Plinth panels allow not only to decorate a residential building from the outside, emphasizing its style decision. They also protect the foundation and draft walls, extending the life of the entire structure, making it more reliable. But how to distinguish plinth panels for the exterior of a house and install them correctly? You can't do without theoretical knowledge and some practical advice.

Facade panels for walls and plinth - what is their difference

- these are slabs connected in a certain way for the exterior decoration of residential buildings. They are imitate a covering from a natural brick or a stone. Similar to siding, but characterized by improved performance properties. Among the variety, panels are distinguished for finishing the basement - the lower part of the structure resting on the foundation. How do they differ from similar wall materials?

• They have great thickness. Usually it ranges from 15-25 mm.
• More resistant to atmospheric phenomena due to the presence of special polymers in the composition.
• They have increased strength, resistant to mechanical damage.

All this is important, since the panels must reliably protect the base from negative external factors. These are frost heaving of the soil, constant pollution, exposure to moisture during precipitation and snow melting.

Due to its operational properties, the plinth cladding material can be used to finish the entire facade. At the same time, ordinary facade siding is not suitable for a basement.

Types of plinth panels

Exterior wall panels can vary in materials, design, and dimensions. These are the main criteria for their selection.

Dimensions of individual cladding elements

Plinth panels are easy to distinguish not only in thickness, but also in size. Most often they have an approximate aspect ratio of 1:2.5. For conventional facade siding, the length to width ratio is approximately 1:10. Accordingly, the individual elements for plinth cladding are rather short.

But their width can vary significantly and range from 16 to 50 cm. Manufacturers produce such panels for the convenience of designing a narrow strip at the bottom of the walls. Sometimes it is enough to lay them in just one row.

The type of imitated material also affects the dimensions of the products. So, the panels “under the chipped stone” will be shorter and wider than the elements with the decor “red brick”.

When buying, please note that each panel, in addition to the actual one, also has a useful size. This is the apparent height and width of the product after its installation.

Panel material

A wide range includes products made of polypropylene, fiber cement, galvanized steel.

Polypropylene not to be confused with polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Polypropylene lining is much more weather resistant. It is also characterized by a high degree of strength, which is achieved by casting. Finished products are lightweight, easy to clean and authentically imitate the relief of natural stone.

metal panels- These are products based on galvanized steel sheets. They are also coated with a primer, anti-corrosion compound, have a decorative and transparent protective layer of polymers.

Metal sheathing meets all the requirements for the material for the design of the base. However, it does not always reliably imitate natural material and may be exposed to moisture in the places of trimming.

Main Components fiber cement boards- cement, cellulose fiber, water, quartz sand. They are made by pressing at high temperatures or pressing with further “ripening” for a month (similar to concrete). Finished facades made of CSP are distinguished by a high degree of decorativeness, low thermal conductivity and strength.

Plinth panel design

Plinth cladding panels can imitate several dozen coatings made from natural materials. Most popular options:

• dolomite;
• granite;
• rubble stone;
• sandstone;
• rocky stone;
• clinker brick;
• aged brick.

Facade panels with imitation stone of large sizes are associated with a fortress, a castle and visually increase the dimensions of the building, creating a feeling of its increased reliability.

If desired, you can use panels with imitation wood chips. This is a rather original solution. It requires careful study if the walls of the house are decorated in a different way.

The panels differ not only in the type of imitated stones, but also in the width of the seams between them. This point is important to consider if you plan to grout them. The wider the seam, the easier it will be for you to work with it.

Pay attention to the relief of the cladding elements. If it is very pronounced, be prepared for the fact that pollution on such a coating will accumulate more often.

Facade panels with insulation

As a rule, the plinth, when sheathed with decorative material, is additionally insulated. This is done with the help of heat-insulating material, which is placed in the cells of the crate. An expensive, but time-saving and time-saving alternative is facade panels with insulation for the exterior of a house.

They are a “pie” of three layers:

1. The basis. Its role is played by the substrate or moisture resistant.
2. Insulation. It can be extruded polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene. In this case, the best option, taking into account operational properties, is polyurethane foam.
3. decorative layer. It can be made of metal, ceramics, cement, polymer composition, clinker. Polymer and clinker panels are good solutions in terms of price and quality ratio.

Thermal panels, as well as facade cladding without insulation, are presented in a wide range.

Installation of plinth panels

You can independently sheathe the plinth with finishing material, even if you are not a master with many years of experience. To do this, you need to know the technology of work and some subtleties.

Stage of preparatory work

Getting started, carefully inspect the surface of the base. If it has protruding elements that can be removed, you need to do this. You should also level the work surface as much as possible.

At the next stage of the installation of facade panels, markings are applied to the walls with their own hands. Its quality determines the evenness of the fastening of the frame, the starting profile and the entire skin. note: the lower edge of the basement is flush with the ground if it does not freeze in winter. Otherwise, it is raised by 15-20 cm.

Marking is performed above the specified level by about 5 cm. To do this, use a coated or painted cord. It is mounted on two self-tapping screws screwed in the outer corners, set according to the level. The cord is pulled and abruptly released, “beating off” the line on the wall.

Frame assembly and insulation

For sheathing the basement, it is better to use not a wooden crate, but sturdy frame made of galvanized profiles. It will withstand the weight of both polypropylene and metal panels with insulation.

