Planting seedlings of fruit trees. When to plant fruit trees. Benefits of spring tree planting

Tomatoes come from Peru, where the climate is very hot and dry. How to provide native conditions for tomatoes in our climate? For example, they grow in my open field, and the summer is cool, and it rains very often. At the same time, I want the bush to bear fruit until autumn, and give fruits, as they write on a bag of seeds - 10 kg per bush. In order to provide this southerner with comfortable conditions and, accordingly, a large harvest for himself, you need to be able to properly form a bush.

Quite often, gardeners want to get their favorite plants at no extra cost. The first thing that comes to mind in such cases is cuttings. And if you are a beginner or "lazy" gardener? Or do you come to your summer cottage only on weekends, and even then every other time, and still want to relax there? Then the idea with cuttings may not succeed. Why not let nature do almost all the work for us - propagate our favorite plants with layering?

My strawberry beds have been around for ten years. I, of course, update the bushes. Earlier, when May and June were dry, I took two buckets of delicious berries and another half a bucket of berries covered with gray mold from my “plantation”. If the beginning of the summer was rainy, then I got two buckets of gray rot and only half a bucket of ripe strawberries. It's a shame to share the harvest with some rot! I launched an attack on this bastard. So, step by step - why my strawberries never get gray rot.

Date biscuit muffins are incredibly delicious, slightly crunchy on the outside, tender on the inside, and the sweet date in this pastry becomes like chocolate. This simple dessert for tea is very easy to prepare in 30 minutes (along with pastries), it is only important to plan everything correctly, so follow my recommendations. To work, you will need silicone, metal or paper molds for cupcakes, since the dough for these biscuits is fluid, and without a mold it spreads.

In the middle lane, July has traditionally always been the hottest month of the year, but recently this is far from always the case. Sometimes May is hotter than July, and sometimes even September. But many plants traditionally open their flowers in July. And even with not the warmest weather, July is the most colorful and colorful month in the garden. In the middle of summer, almost all annual flowers traditionally bloom, including those sown in open ground.

For the vast majority of my acquaintances, the idea of ​​“not digging” sounds completely outlandish. Yes, it’s a sin to hide it, my husband (also of the old agrotechnical hardening) looks with pain at the undug beds. Although everything grows and bears fruit well on them. Therefore, in the spring, I allow him to dig something up so as not to radically break his worldview. We gradually get used to it: abrupt changes in habits are not for everyone. I will share my experience of farming "without a shovel".

Cucumber salad with onions and garlic is an excellent addition to a complex side dish or an independent vegetable appetizer for the festive table, which is very easy to prepare for the winter in large quantities. The recipe is designed for a liter jar, so it is convenient to harvest and store vegetables in a small kitchen in a city apartment. This sweet and sour pickled cucumber salad is stored at room temperature away from heaters in a dark and dry place.

Alyssum is one of the easiest cushion garden plants to grow. And for sure - one of the most fragrant. A charming honey cloud over the lace of alyssums can be enjoyed not only in parks and gardens. After all, even those who do not have their own garden can grow alyssums at home - and not only on balconies. Slightly changing its character, alyssum, however, remains a non-capricious and rather hardy plant. But you still have to take care of him carefully.

Vermicelli casserole with sausages and green beans is a great idea for breakfast or dinner. The dish turns out to be satisfying, energize in the morning or replenish the calorie reserves spent in the evening. The ingredients are simple and so is the cooking process. Pasta casseroles are unsweetened - with vegetables, meat, sausages or sausage, and sweet - with dried fruits, cream and various spices. Sweet casseroles are served for dessert. This dish can be made with any type of pasta.

With mushrooms, you can cook an infinite number of not only tasty, but also nutritious dishes, mushrooms are dried and preserved for the winter. It is not surprising that, closer to autumn, amateurs and professionals of "quiet hunting" en masse go out for mushrooms to the nearest (and not so) forest. At the same time, the number of poisonings by these gifts of the forest increases sharply. How to protect yourself from trouble by going to the forest for mushrooms, and how not to become a victim of low-quality mushrooms, we will tell in the article.

