing the structure. If the owner of the cottage loves bright and densely flowering plants, then you can decorate the hedge with the help of climbing roses, barberries, hydrangeas, spireas.





Video - 8 ways to decorate a chain-link fence

Plastic mesh for creating a hedge



Plastic is a fairly strong material that can easily withstand changes in weather conditions, high humidity. If you want to protect your summer cottage in an original and affordable way, then you can use a special plastic mesh for climbing plants for this purpose. The advantages of such a fence are obvious.

1. Light weight.
2. Corrosion resistance.
3. Ease of installation and installation.
4. Affordable price.
5. Variety of sizes and colors of the plastic sheet.
6. Good light and water permeability.
7. Thermal resistance.
8. Strength and durability.

Installation of plastic mesh to support hedges



Tools and materials




Step 1 Since the fabric of the plastic fence itself is light in weight, it is not necessary to deepen the posts much. It is desirable to have supports at a distance of 1.5-2 meters from each other. To install the pillars, you need to dig holes with a depth of 40-50 cm. After installing the pillars, crushed stone must be poured into the recesses and cement mortar should be poured. Such structures dry for 2-3 days.



Step 2 After the pillars are firmly fixed in the ground, you can proceed with the installation of the plastic sheet. The canvas does not need to be cut into pieces. If metal pipes were used for the supports, then special hooks can be welded on them, for which the mesh will be attached. If welding is not possible, then ordinary plastic clamps can be used.



Step 3 When installing the mesh, it is important to observe a uniform tension of the material. The canvas must not sag. If the distance between the supports is more than 1.5 meters, then it is advisable to use a wire that will serve as the upper and lower stiffeners. The wire is stretched along the upper and lower edges of the grid, attached to the posts.

Step 4. The connection of the mesh sheets must pass along the supports. You can not build up the canvas between the pillars.

Step 5. After the mesh fence is installed, you can start planting the structure. Plastic is a durable material, it can easily withstand the weight of grapes, ivy, honeysuckle, campsis. These perennial plants will become a real decoration of the backyard and will reliably cover the territory from prying eyes.







A living arch would be appropriate next to the hedge

Video - Installation of a plastic mesh

Prices for various types of plastic mesh for the fence

plastic mesh



If for some reason the site owner does not want to install a standard wooden fence or, but dreams of a reliable and high fence, you can pay attention to a hedge on an earthen rampart. Plants, coniferous or deciduous, are densely planted on a cushion of earth.

This method of creating a hedge has many advantages: the territory of the site is reliably isolated by an earth embankment. The shaft allows trees to be planted at higher elevations, which shortens the time it takes for plants to reach a certain height. But there are also disadvantages in this method of fencing the territory: a shaft of earth can take up quite a lot of space.



Creation of an earthen rampart

Step 1. A site is selected on which a hedge will be installed on a hill. The width of the shaft can vary from 50 cm to 1 meter.

Step 2. A frame for an earthen rampart is created. To prevent the earth from crumbling, it is required to create a double-sided frame made of bricks or natural stone. Earth will be poured between bricks or masonry. The side of the masonry, which is located closer to the site, should be half as high as the second side of the masonry. For example, the height of the inner masonry is 1 meter, the outer one is 50 cm.

Step 3 Between the masonry, the earth is filled up, into which coniferous or deciduous trees are later planted.

The resulting slope of the shaft provides a runoff of excess moisture, and the side walls prevent subsidence of the soil.



It is worth knowing that the construction of such a fence is a rather laborious process and requires a lot of time and effort, especially if you need to fence a large area. But, a hedge, which acts as an impregnable bastion, will eventually protect the summer cottage from outside visits and views no worse than a metal or wooden fence.





04.10.2017 3 559

Hedge - what is the best way to make an original green fence?



Now many homeowners and summer residents have a beautiful hedge growing on the site, what to make it from, many novice gardeners and just good citizens do not know, and in order not to make a mistake with the choice, you should pay attention to trees and shrubs, undersized and evergreen, tall, prickly, fruit, flowering, for example, from arborvitae, hawthorn, spruce, Scotch pine, cypress, yew, barberry, spirea, fir, dogwood, juniper and other coniferous and deciduous crops ...

