Mortar for grouting tiles. Preparation and application of grout for tiles. Cement based grout

Wall and floor decoration in the bathroom, bathroom, the formation of a working apron in the kitchen is mainly made of ceramic tiles. However, over time, the seams wear out, become clogged with dirt, and in the bathroom, with constant contact with water, they can even become covered with mold spots. As a result, the whole type of finish deteriorates. To protect the grout from wear, it is necessary to impregnate the tile joints with a special solution in a timely manner.

Joint putty technology

When choosing a ceramic tile finish, most often they discuss the characteristics of the tile itself: its design, laying technology and other points. The implementation of tile joints is remembered much less often, and in fact it depends on the quality of the grout how the entire surface will look like as a whole.

Of the variety of related finishing materials, the following types of grouts are distinguished.

Resistant to chemical attack, temperature fluctuations, mold and fungus, it is easy to remove dirt from them. Due to the resistance to aggressive external factors, such grout has been widely used in the treatment of rooms in which the humidity indicator is high (for example, in a bathroom or shower room).

However, only professionals in their field can work with epoxy compounds, since the consistency of the solution is quite viscous and requires great care.

They have significant advantages:

• plastic consistency;
• small shrinkage of seams;
• independence of the speed and quality of hardening from temperature and humidity;
• frost resistance;
• ease of cleaning the surface of the tile from excess mortar;
• hydrophilic surface.

However, if we compare this composition with epoxy, then it is significantly inferior in strength. Liquid polymers are additionally added to increase the strength of the solution.

This is the most common type. It owes its popularity to its affordable price and ease of application technology.

To make a grout, it is enough to pour the dry mixture with the required amount of water in accordance with the instructions indicated on the package. After the joints have dried, you can remove the white coating that has formed on the tile with a regular sponge moistened with water.

Such seams are prone to contamination, and under the influence of moisture they can darken or crumble, therefore, to preserve the appearance of the coating, they must be impregnated with a special solution with a water-repellent effect. Some craftsmen add a primer to give the cement composition water-repellent properties when mixing the mortar.

The grout is applied using a rubber spatula, pressing the solution into the gap between the tiles, or a special bag, which, in its principle of operation, is similar to a pastry bag.

A trowel bag is most often used when working with polymer or epoxy compounds.

Treatment with a protective solution

To create a coating on the tile joints that is resistant to water and cleaning agents, the appearance of darkening, pollution and fungal formations, it is necessary to additionally impregnate the joints with special compounds with hydrophobic properties. Impregnation for seams has the following qualities:

• provides a hydrophobic coating (important when processing tiles in the bathroom);
• prevents surface contamination;
• has an antifungal effect.

For such processing are most often used:

• water repellents, which, due to their liquid consistency, are easily applied to the seams with a thin brush;
• polymer varnish that can penetrate deep into the grout (up to the base);
• sealants based on silicones or acrylics, which are used mainly in the most vulnerable places: in the corners of the bathroom or at the junctions of the bath (shower) and tiles.

Now on sale there are protective coatings that do not create a "glass" layer and do not affect the vapor permeability of the treated surface. Also, two-component compositions are widely used, which, when dried, have high strength, durability and tightness. When grouting joints with such solutions, the need for additional impregnation is eliminated.

It is recommended to apply the impregnation not earlier than 7 days after grouting, so that the surface is completely dry. In rare cases, the impregnation can change the color of the grout, therefore, in order to avoid unpleasant surprises, it is better to conduct a trial treatment in a hidden area.

The processing temperature recommended by the manufacturer is indicated on the packaging. However, there are general requirements: processing must be carried out at a temperature not lower than +5°C and not higher than +30°C and a relative humidity of at least 80%. Therefore, when working with such solutions in rooms with high humidity (bathroom, bath, pool, shower), it is necessary to clarify the indicators using a hygrometer.

Protective impregnation with water repellents is done with a thin brush neatly along the seam. If the solution gets on the tile, its surface may become cloudy. To avoid damage to the finish, it is recommended to glue the edges of the tiles with masking tape. Water repellents can penetrate the grout, so a second coat will be required to provide a water repellent finish.

Seam update

If over time the seams become dirty, then there are two ways to give a fresh look to the lined surface in the bathroom.

Pencil painting

It is necessary to wash the seams with cleaning products, wait for them to dry and cover with a water repellent. Hardware stores sell a special grouting pencil, made in the form of a marker. The tool will perfectly cope with cleaning the joints of tiles in the bathroom, since the solution included in its composition is able to destroy mold and prevent the formation of fungus.

Many housewives, when cleaning tile joints, use not only industrial cleaners, but also resort to old folk methods:

1. To eliminate fungus or mold that has appeared on the seams in the bathroom, it is necessary to treat the surface with a solution of vinegar, ammonia and a water softener.
2. Another remedy for moldy stains is alcohol. It must be applied to the joints with a small brush (an old toothbrush will do), stand for a while and wipe off the dirt.
3. Also, an aqueous solution of antifungal drugs (Nystatin) will help to remove mold in the bathroom. To prepare the solution, it is enough to dissolve the tablet in a small amount of water.
4. To bleach light joints, you can use ordinary household bleach with chlorine. It is enough just to fill the seams with mortar and brush.
5. In case of severe contamination, the joints can be sprinkled with baking soda and poured with vinegar. The foam formed as a result of a chemical reaction will simply push out the dirt, and it can be easily washed off with water.

