How to assemble a frame from a drywall profile. Features of the construction of the frame for drywall for walls and ceilings. Create a layered wireframe

Plasterboard structures in the vast majority of cases are assembled on a frame made of galvanized profile. In this article, I want to talk about how and with the use of which particular components the frame for the plasterboard partition and the crate are mounted when leveling the wall with the help of gypsum plasterboard.

GKL partition in the process of installation.

First, a brief introduction to profiles and supporting materials:

  • The CD ceiling profile has a standard size of 60x27 millimeters. It has a relatively low bending rigidity due to the low height of the side walls. Attaches to capital structures with a step of no more than 80 cm;

Ceiling profile CD.

  • The guide ceiling profile UD with a section of 27x28 mm is designed to connect the ends of the ceiling CD with the main structures of the building at a right angle. It is deprived of corrugation of the walls, which increase the rigidity in bending. A typical fastening step is 50 - 60 centimeters;

Ceiling guide UD.

  • Rack profile CW, as the name implies, is intended for the manufacture of frame racks. The wall configuration provides maximum rigidity with respect to bending load. Rack profile dimensions - 50x50, 50x75 and 50x100 mm; the wider it is, the higher its bending strength;

CW with a section of 50x75 millimeters.

  • The height of the guide profile UW is always 40 mm, while the width lies in the same range as that of the rack - 50, 75 and 100 mm. Purpose UW - connection of racks with adjoining structures at a right angle. It is attached with the same pitch as the ceiling guide profile;

Guide profile UW.

  • Direct suspension - U-shaped mount that allows you to fix long sections of the ceiling or any other profile to the ceiling or main wall;

Direct suspension with its main dimensions.

  • Corner profile - a perforated corner to reinforce the outer corners of the walls. It is laid under putty and protects the corner from accidental damage (for example, when transporting furniture).

Perforated galvanized corner.

Corner galvanized profiles are not the only material for protecting corners. For the same purpose, perforated plastic corners with reinforcing meshes are used. I prefer another way to reinforce the outer corners: after finishing the finishing work, a decorative PVC outer corner is glued onto the painted surface.

The corner of the drywall partition is protected from damage by a decorative plastic corner, seated on a silicone sealant.

For fastening are used:

  1. Self-tapping screws for metal (galvanized or phosphated) 9 mm long for connecting profiles to each other;

Self-tapping screw for connecting frame elements.

  1. Dowel screws size 6x60 - 8x80 mm. They fix the guide profile and suspensions.

Dowel screws size 6x60 mm.

To clarify: for fastening to wooden walls and ceilings (including plastered partitions in stalinkas), you can use ordinary phosphated self-tapping screws 45 - 70 mm long.

Tool

Now - about what you will have to stock up on from the tool before starting work.

The main tool for the assembly of drywall structures.

Restrictions

GKL can only be used for finishing and installation internal walls and partitions. It is not used on the street.

GKLV (moisture resistant material) racks for high humidity(due to the low hygroscopicity of the gypsum core and the presence of antiseptic additives); constant contact with water will cause it to swell just like any other plaster product.

Even moisture-resistant drywall is contraindicated in prolonged contact with water.

Mounting

Wall alignment

First - about how to install the frame under the drywall on the wall when it is leveled:

  1. On the adjacent walls, floor and ceiling, the plane of the frame is marked. The smaller the distance from the guide profile to the main wall, the smaller the useful area of ​​​​the room will be inaccessible after the completion of work. The distance can be increased only if it is necessary to insulate the wall or when laying engineering communications of a significant cross section behind the cladding (ventilation ducts or sewers);

When marking, mark the line of the future cladding on the floor, then transfer it to the ceiling with a plumb line and connect the two lines with markings on the walls made along a ruler or profile.

A plumb line will help you mark the floor and ceiling in the same plane.

  1. Along the markings along the perimeter of the future false wall, a UD ceiling guide profile is attached with dowel screws. The step between the attachment points should not exceed 60 cm;
  2. With a step of exactly 60 cm, vertical lines for attaching the ceiling profile are marked on the main wall;
  3. Along these lines, with a step of about 80 cm, direct suspensions are fastened with dowel-screws;
  4. Ceiling profiles are cut to size and inserted into the guides;
  5. Each ceiling profile is alternately aligned with a ruler, a long level or an edge of another CD profile pressed against it, after which the ears of the suspensions are attracted to it with metal screws. The free part of the ears is bent towards the wall.

Finished crate for leveling the wall.

Nuance: if the height of the wall exceeds the length of the drywall sheet, it is advisable to mount a horizontal jumper at the connection of each whole sheet with an additional one. The edges of adjacent sheets must always be fastened to a common profile to avoid cracking at the seams. Jumpers are made from the same CD with side walls trimmed and bent at the ends.

Lathing with jumpers for connection with additional sheets.

After installing the last CD, the frame is ready for sheathing.

How to make a frame for drywall on a wall with insulation?

The instructions are not difficult. After fastening the guide profile and straight hangers, the wall is closed with glued mineral wool slabs, the thickness corresponding to the distance from the main wall to the sheathing.

Do not use foam for wall insulation. Yes, its price is lower, but vapor permeability is also lower. With poor ventilation of the room, a situation is possible when water vapor will pass through the plasterboard and condense on the insulation, forming puddles on the floor.

The ears of the suspensions, bent at right angles to the wall, are passed directly through the slots in the insulation plates, made with a sharp knife. When installing ceiling profiles and sheathing the frame, the insulation will be securely pressed against the wall.

The insulation is securely fixed with the elements of the crate.

How to make a frame for drywall on the wall, if the length of the ears of direct suspensions is not enough to fix the crate at the right distance from the main wall?

Here are two simple solutions:

  1. Connect the suspensions in pairs, pulling the ears of the first and second suspensions to each other with self-tapping screws;

Two hangers connected in series will provide the desired distance from the wall.

  1. Instead of a crate from a ceiling profile, assemble a frame from a rack profile at the desired distance from the wall. How to do this, I will explain in the next section.

Partition

How to make a drywall frame for walls between rooms?

  1. The marking of the partition line is completely identical to that described above: it is performed using a tape measure, ruler, pencil and plumb line;
  2. According to the marking, the UW guide profile is attached to the capital structures with dowel screws. Step - the same 50-60 cm;
  3. On the floor and ceiling, the positions of the racks are marked in increments of exactly 60 cm. The markings should be a couple of centimeters away from the UW guide: these marks will come in handy when you begin to sheathe the partition with drywall;

The step between the axes of the racks must be exactly 60 centimeters.

The accuracy of the step between the uprights is important because the width of the sheet (120 cm) must be a multiple of this step. Then the edges of adjacent sheets will fall exactly in the middle of the racks.

  1. The racks are cut to length and fastened according to the marks made earlier with metal screws. If the height of the partition exceeds the length of the sheet, in this case it is worth connecting the racks with horizontal jumpers. They are cut from the rack profile.

Having made cutouts in the racks, you can use the cavities in the partition for laying communications.

How to cut a door into a partition?

  1. In the lower guide profile, a gap is left along the width of the doorway;
  2. A vertical stand is mounted on one of its edges;
  3. The box with the door leaf installed and wedged in it is attracted to the rack profile by self-tapping screws 16-25 mm long screwed through it. It would be a good idea to pre-apply a strip of mounting foam on the profile or outside of the box;
  4. Similarly, the second rack is attached to the second side;
  5. From above, a jumper between posts from the same CW profile is attracted to the horizontal crossbar of the door frame.

Binding profile door block.