Living Fence - Categories of Living Fence

There is a lot of information about the different types of fences for the site - wooden, metal, stone or mesh. But special attention deserve hedges, which do an excellent job with the functions assigned to them. Detailed instructions on what is best to make a hedge will help you decide on the type of fencing and truly transform the look of the site.



To begin with, you should familiarize yourself with the rich variety of living fences, in order to then decide on the most suitable trees or shrubs for your site. Firstly, they are usually divided into 2 large categories - freely growing and formed, and in most household plots and dachas, the latter category is most often used.

Subdivide green fences and height:
• more than 2 m - tall
• 0.5 - 2 m - medium height
• no more than 0.5 m - low

Depending on the biological characteristics of various plant species and varieties, hedges are distinguished:




Below we will consider plants for hedges that will fit harmoniously into the overall landscape design and allow you to give any site a unique look.

Evergreens for hedges

The use of evergreens for borders and fences is very popular. And this is nothing special, since they are distinguished by the following list of useful characteristics:

• allow the formation of high-density fences
• easily tolerate a haircut carried out to give a certain shape
• are distinguished by excellent decorative effect, which persists throughout the year
• have shoots with slow growth rates, which helps to maintain a neat shape and appearance for a long time

In addition to all of the above, and evergreen, it will not be difficult to care for.

Considering the peculiarities of the Russian climate, the following plants will serve as the best choice for fencing - spruce trees of different varieties, ordinary and pines (mountain dwarf). One of the weak features of conifers in the form of monotony can be corrected by unique varieties that have needles with a golden hue and silver. An excellent option would be to combine coniferous plants with deciduous ones, which will give the hedge variability and color, and diversify landscape design.

Deciduous crops for live fence

Coniferous plants for a live fence are a real classic, but if you want to give originality to your backyard, you should give preference to deciduous crops, which are distinguished by the following characteristics:

• good adaptability to central Russia with its climate
• no requirements for special conditions
• good cutting tolerance
• allow you to change the appearance of the site depending on the season
• the formation of a fairly dense crown

When choosing plants from this category, it is worth giving preference to winter-hardy and unpretentious varieties that have small leaves with strongly branching shoots, these include the following ornamental shrubs for hedges - blackthorn with kargan, snowberry, small-leaved elm, elderberry and spirea, you can also include viburnum with cherry laurel, honeysuckle with chokeberry, hawthorn with shadberry and currant.

The variegation of the hedge will help to give deren with barberry, and lush flowering - spirea with mock orange, fieldfare, hydrangea and viburnum. Fruit plants in the form of blackthorn, shadberry, barberry and golden currant will look good in the fence. And the special charm of the hedge will be given by the white turf, which is characterized by its changing appearance over the seasons.

free growing hedges

Many are wondering what is the best way to make a hedge when there is no time to trim and shape? In this case, it makes sense to consider the option of a free-growing fence, which will be distinguished by natural beauty and seem somewhat airy from the outside. But in fact, the intertwining branches of the hedge make it possible to create an impenetrable and durable frame, and for this it is enough to plant plants with a small distance relative to each other.

When planting a hedge, it should be borne in mind that the crowns of plants will actively grow, taking up a lot of space. Therefore, in small areas, it is worth planting a hedge of juniper, euonymus or quince in the form of a short curb. Large areas will allow the use of fruit species with flowering and deciduous, among the most unpretentious, Tatar honeysuckle with mock orange, elderberry, barberry, lilac, fieldfare, and park roses are distinguished.

The protective function of the fence will give the second tier, which can be low or high in relation to the first. If you make it in the form of a border or wall, you can limit and support the growth of lilacs, roses (park), hydrangeas and other plants, and such an original hedge in winter will allow you to maintain a dense structure, and if conifers were used in it - opacity.

