Spring processing of the garden: four stages. When it is possible to spray fruit trees from pests Spraying fruit trees from pests and diseases

An important place in the schedule of spring gardening is spraying trees from diseases and pests. This procedure must be carried out on time so that rodents, microorganisms and insects do not interfere with the growth, flowering and formation of the crop. Therapeutic and prophylactic spraying of fruit trees in the spring is carried out several times. Use folk remedies and ready-made preparations.

Spring treatment schedule

A caring owner begins to work in the garden before all the snow melts. First of all, you need to examine the bark, find out if there are any damage, frozen branches, dry bark. After a harsh winter, there are many damaged plants, and most of them can be saved.

It is better for an inexperienced gardener to invite a specialist who will correctly provide first aid to trees and shrubs. Further work on spring planting care can be divided into several stages. Here are the approximate terms for processing fruit trees from pests in the spring:

• First half of March. Until the buds wake up, it is worth taking care of the destruction of harmful insects that have overwintered in the bark, the remains of fruits and twisted leaves. If you do not get rid of them, they will soon become active and begin to eat up the buds, and then the flowers.
• First and second decades of April. During this period, buds are formed. To speed up their development and prevent the ovaries from falling off, fruit trees and bushes are sprayed with growth stimulants. In April, plantings may suffer from fungal diseases. This will not happen if you spray the cultures with proven drugs.
• Beginning and middle of May. The buds have blossomed, the trees have faded, the ovaries appear. This is a difficult period for fruit and berry crops: having spent a lot of nutrients, they become resistant to diseases. The gardener must observe the condition of the leaves and branches. If spots appear or the color takes on an uncharacteristic shade, you need to urgently determine what the problem is and run for the drugs.

Purpose and application of chemicals

Preventive and curative treatments require the use of insecticides for fruit trees. Each drug performs its task, so one procedure cannot always be replaced by another.

Depending on which crops are planted, everyone can make an individual processing table and use it as a garden work calendar.

First March processing

It is better to whitewash tree trunks in the fall, but if there was no such possibility, the procedure is postponed to the beginning of March. With this event, the fight against pests of fruit trees in the spring begins. It is necessary to whitewash the trunks so that hares and mice do not gnaw them. In addition, if the bark is not damaged, it will not crack during frost. This is due to the effect of whitewashing carried out before the onset of cold weather. However, in the spring, lime also performs an important function - it protects the bark from burns.

First, the territory and plants are prepared: leaves, dry branches are removed, shelter is removed from the boles. If a fungus has formed on the target, it is cleaned off. Then prepare the solution:

• 2 kg of slaked lime;
• 10 liters of water;
• 350 g of copper sulfate;
• 1 kg of brown clay.

All knead to get a homogeneous mass without lumps. The solution whitens the trunks and bases of the skeletal branches. Whitewash destroys overwintered insects, including eggs and larvae. For humans and animals, this substance is safe.

Don't want to work with lime? This is not a problem: now there are other drugs with which it is easy to achieve a similar effect. So, you can process the bole with a paste with copper sulfate, acrylic whitewash, diesel fuel, acrylic paint. These substances contain components that are harmful to insects. After processing, a film is formed on the surface of the bark, which is harmless to plants. The delayed larvae die almost immediately, and the peduncles and leaves feel good.

Spraying before bud break

When the kidneys swell, pathogens are activated. During this period, it is important that the trees do not get sick with coccomycosis, scab and black cancer. Before bud break, insects hatch from larvae that wintered in the ground and outside the site. Whitewashing will no longer save them, more serious measures are required. In addition to spraying with copper sulfate, the following products are suitable for fruit trees:

• "Lannat";
• "Aktara";
• "Avant";
• "Calypso".

Some preparations are intended for certain types of plants, for example, only for stone fruits, pome fruits or shrubs, so be sure to read the instructions before use. Contact, translaminar and systemic fungicides will help rid the garden of diseases and prevent their occurrence in the future. All of them provide crop protection, but differ in the mechanism of action.