Work with cleaning products (even with those that are prepared independently) must be carried out in compliance with safety regulations: in rubber gloves, and, if necessary, in a respirator.

Update

You can update the grout like this. Remove the old coating with a conventional construction knife or a special “opener”. The choice of tool is an individual matter, the main thing is that the tool does not leave scratches and other damage on the surface of the tile.

If the old layer is strongly hardened and cannot be removed by conventional mechanical action, then the grout can be treated with a special softening compound. It should be noted right away that it will not be possible to remove epoxy putty on your own - this is a matter for professionals. Then:

• after cleaning the seams, treat the ends of the tiles and joints with a primer;
• perform a fresh grout;
• when the grout dries, you can start applying the hydrophobic solution.

In order for the lined surface to last as long as possible and look like new, it is recommended to renew the grout every 3-5 years.

Many people mistakenly believe that light-colored grouts are more prone to contamination than dark-colored coatings. In fact, they are polluted in exactly the same way, but pollution stands out more against a light background. It is possible to preserve the aesthetic appearance of a ceramic tile coating only if the laying and grouting technologies are followed and proper maintenance is carried out.

The final step in laying tiles is grouting. In this article we will talk about how to make a grout, what role it plays and what is needed for this job.

Why grout is needed

The joints between tiles are the space at the joints of different fragments. Their width can be different from 2 to 5 mm. The width of the seam is determined from the width of the tile, the larger it is, the wider the seam.

The resulting space is filled with a special grout. There are several reasons for this:

1. Through these seams the wall will breathe.
2. It improves the adhesion of tiles.
3. Protects the layer of tile adhesive from the negative effects of moisture.
4. Due to dampness, the likelihood of dampness and the appearance of mold is excluded.
5. Performs a decorative role. You can choose a grout of different colors, for example, to match the lining or as a contrast.

The quality of the composition affects the final result.

Choice of grout

When choosing, the following factors must be taken into account:


Color. The chosen color affects the final result, whether it will be beautiful or not. You can highlight individual elements or focus on a specific pattern, the grout can be contrasting. If you want to create a monolithic picture, the color of the grout should match the tile. There are no restrictions in this matter, it all depends on personal preference and vision of the final result.

Properties and composition. This is another important point to which attention is drawn. The composition may contain various components, for example, epoxy, Portland cement, alabaster, gypsum, and so on. The composition depends on the purpose of the grout.

If grouting tiles is carried out in a very damp room, then the grout should be water-repellent. If we are talking about floor cladding, then the mixture must be resistant to abrasion and have the appropriate components in its composition.

Appointment. Be sure to make an individual choice for floor and wall tiles. Wall mix is ​​not suitable for the floor, as under heavy load it will quickly wear out and will need to be updated. A tenacious mixture is needed for the floor.

Cooking rules

Having chosen a suitable mixture for grouting, consider the basic rules for its preparation. An easy way to avoid mistakes is to follow the instructions on the package.

The manufacturer indicates the proportions in which the dry mixture should be mixed with water. If you bought a ready-made solution, then it does not need to be prepared, except that you just need to mix it.

If the proportions are not observed when mixing the dry mixture, then the mass may turn out to be too liquid. As a result, it will flow out of the joint. If it is too thick, then it is unlikely to be able to make high-quality grouting.

Important! Failure to comply with the proportions leads to a decrease in the quality of the strength of the grout.

In most cases, there are about 300 ml of water per 1 kg of dry mix. Liquid should be at room temperature. With these proportions, the mixture will have the consistency of sour cream. This mixture is easy to work with. You won't need to put in much effort.

Sequencing

The whole process of work consists of several successive stages:

1. Mixture preparation.
2. Distribution of grout in a tile joint.
3. Cleaning seams from excess.

For work, prepare the following set of items:

• Protective glasses.
• Grout.
• Respirator (in case of cement mixture mixing).
• Container for clean water.
• Clean cloth and sponge.
• Mixing container.
• Rubber spatula.
• Gloves.
• Tassel.
• Rectangular trowel.

If the grout is diluted, place a small amount on the surface of the tile with a rubber spatula. To evenly distribute the solution into the seams, a rectangular trowel or a regular rubber spatula is used.

The correct sequence of actions when grouting tiles - advice from the master

Hold the spatula at a 30° angle and spread the grout diagonally between the joints. Pass over the surface of the tile with a spatula three times.

The mixture should well fill the existing joints of the cladding. The higher the density, the better. If a decorative corner was installed at the corners, then grout is also placed in the existing slots.

note

The grout is distributed gradually over the entire area. First fill the seams on an area of ​​2 m2 and so gradually move forward.

Do not immediately make a big batch. The mixture may set, especially if you do not already have skills in this work. During this work, the places near the sockets, the attachment of the heated towel rail and other plumbing elements must be filled.

