Seamless plastic. Plastic ceiling panels. Plastic sheathing

Various materials are used to finish the ceiling, including tiles. But, such a coating as there is a noticeable drawback. Seams are visible on the surface, which are difficult to disguise. There is an exit. This is a seamless tile for the ceiling, with which you can create coatings with a relief.

Styrofoam ceiling

Properly installed seamless ceiling tiles allow you to create a monolithic ceiling surface, on which the transitions between the elements of the coating are not visible. The places where the elements are connected to each other, of course, exist. But, such transitions, with the correct fastening of the material, are not noticeable.

Tiles on the ceiling without seams have the following characteristics:

the material is made from expanded polystyrene using hot stamping;
the panel has a sheet thickness of 3.5 to 15 mm;
the size of each panel is 50x50 cm;
the package usually contains 8 elements;
when buying, you need to pay attention to the edges of the panels, which are wavy or even. During installation, it is easy to lay the panels. The material is made in such a way that when laying the pattern is laid out without problems, while the joints remain invisible;
elements are produced whose surface imitates wood, stucco or stone. You can choose panels of any shade to combine with the overall style of the room.

The quality of a seamless foam ceiling may vary, and this parameter depends on the country of manufacture.

Types of seamless tiles

There are the following types of seamless panels, which are distinguished by manufacturing technology:

pressed. These are panels with a pattern. The standard thickness of such elements is 5 mm. This is the most inexpensive type of seamless cladding;
panels produced with injection treatment under the influence of elevated temperatures. Seamless sheets have a large thickness (8 - 15 mm). The tile differs in various structure and drawing. Such panels can be used to cover the kitchen ceiling, due to the water resistance of the material;
extrusion technique. Panels are produced under high pressure. During the production process, polystyrene granules are mixed with special blowing agents. Next, the panels are covered with a film that imitates various materials. Such tiles are distinguished by a small thickness, which ranges from 3 to 5 mm. Although the material is thin, it is quite durable.

Seamless tiles produced by extrusion are the most expensive compared to the same material.

The difference between tiles in shape

Seamless tiles for the ceiling differ in shape, which depends on the type of panel edges:

straight edges. These are square patterned panels. Each tile is exactly the same. When laying, the edges of the panels are so precisely and firmly in contact that a monolithic surface is obtained;
edges with a complex shape. During laying, thanks to the wavy edges of the panels, an interesting pattern of the ceiling covering is created.

Tiles with laminated coatings can be used for rooms with increased importance.

Pros and cons of seamless tiles

In addition to the fact that seamless ceiling tiles create a surface without joints, the material has the following advantages:

both a single panel and the entire ceiling covering are quite light. This is important because ceilings do not experience increased load with such a finish. Due to its low weight, the material is easy to transport and install;
moisture resistance. The coating can be cleaned with a damp sponge and even cleaning products;
good heat-insulating and noise-insulating characteristics;
simple installation that does not require special skills;
no need to mount the frame before laying the panels without seams, due to the small thickness of the material;
the ability to choose any color shade and texture.

Important: when caring for the ceiling, you need to abandon cleaning products containing solvents.

Disadvantages of seamless coverage:

brittle material. Therefore, during installation, you need to be especially careful;
Tiles are poorly breathable. For apartments, vapor permeability is not so important, but for suburban buildings it is an important indicator. So, if air exchange is disturbed in a private house, then moisture and various microorganisms will begin to accumulate above the ceiling;
at elevated temperatures, the panels may move away from the base ceiling covering. A competent choice of adhesive composition will help to exclude this phenomenon;
the material is non-combustible, but is capable of releasing toxic substances and smoke in the event of a fire in the room.

Toxic substances can be released from seamless tiles and when exposed to too high temperatures.

How to glue?

Let's figure out how to glue seamless tiles on the ceiling to get a uniform coating.

You need to prepare the tools:

building level;
roulette;
stationery knife, which can be used to cut elements. It is used if it is impossible to lay the panel along the edges of the ceiling surface;
a spatula will be needed to apply glue sold in buckets, and not in tubes;
a marker that marks the surface of the ceiling;
ladder.

Preparatory activities

Ceiling preparation consists in removing the old facing coating:

old wallpaper on the ceiling is first soaked with water, then cleaned with a spatula. After removing the wallpaper, the surface is sanded to get rid of adhesive traces;
old putty and plaster are also removed with a spatula;
whitewash is removed with soapy water, in several steps;
old paint is removed with a spatula. You can use special solvents;
water-based coloring compositions can be washed off with soapy water.

After removing the old coating from the ceiling, irregularities and defects in the form of cracks, chips and cracks are eliminated.

The level measures the height difference of the ceiling surface. If the difference is more than 5 mm, then the surface is leveled with putty. Cracks and crevices are also sealed with putty. Minor defects can be left, under a seamless tile they will be invisible.

