Felting boots. Felted footwear and its care. Detailed plan of the video course

How I hated winter all my adult life! That is, theoretically, I was ready to admit that at this time of the year it is very beautiful. But cold! Terribly, unbearably cold! And this cancels everything else ... I don’t know about others, but no boots protect me from frost: just below -10 degrees - that's it, my legs get cold. And life after that no longer pleases, and the beauty of the surrounding nature does not inspire ...

Only in the first rural winter, being already in adulthood, I discovered for myself all the good things that the cold season brings us. And all - thanks to ... felt boots! These are the first shoes in which I am absolutely comfortable and not at all cold in cold weather, so I compose my “ode to felt boots” from the bottom of my heart, in sincere admiration.

Why is he so good?

Today, felt boots are back in fashion and, fortunately, are no longer perceived as an attribute of toddler or deep retirement age :) In modern models, you can walk around the city - but we were once ashamed to leave the house in them and suffered in fashionable boots, in vain trying to find those that would at least save a little from terrible discomfort in severe frost. And today, on the catwalks of the whole world, models flaunt in designer boots; women of fashion, not only in cold Siberia, but also in European capitals, do not consider it shameful to wear them.
Why did this simple shoe revive, become fashionable and in demand again these days? What is the reason for the unexpected interest? After all, there are probably more serious reasons for this than a momentary whim of fashion or a fad of a popular couturier? Of course have!

It's warm in boots

And this is their main advantage. They provide excellent protection against the most severe frosts, so in winter for our harsh climate it is difficult to find the best option.

Boots are comfortable

You will hardly find other shoes that are able to take the shape of the foot so precisely and maintain it, which will give such comfort. Initially, after all, both felt boots are right. Well, or left)) In general, the same. But after a very short time, a well-made shoe will turn out to be perfectly fitted to the leg: it doesn’t press anywhere, doesn’t press, doesn’t rub - just a fairy tale!

Valenki are healing

Natural sheep wool has long been famous for its beneficial effect on the body. If you wear felt boots at home, putting them on bare feet, you can get rid of many problems - including joint pain, circulatory diseases and other common ailments. In any case, noticeably improve the condition - for sure.

Boots are durable

Many are convinced that modern shoes rarely last long. And often it does not depend on the price or the manufacturer: expensive boots can become unusable as quickly as a cheap pair. But good felt boots (with proper care, of course) are able to serve their owner for decades!

Actually, in Russian villages, felt boots have never gone out of fashion: although they are sometimes unsightly, they are absolutely indispensable for rural life. And good craftsmen capable of making such winter shoes have always been and remain held in high esteem by the villagers. But about that how and why the triumphant return of felt boots happened to city streets what boots are in fashion today, how and with what to combine them correctly, will tell the next video

True, it is worth remembering and considering: not every felt boot has the listed advantages and benefits. In order not to be disappointed in traditional vintage shoes, you need to choose correctly. And here it turns out that everything is not so simple. After all, the felt boots themselves are different, and everyone has their own purpose of acquiring them: someone needs them to go on winter fishing, and someone needs them to put on a fashionable fur coat and at a winter out-of-town party their girlfriends "slay on the spot" :))

A little later, we will certainly talk about how not to make a mistake with the choice, but for now, let's expand our horizons a little more - find out what and how boots are made. Believe me, such knowledge will be very useful when we finally go shopping.

How to make felt boots

Making felt boots is a rather hard work that requires considerable physical effort. Yes, and this is not too fast, if you roll the shoes by hand. For those who are interested, be sure to watch the following video, where the whole process is shown in great detail. Of course, each master has his own special techniques, but in general, the technology has remained unchanged since ancient times - as they felted hundreds of years ago, so now

It is clear that excellent felt boots are obtained in this way - comfortable, comfortable, very warm. They fully preserve all the best properties and qualities of this traditional footwear. Only now there are very few masters left, and it is not possible for them to supply everyone who wants it. Therefore, in large quantities, boots are produced, of course, in factory conditions. And this is how it happens...

As you can see, even in production, machines cannot completely replace a person, and a significant part of the operations is still performed manually. Technique makes the task easier, takes on the hardest part of the work, but as in the old days, the quality of finished boots largely depends on the hands of the master from his experience and skill.

