Journal of Practical Electronics Datagor (Datagor Practical Electronics Magazine). Making acoustic systems with your own hands Bookshelf acoustics with your own hands drawings

Do-it-yourself shelf acoustics

DIY or DIY

One day I decided to assemble high-quality acoustics for sounding a small room, as well as for use as near-field monitors when working with sound on a computer (hobby). The main requirement is an adequate sound in relation to the source. Not so that “the bottoms are sausage” or “cymbals rang”, but an adequate natural sound. So, we collect high-quality "shelf speakers".

Number of lanes

In theory, the ideal system is single-lane. But, like everything ideal, such a system does not exist in nature. Yes, the same Vizaton has very high-quality broadband speakers, but for some reason all well-known manufacturers make two-way shelf systems. And when it comes to the floor version, then 3 stripes are not uncommon. There was no particular question here - the classic two-band version: bass and treble.

Speaker selection

The main requirement for speakers is an optimal price / quality ratio. Those. it should not be "cheap" for 500 rubles, but not a mind-blowing "high-end" for $1000. Besides, I wasn't in a hurry. The idea to assemble “shelf speakers” with my own hands came a long time ago, and I threw the bait in advance to my good friend, the “sick” sound, with whom we have been constantly and fruitfully communicating on this topic for a long time.

The first to appear were HF - Vifa XT19SD-00/04 ring-rad. These are high quality 4 ohm tweeters, quite popular among audiophiles. They were planned for one set, but for some reason they did not go and ended up in my set.

LF arrived second. They turned out to be very decent midbasses from the Soundstream Exact 5.3 kit. Here you can read a little about them. It so happened that the “tweeters” burned out during installation, and the lone woofers were not needed by themselves. 4-ohm 5.5" midbasses, mounted in a die-cast aluminum basket, were immediately purchased.

Now that you have speakers, you can start creating acoustics.

Active / passive?

Each option has its pros and cons. First, you need to take into account the compactness of the speakers themselves and the associated difficulties in layout in a limited space. And it makes no sense to mount outside. Secondly, individual modules as independent components can be combined in the future, and it is also easier to repair if something happens. And thirdly, active speakers are quite expensive. Because if you make a decent amplifier (and sometimes one in each case), then it will turn out to be more expensive than the acoustics themselves. Besides, I already had an amplifier. But in any case, I am for the scheme - passive acoustics + amplifier, it is more versatile.

Hull size calculation

We have decided on the speakers, now we need to understand which case is optimal for them. Dimensions are calculated based on the sound characteristics of the woofer. There are no recommendations on the manufacturer's website, because. The speaker was intended primarily for car audio. There is no point in keeping special equipment for these purposes, unless it is your job. Therefore, an intelligent dude with a special stand comes to the rescue. As a result of laboratory tests, we obtain the estimated case size of 310 x 210 x 270 mm. During the measurements, the parameters of the phase inverter were also calculated.

By the way, many manufacturers publish recommended cabinet sizes for speakers on their websites. When such information is available, it is logical to use it, but in this case I did not have such data, so I had to do laboratory research.

Housing material

In my opinion, the most optimal material for the case is MDF. It is acoustically neutral and also slightly better in performance than chipboard. Plywood is also good, but quality plywood is not easy to find and is more expensive and harder to work with. A 22mm MDF sheet was chosen as the starting material for the body. In principle, the standard 18-20mm is enough, but I decided to do a little with a margin. There is no such thing as too much rigidity.

Housing construction and design

One of the most important steps. Before going for MDF, I advise you to decide on the design in order to immediately ask the seller to cut the sheet in parts, and at a normal point of sale there are always good machines with accurate and even cuts. At home, such a cut is difficult to obtain.

So, design. The speakers should look at least as good as the "industrial" ones, so that there is no feeling of a club of crazy hands. After all, we make not only high-quality, but also beautiful acoustics. In general, there are practically no beautiful, interesting and at the same time structurally simple acoustic systems. Beautiful acoustics are made by the Italian Sonus Faber, stunning in beauty - Magico Mini. But they are all made using precision machines, which, by definition, are not at home. Alternatively, you can order cases to a good "cabinet maker" with hands and CNC. Such work will cost, depending on where and what you order, from 10,000 rubles. up to 30 000 rub. along with materials. If the specialist is good, then the columns will look no worse, or even better than the “store” ones. In this case, I decided that I would do everything myself. Therefore, we look at things realistically and make a design without any bevels, curly cuts, etc. Those. it will be a parallelepiped. The calculated dimensions give a rather pleasant proportion, and the proportion in design is already half the battle.