At the final stage of preparation, several layers of a deep penetration primer are applied.

Adhesive selection

The quality installation of seamless tiles depends on the competent choice of glue. When choosing an adhesive composition, consider the following points:

adhesive with solvents is not suitable, because such a composition corrodes the tile material. It is necessary to choose special adhesive water formulations;
the adhesive must have good adhesion to any base surface, concrete or putty;
the adhesive composition is selected not too liquid, otherwise the tile will slide. If, nevertheless, the adhesive consistency is liquidish, then after applying to the tile, you need to wait a bit until the glue hardens;
choose an adhesive that does not set immediately. There should be time after applying the adhesive to adjust the position of the tiles.

Produced special adhesive compositions used for gluing foam.

Sticking

Before gluing a tiled seamless ceiling, you need to make a sketch on paper to understand how the panels will be located on the ceiling. Further, with the help of a tape measure, a pencil and a square, the markings are transferred to the ceiling surface. For convenience, divide the ceiling surface into 4 parts.

Panels are glued from the marking intersection lines. First, the first four tiles are mounted one at a time in the center of the room.

Mount seamless tiles as follows:

opening the package with the material, you need to remove the material and put it in the room for several hours. So the tiles will take room temperature, and are not deformed;
glue is applied to the panels from the rear, from each edge and in the center;
before using glue, be sure to read the instructions;
after applying the adhesive to the panel, press the tile with a little force to the surface. Be careful not to break the fragile material. You can press the panels with a sponge or a soft cloth;
for the panel to stick, you need to wait a few minutes. Immediately adjust the location of the tiles until the glue has hardened;
the following tiles are mounted in the same way. There should be no gaps between the panels;
excess adhesive must be removed immediately;
cutting elements of seamless tiles are mounted along the edges of the ceiling surface;
joints between panels are treated with acrylic sealant. It is not recommended to use silicone sealants because they turn yellow.

By observing the phased laying of tiles without seams, you can get a flat, monolithic ceiling surface.

Seamless plastic

Seamless plastic on the ceiling can be compared with plastic clapboard. Such material is often used to cover ceilings in bathrooms. The surface of the plastic can be glossy or matte. The panel thickness is 10 mm.

Installation of a ceiling made of seamless plastic can be carried out without preparatory work. Preliminary work will be needed only if the old coating was plastered and crumbling. Then the surface of the ceiling is cleaned and treated with an antiseptic solution from mold.

Before installing seamless plastic, you need to decide on ceiling lighting. By the time of installation of the coating, it is necessary to conduct wiring, and determine the location of the lamps. If the lighting fixtures are heavy, then additional ceiling mounts will be required to hold the structure.

Seamless plastic ceiling coverings are mounted according to the following methods:

harpoon. Fixation of seamless plastic is carried out using a baguette made of aluminum or plastic. A compressible bar is attached to the canvas, which straightens out in the groove;
wedge. Wedge clamps are used to adjust the tension of the seamless web;
cam. The canvas is fixed with the help of a baguette with a movable element, into which the seamless canvas is tucked.

The cam method of fixing seamless plastic is considered the most convenient. But, such a ceiling coating is recommended for small rooms. In large rooms, the moving part of the seamless plastic is pulled back. In this case, the canvas may not withstand the load.

When installing a seamless plastic ceiling, you need to consider the following points:

the plastic sheet should be 15 cm smaller than the required size;
a special heat gun is used to heat the material before installation;
the edges of the seamless web are fixed during the continuous supply of warm air;
when the edges of the canvas are fixed, the seamless coating is tucked into baguettes on the walls;
if there are protruding edges of the seamless web, they are removed with a sharp knife.

The protruding edges remain after using the technique without a harpoon.

Ceiling repair is a complicated matter, but there is a way in which a flat surface above your head appears quickly, without much difficulty. The selected material is fixed on the rack frame, suspended. Plastic panels are great for false ceiling installation.

What are plastic panels for the ceiling

The ceiling of plastic panels is mounted in shops, offices, hospitals. This type of decoration is also used in apartment renovations. PVC strips are successfully used for bathroom, toilet, hallway, kitchen. Some types of plastic can be used in living rooms: they fit well into a modern interior, combined with lamps of any design, combined with other materials.

According to the type of connection, ceiling plastic can be seamless or suture (lining). The junction of two seamless strips is thin, barely noticeable. The plane is smooth, as if monolithic. The lining forms a pattern of alternating wide and narrow strips, resembling a lining with a wooden lath. It is of two types: European, Polish. The seam panels differ in the width of the “lock” at the junction; in the polka it is narrower, less noticeable.