Grouting with a special bag

Many decide to simplify their task and use a special trowel bag. The principle of its operation resembles a pastry bag. A tip is attached to the end of the bag. The width of the tip must match the gap between the tiles.

After that, a trowel mass is prepared, which is poured into the bag. Further, through the hole, the mixture is squeezed out directly into the joint between the tiles.

Before this, direct the tip directly to the joint. As you squeeze out the grout, move the bag until the seam is completely filled.

First, horizontal seams are filled, and then vertically. It is necessary to squeeze out the solution in larger portions than it may seem necessary. The composition will still be rammed.

When working on the wall, there should not be any special problems. The essence of working with tile joints on the floor is almost the same. We will consider several nuances.

Simplification of work is achieved by using a construction grater, which has a rubber pad. At arm's length, distribute the grout with sweeping movements.

To achieve the desired result, the mixture should be slightly thinner. This method is only possible when laying smooth tiles. If the surface is textured and has protrusions, then the mixture will fill all the pores. After that, you will have to spend a lot of time cleaning the tiles.

Important! As for the processing of floor tiles, be sure to choose those compounds that are resistant to possible stress.

How to deal with cracking

One of the most common problems is cracking of the seams between the tiles. Most often, this problem is inherent in cement-based compositions.

There can be many reasons for this, for example:

• Sudden temperature changes.
• The impact of hot water.
• Floating wooden floor.
• Incorrect kneading when grouting.

If a crack is found, it should be repaired immediately. Water can adversely affect the tile adhesive and substrate. This may lead to the formation of mold.

There are several ways to get rid of cracks. For example, completely embroider the seams and refill them with a new mixture. If the cracks are in the initial stage, then take a dry mixture and carefully rub it into the seams.

It is more effective to prevent this problem. The preparation of the mixture must be in accordance with the existing proportions. The solution should have an average viscosity. After kneading, let the mixture stand for up to 5 minutes, and then, re-mix and work with it.

note

During the drying process, it is unacceptable to ventilate the room or turn on the heating for quick drying. The grout should dry in the most natural temperature environment.

Conclusion
So, here we learned how to grout tile joints. We examined the technology of this process and how to implement everything correctly. We hope that this material was useful to you. In conclusion, we offer you to watch a master class on grouting floor clinker tiles:

The final step in decorating a bathroom with tiles is always grouting. After carrying out this operation, the tiled masonry acquires completeness and accuracy.

Grouting tiles in the bathroom with your own hands is an affordable job for anyone, even an inexperienced master. One has only to start and "fill" his hand - and the further process will go quickly. It should be noted that much in carrying out such finishing work depends on the material chosen. So, for those who do not have experience in work, it is better to choose a grout that dries long enough. Using a fast-curing material can ruin the whole look of even a well-placed tile.

The joint filler is designed to protect the adhesive composition on which the tiles are laid, the surfaces of walls and floors from the penetration of moisture, dirt, mold, as well as for the final aesthetic design of the coating. Therefore, you can’t do without grouting - finishing material with open seams will not linger on walls and floors for a long time, and on the surfaces under it a favorable environment will be created for the development of mold and fungus, which will sooner or later hit the base.

To make it easy to work with the material, and the seams between the tiles turned out to be neat and reliable, any grout must meet certain requirements. A mixture prepared from dry formulations or sold already in finished form must have the following qualities:

• The uniformity of the composition will greatly facilitate the work - in this case it will completely fill all the seams. It is unacceptable that the mixture has hard inclusions that tend to create “plugs” in the gaps between the tiles, which will prevent the grout from penetrating to the entire depth of the seam, leaving air voids.
• The elasticity of the solution will also contribute to high-quality filling of the joints, as it will be easily distributed over the recesses and will allow you to work quickly.
• Strength after curing. The grout should not crumble, and when cleaning it should not be washed out.
• Hydrophobicity of the material after curing. The joint filler should repel moisture, not absorb it.
• Resistant to household chemical detergents, since any tiled flooring requires periodic cleaning.
• Aesthetic appearance. The seams between the tiles should be smooth and neat, and the shade of the grout should harmonize as much as possible with

Types of grouts according to the material of manufacture

Today, one- and two-component grouts can be found on sale, produced in the form of dry mixes, ready-made pastes and solutions. They are made on various basic bases:

• Cement.
• Polymer-cement.
• Cement-sand.
• Polyurethane.
• Epoxy and furan, produced on the basis of resins.
• Silicone.

In addition, there are grouts that can be made by hand from alabaster, gypsum, cement and sand, clay and lime, sodium "liquid glass" and other materials.

However, self-production of the material may not be of very high quality, and the aggregate will simply crumble out of the seams under the influence of external factors - humidity and temperature fluctuations. Grouts produced in the factory in compliance with all technologies and with the use of special antiseptic additives are undoubtedly more reliable than those that will be made at home.

Therefore, it is better to purchase ready-made materials, especially since they are quite affordable. And making grout with your own hands is recommended only in extreme cases.

Cement based joint fillers

Cement-based grouts remain the most popular and widely used. They are produced by most well-known companies for the manufacture of building mixtures.

Cement-based grouts can be divided into two types - made with or without sand.

