How to make a sealing gasket or ring from assembly (construction) silicone. How to drill hardened steel at home How to make a hole in thick rubber

As an experiment, I decided to try to make o-rings for this faucet spout, since purchased oil seals have been more and more disappointing lately. I thought about replacing the factory seals with ordinary rings of a suitable diameter, but somehow I couldn’t find them at the nearest auto parts store. It is possible, of course, to increase the diameter of the seat under the gland in the body of the mixer, so that the factory gland sits more tightly in its place and adjoins the spout. But for starters, I decided to try out the rings of my own production, if it doesn’t work, then I’ll have to deal with the mixer or spout itself.

I borrowed the idea itself from the Internet, where a person machined a mold for rings in a piece of plexiglass. I decided to use ordinary paraffin for this, so that in case of an error, refill it and start sharpening again. Since the rings I need are not particularly thick, I decided to pour paraffin into a regular canning lid. We mark the center on it, for this I just stuck it with a magnet on the jaws of a screwdriver. After that, periodically turning on the screwdriver, he centered the position of the cover on the jaws in order to get rid of strong beats. Then, on the rotating lid, I put a ring mark in the middle with a marker.

We punch the center in the lid with an awl, after which we drill a hole for a suitable screw. Since the lid tin is thin, it is better to put washers under the nut and bolt. Let's tighten it all up.

We clamp the thread of the screw or bolt into a screwdriver and check for possible runout. We do not need special accuracy, since we will sharpen at low speeds. The main thing is that the plane of the cover is strictly perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the screwdriver. For this reason, it is better to use something thick-walled or put washers under the nut and bolt.

If everything is within the normal range, then put the lid on the fire and melt the paraffin in it. It should be borne in mind that the paraffin is significantly precipitated during cooling. Therefore, the thickness of the paraffin filling should be made almost twice as thick as the silicone ring we need.

After filling the lid with paraffin, leave it to cool.

We clamp the lid into the drill and make a trial inclusion. We do not set high speeds, since paraffin is easily and quickly processed at low speeds, moreover, there is less chance of making a mistake. If necessary, with a knife or some kind of scraper, we level the plane for future marking. If there is a beating of the plane, then when leveling you will feel them, since the knife at the beginning of the leveling will only remove one side of the plane.

I need to get almost the same ring as the factory one, maybe a little thicker. Therefore, I decided to cut a groove of such a size that the factory ring would simply sink flush into it. We put the old ring on the paraffin, center it, periodically turning on the screwdriver.

Moving it a little to the side, we put a mark on paraffin under it.

Then, turning on the screwdriver, we beat off the circle along this mark.

After that, we transfer the dimensions of the ring we need to paraffin, starting in size from the circle that we beat off earlier.

After we have done all the markup, we proceed to turning work.

With a screwdriver or some kind of scraper, we grind the groove to the desired depth, periodically checking its dimensions.

Five to ten minutes of work and the groove is ready. What is good about paraffin is that it is easily processed, you can almost sharpen it with a fingernail. But this is also its minus, you need to do everything very carefully, since you can easily ruin everything with one awkward movement.

We take out the form from the drill, after which we carefully fill the groove with silicone, trying to smooth the silicone flush with the paraffin. All this is best done with a piece of even plastic or cardboard, but relatively soft, so as not to damage the paraffin form. When filling with silicone, we try to avoid the formation of air bubbles.

We dry for a week, after which we remove the ring.

From acid silicone, some kind of slippery substance remains on the form. It is easily washed off in lukewarm running water and soap. You don’t even need to touch the form, just pour soapy water from your hand onto the form until this fat stops shining on paraffin.

Then we fill the mold with silicone again and dry it.

Cut off the excess film and the gaskets are ready.

In general, now these rings are waiting for their turn to be installed in the mixer, since the factory ones (which I recently installed) have not yet worn out. In addition, there is time to see what will happen to them in a couple of months, since some silicones tend to shrink in size. I thought that paraffin dissolves with little, but still noticed that it turns slightly white from contact with silicone, perhaps some kind of reaction occurs. But this did not seem to affect the shape of the rings in any way, the second ring was the same as the first, nothing corroded and did not dissolve. It seems like there are neutral silicones, most likely nothing will happen to paraffin with them. But if you need a lot of spacers, then it is probably better to grind the mold in some kind of plastic (plexiglass, etc.), then this mold will be more durable and strong.

The design of a bidet for an ordinary toilet turned out to be quite simple and accessible for repetition by almost any home master.

