Do-it-yourself scaffolding from a profile pipe. Do-it-yourself scaffolding: a reliable assistant for repair work. Self-tapping screws and nails

All high-altitude work is characterized by increased complexity, and in this case it is definitely impossible to do without special devices. One of them is scaffolding. Their price is calculated in rubles / m², and even in relation to the cheapest set (frame) is about 140 - 145. Besides, where to put it then? Rent can also be expensive (from 55) if the repair or construction drags on for a long time, which usually happens in practice.

Plus - some problems with the transportation of forests, since personal transport is not suitable for these purposes. In the field of low-rise buildings (for the private sector), the best solution is to make them yourself.

There are opinions that it is better (and cheaper) to rent metal and wood scaffolding than to assemble it yourself. The main argument is that buying pipes will cost more. And such judgments are supported by economic calculations. Apparently, the authors of such comments live in city apartments and have a rather vague idea of ​​what it is like to maintain their home in proper condition (both the front part and the premises, the height of which, as a rule, exceeds the typical one). But the owner has to do this regularly.

Moreover, the combination of materials such as metal (skeleton) and boards (flooring at each level) is considered optimal. One of the advantages of wooden scaffolding is (the second is the low final cost) that the structure is easily disassembled after construction (repair) is completed, and the material is used for other economic purposes. But there is also a significant disadvantage - the limitation in carrying capacity.

That is, on such a device, only such work as facade design (painting, siding), ceiling treatment, plastering and a number of others can be carried out. When erecting brickwork or at the same time staying at a height of several people, wooden scaffolding is unsuitable. But the assembly of pipes and boards is universal in use.

The only difficulty is in the correct choice of the scaffolding option and the method of fastening all structural elements. The cost of manufacturing such multi-level scaffolds is justified only if they can be disassembled and stored in a barn (on site or elsewhere) until the next use. But spending money on a non-separable model, welded, is irrational, and it is unlikely that anyone will do this. It is impossible not to take into account such factors as the complexity of manufacturing, the strength of the structure and its stability.

Brief description of the types of scaffolding

Clamp. Plus - the ability to change the geometry of the skeleton along any of the axes. Minus - the complexity of the installation / dismantling of the structure. In addition, if necessary, to increase the bearing capacity, you will have to buy fasteners. Only one wire, especially a rope, in this case is not enough.

Wedge. Differ from all similar models in application in the increased reliability and durability. But the manufacturing costs are immeasurably higher (primarily for holders). For the private sector - not the best option.

Pin. Plus - low weight with the ability to withstand a significant load; ease of assembly (albeit relative). Minus - high cost; increased pressure on the soil. A number of additional measures need to be taken to ensure sustainability. As a rule, such forests are not used in the private sector. The main reason is the complexity of manufacturing. Here you need accurate calculations and a welding machine.

Frame. Plus - the weight of the structure is small, but with proper drawing up and assembly, such scaffolding is able to "carry" a load of up to 200 kg / m². The height restriction of 50 m for a private building does not matter much. It is this model in the field of individual development that is considered the best.

What you need

It is pointless to designate the exact linear values ​​​​of structural elements - they simply cannot be. The dimensions of scaffolding are selected based on the specifics of the work being carried out, the availability of space for their installation, the number of masters at the same time at the height, and a number of other parameters.

All numerical values ​​are in mm.

By material:

• Duralumin. It costs less than steel, but such scaffolding is suitable only for low structures used for finishing work. When erecting masonry, they will not work because of the low bearing capacity.
• Steel. Such scaffolding for the private sector is versatile in use. The explanation is quite understandable - the high strength and reliability of the frame.

By section:

• Vertical racks. Profile pipe 30 x 30.
• Spacers (diagonal, horizontal). The pipe is round at 15.
• Inserts (supports for fencing and decking). Profile 25 x 25.

To ensure sufficient strength of scaffolding flooring - not lower than "magpie".

• Length - from 1600 to 2000.
• Width - within 1000.
• Height - 1550.