How to install a light window in a partition with your own hands (for example, in a bathroom)?

The only difference from the door is that horizontal lintels are attached both above and below the window opening.

Door and skylight in the plasterboard wall of the attic bathroom in my house.

How to make a frame for shelves or niches?

  • The frame of the partition is made double, with the distance between the guide profiles and the uprights equal to the estimated depth of the niches or shelves (of course, adjusted for the thickness of the skin);
  • Neighboring racks are interconnected by horizontal jumpers from the rack profile;
  • With a niche depth of more than 25 - 30 cm, additional connections are mounted between the two frames, which will become a support for horizontal surfaces.

Finished partition frame with niches.

Little tricks

How to increase the rigidity of the partition?

  • Use rack profile greater width(not 50, but 75 or 100 millimeters);
  • If minimum wall thickness is important to you, invest in studs mortgages from a bar section 50x50 mm;

Racks with wooden mortgages.

  • When installing a partition, I simply connected rack CW in pairs, turning them in opposite directions, and nesting each other.

The maximum rigidity of the partition in the photo with its minimum thickness is provided by the pairwise connection of the rack profile.

In addition: the strength of the partition will increase markedly with a two-layer plasterboard sheathing. Sheets of the first and second layers are fastened with overlapping horizontal and vertical seams. The first layer is fastened with self-tapping screws 25 mm long at the rate of 25-30 pieces per sheet, the second - with self-tapping screws 45 mm long at the rate of 50-70 pieces per sheet.

How to ensure maximum sound insulation between rooms separated by a plasterboard partition?

  1. When assembling the frame, lay under the guide profiles damper tape. It will exclude the transmission of acoustic vibrations from the partition to the capital structures of the building, thereby cutting off low-frequency noise;
  2. Complete the bulkhead frame mineral wool. Lay the plates without gaps: each cavity will become a resonator that amplifies the sound;

The frame is filled with mineral wool slabs.

  1. Finally, the most effective soundproofing can be arranged acoustically decoupling wall surfaces. To do this, the guide profile is attached along the perimeter of the partition in two rows, and the racks are installed in a checkerboard pattern. Each post contacts only one side of the baffle.

Conclusion

As you can see, the installation of frames from the profile is simple and does not require any specific skills. You can study the process of assembling the crate more clearly by watching the video in this article. I look forward to your additions and comments. Good luck, comrades!

This article is about what and how to assemble a frame from a drywall profile. In it, I will describe the order of work, the design of the frames and the tool used in their assembly. Let's start, however, with why a galvanized profile is the optimal material for the crate.

Lathing for leveling the wall with drywall.

Why Profile

When assembling the frame, we have to choose between an inexpensive bar with a section of 40x40 - 50x50 mm and a profile. I strongly recommend choosing a profile for the following reasons:

  • He always has ideal geometry. The bar usually has to be sorted out, while a significant part of the material goes to waste due to bends and "propellers";
  • Geometry and dimensions of galvanized steel part remain constant for any fluctuations in humidity. Wood swells in wet weather (this is, in particular, associated with rubbing wooden door jambs on rainy days) and warps when dried. The deformation of the frame often leads to the appearance of cracks on the drywall along the seams;

Deformation of the crate on the ceiling led to the appearance of a crack.

Reinforcing the seams solves the problem only with small deformations. Significant bending of the bar will inevitably lead to damage to the fine finish.

  • Galvanization in living quarters serves indefinitely. The bar cannot boast of this: mold, rot and insects often lead to a loss of structural strength or even its destruction after 10-15 years.
    Of course, there are methods for protecting wood from these factors (for example, sequential impregnation with an antiseptic and drying oil), but they deprive wood of its main advantage - cheapness - and significantly increase the time spent on assembling a frame or crate.

Woodworms can render a wooden frame unusable in just a few years.

materials

Profiles

Now - about what types of galvanized profile can be found on sale.

For the assembly of crates and frames, only four of its types are usually used:

The length of the guide profiles - 3 meters, rack and ceiling - 3 or 4 meters.

In addition, if desired, in hardware stores you can find:

  • Corner perforated profile to reinforce the corners of walls and partitions;

From left to right: corner, guide, rack, ceiling and ceiling guide profiles.

  • Flexible profile for arches and vaults.

Auxiliary accessories

For fastening the ceiling profile to the capital structures, direct suspensions are used. The ears of the U-shaped suspension are perforated and attached to the side walls of the CD.

Direct suspension. The price of the product is 4 rubles, the estimated load is 40 kilograms, the packaging is 100 pieces in a bag.

To connect the frame elements to each other, self-tapping screws for metal 9 mm long are used.

Phosphated self-tapping screw for joining sheet metal products.

When mounting the hangers of the guide profiles to the main walls and ceilings, dowel-screws 6x60 or 8x80 mm in size are used. The size of the fastener depends, first of all, on the material of the capital structures: longer dowel-screws are useful for a thick layer of loose plaster.

Dowel-screw for fastening rails and hangers to the main walls.

Instruments

What tool will be required to assemble a frame from a drywall profile?

  • Metal shears are needed for cutting galvanizing;

Sometimes it is cut with a grinder with a circle for metal, but this is not entirely correct. Heating during abrasive cutting leads to burnout of the zinc coating, and the edge of the profile in a humid environment begins to rust.

  • Level and plumb. They are needed to orient the frame elements in strictly horizontal and vertical positions;
  • Square, tape measure, long ruler and marking pencil;
  • Perforator with a drill for drilling holes for dowel screws;
  • Screwdriver. Screwing with your own hands, with a screwdriver, several hundred self-tapping screws for metal is absolutely unrealistic.

A screwdriver is the main tool for working with drywall and galvanized profiles.

Mounting

What are the most common scenarios a novice builder encounters when working with drywall?

  • With wall cladding(aligning their surface along the frame);
  • With installation of internal partitions(deaf, with door or window openings, with shelves and niches);
  • with assembly suspended ceilings(horizontal, inclined and multi-level);

In the photo - a sloping plasterboard ceiling in my attic.

  • With boxes for risers, combs (horizontal intra-apartment sewerage), air ducts, etc.

Let's see how to make a wireframe in each of these cases.

wall cladding

  1. We mark the position of the border of the frame. In general, the closer the guide profile to the main wall, the better: this way the cost of the usable area of ​​​​the room will be minimal. An exception is cases when the space between the main wall and the cladding is used for laying large-diameter communications (sewerage, air ducts) or for creating niches.
    Marking is first done on the floor, then transferred to the ceiling with a plumb line, after which the lines on the walls are drawn between the marks on the horizontal surfaces along a long ruler or a profile pressed against the wall;

The markings on the floor are transferred to the ceiling using a plumb line.

  1. We fasten the guide ceiling profile UD around the entire perimeter of the wall with dowel-screws in increments of 50-60 cm;

Captain Evidence suggests: if there is a doorway in the wall, a gap is left in the guide in its lower part for the entire width of the opening.

  1. The position of the ceiling profiles is marked on the main wall. They are usually mounted vertically. The step between the longitudinal axes of adjacent CDs should be exactly 60 centimeters: then the seams between adjacent sheets of plasterboard (I remind you that the standard width of a drywall sheet is 120 centimeters) will fall in the middle of the profile;

Along the edges of the doorway, a pair of additional CDs are installed, connected at the top with a jumper from the same profile. They will allow you to sheathe the slopes.

  1. Along each line with a step of 80 cm, direct suspensions are fastened with dowel-screws;

Installation of a direct suspension on a brick wall.

