How to create a beautiful chess table with your own hands?! Chess Table (1) How to make a chessboard table

Unusual? Yes. Elegantly? Yes. Conveniently? Yes. Thanks to the new design with shelves for figures, you can not only enjoy the ancient game at the table, but also hold chess tournaments in front of the audience.

Starting with cells

1. From 6mm birch plywood, cut four 83x610mm blanks for dark cells BUT and six blanks with dimensions of 51 × 610 mm for light cells B (Fig. 1).

Note. We chose birch plywood due to its lack of voids and relatively thick face veneer, which allows for small chamfers on the edges of the cages.

2. Glue together two pieces of 19mm MDF board, 152x152 and 64x152mm, to make an L-shaped stop-stop (photo A). Fasten this stop with a clamp in front of the saw blade and adjust its position using a blank for light cells. AT to saw off pieces 51 mm long. Then make 32 dark cells BUT 51 mm long. Use the rest of the blank for dark cells as a template for a new stop-stop setting. In the same way, cut out 32 light cells B 83 mm long.

With the light-cell blank B placed next to the saw blade, adjust the rip fence so that the off-cut stop rests against the blank as shown at left. Fix the rip fence and saw off 32 pieces from the blank for dark cells A, placing its end against the limit stop, as shown on the right.

3. Make small chamfers on the front side of all cells A, B using a sanding block or small planer. Then proceed to tinting dark cells (see section "").

Mark the playing field

Press cells A, B one at a time, using a separate clamp for each of them. A piece of MDF board, fixed with clamps parallel to the edge of the backdrop C, will help to align them.

1. To determine the width of the heel With, dock in one row four dark and four light cells A, B, measure the row length and add 12 mm. Cut a backdrop from a 6mm MDF board With specified dimensions (Fig. 1). Draw lines parallel to one short and two long edges, 6 mm away from them, to indicate the boundaries of the playing field. Glue the first row of checkerboards along the top edge of the backdrop, starting with the lighter checkered area in the top left corner. (photo C).

2. Cut out seven 6mm shelf planks from walnut boards. D. Glue the edge of one shelf to the backdrop C close to the first row of cells A, B (Fig. 1).

Carefully install the clamping device so that cells A, B do not move, and, squeezing its ends with clamps, leave it until the glue dries.

The dimensions of cells A, B and shelves D may differ from those indicated, so the position of shelf G may change. Mark it on the walls of the case after assembling the playing field A-D.

3. To glue the next row of cells in place A, B, make a clamp by gluing two 38x76x457 mm bars with a 12 mm spacer at one end (a photoD). Continue gluing cages and shelves D to the back With until the completion of the assembly of the playing field. Note. Apply the adhesive in a thin layer to avoid squeezingsurplus, due to which the clamp can stick to the cells.

Checkerboard framing

1. From 12 mm walnut boards, cut out the side walls according to the indicated dimensions. E, top bottom F, shelf G, cornice H, base I and false panel J. Select a 6 mm deep groove on the inside of the sidewalls, top and bottom to insert the heel counter With (fig. 1 and 2). Then cut 12mm seams along the ends of the side walls.

2. Insert the game board A-D into the side wall tongue E by aligning the top row of cells A, B with a shoulder of the top fold. Mark the position of the shelf G (photo E). Saw out grooves in both side walls for inserting a shelf.

3. Dry (without glue) reassemble the body to check all the parts surrounding the playing field and adjust them if necessary. If the dry assembly is successful, apply glue and fix the body with clamps.

Brief advice! DTo glue the case, you will need a lot of clamps, so it is advisable to divide this operation into stages: first, glue a shelf and a game board to the side walls.first margin, and then reattach the top and bottom.

Add a figure box

1. Saw the side walls out of 6 mm walnut planks To, anterior and posterior walls L and bottom M (Fig. 3). Make 3mm tongues and grooves in the sides of the box (Fig. 3 and 3a, photoF). Then saw out 3 mm folds along the ends of the front and back walls, as well as around the perimeter of the bottom. After assembling the box dry, check the connections of the parts, then glue and fix with clamps.