The mixture, which has sand in its composition, is used to seal wide seams, more than 4 millimeters. Narrow gaps are filled with softer fine-grained grouts made in combination with polymer components. In the instructions for use located on the packaging, the manufacturer always indicates for what width of seams a particular composition is intended.

For the manufacture of mixtures, Portland cement is used, which has a fine grinding, due to which, when kneading, the mixture is homogeneous. In addition, in order to achieve the elasticity of the solution, the manufacturer adds lime components to it.

The mixture can be made using water at room temperature, or on a latex basis. The latter will have the name of polymer-cement grout.

A properly mixed mixture will provide a smooth and even high-quality seam, which will not only reliably close the gaps from moisture, but also give accuracy to the entire masonry.

Cement-based mixes can be packed in paper bags or plastic pails.

Cement grouts can have a different color. Some manufacturers make formulations already in color, while others have coloring pigments included in the kit and are added only during manufacture.

If desired, metallic "gold" or "silver" powder can be added to the grout - this will make the appearance of the finish richer and give it a specific elegance.

Silicone grouts

Silicone joint filler is a one-component composition, packed in special plastic cartridges (tubes) and applied to the joints with a construction gun. This type of grout consists of silicone with an acid hardener. The material is, in fact, a sealant. It completely closes the seams, is moisture resistant and elastic, has antiseptic qualities.

Silicone sealant is an excellent joint filler for particularly difficult areas

Such a joint filler is most often used in combination with other grout compositions. Basically, they close gaps only in problem areas, for example, at the junctions of planes or in the area where the bathtub adjoins the tile, since it has a fairly high price and requires a lot of consumption. However, if possible, it can be applied to all seams, and having any width. Its disadvantage can only be called the fact that silicone sealant is produced in a poor variety of shades - mostly white or transparent compounds prevail.

It is easy to fill the seams with silicone sealant, the main thing is to make the right cut on the cap attached to the cartridge - it must match the width of the seam, and evenly press the handle of the construction gun. Then the aggregate will flow into the seams in an even strip.

Resin grouts

• Epoxy grout

Epoxy grouts consist of two components - an epoxy compound and a hardener. The mass of the solution is mixed immediately before application.

This type of grout is characterized by high strength and resistance to external mechanical stress, as well as to high humidity and significant temperature changes.

Epoxy grout has a very long service life. Such a grout does not lose its original appearance for 45–50 years.

After connecting the two components of the grout, it acquires a viscous consistency, and it is quite difficult to work with it. Therefore, if there is no experience in filling the seams, but it is decided to use this particular type of material, then it is better to entrust the work to a professional master.

Epoxy grout is recommended to be used in cases where wide, over 6 mm seams are provided between the tiles. It fills the cavities well and, when cured, acquires a high density, close to the density of the tile itself.

In order for the wall and floor cladding, where epoxy filler was used, to have an aesthetic appearance, you need to choose high-quality ceramic tiles with perfectly even edges and corners, otherwise the grout will not hide, but, on the contrary, will emphasize the flaws of the finishing material.

There is a variant of epoxy filler, which includes in its composition of Portland cement, which plays the role of a reinforcer. Working with such material is identical to mixing and applying cement grout, but as it cures, it acquires the characteristics of a traditional epoxy aggregate.

One of the types of metal powder can be added to the epoxy mixture, traditionally or using Portland cement, if desired. In this case, the tile frame will turn out to be very original, and it will especially look advantageous if the seams are wide, about 6 ÷ 8 mm.

The price of this type of grout is quite high, so it is rarely used at home. Basically, it goes to work when facing surfaces in industrial workshops and laboratory facilities, where its strength, durability, and resistance to aggressive environments are especially needed.

• Furan resin filler

This type of grout is made on the basis of furanol with the addition of fupfilovogo alcohol. The resulting material, when hardened, acquires the highest qualities of resistance to any influences, whether chemical detergents, acids, ultraviolet rays, moisture and temperature. The composition of this material, as well as in the epoxy mixture, does not include water, so it completely lacks the ability to absorb it.

When choosing this filler, you need to know that it is quite difficult to work with it, since a special approach to the preparation of joint surfaces is required.

The disadvantages of this material include its high price and lack of color diversity, since it has only one color - black.

This grout is rarely used to improve tile laying at home, although it should be noted that black is combined with any of the shades of the color scheme. If the tile is of high quality and has no flaws along the edges, then framing it in black will give the finish rigor and clarity.

• Polyurethane grouts

The most convenient type of joint filler to use is a ready-made elastic composition made on the basis of polyurethane resins and water dispersion, without the use of cement. The solution does not require preparation, as it is sold in the form of a ready-made homogeneous paste.

It is suitable for grouting 1-6 mm wide joints between ceramic tiles and glass mosaics.

The composition of the grout is well distributed in the gaps, filling them completely. After the final hardening and polymerization, it is well cleaned of dirt and has a high water-repellent characteristics.

This type of joint filler has a rich range of pastel shades, which allows it to be matched to any tile.

Polyurethane-based grout is suitable for grouting tiles on horizontal and vertical surfaces of the bathroom, as well as for other rooms, including those with heated floors.