What to design? Although I am connected with design by occupation, I know 3D packages, to put it mildly, superficially. At the same time, the program should be more engineering than rendering. Specialized "Kadas" for this purpose are too heavy and unnecessary. The solution was quickly found - freeware SketchUp is more than suitable for this purpose. It is so simple and intuitive that it was fully mastered in about an hour. He can do the main thing: quickly create any shapes, set dimensions, use simple textures. I think that such a program is ideal for "home" purposes. In it, you can easily, for example, design a kitchen or even a small house.

Here is the body structure:

Based on the drawing, a diagram of cutting the sheet emerges:

In general, the options are not bad in appearance, but purely constructively cause difficulties. As a result, it was decided to trim the side walls with ash veneer, and cover the remaining 4 walls around the circumference with leather, or rather with high-quality automotive leatherette. The pishchal is beautiful in itself, but the woofer has a constructive overlay on the front side of the case, which will not look very nice. Therefore, it was decided to make an additional decorative overlay (ring) for it, which will press it to the body, and at the same time add beauty to the column itself. We decided on the design and construction.

Tools

Before moving on to the next step, I will outline what basic tools are needed for the job:

Circular.

Electric jigsaw.

Grinder.

Straight arms.

Without this set, it is better to order cases from a good craftsman.

saw cut

So, we cut the budget sheet of MDF. I already wrote that it is better to saw on special machines - it's inexpensive, but it turns out exactly. But since I decided to make the case myself inside and out, then for the purity of the experiment I sawed it myself with a manual circular saw, and small pieces with a jigsaw with a guide. As expected, the perfect cut did not work. After cutting, pairs of walls (left-right, front-back, etc.) are installed in pairs, adjusted with a grinder and / or an electric planer and checked for perpendicularity with a square. And in the future, during assembly, they are finally adjusted after gluing. Loss of 2-3 mm is insignificant. But still, I recommend sawing immediately “at the base”, save a lot of time.

Case assembly

The walls are glued with PVA and tightened with screws. First, we glue the case without the front wall.

Now there is a hole for the terminal block, as well as a chamfer in order to “drown” it. Initially, according to the project, the terminal block was supposed to be placed below. But in the process, it became clear that mounting the crossover in the center through the hole for the woofer would not be very convenient, so I moved the hole for the terminal block higher, and the place for the crossover lower.

You can close the box.

Now one of the very important stages is cutting holes for the speakers on the front panel. I have already said that the ideal speaker system is single-way. Why? Because the propagation of sound goes from one source to the listener without a mismatch in time due to the difference (negligible) in the distance, which is when using a multi-band system. Therefore, the speakers are best placed as close to each other as possible. So the sound picture is "dense". We calculate the holes so that the distance between the edges of the speakers will be approximately 1 cm. The holes are sawn with a jigsaw with a circular guide.

After the chamfers are removed, we apply the terminal block and speakers, after which we drill holes for future self-tapping screws with a thin drill. Without them, firstly, the MDF itself can “spread out” when screwing in the screws, and secondly, it will be more difficult to place the speakers evenly during the final installation. For a very long time I thought about how to set the speakers relative to each other, I came to this scheme:

Screw holes on exterior surfaces must be repaired before final finishing. I used epoxy. In order not to wait until one surface hardens, I sealed each surface with adhesive tape and took on the next. When the epoxy was dry, I went through the grinder.

The veneer needs to be protected. I covered it with clear yacht varnish.

Now you need to fit the body with leatherette. There are many options for how to do this. I decided to do the following. A strip is cut 20 mm larger than the body width and slightly longer than the body circumference. On each side it is folded by 10 mm, the hem is glued to the "special glue 88". Then, on the same glue, the strip is glued around the circumference to the body. First the bottom (partially), then the back wall, then the top, then the front and again the bottom. At the last stage, before gluing, the strip is cut in place and glued end-to-end. I glued all sides at once, i.e. didn't wait for each side to dry. After each side, I took a short pause (the glue sticks quickly enough), and started on the next one.

If you really want to, then you can somehow ennoble the fazik.

