Grout for floor tiles. concrete floor technology. Grouting concrete floor. Equipment for concrete floors. Start of wet cleaning

Tiles are perhaps one of the most common ways to decorate bathrooms and toilets, as well as special corners of kitchens. It is not difficult to indicate the reasons for the nationwide popularity: ceramic cladding perfectly protects the walls from the penetration of dirt and moisture, it is easy to clean and wash.

In addition, modern tiles can radically transform the look of the room. But competent finishing for masters of home comfort, relying on themselves and preferring to make repairs on their own, suggests the right approach.

It begins with thoughtful design, careful planning of the process, continues with the implementation of the stage of its competent professional implementation, and ends with grouting joints between tiles.

The last stage, it would seem, is not so important compared to the total amount of work. However, having laid the tiles and looking at the results of fruitful work, it becomes clear that without the final stage, it is impossible to achieve perfection.

Only this procedure gives the opportunity to give the cladding, impressive in its accuracy, a complete aesthetic appearance. It hides defects (when they exist), formed due to incorrect actions during installation.

In addition, if the space between the seams is protected from moisture penetrating into each slot, then layers of disgusting mold and colonies that are hazardous to health and pathogenic will not grow on the walls, ceiling and floor.

But since grouting is necessary, the question arises: which one is better to use, and how to do it using a technology that guarantees a neat, beautiful, high-quality appearance of the room after repair?

In the photo, the seams between ceramic tiles without grout

The choice of material is not an easy and responsible matter, depending not only on whims and one's own desire, but on necessity, based on many indicators. First of all, it is important to evaluate the size of the gaps left during the finishing work when laying the tiles.

The space between the modules must necessarily exist so that the integrity of the cladding is not violated, because as the glue dries, the tile begins to mix and shrink slightly. The tile “breathes” through the space left, and this circumstance cannot be ignored.

• Wide seams, exceeding half a centimeter in size, usually occur when using porcelain stoneware floor tiles, the dimensions of which are not small, and therefore must be designed accordingly.

For grouting floor tiles it is better to choose mastics made from resins. They will provide excellent protection and satisfy aesthetic tastes.

• Narrow seams, not exceeding 5 mm in size, are usually formed during facing works to protect against dirt and decorate walls. Here it is better to use moisture-resistant mastic compositions produced on a cement basis.

Additives, additives, plasticizers only improve the properties of this material. In stores, such grout is purchased in the form of a powder mixture, having a very affordable cost.

• Joints in the corners of the bathroom, where excellent waterproofing is required due to constant high humidity, it is recommended to treat with silicone sealant. It is he who is able to perfectly protect walls and floors, especially in places where plumbing is located, providing competent sealing and grouting bathroom tiles.

This part of the finishing work also performs decorative functions, so the choice of shade is so important. And here a whole range of options is possible. You can make your own material.

True, this task is notable for some difficulties. In the process of creation, achieving the necessary color range, it should be borne in mind that when drying, the grout sometimes becomes lighter by a couple of tones.

• The white color of the grout is very useful if the tile design is made with some defects. Such a shade does not differ in flashy brightness, because of this, it will not be too striking for observers. This is a great way to compensate for the lack of professional skills, and is often very useful to use.

• It is advantageous to choose a contrasting shade with the general background of the laid tiles if, in contrast to the previously described, the lining is perfectly executed. Such a play of colors will only emphasize the quality of the work.

• Transparent grout, which does not reflect tile light and resembles thoroughly diluted milk in color, finds its best use in the version with multi-colored tiles.

Such ideas are often implemented in interior design when complex color mosaic solutions are implemented. But transparent grout is usually used if the dimensions of the joints between the modules do not exceed 2 mm.

Making grouting tile joints It is most convenient to use a ready-made color scheme, because the major manufacturers of these products, presenting new collections, offer an excellent choice of materials.

A variety of quality and color characteristics is obtained through the use of new technologies. The seams between the tiles can be filled under the metal, make the joints bronze, silver and gold.

In accordance with your own taste and design fantasies, it is always possible to pick up something interesting, unusual, impressive.

Types of grout

To finish the seams, mastics are used - special putties purchased as a ready-made composition or in the form of a dry powder. In the second option, which is more suitable for do-it-yourself tile grouting, when used, the mastic has to be pre-cooked.

It is diluted with water and stirred with a construction mixer. This is not difficult to do, since the proportions necessary to comply with this procedure can be found on the packaging.

It is possible to buy ready-made fugues already diluted, but in order to save money, this is not entirely advisable, but tile grout price will increase significantly.