Eyeliner in the toilet bowl water for the bidet fountain

The first and most difficult question was the question of how to bring water into the toilet bowl. I did not want to fix the tube with the fitting on the toilet lid, since the lid periodically has to be removed for washing. Drilling a hole in a faience toilet is not an easy task, and the toilet can crack. Another visual inspection of the toilet to find a way to lay the bidet conduit suggested a simple solution.

Since the tube is flexible, it, having passed through the winding conduit of the toilet bowl, at the entrance to its bowl, was oriented arbitrarily with the end face. To give the desired direction and the possibility of fixing the tube, as well as to be able to fix the nozzle on it, one of the brass knees of the aforementioned telescopic antenna with a diameter of 4 mm and a length of 150 mm was inserted inside the tube after threading, from the side of the toilet bowl. With an internal diameter of the bidet tube of 4.5 mm, the knee was easily inserted, but it could be removed only with considerable effort.

Next, the bidet tube with the inserted antenna elbow was pushed back into the toilet water conduit. Since the conduit is not rectilinear, but the tube is straight, then, resting against the walls of the conduit, it was firmly fixed in it, even slightly bent. It was a pleasant surprise, the issue of fixing the tube for the bidet was decided by itself.

Previously, in the immediate vicinity of the end, a rectangular hole was made in the brass tube on the side surface for the passage of water into the nozzle.

In the photo you can see how the tube for the bidet fountain was installed in the toilet bowl. It turned out much better than I expected. It remains to invent and make a nozzle.

One of the main requirements for the materials of the bidet conduit is corrosion resistance, so plastic and brass were used. There are additional requirements for the fountain nozzle, the material must be antibacterial. From the available materials, meeting all these requirements, it turned out to be fluoroplastic, also called teflon. Fluoroplast is resistant to the external environment, it does not dissolve even in aqua regia. Nothing sticks to it, not even bacteria and fungi. Has a snow-white color and is easily processed. The ideal material for making bidet nozzles.

A hole 4 mm in diameter is drilled along the center of a rectangular blank made of fluoroplastic 10 × 10 × 30 mm in size, to a depth of 25 mm. To determine the angle at which it will be necessary to drill holes for the fountain, I put the future nozzle on the installed brass tube in the toilet bowl, attached the ruler to the workpiece so that its edge passed through the center of the toilet bowl and drew a line on the workpiece. If the workpiece is weakly held on a brass tube, then the end of the brass tube needs to be slightly flared.

First, one hole with a diameter of 1 mm for the fountain is drilled in the workpiece, then after testing, if the jet hits where it was intended, this hole is reamed to 2 mm (determined empirically). To check the correct angle of drilling holes, the workpiece is put on a brass tube, voltage is applied to the solenoid valve, the desired pressure of the fountain is set with the valve.

After giving the nozzle the desired shape with the help of processing on the emery column, you can proceed with the installation of the bidet system in the toilet.

The removable design of the nozzle allows you to choose the optimal angle and number of holes in it during operation. At the same time, thanks to a rectangular hole in the brass tube, you can drill holes in the nozzle from four sides and turn it 90 ° to select the washing mode you like.

Installing a bidet in a toilet

To install the proposed design of the bidet in the toilet, it is necessary to dismantle the drain tank. The drain tank is attached to the toilet seat with two M10 threaded bolts. Bolts with rubber gaskets dressed on them are inserted from the inside of the drain tank, pass through the holes in the toilet bowl and from below also through the rubber gaskets, are tightened with nuts.

Difficulties may arise when performing this work if the bolts are made of steel and are heavily corroded. It is necessary to prepare a set of fasteners for replacement in advance. When I installed the toilet, I immediately replaced the steel bolts with stainless steel studs, and replaced the nuts with caprolon nuts. For 12 years of operation, the appearance of the fasteners has not changed, and the nuts were unscrewed with ease.

After releasing the drain tank from the bolts, you need to remove it from the toilet bowl. If a flexible hose allows, then you can put a stool next to the toilet and temporarily place a drain tank on it. A picture will open before your eyes, as in the photo below.

White marks on the site, this is silicone applied when installing the cistern. Before installing a new rubber gasket, they must be removed. The gasket was in excellent condition and could be left on. But a hole had already been drilled in the new one, and it had to be installed.

Before installing the gasket, you need to thread the bidet tube into the drilled hole, pass it through the drain hole and the toilet water conduit into the bowl, insert the brass tube into the bidet tube. Next, fix the resulting structure in the water conduit of the toilet bowl, as in the experiment.