Prices for grout for tile joints

Grout for tile joints

Self-preparation of grout for joints

Just in case, it would be nice to know a few recipes for making grout at home, as there are different situations from which you urgently need to find a way out. Knowing the composition and manufacturing technology, it is not difficult at all.

• Cement-sand mixture

The most accessible and simple recipe for making aggregate is the use of cement and fine sand for it. They are taken in proportions of 1:1 or 1:2. The two ingredients are mixed in a dry form, and then water is added to them in small portions. The composition is thoroughly mixed and brought to a homogeneous state - it should have the consistency of thick sour cream.

For the preparation of cement-sand grout, you can use both gray and white cement, and to give the composition a certain shade, coloring pigments are added to it - they can be purchased in dry or dissolved form.

In addition, metal powder can be added to the solution, which will make it indistinguishable from that bought at a hardware store.

To enhance the elasticity of the mixture, latex additives are sometimes added to it. Thus, a classic grout will be obtained, which will be identical to that produced in the factory.

• Gypsum grout

Grout mastic can also be prepared from gypsum, using slaked lime as a plasticizer additive. This ingredient is necessary, because without it, the hardened gypsum will be very fragile.

In addition, lime will prolong the setting time of gypsum grout. Everyone knows that gypsum quickly sets and hardens, so you should not make a large amount of material - it is best to do this in small portions. After using up each portion of the grout, before preparing the next one, the container and spatula should be cleaned well each time, as small and large hardened gypsum particles will interfere with work.

Gypsum is a fragile material and not plastic enough, therefore, under mechanical action, it can crumble. In addition, it is able to absorb moisture, so it is better not to use such a grout in the bathroom.

• alabaster grout

Today, alabaster is not as popular as it used to be, but it continues to be used in construction. This material is a type of gypsum, or more precisely, it is burnt his option.

It has always been used to seal joints between slabs, cracks and depressions in plaster, so before its supply could be found in every home. Alabaster faded into the background after appearing in specialized stores of various building mixtures, which have a narrow purpose and do an excellent job with a variety of problems.

If necessary, it is quite possible to prepare mastic for sealing seams from this material. The process of its preparation is simple and consists in adding water to dry alabaster in small portions. Do not knead a large amount of the mixture, as it, like gypsum, quickly loses its elasticity and hardens.

Alabaster grout is also not very durable - it will not last more than 3-5 years. But temporarily it can be used if there is a need to close the seams, but there is no way to purchase ready-made material.

• clay grout

No need to write off such material as clay. No wonder it has always been used for waterproofing work, as it has good hydrophobic qualities. The preparation of joint filler from this material will create a little more trouble than when mixing it from cement and sand or from gypsum. Clay requires cleaning and wiping, because it may contain various hard inclusions from which it must be freed. Then, it is soaked, as it must acquire plasticity.

Lime is added to the finished, well-mixed clay mass to enhance plasticity and cement to make the grout harden faster. Lime and cement are poured quite a bit. The proportions of the solution are approximately 10:1:1 - the main role in it is still given to clay.

For manufacturing, you can use material of any color, if desired, color and metallic powder are added to it.

Clay will reliably protect the seams from moisture, it is not afraid of temperature changes, and if necessary, it will not be difficult to clean the seams from it in order to replace it with a more professional grout.

How much grouting material is needed?

So, for high-quality finishes, it is best to use special compositions of industrial production. But how many do you need to buy?

Usually, on the packaging of the grout, the manufacturer indicates the average consumption of material per square meter of tiled surface. However, these data are very approximate, since they do not take into account the size of the tile and the specific thickness of the seams.

Probably, everyone understands that the smaller the tile in size, the more it fits per unit area and, therefore, the longer the total length of the seams. And the required amount of grout for tiles of various types can vary significantly.

The general formula can be expressed as follows:

Ry = (L + M) / (L × M) × h × d × k

In the formula, the alphabetic characters are:

Ry- specific consumption of grout per square meter of area;

L and M- respectively, the length and width of the ceramic tiles chosen for laying (mm);

h– tile thickness (mm);

d- the planned width of the gap between the tiles - the thickness of the seam (mm);

k- coefficient taking into account the density of the mortar mixture of the material. It will not be a big mistake to accept its value of approximately 1.7 ÷ 1.8 - for most grout mixtures, the density indicators are exactly the same (in kg / dm³).

The resulting value will only need to be multiplied by the area of ​​​​the surface covered with tiles and, for reliability, “throw” another 10% of the reserve:

Rsum= 1.1×Ry × S

S- the area of ​​the surface to be tiled.

Rsum- the total amount of grout that needs to be purchased (in kilograms).

To make it easier for the reader, a calculator is provided below. calculation, which contains all the above ratios, including the 10% reserve.

Bathroom renovation is an expensive undertaking that can make a big hole in the family budget. But if we are talking about tiles, then it is not at all necessary to completely dismantle the old finish and lay new tiles. Often it is enough just to update the seams between the tiles, and the bathroom will immediately take on a completely different look. There are several ways to do this, ranging from simple and cheap to labor-intensive, but at the same time more aesthetic and reliable.

