It often happens that the original design of the fireplace, which is complicated in the house, does not withstand operation due to the fact that some fire safety features are not taken into account. In particular, today it is categorically not recommended to use fireplace complexes with an open source of flame. In addition, open-hearth fireplaces are much more difficult to keep clean and, in addition, such a fireplace becomes a source of soot for the whole house, especially if it is fired when the temperature outside is not cold enough. Therefore, many people ask to repair the fireplace - cut the door and make the firebox closed.

Behind the apparent simplicity of the task, there are many subtleties, which we will talk about today.

Step 1. Preparatory stage

Initially, it is necessary to measure the width of the fireplace opening. The fact is that the industry does not produce glass doors wider than 70 cm in width. Such heat-resistant glass will be heavy enough that a jamb of masonry or a fireplace cassette may not hold up, especially if you often overheat the fireplace with frequent use. Therefore, stove makers try to make the opening no wider than 50 - 55 cm. It is under this opening that you can purchase a firebox door in any specialized store.

The appearance of the door.

For a complete fireplace repair, we need:

• "Bulgarian" with a cutting wheel for ceramics;
• asbestos thread 3 meters long;
• oven mixture;
• building level;
• fastening tape.

Step 2. Determine the scope of work

We were very lucky that the firebox opening turned out to be somewhat already given the width of the door, this will allow us to make the necessary grooves to insert the door into the right place.

First of all, we remove the glass from the door to avoid unforeseen situations. Most often, this operation can be performed by pressing the clamping bolts on the back of the door. Then, with an assistant, we attach the door to the edge of the fireplace so that it covers the entire surface of the firebox. And draw a cut line with a pencil.

The arch laid out in the original version will add some work and, in addition, a very beautiful decorative element, so our task is not to spoil this decor element and insert the furnace door as harmoniously as possible.

Step 3. Making a Groove

If you can think of the dirtiest and dustiest job, then cutting bricks in an enclosed space is one. Usually, one worker thins the seam, and the other pours water into the groove, but the power of the grinder was not enough, so I had to do it dry.

We start grooving.

The furnace door, which we ordered in order to insert it into the fireplace.

A prerequisite for work is that the worker making the seam must work in glasses and a respirator.

We make a groove along the entire length of the perimeter and to the depth of the thickness of the door, periodically checking the depth of the seam with a metal saw.

After the seam along the perimeter has been passed, we make a second cut from the inside of the furnace in order to remove part of the brick and the firebox door would fall into place. We trim the places where the chipped brick occurred with a chisel.

Step 5. Insert the door

After the groove is fully prepared, we lean the door against the edges of the firebox. Ideally, if she completely lay down in her place. However, more often it happens that somewhere the required thickness is not propylene or a part of the brick is not taken out in the corner. Therefore, all such minor flaws are removed manually.

Preliminary adjustment of the oven door is in progress.

Pay attention to the face of the worker, it is all in brick dust, if you work without a respirator, it will all be in your lungs.

After the door is installed and its opanelka is precisely pressed against the masonry, we begin work on attaching it to the walls of the fireplace.

We fasten the fastening tape to the door. We make at least four fasteners, the most ideal if you do this with steel rivets.

After the fasteners are ready, we knead the oven mixture for laying the mortar.

We prepare so much solution that we can work out in half an hour of work. Be sure to mix it with the help of a "mixer" for solutions, the speed should be sufficient so that there are no large lumps of unmixed mixture left.

We take an asbestos cord and dip it into the solution of the furnace mixture. Then carefully wrap it around the perimeter of the firebox.

We wrap the furnace door with impregnated asbestos cord.

We make a couple of full turns and try to make the cord turn into a single whole, for this we tap on it with a rubber mallet.

We insert the door into place, fasten it to the dowels for ceramics, and put the cord in the places that are necessary to create perfect tightness of the entire firebox.

A noticeable seam has formed on the left, which must be “missed”.

It is best to plow with an ordinary screwdriver, periodically correcting the thickness of the tip.

That's all, after all the seams are pierced with an asbestos rope with a solution of the furnace mixture, we let the solution grab and after a couple of days we make a trial, short-term firebox. We look at the tightness and determine the places where smoke can come out.

The only drawback of such work was an insufficient hole for the blower, I had to enlarge it with a puncher. It took us three hours to repair the fireplace (installing the glass door), I hope that everything will work out for you too!

Repair of stoves and fireplaces, as a rule, is carried out by specialists with experience in this field. However, many owners prefer to do it themselves in order to save money. This is quite acceptable, especially if the stove or fireplace was made by hand. Renovation can include completely different activities. Depending on the complexity of these activities, repairs can be small (current), medium and large (capital). What is meant by each of these types of repair will be described below.

Scheme of the device of the fireplace and the ordering of the masonry.

Minor fireplace or stove repairs

The current repair of a fireplace or stove is done by hand most often. This is part of the ongoing operational activities. Minor repairs are considered to be the sealing of small cracks, the replacement of valves, doors, grates or individual bricks. Even when performing such simple repairs, it is necessary to follow a certain procedure and some rules, thanks to which the operation of the stove or fireplace will remain safe.

Types of furnace doors: A. leaky (1. frame; 2. clamps; 3. door; 4. handle); B. sealed (1. door; 2. handle with screw; 3. rail; 4. latch; 5. door frame; 6. screen; 7. clamps).

When replacing or strengthening the fixation of the furnace door, it is necessary to remove it with the frame from the masonry. At the same time, the masonry is partially disassembled. Be sure to pay attention to the health of the mounting tabs, in most cases it is better to replace them. When reinstalling the corrected door or when installing a new one, it is necessary to carefully remove the old masonry mortar, moisten the bricks abundantly, and install the door so that the mounting tab is exactly in the masonry seam. The masonry is restored, the seams and all existing cracks are filled with mortar.

One of the simplest repairs is the replacement of the grate. To do this, it is enough to remove the old one, remove the ash from the vacated space and install new grate bars. This should leave a small gap, which then needs to be filled with sand.

When diagnosing a fireplace or stove, it is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the pre-furnace sheets. At the slightest sign of wear, they must be replaced, since these elements are the key to the fire safety of the furnace structure. To do this, you need to remove the old sheet, lay sheet asbestos in its place, and on top - a new, roofing steel, which is fixed with carnations.

If necessary, close up small cracks, you need to clear the place of their formation by removing the old solution from it.

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Repair of medium complexity

Medium repairs include the elimination of pipe damage, the elimination of blockages in the chimney and similar work that requires certain building skills. Blockage formation is determined by the heating of the furnace walls, the temperature of which will be noticeably lower at the blockage site. To eliminate it, you need to clean it through special holes or a firebox. If the blockage remains inaccessible, then it is necessary to disassemble the masonry, clean the chimney and restore the masonry of the furnace walls and internal partitions.

Grate grates (grate bars): a - basket; b - the correct position of the lattice; c - incorrect position of the lattice.

The head of the chimney can also become unusable under the influence of precipitation. In this case, the damaged area is disassembled, the old mortar is removed and a new laying is carried out on cement mortar with careful dressing of the seams. At the same time, the upper part of the pipe is leveled with a solution and slightly beveled outwards.

If cracks appear in the places of fire cutting, then the old masonry must be replaced with a new one according to the same principle. At the same time, it is recommended to fix the door frames as securely as possible: this will prevent the occurrence of such problems in the future.

Do-it-yourself repair of an old furnace with your own hands will significantly extend its service life and save you from additional costs.

This is how the old stove looks like after repair - the brickwork and the hob, the upper and lower doors have been replaced

To avoid an accelerated failure of the furnace, you should familiarize yourself with the rules for its safe operation - this will help you quickly cope with emerging malfunctions.

Monitoring the technical condition of the furnace

Like any equipment, the furnace needs periodic inspections, current, medium and major repairs. The complexity of the upcoming repair depends on how serious the internal and external damage is. Due to the special climatic conditions, it is necessary to heat the stove for most of the year, especially if you use it for cooking. Therefore, the frequency of inspections is an important component of the quality and safe use of the oven.

To prevent the occurrence of fires, fires, carbon monoxide poisoning, it is necessary to repair the old stove in time before the start of the heating season. Before that, conduct a complete examination of all components, carefully checking the condition:

• metal flooring in front of the firebox;
• bases and walls;
• furnaces, including the reliability of the lower and upper doors, grate, ash tray;
• hob;
• chimney;
• furnace damper used to adjust the draft in the furnace and in the chimney;
• state of masonry and masonry joints.

Video: do-it-yourself brick oven repair

Important: Detected malfunctions and blockages should be eliminated before the start of the heating season - this will help to avoid problems during the operation of the stove.

Chimney inspection and repair

The basis of the safety of the furnace is the correct design and operation of the chimney. The chimney must be freed from accumulations of soot, debris, pieces of crumbled clay and bricks, foreign random objects - this is necessary for the free passage of exhaust air flows containing smoke and other combustion products.

For cleaning, special tools are used:

• telescopic (sliding) brushes specially designed for this purpose;
• special vacuum cleaners with which soot can be removed, however, vacuum cleaners are ineffective for large blockages;
• dry cleaning with liquid or powder products, the application of which on hot surfaces leads to the separation of soot accumulations.

All these chimney cleaners require some skill, so it is better to entrust such responsible work to professionals.

Cleaning the chimney using a special tool - brushes with a telescopic extension

Attention: The cleanliness of the smoke exhaust system of the furnace is especially important for the complete removal of carbon monoxide from the furnace - carbon monoxide (CO), which is formed in the event of incomplete combustion of fuel, its presence in the air in an amount of 0.1% CO is deadly to human health.

When checking the technical condition of the chimney, you should pay attention to the quality of the thermal insulation of the chimney in the places where it passes through the ceiling and roof ceilings - damage to the insulation layers can lead to overheating of the ceiling material and its ignition.

If during the inspection of the chimney one finds internal and external cracks, chips, cracking, etc., it will be necessary to repair the smoke channels, which is much more complicated due to the considerable length and small cross section of the chimney.

Depending on the extent of damage, it may be necessary to:

• In the dismantling of the chimney with the subsequent restoration of brickwork (in case of destruction of more than 20%).
• In partial replacement - damaged knockout bricks are removed, new ones are laid on the previously cleaned place, on the mortar (in the proportion: 1 part of cement, 0.5 parts of lime, 2.5 parts of sand). For greater strength, you can perform additional lining of the chimney (Fig. 4).
• In the installation of sleeves in smoke channels. This method is the most promising - steel or ceramic pipes (sleeves) installed inside the old chimney are easily cleaned of soot, are not subject to cracking and chipping, which greatly facilitates the operation of the chimney.
• Internal lining - performed in case of cracks on the surface of the walls of the chimney.

Elimination of defects

When inspecting an old furnace, the following defects are most often found:

• Damaged seams and cracks in the brickwork, which are more visible if the stove is fired first. As a result of broken masonry and large cracks, flue gases may enter the room - crack sealing will be required (Fig. 5).

• To restore the normal functioning of the firebox, the seams are pre-soaked with water, cleared to a depth of 2-3 cm and additionally wetted, after which they should be densely filled with clay mortar. It is recommended to add table salt to the clay mortar (0.5 kg per bucket of mortar) - this will protect the seams from cracking. Strengthening the frame of brickwork can be done by overlaying it with ceramic refractory tiles.
• The appearance of rust on the metal flooring in front of the firebox - the thinned flooring should also be replaced by laying an asbestos sheet under it.
• Weakening and loosening of the frame of the furnace door and the blower door, gaps between the hob and the brickwork of the furnace, resulting from thermal and mechanical effects. Here, too, furnace repairs will be needed in the places of their contact with brickwork, which must be cleared by removing the old mortar. After rinsing, a heat-resistant adhesive diluted 1:1 with water is applied to the cleaned areas. An asbestos or ceramic cord must be laid between the brickwork and the frame, the gaps must be completely filled with mortar (Fig. 6).

• To fix the hob, it must first be removed - it is easier to do this when the stove is heated, prying it with a crowbar or an ax (Fig. 7). After that, in the same way as in paragraph 4, prepare the surfaces by sealing the places for laying with basalt felt.

People who have a summer house or a country house, at least once, but dreamed of their own fireplace. This noble item gives not only comfort, warmth, but also serves as a real decoration. However, such a massive item needs proper maintenance. It is not always possible to avoid malfunctions in its operation. Sometimes you have to resort to the help of professionals. But in a house where a skilled craftsman lives, you can easily repair fireplaces with your own hands.

Remember the process of the initial laying of the fireplace

It is very good if you initially built a fireplace with your own hands, or personally controlled the process of laying each brick. Thus, in this way, it will be much easier to fix the malfunction.

When the laying process took place, it probably occurred to you that some part of the system might break, the masonry might crack, the chimney might clog, etc. These assumptions are not to be feared. It is necessary to initially carry out an analysis of the potential reliability of the future design in order to make the most effective repair if necessary.

Over time, problems and malfunctions will still occur. They need to be eliminated in a timely manner, which is called "hot pursuit". And, most importantly, this is possible without even resorting to the services of specialists.

What can you do yourself?

It is worth noting that the independent troubleshooting of the fireplace is limited to some types of repair work. Advanced cases require a professional approach, or none at all. Unfortunately, the diagnosis of a complete malfunction can also be made for fireplaces.

• Masking, covering up the cracks formed on the brickwork;
• Whitewash;
• Replacement of brick elements;
• Strengthening the firebox doors;
• Replacing old grates with new ones;
• Repair of blower doors;
• Damper repair;
• Strengthening tiles;
• Valve repair;
• Elimination of gaps between the massif of the fireplace and the cast iron stove;
• Elimination of blockages in the chimney system.

As you can see, there are a lot of small jobs. Fortunately, there are many more of them than serious and complex ones.

But those types of work that require more thorough preparation, and at least a little experience in repairing fireplaces:

• Correction of water heating boxes;
• Correction of burned-out cast-iron plates;
• Complete replacement of a broken tile
• Elimination of blockages in the chimney system;
• Elimination of a general malfunction of the chimney system;
• Replacing the lining of the fuel chamber.

The complexity of the repair

The above types of work are usually attributed to easy and medium degrees of difficulty. As for the light types, they can be entrusted to any person who knows how to handle tools, giving him a few recommendations. Simple repairs can also be called current. They are simply necessary for the fireplace during its many years of operation.

Medium types of repair work require familiarization and memorization of the instructions. But it can also be mastered by every owner of the fireplace.

There is also a third degree of complexity - a major repair. This is where you need to turn to the experts. However, if you are used to doing everything with your own hands, then at least consult with professionals in the repair of heating fireplace systems.

Ongoing renovations

For example, replacing the firebox door requires special skills. Having mastered which, you can easily do such work yourself. The firebox door is carefully removed from the masonry at the same time as the frame. This must be done without affecting the main array. If you notice that the door legs have become unusable, they should also be replaced.

Next, the masonry site is cleaned with ordinary water, the door with the frame is installed back. After such a process, seams are often formed that need to be embroidered. In place between the door and its frame, for safety reasons, it is recommended to leave a small gap.

Another type of current repair is the sealing of cracks in fireplace tiles. Here you need a plaster solution. Fireplace construction specialists recommend using a solution based on aluminum and potassium alum. You can also use a ground solution by mixing it with egg white.

If the tiles are very old, then they need a complete replacement. After removing the old elements, the vacated space is cleared. On the cleared place, you need to install a ramp with a clay-crushed stone solution. And only a new element of the tile is installed on the ramp.

Medium repair

The average repair is focused on fixing more serious problems than the current one. However, most manage to cope with it on their own. For example, to eliminate the blockage, you need to use a simple wire. With its help, you can remove the blockage.

Be sure to change the lower part of the heating chamber in time. To do this, you must first sort the brick. The lower part of the heating chamber is particularly susceptible to wear. As a result of the next wear, the process of fuel combustion is incomplete. The seams of the main array are filled with crushed stone or sand. Otherwise, gases will enter the dwelling.

It is very important to make these types of repairs in a timely manner.

Installation of fireplace portals

Installing a portal on a fireplace also applies to the types of fireplace repairs. Portals of fireplaces come in different types. Most preferred are polyurethane. The main thing is also to make the right choice of heating system. It is worth paying attention to the company Mr. fireplace. Polyurethane fireplaces are safer and may require fewer repairs. In addition, they are extremely difficult to disable.

It is not difficult to carry out a hand-made installation of polyurethane portals. There are two ways to install this.

1. Installation of polyurethane on the cement composition using glue and adhesive mixture;
2. Installation of polyurethane by means of fasteners on self-tapping screws or screws.

It should be noted that it is easier to independently install the portal, guided by method No. 1.

To carry out the installation in the first way, you must:

• Clean the surface;
• Apply glue evenly to the surface of the wall;
• Attach the stucco and press it against the wall in such a way as to control the correctness of the patterns of the elements without disturbing the decor of the fireplace;
• Leave to dry.

Mounting details

It is quite easy to install polyurethane portals. But you need to observe some nuances in the process of work:

• Particular attention should be paid to the preparatory work to clean the surface from dirt and dust. Important! It should be not only clean and dry, but also as smooth as possible. Therefore, plastering work is indispensable;
• Polyurethane elements must be kept in the room for at least 24 hours before installation. This is necessary to adapt the finishing material;
• Before installing the material, it is better to lay out the pattern of the elements on the floor. Fireplaces, the contours of which are not executed correctly, will eventually have a not quite aesthetic appearance.

The most important thing to remember is that you need to take care of your fireplaces! After all, they are your family cozy hearth! There are types of fireplaces that will not tolerate a bad or indifferent attitude towards them at all. For example, Elite fireplaces are the dream of the owner of a country house. And if it came true, it is extremely important to prevent this work of fireplace art from becoming unusable. All rules for its proper use must be observed.

And then, you will know firsthand how pleasant it is to spend the evenings near a crackling cozy hearth in the circle of family, relatives, loved ones. The fireplace is one of a kind. It seems to merge with the mood, atmosphere, spirit of others. A luxurious piece of furniture can contribute to the atmosphere of romance, soulful, family atmosphere, harmony and tranquility.

This item is also a full-fledged resident of the house, taking care of you and your family. It gives you warmth, so you need to take care of it, and if you need to treat it, providing timely repair assistance.

A fireplace, like a stove, often requires professional maintenance and sometimes repairs. However, do not rush to call the master: you can do something yourself.

Current service

• WE CLEAN THE GLASS OF THE DOOR

Sooner or later, carbon deposits form on the inside of the fireplace glass. You can remove it in several ways.

Method one. We moisten an ordinary household sponge with water, after which we roll it in the ashes from the combustion chamber. Gently, trying not to press hard, wipe the door glass. Repeat the procedure several times until the soot begins to wash off. Then wipe dry with toilet paper or paper towels.

Method two. Instead of ash, we will use a tool for cleaning gas stoves from scale. We apply it on the glass in the form of abundant foam, wash off the soot and wipe it with a clean cloth.

Method three. It implies the use of a chemical grease remover for glass-ceramic surfaces. We spray it on the most polluted places and after 5 minutes wash off the soot along with foam.

• CHANGING THE GRATE

Even a child can cope with this problem. We carefully take out the old, burnt-out grate from the cooled fireplace, having previously cleaned it of ash. We put in its place a new one of the same size and the same configuration. If the lattice rests on brick ledges, we check their condition: they must be even and not have any damage. Otherwise, they will have to be disassembled, and the grate placed on a special stand, otherwise the fuel will burn unevenly and efficiency
fireplace will decrease.

• REMOVE SOOT FROM THE CHIMNEY

As long as the thickness of soot in the chimney has not exceeded a critical level and does not particularly affect the operation of the fireplace, its further deposition can be prevented by folk methods. In particular, this is the use of table salt: the products of its combustion do not allow soot to accumulate on the walls of the chimney. Potato peelings are also used, which, when burned, release starch, as a result of which the soot softens and falls down. Another way is to heat the fireplace with aspen or alder wood. Their combustion is accompanied by such a high temperature that soot burns out.

However, you can also use special tools for cleaning chimneys. They are put into the furnace along with firewood, and under the influence of high temperatures, these substances rise through the chimney and destroy soot, being absolutely safe for humans and the environment.

Minor repairs

• PLUGING CRACKS

Over time, cracks often appear in the masonry of a brick or foam concrete fireplace. This happens due to the fact that in the process of heating and cooling the material changes its volume. For putty cracks, special compositions based on liquid glass are well suited. This may be a mixture of Polish production "POLY-R", SOUDAL sealant, other similar compositions for furnace work. Before applying the product, the damaged surface must be thoroughly cleaned of grease, dust and soot. To do this, you can use acetone or any other solvent. When it comes to repairing seams, first of all, you should remove the remnants of the old solution.

For larger-scale work, it is advisable to purchase a ready-made solution of fireclay mortar, which is sold in bags of 25-50 kg. For strength, Portland cement is added to the mixture, but not more than 15% of the total mass of the solution.

ATTENTION! Repairs are best done with a heated fireplace.

• CLEAN THE CHIMNEY

In the event that deposits inside the chimney begin to impair draft, it is necessary to perform mechanical cleaning. To do this, use a special tool: scrapers, brushes or a round ruff, on which a metal core is suspended. We will select the tool based on the configuration of the chimney: for example, if it is round, a ruff is best, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the diameter of the chimney. For a rectangular channel, it is more convenient to use a square metal brush.

Before you start cleaning, make sure that all the doors of the fireplace and chimney inside the house are closed.

Having fixed on the roof with a safety belt, we lower the tool into the chimney and begin to clean the walls of soot by moving the brush up and down. If during the cleaning process some kind of congestion is found, we will break it with the help of the kernel.

Sometimes climbing onto the roof is not necessary: ​​a straight chimney serving an open-type fireplace can be cleaned through the firebox. In this case, you will need a brush with a long handle.