  1. Then the ceiling profiles are cut to length and inserted into the guides along the marking lines;
  2. The ears of the suspensions are attracted to the profile aligned with the edge of the ruler or according to the rule with self-tapping screws 9 mm long. The free parts of the ears are bent towards the wall.
  3. Each CD is attached to the UD at the top and bottom by a pair of metal screws. This completes the assembly of the frame, you can proceed to its sheathing with drywall.

Ready crate.

If the height of the wall exceeds the length of the plasterboard, at the junction of the whole sheet with the additional one, it is worth providing a horizontal jumper from the same CD. When the edges of adjacent sheets are attached to a common profile for them, the likelihood of cracks along the seam is minimal. However, in the upper part of the wall, where the sheathing does not experience deforming loads, with high-quality reinforcement of the seams, jumpers can be dispensed with.

One of the ways to attach a horizontal jumper.

Partition

When assembling a partition, the device of a frame made of a metal profile for drywall differs markedly from that described above: UW guide profiles and CW rack profiles are used.

Silent partition frame.

Here is a step by step guide for mounting the frame:

  1. Along the perimeter of the partition, guides are attached to the capital structures. For fastening, dowel-screws with a hose of the same 50 - 60 centimeters are used. If a doorway is provided in the partition, a gap in its entire width is also left in the lower guide in this case;
  2. With a step of exactly 60 centimeters, racks cut to the desired length from the CW profile are inserted into the lower and upper rails. It is better to take height measurements for each rack separately: differences in the distance between floor slabs can be calculated in centimeters;

When marking the position of the racks, make risks not on the profile, but on the surfaces of the floor and ceiling with a slight distance from the guide. These marks will help you find the studs when plasterboarding the frame.

  1. Each rack is attached to the rails with metal screws.

Fastening the rack to the bottom rail.

Doors, windows

Installation in the door partition deserves a separate description.

A metal-plastic door with a mirrored double-glazed window in a plasterboard partition.

It is performed at the frame assembly stage in the following order:

  1. The door leaf is hung on hinges and wedged in a box with cardboard folded in several layers, scraps of hardboard, plywood or wood chips. This is necessary so that the door does not overwrite the jambs after installation;
  2. One of the racks adjacent to the doorway is installed in a strictly vertical position and is attached to the rails;
  3. A strip of mounting foam or sealant is applied to it, after which the rack is attracted to the door frame with self-tapping screws 16–25 mm long in increments of no more than 50 cm;
  4. On the opposite side, the second rack is attached in a similar way;
  5. Both posts are connected by a horizontal jumper from the same CW profile. The method of attachment to the horizontal crossbar of the door frame is the same.

Profile binding of a door frame and an opening without a door.

The light window (for example, in the wall of the bathroom) is attached in the same way. There are only two differences:

  • The gap in the lower rail is not needed for obvious reasons;
  • There are two horizontal jumpers between the posts - above and below the window opening.

Light window in the plasterboard wall of the bathroom.

arches

The frame of the arch is bent from a special flexible profile, as well as from a guide or rack notched in increments of 10-15 cm. The arch becomes rigid in the process of sheathing the GKL; additional reinforcing jumpers between the elements of its frame are possible, but not required.

The simplest frame made of a flexible profile.

Here, for the formation of a bend, a rack-mounted CW notched with a minimum step is used.

Gain

In rooms with significant loads on the walls (in an apartment, this is primarily a hallway and a kitchen), they need a reinforced frame. Rigidity in relation to horizontal loads is achieved, first of all, by increasing the width of the rack and guide profile from 50 to 75 or 100 millimeters. If this is undesirable due to the small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe premises, you can make the frame as strong as possible in other ways:

  • By reducing the step between the racks from 60 to 40 centimeters;
  • By connecting rack profiles in pairs;
  • By investing in racks wooden mortgages- bars with a section of 50x50 mm.

Ways to strengthen the partition frame.

In addition: with significant expected loads on the walls, they are sheathed with drywall in two layers. Sheets of the first and second layers are attached with obligatory overlapping of horizontal and vertical seams. The first layer is fastened with self-tapping screws 25 mm long at the rate of 20 - 30 pieces per sheet, the second - with self-tapping screws 45 mm long at the rate of 50 - 70 pieces per sheet.

The location of the sheets when sheathing the partition with drywall in two layers.

Noise isolation

A hollow partition made of GKL has an unpleasant feature: it acts as a resonator, amplifying sound vibrations. Wall soundproofing requires an integrated approach:

  • Fits under the guide profile damper tape, which will exclude the transmission of low-frequency vibrations to capital structures. Instead, polyethylene foam cut into strips of the appropriate width can be used;
  • The frame is filled with mineral wool. It is better to use glued slabs with a size of 1000x600 mm: they will fit between the posts without cutting in width, and will not cake, leaving voids in the filling of the wall;

Sound insulation of the wall made of plasterboard with mineral wool.

  • Finally, the most effective solution is to acoustically decouple the surfaces of the partition by creating two independent frames for them. In this case, two guide profiles are mounted along the perimeter of the partition at a minimum distance from each other; racks are installed in them in a checkerboard pattern so that each rack is in contact with only one side of the skin.

Captain Evidence suggests: in this case, the thickness of the partition will increase to at least 100 millimeters.

Shelves, niches

To place niches or shelves in the partition, we will also have to build two independent frames. The shelves are based on horizontal lintels between the uprights from the CW profile. With a partition thickness of more than 15-20 centimeters, the shelves are reinforced with additional jumpers between the two frames.

Assembling the partition frame with niches. Used rack CW and rail UW.

Suspended ceiling

How to make a frame from a drywall profile when installing a false ceiling?

The general principles for assembling the frame of a single-level ceiling are the same as for plasterboard wall cladding: ceiling and ceiling guide profiles are used; CDs are attached to the ceiling or beams with direct suspensions.

Lathing of a single-level plasterboard ceiling in the bathroom.

There are, however, differences:

  • It is better to reduce the step between the suspensions to 60 cm, which will eliminate the possibility of sagging of the ceiling;
  • It is desirable to align ceiling profiles not with a ruler or edge of another profile, but with several guide threads stretched across them between them. First, the CDs are pressed against the ceiling with the bent ears of the hangers, then they are released one by one, aligned in a horizontal plane along the thread and finally attached to the hanger.

If the ceiling is multi-level, the drop can be created in several ways:

  • Combining straight hangers and elongated hangers with knitting needles;

Adjustable hangers with spokes.

  • Using rack and guide profiles. CW is used as uprights and UW connects them and secures them to the floor;

Lathing for a two-level ceiling made of plasterboard.

  • Finally, with a low room height, the higher part of the ceiling is made plaster or leveled with drywall, fixed to the ceiling surface with gypsum glue and (temporarily) with dowel screws.

Combination of plaster and plasterboard ceilings.

The last case is worth considering separately. GKL is attached in the following order:

  1. The surface of the draft ceiling is cleaned of low-adhesive coatings (peeling plaster, whitewash, paint, etc.);

Hint: Stucco and whitewash can be removed with a hard steel trowel without raising dust if it is pre-soaked with water. To do this, the ceiling is wetted from the sprayer two or three times with an interval of 10-15 minutes.