Important points in creating a fence

The most important and first rule when creating any fence on your own is a thoughtful and accurate plan. Fences up to 2 m in height will help to determine the external boundaries on the site, which can be higher if busy roads or highways are close, and curbs from half a meter high will help to zone the space from the inside.

• from 1 to 2 large plants (in the form of common lilac, hawthorn, chokeberry)
• at least 3 plants of medium height (viburnum with derain, barberry)
• from 5 to 7 low shrubs (spirea, individual varieties of arborvitae for hedges and euonymus)

Planting selected plants should be carried out in the spring. If multi-row hedges are provided, seedlings should be placed in a checkerboard pattern. In a hedge with formation, plants need to be planted close to each other, and when planting a free type, further.

Traditional fences made of metal, mesh, wood can provide reliable protection to the site. But, only living hedges tend to harmoniously fit into the overall landscape, creating an amazing atmosphere of warmth and comfort. And many owners give priority to this type of fencing, which is why information about hedges is so relevant today - what is better to make from.


The Slavic soul is so complex that in order to create our own cozy territory, we definitely need to isolate ourselves from external fuss, noisy neighbors and prying eyes. But the prospect of constantly catching your eye on a two-meter monolithic fence can hardly be called rosy.
A do-it-yourself hedge in the country house is a creative process with a practical result that anyone who loves plants can do.

The first climbing hedge was grown in the 18th century. Since then, breeders have been working to create more and more new varieties of plants that can bear the heavy burden of responsibility for the peace and privacy of their owners.


Types of hedges

Depending on the height, the fences are divided into three categories:

• Low curbs have a height of up to 1 m. They will look most organically as a frame for flower beds, lawns and paths.



• If the plants you have chosen reach 1-2 meters, they will do an excellent job of dividing the summer cottage into functional zones.
• Reliable protection around the entire perimeter of the site is provided by tall species with a height of more than 2 m.



Of no small importance is the intensity of the haircut, depending on this point, the hedges are:

• Free growing.
• Molded.

Molded plant compositions require constant shearing, as they are based on a clear geometric shape. For molded hedges, it is better to plant representatives of the plant world with small foliage, which ensures the density of the fence.



Free-growing ones are less picky and grow in the form that Mother Nature has endowed them with.

Classification depending on the number of rows

Single-row live fences are formed in one line, planting plants at an equal distance. If the basis of your landscape creation will be shrubs, choose a step within 35–50 cm, for trees the distance increases to 70–150 cm.



Multi-row hedges are created in several tier lines, seating the participants in the composition in a checkerboard pattern. For a multi-tiered design, a variety of plants is not necessary; combinations of different varieties of the same plant, which differ in the color of needles or foliage, give excellent results with skillful use. Take a closer look at the tandems of green and purple beech, variegated and green privet.



Choosing the Right

When choosing plants, give preference to those specimens that grow in your climate zone and have been tested for strength and durability. Your attention will be worthy of unpretentious, frost-resistant species with a dense crown, which have a high ability to form shoots and recover as soon as possible after cutting.





No less spectacular is the hedge in the summer cottage of sea buckthorn, jasmine, rhododendron, wrinkled rose, barberry, lilac, honeysuckle, shadberry.



Disembarkation order

1. When selecting applicants for the purchase, pay attention to the roots and crown. The root system should not be overdried, and the crown should maintain uniformity on all sides. Suitable young seedlings under the age of 6 years.
2. The laying of the future fence is carried out in autumn or spring. The first option is suitable for winter-hardy plants that are adapted to low temperatures. The place of direct landing should be located at a distance of more than 2 m from the house and 50-150 cm from the monolithic fence.
3. Before you begin to dig a trench, mark out with a cord and two pegs. The depth of the trench should be 50 cm, the width is determined by the type of fence: for a single row - 50 cm, for a multi-tiered one - plus 0.5 m for each next tier.



Planting density (1 running meter):

• low shrubs (spirea, magnolia) - 5-7 seedlings;
• medium shrubs (cotoneaster, snowberry) - 4–5;
• tall shrubs and trees (hawthorn, vesicle) - 1-2