• When using a material, it is necessary to take into account its initial properties. The convenience of cement-based mixtures, the qualities of which are only improved with the use of additives, lies in the rapid drying.

But in the absence of appropriate skills that slow down the work, such a circumstance should be taken into account. We have to try to use the material as soon as possible.

Otherwise, the substance will soon harden and become unusable. And when making repairs, it is necessary to dilute the components in exactly the amount that may be required.

• When using resin-based mastic, it is best to pay attention to epoxy grouts that are popular among experienced repairmen.

The line of such products offered in stores is endowed with a high viscosity, therefore it is extremely in demand when finishing moisture-resistant rooms. This material has many advantages, and negative indicators are practically minimized.

After drying, such a material surpasses plastic in strength, it washes well and rarely gets dirty. In this case, any means are perfect for cleaning tiles, such a grout is not afraid of even the most aggressive chemistry, although soapy water is often enough to keep tiles with a similar finish in order.

Epoxy fugues are not afraid of heat and significant frosts and, unlike cement-based products, they do not crumble over time, although they fade. Fugue with furan resin components, often used for finishing work in factories. Such material is very stable and not affected by chemistry.

Among the main disadvantages of epoxy grout: high hardening speed (only about an hour). This feature undoubtedly makes such a composition unpleasant for use by non-professionals who find it difficult to get rid of the problems that arise due to the specified property of this grout.

In the event that material costs do not bother the master, it is undoubtedly more convenient to use finished products for grouting tiles: buy and to avoid the time and effort spent on preparing material for repairs, since everything necessary is done in an industrial way.

But opening the container, you first need to inquire about the shelf life. Otherwise, a huge part of the product may disappear into the void, which will never happen in the variant if dry formulations are adopted. Such a mixture tends to be stored for an indefinitely long time.

• When finishing facades, special materials are used, which means that it will be required grouting clinker tiles. It is produced with the calculation of compensation for the undesirable effects of temperature fluctuations, so that the brittle does not crack.

It is more convenient to grout in a dry form and turn the finishing material immediately before work. The proposed range of colors of joint fillers is extensive, but there are no special recommendations for choosing a tone. Here everyone should be guided by their own tastes and priorities.

Grout application

When the right choice of material is made, the next step in the repair should be the preparation of tools for work. First of all, you need a rubber flexible spatula for grouting tiles.

This tool can be replaced with a pastry bag, which will help to accurately and efficiently fill the joints between the modules with a fugue if the distances between them are too large. In addition, you need a sponge for rubbing and a brush.

Finally, you can go to the main stage. The grouting procedure itself does not have any particular difficulties, only a simple algorithm should be followed.

1. Dust and dirt, as well as adhesive residues, are carefully removed from the tile. Next, you should knead the composition in small portions to seal the holes between the tiles and wait about ten minutes so that all the processes in it are brought to full readiness.

2. With a wet sponge, before starting work, each seam, previously treated with antifungal compounds, should be abundantly moistened. A similar ritual is necessary for disinfection and so that the moisture from the grout is less sucked out.

3. Application starts from the farthest edge of the room. To do this, the gaps between the seams are jointed with a spatula until the voids are completely filled. Next, excess grout mixture is removed to the boundaries of the tile modules.

4. To prevent cracking of the grout, at the end of the work, moisten the filled joints with a wet sponge. This should be done when the solution dries a little.

For experienced craftsmen, the entire described work takes a little more than a quarter of an hour. But we should not forget that as the grout dries, the space between the joints sags. For this reason, the procedure takes place in two, sometimes even in three steps, and the boundaries of the wall and tiled lining are sealed with silicone sealant.

5. After the grout has dried, the joints are treated with an antiseptic and epoxy resin to protect the tiles from water penetration and extend the life of the finish.

6. Next, with a damp sponge, all dirt remaining after finishing work is removed. And then it remains only to care for the seams, maintaining cleanliness using a solution of soapy water, vinegar, citric acid, or a disinfectant suitable for cleaning.

How to prevent cracking?

At the joints between the modules, the grout may begin to crack. How to avoid it? First you need to understand the reasons, and then it is possible to draw conclusions.

• This may be a consequence of a violation of technology when mixing the solution. When self-breeding, all the rules must be observed, and the resulting substance must be settled for at least five minutes before use, then mixed again.
• In some cases, cracks begin to appear already during the grouting process itself. This becomes a signal that the solution prepared for work is not thick enough. Using too liquid material is an unpleasant, but correctable mistake.
• To eliminate its consequences, the dry powder ingredient should be rubbed directly into the cracks formed. The composition of the solution also has to be changed, bringing it to a favorable consistency. It should have medium viscosity and be homogeneous.