Just in case, it is advisable to give slack to the bidet tube in the form of a ring placed in the toilet drain hole.

When installing the drain tank on the toilet bowl gasket, it was found that the saddle of the drain hole in the tank acts as a ring with a nut fixing it from the tank and squeezes the hose for supplying water to the bidet. I had to make a sample in the plastic ring and nut with a round file at the place where the tube passed.

After that, the drain tank is installed in place, fixed with bolts and the water supply through the bidet tube is checked. Further, the fittings removed earlier are installed in the drain tank and the tank is closed with a lid.

The mechanical part of working with the toilet to equip it with an additional function of a bidet and water supply is over.

Outwardly, the toilet bowl has not changed, only a small snow-white bidet nozzle in the form of a drop has appeared in its bowl, a fountain of water from which will always be ready to satisfy your hygiene needs.

In the cold season, the water in the water supply is cold and can cause discomfort during hygiene procedures. To do this, water can be passed through a buffer tank, in which it will be heated to room temperature.

You can not install a solenoid valve, controlling the water supply by rotating the faucet valve. But it is much more convenient to solve this problem remotely, with the help of

Every now and then the home master needs to take a drill and drill something. This is not as easy to do as it might seem at first glance. Especially when it becomes necessary to do some really exotic operations.

How to make a hole in ceramic tiles

Drilling ceramic tiles is best at low speeds. To prevent the drill from slipping, you must first make a groove with a center punch. You can also use special templates and even masking tape. To prevent cracks from appearing on the tile, it is recommended to first place it in water for an hour. The minimum distance from the edge of the tile to the drilling point is 15 mm.

Hole in the tube with a hand drill

If you make a radial hole with a hand drill in a metal tube or rod, you should first get hold of a wooden block and make a hole in it for the diameter of the pipe. We insert a pipe into the beam, and now the drill will definitely not slip off.

Drilling two finding holes

Need to make two overlapping holes? When trying to drill like this, the drill will always slip into the finished one. In order to save yourself from unnecessary problems, you should clog the first hole with a hardwood cork. That's the whole secret.

Making a hole at a right angle

If you need to make a hole at a certain angle, it is best to prepare an appropriate template. This will greatly facilitate life and avoid the marriage of the element.

Drilling rubber

Drilling rubber is not easy, especially the rubber plug. However, sometimes such a need may arise. It is best to work with rubber with a sharp cork drill. Before starting work, it should be moistened in a solution of alkali, ammonia, potash or soda.

Drilling small parts

If you need to drill a small piece of sheet material, it can very quickly become clear that it scrolls at the time of work. In the vast majority of situations, this problem can be solved by placing a piece of sandpaper under the drilled object.

§ ten. DRILLING AND BURNING PLUGS

Holes in corks are most often made to allow glass tubes to pass through. Holes should not be made by piercing with an awl, as the cork will crumble and the hole will turn out to be extremely uneven and unsuitable for holding the tube tightly.

Rice. 237. Right and wrong drilled open stia. Burning the cork(E).Hole expansion(F).

When starting drilling, make sure that the drills are sharpened; Only then will the hole come out even. Drilling is done after fitting the cork to the neck. The drill diameter should be slightly smaller than the tube diameter. The cork should be held in your hand, but do not rest it on the table (Fig. 236, E). Between the drilled cork and the palm, it is advisable to place a second, auxiliary cork a (Fig. 236, D). Before drilling, drills are wetted in water. Drilling is started by holding the drill as shown in Figure 236, BUT. Then they put their hand on the handle (Fig. 236, AT) and continue drilling, making sure that the center lines of the drill and plug coincide. When two or three holes are drilled, their axes should be parallel to each other (Fig. 237, B and C). Do not press too hard on the drill, as this will make the surface of the hole uneven.

The most responsible is the last moment of drilling, when the drill is close to the exit to the outside. If you do not put an auxiliary plug and press hard on the drill, then the plug will crumble at the exit point of the drill (Fig. 237, D).

After drilling, immediately remove the cork post from the drill b, pushing it out with a metal bar included in the set of drills (Fig. 236, F). With extreme caution, it is necessary to drill two, and even more so three holes in one plug: it is important not to crumble the jumpers between them (Fig. 237, AT, WITH).

The cork is burned using the red-hot end of a steel bar (Fig. 237, E). The charred layer can be removed from the hole using a thin round file.

com. At the glass tube inserted into the hole, the end should be melted, which will facilitate this operation. The tube to be inserted must be turned while acting in the longitudinal direction (Fig. 234). It is useful to moisten the tube with water to facilitate. Care should be taken to properly grasp the tube in order to avoid breaking it and injuring the hand (Fig. 234).