• INSTALLING THE PORTAL

A finished fireplace insert, as a rule, needs additional design. You can improve its appearance with the help of a polyurethane portal purchased in a store. Mounting such a frame is much easier than assembling a portal from plaster or wood.

First of all, lay out all the parts of the cladding on the floor and glue them together according to the instructions. Now let's start the installation. We attach the assembled structure to the wall and mark the outline of the future fireplace with a pencil. We apply the adhesive composition to the base and gently press the portal to it for one or two minutes until the glue sets.

ATTENTION! Polyurethane is afraid of open fire, so portals made of this material are only suitable for closed-type fireplaces.

• CHANGE GLASS

Cracked firebox glass must be replaced. When choosing a new glass, you need to keep in mind that it must be a heat-resistant material that can withstand temperatures up to 550 ° C for a long time. If we talk about a short-term increase in thermal load, then for a single-layer structure, the load limit should be at least 750 ° C, and for a multi-layer structure - 1000 ° C. Optimum thickness of fire-resistant glass for a fire chamber - 4-5 mm.

The glass is attached to the back of the door using pressure plates, which are fixed with bolts. To pull out the old glass, just unscrew the bolts slightly and loosen the plates. When installing a new one, we perform the entire procedure in reverse order: we insert the glass, press it with plates and tighten the bolts.

Neither rain nor snow will get into the pipe if it is protected from above with a small gable visor. Atmospheric precipitation should not affect the operation of the fireplace and the functioning of the chimney. In addition, a canopy over the pipe will not allow birds to build a nest on it, which sometimes happens during a long absence of the owners. However, foreign objects sometimes get into the chimney (for example, bricks falling out of the masonry), so it is advisable to check it before the start of each heating season.

Do not burn household waste in the fireplace - plastic packaging, leaves and other waste! Another prohibition concerns the use of gasoline and other flammable liquids for ignition: the use of these products is fraught with a fire in the chimney. Overheating of the fireplace should not be allowed either: when laying firewood, it is necessary to ensure that they fill the firebox by no more than one third of its volume. When laying firewood, an air gap of 1 cm should be left between them, otherwise the fireplace will smoke. The recommended log thickness is 7-10 cm.

When igniting the fireplace, reverse draft is not allowed: air flows should not go from the fireplace to the room, but vice versa - from the room to the fireplace, and then to the chimney. To prevent smoke from entering the room, all chimney flaps should be opened. If the ash pan is clogged with combustion waste, it will have to be cleaned, otherwise a sufficient amount of air will not enter the combustion chamber.

The time of continuous operation of the device is always regulated by the manufacturer of the furnace, therefore, the operation of the fireplace in a longer mode can lead to its rapid failure.

To prevent soot from settling on the chimney, the fireplace should be heated with hardwood with a minimum resin content. It can be, for example, alder and aspen (but not birch) - they burn out completely, leaving no soot. In addition, hard rocks burn slowly.

Recently cut wood is too wet for a fireplace, so it must be dried outside under a canopy for a year (or a little more).

Anthracite also belongs to materials that almost do not form soot during combustion.

GAS FIREPLACE

The fireplace of today is neither wood-burning nor electric. Modern fireplace - gas. Instead of logs, it contains a burner, to which, for supporters of heating classics, refractory dummies of firewood, coals and ash are attached, imitating real ones with maximum realism.

Usually the burner is hidden in a cast-iron case under tempered glass. For the circulation of warm and cold air, ventilation grilles are provided on the fireplace portal. It is forbidden to operate a gas firebox without lining: a violation of air exchange can cause a fire.

The top of the gas fireplace acts as a smoke box. Combustion products enter the exhaust channel and exit into the chimney. And the “accordion” of ribs on the body of the smoke box serves to enhance heat transfer, heat losses in such a fireplace are only 15%, while in a wood-burning fireplace they reach 70%. The advantage of gas fireplaces is their efficiency, which is achieved due to forced air exchange, a sealed combustion chamber and efficient removal of combustion products in an isolated scheme. When choosing a fireplace on gas, it is important to remember that the chimney in it serves not only for draft, but also for the removal of water vapor.

Note that gas fireplaces cannot be installed in the apartment!

COST OF SOME SERVICE ORGANIZATIONS

• Fireplace chimney cleaning: 5000-12000 rubles.
• Installation of the fireplace portal: 25,000 rubles.
• Firebox glass replacement: from 5000 rubles.
• Chimney repair: from 5000 rubles.

Savings from independent work: 5000-25000 rubles.