Then holes are cut on the terminal block, "woofer" and "tweeter". The skin on the terminal block and HF will sink down, so the cutout diameter can be left 5-10 mm smaller. The skin on the bass will be pressed by a decorative ring, so you need to cut it so that it is not visible.

Final editing

First of all, we mount the crossover. Cross - self-made, on a good elemental base. Air core coils, tweeter film capacitors and MOX resistors are used. I didn’t solder it myself, but I ordered sensible guys.

Now we solder the desired pair of wires to the terminal block and fix it on the case. The terminal block and speakers are screwed with decorative black self-tapping screws with an asterisk head. The overlay on the “squeaks” is screwed with similar self-tapping screws, so it would be logical to use the same for the rest. The back wall is ready.

Midbass must be slipped under the skin, and pressed down with a decorative ring from above. Solder the remaining pair of wires and mount the speaker.

All? All. We fasten the speaker cable to the terminal block and begin testing.

Tests

The system was tested in the following configurations:

1. Receiver Sherwood VR-758R + acoustics.

2. Computer + Unicorn (USB-DAC) + Self-made stereo amplifier + acoustics.

3. Computer + E-mu 0204 (USB-DAC) + Sherwood VR-758R + acoustics.

A little about the configurations themselves. I personally think that at the moment the ideal option for a home music center is: computer + USB-DAC + amplifier + acoustics. The sound in the digital without distortion is removed via USB and fed to a high-quality DAC, from which it is transmitted to a high-quality amplifier and then to acoustics. In such a chain, the amount of distortion is minimal. In addition, you can use completely different backing tracks: 44000/16, 48000/24, 96000/24, etc. Everything is limited by the capabilities of the driver and DAC. Receivers in this regard are less flexible and obsolete in advance. The size of modern hard drives allows you to store almost the entire media library on them. And the tendency to subscribe to Internet content may abolish this option, although this is not the near future and is far from suitable for everyone.

I will say right away that in all three configurations the acoustics sounded great. To be honest, I didn't even expect it. Here are some subjective aspects.

1. Adequate and natural sound. What is recorded is reproduced. There are no twists in any direction. As I wanted.

2. Greater sensitivity to the source material. All flaws in the sound recording, if any, are clearly audible. High-quality mixed tracks listen perfectly.

3. Well-readable basses for such sizes. Of course, you can't fully appreciate organ music on bookshelves (it's hard to appreciate it on acoustics in general), but most of the material can be "digested" without problems. It is difficult to expect more from such babies.

4. Very good detail work. Every instrument is heard. Even with a rich sound image and a decent volume, the sound does not go into mush (the amplifier plays an important role here).

5. I want to make it louder;) Ie. acoustics does not yell, but plays smoothly. Although there is also no small merit of the amplifier itself, because. as the load increases, a good amplifier maintains linearity.

6. From long listening does not hurt the head. For me personally, this often happens, but here he plays all day and at least something.

7. Fears about the incorrect panorama and strong dependence of the sound on the position of the listener were not confirmed. As far as I know, car acoustics have a specific sound phasing due to the location of the speakers in the cabin. Namely, I read about this kit that its midbasses are more universal in this regard. Which is actually confirmed. You can sit in the center in front of the speakers, you can stand next to them sideways - the sound is excellent. There is a relationship, but it is very small.

As for the configurations themselves, the best sound quality was achieved with the second configuration.

First, a very high quality Unicorn DAC was used.

Secondly, the "self-made amplifier" is the know-how of one sensible Togliatti "sound player". Here it is in a nice little aluminum case:

In a nutshell, we managed to find a circuit solution in which the amplifier retains its characteristics when the volume changes, i.e. does not distort the sound at any (structurally permissible) volume. A lot of amplifiers (even very expensive ones) suffer from this. It was amazing to listen to how such an amplifier brought many loudspeakers to life, i.e. made them sound like they should sound. By the way, some industrial amplifiers were also redesigned according to this scheme (in particular, quite good Xindak itself), and they had a “second wind”.

Compare acoustics with something else, you ask? Yes, for example, with the ProAC Studio 110, these are quite high-quality bookshelf acoustics, here's a little about them. Compared, realized that they sound exactly no worse. The “proaks” may have a slightly lesser dependence of the sound on the position of the listener due to the specific placement of the inverter and the “tweeter”, where they somehow cleverly calculated all this. And the rest is absolutely no worse, even I personally liked my homemade products more, but we’ll write it down to subjectivity;) I also put on headphones (quite good Koss) and compared by panorama, tops and bottoms. Absolutely identical sound. Even downstairs. In general, the delight is complete.