It may seem that time has stopped at these factories: technology and equipment have remained virtually unchanged for more than a dozen years. And in Belarus, and in Moscow, and in Kazakhstan, felted shoes are made using tried and tested traditional methods. Moreover, both for materials and for each operation there are strict standards and rules. What are the requirements for quality of raw materials how does it turn into warm shoes, and where is it located the biggest boot in the world, will tell the next short video

felt boots strife

Not every felt boot, however, will please its owner. Law of the market: demand creates supply, and this offer is not always from a conscientious manufacturer.

As we have already found out, The best felt boots are made from sheep's wool.- they are the warmest, most durable and comfortable. Moreover, not every sheep's wool is “correct”: both the season of shearing and the characteristics of the finished raw material (humidity, fat content, the presence of impurities, and so on) are taken into account. Traditionally, wool of autumn shearing was considered the most suitable for felted shoes, but in factory conditions it is often used, mixing with “spring” in strictly specified proportions. However, there are products on sale that contain goat hair, and even horse hair or synthetic fiber, or even just cotton wool. It is clear that in terms of their properties, such shoes will differ from the “original” - and not for the better.

Unfortunately, only a connoisseur can determine the composition "by eye", and we - amateurs - can only rely on the conscientiousness of the manufacturer and the awareness of the seller. If there are no familiar craftsmen, or handmade felt boots are simply not affordable (and the price of one pair today in our area starts from 5-6 thousand rubles), we go to choose shoes, armed with at least a minimum of knowledge.

Good boots should not be too thick and rough. Contrary to popular misconception, the thickness of the product is not at all a guarantee of warmth and comfort. A manual roller allows you to make thin, soft felt boots that can literally be rolled up into a roll - and at the same time they will remain warmer than their factory counterparts, hard and “inflexible”. By the way, factory-made felted shoes can be distinguished, among other things, by the edge: for those made by hand, they are most often soft and not very even, and factory-made ones are cut to the desired length with a special knife, so their upper edge is usually neat, straight and solid. The downside is that he can rub his leg - pay attention to this nuance during the fitting

And it is necessary to measure felt boots - otherwise it will hardly be possible to choose a suitable pair, comfortable in all respects. And here it is very important to determine the size. There are many subtleties here. Hand-rolled felt boots practically do not shrink, so you can buy them exactly in size, but factory ones advise taking 1-2 sizes larger, because over time they will definitely sit in length and spread in width. Shoes with rubber soles are less prone to shrinkage - there is enough stock for 1 size.

Remember: the sizes of the boots are different from the usual ones. shoe. How to know yours?

Method 1

Put on a woolen sock and measure the length of the foot (it is more convenient to do this if you first circle it and then measure the distance from the toe to the heel). The resulting number (in centimeters) is your boot size. If the number turned out to be fractional, it is rounded up.

Method 2

There are size matching tables, but if you are reluctant to remember them, you can use the simplest formula: your usual size minus 13. True, the trick is that the resulting result will differ from the tabular one. But here discrepancies were generally found: even the manufacturers of felt boots give contradictory information (in the proposed tables, the numbers can vary plus or minus the size). Therefore, in order not to mislead anyone, I do not give tables (those who wish can easily find them on the Internet).

It is most reliable, having determined the approximate size by calculation or measurement, then select a suitable pair by fitting.

If needed felt boots for a child You can refer to the following numbers:

for age up to 1 year - 13 boots size (shoe size 24-25)
for age 1 year - size 14 (shoes size 25-26)
for 1.5 years - size 15 (corresponds to shoe size 26-27)
for 2-2.5 years - size 16 (with shoe size 27-28)
for 3 years - size 17 (shoes size 28-29)
for 3.5 years - size 18 (shoes size 29-30)
for 4 years - 19 size (corresponds to 30-31 shoe sizes)
for 5 years - size 20 (shoes size 31-32).

Other signs of a quality felt boot and the secrets of choosing a good pair will reveal the following short video

How to care for boots

High-quality felt boots serve their owner not only for years - for decades. Of course, with good and proper care. The boots have two main enemies: moth and dampness. It is from them that it is necessary to protect him and protect him in every possible way.