If the grout between the tiles has changed color and for this reason has lost its attractive appearance, you can try to clean it of dirt. The advantage of this method is that it is quite fast and cheap, the disadvantages include fragility - the seams will darken in two to three months, and the fungus or mold can sprout again in a few weeks. For the procedure, you can choose different methods: household chemicals, folk remedies, or try to remove dirt mechanically.

Cleaning with household chemicals

Household chemicals for removing dirt from the joints between tiles are selected depending on the degree of contamination. If the surface is simply covered with soap and grease, you can take the usual means, and for stubborn dirt, fungus and mold, you will have to use special powders or other compounds based on acids or chlorine.

1. To clean surfaces from simple dirt, CIF, Pemolux, Fairy, Cilit and other similar products are suitable.
2. If you need to use a strong agent, it is recommended to choose special compounds for tiles and tile joints: BOZO, KiiltoClean or Ultra-Stripper. Do not forget that they are strong concentrates, so you need to be very careful when working, wear gloves and ventilate the room well.
3. Chlorine-containing products (Whiteness, Domestos) fight well against mold and fungus.

domestos

Using the above-described means for cleaning the joints between tiles is quite simple. It is necessary to apply them to contaminated places with a sponge or soft brush, rub well, leave to act for 5-10 minutes, then rinse. If strong concentrated products are used to remove dirt, you should first read the manufacturer's instructions.

Important: you should not choose ordinary soap for cleaning tiles, since the alkali contained in it creates a favorable atmosphere for the development of pathogenic microorganisms.

One of the most effective and safest ways to remove grime from tile joints is to use a steam cleaner. This is a device that brings pollution out through high temperature and pressure, after which it remains to simply wipe it off the surface of the tile. The steam cleaner is very easy to operate, and in addition to cleaning the seams, it also destroys pathogenic microorganisms and fungal spores.

Cleaning folk remedies

Folk recipes can also effectively clean the seams of the cladding in the bathroom, returning them to a fresh and aesthetic appearance. For this, soda, citric acid and juice, vinegar, ammonia, ammonia are used.

1. Take a third of a glass of lemon juice, half a glass of soda, 1/4 cup of vinegar, dilute in 7 glasses of water. Apply the resulting mixture to the seams, leave for 10 minutes, then rinse. This product is quite strong, so when using it, you must apply the same precautions as when working with chemicals.
2. Pour 4 tablespoons of soda and 3 tablespoons of hydrogen peroxide into plastic dishes (the proportions can be increased, but the ratio should be the same - four parts of soda and three peroxide). Additionally, you can use the usual household dishwashing detergent, which will remove grease well. Apply a mixture of soda and peroxide to contaminated areas, leave for 2 hours, then brush the surfaces well and rinse off the product.
3. Mix lemon juice, soda, mustard powder and toothpaste in equal parts, you can dilute the composition with a small amount of ammonia. Lubricate the seams with the resulting mixture, clean with a stiff brush (can be left to act for 10-15 minutes).
4. If a fungus or mold has appeared between the tiles, you can prepare the following remedy. Take a tablespoon of ammonia and vinegar, a teaspoon of any fabric softener, 2/3 cup of water, mix, apply as indicated above.

Important: do not use products containing ammonia, vinegar and other acids for colored grout, otherwise it may eventually change its color.

When choosing a composition for cleaning tile joints between, one should take into account not only its cost and other characteristics, but also the features of the tile.

1. If the tile has a glazed surface, acidic products should not be used to combat pollution, as the surface of the cladding may fade.

   "Ezh" acid gel

2. Glass tiles, as well as mosaics, are resistant to aggressive substances, but do not “like” compositions with a high content of alkali and acid.
3. Products with abrasive particles are not recommended in any case, because they leave small scratches on any tile.

mechanical cleaning

The mechanical method of bleaching tile joints is more effective than household products, as it involves removing the top layer of grout along with dirt. The disadvantage is that this process is quite laborious, and after it in the bathroom you will need to do a general cleaning.

It is most convenient to clean the seams between the tiles with a hard kitchen scraper, sandpaper or a spatula - they should go through all the seams well, paying special attention to places where there is mold and fungus. You can use special brushes for metal, but they leave behind noticeable streaks. Another option is to make something like a chisel from a thin tube, the edge of which should be sharpened with a grinder.

Attention: do not use a perforator to remove the top layer of grout - the work will go faster, but there is a high probability of damaging the tile.

Video - How to clean the seams between tiles

Method number 2. Seam painting

Painting the grout between tiles is a more reliable way to update bathroom surfaces (they will stay clean and fresh for about six months). Seams can be treated with ordinary lime, water-based paint, or you can choose a special compound in the store that is designed for these purposes.

How to choose paint for seams?

To update the grout, you can choose a color similar to the shade of the old grout, or experiment with the palette. Light paint hides the flaws of the tiles and harmonizes with any shades of tiles, while dark paint gives the room an original look. Among the most famous manufacturers that produce coloring compositions for seams are Edding 8200, Pufas Frische Fuge, Fuga Fresca.

Attention: when choosing a marker for painting seams, you should pay attention to the thickness of the line - if it is wider than the seams themselves, it will be inconvenient to work with the marker.