• Cracking can be caused by the condition of the seams. It should be ensured that they are wide enough and cleaned with all care during the preparatory work.
• Cracking can be caused by external factors. For this reason, during the drying period of the grout, hot water should not be used in abundance in the room (especially in the bathroom), as well as airing.

Summing up and making a final conclusion, it should be concluded that the main rule in the work when conducting grouting ceramic tiles- this is a clear implementation of all requirements.

It is better to follow exactly what is written in the instructions on the package, taking into account information about the width of the seams, the application of the material and the conditions for its drying. Then there should be no problems, unless, of course, the tile itself is superimposed on an unstable, for example, wooden base.

How to update the seam between tiles?

After completing the finishing work, you can enjoy the fruits of your labor. However, in some cases, the feeling of satisfaction is short-lived. And after some time, the grout loses its freshness, and the appearance of the finish becomes not at all as wonderful as it was after installation.

• There are several ways out. To update, the grout is bleached using hydrogen peroxide and soda. After mixing these two components, the resulting substance is applied to the seams using an ordinary toothbrush. But it is better and faster to update the openings using a steam cleaner.

When the appearance of the tile ceases to please completely, you should not rush to dismantle it or run to the store for a new one in order to urgently make another repair.

Often the cause of the unsatisfactory condition of the ceramic finish is the contamination of the joints. In some cases, it may be sufficient to simply grouting old tile joints. There are several ways to carry out the plan.

• The most practical and easy method is staining. However, in this case, the appearance of the tile will change for no more than six months. In addition, difficulties may arise with the search for a paint composition suitable for a humid environment.

It is also possible, on top of the outdated one, to apply a new layer of grout. But this makes sense if the seams between the modules are sufficiently voluminous and have recesses of at least two millimeters.

• Radical, and therefore effective, measures to update the appearance of the cladding include a complete replacement of the contents of the joints. But how to remove grout from tile joints?

Fresh grouting material, no more than a day old, can simply be soaked with water if for some reason it has become objectionable. And after a thorough cleaning of the inter-module openings and complete drying, there is a second chance to do everything in the best possible way.

It is possible to use the sandpaper folded into a tube when the grout has had time to grab, but not much time has passed since the repair work. If the surface of the tile is contaminated with old grout, you should resort to using ordinary sunflower oil, which will help remove unpleasant residues.

When the described options are not suitable for eliminating obsolete grout due to a long service life, there is nothing left but to resort to a mechanical method of getting rid of the contents of the inter-module openings.

1. Before starting work, a sharp object (you can use a knife) should be drawn straight along the tile seam, and then, changing the angle of inclination, do the same two more times, only a little to the left and to the right of the original line. Then proceed with a drill and an electric drill.

2. If the tile has become completely unusable: it has broken off and almost does not stick to the surface, it will no longer be possible to manage with light repairs and cosmetic measures.

3. The mechanical method of removing the old grout will adversely affect the condition of the old tile, and it may well happen that it will simply crumble. The most correct decision in this case is to change the old finish to a qualitatively new one, which will be more beautiful and more convenient.

Of course, it is an excellent and practical floor covering. It is especially good in rooms exposed to moisture, and places characterized by high traffic. That is why such floors are most popular in many offices and institutions. Our apartments are no exception. Tiles on the floor today can be found not only in bathrooms and kitchens and hallways, but sometimes even in living rooms. Fortunately, on the construction market you can find an extensive range of this material, sometimes capable of imitating almost any surface. True, this flooring will be beautiful only if it can be correctly and accurately laid. And an important role in this procedure is played by the final stage - grouting the tiles on the floor. It is on how correctly this is done that the visual effect produced by the coating will depend.

How do they rub the seams between the tiles on the floor, how to do it right and why do you need to do it at all? We will answer all these questions in our review.

What are seams and why overwrite them

During the master, special crosses are laid between the elements, which contribute to the formation of seams - the same distances between each tile. And they are needed so that, firstly, the facing material in the end looks neat and aesthetically pleasing. In addition, laying is not always carried out on a solid foundation; sometimes there is a floor under the tile, which can be subject to shrinkage processes. And if you do not leave these small distances, then the ceramic coating can simply crack under the influence of the movements of the same concrete slab occurring under it. However, if the joints are left unfilled, then over time they will simply become clogged with dirt, which is unlikely to contribute to a favorable impression of the floor. And in those rooms where there is moisture, mold will begin to form in the seams. And so that such problems do not arise, the seam between the tiles is filled with special mixtures - grouts.