Those home craftsmen who are not satisfied with the given dimensions for some reason can take the following drawings as a basis.

Fasteners

• Bolts + nuts + washers + Grover - for fastening metal elements.
• Self-tapping screws (for metal) - for fixing the boards at the place of laying.

The main stages of manufacture

Preparing details. Pipes are cut first. Even if a drawing has been drawn up, there is no need to rush with the boards. After assembling the skeleton of scaffolding, their dimensions will still have to be specified. This will save you from unnecessary work if you need to fit pre-prepared flooring elements in place. The ends of round pipes (about 80) are flattened so that you can then drill holes for fasteners. To facilitate such a “pressing”, it is worth making an axial cut (metal cut) to the specified length.

• Preparation of "horizontals". Before using them in the assembly of the frame, inserts from the profile should be welded to each pipe in the places indicated on the drawing.
• Preparation of "verticals". To ensure greater stability of the racks, a so-called mounting heel is welded at one end of each. Although it can be made removable - plate + profile section.
• Drilling holes in structural elements. Particular attention - vertical and horizontal (racks, jumpers). Mismatches will lead to distortions. Therefore, the part will have to be definitely changed, and this is an irrational waste of materials.
• Display racks. The main thing at this stage is to maintain their compliance with the vertical plane. The slightest distortion will significantly complicate the further assembly of scaffolding and drastically reduce their bearing capacity. Yes, and the convenience of working on them is unlikely to add. That is why all horizontal ties must be extremely identical (in length).
• Structural reinforcement. Diagonal spacers are used for this. The peculiarity of their fastening is in symmetry. If this condition is met, then the entire load on scaffolding will be distributed more evenly over the entire area.
• Making stairs. The practice of using homemade scaffolding shows that portable models are preferable to stationary ones. For effective work (in relation to the private sector), one removable ladder is enough. It is small in size, easy to remove and install in another place if necessary. The material is the same - a pipe.
• Arrangement of scaffolding flooring. The boards are laid last, after the final adjustment to size. They are attached to the welded inserts with self-tapping screws.

To ensure maximum stability of scaffolding, it is necessary:

• prepare "shoes" with which the structure is leveled at the installation site. It is easy to make them from boards with your own hands; preferably several pieces and different thicknesses. In the future, this will simplify the process of adjusting the position of forests relative to the ground;
• to process the soil in the area where they are planned to be used. It is leveled (if necessary) and compacted. This ensures that during operation there will be no shrinkage of the soil (under load) and distortion of the scaffolding.
• Most often, one section is not enough. In this case, more is done - two, three. To connect them into a single assembly, it is necessary to prepare adapters. The same profile (30 x 30) will do, which is cut into pieces of 100 and welded to the racks. U-shaped metal earrings can be used to fix the sections. In order for the fastening to be as reliable as possible, a pipe should also be taken for them, but with a slightly smaller section (25 x 25) or diameter.

If you carefully understand the manufacturing process, it turns out that there is nothing complicated in assembling scaffolding. The main thing is the correct calculation and accuracy.

Building a house is a responsible undertaking that requires a deliberate approach, materials, tools and fixtures. It is to the latter that scaffolding can be considered. These structures serve to make it possible to do finishing work at high altitude.

Scaffolding allows at a height of 4 to 10 meters to carry out the following work:

• sew gables,
• make siding,
• install a drain and so on.

In fact, finishing work is more than enough. Moreover, scaffolding can be made above 10 meters, but there is one thing, such a design requires industrial capacity and appropriate engineering knowledge. It is unlikely that you will be able to make it with your own hands in accordance with all standards.

Attention ! You must be aware that working on scaffolding involves risks. Therefore, their strength should not be in doubt.

Many people decide to make scaffolding with their own hands because renting them is still a very expensive pleasure. Not only that, you have to pay a lot for shipping. Taking into account the fact that finishing work can last about several months, it is more profitable to build the structure yourself.