Material Costing

Mid/bass speakers (pair): 3 000 rub.

Tweeters (pair): 3 000 rub.

Crossover (pair): 3 000 rub.

Sintepon: 160 rub.

Terminal (terminal block): 700 rub.

Screws: 80r.

MDF sheet, 22mm: 2 750r.

Scotch tape: 30 rub.

PVA: 120 rub.

Special glue 88: 120 rub.

Vibration isolation: 200 rub.

Figured ring-lining: 500 rub.

Cable: 500r.

Total: 14 160 rubles.

Some materials were or got free of charge, respectively, are not taken into account here.

In custody

In any more or less complex device or complete functional system, absolutely everything is important. When it comes to a musical system, a large number of factors influence the final result:

Soundtrack quality.

A device for playing a phonogram.

Digital-to-analog converter.

Signal amplifier.

Wires.

Speakers installed in the speaker cabinet.

Properly designed for speakers and high-quality assembled cases.

Scheme and kit for a crossover.

This is a basic but not complete list.

It is wrong to assume that the main thing is the amplifier or the main thing is the wires, or the main thing is the speakers. A home music system is like an orchestra. And if in this orchestra someone will be bad, and someone will play brilliantly, then in general it will turn out - average. Or, as a very precise example said: if you mix a barrel of shit with a barrel of jam, you get two barrels of shit.

There is another extreme. A good system costs fabulous money. So each component should cost half a million. And phonograms should be exclusively in Super Audio CD or on branded records. Like a closed society of elite audiophiles. Bullshit is everything.

I came to the conclusion that it is quite possible to assemble our own relatively budgetary system, which is described in one word “Sounds”. And if as a DAC or amplifier, due to its peculiarities, it is better to use real-life solutions, which are now very numerous. Then a properly made (independently or on order) speaker system will sound better than a “branded” one purchased for the same money. Almost all components can now be ordered online. Moreover, many manufacturers publish enclosure diagrams for the corresponding speakers. There is a lot of software for calculating the parameters of cases. There are many specialized forums on the network, and offline there are people with hands. Of course, it is impossible to be an expert in everything. As in any field, the main thing is to know the general principles.

The article does not claim to be the ultimate truth, but I hope that my thoughts and my experience will be useful to someone else.
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Designing a speaker system with your own hands is not an easy task. First you need to choose a manufacturing option, and after that draw up a plan for the direct creation of columns and take into account your financial capabilities. So, let's make a column with our own hands.

We make acoustics with our own hands

What do we need
Instruction

How to make home acoustics

Consider the production process of acoustics using the example of a 4-way audio system.

What do we need

Speakers;
Amplifiers;
Filter;
wires;
screws;
connectors;
Blanks for the body;
soldering iron;
Tin;
Rosin;
Screwdriver.

Instruction

1. Speaker selection.

For the production of this version of the audio system, the following speakers were purchased:

Tweeter (tweeter): SB Acoustics SB26STAC-C000-4;
Midrange (MF speaker): Peerless Peerless 830813;

— Subwoofer(SUBWOOFER): Peerless 830846;

2. Assembling the speaker cabinet and selecting an amplifier and filters.

A very complicated and long process, because involves preliminary calculations and modeling, so it needs to be considered separately.

a. In this case, it applies DSP digital filter which can reconfigure the system online.
b. A separate amplifier will be installed for each speaker in this system, which will significantly improve the sound quality. In this case, for low, medium and high frequencies are used amplifiers LM3886 (30W each), and for sub-low - LME49830 (100 watts each).
c. All this filling will be installed in the cases, but for now let's draw a sketch of the case, while noting the approximate volume of the chambers for the speakers:

3. Direct assembly:

a. The materials from which the body will be made are milled and cut:

b. The actual assembly of the case begins.

d. In order to suppress standing waves, we will cover the box with mid- and high-frequency speakers with a special material:

f. On the reverse side of the columns we display 8 connectors to be ordered in advance:

g. Columns are ready:

After carrying out the necessary measurements and settings, the speaker system is ready.

How to make acoustics in a car

The sound quality when installing an audio system in a car largely depends on the location of the speakers and the normal resonance of the cabinets. The level of resonance is mainly affected by the quality of the material from which the podium for the speakers will be made. On a specific example, consider the options for their assembly.