What are grouts

Before looking for information on how to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor correctly, you need to familiarize yourself with the types of this very grout. Professionals also call it a fugue. The fact is that not every material presented in stores is suitable for a particular room. All grout compositions are divided into types. There are quite a few of them, but it is enough for a non-professional to know only that there are fugues made on the basis of cement, made on the basis of epoxy resin and combined, which are called epoxy-cement.

The former belong to the category of the simplest and are suitable for use only in those rooms in which there is practically no humidity. If we take into account the fact that it is almost impossible not to wash the floors, then this option can not be considered at all. That is, grouting ceramic tiles on the floor with a cement fugue is undesirable.

Epoxy grouts are the highest quality and are suitable for any coating in any room, as they have high strength characteristics and are moisture resistant. However, they have one significant drawback. They are quite expensive. In addition, they are suitable for filling joints with a width of at least four millimeters, and it is quite difficult for a non-professional to work with them. Therefore, the home master is advised to pay attention to the intermediate option, which is ideal for flooring not only in the living quarters of apartments, but also in bathrooms and kitchens. Simply put, a cement-epoxy fugue is considered a universal option for the home, since it can be used to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor in almost any room.

How to choose "your" grout

First of all, you need to read what is written on the package. The manufacturer must indicate there the optimal width of the seams, in which it is rational to use one or another fugue. Accordingly, you need to know your own dimensions. There are also universal grouts. They can be used on flooring, the width of the joints of which is from two to twenty-two millimeters.

Then, having chosen the desired composition, pay attention to its color. The palette of shades in the store is presented in a large assortment, but you still need to know some basic rules. For example, the fact that contrasting grout can only be used if you are sure that your tile is laid perfectly. As a rule, the best option is to choose a tone that is as close as possible to the color of the tile. If the latter has a pattern of a different shade, then you can take a fugue of the same color as him.

Process steps

Before grouting the seams on the tiles on the floor, you must first wait a day after. This time can just be spent on buying a fugue and the necessary tools. The process of grouting itself consists of several stages. These are: preparation of the base, dilution of the grout (unless, of course, you purchased it ready-made, which, by the way, is quite expensive), applying the mortar to the seams, removing excess and final cleaning.

What will the master need to have for the grouting procedure

Special equipment and tools are not required, however, some set will still have to be prepared. Naturally, the grout itself must already be purchased directly. By the way, it can be in the form of a powder, or it can be sold already ready for use. In principle, the second option is better in every way, since it is much easier to rub the seams on the tiles on the floor with such a composition, if only because it already has the desired consistency. To achieve the latter is not quite a skillful master, who carries out this procedure for the first time, with self-kneading, it is quite difficult the first time.

However, such a fugue also has its drawbacks. And the main one among them, in addition to the cost mentioned above, is that such a grout is not subject to long-term storage. That is, the remains of an expensive mixture, most likely, will have to be thrown away. So experts recommend that novice craftsmen still purchase dry grouts. And since such a thing, it is required to have on hand in this case also a container for breeding. You will also need a trowel, a special spatula (rubber), a foam sponge and clean rags, a bucket of water, gloves and an abrasive grater.

Training

The tiled floor must be carefully cleaned of tile adhesive, if any, as well as dirt and dust. It also does not hurt to walk first with a vacuum cleaner, and then with a brush along the seams. Then you need to take a sponge and moisten them with plenty of water. After that, you can start breeding grout.

How to breed fugu

First, experts recommend carefully reading the instructions. Despite the fact that the grout dilution procedure is, in principle, the same, each manufacturer may still have its own nuances. Therefore, do not be lazy and carefully study what is written on the label. Then take three-quarters of the water from the rate indicated on the package and pour the puffer into it. Mix everything carefully. And then slowly add water until the solution reaches the desired consistency. After 10 minutes you can start working. It is necessary to grout only with gloves, since the mixture is quite capable of corroding the skin of the hands with prolonged contact.

Advice from experts! Since the novice master does not yet have the necessary skills, and the grout dries out within just a few hours, it is better not to dilute the entire mixture at once. Divide the contents of the package into two parts. And work out one first, and then the other. As for the amount of water needed for kneading, it must also be divided by half.

We rub the seams on the floor

The most common is the method using a rubber spatula. Since it will not be necessary to work immediately on the entire territory, but to process tiles literally per square meter, experts recommend moistening a couple of “squares” with water immediately before the process itself. In general, professionals process 2-3 square meters. m in twenty minutes. A novice master will not be able to achieve such a speed, but this is not so important. The main thing here is accuracy and careful observance of technology. Well, the fact that you finish the work an hour or two later does not really matter.