PVC panels are produced in different sizes. So, a standard lining has 10 centimeters wide and 6 or 3 meters long. Seamless wider - from 15 to 50 cm. Their length - 2.6; 2.8; 3 less often - 6 meters, and the thickness of the plastic - from half a centimeter to a centimeter. In addition to products made in the form of strips, there are PVC plates and sheets. The first are small square blanks for a frame false ceiling (for example, the Armstrong type), and the second are wide rectangular plates with a seamless connection.

What are the advantages of plastic panels on the ceiling

Plastic panel ceilings have many advantages. PVC products are produced in different colors, from snow-white to bright, multi-colored, covered with a metallic sheen, ornaments, and patterns. Plastic retains its perfect appearance for a long time, it is easy to care for. Other advantages of this material become apparent during installation:

installation is extremely simple, everyone can handle it;
it is light, you can work with it without an assistant;
electrical wiring is hidden under it, no need to ditch concrete slabs;
well combined with each other and with other materials;
from it you can create two-level ceilings;
accepts recessed fixtures;
if necessary, it can be easily dismantled and mounted again;
it is possible to lay insulation over plastic.

What is the difference between PVC ceiling panels and wall panels

Ceiling plastic panels are thinner and lighter than wall panels, but plastic designed for wall cladding will feel fine above your head if the frame of the structure is of high quality. Only PVC sheets are categorically not suitable for this, they are heavy and should be used in vertical structures. Wall strips up to 50 cm wide can be mounted on the ceiling.

How to calculate PVC ceiling panels

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling will be successful if you calculate the required amount of material in advance. It is more convenient to count not in square meters, but in units of goods. Count the number of strips needed to cover the entire space. To do this, the length of the wall is divided by the width of the panel. The starting strip and the ceiling plinth are bought in an amount equal to the length of the perimeter of the room.

In addition to plastic, you need to purchase material for the hanging frame. In dry rooms, a wooden beam is used, in the kitchen and bathroom - a galvanized profile. They are attached around the perimeter of the room and to the ceiling, perpendicular to the direction of future ceilings, at a distance of about half a meter from each other. Draw a diagram and calculate how many frame strips you need. Multiply this number by the length of the room to find out the footage of a beam or CD profile. The perimeter of the metal version of the base is equal to the length of the UD profile.

How to choose a PVC panel ceiling

What to look for when choosing a material for the ceiling? First of all, on the appearance and the desired color. If you want plastic that goes with any design, choose white. Plastic sheathing is matte and glossy. In large rooms, gloss looks worse than in small ones. When buying material, compare the color of each stripe. Products from different batches, even if they are of the same model, may differ markedly in shade.

Measure the length of the panels to the width of your room. There will be less waste if the strips are slightly longer than necessary. It is dangerous to buy plastic without a margin of length at all: if the room is 2.7 m wide, it is better to take 2.8 m ceilings. It is advisable to buy one more strip of plastic than necessary. PVC is a fragile material, and no craftsman is immune from accidents.

Mounting

Before attaching plastic panels to the ceiling, prepare everything you need for work. You will need materials:

wooden beam 20 by 30 mm or CD and UD profile;
U-shaped fasteners;
dowels and screws:
starting lanes;
strips for connection, external, internal corners (for multi-level ceilings);
PVC panels;
ceiling plinth and special glue for it.

And tools:

laser level (can be water);
hacksaw, grinder or metal scissors;
construction knife;
perforator;
screwdriver or stapler.

A suspended ceiling made of PVC panels with their own hands begins to be made from the base - the frame on which it will hold. Using a level on the walls, draw the outline of the structure. A bar or UD profile is fixed above the line along the entire length of the perimeter. Parallel to the long wall, every half a meter or a little more hang a beam, a CD profile. All parts of the frame are at the same height. Use a level to control. You can hang the base on special U-shaped fasteners using dowels or self-tapping screws.

Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly mounted and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Every year their range is increasing. There are plain, striped, checkered, with flowers and floral elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this variety, the ceiling of plastic panels is usually made plain. And most often - white or very close to it - with a slight shade, such as "baked milk", ecru, ivory, etc.

According to the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with glitter inserts. But since the ceiling of plastic panels is almost always made in technical rooms - kitchen, bathroom, toilet, on the balcony - small, as a rule, sizes make you choose a glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to reflection, the room seems more spacious. Also, the reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - with a matte ceiling, you need to take more lamps or increase their power.

Harmful or not

You can often hear that there is no place for plastic in the house. Maybe, but plastic is almost everywhere. They even pack goods into it, we have many products in the kitchen and in the bathroom also made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What is nice is that this material does not have pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a rag dipped in soapy water or a disinfectant solution. Plastic panels are really hygienic. Evidence can be considered the fact that the sanitary station allows them to decorate medical institutions.

There are plastic mirror panels or with mirror parts - stripes

The second point that stops many is the flammability of plastics. They really are on fire. They begin to maintain a flame at a temperature of + 360 ° C. For comparison: and fiberboard, start to burn at +250°C. If we compare these materials in terms of the amount of smoke emitted, then plastics emit 40-50% less smoke.