It should be noted that when applying paint to the surface, the color may differ significantly from that declared by the manufacturer - especially if the shade of the new composition is much lighter than the shade of the old grout.

When choosing a coloring composition, you should carefully read the instructions on the package - most products are not used for epoxy joints, as well as those filled with silicone or polyurethane sealants.

Step by step instructions for applying paint to the seams

In order for the paint to lie evenly on the surface, and the result of the work to please the eye for a long time, you need to follow a few simple rules.

Step 1. It is good to clean the surface between the tiles (you can use the methods that were described above). If the dirt is strongly ingrained, a mechanical cleaning method should be used, and in the presence of mold and fungus, additionally treat them with an antiseptic.

Step 2 Wait for complete drying (it is impossible to apply paint on a wet surface, as the result of the work will be unsatisfactory).

Step 3 The paint is applied with a thin brush, as carefully as possible, and special attention should be paid to vertical seams where the composition can drain down.

The paint that has fallen on the tile should be wiped off immediately, without waiting for it to dry, with a soft cloth, since it will be impossible to remove it later.

Wipe off excess paint with a rag

Step 4 Wait 24 hours for the composition to dry completely, then evaluate the result and, if necessary, apply one or more coats of paint.

After painting the seams, it is desirable to protect them with a special sealant, which will extend the service life of the composition.

Video - Change the color of grout on a tile

Method number 3. Replacement grout

Replacing the old grout is the most time-consuming, but effective and reliable way to update the interior of the bathroom. To do this, you will have to remove the old grout, and then cover the seams with a fresh composition. This is a simple, but rather time-consuming process, which consists of several stages.

On a note: if the seams are slightly “drowned” (that is, there is a gap of at least half a millimeter between their surface and the tile), and the old mortar is held firmly enough, you can do without removing it and apply a thin layer of grout on top.

Stage one. Removing old grout

Old grout must be removed mechanically - for this it is most convenient to use a special tool called a joint opener. You can take an ordinary spatula or other tool, but you should work very carefully so as not to damage the edges of the tile. If the tile has a raised surface, it is best to protect its surface with masking tape.

Most often, the old grout is easily removed, but in some cases (especially if a cement-based compound was used), it will be necessary to use a special acid cleaner: for example, PUFAS CEMENT-EX or LITOCLEAN PLUS. It is applied with a thin brush to the seams, after which the composition is allowed to dry, and the softened grout is removed very easily.

For reference: don't worry about acid cleaner getting on the surface of the tile. For tiles, it is absolutely harmless, but for the body it can be dangerous, so you need to take care of protecting the skin and mucous membranes.

To avoid small debris and crumbs in the depth of the seams, you should walk along the surfaces with a conventional vacuum cleaner. After that, wash the seams with a normal detergent (non-aggressive) and leave to dry.

Video - How to clean the grout from the seams

Stage two. Blend selection

Grout for tiles is a paste or powder that is mixed with a liquid to the desired consistency. The performance characteristics of the compositions depend on the basis on which they are made: cement or resin.

Another important criterion for choosing a composition is the width of the seam between the tiles. In stores there are compounds for grouting tiles with a seam width of 1 to 15, from 3 to 6 mm, etc. The most popular brands of such products include Ceresit, Litokol, Mapei.

Important: the amount of mortar depends on the size of the tiles, the width and depth of the joints: a bag of dry mix weighing 25 kg is enough to process 50-100 square meters of a surface tiled with standard size tiles (33x33 cm).

If necessary, the mixture for updating the seams can be prepared by hand, but its technical characteristics will be worse than that of the factory one. If the seam between the tiles is not too wide (less than 1.5 mm), you can mix Portland cement with special plasticizers, which are sold in specialized stores, and for joints with a width of more than 1.5 mm, a solution of Portland cement with sand (proportions 1 to 1) is suitable.

How to choose a shade of grout?

In order for the interior of the bathroom to be harmonious and attractive, when choosing a shade of grout, the following points should be considered:

• compositions of light shades allow you to create a holistic surface, visually enlarge the room and hide the flaws of the cladding;
• dark grout is ideal for highlighting individual zones and creating original compositions;
• for flooring that is most exposed to pollution, it is recommended to use black or brown compounds;
• colored grout is best chosen so that it is in harmony with the darkest or lightest shade that is present in the interior;
• bright compositions that stand out strongly against the general background can only be used on perfectly flat surfaces, as they emphasize all the defects in the lining.

Getting everything ready for work

The mixture is most often diluted with water, sometimes with liquid latex (this is indicated in the manufacturer's instructions). Before doing work, the room should be well ventilated to reduce humidity to a minimum, and the grouting process itself is as follows.

Important: if the seams are well cleaned of the old grout and deep enough, you can immediately start applying the new composition. Otherwise, it is recommended to pretreat the joints with a special primer (eg Ceresit CT 99).

Step 4 Dial a little grout on a spatula (keep the tool at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile) and apply it first across the seam, pressing the mixture into the depth, and then along. Do not save the solution - its excess can be removed with sandpaper.

Step 5 Walk along the finished seam with a trowel, leveling and distributing the mixture. Remove the mixture that has fallen on the surface of the tile should be immediately, until it is completely dry - just wipe the tile with a damp cloth.