Choosing a material

Basically, there are only two alternatives. You can make scaffolding with your own hands from metal or wood. And each option has both its pros and cons.

Let's take metal scaffolding as an example. Making them by hand is not so easy. Moreover, it requires special equipment and materials, which most likely will have to be bought. But at the same time, this type of construction has simply incredible stability and service life. It allows you to do the most complex work at a considerable height.

Advice ! After you finish the work, metal scaffolding can be rented out. In extreme cases, they can be untwisted and put in the garage.

Based on the experience of people who have encountered this issue, the majority is inclined to believe that metal scaffolding can only be made if you have the necessary metal. The purchase is quite costly. But if you want to make a business out of it, the costs have to pay off.

Do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood is quite simple. In addition, after use, they can be easily disassembled, and the boards, for example, can be burned in a fireplace or stove. In fact, this is a one-time building that is destroyed after one cycle of operation or given to a neighbor.

Of course, in terms of reliability, wooden scaffolding that you can make with your own hands is several times inferior to a metal counterpart. But they cost practically nothing. In addition, in each suburban area you can find suitable materials. Your main tools in this context will be a hammer and nails.

The main disadvantage of wooden scaffolding is their low strength and low stability. Of course, if everything is done soundly, then this design can be used. That is why it is so important to follow the instructions exactly.

Attention ! Do-it-yourself wooden scaffolding is quite difficult to maintain, since untreated wood easily rots.

Plastic - reality or fiction

Now, more and more often in non-building forums, you can see entire topics dedicated to plastic scaffolding. Of course, they exist and have a lot of important advantages over wooden and metal products. But to make them not in industrial conditions is not yet possible.

Attention ! Of course, if you have a 3-D printer, then you can make your own plastic scaffolding.

Construction of different types of structures

Making wooden scaffolding

This is the simplest design that you can do with your own hands in just a day. To end up with a solid and reliable structure, just follow these instructions:

1. Take a board six meters long and place it against the wall.
2. Place a second plank in parallel.
3. Fasten them together with crossbars. Make the second support in the same way.
4. Lay the flooring.
5. To provide increased rigidity, take bracing boards. Use the ground as a stop.
6. Build up level after level until you reach a sufficient height.

As you can see, making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is not so difficult, but there are many nuances that need to be taken care of. Otherwise, the design may not stand for several days.

It is very important to make spans of optimal dimensions for the structure. The canon is considered to be a distance of two meters between the risers. If necessary, it can be increased to two and a half. The width of the deck is exactly one meter.

Another important nuance in the construction of scaffolding is which fasteners to use. Usually there are only two options: nails and screws. It is worth recognizing that both have their pros and cons.

Take, for example, self-tapping screws. At first glance, these are ideal fasteners for making scaffolding with your own hands. But not everything is so clear. Their main disadvantage is excessive fragility.

Also, self-tapping screws, with which you can make scaffolding with your own hands, are quite susceptible to shock loads. Their hat just pops off. Naturally, this can lead to the complete destruction of the structure.

Therefore, nails are the best option for making scaffolding with your own hands. And it is best to use 120 mm products. For better fixation, their tips are bent.

The main reason for the brittleness of self-tapping screws is that they are made of hardened metal. That is why under heavy loads they often break. Nails are a completely different matter. They are based on soft metal. It can bend but not break. That is why, if you want to make scaffolding with your own hands, it is best to use them.

Unfortunately, despite their undeniable merits, nails are not perfect. The main disadvantage of these fasteners is that it will not be possible to carefully disassemble the structure. You'll have to break it. Naturally, the product cannot be used a second time.

Therefore, experienced builders recommend to all those who decide to make scaffolding with their own hands to fasten the basic version with self-tapping screws, and fix the final one with nails.

We make scaffolding from metal with our own hands

First, one important clarification needs to be made. In this option, the main structure is made of metal, and the flooring is made of wood. This is the best combination to achieve high performance.

Attention ! Do-it-yourself scaffolding is not made exclusively with metal scaffolding.