What do we need

Plywood (8-10 mm);
Hacksaw;
self-tapping screws;
PVA glue;
Epoxy glue;
The putty is thin;
Sandpaper;
Plywood or wooden planks.

Instruction

1. Foam podiums are the easiest to make.

a. Using a cardboard template, we will try on the place where the podium will be attached. Then, using a template, you will need to cut out the base of the podium and reinforcement, consisting of two rings, from plywood.
b. Inner diameter of the first ring it should be equal to the diameter of the protective mesh, a the second - the diameter of the column. Rings are glued and sit on self-tapping screws.
c. To connect the podium, six blocks are cut (two of different heights), which will give the columns a certain slope, after which the parts are glued together.
d. Mounting foam is poured into the resulting frame (the excess is removed), covered with tights and smeared with epoxy. After drying, it is leveled and cleaned.

e. A better option would be when boards from various types of wood are used in the frame instead of plywood - from spruce to mahogany.

The boards must be dry, without cracks, wide enough. The design is reinforced from the inside with two slats, and then varnished.
2. We mount the speakers in the sockets, install the podiums, and the system is ready.

Hello Datagor readers! I want to tell you about creating a speaker system using 3D printing technology. With the help of a 3D printer, I was able to build an unusual speaker system in the shape of a ball, as well as solve a number of additional problems that arise in the manufacture of acoustics.
I want to note that I do not at all advocate the use of plastic as the main material for building speakers.

Ever since my student days, I had a dream - to make columns in the form of balls. But the methods available to me in those days for creating a non-standard shaped case did not inspire me in any way. And now, after many years, I got a 3D printer.

Now here is my translation of Troels Gravesen's article about "the world's worst Philips AD 0160 dome tweeter". I think, Soviet, and many modern tweeters did not come across to him.
Most likely, few people will find this particular tweeter (tweeter, not to be confused with Twitter), but Troels' research will be useful for home-made people to assess the quality and proper use of tweeters.

Best regards, Sergei

I will show you with a real example what can be done with old speakers, namely with their speakers, in order to get an improved sound.

At first glance, making your own speakers is quite simple. However, this is misleading. First of all, it should be noted that the models are made with various elements. Depending on them, the device parameters and sound quality will be different.

There are special requirements for computer speakers. You can also make a model for a car or a studio yourself. In this case, it is very important to follow the instructions. First of all, to assemble the speakers, you should consider the standard scheme of the model.

Speaker layout

The speaker layout includes speakers, overlays, a diffuser and a crossover. Powerful models use a special phase inverter. Amplifiers can be installed with field-effect or switching transistors. Capacitors are used to improve sound quality. The woofer is selected with an amplifier. The dynamic head must be attached to the seal.

Models with one speaker

Single speaker speakers are very common. To assemble the model, you will first have to deal with the case. For this purpose, plywood is often used. At the end of the work, it will have to be sheathed. However, the first step is to make side racks. For this purpose, you will have to use a jigsaw. you can pick up a small power.

The inner side of the plywood is necessarily stitched with a vibration-proof tape. After fixing the speaker, the seal is fixed. For this purpose, glue is used. Next, it remains only to attach the diffuser. Some make a separate shelf for it and fix it with stacking screws. To connect the speaker to the plug, a terminal block is installed. How to enable speakers? For this purpose, a cable from the terminal block is used, which should lead to a power source.

Model drawing for two speakers

Speakers for two speakers can be made for home or car. If we consider the first option, then the diffuser will need an impulse type. First of all, strong plywood is selected for assembly. The next step is to cut out the bottom rack. Models with legs are very rare. To cover the veneer, you can use ordinary varnish. Vibration isolation tape on the front pillar does not need to be glued. The diffuser is attached under the speaker. To make a hole in the panel, you need to use a jigsaw. The phase inverter is fixed at the rear wall. Some make devices with horizontal speakers. In this case, the diffuser will be at the top of the structure. The speaker wires are of the two-wire type.

Devices with three speakers

Speakers (homemade) with three speakers are very rare. These devices are most suitable for multi-channel type. To assemble the model, first of all, sheets of plywood are selected. Some also advise using veneers. However, natural wood models are quite expensive on the market. Speakers should be installed in a horizontal position. Also, the device will need an amplifier.