  1. Then the surface is dedusted with a brush or vacuum cleaner;
  2. The cleaned ceiling is primed with a penetrating acrylic primer (primer). The primer will prevent the surface from crumbling and will stick the remaining dust to the base. It is advisable to add an antiseptic to it, since the GKL will limit the ventilation of the floor;
  3. A sheet of drywall is pressed against the ceiling by assistants, after which holes for dowel screws are drilled right through it in the ceiling. Step between attachment points - no more than half a meter;
  4. Plaster glue cakes are superimposed on the sheet with a step of no more than 15 cm. Along the edge of the sheet with a slight indent from it, it is worth forming an intermittent roller of glue. The gaps will allow air to escape from the space between the plasterboard and the draft ceiling;

Scheme of applying gypsum glue.

  1. GCR is pressed against the ceiling and fixed with dowel screws;
  2. Then the sheet is leveled in a horizontal plane. You can raise or lower a section of the sheet by screwing or unscrewing the dowel screws;
  3. When the glue sets (it takes up to 6 hours), the fasteners are removed, and the holes from it are puttied with plaster or acrylic putty.

box

The drywall profile box is easiest to assemble from the rack and guide profiles. The guide is used to fasten the frame to the floor, ceiling and main walls, the rack - for the manufacture of vertical frame elements and jumpers between them. Jumpers, by the way, are not required: the frame will acquire maximum rigidity after sheathing with wall plasterboard.

Different profile types can be combined. In the picture the uprights are made of CW and UW and the lintels are made of ceiling CD.

An important point: in most cases hiding communications in a non-separable box is a very bad idea. So, risers and water supply lines, as well as sewers, can be made hidden only if the following conditions are met:

  1. There are no revisions or tees for cleaning on the sewer riser;

Revision for clearing blockages on a cast-iron sewer riser.

  1. The sewer riser is assembled from plastic pipes, each of which is fixed at the socket with a clamp, excluding its subsidence;
  2. Water supply risers are made of polypropylene, copper or corrugated stainless pipe with maintenance-free connections (soldered or, in the case of stainless steel, compression with silicone seals).

It is absolutely impossible to hide steel pipes in a non-separable box for two reasons:

  • They have a limited lifespan. Leaking pipes in the box will force you to dismantle it to repair or replace the riser section;
  • Lack of ventilation in the box will lead to condensation on the cold water pipes in the summer. Dampness will shorten the already short service life of the steel riser.

In addition: risers are common property of the residents of the house, and access to them may be required at any time. For example, when neighbors have leaks from below or above, or when a sewer riser is clogged.

A wardrobe with high doors is a great alternative to a box.

Conclusion

I hope that this material will help the dear reader when repairing his own house or apartment. As usual, you can learn more by watching the video in this article. I would appreciate your additions and comments. Good luck, comrades!

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

The work of creating a frame from a metal profile for drywall is perceived by many as a very simple event that does not require certain rules to be followed. Because of this, situations are obtained in which the surface created from the GKL plates turns out to be with numerous shortcomings, to eliminate which a lot of effort and financial costs have to be applied.

Of course, the work itself is not that difficult. Literally everyone can cope, but there are some nuances that must be taken into account. And also correctly carry out the installation steps.

Advantages of a metal profile

There are two main materials for the construction of the crate - a wooden beam and a metal profile. It is the second type of material that is most preferred.

The metal profile is such due to certain characteristics:

  • For the most part (with proper storage and transportation) - it does not have any drawbacks (curvature). But, if you choose a bar, you will have to sort out a lot of material.
  • Metal elements can be used in almost any room, and do not pay attention to temperature fluctuations. This means that the surface will not be deformed.
  • Galvanized parts can last a very long time. Therefore, they can be used even in rooms with a lot of moisture. Also, they are not affected by fungi and rot.
  • For fastening the profile, there are various elements that allow you to create a reliable and strong structure.

Material selection

It is worth paying attention to the choice of the necessary materials, especially when choosing the details of the crate. There are the following types of profile that allow you to create a frame for plasterboard walls:

  1. Guide (PN). This element is designed to create a structure that will serve to secure the rack profile. It is from the fixing of this type of profile that it will depend on how the surface will look in the future.
  2. Rack (PS). It is used to create crates or other partitions. It can be given various curvilinear options.

A separate place is occupied by details for ceiling structures: ceiling profile (PP), ceiling guide profile (PNP).

You should also consider using the following additional elements:

  • Corner profile (PU). Maybe - external and internal.
  • Arched profile (PA). Used to create arches.
  • Suspension (U-shaped). It is used for fastening the structure to walls and ceilings.
  • Connector ("Crab"). It is very convenient for fastening together perpendicular parts.
  • Extension. Connects different segments of the profile.
  • Dowel and self-tapping screws (for metal).

It is at this stage that many people make a very important mistake. It lies in the fact that they acquire a non-specialized profile. Namely, they confuse ceiling elements with wall elements.

Required tool

Naturally, fastening a metal frame under drywall is simply impossible without the use of special tools. But do not worry, every home master will always have everything you need.

Tools and materials needed for installing drywall on the frame

What will be required:

  1. Jigsaw with metal files or scissors for cutting galvanized steel.

    Attention! It is immediately worth noting that you can not use the grinder. The reason is pretty simple. The torque of such a tool is very high, and the galvanized profile is quite thin. Because of this, there is a rapid heating of the cut material and its deformation. And also the destruction of the protective layer and the appearance of rust will follow.

  2. Plumb and level (or more modern electronic devices). Only the use of these devices allows you to create an even frame from a metal profile.
  3. Ruler, tape measure and pencil (marker).
  4. Drills or puncher to create holes in the walls. Their choice depends on the surface material. And also do not forget about drills or drills.
  5. A set of screwdrivers, or better a screwdriver. With the necessary skills, you can also use a drill (setting the desired power).

Installation work

Everything that needs to be prepared, the tool is waiting in the wings. It seems that work can already begin. After all, the sooner you start, the sooner it will end, but you should not rush. First you need to decide what activities will be carried out. The installation of the frame has features for different types of work.

The installation of a frame for creating partitions from plasterboard has significant differences from the installation of a crate for plasterboard walls

Walls

In principle, working with walls is considered the easiest. It is with her that it is best to start, if this does not contradict the stages of repair work.

Advice! To avoid unpleasant (rattling) noise that may occur after the installation of a metal crate, a sealing tape is glued between the surface and the guides.

Getting Started:

  • Creating a frame begins with markup. It is best if the profile is as close as possible to the surface to be attached. But this rule does not apply when it is planned to carry out additional insulation or lay communications. The markup starts from the floor and transfers the data to the ceiling. Now you can make marks on the side walls and directly on the main surface. It is taken into account that the pitch of the rack profile is 50-55 (up to 60) cm.

    Creating markings and installing guide profiles

  • Drilling is done for the fasteners. You can immediately install U-shaped brackets.
  • The time has come to fix all parts of the structure. First, they put the PN - a closed structure is obtained, into which the joint venture is inserted. With the help of self-tapping screws for metal - screw them together (bottom and top). Rack elements are attached to suspensions.

    Installation and fastening of rack profiles

Suspensions have a feature to go beyond the profile. That is, protruding "ears" are formed. They need to be bent. This should be done inward so as not to interfere with the installation of GCR boards.

If it is required to give the frame for drywall additional rigidity, then horizontal screeds are used for this. They are easy to make from the profile itself, which is cut into the desired size (with a small margin). Pay attention to their fastening.

Creating Horizontal Jumpers

They often do this:

  1. Scissors for metal cut the ends of the profile along the ribs.
  2. The ribs are bent. Through them, the screeds are screwed to the racks. The central section - remains without a self-tapping screw, otherwise a hillock will turn out.

Partitions

These structures are created to separate the premises, as well as to completely separate one from the other. In principle, the scheme of work is similar to the one presented above, but there are some technical features.