Another argument: the ceiling of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house, and you have a ventilated attic above, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to equip a ventilation system, which is a must in both the kitchen and the bathroom with a toilet. And to prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, build a pair of ventilation grilles into the ceiling in opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still leaky and with sufficient air exchange, no problems arise.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They differ in rigidity and weight: mechanical strength is unimportant on the ceiling, therefore the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can even crush them with two fingers. Is it possible to mount wall panels on the ceiling. It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is unclaimed. In addition, they are heavier, so the load on the frame will be slightly increased (if any) and this must be taken into account when installing it.

Now about the dimensions of the panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material whose appearance resembles a lining: the same strips, only made of plastic. The ceiling of such panels is also called slatted because the surface is very similar in appearance.

An almost flat, crack-free surface, with hardly distinguishable joints, is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost imperceptible: the front surface is even and smooth, and on the sides there is a spike and a groove, as on a conventional lining, with which the skin is assembled.

There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with it and it is used little: it is necessary if columns or other non-linear surfaces are trimmed, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from rails.

The advantages of ceilings made of plastic panels include the ease of care for them: almost any contamination is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - it depends on the quality of the plastic.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

When buying PVC rails, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with the help of which the ends and joints are formed. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and on how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a false ceiling or attach plastic directly to the main one.

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

On the one hand, a suspended ceiling allows you to covertly lay communications without chasing the walls. On the other hand, it "eats" some height. It will take a minimum of 3 cm. But this is if the lamps are installed ordinary, and not built-in. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main one by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except for furniture or LED ones. If you put them in sufficient quantities and separately illuminate the mirror, then the illumination should be enough.

Assembling the frame

When installing a false ceiling, a frame is assembled from guides. Most often, profiles are used to work with drywall. If you are doing the ceiling in the bathroom or in the kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms, this is not critical. They also assemble a frame from wooden bars of 30 * 30 mm or a larger section.

They nail the strips or profiles first around the perimeter, putting them all in level. Then, on standard suspensions (there are two types) or wooden bars, intermediate guides are fixed in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane as those installed earlier (it’s easier to do if you pull the threads between those already installed and align them).

If you decide to make a minimum indent, just to lay a corrugated hose - 3 mi, then the planks are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled with linings - pieces of plywood, wedges made of wood, etc. In this case, the framework looks something like this.

Installation of starting strips

After the frame is assembled, you can begin the installation of plastic panels. It begins with the installation of the start profile. In the case of a ceiling, a ceiling molding is also used.

It is attached close to the profile or bar fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are cut at an angle of exactly 45 °. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to gaps. Against the background of a white ceiling and white profiles (or colored ones, it doesn't matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover them with putty, but it is better to cut them off clearly: exactly exactly along the length of the wall or with a light - 1 mm - spacing.

The cut off bar can be glued or screwed with self-tapping screws. Ceiling molding is better - to glue (on liquid nails). So the joint turns out to be perfect: when gluing, you press the bar tightly, screwing onto the “bugs” you cannot achieve this effect, since it twists forward a little.

On the side that goes to the wall, a thin strip of glue is applied in a zigzag pattern. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can take 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along the entire length and torn off. There should be glue on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8 depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then apply it in place. To be sure that the bar is level, take a rule, a ruler, an even bar and check the level of the glued starting profile. If necessary, until the glue has finally set, the bar is adjusted.

Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the planks, they can be moved. After 8-12 hours, the adhesive will harden and it will be possible to continue the installation.

If, during gluing, “liquid nails” squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it. Wait until completely dry, then pry with a sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and there will be no traces left. If you try to remove it with liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

After the glue has dried, you can begin the installation of the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already mounted skirting boards to another, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut panels of this length. You do not need to make them across the entire width or length of the room - they will not become in profile. If the geometry of the room is ideal, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size, make several pieces, adjusting the length as you go. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or grinder.

The first panel enters the previously installed molding from three sides. She is placed with a spike forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the trim profile is made of soft plastic, the top part (mounting shelf) will flex, making installation difficult. To make the deflection smaller, this edge can be grabbed with self-tapping screws. So it will be easier to insert the bar, otherwise you have to correct it with a spatula, setting the panel in place. It should go into the baseboard or starting profile exactly along the entire length. The inserted strip is fixed to each guide with a self-tapping screw. For fastening to a wooden frame, you can use a stapler with staples (if you mount it in a bathroom or kitchen, then take the staples from stainless steel or galvanized).

The setting of subsequent bands is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it enters the plinth by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled, lifting the middle with the hand and eliminating the deflection, tap on the edge with the palm, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to make it sit tight. Below you will see that there is no gap at the junction, which means the strip has become normal.