So, how to properly grout tiles? Apply a puffer to the rubber spatula and begin to fill the seams with diagonal movements. And do not just smear on top, but try to press the composition, as it were, so that it fills the seam completely. Remove excess with the same spatula. At the same time, make sure that the filled joint coincides in level with the level of the tile. That is, if there are any recesses or voids, be sure to immediately add a fugue there. Since you need to grout the tiles on the floor in stages, work this way for about half an hour. After that, proceed to cleaning the jointed area.

To do this, arm yourself with a bucket of water and a sponge. Constantly wetting it and squeezing it well, go through the foam rubber over the entire surface, making movements in a circle. Your goal is to remove excess from the tile itself and the seams. If stains remain on the tile - this is not a problem. They will be removed during the final cleaning process. Now the main thing is not to leave pieces of dried fugue on ceramics. It won't be easy to remove it later. After you have processed one area, proceed to the next. And so on until all the seams are worn.

Finishing

After a day, you can begin to correct. It may well be that in some places the seams are not uniform enough. That is, there are surpluses. Experts recommend in this case to take either a grater and go through all the seams with them, holding the tool at one angle. Simply put, polish them. After that, you need to remove it with a vacuum cleaner, and then again take up wet cleaning. That is, thoroughly rinse the seams and tiles with a foam rubber sponge, periodically changing the dirty water. After the floor dries, stains may remain on it. Experts recommend in this case not to wash it a hundred times, but simply carefully wipe it with a dry cloth. On this, the procedure can be considered completed.

How to grout tiles in the bathroom on the floor

Just like in any other room. Except that in this case, experts recommend adding another step - covering the joints with sealant. After all, the bathroom, like no other, is exposed to moisture. And quite often the seams on the floor, and even on the walls, turn black from mold. And to prevent this from happening, buy a special sealant. It represents a liquid. It should be applied three days after grouting (you need to let the fugue dry). Take a thin brush for drawing and gently coat the seams with it.

Conclusion

We tried to tell as much as possible in detail about how to overwrite the tiles on the floor. And at the same time they shared the secrets of experienced craftsmen and gave recommendations from specialists. We hope that now you will not have any difficulties with grouting tile joints.

Grouting tiles on the floor is a necessary job. This measure provides additional protection to the coating, but it is important to choose the right material: seam joints must withstand the load exerted on them, attention should be paid to mixtures with a low level of hygroscopicity. When applying, you need to follow some rules, which will also help increase the service life of the grout. In order for the flooring to look organic, the materials used must be matched by color.

The best technology for sealing seam joints is based on the use of special compounds that protect the adhesive from moisture and chemicals. For this purpose, the following types of grouts are used:

1. cement;
2. epoxy;
3. polymer (latex, silicone).

The first of the options is cheaper than analogues, it has a simple composition. Such materials are considered universal, because they are used for tiles of various types. Cement grout is offered in two versions:

• with the addition of sand;
• without sand.

The last of the varieties has no restrictions on use. Grout containing sand cannot be used for grouting between enamelled tiles. Small fractions will scratch products. Marble also does not tolerate contact with cement grout containing sand. The disadvantage of such mixtures is hygroscopicity. Modifiers can be added to improve properties.

Epoxy grout is durable, does not absorb moisture, well protects seam joints from chemicals, which is important for flooring. It may contain epoxy or furan resin. These components contribute to the rapid drying of the mixture. For this reason, it is better to clean the coating immediately after applying the grout, because after a while it will be impossible to remove it. There are combined materials - two-component. These include epoxy-cement grout.

Polymer mixtures are elastic, they are not hygroscopic. Due to these properties, they reliably protect the coating from the effects of aggressive factors, do not deform, and withstand significant tensile and compressive loads. Polymer grout (silicone) belongs to the group of sealants, offered in a tube. The latex material can be used alone and as an additive to other mixtures.

How to choose depending on the lining and operating conditions?

In everyday life, a cement-based composition is most often used. In rooms with high humidity, a mixture containing resins should be applied to the floor. It is important to remember that epoxy / furan grout must be removed from the tile immediately. If the floor covering is regularly exposed to aggressive substances (detergents, etc.), it is recommended to use the same composition. However, epoxy and furan mixtures have varying degrees of resistance to different types of chemicals.

Polymer grouts are more commonly used for bathroom floor tiles. They tolerate moisture well. However, there are restrictions on the ambient temperature. Application in unsuitable conditions will lead to partial or complete loss of properties. Almost all mixtures of this group can withstand temperatures up to +50°C.

Grouting ceramic tiles is universal. It is suitable for natural or artificial stone, porcelain stoneware and other types of products. The exception is mixtures with fine-grained filler. Such substances are not used for grouting enameled tiles, marble.