  1. First of all, it should be understood that the partition requires sufficient rigidity. This is especially taken into account when the structure is not supported by two main walls.
  2. Work begins with fixing the guides. For this, a dowel with a screw is used, taking into account the step - 45-50 cm. Mounting the guide profile

    On a note! It is necessary to pay attention to the design of partitions in which doorways are provided. Naturally, the lower rail is cut off and additional vertical racks are installed.

  3. Now install vertical racks. Between themselves they are fastened with horizontal screeds. The racks are fastened with the front side to one of the walls. That is, it turns out that both sides of the partition have a rib for attaching the GKL. Therefore, if serious insulation or wiring of communications is planned, then a profile of the required size is chosen.

    Installation of vertical racks

  4. All structural elements are securely twisted with metal screws.
  5. In the side elements (ends) - insert a wooden beam of a suitable size. This is necessary for reliability.

    Ready-made design of an interior partition

Features of creating door and window openings

A frame made of a metal profile for drywall often needs to create various openings in it. Doors are handled as follows:

  • The door frame is being assembled. In which, previously, the door leaf is hung. To set the necessary gaps (after all, the box is not fixed) - insert wedges from fiberboard or hardboard.
  • Now they begin to expose racks that are adjacent to the doorway. They are placed vertically and reinforced with wooden beams. Mounting foam is applied and the box is attracted with self-tapping screws.

Scheme for creating a doorway in a plasterboard partition

On a note! The described method is quite laborious, it is more suitable for cases where the doorway was not provided in advance. Therefore, it is better to spend time on preliminary calculations and markings, as well as determine the size of the door leaf. Then you can immediately create a doorway (with the necessary margin) and quickly install a door into it.

When creating a light window, there are such features:

  1. It is necessary to install two horizontal jumpers (top and bottom).
  2. Vertical racks are best done with wooden mortgages.

Measures to strengthen the frame and increase sound insulation

It should be noted that a simple crate does not have sufficient rigidity. Therefore, if necessary, then you need to give it reinforcement. This is usually necessary in rooms where furniture will be placed on the walls.

The easiest ways:

  • Instead of SP and NP, 50 mm each, they take 75 or 100 mm.
  • Reduce the step between the racks.
  • Vertical elements are installed in pairs.
  • Mortgages in the form of a wooden bar are used.

Strengthening the metal frame with horizontal screeds from timber

On a note! If possible, then a completely different option is used. Namely - drywall on the frame is laid in two layers. In this case, overlap the seams of the first layer.

Also pay attention to soundproofing. The fact is that the hollow frame gives a significant sound effect.

  1. Mineral wool is laid in the frame. Therefore, they are immediately determined with a step of vertical racks and jumpers.
  2. When creating partitions, a double-sided frame is made. Then each GKL slab is attached to its side of the crate.

double sided frame

Any work requires care, even if it seems that making a frame for drywall is very simple.

The widespread use of drywall as a finishing material is due not only to its outstanding technical characteristics, but also to a wide range of work performed. With the help of drywall, you can not only level walls and ceilings, but also transform the room by creating a variety of partitions, niches or arches. The key to a successful job is a high-quality and properly mounted frame for drywall. It is easy to install even with your own hands.

Materials used for mounting the frame

A person who decides for the first time to build a frame from a drywall profile with his own hands may well be confused by the different designation of profiles that can be found in different sources, as well as a large assortment of fasteners offered by the building materials market. You should not be afraid here: it is not so difficult to figure out the purpose of metal profiles, and from the whole variety of fasteners, only a small part is required for installation.

Types of metal profiles:

  • Guides. In the marking they have the designation UD or PN. They lay the foundation for the entire structure, it is with them that the construction of the frame begins.
  • Rack-mounted. They are denoted by combinations of CW or PS. They are inserted into the guides and form vertical racks to which drywall sheets are attached when leveling the walls.
  • Ceiling. A drywall sheet is attached to such metal profiles, which have the abbreviation CD or PP, when leveling the ceiling. They are inserted into special ceiling guides, which have combinations of the letters UD or PNP in the designation.
  • There are also arched and corner models of profiles. The need for their use is determined by the nature of the structure being built.

To fix the frame on the wall or ceiling, as well as to fasten its elements together, several types of fasteners are used.

  1. To lengthen the metal profile to the desired size, a simple connector is used, and to reinforce the intersections of the profiles, its cruciform variety, called the "crab", is useful. When leveling the ceiling, a two-level “crab” is used to securely fix the lower level profile to the ceiling.
  2. Additional fastening to the ceiling or wall is provided by direct or anchor hangers. With their help, all structural elements are displayed in one common plane.
  3. The suspensions and guide profiles are fastened using dowels with a diameter of 6 mm, the profiles are fastened together with self-tapping screws. Installation of drywall on the installed frame is carried out using self-tapping screws with a diameter of 3.5 and a length of 25 mm. It is preferable to use galvanized steel hardware.

Ceiling frame assembly

If you plan to level the walls and ceiling of the room with drywall, then you should start with the latter. It is rare that a room boasts perfectly right angles. In this case, after leveling the walls, the sheets on the ceiling will have to be quite laboriously adjusted to the desired geometric parameters. If you start from the ceiling, then all the gaps between the drywall sheets and the wall will later close when the walls are leveled.

Markup nuances

Marking is one of the most important stages in the construction of the frame structure. To choose the right distance between it and the ceiling, you should first determine the height of the fixtures built into the ceiling. This distance is laid off from the lowest point of the ceiling, and then, using the level, the installation sites of the ceiling guide profiles are marked along the entire perimeter of the room.

Ceiling profiles are marked at a distance of 600 mm from each other. Thus, having done the markup with our own hands, we will end up with a grid of squares with a side of 60 cm on the ceiling.

Before mounting the frame with your own hands, you should finish working with communications, which will subsequently be located behind the drywall. It will be correct to stretch all the wires in advance, install sockets and other elements. It is better to leave the wiring under the lamps with a margin of 10-15 cm, so it will be much more convenient to connect them.

Installation progress

  • Using the applied markings, a ceiling guide profile is mounted to the walls around the entire perimeter of the room.
  • A dowel hole is drilled in the middle of the side of each marked square and a direct suspension is installed. Thus, we will get a step of additional fastenings of the metal profile to the ceiling with a size of 600 mm.

In the process of marking the frame for both the ceiling and the walls, it is necessary to take into account the prerequisite: all joints of drywall sheets must be located on the profile.

  • We insert ceiling profiles into the PNP profiles and fix them at the junction with self-tapping screws.

Since the geometry of rooms in apartments often leaves much to be desired, it is better to measure the length of each element separately, reducing the distance between the walls by 2–3 cm.

  • Having cut transverse jumpers 60 cm long with a grinder or scissors for metal, we also fasten them with self-tapping screws. The places of the cross-shaped connection of metal profiles are reinforced with the help of a “crab”.
  • The resulting frame with the help of suspensions is displayed in a single plane. To do this, a level is applied to each profile, and after the necessary adjustment, the position of the ceiling profile is fixed with the help of suspensions. Their antennae are bent with pliers and fastened with screws to the profile at the required distance from the ceiling.

Assembling the frame for drywall on the wall

How to make a frame for drywall when leveling a wall? The general principles remain unchanged, only some nuances change.