Aluminum can be used as the metal for the frame. It is light in weight, so installation should not be difficult. However, it is not able to withstand too large loads and this must be taken into account. It is best that each span has the following parameters:

• width - 100 cm;
• height - 150 cm;
• length from 165 to 200 cm.

This is the canon that will ensure the necessary stability for the building created by one's own hands.

When creating a metal structure, you need to properly prepare, since the quality of materials is of particular importance here, you will need:

• square profile,
• pipes for spacers,
• profile for connecting inserts,
• floor boards,
• stairs,
• connecting elements.

Naturally, you won’t be able to limit yourself to materials alone; in order to create the intended project with your own hands, you will also need a number of tools, including:

• hacksaw for metal,
• drill,
• Bulgarian,
• welding machine.

With the help of this toolkit, you can build a metal auxiliary device with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself construction of scaffolding begins with tamping the ground where the product will stand. This will ensure increased reliability of the entire structure. Moreover, it does not hurt to make a drainage system.

Attention ! Drainage is a necessary element if the facade decoration will last for a long period of time.

Where the supports will stand, you must place the boards with your own hands. This will provide more stability. In this case, no precaution will be superfluous, since the slightest play can lead to the fact that the scaffolding will collapse, and you will not be able to do anything.

To make scaffolding from a profile pipe with your own hands, follow this algorithm:

To protect scaffolding from corrosion, you need to make a protective coating. Enough anti-corrosion fluid and special paint.

Results

You can make scaffolding with your own hands. The complexity of the design directly depends on the material you choose, for example, plastic structures can only be made in industrial production. The simplest option is a wooden structure.

During construction work outside and inside the premises (if they have high ceilings), scaffolding is often needed - it is not necessary to carry out drawings of auxiliary structures with your own hands, but anyone can assemble them using a ready-made method.

Requirements for scaffolding for construction and repair

Scaffolding is widely used in construction and repair. Even the usual do-it-yourself wall plastering it is not easy to carry out without them, and the installation of a roof or wall siding becomes a very difficult task without auxiliary supporting structures. Of course, the mobility of stepladders or hastily put together goat-stools is higher, and their cost is noticeably lower.

But only solid-sized scaffolding will allow you not to be distracted by the constant movement along the facade or the wall being repaired of everything you need. Saving time and effort, concentrating energy on repairs - the main benefit from scaffolding, homemade or purchased. The productivity of construction labor when using scaffolding increases several times - so their cost can be entered in the column "payment for the speed and convenience of repair."

Any design of scaffolding must be reliable and durable - including taking into account the people, tools, building and consumables placed on them. If there is even the slightest doubt that scaffolding cannot be assembled with the proper margin of stability, it is better to purchase a finished, branded product in a specialized store. Moreover, the choice of such products is quite diverse.

Scaffolding classification

The term "forests" itself is associated with the historical experience of finishing facades with plaster, stucco and painting during the construction of palaces and other elite buildings. For plasterers and finishers, multi-meter "shelves" were erected from real logs and platforms. After the completion of the work, all this material was spent on firewood, leaving to posterity only its name and the principle of construction.

Modern options are based on a frame and are made taking into account reusable use. Structurally, scaffolding can be performed in the following options:

• Pin scaffolding - made of steel pipes, with welded curved fittings and socket locks. Heavy and clumsy, it takes a lot of time to assemble and move - but very strong. For example, stone or brickwork is best done from them. A large amount of heavy building materials can be loaded onto pin scaffolding, they are very stable and durable;
• Frame scaffolding made of light aluminum and / or steel alloys - made of pipes and stiffeners with reliable fixation of the structure into a solid frame. They may have wheels for moving on flat ground. Great for plaster or balcony siding- when the weight of building materials is small, and the work is associated with rapid movement along (up and down) the object being repaired;
• Wedge scaffolding is a kind of symbiosis of frame and pin structures, combining the advantages of both. Withstand heavy loads and are mobile at the same time. Fastener nodes are made in the form of flanges with slots, which allows you to create polygonal and broken lines along complex facades.
• Clamp scaffolding - universal structures of small carrying capacity for the repair and restoration of curved facades;
• Suspended - the well-known "cradles", with the help of which facade glass is washed and tile joints are sealed. Between two stationary scaffolding, a structure without ground support can also be suspended.