If there is an assistant, he supports the installed panel so that it does not fall out while you fasten it to the screws (brackets). If you work alone, you can eliminate the sagging by sticking small pieces of double-sided tape on the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. So collect all the panels.

During installation, do not forget to cut holes for installing fixtures. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring nozzle, you can try with a jigsaw, but if you have a good command of the tool and you can make a round hole. As it turned out, you can make a hole with an ordinary drill with a thin drill ... how? Watch in the video. There are a couple more good tips in there.

Having installed a strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If this is not done right away, then problems may arise: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. And if you put the last strip on glue? Have to break. Therefore, we install and check the performance immediately.

Installing the last panel

Most of the difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be cut. Measure the actual distance from one side of the ceiling and from the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or difficult about this. And then there are two options:

The cut strip is simply inserted into the pre-glued starter profile or plastic plinth. With sufficient panel width, this is possible. But then you need to subtract about 5-7 mm from the measured distance and cut off the strip in this way. Otherwise, you won't put it in. And so it has to be carefully corrected with something thin (steel spatula) so that it falls into place. After a few attempts, it still works out ... But besides the difficulties with installation, there is another drawback here: after a while, since the strip is a little shorter, it moves away (it sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the distance measured earlier on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the thrust bar. Then it is glued in its pure form on “liquid nails”. Only glue is applied not to the strip, but to all guides. And the one along the wall, and on the perpendicular laying (to which they were attached with self-tapping screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied it, pressed it down, set it aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed it. The disadvantage of this method is that this strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in stock - just in case.

Installation of a plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost completed. It remains to install the last plastic plinth. On it, the mounting plate is first cut off: leave only the plinth. After it, you also cut it at the corners at 45 °, try it on, cut it off exactly. Having tried it “dry” again and making sure that the size is correct, the plinth is smeared with glue, only both shelves are already: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will be glued to the wall.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

Actually, the installation is completed. But sometimes one more operation is necessary: covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not needed if you bought high-quality panels that have perfect geometry - French and Belgian. After their assembly, there is no need for correction: there are no sags that form due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, we take acrylic sealant, insert the tube into the mounting gun, and fill all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, and also the junction of the plastic plinth with the ceiling. Often there are so many gaps that you have to go through the entire perimeter.

Fill the gaps in small sections of 30-40 cm, removing all unnecessary and leveling the seam. Acrylic levels well until it sets, which is a matter of seconds. Therefore, they smeared a piece, corrected it. If everything is ok, move on. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it’s more convenient with your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. Having smeared a piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Excess putty evenly cut off with a sharp corner of the spatula, then wipe everything with a damp sponge until it is clean, otherwise you will not wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.

After the acrylic dries, it can be drawn into the seam. You have to take the tube again and fill the gaps that have appeared, rub it, remove the excess and wash off the smeared. This, the second time, is usually the final one. After drying and this layer, stains remain on the plastic ceiling. Wipe them with a damp clean sponge and then gently rub with a soft cloth to a shine. Now the ceiling of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the fixtures, the repair can be considered completed.

How to mount to the ceiling

If the ceiling is already flat and does not need to be leveled, plastic panels can be mounted directly on it. The order of work is the same: first, the starting profile, then cut-to-size strips are inserted into it, fixing at least every 50 cm.

Choose fasteners depending on the material from which the ceiling is made. Carnations or staples from a stapler can be beaten into a tree. It is more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws will not work, and you will be tormented by drilling a hole for the dowel for each fastening. Then it’s better to assemble the frame with a minimum indent from the ceiling and then assemble everything as described above.

Another option is to glue on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its minus is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-separable and it will have to be completely dismantled if something happens.

Lamps in the ceiling made of plastic panels

It's not about design or quantity - here everyone is determined by himself, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install conventional lamps at 220 V or with a step-down transformer at 12 V. In the first option, ordinary incandescent or housekeeper lamps are installed, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate machine with an RCD should be allocated for lighting the bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.

Features of installation and selection of luminaires for 220 V

If you install lamps for 220 V, and put even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps in them, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the case. Due to the fact that the lamp is heated, its body also becomes very hot. From the heated case, the plastic darkens and warps over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some kind of flexible heat-insulating material onto the body.

The second point concerns electrical safety when working in 220 V lighting. It is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection in the bathroom: not lower than IP44. This means that the lamp housing is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. The second point: for the most part, they are rather bulky, since the case is usually ceramic. Just hanging it on plastic will not work: mortgages will be needed. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in those places where the lamps will be attached.

Halogen and LED

Since this type of lamp requires only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower here. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the shield after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: the maximum length of the wire to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. Lamps work normally even at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At a higher voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.