As a child, I was delighted with a fairy tale where the main character cleverly hid from the chase. He stuck twigs from a bush into the ground, and a dense, impenetrable green forest immediately grew up behind him. I have been experimenting with twigs since I was four years old. So, summer cuttings are a great opportunity to get a young seedling of the desired variety. The procedure is simple, fast and almost always it is possible even for beginners. Unsuccessful cuttings are associated with an obvious neglect of its basic principles.

Strawberry jam with pectin is prepared quickly and easily. Apple pectin (pectin powder) is commercially obtained from apple pomace. Pectin is added to many familiar products - in candy fillings, ketchup, marshmallows, marshmallows and marmalade. At home, pectin is used to make jam or jam as a thickener. The addition of pectin powder can significantly reduce the cooking time, and therefore save more vitamins.

Country life is cloudless and beautiful only in the eyes of an inexperienced city dweller. Any gardener will confirm that there is an eternal battle here, we can only dream of peace. Not a flood - so drought, not cold - so hot. You will not have time to cope with another sore, as it is time to fight pests. And their darkness! But such an unpleasant comrade as a slug still needs to be looked for. A small, slippery insect, feeding on young leaves and fruits, causes great harm.

No matter how modest a country or personal plot is, there is always a place for cucumbers. Experienced housewives will definitely choose the time to spin a few jars of their cucumbers for the winter. Moreover, with minimal care and observance of agricultural technology, you can grow an excellent crop. At the same time, only organic fertilizers can be used as dressings. What they are, how to cook them at home and correctly apply, you will learn from this article.

Pelargonium "Pinto Scarlet Star F1" is distinguished by early and abundant flowering, has large flowers with a gradient color from coral along the edges to white in the center, which look very beautiful against the background of emerald leaves. Pelargonium pleases the eye for a very long time: growers note that flowering continues until the very cold. High (up to 40 cm) bushes are suitable for planting in flower beds, flowerpots and balcony boxes.

September is the month when you can plant seedlings or transplant young barren trees.

When to plant trees?

It is believed that planting seedlings in early autumn, in early October, is better than spring planting due to warm ground and still stable warm weather.

However, it has its own characteristics, for example, seedlings of pear, plums, cherries and cherries can freeze slightly in winter, so these.

In the spring, seedlings of stone fruits are planted, then pears and then apple trees.

How to choose a seedling

Buy seedlings from nurseries in your area so that they are already adapted to your climate. Try not to buy seedlings at bazaars, since in this case the planting material does not pass any examinations.

The stem of the tree is even, without branches and leaves, without signs of disease (influx of root cancer) and damage. The length of the roots is at least 25-30 cm. There should be no root growth from the stock. Crown of a seedling of 3 branches. There may be fewer branches if these are annual seedlings or low-branching species of plums and cherries.

How to prepare a planting hole for a seedling

To plant a seedling, you need a pit with sheer walls, a depth of 70-80 cm, a diameter of 80 cm.

Drive a stake in the center of the hole - this will be a support for the future seedling.

Fill the planting hole with peat, rotted manure, complex mineral fertilizer and sand for heavy soil.

The hole for planting the seedling is filled with a layer-by-layer method, i.e. a wheelbarrow of peat, a wheelbarrow of earth, a wheelbarrow of humus and a little fertilizer - mix and fill it again with the same composition and so on until you make a mound up to 20 cm high on top,
since the soil will shrink and the mound will be halved.

This is soil shrinkage due to improper preparation of the pit.

But this mound is obligatory, otherwise, after the soil shrinks, water will constantly collect, which will give rise to rotting of the bark of the seedling.

Do not forget to form a roller around the tree so that water does not spread in all directions when watering.

Planting hole size for fruit tree seedlings

It is not recommended to apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers to already prepared planting pits, as they will have an adverse effect on the growth of the fruit tree. In the planting hole (100-60 cm), you can pour 1 kg of wood ash.

Planting pits for apple and pear trees are prepared at a distance of 6 × 6 m, and for cherries and plums at a distance of 3 × 4 m.

How to prepare a seedling for planting

Inspect and trim, if necessary, crushed, broken roots and broken branches. Try not to prune the roots too much, as with a good length of the roots, the chances of survival and further development of the tree increase.