  • Having determined the distance between the wall and the structure being erected, having completed all communications, a line is drawn on the ceiling along which the guide profile will be attached. Using a plumb line, an identical line is also reproduced on the floor.
  • Having fixed the guide profiles, they proceed to the marking of the horizontal racks. They should be spaced in 600 mm increments so that each sheet of drywall is fixed on three posts. One will be located in the middle of the sheet, and on the two extreme there will be a joint with other sheets.
  • After marking and installing direct suspensions along it, horizontal racks are inserted into the guides and fixed with self-tapping screws.
  • Horizontal cross members are mounted in the same way. After their fastening, the entire structure is aligned in one plane, for which the level and direct suspensions are again used. A “crab” connector is applied to the places of crossing of metal profiles.

Installation is much more complicated if there are windows on the wall to be leveled. In this case, first of all, horizontal racks are attached on both sides of the window, and further marking of the profiles with a step of 60 cm is carried out from them.

When erecting partitions, special attention should be paid to the doorway. It must be strengthened by inserting a wooden beam into the profiles that form the perimeter of the door frame.

Tip: since the partition frame will not be attached to the wall, its cells should be smaller than on the wall or ceiling. It is recommended to form them from squares with a side of 40 cm. This will achieve the necessary rigidity of the partition.

The greatest difficulties can arise when building frames for niches with your own hands. In this case, it will be necessary to combine the elements of the wall and ceiling mounting profiles. In addition, it is necessary to have good spatial thinking. But the device and the general principles of fastening and fixing metal profiles remain unchanged.

How to make a bar counter with your own hands in a drywall kitchen? From drywall to make recesses for the TV and shelves on the walls

Sheathing walls and ceilings is not only a budget, but also an extremely convenient option. That is why many masters prefer this material. And in order for such a sheathing to be perfectly even, a trick is used - a frame made of metal profiles. With this approach, the technology for performing work changes and becomes somewhat more complicated, but the appearance of the room becomes solid and correct.

To begin with, it is worth understanding what a metal frame is and why it is needed for drywall. This is the supporting structure to which the sheathing material will be attached.

Metal profiles have quite a few advantages:

  • Strength;
  • Design reliability;
  • Ability to withstand heavy weight;
  • Capable of long-term operation.

The important point is that the wall sheathed with drywall (gypsum plasterboard) with a metal frame becomes absolutely even, even if the differences were significant.

In addition, such a sheathing device helps to make doorways unusual. For example, in the form of an arch.

How to avoid mistakes when building a metal frame for gypsum boards

During the installation of the frame and sheathing, various unforeseen situations may arise.

Here is a list of the most common mistakes:

  • Drywall sheet fasteners on the wrong side;
  • Incorrect fastening of sheets;
  • Incorrect choice of the profile itself;
  • Incorrect installation of the frame base;
  • The absence of suspensions, leading to a violation of the frame;
  • Incorrect cutting;
  • Alignment of bent parts of the profile.

Fixing the sheet on the wrong side can affect not only further painting finishes, for example, staining. For example, moisture-resistant drywall that is not installed properly will deteriorate much faster.

But the incorrect distribution of sheets during installation will lead to cracks at the joints, as well as to deformation of the profile due to incorrect distribution of loads. Another huge mistake is the use of ceiling profiles for wall cladding. It is possible, but there is no need to talk about strength.

Failure to comply with the metal profile installation technology is one of the reasons for damaged structures. A poorly or incorrectly fixed profile will surely fall off. It is especially scary if this happens to the ceiling.

In the absence of such an important detail as, cracks will inevitably form. In addition, then the installation scheme will be violated, which also affects the strength.

Unbending a profile is an extremely thankless task. Rigidity decreases, the profile is deformed. This reduces strength to zero. Therefore, it is very important to follow the installation technology so that the structure lasts a long time.

The device of a metal frame for drywall

It is worth noting that if it is planned to cover both the ceiling and walls, then installation must begin from the ceiling. Then it will be difficult, especially when repairing with your own hands. At points of additional loads (chandelier, shelf, large picture), experts recommend reinforcing the frame with additional profiles and fasteners.

Then you need to decide what kind of metal profile you need to build the frame:

  • PU (corner profile for strengthening corners);
  • PP (ceiling profile, to which the plasterboard is attached to the ceiling);
  • PNP (ceiling guide profile, which will be attached to the wall);
  • PS (rack profile, that is, vertical, used for wall cladding);
  • PN (guide profile for walls, which must be fixed to the ceiling and floor).

Sometimes a long profile is required. Therefore, a coupling is used to connect two metal parts, that is, a connector for PP. And to settle the intersection of profiles, crabs are used: they reinforce the frame, connecting metal parts. Direct suspensions are attached to the walls or ceiling, and then bent along the lines that are on the product. A metal profile is inserted into the resulting connector. And the suspensions themselves are mounted using hardware.

Wall cladding with plasterboard on a metal frame

For sheathing the wall with drywall sheets with the installation of a metal frame, materials and tools will be required. Look for an overview of the necessary accessories in the article:.

Here is a short list:

  • GKL directly;
  • profiles;
  • Direct suspensions;
  • Dowels and screws;
  • Drill or perforator;
  • Screwdriver or screwdriver;
  • Adhesive paper tape;
  • Roulette and pencil;
  • Construction level.

The first step is to make markings for suspensions, which should be located at a distance of 80 cm from each other. It is necessary to choose the most protruding part of the wall, and from it already carry out calculations. The profile on the walls should be located in meter increments. Profiles are fastened with crabs, self-tapping screws and screws. In the resulting box, you can hide the insulation, wires and communications.

Drywall must be cut to size. Then it is fixed with self-tapping screws. Seams should be sealed with paper tape. You can use tape in the form of a grid, but the masters recommend the use of paper self-adhesive tape.

Then a thin layer of putty is applied to the joints, and it can also be used to hide some recesses if the sheet is slightly deformed during installation. The seams are processed with sandpaper, and then the walls can be further finished. Sealing and processing of seams should be carried out at a temperature not lower than ten degrees above zero. During installation, it is necessary that the humidity is normal, and there are no drafts at all.

The metal frame is able to withstand almost any finishing material, even decoration with bas-reliefs. True, it is better to use polyurethane products. Details and nuances of creating a frame for GKL in the material:.

We make a frame from a metal profile for drywall (video)

Sheathing walls with drywall on a metal frame is not too difficult. In addition, almost everyone can afford all the materials, and they are freely available in all hardware stores. The end result can exceed all the wildest expectations - the main thing is to follow the installation technology, because this is the guarantee of a quality job.

The use of drywall is one of the most effective ways to level rough surfaces and build non-load-bearing partitions. Easy-to-install material levels any type of surface and helps to create structures of any complexity. But to work with drywall, you need knowledge on making a frame from a profile and lining it with plasterboard.

The complex of works with drywall involves two stages - the manufacture of the frame of the future structure, fastening and its sheathing.

A metal profile frame is preferable to a wooden one, as it is strong and durable, does not corrode and is easy to install. You can assemble the frame with your own hands or purchase a ready-made kit in disassembled form. It is easy, fast and convenient to assemble a metal profile. Its flexibility and strength make it possible to create the most bizarre forms of arches, ceilings, niches. Manufacturers of galvanized profiles have developed different types and sizes for various cladding options. Distinguish between a guide and a connecting profile. The first edge is even, allowing you to insert one fragment into another, the connecting edge is bent for complete rigidity of the assembly.