Varieties of fungicides

Contact preparations act at the moment when the pathogenic organism (virus, fungus) comes into contact with the treated leaf, stem or other part of the plant. A fungicide with systemic activity fights the disease at any stage of its development, as the substance penetrates into the tissues.

At the same time, the remedy strengthens the immune system, increasing the resistance of trees to pests, fungal and viral infections. Translaminar fungicides also penetrate the leaves. They move through the vascular system of the plant and accumulate in the tissues, leaving pathogens no chance.

Folk remedy for spraying

Some gardeners prefer not to use chemicals or minimize their use, believing that this way the fruits are more healthy and tasty. In part, they are right, because the effect of chemicals on the composition of fruits has not been fully studied. Here is a recipe for an effective spray mixture:

• 200 g of crushed dry tobacco leaves;
• 25 g orange peels;
• 20 g of onion peel;
• 10 g garlic husks;
• 15 g of pine needles.

Everything is placed in a 3 liter jar. Fill with water heated to 70 degrees, close the lid and leave for a week in a warm room. The finished product is filtered, 10 liters of water are added, shaken and 100 g of tar soap are dissolved. Again, everything is mixed and used for processing. You can spray twice, the second treatment is carried out 11-12 days after the first, but strictly before the buds open.

Care during and after flowering

Just before flowering, the trees are sprayed against codling moth, spotting and scab. It is recommended to use "Carbofox" in the amount of 70 g per bucket of warm water. When the buds begin to bloom, you can not spray the garden. Planting care during this period is reduced to weeding and loosening.

Frost Protection

If there is a threat of night frosts, smoke is carried out. This simple procedure helps prevent the fall of flowers and ovaries. You need to focus on the weather forecast. If weather forecasters promise a cold snap, the gardener should prepare several heaps for smoking in the evening.

A lot of smoke is produced by wet straw mixed with peat, wood chips, branches, manure, tops, leaves. The components are selected so that some of them burn, and the second only smoke. The curtain should envelop the entire garden, so the piles are not located very far from each other, for example, at a distance of 2.5-3 m. The diameter of the fire is from 1 to 1.5 m, the height is 0.5-0.7 m.

The materials in the heap are arranged as follows: what burns well is placed below, manure, peat, damp tops and everything else from which there will be a lot of smoke are placed on top. The shape of the fire should look like a blunt cone. On the one hand, leave uncovered dry material for ignition. The duration of burning depends on the weather. As a rule, the temperature drops to critical levels in the second half of the night and stays at this level until sunrise and another 2-3 hours. All this time, you need to watch the fires and try to make the clouds of smoke envelop the crowns with a cavity.

Processing after flowering

When the petals fall and only the ovaries remain, the plantings need to be sprayed so that they become disease resistant. At the same time, ticks that have survived the winter are destroyed. The beginning of the activity of this pest coincides with the end of flowering. From a tick, this solution will help:

• 70% colloidal sulfur - 80 g;
• water - 10 l;
• tar soap - 100 g.

Sprayed in such a way that within 2-3 hours after treatment there was no dew and rain. If necessary, re-process. You can’t be late, otherwise the tick will damage both shrubs and trees. At this time, it is useful to feed the trees with urea and potassium salt.

Spraying during the growth of the ovaries

At the end of spring, it is worth treating the garden again to protect the crops for the period while the fruits grow and ripen. The final spraying destroys insects that managed to stay alive after previous treatments or arrived from neighboring areas. Also, due to the processing of planting, they acquire resistance to putrefactive infections.

First you need to inspect the trees. If there are no pests, no treatment is necessary. When at least 3-4 insects are present on the bark, in cracks or on the leaves, the garden is treated with carbamide, Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride. You can buy a ready-made preparation designed specifically to protect plantings after flowering.

You can treat a tree or a bush with a solution in any order, but it is more convenient to start from the upper parts of the crown, gradually going down. The trunk and the soil around it are sprayed last. It is important to capture the root part with a diameter of about 1-1.5 m. The optimal time for treatment and prevention procedures is the first half of a calm day. It is better to have clear or cloudy weather.

Calculation of the amount of the drug

How to dilute the fungicide is usually indicated in the instructions, but manufacturers do not specify how much solution is consumed per plant. The exact amount depends on the size of the crown, and example values ​​might be:

• adult tree - 5-6 l;
• young - 1.5−2 l;
• bush - 0.8−2 l.

When the sky is completely overcast, it is better not to carry out any procedures, because there is a high probability of rain, which will wash away the drug before it works. In this case, drops of the solution may fall on the ovaries, which is unacceptable.

Spring garden care is very important because it lays the foundation for the future harvest. Spraying should not be late, and if in doubt, it is better to consult with more experienced gardeners. Then in autumn, summer and autumn, the garden will thank you with a bountiful harvest.

Experts recommend protective spraying in the fall. This day should be without rain, dry and frost-free. At a time when trees bloom, bear fruit and ripen, they do not need protection from various small pests. How and what to spray the garden in the fall, you can learn from this article.

Preparing plants for processing

In winter, insects are looking for a warm place to sit out the cold season there. Such places are fallen leaves, bark and soil. As a result, spraying of fruit trees should be carried out precisely in the autumn period.

Such an action will help rid the trees of scab, spotting, putrefactive diseases and other misfortunes. Due to the fact that under the bark of plants that are not processed, bacteria multiply much faster, the vegetative process slows down.

After winter, the plants slowly "wake up" and their processing matters a lot autumn. Before spraying the trees in the fall, they need to be prepared.

Preparation and processing is carried out in several stages and depends on the age of the seedlings:

1. If the plants are more than six years old, then first you need to remove the old bark and lichen with a metal brush. This is done so that pathogens of various diseases do not have the opportunity to hide.
2. As soon as everything was removed from the trees, spraying is carried out. The very last spraying should be done after all the leaves have fallen off. You can also do this after the first frost. First you need to remove all the leaves, branches and weeds that have fallen.

How to process garden trees

How to spray fruit trees in the fall? Fruit garden plants are best protected by solutions of urea, iron or copper sulphate. Each solution is aimed at a specific type of threat.

And therefore, spraying plants can not be carried out with only one preparation. The tool is selected depending on what result is needed. Experts recommend doing this procedure at the end of October.

inkstone

Fruit trees, such as apple trees, plums, cherries and peaches, are treated and fed with this preparation. After plant treatment get a lot of useful trace elements and iron. Also, after the procedure, oxidative processes improve.

If it is not enough, then the quantity and quality of the crop decreases. Preparing a solution of iron sulphate is easy. It is necessary to mix one kg of dry powder with 15 liters of water.

blue vitriol

If you do not know what trees are sprayed with in the fall, use copper sulfate. This drug, which has a fungicide in its composition, does not allow putrefactive diseases, powdery mildew, scab and spotting to appear.

Plums this drug protects against moniliosis, coccomycosis, clasterosporosis and curly. For pears and apple trees, it provides a protective reaction against monioiosis, scab and phyllosticosis.

If the trees in the garden are not older than six years, then use up to two liters of copper sulfate solution per seedling. If the plant is older, then use up to ten liters.

It is best to spray fruit trees in the garden in the morning or evening. The temperature should be from +5 to +30 degrees, and it is also not desirable that there be wind.

Processing the garden with urea

It is recommended to spray urea on plants in the garden as the first or last step in preparing for winter. The first spraying should be done with a high concentration of the product. Such an action kills all pest larvae.

Saplings in the garden are processed in the fall after half of the leaves have fallen off. To do this, make a solution - 10 liters of water and 500 g of urea. When all the foliage has fallen on the trees, the solution is made more concentrated by 7%.

Need to process trunks, branches and ground. This is an excellent tree protection and fertilizer. Just do not overdo it with the preparation of the solution, if it is too concentrated, then the leaves will get burned and fall off earlier than necessary.

As a result, the intake of nutrients will decrease and the frost resistance of fruit trees will decrease.

The nuances of autumn garden processing

Plants in the garden are sprayed using a manual or mechanized apparatus. This device evenly sprays the drug and protects the person from contact with the latter. Regardless of what principle the device has, they all have spray pump.

Mechanical models differ from manual models in terms of ease of use and difference in cost. Mechanical - much more convenient, but more expensive. Processing trees with a manual machine requires periodic pumping.

When there are wounds and cracks on the trees, then in addition to lime, the following means must also be used:

• cow dung;
• finely chopped straw.

There is another way to protect trees - garden var. You can make it yourself or buy it in a store. To prepare, you need 100 g of rosin and 200 g of beeswax.

These products must be melted separately, then mixed together and add 100 g of unsalted fat to the mixture. Before filling cracks, garden pitch must be heated.

In the southern regions, trees need to be cut in autumn, and in the northern regions, such an action will lead to the freezing of the plant.

The need for autumn processing

Treating the garden from pests and diseases in the fall is extremely important.

There are several reasons for this:

• autumn gardening is a good preventive procedure, reducing the number of wintering pathogens;
• autumn heat and humid air stimulate the reproduction of microbes and bacteria. at this time they penetrate the sap flow system and spread throughout the tree;
• autumn processing of the garden is recommended at the beginning of leaf fall, and during this period the main work has already been completed, the gardener has more free time;
• there is still a lot of time before the fruit ripens and you can apply more concentrated and effective mixtures;
• special attention should be paid to the treatment of young trees. Their immune system is not yet strong and untreated trees may not survive until spring;
• autumn treatment with increased concentrations of drugs destroys most of the insects settled for the winter.

Processing time

Under the trees, the soil is not yet covered with fallen leaves and it also needs to be treated with a prepared pesticide. Thus, we will destroy the pests that have gone to winter in the soil and are waiting for warming from the foliage.

Tree preparation

Beginning in mid-autumn, trees begin to prepare for winter. It is possible to increase the winter hardiness of trees by applying phosphorus and potash fertilizers.

The bases of the skeletal branches and the trunk of the tree are cleaned of dead bark and pests hiding in its cracks. At the same time, the trunks and bases of the branches are covered with a protective layer of garden whitewash. The trunks of young trees are tied with roofing material, covering material or nylon tights.

How to spray fruit trees?

For spraying the garden in the autumn, you can use:

inkstone

Trees are treated with a solution of iron sulphate either before the start of the growing season, or with the onset of leaf fall. Dissolved in water, this powder helps fight diseases of pome and stone fruit trees, and berry bushes. The action of iron sulphate is detrimental to moniliosis, spotting, and scab.

For processing the garden, a 5-7% solution of the substance is used. To prepare the working fluid, you must:

• 500-700 g of powder is dissolved in a small amount of warm water;
• after complete dissolution, the volume of liquid is adjusted to 10 l;
• strained mixture is poured into a sprayer;
• set up a very fine spray;
• evenly cover the leaves and branches with a solution, it’s not scary if some of the liquid gets on the ground. It also needs to be sprayed.

blue vitriol

Wasp copper sulfate or copper sulfate is a recognized fungicide that helps in the fight against spotting, rot, scab, coccomycosis, lichens.

The working solution of copper sulphate for garden treatment should have a concentration of 3-5%. It is prepared in the same way as iron sulphate, only 300-500 g of powder is taken for the same amount of water. Prepare and use in the same way.

Urea or urea

The use of urea or carbamide for fall gardening involves tilling the trees and the soil underneath. The term for such processing is the beginning of leaf fall. A strong solution of urea is able to burn out all wintering forms of pests and diseases.

30="">Drug 30v

Insect-acaricide "Preparation 30V" destroys wintering pests in the garden and on berry bushes: scale insects, whiteflies, leafworms, aphids, mites, moths.