After winter, the top of a young tree is sometimes dried up by 5-7 cm. This happens because the plant, especially planted in early autumn, was not 100% prepared for winter.

To prevent this from happening, the top of the branches is cut to mature wood - by 2-3 buds. Shorten the side branches proportionally so that they do not shade the bole.

How to plant a seedling

When planting a seedling, they are guided by the root neck.

When you have prepared a planting hole, you can start planting a seedling, provided that the air temperature is above 0 ° C. To do this, make a recess in the mound a little more than the root system of the tree. Place the seedling vertically near the stake, straighten the twisted roots.

Fill with soil so that the root neck is 5-7 cm above the ground. Compact the soil around the seedling (with your foot), especially near the trunk.

Avoid air pockets. Pour with a weak stream of water, you can use a watering can (3 buckets per tree).

Tie the seedling to the stake with soft material so that the support only supports the plant in a clearly upright position. Before frost, mulch the trunk circle with peat or spruce branches.

If after watering you see roots sticking out of the ground a little, do not be afraid, they will go into the ground and the root collar will be flush with the ground. But if the protruding roots bother you, then they can always be covered with earth.

Water every two weeks in dry stable weather.

From the wrong planting of the seedling depends on its future life.

Planted seedlings in early autumn may die in winter, why?

A possible reason is that the tree itself is not frost-resistant or the planting of the seedling was not done correctly.

For example, they deepened the root neck, so the plant gave all its strength to survive and did not have time to adapt to the winter.

The degree of fruiting also depends on the depth.

It happens that a tree grows and does not bear fruit, why?

Look at the level of the root neck, if below the soil surface, then the earth must be removed, carefully dig the tree and raise it to the desired height.

Tips for summer residents on planting seedlings:

• the distance from the seedling to the nearest building should not be less than 5 m, so that the roots do not harm the foundation, and the tree itself does not create a shadow and does not disturb the air circulation (the walls become damp and collapse);
• when planting seedlings, keep the distance between them equal to the distance between adults;
• the planting pit should be large cylindrical in shape for the normal development of the seedling, the uniform distribution of water during irrigation and nutrients during top dressing;
• after digging a planting hole, loosen the bottom with a pitchfork for easier rooting of the roots deep into the soil;
• you need to plant a seedling strictly vertically, so it is best to do this with an assistant;
• in the center, install a stake in the landing pit from the side where the wind blows more often;
• in the near-trunk circle, make an earthen roller, which, during irrigation, will not allow water to spread;
• distribute tree planting in tiers for maximum distribution of sunlight. Peach, apricot, cherry and grapes are best planted on the south side, closer to the walls of the house (white), which will be an additional reflection of heat. An apple tree can be planted on the north side;
• You can harvest the first crop from a tree faster as follows: in early August, when the shoots have not yet had time to become lignified, bend 1/3 of their length into a ring at a distance of 50 cm from each other and tie it up. Bend towards good lighting. In the spring of next year, untie the shoots. This method accelerates the laying of fruit buds and increases the winter hardiness of the tree.

Many experienced gardeners plant fruit trees with equal success in autumn and spring. True, it is believed that the autumn planting of fruit trees is suitable mainly for the southern regions, for Siberia and the Urals (there, freshly planted plants are protected from severe winter frosts by a solid snow cover). For the northern and central regions, spring planting is more suitable - in extreme cases, the boles of seedlings are strengthened, hilling them for the upcoming winter.

When to plant?

The main rule of landing is that it should be carried out during the rest period. In the spring - this is the time from thawing the soil to the start of active sap flow, in the fall - after leaf fall, in preparation for winter sleep. The second dormant period lasts longer, and this is already a point in favor of the autumn planting.

In the spring - this is the time from thawing the soil to the start of active sap flow, in the fall - after leaf fall, in preparation for winter sleep

But usually the choice of gardeners is influenced by the fact that in autumn the range of seedlings offered by nurseries is much richer than in spring, and prices are usually more attractive. And it makes little sense to buy seedlings in the fall and leave them in the pit until spring - the climate has been unpredictable in recent years, and abnormally warm and abnormally cold winters can become fatal for such a wintering.

toliam1 FORUMHOUSE Consultant

Both I and my clients plant everything only in the fall. The winter is far away, the seedlings have time to get used to the ground, in a warm winter, the growth of roots is also possible. And in the spring immediately "to battle." When planting in the spring, one season is lost.