Large holes in the cork can be cut with a sharp round chisel and then leveled by filing with a round file (Fig. 237,F).

§eleven. DRILLING RUBBER PLUGS

Rubber plugs are more difficult to drill than cork plugs. Therefore, when drilling rubber stoppers, it is necessary to use especially sharp drill bits and, in addition, moisten their working ends several times with a thick soapy solution (rub on a wet bar of soap and moisten with glycerin).

Do not press hard on the drills, especially at the end of the process, otherwise the hole will come out conical. If, when removing the drill for the next lubrication, the rubber column breaks and remains inside the drill, then it must be pushed out before further drilling.

Attempts to make (pierce) a hole in the rubber stopper with an awl will be unsuccessful. Burning a hole with a hot metal bar is applicable only to thin layers of rubber. Burning is accompanied by the release of fumes with an unpleasant odor.

Glass tubes are inserted into the holes made in the same way as in the cortical ones (Fig. 234). Wetting with water or soapy water facilitates this operation.

§ 12. CUTTING OF SHEET RUBBER

Rubber tubes and sheet rubber can be cut with a sharp knife or ordinary sharp scissors. Rubber threads and tapes can be cut from sheet rubber or cut lengthwise and flattened rubber tubes. It is necessary to cut with the sharpest knife or razor. In this case, you must use a metal ruler as a guide.

§ 13. HOLING IN RUBBER

Large holes in sheet rubber can be cut with scissors or a sharp knife. For making small holes, well-sharpened cork drills should be used (in this case, sheet rubber is spread on a sheet of plywood). Very small holes in sheet rubber and in the walls of rubber tubes can be burned with a hot awl (Fig. 238).

Rice. 238. Penetration of holes in a rubber tube.

In this case, the edges of the hole will be sticky; to destroy stickiness, they should be sprinkled with talcum powder.

§ 14. CONNECTION OF RUBBER PIPES

Rubber tubes of the same diameter are connected using a short metal or glass tube.

Rice. 2^9. Putting a rubber tube on a glass tube.

Rice. 240. Glass connector (BUT andAT).Fixing the rubber tube to the glass(CM).

(Fig. 239, AT). The diameter of this tube is taken slightly larger than the diameter of the lumen of the rubber tubes. The ends of the glass connecting tube must be rounded, which is achieved by melting them (Chapter 12, § 9). Figure 239,BUT shows how to put a rubber tube on a glass one.

In order to avoid jumping off rubber tubes with glass, they should be tied up with a wire or a harsh thread (Fig. 240,With -G). Such tying is absolutely necessary in installations with mercury and in the case when gas or water under pressure is channeled through pipes. Wrapping the end of the rubber tube, as shown in Figure 239, Cu£>, increases the strength of the connection.

If the diameter of the connecting tube is smaller than the diameter of the rubber tube, then the required sealing is achieved by us*

sticking a strip of paper lubricated with rubber glue onto the end of the connecting tube (Fig. 240, L), and tying the junction with wire (Fig. 240, M).

On sale there are connecting glass tubes equipped with swellings at the ends (Fig. 240, L and I). A rubber tube put on such a connecting tube usually does not require a garter (Fig. 240, TO) To connect rubber tubes of various diameters, connecting conical tubes (couplings) with swellings of various diameters are commercially available (Fig. 240, A and B).

To make rubber tubes easier to put on glass or metal connecting tubes, it is useful to moisten their ends with water.

To improve the basic characteristics of the metal, it is often hardened. This technology provides for increasing the hardness of the product due to the strong heating of the metal and its rapid cooling. In some cases, after heat treatment, it is necessary to perform drilling. By increasing this characteristic, it becomes more difficult to drill hardened metal. Consider all the features of drilling hardened steel in more detail.

Drilling a hole in hardened steel

The spread of the question of how to drill hardened steel can be attributed to the fact that when using conventional technology, the tool quickly becomes dull and becomes unusable. That is why it is necessary to pay attention to the features of drilling a hardened alloy. Among the features of the technology, we note the following points:

1. It is necessary to properly prepare the hardened workpiece.
2. In some cases, a special tool is required.
3. coolant is used.

If necessary, you can make a drill for hardened steel with your own hands, which requires certain equipment and skills. However, in most cases, a purchased version is used, as it will do a better job when cutting hardened steel.