After the solution has slightly set, you can carry out the jointing - take a piece of cable, press it a little into the seam, run it along the entire length and remove the excess. Upon completion of work, you should wait until the grout is completely hardened (this will take from 24 to 48 hours) and treat the surface with fine sandpaper.

Video - Correct tile grouting

Stage four. Application of protective impregnation

In order for fresh seams to retain an attractive appearance for as long as possible, it is necessary not only to choose and lay the grout correctly, but also to protect it from negative factors. For this, special compositions are used, which are of several types.

It is recommended to apply protective impregnation not earlier than a week after laying a new grout. The surface must be absolutely dry, so you must first ventilate the bathroom well. The impregnation is applied with a thin brush, exactly along the seam - if the composition gets on the tile, it may lose its aesthetic appearance. The best option is to protect the tile with masking tape. The solution should be applied in two layers (the first one is completely absorbed into the seams) with an interval of at least 24 hours.

In order for the tiled grout to retain its attractive appearance for as long as possible, proper care of the tiled surface is important. About once a month, the seams should be well cleaned of grease, soap and limescale, as well as ensure good ventilation of the room and regularly check communications for leaks.

To date, a fairly large number of building and facing materials are used. And at the end of their masonry, the stage of grouting begins. Quite a lot of attention should be paid to the choice of the mixture and to the work process itself, since an improperly selected and organized grout can worsen the appearance of even an ideal laying of stone, tile or brick.

So, today we will talk in more detail about the technical characteristics of a dry and liquid mortar for jointing, grouting brick and other masonry, screeds, weathering the mixture, its GOST, about what dressing of joints on cement mortar is and about the related nuances.

Grouting is the final touch in the laying of materials. It not only gives the surface a finished look, but also has practical significance. Namely, the grout protects the seams from moisture and sudden temperature changes. With it, any masonry will have a longer service life.

If there is a question about the need to grout, then in this case it is important to know that even at first glance, the ideal masonry contains microcracks. They are the optimal place for the accumulation of moisture, fungus and microorganisms, which over time have a detrimental effect not only on the life of the surface and appearance, but also on the microclimate of the room. To avoid such cases, grouting is carried out.

Depending on the components used and their quality, ready-mixed joints may have different technical characteristics. This also applies to the purpose of the grout (for internal or external surfaces, for, or). More accurate information is provided by the manufacturer.

To obtain a mixture of a homogeneous structure, it is recommended to use the compositions of the same production and batch. It is very convenient if you have a special gun for grouting mortar.

About what mixtures are and how to cover after grouting, read on.

About what kind of grout for joints, and what is its peculiarity, the specialist will tell in the video below:

Types of mixture

Depending on the main component, the following types of mixture are distinguished.

Cement

Mixtures are made on the basis of. To improve their fluidity and slow down the setting process, special additives may be included in their composition. When diluting the mixture with a latex plasticizer, the composition increases the water-repellent properties, as well as the level of adhesion.

The solution is used for grouting small joints (up to 5 mm), in other cases it is advisable to choose. The finished composition is poured with water, it is stirred and after 5 minutes of exposure, you can start working with the solution.

Epoxy

The composition of this type includes a hardener (painted) and epoxy resin. This grout is highly resistant to chemicals and moisture.

The viscous structure of the mixture complicates the process of its application and subsequent cleaning from facing materials.

Polymer

The underlying polymers give the finished composition increased frost and moisture resistance, and also improve its plasticity.

The grout hardens without forming cracks, and is well washed off from the masonry surface. Liquid polymers may be included to improve strength.

Furan

The mixture has a rich black color, so it is used only in industrial premises. The furan resins included in its composition make the grout resistant to various kinds of chemicals.

The video below shows a master class on grouting floor tiles:

Restoration of old seams

Grouting on the floor, walls, in the bathroom and other rooms sometimes requires restoration.

• A quick and cheap way to renew old seams is by painting them. This will require paint, a toothbrush or small brush, and chlorine-based bleach. After thorough cleaning of old seams from dirt and dust, bleach is applied for 10 minutes, mixed with water in a ratio of 1:1. After removing it from the surface, paint can be applied. This method of restoration is effective for six months.
• For a longer lasting result, it is necessary to replace the old grout with a new one. You will need a seam opener and a special tool for creating them, a vacuum cleaner, a rubber spatula and a brush. Old seams are removed with an opener, you can also use a knife or a screwdriver. New grout is applied with a rubber spatula.
• If the color of the grout does not match the color scheme of the facing material, you can change it by adding color. This paste is added to the grout solution and mixed thoroughly. To select the desired shade, the color scheme is poured into the mixture in small parts.

Quite popular mixtures for grouting, filling joints are Atlas, Quick mix, which have good technical characteristics.

How to remove grout

When replacing grout for joints, the old one is completely removed. If there is no special tool, you can use a construction knife. Its choice depends on the experience of the master and the frequency of use. It is important that the blade does not scratch the facing material.

When the old grout is removed, the joints are cleaned with a brush and brush or a portable vacuum cleaner. Next, the furrows are covered with new grout.

From the video below you will learn how to remove grout from tile joints: