Do-it-yourself workbench desktop. Instructions for the manufacture of a carpentry workbench. How to make a simple carpentry workbench with your own hands

About carpentry workbenches

The device and purpose of the workbench

A carpenter's workbench is a workbench for manual and mechanical processing of wooden products. The design and ergonomics of a classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and perform basic carpentry operations with maximum convenience: make wooden parts, assemble structures, cover them with finishing compounds. The traditional carpenter's table is designed to work with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. For processing longer pieces, a carpenter's workbench is used.

The carpentry table consists of a workbench (cover) and a workbench (bearing frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.

There are holes in the table top and wooden vise jaws. They are designed to install clamps and stops of various sections and heights.

Having placed the stops in the desired configuration, a part is placed between them and pressed with a screw vise mechanism. Thus, the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness of the wooden part, use a stop of the appropriate height, which will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.

How to choose the optimal workbench height?

The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. The optimal height of the table is selected based on the growth of the master. If, standing at the workbench, the palms freely rest against its lid, then the size is chosen correctly. Behind such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.

What materials are best to make a structure?

The carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to heavy loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are provided not only by the features of fasteners, but also the type of materials used.

Coniferous wood is traditionally used for the manufacture of the base. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the workbench must be dry (moisture content of about 12%) without knots and other defects.

About making a bench cover

Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to purchase a ready-made glued shield, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing the edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the money saved.

When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the lid: drilling, chiselling, etc., it is better to cover the working surface of the workbench with a thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately with a workbench.

Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls

The design of the sidewall consists of two legs (B), tsargs and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through glued spike.

Curly cutouts of the sides and supports (detail A) are cut out on a band saw, followed by grinding the edges.

In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, the legs are marked with sockets for the spikes of the prolegs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.

On the outer side of the legs, a conical recess is made for the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.

Sawing spikes and eyelets

Spikes and lugs are made on a saw machine or by hand, guided by the basic principles for creating spiked joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a flawless fit of the connection. The workpieces must have prepared smooth surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.

Sidewall assembly

Parts A and B are glued into a finished joint. After drying, the excess glue that has come through is carefully cleaned with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is polished.

A hole 19x38 mm is drilled in the center of the glued drawer side under the dowel (L) to fix the cover of the workbench.

Production of prolegs and underbench shelves

According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for prolegs (detail C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As in the case of the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw machine.

The connection of the prolegs with the sidewall is made detachable on a bolt screed with a transverse nut. To do this, a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and a depth of 32 mm is milled on the inside of the prolegs. A hole of 14x95 mm is drilled at the ends of the prolegs. At this stage, it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90 °.

The support strips (details D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws with an offset of 22 mm from the upper edges of the prongs.

According to the dimensions specified in the “General Detailing” drawing, the slats of the bench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersinked at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.

Mounting the bench cover

Non-through holes d19 mm and 32 mm deep for dowels (L) are drilled on the back side of the workbench.

With a d19 mm drill, through holes are made on the lid for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the cover. All holes are chamfered. The stops should easily enter the sockets and not play.

Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure neat holes at a perfectly right angle. It is not difficult to make such a guide yourself, having a piece of timber at hand.

Bench vise installation

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to buy a carpentry vice ready-made. In this case, you will get the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, get rid of unnecessary headaches during their installation.

Manufacturers of bench vises strive to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we will consider the installation scheme of typical structures. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of non-standard bench vise.

Vice jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - are sawn from hardwood. After that, holes are drilled for guide rods, a lead screw, sockets for bench stops and holes for mounting screws.

The rear jaws of the front and rear vise are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.

Wooden linings (detail K) are cut to fit the vise. Through holes are drilled in the drawers for the guide rods and the lead screw.

Advice! To accurately mark the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces of masking tape and a soft pencil.

If the blacksmith's main tools are the hammer and the anvil, then for the carpenter there is nothing "kinder" than his workbench. It is he who for people who work with wood can at the same time be a cutting platform and an assembly table, an emphasis and a stand, a device for storing tools and even, if you like, a small carpentry machine, and sometimes a means of earning money. This article tells how to make carpentry tables with your own hands. The instructions, photographs and drawing presented in it will help to mount this design even for a beginner.

Osya FORUMHOUSE member

First of all, after building a workshop, you need to make a table for yourself. A table like a workbench, in fact. This is a table for work - fitting, assembling small things made of wood (stools, shelves, etc.) I will call it an assembly table.

In fact, the second name of the workbench is "assembly". But, as you already understood, its purpose goes far beyond assembly operations. Therefore, the design of a multifunctional workbench in a carpentry can be quite intricate (see the drawing below), and its development (in the absence of experience) can be given as much time as it takes to design the carpentry shop itself.

General description of the carpentry workbench

At the heart of any carpentry workbench, regardless of the number of operations that are supposed to be performed with it, there is always an ordinary wooden table. It is on it that the master will carpentry, drill parts, process surfaces, assemble wooden trinkets into one complex structure and surprise others with his skills.

A good massive table is the foundation. And everything else - a vice, clamps, boxes with tools and fasteners - all these are the invariable attributes of the most useful carpentry workshop.

Workbench project

To make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, you must first understand its parameters, which are optimal for you.

The first and most important thing to pay attention to when developing a project for a future workbench is its height. After all, he will have to work for a long time. And you can get tired, standing behind a workbench that is too high or too low, in a jiffy.

The dimensions of the workbench for work are chosen in such a way that it is possible to work standing upright and not slouch. For a person of average height, the height of the table should be within 70 ... 90 cm. But it is better to focus on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is at the level of your lowered hands. When a few centimeters are added to this height (the thickness of the workbench lid), you will realize that working standing at such a table is a pleasure.

The optimal height of the carpentry table for standing work for a person of average height is 70-90 cm.

The cover of the workbench, as well as the work surface, is best made from solid wood or plywood. There are people who use chip materials, light chipboard sheets, etc. for these purposes. We strongly do not recommend that you take an example from them. This is a bad project - after all, the loads on the surface of the structure can be quite noticeable, and the particle board in such conditions will quickly fail.

Osya FORUMHOUSE member

5 years ago, I received 2 sheets of plywood as a gift from a neighbor. It was decided to use it in the construction of a workbench. The size of the workbench was determined immediately - it was a pity to cut such a sheet. Experience has shown that there are no extra centimeters at the table. The height was determined by the height of the palms from the floor and amounted to 850 mm.

Ideally, a homemade workbench should have a special tray on the lid for storing tools and wood blanks involved in the work, as well as special holes (nests) for wedges and combs. With the help of wedges and (or) combs, parts and workpieces will be fixed on the surface of the table. It is on the cover that auxiliary clamps (vises) should be mounted to fix the processed lumber.

The dimensions of the workbench may vary depending on the dimensions of your workshop. But, as practice shows, the optimal dimensions of the cover are equal - 700 mm wide and 2000 mm long.

The supports (legs) of the workbench can be made from a wooden beam 120 * 120 mm, no more. This will be quite enough to ensure that the structure is stable and does not loosen under the influence of brute physical force.

Workbench installation

As practice shows, making a workbench is not difficult. Mounting a workbench is no different from assembling an ordinary wooden table. Vertical supports are fastened together using vertical boards and self-tapping screws. The work surface should also be fixed to the supports using self-tapping screws.

When assembling a workbench, you should avoid using nails to connect parts. Indeed, later this can lead to a rapid loosening of the workbench and even to a distortion of its supporting frame.

In order to save space in the carpentry workshop, some craftsmen make a homemade workbench folding. It is attached to the wall. This type of installation assumes that carpentry work will be performed only when necessary.

CartmanSr FORUMHOUSE member

In the past, in cramped conditions, I had a workbench - a laminated MDF board 24 mm thick, with dimensions of 1200x2200. It had minor modifications, such as: holes and grooves for fastening a hand-held milling cutter and a circular saw, a flush-mounted metal frame with threaded holes for fastening rulers, and mustache nuts from below, located at the attachment points of a hand planer and a drilling machine from a drill with a rocker arm. The tabletop was attached to the wall on three hinges. During non-working hours, it rose vertically and was fixed on the wall. Under the board, also on hinges, there are two triangles from the same plate. She used to work on them.

Such a design is an excellent way out of a situation in which the interior space of the workshop is very limited. But such a carpentry table does not withstand intense loads, and it can be made independently only in exceptional cases.

After you mount the frame and the work surface of the product, a simple carpentry table can be considered ready. But in order for it to turn into a full-fledged workbench and start carpentry, its functionality needs to be slightly expanded by supplementing the design with specialized equipment.

Given the special specifics of the activity, the carpenter's desktop must be equipped with appropriate equipment. And if the necessary tools are always at hand, then this is an excellent indicator. And the structural elements of the workbench itself will help you correctly position the fixtures, fasteners and power tools.

Rear and front clamps

Rear and side (front) screw clamps are the elements without which no workbench simply can fulfill its main purpose. Therefore, this part of the structure should be built first.

The rear clamp is designed to fix lumber during planing. As shown in the diagram, its vise pads move along the front edge of the workbench, allowing you to securely fix the workpiece with the help of lead screws.

The side screw clamp (which, due to its special location, is called the front clamp by many) has the same purpose as the rear clamp. And these elements differ from each other only in their location. Here are the drawings of the carpentry table for its self-production. FORUMHOUSE member

The fact of the matter is that in the design of the workbench, the lower shelf is necessary (especially on a mobile workbench). The tool is used a lot, there is nowhere to put it on the street during work. Yes, and in the workshop it is also inconvenient - climbing back and forth on cabinets and shelves. Fold the same tool 10 times per hour...

The basement can be adapted to store power tools. To increase convenience, you can install cabinets and shelves for small parts, fixtures and hand tools here.

Having made a workbench that has all of the listed elements, you can begin your carpentry activities. In the process of further work, you may need additional devices. But about what options to apply and what elements to add, each master will be able to guess for himself.

About from which you can subsequently make various products on your carpentry workbench, you can learn from our previous article. You can get acquainted with practical ideas regarding, in the appropriate section of our forum. Any visitor to FORUMHOUSE can get acquainted with by visiting a special topic created for discussions.

Home craftsmen who saw off wooden blanks on a stool sooner or later come to the need to make their own workbench for carpentry. When performing simple tasks, you can get by with a universal desktop and a couple of three good clamps.

If you are serious about carpentry, you need the appropriate equipment. It does not matter if you are doing custom-made products, or doing something for the home. A homemade carpentry workbench will allow you to make any product at a high technical level, and save you a lot of time.

IMPORTANT! When discussing this question, it is assumed that you have free space for work. Ideally, a separate room in the form of a workshop. As a last resort - a high-quality canopy in the yard.

If you are going to do carpentry in an apartment, or on a spacious loggia, the only way out is to purchase a folding metal workbench. Of course, it will not be possible to process dimensional wooden blanks on it, but the quality of work and convenience will increase by an order of magnitude.

The main task of such a device is to securely fix the workpiece of any shape on a flat tabletop. Instead of a carpentry vice, a system of sliding halves of the working plane is used.

Fixation of the product is carried out with the help of adjustable stops. There are holes in the table for their installation. The well-thought-out design allows you to fix even a round workpiece.

The presence of a longitudinal groove in the table top (moreover, with an adjustable width) allows you to cut flat products without leaning on the edge, which requires the presence of an assistant holding the free side. Sawing can be done in the middle, using an electric jigsaw, controlling both halves of the workpiece.

Such tables can be supplemented with an electric planer, circular saw or milling machine, which expands the possibilities.

A similar folding workbench can be made from wood. True, stability will not be the same as that of a stationary product.

And yet, full-fledged carpentry work on such devices cannot be performed. Firstly, the apartment is not too adapted for this. Secondly, the dimensions of folding workbenches limit the dimensions of the processed products.

Therefore, most craftsmen who are responsible for their work will prefer a home-made carpentry workbench of full size to a store universal table.

In addition, the finished machine does not provide for the individual characteristics of the master:

• Height, arm length;
• Is the master left-handed or right-handed;
• Preferences in processed products - the tabletop can be square or rectangular;
• Features of the room or platform for using the workbench.

How to make a universal carpentry workbench with your own hands

Before looking for a project or drawing up a workbench of your own design, you need to understand how the system works. I would like to have at once a platform for cutting large workpieces, and a milling cutter, and a drilling machine.

IMPORTANT! Any versatility degrades the specialized capabilities of the product. Some devices are still better used as separate devices.

Carpenter's workbench device

There are a great many designs, but the main components must be present:

Sturdy tabletop (work surface) made of solid wood.
Suitable oak, beech or hornbeam. The density of the top plane should be higher than that of the tree of potential blanks.

Options like a lattice made of timber covered with 12-20 mm plywood are not suitable. A flat surface will wear out quickly, and during operation there will always be hooks on uneven workpieces. In addition, a perfectly flat workbench is in itself a standard for aligning product components, or a coordinate system for marking.

1. Design features
2. Types of workbenches
3. Production material
4. Preparatory stage
5. Tools and materials
6. Assembly instructions

The workbench is carpentry, or turning, - a massive, stable, stationary or portable desktop. Workpieces of various calibers are processed on it with manual or electrical equipment. To ensure reliable fixation of the tool, the table top is equipped with technological holes.

Design features

Workbenches for home workshops should be easy to use, include shelves, drawers. Design:

• supporting frame on four legs;
• countertop made of wood or metal sheet;
• bedside table (one or more) for storing accessories, spare parts.

Bedside tables are installed along the edges of the work surface, often equipped with shelves, drawers.

Garage or workshop, where the carpenter's table will be installed, must have an outlet to turn on a stationary rotary directional lamp. The lamp is usually mounted on a wall or directly on a work surface - a workbench.

Types of workbenches

Tables are:

• carpentry,
• plumbing.

In the first case, the design consists of a metal or wooden frame and a wooden table top. Not suitable for processing metal workpieces, which are turned with machine oil: a wooden workbench absorbs oily liquid. In addition, metal shavings quickly render the lid unusable.

The second option is a universal workbench. Its galvanized iron worktop is suitable for working with wood and metals. The design is more stable, hardy, withstands increased pressure. On it you can do sharpening, grinding, sawing, cutting blanks. The workbench can be monolithic and folding. A drawing of a homemade workbench is shown in the image.

Production material

To make a homemade carpentry workbench, you will need an edged board or sheet metal. A metal table is more resistant to mechanical stress, but it is difficult to assemble.

For the manufacture of a metal workbench, it is necessary to draw up a drawing with the dimensions of individual elements. When assembling a folding or solid board workbench, you will need the usual set of tools.

The metal sample is heavy, the wooden sample is not very hardy. You can combine these two materials in one product: make a desktop out of wood, reinforce the countertop with a thin sheet of iron.

Preparatory stage

First you need to determine the shape and dimensions of the workbench, choose the place of its installation. To ensure that the workplace is always well lit, the light should fall from the left or straight ahead.. Often sockets with an extension cord are mounted on the surface of a workbench.

The length of the tabletop should be sufficient for processing workpieces, placing tools.

The optimal width parameters are 50–60 cm. One edge of the table is usually used for working with a circular saw, other power tools. Therefore, a safety bar with a protrusion of 20–30 cm is fixed there.

Convenience at work depends on the height of the workbench. In order to determine this parameter, you need to stand up straight, bend your arms at the elbows. The distance from the floor to the arms bent at the elbows is optimal for a stationary or folding workbench.

Tools and materials

Would need:

• welding machine;
• angle grinder with saw bladedesigned for metal cutting;
• drill, screwdriver;
• level, tape measure
• welding machine, set of electrodes;
• electric jigsaw for sawing plywood.

materials:

• Metal corner, a strip of steel 4 mm thick.
• Sheet steel 2 mm thick. From it guides for boxes, the top covering of a table-top are made.
• Wooden board 50 mm thick, 25 cm wide for the work surface.
• Plywood 15 mm thick. It is intended for boxes, walls of a workbench.
• Fasteners: metal screws, anchor bolts, screws.
• 2mm square tube.
• Paint for painting wood and metal surfaces.

Edged boards are used to build a tabletop, shelves, steel strips are useful for making edging sides.

Assembly instructions

To begin with, 4 identical legs are made from a metal corner. The supports in the upper part are connected by a similar corner using a welding machine. You should get a design of 50 x 100 cm. To provide the table with additional rigidity, pieces of a corner are welded at a height of 10–15 cm from the floor. Optionally, you can provide racks that serve as fasteners for drawers, shelves.

Wooden boards must be laid on the frame, tightly fixed with bolts, having previously provided the metal frame and the boards themselves with technological holes for fasteners.

Wooden countertops do not withstand heavy loads. For protection, galvanized iron of a suitable size is used. It is fixed over the boards with self-tapping screws.

When cutting, metal edges are often covered with burrs. For safety, it is recommended to grind them with a file.

For greater stability, the legs in the lower part can be equipped with metal plates with holes for fasteners. It is also recommended to screw the workbench to the floor. On the side of the structure adjacent to the wall, a metal screen is often installed. It is convenient to place small tools on it.

Surely, every man in his youth at labor lessons more than once had to make a certain object made of wood, standing idle for more than one hour behind such a device.

And now, as an adult, and creating beautiful and practical woodwork, you are thinking about acquiring your own carpentry workbench. My advice to you is not to spend money, it is better to spend some personal time, getting a quality “workplace” in return.

So, what is a "carpenter's workbench"? It is stable, solid (often made of wood), the purpose of which lies in the processing of various products using manual and mechanized tools.

If you are seriously thinking about making a workbench, you should pay attention that there are several types of them:

Wood or metal?

First of all, before you start creating your own workbench, you should think about what material it will be made of. A wooden base would be appropriate if the intended work area does not take up much space.

The ideal option for a countertop would be laminated chipboard or pressed plywood.. For a stationary sample, a combination of planed wooden boards and metal is suitable.

Advice: an old unnecessary table, or a high-quality door made of solid canvas, is well suited for the base.

It is undesirable to make a workbench from metal, an acceptable compromise would be a wooden lid and a frame with metal cladding.

It is best to use not one or two vices, but as many as possible. With some, fix long boards without much effort, while others are suitable for attaching small parts.

Dimensions and drawing

Before we start manufacturing, it is necessary to think over its design and dimensions, purpose. For the manufacture of parts and assembly of the table, you will need to make a drawing. On it, with an accuracy of a millimeter, we indicate all the data. Further, you will often have to use the drawing in the process of manufacturing individual elements and when assembling the product.

Advice: when drawing up a drawing, be guided by the size of the countertop at 1600x800 and a height of 870 mm.

Instruments

What set of tools will the master need:

Of course, the list may vary depending on what material you decide to choose for the base of the workbench, and what design it will be.

Reference: it is extremely important at the very beginning to determine the height of the workbench. An experienced master will be able to make a device with an adjustable height, the rest are advised to focus on the distance from the extreme point of the arm bent at the elbow to the floor.

How to do?

Manufacturing

This process takes place in several stages, the first of which is the base assembly. This is followed by the installation of countertops and the installation of all necessary equipment.

We prepare vertical supports and lintels, drill a through hole in a horizontally located bar. After we wind the nut with the washer on the bolt from the side of the groove. In the middle of the tabletop we install jumpers (there will be boxes between them), slats are attached to them. The workbench lid will be bolted on.

The base of the workbench is a wooden frame (it is recommended to use soft wood for their manufacture: linden or pine), the fastenings of which must meet all the requirements of rigidity and stability. That is why, between the legs of your desktop in a horizontal form, you should place a jumper, and install a drawer along the entire length. They must be fixed at a safe distance from the floor (50 cm). Such a reserve of space can be useful in the future, and you can easily place small shelves or drawers at the bottom of the workbench.

Then we move on to the step countertop constructions. This can be done with several boards, but in this case they must be carefully processed, cleared of debris and sawdust. Its dimensions must exceed the width and length of the base. This solution is for your convenience. So the working area can be easily cleaned. The tabletop is fixed to the boards located on the opposite side of the workbench being created. Installation of bars is simply impossible without several grooves (slots, joints) located at the base.

We cover the work surface created by us with a vise. To do this, we construct a plywood gasket from the wrong side, mark with a pencil or pen where the future holes will be. We drill them, attach a vise with nuts.

When we create stops, adjust them in height, place them at a sufficiently large distance from the vise. Such care will ensure reliability, and you will be sure that the workpieces will remain on the surface without falling to the floor.

We are also building, they can be fixed on the support of the bench space.

Let's start creating guide boxes, which will subsequently serve as a repository for all tools and large items. For them, we take away the back of the workbench, we make recesses.

We nail a couple of transverse bars to the base of the tabletop, for them it is premature to leave grooves. We attach the slats to the jumpers horizontally, they will serve for the process of sliding the boxes.

Attach the table top to the base with bolts.. We make recesses with a chisel, drill the indicated places, after which the bolts will appear there. It is necessary that their heads do not cause injuries, so they are securely hidden in the countertop.

Assembly

A certain number of vices will need to be attached to the structure. Under them, openings are prepared in advance, under which small plywood gaskets are subsequently fixed.

Be careful, place the vise on the same level to prevent destruction of the workbench.

We place the attachment points, after which we can start fixing the tools. Hardware is perfect for this.

Important: The vise should never be placed close to the corners of your table, otherwise there is a risk of the tool breaking.

Supporting elements are easy to do with your own hands. To do this, simply fix the finished stops, or drill small openings of a certain size.

Attention: it is not advisable to use bolts as stops, they can damage parts, and dowels are unreliable. Create rectangles, they will serve as an ideal and reliable fastener. Fasten the bar to the end of the workbench.

Consider the fact that rather heavy and massive things will subsequently be placed on the countertop, such as:

• wooden clamps;
• turning equipment;
• milling element;
• drill (stationary).

Therefore, it is so important to make sure that the fasteners are reliable and to think over all the options for convenience so that you do not have to regret the location of certain devices in the future.

Finishing

The finished product can be put in order with a grinder. After that, we cover the entire surface of the desktop with drying oil as a protective and primer layer for paint. So you save yourself from getting splinters, reduce the risk of injury.

Finally, screw the corners (with bolts) at the base.

It would be more correct to install such a structure in the zone of natural light, that is, by the window. Take care of additional lighting of the workplace, also do not forget that there should be sockets next to the workbench, in such a situation an extension cord can “save” you. The most comfortable pastime at the workbench will be if the table is not too high, and the light falls from the left or from above.

A photo

Making furniture is an individual process. You may well end up with something beautiful and convenient:

Useful video

The step-by-step manufacturing process is described in detail in the following video:

Conclusion

Having appeared on the farm, it will become an indispensable assistant, and over time, you will see for yourself. Firstly, a do-it-yourself workbench is a significant money saver. Secondly, you, as a specialist, acquire practical skills. Thirdly, you will always have a convenient table “at hand” on which you can create interesting and useful household items.

In contact with