In urban conditions, it is most difficult to protect yourself from dampness: whatever one may say, it is necessary to enter the premises and transport - and there will definitely be puddles from the melted snow. Snow "porridge" on the streets sprinkled with salt or sprinkled with reagents is the worst enemy for any shoe. What to do?

One of the most familiar and most accessible methods is to put on galoshes. Not only in the city, but also in the country on wet snow at the beginning of winter, early spring or during thaws, it is better to walk in felt boots with galoshes. The usual look of this product - black glossy rubber and a bright lining - is almost never found today. But recently they were extremely popular.

Moreover, there was a time when galoshes not only provided comfort, but also emphasized the high status of their owner. In general, it turns out that they have a rather long and interesting history. For those who are interested, be sure to watch the following video; it is small, and at least not about felt boots, but it is most directly related to the topic of our conversation today

In general, nothing is better than galoshes for protecting boots from moisture. Shiny rubber went out of fashion, but new models appeared - transparent, silicone. In terms of properties, they are not inferior to rubber ones, but, of course, they look more elegant. They can be worn even on beautiful felt boots with patterns - they won’t spoil the look.

Another option for moisture protection is molded outsole, which is welded to the finished boots in the factory. This shoe is no different from ordinary boots. Except for the service life: experts say that felted shoes “on a rubber run” live less than traditional ones. But nothing can be changed here: galoshes can be removed if desired, but the sole on felt boots is forever.

Coming back from a walk shake off the snow with boots before entering the house. Wet shoes are a must dry. Just do not put it on the battery - felt boots can shrink a lot, lose their shape. It is advised to dry them at a temperature not higher than +40 degrees, located near a heat source (heater, radiator, stove, and so on).

The contaminated steam can brush, and semolina will help restore the former beauty of white felt boots: sprinkle dry shoes with grits, rub lightly (so that the semolina absorbs dirt), shake off and thoroughly clean the surface with a brush.

When the season is over, shoes are desirable ventilate, dry in the sun and put away until next winter, remembering to use moth remedies. What it will be - you decide: someone just wraps it in newspapers, someone pours tobacco, some put special moth pills, others use herbs - lavender, tansy, wormwood ... However, no method gives a 100% guarantee, so periodically it is recommended to remove felt boots from storage and check if a flying enemy has encroached on them.

Do-it-yourself felted shoes: making and decorating

Not everyone can afford to make real felt boots with their own hands at home, but to make cozy and warm felted slippers simpler, so those who want to try their hand at this craft can start with them.

Such work is within the power of even a fragile woman. Well, the details of the technology are in the next master class.

Ways to decorate felted shoes You can devote a separate article, but for now - we will limit ourselves to listing. Some options are worth taking note of: with their help, it is quite possible to turn even the most ordinary factory-made felt boots into unique and elegant shoes. So, boots decorate ...

embroidery

You can embroider with threads, beads, glass beads. Threads are usually used woolen, thick enough (so that the pattern is more expressive, and the work does not drag on for weeks and months). For embroidery with beads, use a thin but strong fishing line or a special synthetic thread. Pay attention to the quality of the beads - after all, they will be tested by frost, water and other adverse conditions. Only colored glass can withstand them with honor - the paint applied to the surface of the beads will quickly peel off. And keep in mind: the stitches for any embroidery should be through; trying to apply the pattern superficially, you will only spoil the boots.

applique

This method is simpler than embroidery, but it gives, perhaps, even more scope for creativity. Here you can use felt and colored felt, lace and braid, trimmings of leather and fur, crocheted motifs, woolen pom-poms, all kinds of accessories - you can’t list everything. Just do not use glue - it is better to carefully sew the appliqué (through stitches, as in embroidery).

carving

A figured shaft with an openwork pattern along the hem is a spectacular and stylish decor option. As a rule, it is supplemented with embroidery or appliqué. Just keep in mind: this option will not look good on every model. And if this kind of work is new to you, you should first practice on old shoes so as not to ruin a good pair.

Craftswomen also stuff the pattern with colored wool; they paint the whole felt boots or paint them with special paints; they make an edge of faux or natural fur ... Designers are not averse to experimenting with the form - like this, for example:

But even without special “decorations”, felted shoes (especially handmade ones) will be both comfortable and healthy. Winter has come to our region - it's time to get boots))

And finally, another video. About the history of felt boots, interesting facts about his "biography" and much, much more

By the way, do you wear boots?