Preparation 30V

The drug disrupts the air and water balance of insects, leading them to death. Pests cannot adapt to the action of the drug, it can be used annually. The advantages of the product include environmental safety, high efficiency, excellent adhesion, the ability to use the entire season from spring to autumn. The drug has a contact effect, it must be applied without leaving untreated areas.

The drug is very easy to breed. It is simply dissolved in water and used within the next 2 hours after dilution.

Treatments are carried out at an outdoor temperature above +4°C.

The concentration of the solution for the treatment of trees and shrubs is 3-4%.

The protective effect of the drug lasts from 5 to 10 days. You can harvest after processing after 20 days.

Diesel fuel or diesel fuel (DT)

Solar oil is an oily liquid. After treating the tree with such a liquid, an oil film forms on the surface of the bark, which destroys pests by blocking their respiratory openings.

Diesel fuel, being the result of oil refining, is not considered an environmentally friendly substance, and therefore it is dangerous to use it in the spring. It is best to use such a tool in the fall, by the time of harvest it will completely disintegrate and will not remain in ripened fruits.

Successful recipes for the use of diesel fuel:

• 1 part of ferrous sulfate is dissolved in 10 parts of water;
• add 10 parts of lime milk 10% concentration;
• 20 parts of diesel fuel are added to the resulting mixture;
• the resulting mixture is used to process plantings after leaf fall.

Another successful recipe:

• 5 parts of clay are dissolved in 5 parts of water;
• 20 parts of diesel fuel are added to the resulting mixture;
• plantings are treated with the resulting emulsion.

Another solution that is effective in pest control:

• grind 1 part of laundry soap;
• the chips are dissolved in 9 parts of water;
• 10 parts of diesel fuel are added to the resulting solution;
• we process the garden with the resulting emulsion.

Using diesel fuel, you need to remember that its density and water are very different, and you won’t be able to get a complete solution. When mixing water and diesel fuel, an emulsion is formed, which is very quickly divided into two fractions. Keeping this in mind, when working with such a mixture, you need to periodically shake the solution.

Bordeaux liquid

Bordeaux liquid is a mixture of copper sulfate and lime in a 1: 1 ratio. This mixture destroys foci of diseases (moniliosis, spotting, rot and fungal diseases, scab), and also destroys wintering forms of insects.

To prepare Bordeaux liquid, you will need lime, blue vitriol, water, any non-metallic utensils and litmus paper:

• in a non-metallic container, 1 kg of copper sulfate is diluted in a small amount of hot water and brought to 50 liters;
• in another container, 1 kg of quicklime is quenched and the solution is diluted to 50 liters, filtered;
• immediately before use, both solutions are combined - a solution of copper sulphate is added to the milk of lime (but not vice versa).
• the resulting mixture is checked with litmus paper - the reaction of the solution should be neutral;
• for better adhesion of the solution per 100 liters of liquid, add 100 g of sugar or 5 cups of paste;
• Ready mixture can be purchased at a garden store.

Bordeaux mixture should be used in warm, dry, calm weather. Up to 10 liters are used per tree.

Bishal

Autumn and early spring processing of fruit trees can be carried out using the Bishal preparation. This is a solution of the natural remedy bischofite. It contains almost all microelements necessary for plants.

Depending on the concentration, trees can be treated with this solution before bud break or before leaf fall, a garden can be cultivated on a green leaf, and can be used to soak seeds.

Autumn treatment of the garden with a solution of bishali will destroy pests prepared for wintering, bacterial, viral and fungal infections.

For autumn processing, bischal is bred in a ratio of 1:10.

Bishal, like urea, burns out all the infection that remains in the cracks of the bark, but unlike urea, it contains many essential trace elements.

The advantages of bishali include the absence of a waiting period after processing the garden.

Soap copper emulsion

Another tool for autumn garden processing is a soap-copper emulsion. The recipe for its preparation is very simple:

• 10 g of copper sulfate are dissolved in 0.5 l of water;
• separately, 100 g of planed laundry soap is diluted in warm water;
• a solution of soap is added to the solution of copper sulfate, the volume of the mixture is adjusted to 10 l;
• if the water is hard (flakes appear in the solution), you can add 50 g of soda ash.