For its fixation, metal corners are used. To connect the plates, you will need lag screws. In some cases, the plates are attached with glue. Next, the model will have to be partially covered with leatherette. The next step is to install the terminal block. In order to fix it on the case, you will need to make a separate hole. It is also important to note with regulators. Microcircuits for them are used capacitor type. When the speakers are phoning, you need to change the diffuser.

Studio devices

Studio speaker drawings involve the use of powerful speakers. The diffuser is most often used of the impulse type. Many experts recommend installing two amplifiers. For normal operation, a zener diode is required.

For the purpose of self-assembly of the speakers, the case is first made. Round holes are made on the front panel for the speakers. You will also need a separate output for the phase inverter. The layout of the columns is quite different. Some prefer to varnish the surface of the case. However, there are models covered with leather.

Computer models

Speakers for computers are often made on one speaker. To assemble the model, veneer sheets of small thickness are selected. A hole for the speaker is cut out on the front panel. The phase inverter should be located at the rear of the case. If we consider low power models, then the amplifier can be used without a resistor.

In order to adjust the volume of the speakers, special crossovers are used. These elements are allowed to be installed on a phase inverter. If we consider devices with a power of more than 100 W, then amplifiers can only be taken with resistors. Some select impulse diffusers for the model. At the end of the work, a terminal block is always installed.

Automotive modifications

Available for two or three speakers. For self-assembly of the model, you will need sheets of plywood. In some cases, varnished veneer is used. To fix the speaker, you need to make a hole in the panel. The next step is to install a phase inverter. Some modifications are made with low-frequency cores. If we consider speakers (home-made) of low power, then the phase inverter can be installed without an amplifier.

In this case, a multi-channel crossover is used to adjust the sound. Some specialists install terminal blocks behind the phase inverter. If we consider speakers with a power of more than 50 W, then the microcircuits are used for two amplifiers. The diffuser is installed as standard with an impulse type. Before fastening the case, it is important to take care of the vibration isolation layer. For the terminal block on the plate, you need to make a separate hole. Some believe that the body must be cleaned without fail. Speaker wires are suitable for two-wire type.

Open cabinet speakers

Portable speakers with an open case are quite simple to make. Most often they are made with one speaker. Holes are made on the back of the device with a drill. The plates are connected directly with lag screws. The diffuser for such devices is suitable for a pulsed type. Phase inverters are often installed with a single amplifier. If we consider powerful portable speakers, then they use a resistor crossover. It is attached to the phase inverter. Many experts recommend installing speakers on a seal.

Enclosed Devices

Speakers (homemade) with a closed case are considered the most common. Many experts believe that they are the best in terms of sound quality. Phase inverters for devices are suitable for operational type. Woofers are installed in holes. For the purpose of assembling the case, ordinary sheets of plywood are suitable. It is also important to note that there are modifications with cores. If we consider high-power speakers, then the terminal blocks are installed at the bottom of the case. The design of the model is quite different.

20W Models

Assembling 20 V speakers is quite simple. First of all, experts recommend preparing six sheets of veneer. They should be varnished at the end of the work. It is more expedient to start the assembly with the installation of speakers. The phase inverter is used pulse type. In some cases, it is installed on linings. Also, experts recommend lining rubber seals.

The speakers are powered through the terminal block. It attaches to the back panel. The phase inverter can be installed with or without an amplifier. If we consider the first option, then the cores are selected of the phase type. In this case, the woofer can not be used. If we consider speakers without an amplifier, then they use a crossover. At the end of the work, it is important to clean the body and varnish it.

50W devices

Speakers (homemade) at 50 watts are suitable for conventional acoustic players. In this case, the body can be made from ordinary plywood. Many experts also recommend using natural wood veneer. However, it is important to note that he is afraid of high humidity.

After choosing the material, you should deal with the speakers. They must be installed next to the phase inverter. In this case, an amplifier is indispensable. Many experts recommend selecting only low-frequency crossovers. If we consider modifications with a regulator, then they use an impulse diffuser. The terminal block in this case is installed last. You can always use leatherette to decorate the speakers. A simpler option is to cover the surface with varnish.

Speakers with a power of 100 W

Columns of 100 W are suitable for powerful ones. In this case, the phase inverter is taken only as a pulsed type. It is also important to note that the amplifier is installed with a crossover. Many experts recommend using veneer to assemble the case. It is more expedient to install the woofer on a lining.