So five days in St. Petersburg flew by - five wonderful days that included a lot of work, with excellent results, a lot of impressions and gave new friends ....
The trip was really successful in every sense - the weather did not let us down, it was warm and dry; autumn St. Petersburg and especially Peterhof in full splendor ... but most importantly, I took place (it took place !!!) my master class on felting boots and installing them on the sole.
Felting wool master class is not simple and quite complex - a lot of information and a lot of physical work .... and only three days to get the result - Boots, felted and assembled with their own hands. The girls are all so different, but so Cool and Talented! - everyone tried and worked at full strength, with faith in the final result! For three days we were both designers, and pimokats, and shoemakers .... they waved a rubel and wielded a shoe hook, they were very tired ... .., and once again very tired, but the result was worth it - neat, even and comfortable Boots, made by their own hands, for their own legs, taking into account all their features and preserving all useful properties wool)))

Master class on felting day one.

We started with the theory of building a pattern for shoes, correct foot measurements and selection of soles. Then we moved on to the layout and lapping of the wool on the template

According to the barrels, modern and grandmother's antique rubels were collected

Finished on the layout and lapping on the template

Master class on felting day two.

In the process of the master class, we went directly to felting boots and molding them to our sizes.

Felting with a rubel and a bamboo mat.

Felting fit to size

Master class on felting day three.

The study of the technology of installing the boot on the sole and the practical part of gluing and sewing. Preparing to install shoe fittings.

Installing a felt boot on the sole and sewing

Here it is, our inspiring result!

The boots turned out amazing! – every pair is good!!!

Once again about the repair of felted shoes, their recoverability after hard use.

In the first photo, the boots that I made for Yulia last year (this is how they looked), the test drive was, one might say, tough! – from November 1 to mid-April every day, in any weather!!!

Our workshops are nearby, so I could watch it in real time ... Julia, as soon as she put on her boots, immediately appreciated all the advantages of felted shoes, so she went through the entire (autumn-winter, smoothly flowing into spring) season in them.
I must say that in the process of wearing the shoes they didn’t wash, and practically didn’t clean, and at the end of the season (6 months for a minute!) They took them off and left them in the oven (Yulya ceramist) on the floor, under the shelves ...

And here in the second photo are the boots in the form in which they came to me at the end of summer. What can I say - dusty felted boots, not as bright as they were, but they have not lost their shape!!!
The cuffs, in principle, could not be torn off (they were perfectly preserved!) And the boots could be washed with them, but if you upgrade, then complete, so I decided to knit new ones!

I washed (washed) the shoes with warm water and liquid detergent, rinsed well, let the water drain and shaped it a little.

In the fourth photo, the boots are after washing and drying and are ready for assembly.

Since Julia is a very active person, and the boots have already been trodden for a whole season, in order to increase their service life, I decided to strengthen the heel and toe with granitol and leather. To do this, I flogged the firmware of the sole, with the help of scissors I slightly separated the soles from the felt part (in the area of the toe and heel), cut out and shaped the details, first glued the details from granitol (heel and toe), then leather details on top. I made the entries (allowances on parts) on the lower part (sole) small so that it was possible to bend and push them between the soles, but at the same time they should be sufficient so that they could be sewn when sewing on the sole, and thereby fix the heel and sock. I glued the leather details and sewed them along the edge, I deliberately sew them on with one needle (puncture to puncture) so that there is no line inside the boot that can rub the leg. Re-sewed the sole.

I knitted and sewed new cuffs (I needed the gray color of the yarn on the cuffs, similar to the color of the leather details - on the old cuffs, the gray was a different shade), waxed the bottom of the boots a little and inserted the laces!

In ancient times, they were purchased only by rich people. The peasants managed with one pair for the whole family. DIY felt boots evoke warm, pleasant, and a bit dated feel. No matter how progress progresses, for cold and harsh winter weather, the warmest and most comfortable shoes are felt boots. Even the most fashionable girls are happy to wear them. The current high fur boots are decorated with embroidery, drawings and stones.