With a high number of wintering pests or a strong infection with an infection, the doses of soap and copper sulfate are increased by 2-3 times.

Adding an article to a new collection

In autumn, in addition to harvesting, summer residents have another important task - preparing the garden for winter. In order to enjoy the fruits again next year, it is important to properly treat the plants and the soil under them from diseases and pests.

Autumn processing of the garden includes spraying the crowns of bushes and trees with insecticides (Aktara, Inta-Vir) and fungicides, digging the soil, fertilizing and protecting plants from rodents. With the onset of cold weather, heat-loving crops are additionally covered with spunbond and mulched with sawdust, peat, dry leaves and other materials.

Pest Control

In early autumn, trapping belts are removed from the trees and burned along with caterpillars of the codling moth, weevils and other garden pests that have climbed there. With the onset of cold weather, insects for winter hibernation burrow into the soil of tree trunks and under the bark of plants, so the first step is to clean the stems from old bark, moss and lichens, cover the wounds with garden pitch and whiten the trees with a special solution with the addition of copper sulfate.

Spraying the garden in the spring is an important agrotechnical event, and everyone knows this. Sometimes site owners approach spraying the garden in the spring formally, without thinking too much about the essence of this agronomic procedure. Then the annual spraying of the garden in the spring runs the risk of becoming "senseless and merciless", even dangerous.

Our desire to put a barrier to pests and plant diseases is quite understandable. In the weather in the Middle lane, fruit and berry crops are regularly threatened by at least 70 types of insect pests and about 20 varieties of infectious diseases. Humanity has ways to suppress as many of them as possible, but then the environment and food will become dangerously poisonous for humans as well. Finding balance is the main task of spring events.

Refusal of processing

It must be admitted that the absence of global preventive irrigation is by no means the worst option. Definitely it is more reasonable than any excess.

• It is permissible to relax a little if the summer cottage is quite young and has not yet accumulated a large mass of harmful organisms.
• It is necessary to plant unpretentious, resistant varieties in the garden (there are trouble-free roses, scab-free apple trees, blackcurrants without mites and red-gall aphids, gooseberries without a sphere library, strawberries with almost no gray rot, etc.) and in the best place.
• Regular agrotechnical measures are needed (thinning, pruning, digging, deoxidation, fertilization, mulching, traps, etc.).
• It is useful to apply spraying with biological preparations and stimulants from spring to autumn: immunomodulators Epin Extra, Zircon, Gumi; biopesticides Strobi and Fitoverm, microbiological agents such as Fitosporin. All of them act on already vegetative plants.

Even the most ardent supporters of organic farming are ready to give up if a significant part of the crop regularly dies in the garden. The way out is to seek a compromise: minimal harm with maximum benefit. It is necessary to reduce the number of pests and diseases, not forgetting about the environment.

All at once

"Give me something to spray everything and everything in the garden at once in the spring" echoes before the start of the season in garden shops. Even a simple and logical question from a reasonable seller: "Are you from diseases or from pests?" - able to lead the buyer into a stupor. Of course, a nimble seller will hand over some treasured product, to the delight of the buyer. As a rule, there are two results, and both are disappointing:

1. There is almost no effect from spraying.

2. The garden accumulates poisons.

Spring is a flexible concept

"Wide is my native country," and in garden recommendations one has to separate the seasons of the calendar and natural seasons. For agrotechnical measures, two natural indicators are important (dates differ by a month or more in different regions) - air temperature and stages of plant development in the spring garden:

• Before the kidneys swelled
• "green cone" - the very beginning of the extension of the leaves,
• budding,
• bloom,
• young ovaries.

The concept of "spring spraying" is very conditional, since there is no clear boundary between the spring and summer periods. However, two stages can be clearly distinguished: processing before the swelling of the kidneys and after this event (when the leaves and buds are advanced).