2. When the glue is dry, tilt the saw blade 35° and file the back of the box from the top (Fig. 3a). With the saw blade upright again, take the sawn-out fall panel J and make a cross cut in the middle with a depth of 3 mm (Fig. 3). Glue the false panel to the front wall L.

Wrap the drill with a piece of masking tape, stepping back from the tip 19 mm. When the flag touches the board, the required hole depth will be reached.

With one setting of the sawing machine, it is possible to cut not only the tongues in all the walls of the box K, L, but also the grooves in the side walls K.

3. Insert the drawers into the case A-G and drill holes for the axle pins to be installed later. To make the box rotate freely, place a 1.5-2.0 mm thick gasket under it (we used a steel ruler) and fix one side of it with small wedges. Using a 6mm center point drill, make a hole 19mm deep (Fig. 4, photoG). Then make the same hole on the other side. Drill 3mm holes in bezel J to install push button knobs (Fig. 3).

Add decorative details

1. Mill 10 mm radius fillets along the ends and front edge of the eaves H. Glue it on top to the body, aligning the side overhangs (Fig. 1). Mill 10 mm fillets on the outer edges of the base I and glue it to the bottom of the case.

2. Make two mounting strips N, sawing a piece of board measuring 19x152x406 mm lengthwise at an angle of 45 °. Glue one of the strips to the back (Fig. 2).

3. Spray on a colorless finish (we used a semi-gloss nitro lacquer), and after drying, install the push-buttons.

Brief advice! Before installing brass axle pins, insert wooden dowels in their place and make sure that the box rotates freely.

Prepare two 19mm brass pins with a diameter of 6mm and insert them through the holes in the walls E into the axial holes of the box J-M. Finally, fix the remaining mounting plate to the wall N to hang your game board, arrange chess pieces (no more than 76mm high) and invite your opponents to the tournament!

How to make chess cells dark

To achieve a deep and rich dark color on light woods such as birch or maple without obscuring the texture, use a combination of stain and stain. Here is how we stained the dark A cells: Using a foam brush or cloth, water-soluble Cuban mahogany aniline dye was liberally applied, allowed to soak in, and then wiped off excess liquid. Water causes lint to rise on the wood, so after drying, we lightly sanded the parts with #320 sandpaper before applying the stain again. A few hours later, when the surface of the parts was completely dry, the stain-gel was applied liberally with a tissue swab, allowed to soak for several minutes, and then wiped off the excess and left to dry overnight.