If you decide to put a transformer outside the bathroom for added safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is rather big. Then it will have to be transferred to the bathroom and hidden behind a false ceiling made of plastic panels (the thickness of the device is about 3-4 cm).

Sometimes a transformer is put on each lamp. This is normal, it just costs more, but with a large distance between the lamps it is justified.

Ceiling have a lot of positive characteristics. They are practically not susceptible to moisture, which determines the scope of their application in interior decoration. , made of polyvinyl chloride, is environmentally friendly and does not emit harmful fumes when heated.

Such a false ceiling is very easy to care for. Stains of grease and soot are easily washed off with a sponge and any household detergent. plastic does not absorb unpleasant odors.

It's important to know! Do not use organic or synthetic solvents to remove stains. The PVC material may break.

The design of the suspended ceiling system made of plastic panels allows you to install it very quickly in almost any room. Usually it is used for finishing balconies and loggias, bathrooms and showers, bathrooms and kitchens.

It will hide all the flaws and irregularities of the old ceiling and hide any communications passing through it. In PVC panels, it is very easy to mount point lighting devices or install overhead chandeliers or ceiling lamps.

How to choose panels for the ceiling

On the building materials market, you can find all kinds of plastic wall and. Wall slats and suspended ceiling panels do not differ from each other.

The only difference is in the technology of corner joints along the walls. There are no such knots on the ceiling. In all other respects, the installation technology is almost identical.

There are seam and seamless panels. The first ones are made to imitate a wooden lining or a block house. The second option is designed in such a way that the panels joined to each other make the seam almost invisible (hence their name).

Plastic ceiling panels may have the following dimensions:

Length - 2.7 m, 3 m, 6 m
Width - 20 cm, 25 cm, 30 cm, 33 cm.
Thickness - from 8 mm to 25 mm

A pattern is applied to the front surface of the plate by offset printing. It can be of different colors and imitate natural cut stone or wood of almost any species. The glossy (front) side of the panel is covered with a protective polyethylene film, which must be removed before installation on the ceiling.

Ceiling rack panels measuring 6 m are usually used for finishing large industrial premises. The most common sizes for interior decoration are slats 2.7 - 3 m long, 25 mm wide and 8 mm thick.

When choosing plastic in a store, be sure to ask the seller for a quality certificate for the product. On the building materials market, it is rare, but still there are fakes from low-quality raw materials.

It can also be identified by an unpleasant chemical smell. Such counterfeit products do not have the necessary strength characteristics. Now you know how to choose ceiling panels.

What elements does the plastic ceiling consist of?

Before you calculate the materials, you need to familiarize yourself with the set of parts that make up the ceiling. The design of the ceiling suspension system includes:

Frame attached to existing ceiling
Ceiling skirting board with cut-out for panels
Corners for joining skirting boards
PVC plastic panels
Fasteners for plastic (zinc-plated self-tapping screws with a press washer 25 mm)

The ceiling frame can be made of wooden beams or galvanized metal profiles for plasterboard ceilings. The second option is more reliable for use in rooms with high humidity.

It's important to know! The use of a frame made of wooden beams in wet rooms can cause its deformation. This will lead to a curvature of the ceiling surface.

For a metal ceiling frame, a guide wall profile UD and a bearing or ceiling profile SD are used. For fastening the ceiling profile to the interfloor ceiling, direct suspensions (U-shaped) are used.

The frame is fastened to the ceiling and walls with dowels and self-tapping screws 6 x 40 mm. If it is necessary to connect the profiles to each other, then the fastening is carried out using a crab cross connector and galvanized metal screws with a 12 mm drill.

For the calculation of materials, there are rules that facilitate this operation. They are listed below and will practically not cause difficulties even for novice home craftsmen.

The number of wall profile UD is equal to the perimeter of the ceiling
Ceiling profiles are placed on the ceiling as follows:
The extreme ends of the CD profile must go inside the UD profile
The distance between the wall and the first (last) profile should be 300 mm
The distance between adjacent profiles is not more than 600 mm
Hangers for fastening the profile are mounted on the ceiling in increments of 1 m
For fixing one suspension, 1 dowel and a self-tapping screw are enough
The wall profile UD is fastened with dowels in increments of 35-40 cm
The area of plastic panels is equal to the area of the ceiling + 3% (reserve for trimming)
The ceiling plinth is fixed with galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer at intervals of 20-25 cm.
Ceiling panels are fastened to the UD and CD profiles with a self-tapping screw with a 25 mm press washer

The height to which the ceiling is lowered depends on the type of lighting fixtures installed. If spotlights are used, this value is 12 cm.

The markup is carried out as follows: The lowest point of the ceiling is determined and the height of the future ceiling is measured with a tape measure. From it, using a level, along the perimeter, points are transferred to the walls with an interval of 1 m.