When, how and how to treat the garden from diseases and pests

The earliest term is the phase of dormant buds

We carry out the first spraying in the spring when low positive temperatures occur in the garden (+4 +6 degrees or slightly higher), but always before the buds swell, for dormant plants. Everywhere there is a different height and speed of melting of the snow cover, and cultures wake up at different times, so it is not always possible to meet one specific day. Black currants and awaken very early, but a bed of strawberries, covered roses and grapes can be under snow for a long time (especially on the northern slope).

Exceptions for plants

What horticultural crops can not be sprayed at all during this period

• Honeysuckle practically does not get sick and extremely rarely suffers from pests - if this is your good case, then we bypass it for now.
• This may also apply to blackberries (especially late ripening ones).
• If modern blackcurrant varieties are planted in your garden that are not damaged by powdery mildew and bud mites, then there is no point in spraying in early spring either. You still can’t get the glass inside the shoots, and the aphids are still in deep sleep (we will defeat it later with a biological product like Fitoverm).
• Do not need to be sprayed with fungicides and gooseberry varieties that are hardy to the sphere library.
• In many gardens, sea buckthorn does not get sick.
• In the case when your pears do not show serious problems from year to year, it is also permissible to put them alone.
• If there were previously prosperous years, there will be no need for disease protection for apple varieties that are immune to scab and hardy to moniliosis (fruit rot).
• Finally, the vines often do not need any treatment in the northern viticulture zone.
• For ornamental shrubs and perennial flowers, a thoughtful individual approach is needed.

This is a very important point - to determine the range of problem-free plants that do not require excessive care: for us - saving time, effort, money, and most importantly - the benefit of the environment. Chemical protection of the garden is carried out not all the time and not "just in case", but at real risk.

Scope

Before the buds swell, berries and fruit trees (strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, cherries, cherries, cherry plums, quince, peach, apricots, grapes), rose garden, flower beds need to be sprayed. At this time, the impact is more focused on diseases and only partially on pests, many of which are still dormant.

What to spray, optimal processing methods

Hot water

Bringing a bucket of water to a boil, immediately pour it into a watering can and water the bushes of any color of currants and gooseberries (sometimes they also capture raspberries and blackberries) - only over the sleeping bushes. It is believed that this partially destroys wintering forms of pests and diseases. With water with a temperature of strictly +65 degrees, we pour bushes of garden strawberries from a watering can immediately after the snow melts - from a strawberry microscopic mite and a nematode.

"Blue spray" - Bordeaux liquid

This is an ancient, invented a century and a half ago, but still the most useful measure against almost all fungal and bacterial infections on all crops and on the soil surface. It is carried out with such a tool as strong Bordeaux liquid - at a concentration of about 3% (and not 1%, as in green foliage). In the instructions for the drug, sometimes there is a discrepancy in the ratio of lime and copper sulfate in solution. This confusion is due to the fact that quicklime was used in the original recipe, and now slaked lime (calcium hydroxide) is most often taken, and more is required. When a store-bought Bordeaux mixture is purchased, it is better to act clearly according to the instructions. If it deals only with the preparation of a 1% solution, then for a 3% solution we simply reduce the amount of water by a factor of three. With independent purchase of ingredients for 3 liters of water, we take 100 grams of copper sulfate and slaked lime (or about 150-200 quicklime).

The alternative is Burgundy liquid. We cook in the same way as Bordeaux, but instead of lime we use soda (calcined or food); sometimes we also add a spoonful of soap or sugar to better stick to the branches. There is an option where we replace part of the soda with mustard powder and ammonia; let the mixture boil with the passage of a chemical reaction, and then immediately carry out the processing.

Drug 30+

The official manufacturer is only NPF Sober. This is an emulsion of vaseline oil, originally used in the spring to combat the scale insect (the most dangerous fruit pest) in the Krasnodar Territory. It turned out that the remedy is practically harmless to humans, but it disrupts the breathing of insects wintering on the branches of bushes and trees. From spraying in early spring, not only scale insects die, but also other insects wintering in crowns, even eggs and larvae. We stir a liter of the product in two buckets of water and spray the garden, spending a liter or two per bush and up to five liters per large tree. The substance is dangerous for bees. A similar product, Prophylactin, also contains a similar oil, but plus liquid karbofos (malathion), which is highly poisonous and useless at this time.