Chess is one of my favorite board games! But this intellectual game will be even more interesting if it takes place on the surface of a high-quality and beautiful chess table! Most often, the body of the table, for playing chess, is made of walnut wood. The walls of the front drawers of the table are edged with walnut veneer, but their side walls are made of oak, and the bottom is made of plane tree. The chessboard itself on the top of the table is created from squares of white plane tree wood, as well as dark rosewood. Between these squares, special black inserts are inserted. But the side walls of the box are decorated with plane tree inserts. After the final polishing, all four types of wood organically complement each other. The result of such painstaking work is a very beautiful chess table!
Direct work process
First stage. Frame assembly process
The frames that surround the two drawers of the table are assembled on half-wood joints, which are cut out by hand or by a router with a homemade fixture. After that, the assembled frames are attached in the folds that are created at the ends of the side walls. Then, when all four parts are assembled, you will need to make sure that a rectangular box has formed. Before the process of gluing parts on the side walls, approximately at a height of 4 millimeters from their lower edges, it is necessary to make grooves 6 millimeters wide for the plywood bottom. Also, before assembly, in the side walls of the box, you need to mill grooves for plantain inlay strips.
When choosing long grooves for inlay inserts, you will need to accurately set the ruler and cutter. Short grooves must be milled along a ruler pressed against the wall. The depth of the grooves should be such that the inserts can protrude slightly above the surface of the side walls, and also to be able to clean them flush with sandpaper. Before attaching the inserts, their ends will need to be cut at right angles with a small, sharp chisel. After all the details and the bottom are prepared, you will need to glue the box and pull it together with clamps. Then you need to measure the diagonals and check the correctness of the assembly. After that, you need to leave the whole structure to dry.
Second phase. moldings
While the glue dries, you will need to make the moldings of the box and the chessboard. For this purpose, it is necessary to use two small cutters, namely a rounding one and a “gooseneck” (that is, an S-shaped one).
Table cover molding is created with the same cutters. But at the same time, its edge is rounded off with a small hand planer and a skin. Also, before sawing the parts of the molding “by the mustache”, it will be necessary to insert a narrow inlay bar into it.
Having created the moldings, it will be necessary to saw off the length of the four parts that frame the box. And before gluing in place, you need to file their ends “on the mustache”. While the glue has not yet hardened, it will be necessary to remove all excess of it, otherwise they will interfere with future polishing at the final stage of work!
Third stage. The process of manufacturing and installing boxes
The drawers of the chess table are created using a dovetail cutting tool. The front wall of the box is made of walnut wood with a “corolla”, walnut plywood. But the side walls are made of oak wood. After that, the base of sycamore wood is attached to small grooves made in all walls.
As the main decoration, as well as to protect the veneer, a small rim will need to be glued around the entire perimeter of the front wall. It will be a planed narrow strip, 4 mm thick, made of walnut wood.
Before sticking it in place, in a small miter box, the side will need to be sawed down “on the mustache”, and the edge of the edging will need to be cut under it with a chisel or a sharp knife.
Drawers can be pushed into openings on both sides of the box. That is, they will "walk" on oak sleds, which are glued to the plywood bottom and planed flush with the upper ribs of the lower lintels of the box frames.
After the boxes are in place, you will need to glue their guide, namely a 6 mm oak plank. Also, in order for the front walls of the drawers to be flush with the frames, you need to attach the limiters!
Fourth stage. Table top - chessboard
The chessboard is created from 50mm squares of sycamore and rosewood wood. These squares are glued onto 6 mm plywood with dimensions of 430 * 430 mm. Before sawing into squares, it is necessary to plan the strips of sycamore and rosewood to a width of 50 millimeters, and then need to be planed to a thickness of 3 millimeters. After that, it will be necessary to glue all the squares. Then, using an inlay cutter, you need to create all the grooves in the same direction. Each pass must be created exactly on the ruler! And even though the grooves are only 2 millimeters deep, it is best to create them in two passes.
The black inlay inserts need to be attached with adhesive to be applied to the bottom edge. Otherwise, excess glue will be squeezed out and thereby ruin the surrounding wood. This job is best done with a wallpaper roller! After the glue is completely dry, using sanding along the fiber, it will be necessary to sand the inserts flush with the sandpaper.
During the sanding of the inserts, very fine dust will be generated, which can very easily pollute the wood of the white sycamore! In order to avoid this, before creating the grooves, parts of the plane tree will need to be covered with two or three layers of shellac polish.
After the inserts have been ground in one direction, the same procedure will need to be repeated with the inserts that go in the other direction. At the intersection of the planks, the joints will need to be processed very carefully!
Having created a complete chessboard, it can also be polished. This is easiest to do before you start gluing the edging in place.
When the glue is completely dry, the plywood base can lead a little! In order to prevent this, two oak planks will need to be attached to the underside of the chessboard, using glue and screws. These planks should be placed in such a way that the screws screwed into the plywood protrude from the inside of the side walls of the box. If they are precisely planed to the thickness of the upper lintels of the frames, then they will serve as bumpers that will not allow the boxes to fall out in the open position.
The right front square above the drawer should be white. This will determine the direction of the fenders under the board. Having fully assembled the lid with the board, you will need to saw off the edging elements along the length, and then glue them in place.
Fifth stage. Finishing process
The created chess table must be covered with a mixture of 50/50 linseed oil with turpentine. Apply this mixture with a swab. This mixture will give a slight browning to the nut, but will not affect the inlay!
After the applied mixture is completely dry, with a brush, three layers of pale polish will need to be applied to the table. Then you need to sand the surface between layers. The last layer is polished with a grinder. After that, when the polishing is fully completed, the cover will need to be glued to the side walls. Then, in the corners, you need to attach brass legs. After that, the entire created table will need to be waxed and also polished to a matte finish!