The points on the walls are interconnected with a painting thread (the resulting line shows the lower edge of the UD wall profile). Axes of bearing profiles are applied to the ceiling. On them with an interval of 1 m put marks for mounting U-shaped suspensions.

Assembly and installation of a metal frame

Along the line marked on the walls with dowels and self-tapping screws in increments of 35-40 cm, a wall profile is attached. According to the marks on the axes of the ceiling profiles, P-suspensions are fixed with dowels 6 x 40 mm. The perforated legs of the suspensions are bent at an angle of 90 degrees down.

A ceiling profile is mounted to the legs of the suspensions with 12 mm metal screws. It has a wide closed shelf down. There are 2 screws for each leg. The edges of the CD profiles are brought into the UD profile and also fixed with self-tapping screws

Note! To facilitate the installation of the CD ceiling profiles, it is recommended to pull the cord from the parallel UD wall profiles in the direction perpendicular to the installation of the CD profiles. This will give a guide to the broken horizon.

Plastic sheathing

A ceiling plinth is attached to the wall corner from below with self-tapping screws with a press washer. Fasteners are carried out with an interval of 20-25 cm. The plinth has a special groove into which the ceiling panel is inserted.

To connect the corners to each other, you can use ready-made plastic corners. If they are not there, then the plinth in the corners is cut at 45 degrees. It is convenient to do this using a joiner's miter box. When the plinth is installed, the installation of plastic rails begins. They are cut to size with a hacksaw. For joining together, seamless plastic has a groove and a spike.

Before attaching the ceiling panels, all electrical wiring must be installed under the ceiling.

The first rail is inserted into the grooves of the ceiling plinths and fixed with a self-tapping screw with a press washer. Ceiling plastic panels are fastened to the upper wall of the plate groove to the UD profile and CD profiles.

The second plate is inserted into the groove of the first with a spike and lightly tapped with the palm of your hand until it is fully seated and the gap between the plates is eliminated. After that, the second plate is fixed to the frame in the same way as the first. In the panels, where there should be lamps, holes are cut out with a crown. Spotlights are inserted into them and mounted on the previous panel.

Lighting devices are immediately connected and checked for their performance. The last panel is cut to length and holes are drilled with a drill for fastening to the profiles near the wall. In them, the panel is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws and after that the assembly of the PVC ceiling is completed.

The easiest and cheapest option for finishing the ceiling are plastic panels. For their installation, there is no need to acquire special building skills. The installation process is quite simple and straightforward. Such material will be relevant both for residential bedrooms, office space, and for the humid atmosphere of the bathroom.

They do not get wet, do not change their color and do not sag over time.

Ceiling plastic is made of polyvinyl chloride, which does not emit toxic substances and is perfect for indoor use. This is a thin, 8-10 mm thick, and rather fragile material that has a different texture and a wide range of colors.

Thanks to plastic ceiling panels, you can implement design solutions of any complexity. Stack plastic in any direction, creating unique images. The design allows you to embed lighting elements.

Ceiling panel properties:

Due to its design features, plastic panels have good durability. They consist of two main strips: front and working, between which stiffening ribs are laid. This creates the effect of a honeycomb structure, which contains an air gap in its cavity.
They have heat-shielding properties.
They work as a sound insulator.
They don't burn.
Full waterproof.
Withstands major leaks even at the joints.
Have a long service life(more than 10 years).
Do not fade when exposed to sunlight.

Production technology:

First, a mixture of polyvinyl chloride is prepared and additional additives that make the material smooth, durable and designed for a certain temperature range.
The solution is immersed in the extruder, after exiting from which even strips of plastic are obtained.
After cooling, they are cut into a length of 2, 5, 6 meters.
Quality control is carried out.
The surface of the plastic is covered with special films different colors, or spraying is applied, imitating wood, metal, three-dimensional patterns.
In conclusion, the material is covered with a protective layer.

Since the material has excellent performance, it is used for finishing bathrooms, toilets, bedrooms, hallways, offices, swimming pools. Also, as a result of high frost resistance, PVC material can be used on loggias, balconies, garages, basements.

Often, there are huge shopping centers with plastic ceilings. Lightness and cheapness make plastic simply indispensable.

Kinds

Plastic for the ceiling is distinguished by appearance:

Glossy- visually increase the space, but create glare.
Matte- absorb light, reducing .

Connection method:

Suture- fastened with a visible lock and create a three-dimensional look.
Seamless- when joined, they do not form a pronounced separation.

By type of performance:

leafy– Attached only to perfectly flat surfaces.
in the form of a tile- allow you to create complex ornaments.
typesetting stripes- the most popular and easy to install.

Among the variety of PVC panels, it is important not to confuse the ceiling and wall options. Ceiling ones are lighter and more fragile, which requires careful handling.