The algorithm for assembling a high-quality metal frame for installing drywall provides for a certain sequence:

  • For maximum compliance the future frame is first measured from the base surface of the walls or ceiling. If you plan to complete the sheathing of the room, the frame device starts from the ceiling, since the non-ideal geometry of the corners will make it difficult to install the ceiling after wall cladding.
  • The marking of the ceiling under the frame starts from the most elevated place (or depression). If there are windows, the marking of the walls begins with window openings.
  • At this stage, it is already possible to calculate the number of GCR and profile. To make a frame with your own hands, you need to purchase 2 types of profile - rack and rail. The latter type creates the basis of the structure, where the rack metal profile is inserted. Docking points are fixed with hardware.
  • To make the frame rigid, the rack profile is fixed at a certain distance, in increments of 60 cm.

  • When finishing the walls, first completely prepare one wall(framework, fastening, sheathing) and only after that they move on to the next surface. When marking walls, their curvature is also taken into account.
  • The frame should be 10 cm from the base surface if sound and heat insulation is laid between the plasterboard and the draft wall. Engineering communications are also located in this gap.
  • To assemble a high-quality frame from a profile, use small self-tapping screws with a drill (bugs). The presence of a screw makes it possible to make holes in the metal profile. This type of connection can creak when the room shrinks, so the joints are secured with sealant.
  • Professionals cut the profile with a grinder, but its thickness allows you to get by with scissors for metal.
  • A metal frame made of a profile for drywall is convenient when creating not only rectilinear structures. To create an arch or a figured two-tiered ceiling, a profile of a certain length is prepared and the side ribs are cut in increments of 5 cm. Now you can bend it without the risk of damage and fix it to the base with self-tapping screws.

You can see the entire process of manufacturing and installation of a frame from a metal profile on a video clip.

Frame from a metal profile for drywall (video)

Facing

The metal profile frame fixed on the base surface is sheathed with plasterboard sheets, this work requires some preparation.

Firstly, before cladding, all communications must be correctly positioned inside the frame. For safety reasons, the electrical cable is insulated and fixed without contact with metal parts. It is especially necessary to control the installation of spotlights in this regard. The wire length margin should be within 10-15 cm from the GKL. Other communications that require constant access for control, it is better not to sew up the GKL at all, because it is difficult to disassemble a new wall to repair them.

In any case, before sheathing, it is necessary to check the operation of all systems that are supposed to be hidden.

If you have decided on the quantity, you must select the type of drywall that corresponds to the purpose of the room where the repair is being carried out. There are ordinary wall, fire-resistant, moisture-resistant and combined materials. The first is used in rooms with normal temperature and humidity.

Moreover, for the ceiling, an ordinary gray sheet of drywall will be thinner - 9.5 mm, while for slopes, niches, walls - 12.5 mm, for arches and other patterns - 6.5 mm.

The second type, pink, is necessary in rooms with a high fire hazard. The third option, green shades, is used in the kitchen, in the bathroom - rooms where the temperature and humidity are higher. There are also combined types that combine all the protective characteristics.

The cladding sequence is simple:

  • GKL lean against a fixed profile, placing sheets vertically or horizontally in accordance with the position of the frame. Then they are fixed with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws for metal.
  • The seams and joints between the plates are glued with a sickle(construction mesh) and putty.
  • The clean side is treated with impregnation and finishing is carried out(wallpapering, painting, tiling).

They fix drywall sheets in 25 mm increments, this will create a solid structure and seal the finishing layer. You should not screw in the screws more often - you can damage the panel. The self-tapping screws are screwed in so that the cap sinks slightly, without tearing the edges of the drywall onto the fringe. Such a mount is easily masked with putty.

Puttying is an obligatory stage of facing, regardless of the type of finishing material. For wallpapering, you can limit yourself to puttying joints and screw attachment points so that red spots do not appear on the surface of the paper. When painting, a full putty of GKL is required.

Surface preparation

Drywall needs a decorative finish, as it does not have such qualities. The easiest way is to paint with water-based paint in any color suitable for the interior. It is necessary to putty the surface in two layers. The starting mixture is coarser, the finishing mixture is fine-grained. After drying each layer, the surface is cleaned with sanding paper or a grout. Such processing involves the presence of a large amount of harmful dust.

In addition to the fact that you need to work in glasses, closed clothes, with a hat, gloves and a respirator, the surface must be cleaned (with a broom or a construction vacuum cleaner) and coated with a special impregnation.

In addition to the final cleaning of the surface, this solution will improve the adhesion of putty layers.

Subtleties at work

All impregnating solutions should dry for 12 hours or more, then you can apply the next layer of putty, which also needs grinding and impregnation. Without experience, such work is performed in 3-4 approaches.

After complete drying of such processing, you can proceed to the decorative cladding. Sheets are also painted in several layers after the previous one has completely dried.

If they plan to hang a massive chandelier from the ceiling in the room, fix a picture or some kind of device on the wall, these nuances must be taken into account even at the stage of mounting the frame, reinforcing it in the marked places. In any case, after mounting the frame, it is worth sketching the location of the grid of profiles in order to use this scheme in the future when hanging shelves, planters, etc.

If you understand the principle of installation and, for starters, to assemble a simple partition from GKL, then with such a skill, with further repairs, you can aim at larger projects: a two-level ceiling, decorative niches, arched openings.

Installation of a frame for a two-level plasterboard ceiling (video)

GKL, as a finishing material, is widely used not only for interior, but also for exterior work. But the technology for installing a frame for drywall is somewhat different in different situations, and the configuration of the profiles used in a particular case is also different.

Below we will look at the types of metal frames and battens, and also watch a video on the installation of some of them.

What and how are drywall frames made of

To begin with, let's see in what places the frame for drywall can be installed. The three main places where such a structure is installed are walls (battens), ceilings and partitions.

Each of these designs can be simple (classic) or have an increased complexity, including niches, figures and arches, but this already applies more to the field of design, although, of course, it cannot do without the technical side of the issue.

Related articles:

What are drywall frames made of?

  • Mainly from CD profile a frame is made for plasterboard on the ceiling and on the walls (sheathing). The galvanized profile is 60 mm wide and 27 mm thick (edge ​​height), and its length is either 3 or 4 meters. The edge of the side is profiled (this can be seen in the photo above), which gives the CD additional rigidity.

  • The UD profile is identical in length to the CD profile, but its width is 27 mm (CD is inserted in thickness), the height of the side is also 27 mm. It is used for edging around the perimeter, and also, if you are interested in how to assemble the frame for a wave, then the bend is done using such a profile or UW. The profile edge is not profiled.

  • CW profiles are used mainly for partitions and have different widths - it can be 50 mm, 75 mm and 100 mm. The thickness (edge ​​height) is fixed at 50 mm for any width. The length can vary, for example the CW-50 from Knauf can be 2600mm, 2750mm, 3000mm and 4000mm.

  • UW profiles are designed to hold CW and are installed around the perimeter of the frame, which is most often used for partitions, and if you are interested in how to assemble a frame for drywall for an attic, then this is just what you need. The width UW, of course, corresponds to the width CW and comes in 50 mm, 75 mm and 100 mm, all other dimensions (thickness and length) are also identical to CW.

  • To assemble the frame with your own hands, when connecting the profiles to each other, use small self-tapping screws 11 mm long, which are designed for steel with a thickness up to 2 mm. Screws are screwed in using a screwdriver bit marked PH-2.
  • Also, third-party fittings are used for mounting frames, these are various types of suspensions, self-tapping screws and dowels, as well as mollies. When assembling structures, wooden blocks and boards can be used to tighten, as well as thick adhesive tape to dampen sound (for example, on UW or UD profile sole installed on a wooden floor, a strip is glued so that the frame does not ring).