Everything, a beautiful chess table is completely ready!
Good luck!

Do-it-yourself chess table, drawing of a chess table.

Drawing of a chess table


Table manufacturing sequence
To make a table, select the material - chipboard, glued under a tree. There are no original dimensions in the drawings - they are taken from the table (see above).
The easiest way to make a chessboard is from plywood. Thoroughly clean the front surface with sandpaper and break it into 35x35 mm squares. Fill black cells with ink. Make sure that the ink is absorbed evenly and there are no smudges. Then cover the board with 2-3 layers of colorless varnish.
From the bottom to the board with small nails, nail two slats - they will fix it in the niche of the table.
Compartments for figures are assembled from support rails. To prevent the figures from being mixed, block them with transverse rails made of wood or foam.
For the manufacture of chess pieces, select solid wood, oak or beech. On a lathe, turn rods with a diameter of 25 mm. blanks with a sharp knife, the view shown in the figure. It remains to cover the black figures with ink or black varnish, and then 23 layers of colorless varnish.
Chess pieces, drawings of chess pieces, patterns of chess pieces.


Such chess pieces can be made from plywood by sawing with a jigsaw and varnished. To do this, print out the templates for chess pieces, transfer the pattern to plywood and cut along the contour.
To print the drawing of the table and chess templates, right-click on the image, then "open image", after "save image".
And here is a drawing of a simple table, you can do it yourself.
Do-it-yourself chessboard, drawing, sequence of making a chessboard, drawing of a chessboard.


The sequence of making a chessboard
In order to make a chessboard with your own hands, you will need:
1 piece of dark veneer (mahogany or walnut) measuring 380x230 mm;
1 piece of light veneer (aphid poplar maple veneer) also 380x230 mm in size;
1 piece of plywood or board measuring 500x500 mm, 12 mm thick;
edging matching in color: slats with a section of 25x19 mm, 2700 mm long, 12 nails without hats (38 mm), hammer, knife, mallet, steel ruler, cutting board, sandpaper, contact adhesive for veneer, gummed tape.
Press the ruler against the guides on the veneer. Cut five strips of the same color 45 mm wide and 380 mm long. (see picture). Fasten the glazing beads of different colors with gum tape, cut strips consisting of squares. Fasten these strips with gum tape so that there are 8 squares on each side. The four remaining strips will be useful for edging the board. plywood), starting from one end.
Using a mallet, smooth the surface of the glued set through the plywood foxes.
Glue and nail the strips to the edges of the plywood board. Glue the edging strips with gummed tape. Lay them overlap at the corners of the board and cut at an angle of 45 °.
Treat the surface along the grain with sandpaper, after cutting off the protruding edges of the veneer along the edges of the board.

Introduction

Project formulation and analysis

Information sheet

Marketing research

Search for alternative project options

Product appearance

Material used

Finish options

Economic evaluation of the product

Design part

Technical drawing of a chess table

Technological part

Safety

Routing

Analysis of project work

Finished product evaluation

Literature

Substantiation of the project idea

I have a friendly family. My father and mother are teachers at the Yasnaya Polyana Gymnasium, where I study. Our family spends a lot of time together: we relax, read, talk, play chess, receive guests, make crafts and improve our house together. My dad is a first-class carpenter, he constantly creates interesting things from wood with his own hands: souvenirs, pieces of furniture (benches, shelves, stools, etc.). These things give our home comfort and individuality. I really wanted to learn this skill too. In technology lessons, we have already learned how to create simple wood crafts. And I had an idea.