Many beginner needlewomen are interested in knowing how the creation process takes place. It is long and complicated, so it is better to start making miniature felt boots as a holiday souvenir or a New Year's toy.

Material used

To create a unique creation, you need to stock up on the following material:

skein
a small amount of building insulation;
soapy water;
oilcloth;
mosquito net;
sprayer;
scissors.

Miniature felt boots

Consider a detailed description:

The proposed sketch is cut out of the basalt insulation.

The wool that extends beyond the edges of the pattern is folded over and smoothed out so that the work is wrinkle-free.

We repeat the entire procedure previously done on the reverse side. We do not leave empty spaces.

The template is wetted, covered with a mosquito net and pressed with palms.

The mesh is removed, the workpiece is turned over, and the protruding yarn is folded over and leveled.

It is important that the workpiece is symmetrical on both sides. If irregularities are found, the material is covered and repeatedly pressed.
Work continues. The sample is wetted with soap and water, covered with a tissue and rubbed. Three at once is not strong, and when it starts to fall down, we work at full strength. Wipe down the sides as well. This will take twenty minutes.

The product is finished with fingers, paying special attention to the bends. Wool should fit snugly to the pattern. In the course of the work, it will be clear with what force the product must be felted.

The workpiece is cut with scissors into two even elements.

We roll the edges. The pattern is not removed, the edge is rubbed with fingers.

The template is removed from the finished crafts. Valenochek is placed on the fingers, and the action continues. A good result is obtained by rubbing the boot on the film. During friction, the material heats up and falls off better. We monitor the amount of soap solution. You can dip the craft directly into a bowl of liquid.

We look to make the pair made the same and even. If you find any flaws, continue

At the end, we check by pinching off the craft with our fingers. The material must not be fibrous.
Miniature homemade felt boots are washed in clean water.

Having practiced on souvenir models, having stocked up with patience and perseverance, you can start making such old traditional shoes for your legs. This procedure is time-consuming and troublesome, but the result exceeds all expectations - your legs will be warm and comfortable even in the most severe frost.

The principle of felting

To make them at home, you need to do the following operations:

This activity is for patient and calm people, because it is a painstaking and long-term procedure. Felt boots will keep you warm in cold winter weather and your feet will always be protected from frost.

This master class is suitable for that wide range of wet felting masters who already know how to make felted slippers on a full face pattern. We will do it for ourselves, so the pads are not required.

To make a similar pair of spring felted wool boots, we need:

1. 120 g each of Latvian cardaces in two contrasting but matching colors (240 of the same color can be used).

2. Classic full-face pattern of slippers for your foot.

3. A piece of substrate under the laminate for a new pattern.

4. Long metal ruler - optional.

5. The block of the right size is not necessary, the main thing is that the right foot is within your reach.

6. Grinder - optional.

7. Accessories for felting that you are used to - soap, bubble wrap, garbage bags, gloves.

8. Shoemaker from the repair shop, for sewing soles to felt boots.

9. Well, and most importantly - where do we start and what do we go to the store for - this is the sole!

We need a platform sole, or a heeled sole with a built-in stupinator, with a height difference of 5-7 cm, our pattern will be designed for this height. A sole with a heel without a stupinator - bending in the middle does not suit us. When you have found a suitable one, try on it, do not focus only on the number on the sole. Since the felt has a thickness, for our pair, the size should look like this:

a small gap in front, and a little behind.

At home, we select two colors of the Latvian kardaches - I have perfectly approached this sole: the inner one is bright yellow, the outer one is brown. If you do not have experience laying out two-color layered slippers, or are not confident in your abilities in an even layout of carded wool - take one color.

Well, now - we need to correct the classic pattern for ballet slippers, it is often called a full-face, pattern-trace.

All sizes are calculated by me for the Latvian carded wool, if you work with other wool, you will have to correct the pattern for your shrinkage. I have the length of the center line of the pattern for 37-38 size equal to 37 cm.

You see the finished pattern. Line 1 - the center line of the pattern-trace. I traced myself.