Nuances when drilling

The technology under consideration has a fairly large number of features that need to be considered. Drilling of hardened metal is carried out taking into account the following points:

1. Before carrying out work, attention should be paid to the hardness of the surface. According to this parameter, the most suitable drill is selected. Hardness can be determined using a variety of technologies.
2. During drilling, a large amount of heat is generated. That is why there is a rapid wear of the cutting edge. In this regard, in many cases, a liquid is supplied to the cutting zone for cooling.
3. When cutting difficult-to-cut material, it is necessary to sharpen the cutting edge from time to time. For this, a conventional grinding machine or a special tool is used. Only a diamond-coated wheel is suitable as an abrasive.

There are various methods for cutting hardened steel. Some of them greatly simplify the processing. Only when all the nuances are taken into account can the quality of the resulting hole be improved.

Useful tips for drilling

A variety of technologies can be used to work with hardened steel. The most common technologies are characterized by the following features:

1. Acid surface treatment. This technology is characterized by long-term use, since it takes quite a long time to reduce the surface hardness. For etching, sulfuric, perchloric or other acid can be used. The procedure involves the creation of a ledge that will contain the applied substance in the cutting zone. After prolonged exposure, the metal becomes softer, it will be possible to drill using the normal version.
2. You can use the welding machine to achieve your goal. When exposed to high temperature, the metal becomes softer, which greatly simplifies the procedure.
3. Most often, a special drill is used. On sale there are options that can be used for processing hardened steel. In their manufacture, metal is used with increased resistance to wear and high temperatures. However, the complexity of manufacturing and some other points determine that the cost of a special tool is quite high.

In addition, a punch is often purchased to achieve the goal. With it, you can make a small hole, which will simplify further drilling.

Use of lubricants

When drilling hardened steel, serious friction occurs. That is why it is recommended to purchase and use various lubricants. Among the features of this processing method, we note the following points:

1. To begin with, the drilling zone is processed. A small amount of lubricant is applied to the surface where the hole will be.
2. Oil is added to the cutting edge. To process hardened steel, a small amount of substance is required, but it must be added from time to time, since it scatters when the tool rotates.
3. During operation, it is recommended to take breaks to cool the cutting surface and the work surface.

Special oil allows not only to simplify drilling, but also to increase the service life of the tool used.

This is because the oil can lower the temperature of the cutting edge.

Drill selection

Quite widespread are twist drills, which are represented by a vertical rod with two grooves. Due to the specific arrangement of the grooves, a cutting edge is formed. Among the features of the choice, we note the following points:

1. Quite a wide distribution was received by a victorious drill. It can be used to work with various hardened alloys. However, a surface with too high hardness cannot be machined with such a tool.
2. The choice is also made according to the diameter. It should be borne in mind that getting a large diameter hole is quite difficult. The larger diameter version is much more expensive due to the use of a large amount of material in its manufacture.
3. Attention is also paid to the angle of sharpening, the purpose of the product and the type of material used in the manufacture. For example, cobalt versions are characterized by higher resistance to high temperatures.
4. It is recommended to pay attention to products of exclusively well-known manufacturers. This is due to the fact that Chinese versions are made using low-quality materials. However, such an offer is much cheaper and can be used for short-term or one-time work.
5. When choosing a drill, you can navigate by the applied markings. It can be used to determine which materials were used in the manufacture. The diameter of the hole that can be obtained using the tool is also indicated.

In a specialized store you can find almost everything you need to carry out the work. However, the rather high cost of the product and some other points determine that some decide to make a drill on their own from improvised materials. Similar work can be carried out with the required tools.

Making a homemade drill

If necessary, it is possible to manufacture a drill from hardened steel. Among the main recommendations for carrying out such work, we note:

1. Rods are selected, which are made of tungsten and cobalt alloys. In the people, such a metal is called victorious. Compared to a conventional drill, this version is characterized by increased wear resistance.
2. To process the workpiece, you need to fix it in a small vise. Otherwise, the work will be quite difficult.
3. To sharpen such a surface, a diamond stone is required. Ordinary will not withstand long-term work.
4. The end surface is sharpened in such a way that a surface resembling a flat screwdriver is obtained. After that, the cutting edges are sharpened to obtain a sharp tip.

In order to reduce the degree of surface machinability, oil is added. This ensures long-term processing due to the reduction of the friction force and the decrease in temperature.

In conclusion, we note that the processing of hardened steel should be carried out exclusively with the use of special tools. A drilling machine is required for work, since a manual one will not allow you to get the required hole.