Our family loves to play chess very much, we have several chess boards, we usually sit somewhere on the sofa or at the table, but there is no special chess table. My idea is to make such a table out of oak myself. The knowledge and skills gained in technology lessons will be quite enough for me to implement my idea. Moreover, quite recently, my classmates and I made oak benches for elementary school students in our gymnasium at technology lessons.

Information sheet

There are hundreds of the most ordinary things around us, about which we know almost nothing. Only the most inquisitive and inquisitive things can tell their story. And for this, very little is needed: you just need to think, ask, find. Every thing, like a person, has its own biography, its own amazing fate. And every thing carries a piece of our history. Life will be interesting and not boring if we ask as many questions as possible and look for answers to them. Even if you learn something new every day, the questions will not disappear. On the contrary, there will be more and more of them.

Table history

The table was the first furniture that ancient people acquired.

In ancient Rome, the table was the most important decoration of the house. Heavy, made of marble or wood, decorated with carvings, it rested on low legs, similar to lion's paws. Around the table, reclining on the floor on soft pillows, rich Romans feasted. There were no chairs back then.

And among the ancient Greeks, on the contrary, the tables were very small, on three legs. Such a table was called a meal, so a festive dinner, a feast is sometimes called a meal. A table - a meal during a feast was attached to a bed - a low sofa with a headboard. After the end of the feast, the table was pushed under the bed.

In Russia, in the old days, tables were made wide, stable, on four legs. He was placed in the "red corner" - the most honorable place in the house. The table was moved to benches - benches that stood along the walls. The table top - the tabletop - in rich houses was covered with a tablecloth, and in poor houses it was scraped and washed clean.

Chess

Chess (from Persian shah - sovereign and Arabic mat - died) is a game rich in elements of wrestling, scientific thinking and artistic creativity. The game of chess takes place on a square board, states of 64 fields, colored and alternating in light and dark colors; on the right and the player should be a bright field. Each of the two partners has 8 main pieces (king, queen, 2 rooks, 2 knights, 2 bishops) placed in their initial position on the extreme horizontal row of the board, and 8 pawns lining up in front of them. Moves are made in turn; the goal of the game is to checkmate the enemy king, that is, to attack him in such a way that there is no defense against this attack. If one side does not have a single possible move and the king is not in check (i.e., under attack), then a stalemate is obtained and the game is considered to end in a draw.

Chess originated in the East, apparently in India, in ancient times. The first mention of chess (the so-called. chat rank ) in India dates back to the 6th c. At first, the game was slow, the pieces were mostly inactive. As we moved from East to West, chess underwent changes. Over time, the queen and the layers acquired range, the pawns began to move (from the initial position) not only one, but another two squares forward.

The first mention of chess in Russia dates back to the 13th century. (in the Pilot's Book), but they were known, apparently, already in the 11th century. (based on archaeological excavations in Novgorod).

The centers of chess life in the cities of Europe in the 18th century. and partly in the 19th century. there were coffee houses, later chess clubs. In Russia, interest in chess was shown by A. S. Pushkin, N. G. Chernyshevsky, I. S. Turgenev, L. N. Tolstoy.

The chess club was first opened in St. Petersburg (1853). Later the clubs united into societies and national unions.

Yasnaya Polyana

In 2008, the 180th anniversary of the birth of the great Russian writer of classical literature and our countryman, Leo Tolstoy, was celebrated.

Yasnaya Polyana is known throughout the world as a monument to the immortal glory of the genius of Russian classics Leo Tolstoy. For the writer, Yasnaya Polyana was not only a place of life, but a creative laboratory.

In 1921, by the Decree of the All-Russian Central Executive Committee, Yasnaya Polyana was turned into a museum-reserve.

During the Great Patriotic War, the Nazis managed to capture Yasnaya Polyana. For a month and a half of occupation, they managed to plunder and ruin the estate. The Nazis set fire to Tolstoy's house.

Soviet troops liberated Yasnaya Polyana on December 14, 1941. Already in May 1942, Tolstoy's house was opened to visitors.

At present, the museum-estate of L.N. Tolstoy "Yasnaya Polyana" is one of the largest memorial museums in the world. It is a complex complex consisting of Tolstoy's house, Volkonsky's house, a literary museum, an estate, which houses forests of extraordinary beauty, meadows, parks, gardens, buildings that have survived from the time of L.N. Tolstoy and his family.

Many years later, the museum-estate was headed by a descendant of the writer - the great-grandson of V. I. Tolstoy. With his arrival, an even greater transformation of the memorial began.

Not far from the museum, on the former Kubatskaya Gora, there is a white two-story building of the Yasnaya Polyana Gymnasium No. 2 named after L.N. Tolstoy, where I was lucky to study. It was built in 1928, when the whole world celebrated the centenary of the birth of Lev Nikolayevich. In 2008, the memorial gymnasium celebrated its 80th anniversary.

Marketing research

I analyzed the problems that buyers face when purchasing home furniture items in the goods market and found:

Furniture made from laminated chipboard is distinguished by a variety of models, affordable prices, but less original and durable,

Furniture made of natural wood is much less common on the market, it is highly durable and reliable, but unfortunately it has a high price, and this is practically inaccessible to families with an average income.

If we talk specifically about a coffee or chess table, then the price for it fluctuates: from laminated chipboard from 3-5 thousand rubles, and from oak - from 7 to 12 thousand rubles.

Search for alternative project options

Starting to develop the project, I consulted with the technology teacher Alexander Valentinovich. Together we defined the design requirements:

Environmental friendliness

Color solution

Preparation time

Unity of style

Availability of materials

There are various options for implementing my idea.

Idea 1 – round chess table on one leg.

Idea 2 – square chess table with four legs.

Idea 3 – chess table on one leg.

Perhaps I will focus on idea 3. I think that a square-shaped chess table will allow you to conveniently place the chess field on the surface of the tabletop, and one leg will allow players and fans to comfortably fit around the table - it will be very convenient. On both sides, I will add a little free field in order to make it convenient to arrange the “eaten” chess pieces.

Product appearance

Material used

For the manufacture of a chess table, I choose a natural tree - oak.

Consider the positive and negative aspects of this material: it is durable, looks beautiful in the product, but it is difficult to process with cutting tools, there are defects - knots, oblique, cracks, wormholes.

Finish options

There are various options for finishing wood products. I choose - staining the table with stain and varnishing.

Economic evaluation of the product

In the manufacture of table parts you will need:

pine board thickness. 45 mm 0.5 sq.m. ,

oak board thickness. 30 mm 0.3 sq.m,

oak logs (firewood) - price 500 rubles / cubic meter

The price of 1 sq.m of board 45 mm is 500 rubles (pine). The price of 1 sq.m of oak board 30 mm is 700 rubles. The cost of the required pine material can be calculated as follows:

C1 \u003d 0.5x500 \u003d 250 rubles.

The cost of material from an oak board:

C2 \u003d 0.3x700 \u003d 210 rubles.

Baluster cost:

C3 \u003d 0.02x500 \u003d 10 rubles.

Total wood cost:

C \u003d C1 + C2 + C3 \u003d 250 + 210 + 10 \u003d 470 rubles.

To cover the product, you need 100 g of stain or 0.1 kg. The price of 1 kg of stain is 120 rubles. Mortar cost:

C \u003d 0.1x120 \u003d 12 rubles.

To cover the product with varnish, 0.3 kg of varnish is needed. The price of 1 kg of varnish is 200 rubles. Lacquer price:

C \u003d 0.3x200 \u003d 60 rubles.

For gluing the countertop, 0.1 kg of wood glue is required. Glue price - 200 rubles. glue cost:

C \u003d 0.1x200 \u003d 20 rubles.