Now on the left side, where the heel is from the center line up, we set aside 10-11 cm (size 2) and draw a smooth line with a deflection of 1.5 cm to the right just above the middle. The next step is to lay off to the left of the beginning of the center line 16 cm (size 4) and from the obtained point perpendicularly upwards 20 cm (size 3). Now we connect the upper points with a straight line, the upper cut of the boot will pass along it. It is more convenient for me to lay out on a pattern that is longer, therefore, having noticed the cut line, I extend the pattern by 5 cm. Well, we smoothly form a line of rise. The proportions of the average rise are visible in the photo. We cut out the pattern, do not forget to make it a little higher for ease of layout. We make the second one for the second shoe.

We weigh our wool in piles of 30 gr-8 piles. I have 4 yellow for the inner surface and 4 brown for the outer layer and proceed to the layout

We notice the upper cut with a ruler - this is convenient if you do not plan to cut off the upper edge, for its evenness, and we begin to lay out the first layer. I do this with kardaches: I pinch off the strands, giving more or less direction to the hairs and pinching, I lay out the first layer horizontally fan-shaped. For convenience, I showed the direction of the layout with pinches in the photo.

We spread this layer, slightly going beyond the pattern. We cover with a mesh, pour with soapy water, rub it with our hands, remove the mesh.

Now we carefully turn the ruler over, bending the edge of the wool that has crawled out onto it and - Opa! To a completely flat edge.

We turn over, bend the edge, lay out the second yellow layer in the same way, moisten, grind, turn over, bend the edge. We make sure that the edge of the wool does not hang, but tightly fits the pattern.

Do not forget that we have two shoes and in parallel we do the same with the second pattern (that's why I have either the left shoe or the right one in the photo).

Now proceed to the next layer-brown. I stack it with tweezers from top to bottom.

We control the surface - whether we have an even pie.

Well, the edge:

Now we arm ourselves with patience, mesh, gloves and begin to grind the surface of the wool. First through the net, then just with gloves. If you have a grinder, use it. In both cases, do not forget to grind on the side.

When the wool stops reaching for the fingers. That is, the surface is slightly tumbled, you can roll it in a roll, wrapping it in a film and a towel.

I roll this pattern 50 times on both sides, smoothing it with my hand between rolls, I don’t press hard, rather medium.

I unfold the roll, smooth out the blanks, carefully take out the patterns from the middle (the patterns are reusable, you can use them more than once).

I smooth out the side seams.

Then we start to play who is used to it. I like to roll in a trash bag - knead like dough. I put the smoothed blanks in a bag and gently start kneading 50 times, smoothing and giving the necessary shape between sets.

(here you can see - you can put a couple of fingers in) you still have to roll. When the block (or leg) comes in tight enough, you can start wallowing on the block.

Rolling on my foot is not very convenient, but perhaps in the old days (before the presence of pads) I did this repeatedly. Here you can call for help from the hall - ask your loved ones to rub and pat the felted boots on your leg. Attention! Felling on the leg must be done with the foot on the sole.

Here you can see - the boots are not taken away, the toe and heel stick out. Since I am sitting, the rise does not match very well. While walking on my foot, I periodically stand on the sole in order to achieve the effect of filling the instep. We make sure that the felt completely fits the leg. Since this model does not have fasteners, it is very important to cover in the instep area and the deflection above the heel as tightly as possible so that the boots do not spank when walking. When the result starts to suit you, inspect the boots, if there are indentations from the fingers (foot bones) - carefully align them and put the boots to dry. At the beginning, they drain on a dry towel for me, and then I put them closer to the battery in winter or in the sun in summer. We enjoy the result and wait a day or two for it to dry.

When dry, we take them along with the sole to a regular repair shop and ask them to glue and sew the sole. It takes about an hour from the master, we take the boots back, we are upset that they sewed crookedly and got dirty 🙂

We'll fix it all! If you didn’t have a block with the right rise, most likely you couldn’t do it perfectly, so the boots squinted. What to do? That's right, give in! We put garbage bags on our feet, and we add them perfectly to the leg. Since the sole does not crawl - now you can do it efficiently. Let dry again.

And the final stage - we arm ourselves with a centimeter, sharp scissors and chalk - draw a model on felt (there are many options on this pattern. Most importantly, do not forget to wipe the cut so that it does not crumble and the model has a finished look (if you made one-color, and the resulting edge suits you - you can leave everything as it is).

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