Seam width

The farther apart the products are located, the more reliable the grout should be. For wide joints (from 0.5 cm and more), mixtures containing sand are used. This increases the strength of the material. For narrow joints (up to 0.5 cm), any mixture that does not contain sand is suitable. Narrow seams between tiles (0.2-0.7 cm) are rubbed with silicone-containing substances. If this rule is not followed, the fastening strength is reduced.

Grouting floor joints with a width of more than 1.2 cm is carried out using mixtures containing coarse fillers. For narrow seam joints (up to 0.3 cm), epoxy is often used. There are many options for filling joints, when choosing, you need to take into account the type of decorative coating, the composition of the grout. If the tile is square, it is better to leave a small distance between the products (up to 0.3 cm). In the case when the tile / porcelain stoneware is characterized by an irregular shape, the seam joints should be wider. This measure allows you to hide irregularities.

Color selection

If there are no special preferences, use finishing materials of neutral shades. In this case, white, beige grout is suitable. The mixture may be gray, brown. To get the appearance of a monolithic coating, the choice of grout color is made taking into account the shade of the tile. In this case, a slight difference in the mixture is permissible. However, the stronger it stands out against the background of the decorative coating, the weaker the effect of solidity will be. To emphasize the elements of the pattern on the floor, contrasting materials are used. It can be black or another mixture rich in color.

How to grout tiles on the floor?

The following tools are prepared for work:

1. rubber spatula;
2. a piece of cable;
3. mixing container.

From the materials you only need the grout itself and a little water to wet the tiles. However, liquid is only used if the joints of the tile flooring are filled with a cement-based mixture. It is also necessary to prepare a cleanser, because some types of grouts dry out instantly. This applies to epoxy mixtures. Polymeric grout for joints seizes immediately.

Training

You can proceed to the next stage of work (application of a protective composition on seam joints) no earlier than a day after the decorative coating has been laid on the floor. When necessary, wait longer. It all depends on the type of glue used. Sometimes it takes a few days to move on to the next stage. If you quickly start finishing (grouting floor tiles), you can expect a deterioration in the quality of the decorative coating. In this case, the tile is displaced, pressed into the adhesive composition.

The grouting process begins with surface preparation. It is necessary to remove the cruciform beacons, excess mixture that was used to attach the decorative coating. To remove dust and small litter, use a broom, a vacuum cleaner. If this is not done, the layer of grout used to process the seams will be heterogeneous, with grains. It is not recommended to remove dust and litter using a building hair dryer, because in this case, the pollution will spread throughout the room and settle elsewhere.

Some mistakenly believe that the cross-shaped beacons used in the process of laying decorative material should not be removed at the stage of applying the grout. If you act according to this opinion, the fugue will dry unevenly. Light spots will remain at the installation points of the beacons.

Laying tiles

Choose an adhesive. This must be done taking into account the type of decorative material. A layer of adhesive can be applied in two ways: only on the floor or on the floor and tiles. It depends on the dimensions of the products. The distance between them is regulated by means of cruciform beacons. The solution is applied with a spatula. The laying direction is determined by the configuration of the room. It is recommended to start such work from that corner of the room, which will be in sight after furnishing. The next step is grouting the floor tiles. Pre-prepare the tools and the mixture.

How to make grout yourself?

The process of performing such work is simple, but requires attention to detail. Sequencing:

• Prepare grout for floor tiles. It must be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Even the slightest deviation from the technology will lead to a change in consistency, which is fraught with loss of material properties.

• If the finishing of seam joints is done by hand, you need to prepare a special tool - a rubber spatula. With it, it will be possible to avoid deformation of the tile coating and fill the seams as much as possible. For large areas, a trowel is used.

• Cement, epoxy compounds and sealant are applied according to a similar principle. So, you need to use a little more mixture than necessary. Thanks to this, it becomes possible to fill the pores and the smallest cracks. To properly grout tiles, you need to be able to hold the tool. The spatula should be held at an angle. Its surface must be adjacent to the decorative coating over the entire width. Excess mixture will be removed by itself if you draw a spatula along the edges of adjacent tiles. The cover must be cleaned immediately.

• Seams are being stitched. To do this, use a piece of cable. It must be laid along the seam connection and pressed in until it stops. This will remove excess mixture.

Before applying the cement mixture, the edges of the decorative coating are moistened with water. Before applying resin-based grout, the tile is treated with wax. For a warm floor, heat-resistant materials are selected. To finish the self-leveling floor, you need to wait longer than a day.