Acoustic speakers

What will be the sound quality in the car, directly depends on the location of the speakers. In addition, the resonance of the hulls also matters in this matter.
Therefore, the body of the speaker used in this case must be made of a material that has sufficient resonance. As a result of this, the most suitable option would be to create columns with your own hands.
You can learn how to make acoustic speakers yourself from our article. The information will help you learn not only how to make speakers yourself, but also how to assemble a real speaker system.

Conditioning a Column

First of all, you need to find out what size the column will be. To do this, you should determine the location of its location.
Most often, the column is installed in the trunk, since there is enough space for it to have enough space. In addition, a kind of resonance is also created in the luggage compartment, so the music sounds a little different here.
You can also install speakers near the rear window, but here they will have to be more compact, since massive speakers may not fit here.

Note. However, this again depends on the position of the speaker: standing or lying down.

Dimension measurement

To find out the size of the box for the column, you should:

Decide on its location.
Determine how much space can be allocated to establish.
Measure the size of the allotted area.

Note: 30 cm long is enough for a speaker in the luggage compartment. But the speakers installed behind the rear seat should not have more than 15 cm.

Material selection

To create a column, the following materials are quite suitable:

Chipboard. By the way, finding this material can be much easier than the rest, as it is often found on sale. In addition, its price is quite affordable.
The advantage of this material is that it has a fairly high return, so the sound of the speakers will not be distorted. Also, this material is the lightest, so the design will not have too much weight.
Hard rubber (ebonite). The products are pretty good, but the sound will be a little muffled. Yes, and finding rectangular pieces of ebonite for sale is not so easy.
In addition, the product may have an unpleasant odor. The most important advantage: ebonite is difficult to ignite, therefore, in the event of a short circuit, the speaker housing will not burn out.

Wood. Any wood will do.
In this case, it is better to give preference to oak or pine, since with their help you can create a good resonance. Another advantage of the material is its attractive appearance.

Note: such a product can even be painted, so it will turn out very beautiful.

Corpus creation

You can complete the body in any convenient way.
The most suitable option is the following:

Using a hacksaw, cut out the details from the material.
Select the parts to which the speakers will be attached. In their central part, round holes should be made.

Note: The diameter of the hole must match the diameter of the bottom of the speaker.

It is also necessary to cut out small rings that will be attached to the bottom of the holes made (so that the speaker is securely fixed). The shape of these rings should resemble a plate without a bottom.
Glue the rings to the details.
Around the rings in the details, make more holes in the shape of a triangle with rounded corners.

Note: this is necessary so that the sound penetrates into the case, and does not just go out.

Small partitions should also be made for the inside of the case (their length should correspond to the length of the case itself). With their help, the phase inverter will be held.
Make small ports through which the terminals will be fixed.

Column assembly

To collect all the details in one piece, you should:

Connect the body parts with glue or self-tapping screws: rectangular parts on the sides, the bottom part, and also the part with a hole on top.
Fill the inside of the column with synthetic fluff.
Install the speaker in its intended location.

Note: The speaker wiring can be removed through any opening that is conveniently created.

Paint the frame with varnish. Thus, it will have a finished appearance.

Note: It is not necessary to use varnish for painting. Black paint may come in handy for this. And some parts can even be done in a different color.

Creating a speaker system

The acoustic system does not always indicate the presence of speakers.
You can work on creating an acoustic system in a car like this:

Make podiums out of foam. For this:
Make a template out of cardboard. Attach it to the place where the podium should be.
Using the template, cut out the base for the podium. For this purpose, ordinary plywood and fittings can come in handy.
The base consists of two rings. In this case, the diameter of the first ring must correspond to the diameter of the protective mesh. But the diameter of the second - the diameter of the column.
Rings must be connected to each other with self-tapping screws.
Cut six pieces to create a slope. Glue all the details together.
Pour mounting foam into the frame and leave it until it dries.
You get a more interesting option if you use small pieces of various tree species instead of plywood. In this case, dry pieces of wood that do not have cracks should be selected. From above, everything should be carefully varnished to make the design more reliable. For greater efficiency, everything can be fixed with two rails.
Mount the speakers in the sockets and install the podiums.

Thus, you can create acoustic speakers (see) right at home and with your own hands. The price of such pleasure will not be high, since it will only be necessary to spend money on the purchase of material.
And in general, you can use any old speakers. The main thing is that they work and be in good condition.
Of course, before starting this process, it is worth reviewing various photos and videos with this topic. The instructions are also helpful.

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