Suspended, clamp and wedge options are only purchased, their independent "production" is not recommended. Pin or frame scaffolding, the drawings of which are given below, are assembled with their own hands with the appropriate carpentry and metalworking skills.

Scaffolding - do-it-yourself wood, step by step instructions

Wood is the easiest to process and at the same time inexpensive material - the creation of wooden scaffolding fits into several repair stages, which are quite doable on your own. We will describe in detail how to make them from wooden beams, boards and slats.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood - step by step diagram

Step 1: Selecting and preparing wood

To work, you will need several types of wood. Bearing supports are made of timber 10x10 cm in size (a smaller section will not allow heavy construction work to be carried out from scaffolding). Horizontal floorings are knocked together from thick boards (from 50 mm), stiffeners - from boards with a thickness of 25 mm or more. Fencing rails with a thickness of 20 mm or more can be used. Wood for supports and platforms should be free of knots and cracks, it should be treated with special compounds to prevent rotting and mold.

Step 2: Frame planning

The end sides of the wooden scaffolding must be made at a converging angle - this will significantly increase the stability of the structure and will not interfere with the repair of walls.

In addition, it is advisable to choose load-bearing supports from a 10x10 cm beam that are solid, and not composite - then the strength of the multi-storey structure will be higher. The minimum allowable width of homemade wood scaffolding is 50 cm, their length can be 3-4 meters. The height limit is considered to be 6 meters, otherwise the risk of overturning the scaffolding during operation is high. For work, you will need standard woodworking tools - saws and hacksaws, a planer, a drill and a screwdriver.

Step 3: Building the frame

Two beams with a height of not more than 6 meters are laid on a flat horizontal surface, the distance between them is equal to the planned length of the scaffolding. The other two fit right next to each other. The upper part of the bars should slightly converge upwards for the stability of the entire structure. For a distance between supports of 4 meters along the length of the scaffolding down below convergence of 40-50 cm is enough up. That is, if the center distance between the support beams at the bottom is exactly four meters, then from above it is set at 3.5-3.6 meters. The result is two symmetrical wooden trapeziums.

Sidewalls from a bar are screwed to the support beams with self-tapping screws. They will serve as supports for working decks, so they are mounted from the inside. In general, self-made wooden scaffolding can have no more than three "mounting floors", so there will be only four sidewalls from a bar. Three correspond to the levels of the forests, and the lower one serves for strength, it is fixed 20-30 cm from the ground.

Step 4: Making a three-dimensional frame

To connect the side trapezoids into solid scaffolding, you will need an assistant (and preferably two). It is difficult to perform this operation alone, and the docking accuracy will certainly suffer. Side crossbars are prepared in advance, and they will be of different lengths. The fact is that sustainable forests should be pyramidal in both width and length. The required angle of convergence is small, otherwise an uncomfortable gap will appear between the upper part of the scaffolding and the facade being repaired. Say, for a width of 1 meter, an upper clearance of 85-90 cm will be enough.

Having installed the wooden sidewalls vertically and slightly tilting them towards each other, we fasten the side crossbars with long self-tapping screws. The use of screws is preferable because after repair and construction work, the scaffolding can be disassembled (partially or completely) and folded in a barn or garage.

Step 5: Final and optional

It remains to nail boards for flooring and a fence above each platform to the transverse bars. On the sides of the scaffolding, additional crossbars can be filled, which will act as stairs. It is also useful to make a knot in the form of a retractable pin above each support for attaching scaffolding to earthen soil - it is removed on flat surfaces, and the whole structure stands on the cuts of the end beams.

Scaffolding is a specific thing and not always necessary. But what to do if they are so necessary, but there is nowhere to take them? Mount yourself! Before getting to work, it is important to know that scaffolding is built on the principle of a frame structure assembled from wood and steel elements. To understand how to make scaffolding with your own hands, the master must decide on their type.

Scaffold design and types

Based on the material of production, forests are divided into two types:

• metal;
• wooden.

Another criterion for dividing scaffolding into types is the method of fastening structural elements. According to this method, forests are divided into:

• frame - are considered especially strong, since their main is an all-metal frame;
• pin - parts of the structure in these scaffolds are attached to each other with a pin;
• wedge - the design of such scaffolding is connected by the wedge method;
• clamp - vertical and horizontal racks are connected by inserts according to the "pipe to pipe" method, fixed with swivel and non-swivel clamps.

How to assemble wooden scaffolding

To assemble scaffolding, which is also called a "goat" or "table", you will need the following materials:

• Nails or self-tapping screws (any, as long as there is enough length, except for rusty and bent ones, otherwise the work will turn into sheer torment);
• Boards (pallets, fences, old furniture, pieces of chipboard, plywood or wooden boards);
• Bars (any sticks, debris, pieces of metal profiles, branches from trees).

Frame manufacturing

An excellent assistant for those who assemble scaffolding with their own hands will be drawings. It is on them that it is easiest to assemble the frame. To do this, wooden stands and shoes are fixed on a pre-prepared site, if necessary, screw supports are installed. After that, frames are mounted with a certain step. Their number determines the estimated length of the structure. Along the edges, special frames with borders are installed. Ladders are mounted on the frames for the descent and ascent of workers. The entire structure is fastened with horizontal and diagonal ties. For their fixation in the frame there are special locks.

Frame assembly

The minimum safe height of the scaffold is 5-6 m, the width is 50 cm, and their recommended length is 4 m. Based on these figures, the size of the frame and the required amount of material are calculated, whose quality deserves special attention.

In particular, to create a frame, a solid beam with a width of at least 10 cm is chosen. The end strips of the structure are mounted at an acute angle. Two six-meter support beams are laid in a horizontal position. The distance between them is the width of future forests. Two more six-meter beams are laid nearby at the same distance. The upper ends of the beams should converge at a slight angle in the form of a trapezoid, this will give stability to future scaffolding.

Side racks are fixed to these beams - the support of future decking. The racks are fixed from the inside, and only three racks are used for decking, and the last one serves to strengthen the structure. There should be no more than 4 sidewalls in total, since it is not recommended to build scaffolding above "four floors".

Flooring installation

Before you make scaffolding, you need to determine the requirements that they must meet. Height can be considered a defining parameter, because flooring is necessary precisely for working at a certain height.

The length of the "goat" depends solely on the size of the available materials. Of course, a table that is too short will be very inconvenient, especially at high altitude. And you need to remember that on the table, perhaps, there will be two people and a bucket of solution.

To achieve the desired width of the flooring, the required number of boards is used. However, if it is made not from boards, but from chipboard, then the increase will be difficult. As for the scaffolding erected indoors, the so-called "goats", the width of the existing doorways, as well as the presence of other furniture, will become an important point. After all, the "goat" will need to be moved somehow.

The weight factor is one of the most important, because it is inconvenient to carry scaffolding, and heavy ones even more so. To move them by dragging is once again subjecting them to undesirable physical impact. On the other hand, sacrificing height and strength is definitely not worth it.

Not only the health of the builder, but also the integrity of walls, floors, and equipment depends on the strength of scaffolding. Everything that can be nearby. However, there is no point in loading the structure with unnecessary elements. It is far from certain that they will actually add strength. Properly hammered nails, twisted screws and mounted jumpers are a guarantee of strength.

Wooden scaffolding can be considered stable if it does not wobble. And it's not just that the worker feels uncomfortable if the table wobbles. Any furniture breaks for this very reason, including scaffolding. Properly placed jumpers are the only way to achieve stability.

For flooring, wide and long boards are used, nailing them to the sidewalls. These three boards need to be spread around the edges and in the center of the deck so that it does not sag. By the way, it is more convenient to cut off the excess when the flooring is already assembled - then you will not need to measure anything. The gaps between the boards reduce the weight of the product. On the other hand, they make it possible for small objects to constantly fall to the floor.

When screwing in the screws, you need to make sure that the boards do not crack. And protruding screws are easily broken off with a hammer blow. If the nails turned out to be long, they should be bent through something round - the handle of pliers, for example. In this case, the sharp end of the nail will enter the wood from the back, giving extra strength.

Assembly of metal scaffolding

Metal scaffolding is much stronger than wood and has a longer service life. However, their manufacture takes more time and labor costs. A scaffolding scheme is usually used to calculate materials and size. Multi-level scaffolding is made of aluminum, small structures are made of steel. Steel, unlike aluminum, is more suitable for self-arrangement of scaffolding. To build metal scaffolding with your own hands, the master will need:

• round pipe with a diameter of 15 mm - the basis of future struts;
• profile pipe with a diameter of 30 mm - necessary for the production of racks;
• a profile pipe with a diameter of 25 - connecting jumpers are made from it;
• fastening materials for metal;
• "Bulgarian" - it grinds corners and saws pipes;
• drill and drills.

Strut preparation

Installation of metal scaffolding begins with the preparation of spacers. A 15 mm pipe is cut into two fragments of 2 meters each. Their ends are flattened. At each end of the "grinder" two longitudinal notches are made no more than 2 cm.

Then the 30 mm pipe is cut into fragments of 1.5 m each (the height of one span of scaffolding). Then, pieces of 0.70 m are cut from the same pipe, intended for jumpers between the uprights of the span. Jumpers are installed 35 cm apart. The sizes of all fragments are carefully rechecked. After all work is completed, the structure is welded into a single whole using a welding machine.

Manufacture of adapters

At a later stage, adapters between sections are mounted. To do this, a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm is cut into small pieces of 25 cm, and a pipe with a diameter of 30 mm is cut into even smaller pieces of 5 cm, with their help jumpers will be fixed. A segment of 25 cm is threaded into a segment of 5 cm to its center. Then it is fixed by welding or self-tapping screws.

For further assembly of scaffolding, holes for bolts are made at the ends of the jumpers and in the racks. Jumpers are securely fastened between the uprights of the section crosswise, on both sides. Further, with the help of connecting adapters, the next floor of the structure is created.

Frame assembly

Frame metal scaffolding is able to withstand pressure of 180-200 kg per sq.m. They are made from racks and frames. Such forests are allowed to be erected to a great height - up to 45 meters. Before mounting the metal frame, first of all, they determine the location of tiers, stairs and other structural elements.

The assembly of the frame begins with the fact that on a pre-prepared site, segments of 3 m are laid, on which the support boards are laid. Metal supports are fixed on these boards, which form the basis of the initial tier. After the supports are fastened together with iron ties, the next floor is mounted. On each floor, working surfaces from boards - floorings are equipped. To climb them, the scaffolding is equipped with ladders on the sides.

Section mounting

Before arranging scaffolding, it is necessary to determine the size and location of the sections. In this case, three conditions must be met:

• the width between the racks is not more than 3 m;
• the length between the racks is not more than 4 m;
• the height between floors is not more than 2 m.

The number of sections depends on the size of the wall. The flooring sheet is fixed on the racks with metal screws or clamps. Then horizontal guides (lintels) are welded to the racks. Pipe cuts (adapters) are “put on” on the upper ends of the racks and welded. If a thin-walled pipe is used, then during assembly, its ends and middle are flattened, and holes for fasteners are made in these places.

Two diagonal strips are bolted together in the center, then they are applied to the uprights and marks the points for future holes. Diagonal strips are fixed on the racks with bolts. Then, thrust bearings are welded to the ends of the pipes - flat metal plates. After that, the structure is installed in the working position.

Flooring manufacturing

The flooring for metal scaffolding is made according to the same principle as for wood scaffolding. Floorings are made from edged boards, 40-50 mm thick, metal sheets are also used.

Scaffolding painting

When erecting scaffolding with their own hands, not everyone thinks about the need to paint them. This is not a prerequisite for their operation. However, a layer of paint will protect the metal from corrosion, and wood from getting wet and rotting, which will significantly increase the shelf life of scaffolding.

If you have a need to perform work on the facade, you need to do without scaffolding.

They are temporary structures, they are metal structures that are used in construction, finishing and restoration work on buildings and structures. The advantages of these structures are that their installation and dismantling is carried out directly on construction sites. If necessary, the structure can be easily moved along the wall. In addition, building scaffolds are a convenient structure for temporary use, being on which you can perform work related to the facade: insulation, finishing, painting. You can perform minor work on the restoration of wooden window frames, make slopes of window openings.

Not only professional builders, but also many ordinary summer residents, as well as owners of private houses and country cottages, need to purchase scaffolding with removable flooring (scaffolding) - after all, when it becomes necessary to tint the roof gables or update the facade decoration of the house, more than just a ladder may be required or a stepladder, but something more serious.

Scaffolding on "envelopes" has recently become quite a popular design option that you can make yourself. As you can see in the photos below, these scaffolds have a wide range of applications, from masonry production to finishing work. Due to the simplicity and low cost of their design, it is easy to organize paving at the desired height and perform painting, whitewashing, surface restoration, window cleaning, installation of slopes and trim, etc.

Why is this option popular among builders?

The main advantage is that the scaffolding can be made independently. At the same time, not much building material is spent at all. Well, plus everything: simplicity and ease of assembly / disassembly of the structure. After completing the work, they disassemble and fold until better times in a secluded corner of the barn.

What are scaffolding with "envelopes" made of?

"Envelope" is a scaffolding, which is a support platform in the form of a triangle. Supports are made from various lumber that is on the construction site, for example, edged boards. The main thing is that the board is strong, with a minimum section of 50x50 mm. (see fig. 1).

Rice. 1, Supporting platform - "envelope". 1 - L-shaped bracket; 2 - jibs.

Then, it is necessary to build L-shaped brackets - the boards are knocked down, after which they are sheathed on the sides with wooden slats.

The dimensions of the site must be constructed based on the safe operation of the structure. On the support platform, it is not large in size, it is rather inconvenient to work, and besides, you will often have to move it. Having made a scaffolding of a large area, you can expose yourself to a traumatic situation, there is a possibility of the envelopes being torn off the wall. Taking this into account, the size of the platform must be calculated in this way: the size of a human leg is on average 350-400 mm, taking this size of the horizontal platforms of the scaffold, a person can become a full foot, while not being afraid to fall from a height.

Now that the platform is ready, the support platform is fixed, it remains to set it to the desired height so that you can reach the required level. You will also need a couple of supports, it is quite possible to use a 150x50 mm edged board. Before installing them, the supports must be made sharp at the base so that they rest on the ground, and the upper ends along the contour of the "envelope" cornerslightly beveled for a tight fit, as shown in Figure 2.

Rice. 2 Installation of scaffolds: 1 - prop-slightly; 2 - "envelope"; 3 - flooring boards; 4 - supporting surface.

Then, after the flooring from the "envelopes" is raised to the required height, it must be fixed. The vertical part of the L-bracket should be nailed to the wall with ordinary long nails. It is advisable not to hammer the nails all the way, otherwise it will be difficult to pull them out during dismantling.

Now you can lift and install the flooring itself. The boards are laid at the desired height and nailed to the horizontal shelf of the brackets. Nails in these places can be driven completely into the boards, this will make the structure more durable.

Advice: to make it easier to get the nails, they can be driven into the boards through thin spacer rails; when dismantled, they are simply split with a nail puller.

!Attention Be careful when working at height. Follow the safety precautions for. Remember that when making your own construction scaffolding, you need to check the strength of each of the structural nodes.