What to plant?

Planting trees in autumn has its own characteristics. For her, it is better to choose 1-2 year old seedlings with mature shoots - then the likelihood increases that the plant will endure the winter better. The shoots of the seedling along the entire length should be lignified, with fully formed buds.

Three-year-old seedlings are sold less often, but it’s for the better: at this age, the apple tree already has pretty decent roots, and when the plant is dug up for sale, they have to be severely cut. That is, serious wounds are inflicted on the tree, and it takes root much worse.

lulu FORUMHOUSE user

The older the apple tree, the longer and thicker its roots, the more wounds are inflicted during digging.

Zoned and winter-hardy varieties of fruit trees are suitable for autumn planting, for example, Siberian and Ural selection.

How well a plant will take root depends on the condition of the root system. Unfortunately, many have encountered the fact that plum or cherry seedlings freeze even during transportation to the country house, because their absorbent roots do not tolerate temperatures as low as +3 - +4 degrees. Unlike seedlings with ACS, seedlings with a closed root system practically do not suffer during planting (in fact, this is the same transshipment, and often plants hardly even notice it). But seedlings with ZKS must be of high quality: the root system is tightly held in a coma of earth, but does not braid it around, the seedling is not removed from the container easily and freely. It happens, unfortunately, and so, the seller does not grow a seedling in a container, but places it there before planting.

Tatuniki FORUMHOUSE user

When buying a seedling with ZKS, you should check if it grew in a pot, or if it was stuffed there before selling.

If you are not sure about the quality of such a seedling, it is better to buy a good seedling with ACS.

The optimal time for the autumn planting of a fruit tree is two, or better, three weeks before frost. Depending on the region, this may be either the end of September or the end of October. During the “rest period”, the aerial part of the tree stops growing, but the roots grow until the soil temperature is higher than +4 degrees. It turns out that if you guess with the planting date, then before the onset of frost, new trees in your garden will have time to grow absorbent roots. And this means that in the spring they will begin to grow earlier than those planted in the spring, and the traditional spring vagaries of the weather will be met already strengthened.

If the roots of the seedling have dried up, it will be necessary to hold them in water for a day before planting.

How to plant?

FORUMHOUSE user Tamara Nikolaev plants fruit according to all the rules of horticultural science: with an assistant, in well-prepared pits measuring 1.5x1.3. And on average, the dimensions of the landing pits are usually as follows:

For trees on vigorous rootstocks:
120x80 cm (apple and pear),
100x60 cm (plums and cherries).
For semi-dwarf and dwarf:
80x50 cm.
The pit for the seedling with the ZKS should be twice as large as the container.

To protect against spring waterlogging, Tamara pours 30-40 cm of expanded clay at the bottom of the pit and prepares the soil in advance:

-3 buckets of rotted manure;
- 1 bucket of "native" soil;
- 2 buckets of good vegetable soil.

Any trees can be planted in such soil, and in the first year there will be no need to feed them. When preparing the soil, we must forget the phrase "nitrogen fertilizers" - and we remember that they include chicken and other bird droppings. In general, fertilizers must be applied very carefully when planting, as they can burn the roots. You can separate them from the roots with a layer of neutral soil, or you can not make them at all - wait until the trees "come to life" and bring them into the punctures. Sometimes it is recommended to apply peat - FORUMHOUSE experts say that it acidifies the soil, therefore, before applying, it will definitely need to be deoxidized.

Landing Tamara does this: expanded clay is poured into the bottom of the pit, leveling it; on top of a third of the pit, he adds the prepared soil, compacts it, spills it with water, pours the dry soil into a mound, gently spreads the roots over it.

The root neck of the planted seedling should be located exactly at the level of the soil, not deeper and not higher. .

A board is placed on top of the pit and the level of the root neck is checked - it should be located EXACTLY at the level of the board. That is, the root collar of the planted seedling should be located exactly at the level of the soil, not deeper and not higher. .

lulu FORUMHOUSE user

Look at the place where the trunk ends and the roots begin directly. This point of transition of the trunk to the roots should be at ground level. Strictly.

If the root neck is located high, the roots will be exposed, and over time the apple tree will dry out. If you deepen it, then it will constantly get wet and rot. Such a tree will turn green and even bloom, but you will not wait for the fruits from it.

After checking the level of the root neck, the assistant fills the hole with prepared soil and compacts it, then, regardless of the weather (let the soil settle quickly), the tree is well watered, tree trunks are formed and mulched with peat.

Let's go back to the root neck again. Beginning gardeners often confuse it with grafting. There is such a gardening trick: take a damp cloth and rub it on the seedling where the root goes into the trunk. You will see a place where the brown root turns into a greenish trunk. This is exactly what this place is about.

When planting seedlings, it is important how the groundwater level is located on your site, and what is the composition of the soil. If the GWL is close, the roots of your young trees may be in the water. In principle, this can be avoided.

Fruit trees are planted in spring and autumn. Planting time depends on the climatic conditions of the area.

In most southern areas, autumn planting is preferable. Autumn in the south is long and warm. The seedlings in the nursery are finishing their growth and are ready for winter. Being planted in the garden, they take root during the autumn period, and the wounds on the roots begin to heal and form influxes (callus). Trees planted in autumn will start to grow in early spring and avoid possible drought. When planting in the spring, the trees immediately fall into arid conditions, often get sick and take root worse.

In the middle lane and northern regions, as a rule, spring planting gives the best results. There is no drought here in the spring and the trees take root easily. When planting in autumn, trees, especially stone fruits, sometimes freeze slightly or suffer from winter desiccation.

In Siberia and the Urals, in areas with sufficient snow cover, fruit trees are planted in the fall, and in areas with insufficient snow cover and the absence of early spring dry winds - in the spring.

Both in spring and autumn, trees should be planted in a state of "rest", that is, when the tree has stopped or has not yet begun to grow. In autumn, planting should be completed 25–30 days before the onset of severe and persistent frosts (in the central regions from late September to October 20, and in the southern regions - from late October to the first half of November), and in spring possibly earlier (before the buds swell) , in the first 5 days from the start of field work, as soon as the soil "dries out" a little.

In order not to delay the timing of spring planting, all preparatory work (plowing, fertilizing, digging holes, transporting planting material, and others) should be carried out in the fall.

landing technique

In the middle of each prepared pit, before filling it with soil, a stake 125-140 centimeters long is driven in. Planting trees with a stake protects the trees from warping and from loosening by the wind. The stake must be cleared of bark. Having placed stakes in the pits, they once again check the breakdown of the garden, achieving. the correctness of the rows in all directions. Then a mound is poured around the stake from the upper fertile soil layer, the height of which should reach the edges of the pit. It is better to fill the mound 3-5 days before planting, so that the soil has time to settle and compact. If the mound is poured right before planting, then it should be slightly compacted with your foot.

The tree must be planted so that its root neck (the place where the root passes into the trunk) after the soil has settled is at the same level with the soil surface. The tree should be placed on the north or northeast side of the stake. The stake will protect the tree trunk from sunburn.

In order to plant a tree at the proper depth, use a planting rail or planting board. The landing rail is placed across the pit and the planting depth of the tree is set relative to its level.

Before planting, as already mentioned, the soil in the pit near the stake is compacted with a foot. Despite such compaction, after planting, the soil in the pit will settle, and the planted tree will also settle along with the soil. Therefore, when planting, the root neck of the tree is raised slightly above the level of the lower part of the planting rail - by the amount by which the soil settles, usually on light soils by 3-4 centimeters. On heavy soils, the root neck is raised slightly higher (by 5–6 centimeters).

Tree planting is done by two people. One of them fills the hole with loose soil, and the other carefully straightens the roots of the tree and compacts the soil around them so that voids do not form. When planting, it should be observed that the roots in the pit are evenly distributed in all directions, and the ends do not bend up. When the roots are covered by 20-25 centimeters, the soil in the pit is lightly compacted with your feet. Then the pit is filled to the brim and compaction is repeated. Previously, 20–30 kilograms of rotted manure are added to the soil. After the hole is completely filled, a hole is made at the same level with its edges around the tree. The width of the hole must be at least the width of the hole.

The planted tree is immediately watered for better seepage in two or three doses. 2-3 buckets of water are spent on watering one tree, evenly distributing water throughout the hole. With uniform watering, the soil in the pit will also settle evenly.

After watering, the hole is straightened and mulched, covered with rotted manure (a layer of 6–8 centimeters), compost, peat or old foliage. You can, in extreme cases, sprinkle the surface of the hole with dry loose fertile soil / so that a crust does not form.

During autumn planting in the regions of the northern and middle stripes, trees are spudded with soil for the winter (before frost) to a height of 20–30 centimeters. The soil for hilling is taken from the row spacing, outside the hole. Hilling protects the roots of trees from freezing. In early spring, the trees are uncovered, the soil is leveled and the holes are straightened.

A young, unrooted tree, after planting, is easily swayed by the wind, and this leads to a break in the roots and the loss of a vertical position by the tree. Root breakage and loss of verticality negatively affect the survival and development of the tree. Therefore, a planted tree must be tied to a stake. The stake must be of such a height that its top does not go inside the crown. High stakes cause damage to individual skeletal branches during friction.

The tree is tied to the stake with a soft bast in two places: at a height of 15–20 centimeters from the soil surface and directly under the crown. The bandage is applied freely and always with a figure eight, so that when the soil settles, the tree does not hang on the stake.

At the end of June or in July, when the soil in the pit has completely settled, the bandage is adjusted, making it tighter. To straighten crooked trees, a bandage is applied in several places. If damage is noticed on the trunk from friction against the stake, then when dressing between the stem and the stake, a pad of shavings, bast, straw or other soft material is placed. After planting, it is necessary to put a garden plan in a notebook (or notebook), indicating where and what variety is planted. In addition, it is recommended to regularly note in the notebook the work carried out in the garden, as well as the development of trees, the time they begin to bear fruit, productivity, etc.

tree pruning

When digging up seedlings from the nursery, severe damage to the roots is inevitable. In addition, some of the damaged roots are removed by pruning before planting. The remaining roots at first cannot fully provide nutrients to the aerial part of the tree. To restore the correspondence between the roots and the aerial part, the crown of the tree is cut. If planting is done in the spring, then the crown is cut off immediately after planting. When planting in autumn, pruning is left until spring.

Strongly developed trees are pruned to about half the length of the annual growth. Weak branches are shortened by one third of the annual growth. Cut off each shoot above the kidney, directed, as a rule, to the outside, and not inside the crown. The cut is made obliquely so that the kidney is placed under it.

The angle of inclination of the cut should be approximately 45 degrees to the axis of the shoot. With a more obtuse cut angle, a stump will remain, and if it is too sharp, a large, poorly healing wound will form.

" Trees

A transplant for a plant is a traumatic operation, which is best done during a period of natural dormancy, then it takes place practically “under anesthesia”. This is especially true for seedlings with bare roots.

Most fruit trees are best planted in a permanent place after the completion of the growing season - in the fall. Tentatively, this is a month before the freezing of the topsoil. Some trees are best planted in the spring. Let's talk in more detail about the timing of planting seedlings of fruit trees, how to fertilize and properly care for them.

Determining that a tree is ready for transplanting is very simple. The main criterion is that the tree dropped half of the leaves. They are guided when planting apple trees, as well as all berry bushes.

The roots of bushes and trees do not have a dormant period; they continue to grow in winter. The optimum temperature for rooting is +4 ° C and above. Given that the ground does not freeze so soon, root growth continues almost without a winter break.

Varieties of apple and pear trees with insufficient frost resistance, as well as all stone fruits(cherries, sweet cherries, plums, apricots and peaches), best planted in spring. Moreover, it is necessary to do this as early as possible - until the moisture has left and the buds have not blossomed.

In any case, the landing pits are prepared in advance - for spring planting, for example, from autumn (August - September). The deadline for preparing the pits is 2 weeks.

How to choose a seedling for planting in the suburbs and other regions

In order not to throw money away and grow a really fruitful fruit tree, the choice of a seedling should be approached with understanding and responsibly.

Choosing a seedling with an open root system

1. Primarily, variety must be zoned.
2. To increase the likelihood of buying the desired variety, buy them in a specialized nursery, and not "from the hands" by the road.
3. Roots must be no shorter than 25 centimeters fresh and undamaged. The more branched thin roots, the higher the likelihood of success.
4. On the roots there shouldn't be any bumps is a symptom of root cancer. The cut of the root should be white.
5. Attentively inspect the barrel for cortical damage.

When buying a seedling with leaves, carefully cut them off - the seedling will not lose moisture.

Wrap the roots with wet burlap or newspaper in several layers. If the seedling is still dry, immerse it in water for a day or two, until the bark returns to its fresh appearance.

You can treat the roots with stimulants before planting(Kornevin or Heteroauxin) according to the instructions.

Especially make sure that the roots are not soaked. These areas will probably rot - they must be carefully removed to a healthy part.

Choosing a seedling in a container

Such planting material is more expensive. If you choose it correctly, you can land at any time convenient for you. Survival guaranteed...

How not to make a mistake

The easiest way to check how long a tree has been growing in a pot is to gently lift the plant by the root part. If the earth ball is removed along with the roots, you need to buy - the seedling "lives" in the container for a long time.

Additionally, it will help you make sure you make the right choice. a root that has grown through a hole in the bottom of a container.

When choosing a container seedling, of the two - take the younger one in age. Its roots are most certainly not pruned before planting in a pot for sale.

The tree is installed in a prepared planting hole, without violating the integrity of the earth coma. Watered and covered with prepared soil mixture without deepening the seedling.

Rules for planting a seedling in a garden plot at different times of the year?

The choice of a place for planting a fruit tree - it is produced once and for all, success or disappointment depends on this choice. If the place turns out to be unsuitable for a fruit tree, after a few years it will be impossible to correct the mistake.

Choose a sunny spot to plant, sheltered from the wind.. The close location of groundwater is unacceptable - a tree can successfully develop for 5-7 years, and when its roots reach the aquifer, it will die from decay. At this age, replanting a tree is already incredibly difficult.

Preparatory activities

Even the choice of soil is not so critical for planting a fruit tree. By improving the structure of the soil and the right top dressing, almost any area is suitable for gardening.

Landing hole preparation

Even in the case of fertile black soil, it is necessary to start planting a tree by preparing a landing pit. It must be dug at least a month before planting a seedling. During this time, the dug up earth will have time to compact. This is a factor of extraordinary importance - there will be no problems with the correct deepening of the root neck of the seedling.

Root neck - where is it?

It would be useful to clarify what this “root neck” is. Often, inexperienced gardeners take the grafting site for the root collar, and as a result, they deepen the seedling by an extra 10 centimeters. Actually, this is the area where the trunk meets the root. At this point, the dark color of the root turns into a lighter bark of the bole.

The most common mistake is landing in a fresh hole. Strictly speaking, it's not in the pit itself. Until the earth sags, it is very difficult to properly deepen the root collar of the seedling. It is known that it can neither be deepened nor exposed - the tree will not be able to develop normally in both cases.

After planting, the seedling should not experience a lack of nutrients, at least until it takes root. At this stage, very often, out of good intentions, gardeners “overfeed” seedlings with fertilizers.

It is especially dangerous for young plants to add fresh organic matter and too much mineral fertilizer to the pit. These two extremes act equally depressingly on soil microorganisms, namely, they help the roots of the seedling to absorb nutrients from the soil and air.

1. For a conditioned seedling of 1-2 years of age, it is necessary dig a hole about 80x80 centimeters in size and the same depth. In the process of digging a hole, fold the upper, more fertile layer separately from the lower one. Remove all stones and roots of perennial weeds. The bottom of the pit must be dug up with a shovel bayonet.
2. To the bottom of the pit to improve the water balance, it is desirable pour last year's leaves, house debris, wood ash. This will not only be good drainage, but also an excellent additional top dressing for the tree.
3. into the pit add 2 buckets of compost or humus, and proceed as follows.
4. One bucket is mixed with the more fertile soil of the upper layer and poured into the bottom of the pit. You install a seedling on this mound, straighten its roots and pour the second part of the compost directly onto the roots. At the same time, shake the seedling so that there are no air voids that are not filled with soil.
5. I water well t (minimum 2 buckets of water).
6. The pit is filled to the top. For this, only the upper fertile layer is used.
7. From the bottom layer of the earth form a root hole around the trunk circle.
8. Water again into the formed hole and cover it with mulch(peat, rotten sawdust, foliage, wood chips), this will not only retain water, but also prevent a dense crust from forming.