More spring spraying options

In early spring, a strong solution of urea (600 grams per bucket) is also used, sometimes with the addition of copper sulfate (50 grams).

Iron sulfate is also used for spraying, especially in the fight against lichen and moss, as well as against various diseases on grapes, roses, and fruit trees. A kilogram of iron sulfate is dissolved in twenty liters of water (for stone fruits such as cherries, the concentration is weaker, 600 grams per two buckets).

Both products are considered very burning, and experienced gardeners recommend using them not in early spring, but in late autumn. In addition, spraying them in the spring can delay bud break in the garden for a week.

Not an option

Agronomists do not advise resorting to folk remedies such as salt, diesel fuel, kerosene.

I would especially like to say about Nitrofen. The drug has long been recognized as the most dangerous carcinogen and banned in many countries, including Russia!!! You will not find it on sale (and you don’t need to).

Spraying at the stage of bud break ("green cone") and nomination of buds

At this time, all sorts of harmful organisms begin to wake up - both microscopic and those that are larger. A cool rainy spring ensures the early development of diseases, and sunny weather will please all insects.

Treatment for diseases (fungicides)

Preparations with copper

It is not too late to use Bordeaux liquid for continuous processing - only at a concentration of 1%. Flowers, grapes, apple-pears, cherries-plums, flowers in spring are also treated with HOM, Abiga-Peak is also used.

Biologicals

It is during this period that adherents of ecological farming carry out the first two treatments with such means as Fitosporin (everything in a row), Alirin (strawberries from gray rot, fruit trees), Fitolavin (apple trees from fruit rot).

This group includes the drug Strobi. It is a naturally occurring fungicide. It is used on apple and pear at the very beginning of its vegetation.

Prognoz (and other drugs with propiconazole)

Goods of identical composition: Forecast, Agrolekar, Chistoflor, Propi Plus. These are modern fungicides that are considered not too toxic. They process berries in the budding phase: strawberries (from gray rot), raspberries, gooseberries, currants.

Pureflower (and other products with difenoconazole)

Pureflower, Rayok, Skor, Diskor, Guardian, Plantenol represent the same contents. They are used on pome and stone fruits and berries, as well as on beautiful shrubs, roses and other flowers.

Topaz (Penconazole)

In the spring - this is the prevention of rust and powdery mildew on flowers, currants, gooseberries.

Thiovit Jet

This is sulfur - against powdery mildew on currants, apple trees, roses.

Horus

Designed for grapes, all pome and stone fruit crops. It is considered not too dangerous for bees, birds and people.

Spraying against pests (insecticides)

In this phase, biological insecticides are practically useless: there are no aphids, no caterpillars, no spider mites in the garden yet. It makes sense to use poison if last year there was a dominance of pests (weevil, raspberry beetle, sea buckthorn fly, codling moths, leafworms, etc.). You can not spray at the time of flowering - you need either before this joyful event, or immediately after, strictly according to the instructions.

Poisons-pyrethroids

This is, Spark Double effect, Decis, Kinmiks.

Organophosphate poison (malathion)

These are Karbofos, Fufanon, Iskra M.

Double poisons

This is Alatar, Inta-CM.

Copper preparations are recommended to be used separately. The rest of the fungicides can be mixed with pesticides, after checking whether this causes a violent chemical reaction. Studies show that the addition of a stimulant such as Epin Extra allows you to reduce the dosage of chemicals by one and a half to two times while maintaining effectiveness.

Regular and proper care of fruit trees and shrubs is the key to a good harvest.

In spring, not only nature wakes up but also its pests.

Therefore, the first processing of the garden after winter plays an important role and is complex care of garden plants.

As soon as the snow melts, you can start to clean the garden from old branches. They are collected and burned.