Cleaning after application

Work begins some time after filling the seams. It is enough to wait until the grout dries slightly. First, clean the areas that are more polluted. In this case, a mechanical method is used. Dried grout is removed with a rubber, plastic spatula. Then move on to wet cleaning. Apply water, a soft sponge and detergents.

For faster removal of the grout from the surface of the tile, special tools are used. They are toxic, so you need to work with gloves. If, when applying the grout, the coating is slightly contaminated, improvised means are used: soapy water, dishwashing liquid.

The grout performs several functions at once: it provides waterproofing of the joints, prevents the appearance of mold, hides minor laying defects and uneven edges of the tile itself. In addition, it is the grout that gives the cladding a neat, finished look, emphasizes the color and texture of the tile. Consider how to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor, and what composition is needed for this.

Grouts are available in the form of a ready-made mixture or dry powder, which must be diluted to a paste state immediately before processing the seams. The basis of the grout is cement or resin, as a result of which the compositions differ in their characteristics and scope.

There are two types of such grouts - based on sand-cement and based on Portland cement. The first type is the simplest and cheapest grout, designed for wide joints (more than 5 mm). The composition may have different grain sizes, depending on the fraction of sand used. Such a grout is short-lived, crumbles during cleaning, does not tolerate prolonged exposure to water. In addition, it cannot be used on glazed tiles, since sharp grains of sand leave many small scratches on the surface.

The second type is a mixture of cement and various additives that contribute to the plasticity of the mixture and slow down its setting. It is intended for seams 3-5 mm wide. To dilute the dry mixture, water or liquid latex is used, which increases the hydrophobic properties of the grout. Such a grout is easy to apply, fills the seams with high quality, can be used on glazed tiles.

Grout for tile joints - consistency

Advantages of the cement composition:

• very affordable price;
• simplicity and ease of application;
• if replacement is necessary, the old grout is removed from the joints without much effort.

Disadvantages:

• susceptibility to cracking;
• insufficient moisture resistance;
• lack of resistance to chemically aggressive substances;
• limited color range.

Resin Grout

Such a grout is called a two-component grout, because it is mixed with a hardener before use. Furan or epoxy resin acts as the basis: the first type is used in the industrial sector, the second is suitable for both industrial and domestic use.

Epoxy grout has good moisture and chemical resistance. Seams treated with this composition are easier to clean from dirt, do not absorb water, do not crumble, and retain their original color for a very long time. By the way, the color range of epoxy grouts is much richer and brighter than that of cement grouts, which is due to the presence of special pigments in the composition.

Advantages:

• resistance to temperature extremes and negative influences;
• abrasion resistance;
• plastic;
• dirt-repellent properties;
• fade resistance.

Disadvantages:

• high price;
• application complexity.

Prices for grout for tiles "Ceresite"

ceresit tile grout

Choice of grout

Grout affects the overall perception of the cladding, and the wrong choice of composition can completely spoil the impression. In order not to be mistaken, you should select the grout taking into account the type of tile surface, the width of the joints, and the color scheme of the finish. The following tips will help you decide:

• for glass tiles and mosaics, it is recommended to use translucent epoxy compounds. After drying, they do not shine through the tile, unlike other mixtures;
• for tiles with a relief or untreated surface, it is necessary to additionally purchase a protective compound that prevents the grout from penetrating into the pores;
• cement grouts are chosen for wide joints (5-15 mm), epoxy for narrow ones (1-5 mm). As a rule, manufacturers always indicate the permissible joint width for a particular type of mixture on the grout packaging;
• for a bathroom, kitchen and bathroom it is worth buying epoxy grouts, for dry rooms - cement.

As for color, there are also rules here. You can make a colored grout yourself by adding a coloring pigment to the mixture, but in this case it is difficult to achieve the desired shade. In addition, if the composition is poorly mixed, the seams after grouting will be painted unevenly, which immediately catches the eye. It is best to buy a ready-made color mixture: each hardware store presents the available samples on special fans or layouts.

The color of the grout matters a lot. To emphasize the geometry of the tile, you need to choose a composition that is contrasting in color, that is, dark grout is chosen for light tiles, and light for dark tiles. Bright colored grouts give the cladding a fresh and elegant look, but at the same time emphasize the slightest laying errors. But muted pastel colors add restraint and smooth out defects.

In order for the seams to harmonize in color with the finish, it is recommended to choose the color of the grout according to the darkest or the lightest shade that is present in the tile pattern. If the lining is black and white, the seams should be gray. In general, gray is a universal color, it is suitable for any tile, so if you cannot decide, choose it and you will not be mistaken.

It is not recommended to use white grout for floor tiles: the slightest dirt is clearly visible on the white seams, so they will have to be cleaned much more often. In addition, over time, such a grout acquires a yellowish tint, and the seams have a less attractive appearance. The best option for floor tiles are grouts in all shades of brown and gray.