Table manufacturing time under artificial lighting - 6 hours. The power of the lamps in the workshop is 6x100W=600W=0.6kW. Lighting cost:

C \u003d 0.1x6x0.93 \u003d 0.558 \u003d 60 kopecks.

The total costs were:

С=470+12+60+20+0.6=RUB 562.6 .

Safety

when working on a wood lathe

Hazards at work

1. Injury to the eyes from flying chips.

2. Injury to the hands when they touch the workpiece.

3. Injury to the hands due to improper handling of the cutter.

4. Wounded by fragments of poorly glued, cross-layered, knotted wood.

Before work

1. Correctly put on overalls (an apron with sleeves or a dressing gown and a headdress: beret or scarf).

2. Check up reliability of fastening of a protective casing of a belt drive.

3. Check the reliability of the protective grounding (zeroing) fastening to the machine body.

4. Remove all foreign objects from the machine, place the tools in their designated places.

5. Check for knots and cracks in the workpiece, dress the workpiece to the desired shape, and then securely fix it in the rotating centers on the machine.

6. Install a tool rest with a gap of 2-3mm from the workpiece and fix it at the height of the center line of the workpiece.

7. Check the serviceability of the cutting tool and the correctness of its sharpening.

8. Check the operation of the machine at idle, as well as the serviceability of the starting box by turning its buttons on and off.

9. Put on protective goggles before starting work.

During work

1. Feed the cutting tool into the material only after the work shaft has reached full speed.

2. Feed the tool smoothly, without strong pressure.

3. Timely move the handpiece to the workpiece, do not allow the gap to increase.

4. To avoid injury while operating the machine:

a) do not tilt your head close to the machine;

b) do not accept or transfer items through a running machine;

c) measure the workpiece only after its rotation has completely stopped;

d) do not stop the machine by braking the workpiece by hand;

e) do not leave the machine without turning it off.

After finishing work

1. Stop the machine.

2. Put the tools in their places.

3. Remove chips from the machine with a brush. Do not blow off chips with your mouth, do not sweep them with your hand.

4. Hand over the machine to the teacher.

5. Clean yourself up.

Routing

Finished product evaluation

Positive aspects of the project:

Project goal achieved

Minimum financial costs

A piece of furniture made by hand is pleasing to the eye and uplifting

All technological operations are available

Allows the use of production waste

original design

Opens up huge opportunities for the development of my creativity

Eco-friendly material used

originality

Negative sides:

A lot of time spent on preparation and implementation of the project

Need adult help to make product

Such a carpentry product as a chess table can be made independently. At the same time, it will not be necessary to use it for its intended purpose, since this original hand-made chess table will perfectly decorate any of the rooms in your house. In the process of creating this decorative piece of furniture, it will be possible to learn how to correctly assemble a surface divided into uniform squares of different colors by using multi-colored veneer plates.

The original chess table will be an excellent interior decoration.

As a material with which it will be possible to successfully build, you should use:

Such a home-made sliding chess table, at which you can simultaneously play chess and drink tea, can be made independently according to the scheme.

• etmoya plates, the thickness of which will be about 3 mm. As for the dimensions, they should be enough to get 32 ​​squares of 4 × 4 square meters. cm;
• plates of ebony, again no more than 3 mm thick, in an amount sufficient to obtain 32 squares, each of which has an area of ​​\u200b\u200b4 × 4 square meters. cm;
• Erable plates, the thickness of which is about 3 mm. Its size should be sufficient to obtain 4 rectangles, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich is 11.5 × 56 square meters. cm;
• residual material is not thrown away, since its quantity will be sufficient for the manufacture of molds from thin strips;
• melamine plastic sheet with an area of ​​about 1 sq. m;
• 4 strips 8 mm wide and 70 cm long, which will be needed for inlay;
• plywood sheet 3 mm thick;
• board or sheet of fiberboard, the thickness of which is 19 mm,
• a pair of squares whose area is 52.2 square meters. cm;
• 4 rectangles whose area is 10x56 cm;
• 4 pine bars, 6.2 x1, 5x52, 2 cm in size, which will be used to make braces;
• 6 pine slats, the dimensions of which are 3x0.8x80 cm;
• 4 details of ebony, dimensions 4x4x7 cm;
• etymoya boards, from which it will be possible to make 2 boxes;
• 4 mm plywood sheets in the amount of 2 pieces, with an area of ​​​​18.6 x26.3 cm each. With their help, the bottoms of the boxes will be created;

How to make a chess table yourself?