Take a three-meter sheet in your hands and try to lift it, this is quite simple to do. Wall, on the contrary, have a more tangible weight and bend less with a large length. If you press your finger on the ceiling panel, it will easily succumb. Wall have wider stiffeners.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among craftsmen and consumers, plastic was able to gain indestructible authority, given the main advantages of this material:

Installation only takes a few hours depending on the square of the ceiling.
Externally, the product looks aesthetically pleasing and very modern.
Plastic helps to make the surface perfectly flat without any additional measures.
Cavity behind suspended structure Allows for easy wiring.
You can easily insulate the ceiling. This applies not only to bedrooms and offices, but also to bathrooms with high humidity. When laying a mineral bath, lay a layer of vapor barrier, this will protect the heat-insulating material from getting wet and mold.
Designed for significant fluctuations temperatures.
Do not crack with time.
Easy care. You can wash the ceiling with ordinary glass mops. Since the surface is perfectly flat, dirt is removed even without the use of special detergents.
Do not ignite.
Do not turn yellow over time, however, it is better not to smoke in a room with plastic ceiling panels, as tobacco smoke tends to be absorbed, forming characteristic stains.
Environmentally friendly and have no foreign smell. Even when melted, they do not emit harmful substances.
Hides all communication pipes.

Despite all the advantages, plastic panels have their drawbacks:

Limited forms, therefore, it is simply impossible to make a multi-level ceiling out of plastic.
Due to the visible seams between the panels, significantly loses in appearance.
start to warp at temperatures over 60 degrees.

How to choose?

Choosing ceiling panels is quite simple.

You need to take into account several nuances:

Opt for seamless styles. Checking their ownership is very simple. Sew the two strips together, or ask the salespeople to do it for you to see what the seam looks like. It should be barely noticeable, since without fastening to the profiles it is impossible to achieve the ideal. There will be no visible joints on the ceiling.
For residential premises do not buy goods made in China, as they break very easily during installation. They can be installed where aesthetics will be in second place, and there is a need to save money.
trace so that the surface is even without obvious drops and bumps.
In recent years, the material of domestic production has proven itself well.

Depending on the manufacturer and the length of the strips, the price of PVC panels also differs. The market value of a material 3 meters long on average ranges from 150 to 200 rubles.

If you need 6-meter strips, then you should prepare for a price of 270-320 rubles. First of all, pay attention to the quality and color scheme, and then look at the price. There are times when cheap material is made no less soundly than its expensive counterparts. Then it makes no sense to overpay. They will last the same amount of time.

Firstly, to calculate the amount of material, you need to determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling by multiplying the lengths of the sides together.
Secondly, divide the result by the area of one panel. As a rule, these data are indicated on the packaging. However, if you haven't visited the store yet, but know that you will be buying 3 meter strips with a width of 250 mm, then their area will be 0.75 square meters. In the case of 6 meters - 1.5 square meters.
Thirdly, add 15% to the resulting value for cuts, rounding the final number to a higher value. This will give you the number of lanes you need.

How to fix?

Ceiling plastic is mounted on a pre-assembled structure made of a durable metal profile. Also, it is possible to use a wooden frame, however, this option is not suitable for the bathroom and other rooms with high humidity.

If you correctly install the base, then further installation will go quickly and without unnecessary debris.

Required materials and tools:

plastic panels;
profile UD;
profile CD;
starting L-profile for hiding the ends of the panels;
dowels and screws;
drill;
screwdriver;
level;
metal scissors;

Step by step installation instructions:

Step one. At the initial stage of installation of the ceiling system, a frame is created from galvanized profiles. To do this, the level is measured, and marks are made on the walls where it is necessary to fix the UD-27 profile. These will be the guides around the perimeter. It is worth noting that the step between the fasteners should not be less than 40 cm, the distance of 50 cm is considered optimal. The crossbars from the rails are made using the CD-60 profile with a step of 60 cm. .
Step two. A plastic L-profile is attached to the rails using self-tapping screws.
Step three. At this stage, all the necessary wires are laid.
Step four. We proceed to the installation of plastic panels, which we cut strictly along the length of the ceiling using metal scissors. We mount the first strip in the L-profile, carefully fixing it with self-tapping screws along the entire length. The following lanes are connected with a lock. In such situations, the starting profile serves as a hiding element, the ends of the panels go there.
Step five. The most important stage in the installation of the ceiling is the installation of the last strip. As a rule, it has to be cut. In such a situation, the principle “measure seven times - cut once” is, after all, by the way.

To make a plastic ceiling beautiful, you need to follow a few simple rules:

Seams between panels should be located parallel to a source of direct sunlight. This will help hide the junction.
When choosing plastic pay attention to its strength. Press down on the edge of the panel with two fingers. The deformation should be small.
Plastic should be able to bend well and at the same time not to break, so its fragility is checked.
Give preference to PVC panels with a large number of stiffeners. This will help create a strong structure.

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