To increase the decorativeness of tile joints, special additives are produced - mother-of-pearl, luminescent, as well as silver and gold chips. All of them are designed for epoxy grouts, and mixing with a cement composition does not give the desired effect. These additives are sold separately and are simply mixed with the working composition until smooth before grouting. The processed seams look very impressive, and, depending on the type of additive, they can shimmer in the light with brilliant sparks, cast in mother-of-pearl, bronze, platinum, or glow in the dark.

Table. Popular brands of grouts

Grout Width

The width of the joints also affects the overall perception of the cladding and the quality of the grout. For square and rectangular tiles, the optimal joint width is 1.5-3 mm; for irregularly shaped tiles, the joints can be increased to 12 mm. The wider the seam, the higher the likelihood of cracking under the influence of intense loads on the floor, so making seams wider than 12 mm is undesirable. In addition, with a large width of the joints, the grout consumption unreasonably increases.

At the same time, joints less than 1.5 mm wide are difficult to fill, especially if a thick epoxy mixture is used. And poor-quality filling contributes to the penetration of moisture to the ends of the tile, the accumulation of dirt, and the development of mold. Cleaning too narrow seams is also difficult, and over time, the lining becomes sloppy.

How to properly seal seams

The grouting process is quite simple and consists of three main stages: preparing the seams, applying the grout mixture, and cleaning the surface. Let's consider each of them in detail.

To process the seams you will need:

• rubber and narrow metal spatula;
• capacity for kneading grout;
• construction mixer;
• dry grout;
• a bucket of clean water;
• sponge or soft cloth.

Grouting can be started a day after finishing the floor, provided that the tiles are laid on the adhesive. If laying was carried out on a cement mortar, grouting is performed no earlier than a week or 10 days later, depending on the temperature and humidity conditions in the room. The grout itself is carried out at a temperature of +5 ° C to +35 ° C and a humidity of not more than 70%. It is also necessary to exclude drafts and forced floor heating so that the mixture dries naturally. Only under these conditions will the seams be as strong and durable as possible.

Step 1. The surface of the tile is cleaned of dirt with a damp sponge, the remaining solution is removed with a rubber spatula.

Step 2 Clean the seams of glue by half the thickness of the tile. This can be done with a plastic cross, a corner of a spatula, or any other suitable object. The main thing is not to damage the edges and the decorative layer of the tile. Finally, wipe the surface with a clean, dry cloth.

Step 3 Mix the grout solution. Water is poured into the container, then the dry composition is poured and mixed with a mixer until smooth. The ratio of water and powder for different brands of grout is different, so be sure to look for the proportions in the instructions on the package. These proportions must be strictly adhered to, otherwise the solution may delamination, the appearance of cracks in the seams during drying, and other defects.

Add the dry mixture to the water according to the instructions on the package.

Advice. It is not necessary to immediately prepare a lot of the solution, since it seizes rather quickly and is unsuitable for work after hardening. It is better to knead in small portions that you have time to fully work out.

Step 4 The solution is allowed to stand for about 5 minutes, then again intensively stirred with a mixer for 1-2 minutes. This will achieve maximum uniformity of the composition, which will facilitate its application and improve the quality of filling the joints.

Step 5 The solution is collected with a rubber spatula and applied across the seam with short movements, rubbing the mass inward. Excess composition is removed with longitudinal movements, holding the spatula at an angle to the surface.

Step 6 After 20 minutes after grouting, you can proceed with the initial cleaning of the tiles. To begin with, with a rubber spatula, the frozen crumbs of the solution are scraped off at the seams, and they are swept away from the surface. In the process of work, try not to catch the seams themselves, so as not to leave indentations.

Step 7 They take a damp, clean sponge and wipe off the traces of grout in short circular motions. It is impossible to rub in one place for a long time, so as not to remove excess at the joints. After the sponge, the tiles are wiped with a clean, slightly damp cloth.

Advice. For effective cleaning, the sponge should be washed as often as possible in plenty of water. A dirty sponge will only leave streaks, and it will take longer to clean.

After cleaning, you need to carefully examine all the seams: if voids and recesses are found, you should knead a little grout again and repair the defects separately. If the tile is unglazed, and in some places the grout is not cleaned well, a special cleaner will come to the rescue. Such tools are sold in all hardware stores and are relatively inexpensive. Since the cleaner is a chemically aggressive substance, it is necessary to work with it with gloves.

Tarkett floor tiles prices

tarkett floor tiles

Video - How to grout the seams on the tiles on the floor