In the process of designing such a piece of furniture, it is necessary to be guided by strict drawing data, so that unnecessary errors in calculations and installation can be avoided. The first step is to choose what kind of outer surface you want for your chess table. Prepare 2 types of plates from which the surface of the chessboard will be divided into squares. One of the plates should be made from dark etymoya wood and the other from light wood.

The thickness of the plates is approximately 3 mm, and it is important to pay attention to the fact that they do not have any defects on their surface.

The table shows the dimensions of the blanks and the material for the manufacture of the table.

In order to get wide checkerboard strips equal to 4 cm, it will be necessary to cut out the corresponding plates with an iron saw taken from a planer and ruler. It will be possible to use bars 4 cm wide as reliable guides. To accurately perform this operation, it is recommended to fix the plate and the ruler on the workbench with two joiner clamps. After obtaining strips of both colors with a width of 4 cm, it remains to cut out squares of 4x4 cm from them. To do this, you can use a sharp blade, without teeth, and a form made of chipboard, the cut area in which will slightly exceed 4 square meters. cm.

This form is placed on top of the strips, and the plates are cut into squares using a blade and a hammer. As a result, you will quickly and relatively easily get the correct squares for a chessboard with clean cuts and without any burrs and bumps.

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Laying out the cells in a checkerboard pattern and creating a board for the table with your own hands

Places on the board that should be light are sealed with masking tape, and then paint is applied. After drying, the adhesive tape can be removed.

Having received exactly 64 squares, 32 light and dark colors each, you must arrange them, as required by the rules of the game, in a checkerboard pattern. To do this, you should take a melamine plastic panel as a base plate, on the surface of which strips of adhesive paper are fixed, so that, in turn, you can fix the squares one by one on them, photo 2. It is worth paying special attention to the fact that you need to glue the squares in such a way that so that no gaps form between their sides and corners. Then proceed to decorate the edges of the created chessboard. This can be done using strips 8 mm wide, which are located along the edges of the borders of the chessboard. They need to be fixed in the same way as they did with the cells of the chessboard.

Do not forget that you need to cut the joints of the corners on the strips at an angle of 45 degrees. Before setting these boundaries completely, first try them on the board to be sure of the symmetry and uniformity of the design. After gluing these elements, you will receive the structure shown in photo 3, which will subsequently be built into the table.

1 - general view of a table with plank legs; 2 - turned legs; 3 - fitting plank legs to the drawers; 4 - fastening of the longitudinal side; 5 - fastening of the lower longitudinal side; 6 - drawer

The main parts of the table will be a 10 cm thick support panel, 4 end surfaces on which the table legs will rest, 2 legs and one connecting part. It will be convenient to make them from fiberboard, the thickness of which is 19 mm. In order to cut out the details for the table with your own hands as even and beautiful as possible, it is better to first create templates, according to which the legs and other parts of the table will be cut out with your own hands. Since the legs and transverse parts of the table are symmetrical, the templates can be made half, according to which markings are already made on the finishing material, and then they are cut out on a workbench using an electric band saw. Then proceed to create a platform, the thickness of which is 10 cm. This can be done by taking 2 chipboard panels with a thickness of 19 mm and an area of ​​​​52.5x52.5 cm, which will become components of the support. To increase its thickness to 10 cm, it will be necessary to use 4 more pine bars with dimensions of 6.2 x1.5 cm and a length of 52.2 cm, which are installed between 2 panels, connecting them with nails. The edges of the resulting box are closed with plates cut from fiberboard.