Related articles:

Frame on the wall (sheathing)

  • Now let's figure out how to properly assemble a drywall frame to align the wall. First of all, you need to determine the most protruding point of this plane and, guided by it, beat off a line on the floor with a masking cord (chocline) - it will serve as a border for the inside of the UD profile. Now this line needs to be transferred to the ceiling - raise it along the walls with a level, and connect it on the ceiling with the same masking cord - you have a control marking for edging with a UD profile.
  • Now you need to screw the UD around the perimeter with dowels and self-tapping screws. If the rough surface is sufficiently dense (brick, cement-sand plaster), then impact dowels can be used, but if you have to fasten the guides to limestone, concrete floors or lime plaster, then use a dowel-dummy with a screw 1-2 mm thinner than the outer diameter dowel. Even if the instruction (sometimes found complete with profiles) says to use impact dowels, still use the second option.

  • Now we mark the wall vertically after 30 cm - these lines must coincide with the central axis of the profile, so that there are 4 carriers for each whole GKL. On these vertical marks, screw the U-shaped hangers 50-70 cm apart to mount the CD.

  • Now we just have to cut the CD profiles to the desired length and insert them into the upper and lower UDs, and the side (vertical) UDs will serve as load-bearing profiles. To make the plane even, apply a rule or a long level across, taking the vertical UD as a guide (fix the profiles to the hangers and between themselves with small smores).

Advice. The frame can be insulated by laying mineral wool or polystyrene between the profiles - the price of the structure will increase, but the wall will not only become warmer, but will not buzz if it is accidentally hit.

Partition frame

  • Now it will be clearer to you how to correctly assemble the frame for plasterboard sheathing under the partition, because the principle remains the same. First of all, beat off the perimeter with a masking cord in the place where the partition will be located, and screw the UW profile of the width you need along this line - in the same way as you screwed the UD for the crate.

  • Now you just have to cut the CW to the desired length and insert them into the UW, screwing them with self-tapping screws, as shown in the photo above. If you are interested in how to install a drywall frame in a corner, then you can use the same partitions.

  • If a door is planned in the partition, then make a perimeter for the doorway from UW, just put wooden blocks of a suitable width inside for rigidity. In the same way, you can strengthen the profiles for the hanger or wall cabinets, but still fixing thick boards between them.

The main type of drywall fastening is a frame structure that is attached to the surface being trimmed. In fact, this is the construction of a new frame-type wall. Since drywall has a certain mass, the requirements for the crate have always been strict. More recently, it was built from wooden bars (battens), but you are already in the past, because they were replaced by better materials - metal profiles.

Although it is necessary to pay tribute, slats are sometimes still used today, but extremely rarely. Why did this happen? Firstly, wood has the ability to change its size under the influence of changes in humidity and temperature. Over time, the bars dry out, crack, become covered with a wormhole and mold. In damp areas, they warp quickly.

Photo: frame for drywall metal profile

All this is absent from the metal profile, therefore it is this material that has now become the basis for the construction of the frame for drywall.

Types of profiles for a frame for drywall

Manufacturers offer several types of profiles, each of which has its own purpose.

Different forms of profiles for drywall


Add to profile products direct hangers, with which the ceiling and rack profiles are attached to the walls and ceiling, respectively. It is with their help that a suspended structure can be erected on the ceiling.

And one more element - crab. This is a special fastener that helps to connect four connected profiles at one point, forming a cross.

Photo: ordinary drywall screws

And the last one is self-tapping screws. There are several types, and each has its own purpose. If the base of the wall is wooden, then ordinary self-tapping screws 6x70 or 6x80 mm in size are used. If the surfaces are concrete, it is best to use metal dowels or self-tapping screws with plastic dowels.

To connect the profiles to each other, the so-called self-tapping bugs are used (other names are often found - fleas or seeds).

Mounting the frame for drywall

If in terms of repair work the task is to finish both the walls and the ceiling with drywall, then you need to start from the ceiling. The thing is that this surface rarely has even corners (90 °). And if you start leveling from the walls, then it will be very difficult to fit the plasterboard panels to the resulting ceiling dimensions. The end result will be a fairly large amount of waste.

Mounting the frame on the ceiling

First of all, you need to determine the lowest corner in the room. To do this, you will need a tape measure, which measures the distance from floor to ceiling in each corner. Compare the results, the smallest size is what you need. Please note that this method can be taken as a basis if the floor has already been leveled.

Plasterboard ceiling marking

So, in the selected corner near the ceiling, a laser level is installed. The installation location is determined by the height of the future suspended structure. The light rays of the device will show a contour located in a horizontal plane, it is along it that it is necessary to set the PNP profiles.

Now pay attention to one recommendation from a specialist. Usually rooms are rectangular in shape, the long side of which is perpendicular to the wall where the window is placed. It is in this direction that it is necessary to lay drywall sheets. If the room is square, then place the panels anyway towards the window.

So, now you need to install the PP profiles. To do this, parallel lines are applied. They are laid off from a long wall every 60 cm. Why this size? Drywall width - 120 cm, three profiles are installed under each sheet: one in the middle, two along the edges. But keep in mind the moment that two adjacent panels will be mounted on one profile. That is, the lines on the ceiling are the middle of the profile.

Frame for a single-level plasterboard ceiling

Along these lines, every 30-40 cm, direct suspensions must be installed. When this operation is completed, you can install the profiles themselves, which with their ends will rest against the PNP guides. There they are fastened with fleas.

Under their own weight, the profiles will sag, so several rows of strong thread must be pulled between the wall length guides, which will create a horizontal plane. According to it, it will be necessary to align the PP profiles and fix them to the suspensions. By the way, the antennae of the suspensions protruding beyond the profile simply bend upwards.

Frame for a two-level suspended ceiling

To stiffen the structure, it is necessary to install cross members cut from PP. Since the distance between the profiles is the same (60 cm), the size is known. The crossbars are installed along the room with a gap of 30 to 60 cm in 10 cm increments. This is where the crab is used. It is installed on top of the PP at the junction with the crossbars. This is a cruciform product with paws on the sides. PP is just good in them. For fastening, all the same fleas are used.

Complete instructions on how to make a plasterboard ceiling on your own,.

Mounting the frame on the wall

Installation of the frame begins with determining where the wall itself is tilted. If she "looks" with the upper edge into the room, then the installation of the guide (PN) must be started from the ceiling. From it, using a plumb line, the installation site of the floor profile is determined. If it “looks” outward, then the floor element is installed first. Then a plumb line determines the place on the ceiling.

Red dotted line - how not to divide sheets

Marking option if there is a narrow lane

If the height of the ceiling is greater than the length of the sheet, the sheets are fastened apart

So, two profiles are already installed (on the ceiling and on the floor). Now it's up to the rack profiles. First, two extreme elements are mounted, they are attached to the PN and to adjacent walls. Then every 60 cm. This is easy to do: mark on the ceiling guide and plumb down the points onto the floor element, now the two points can be connected to each other.

On the lines obtained, every 50-60 cm, it is necessary to install direct suspensions. PS will be attached to them, which will be installed at the ends in the guides. In order for all profiles to be in the same vertical plane, it is necessary to pull a strong thread between the two extreme elements in several rows (4-5). Now each profile is exposed on them and attached to the suspensions.

If it is decided to choose drywall with a high degree of strength for wall decoration, which could bear high loads (its thickness varies between 16-24 mm), then it is recommended to install three profiles under each sheet. This means that you will have to install, starting from the edge (from the wall), every 120 cm, two joined vertical rack profiles.

Fitting © 2022 Design and interior of apartments