When planting, it is better to deepen the root neck insufficiently. This option is easy to fix by pouring earth into the trunk circle.

Planting scheme for fruit trees and shrubs

The density of planting trees depends not only on the species, but also on:

• type of root stock of a seedling,
• way of further formation,
• site planning features.

The most common mistake novice gardeners make is planting too tightly.. It is very difficult to see trees at least 2.5 meters high in twigs of one-year-old seedlings in 10 years. The recommended scheme for planting shrubs and trees is given below.

and pears on vigorous rootstocks are located at a distance of 5 meters, medium-sized - 3.5-4 meters, dwarf - 2.5-3 meters. Columnar forms can be planted even after 0.5 meters in a row.

No less distance should be laid when planting seedlings near the house, this especially applies to tall fruit forms, and especially pay close attention to the location- over time, it will be a 10-meter sprawling tree.

To rationally use the area between the seedlings, plant currant bushes between the rows for the time being (in 10 years it will still have to be uprooted - the bush will grow old) or garden strawberries.

Caring for a newly planted tree in spring and autumn

After planting a young tree, in addition to feeding the seedling, there must be proper aftercare for it. The first time after planting, most seedlings need watering. There is an opinion among experienced old school gardeners that seedlings need watering for 2 years, even if they have taken root successfully. Even trees planted in autumn need to be watered until frost.. Only then will the tree grow strong and healthy.

No matter how great the desire to try the harvest from a young tree, the first flowers must be removed. This is especially true for the first year after planting, otherwise the tree will give all its strength to the first few fruits, and it will not be able to grow the root system and a developed crown.

In addition to watering, a young tree requires preventive measures to protect against pests and fungal diseases. Do not bypass them during each garden treatment. The loss of branches and leaves from pests or disease can be critical for a young tree.

Preparing young trees for winter includes:

• mulching trunk circle,
• whitewashing the trunk for the prevention of solar and frosty winter burns,
• rodent protection and hares.

The mulching layer must necessarily cover the near-stem circle, not only in the summer to preserve moisture in the root zone. Mulch is especially necessary in the autumn-winter period. Even in the conditions of the Middle Strip and the Moscow Region, the roots of a tree or shrub seedling may suffer from freezing, especially if the snow cover is negligible.

Fertilizers and top dressing for a fruit tree

A well-filled planting hole provides nutrition for a planted tree for 2 years. In practice, it only needs watering.

Fertilizing the garden is carried out according to the established rule:

1. spring- nitrogen and organic fertilizers,
2. autumn- potassium and phosphorus.

Fertilization is usually carried out in the near-stem circles in early spring (1) or autumn (2).

Fertilizers are applied to the root zone at the rate of 1 hectare of the garden:

• organic 300-500 kg (every 2-3 years),
• inorganic N:P:K in proportions 1.5:1:0.6 (in terms of kg of chemically pure substance).

In addition to root dressings, gardeners often practice foliar dressings. In this case, the so-called “tank mixtures” are used - joint solutions of chemicals, for example, against pests and a complex of foliar dressings.

Foliar dressings, unlike root dressings, have an effect almost instantly. Through the surface of the leaves, they are absorbed by the garden plant after 4 hours. This process is especially active on the underside of the sheet.

Another "plus" of such processing- fertilizer consumption is minimal. For example, for nitrogen fertilizing, a solution of 1 tablespoon of saltpeter is prepared for 1 bucket of water.

The only inconvenience is that it cannot be processed immediately before the rain.

Another important point, it is better to “underfeed” the garden with any fertilizer ...

Conclusion

The optimal time for planting fruit trees depends on many factors:

• From the climatic conditions of your region.
• From the winter hardiness of the seedling.
• From the type of seedling - container or with a "bare root".

In order not to get confused, Ukrainian gardeners have an old rule, which is all the more necessary for colder regions- all stone fruits are planted in spring, pome fruits - in autumn.