The installation of the structure is as follows:

1. Special U-shaped brackets are attached to the surface of the wall with a marking orientation. The horizontal fastening step is equal to ½ of the panel width, and vertically - ½ of its height.
2. Guide profiles are inserted into the brackets, setting the distance between them and the wall with the help of fasteners.
3. The resulting cells are carefully filled with insulation.

The frame can be single layer or double layer. In the second case, another layer of galvanized profiles is mounted perpendicular to the guides. Self-tapping screws for metal are suitable as fasteners. The rest of the technology is unchanged.

If you are finishing the house with thermal panels, then the frame will be single-layer, and the cells will be without insulation. In this case, the waterproofing is laid before the installation of the profiles.

Fastening facade panels

The first row of facade panels for plinth sheathing is attached to the starting level. It is pre-fixed on the lower guide profile.



Panels are installed from left to right. In the upper part they are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws with a wide washer. Between themselves, the finishing elements are joined using a special locking connection.

note: a temperature gap must be left between the screw head and the frame. To do this, the fastener is twisted to the end, and then weakened by half a turn.

The installation of a decorative facing strip completes the work.

Thus, the variety of facade panels is an opportunity to creatively approach the design of the house from the outside. The simplicity of their installation is an opportunity to gain invaluable experience and save the family budget on the services of finishing specialists.

Video: typical editing mistakes and how to avoid them

When the house is built, you should take care of the facade decoration, which should be not only beautiful, but also functional. Today, there is a huge variety of materials that protect the walls of a frame house from moisture, natural precipitation, and wind. The most common material today can be called facade panels.

Installation of facade panels

The surface on which the facade panels are attached must be clean (without fungus and mold formations), as well as smooth and without cracks - they must first be eliminated.

A crate made of metal treated or treated with an anti-corrosion spray, such as zinc, is mounted around the perimeter.

The formed frame creates and provides a flat surface. A heater or is added to the resulting voids. This is necessary for the so-called heat shield effect, it effectively retains heat indoors.

Installation of the first facade panel

With
the tart plank is attached at the lowest point of the building, it is necessary to leave 10 cm from each edge of the wall in order to mount the outer corners there. It is important that its position remains horizontal, since the rest of the panels will be oriented towards it.

Sometimes it is necessary to cut the panels of the 1st row, for this you can use a circular saw, in such situations the starting profile is not used: the panels are only fastened through the front side with 5 nails or more, if necessary. A separate hole is drilled under each nail.

Subsequent rows of façade panels should be installed with a small distance so that the material has room for expansion.

Often the top row also needs trimming, do not violate the integrity of the protective layer in this case, otherwise the facade panels will not only look ugly, but their technical characteristics will deteriorate.

Types of facade panels and the specifics of their installation

• Fiberboards and Japanese fiberboards

Consist of reinforcing fibers and mineral fillers. They are distinguished by a high level of resistance to external influences and good flexibility.

Such panels are attached to an already attached frame (if we are talking about 14 mm panels), or to the supporting frame of the building (16 mm panels and more). Thin panels are mounted on galvanized screws, thicker ones are fixed with clamps.

Fiber panels are installed on the frame, which, in turn, is fixed to the wall on brackets through paronite (it will help minimize the load on the frame structure at the time of settlement). A vapor barrier film is placed between the cells of the frame, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.

Additional workflow levels: a basement ebb is fixed to the frame (above the blind area by 5-10 cm);

Kleimers for installation of plates are placed on all vertical guides.

A seam bar is made to properly position the plates relative to each other.

On the clamps located below, fiber plates are put on and fixed with fasteners. All joints are processed and painted in the color of the panels.

• Installation of plastic panels.

To install them, it is also necessary to remove the previous decoration of the house, remove irregularities. Then the walls must be marked with lines clearly vertically and horizontally at a distance of 50-70 cm. It can be wooden or metal, it is reinforced in the area and. The cells of the lattice are also filled with insulation and film.

The specificity of the work lies in the fact that plastic panels are mounted from the corner of the building and from the bottom row, by connecting locks and attaching them to self-tapping screws.

• Installation of metal panels. Facade (siding)

Differ in the increased level of durability and a polymeric sheeting.

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Installation of facade panels - how to properly fix the basement siding?

The progenitor of facade panels appeared in the 19th century in the USA: they were simple planed boards that were stuffed on the wall with a herringbone pattern so that rainwater rolled down. For more than a century, modern technology has turned them into polymer siding. Such siding is a well-thought-out engineering system, which consists of separate panels and protects the house from rain, snow, wind and sun.

At first, the panels looked like wooden siding, but the possibilities of plastic allow you to convey any texture. This is how facade panels appeared, which accurately imitate brick, decorative stone or tile facing. And besides the excellent aesthetic properties, the great advantage is that the installation of facade panels is a quick and uncomplicated process.

That's what makes basement siding so popular. This is a simple and affordable way to transform a building without major interventions in its structure.

Facade panels are an affordable way to transform a building. (photo #1.1-1.2)

Types of facade panels

The market of finishing materials offers many types of facade panels:

• metal panels
• wood fiber panels
• Vinyl panels
• Sandwich panels (three-layer cassette)
• Thermal panels
• Fiber cement panels
• stone panels
• Glass panels
• Polymer panels with imitation of brick and stone

Let's talk a little about the most popular types of panels.

metal panels made of galvanized steel or aluminium. There are corrugated, perforated and smooth. They are more often used for cladding non-residential premises - from garages to industrial buildings.

Pros: strength, resistance to temperature extremes and precipitation, incombustibility.

Cons: heat up in the sun and supercool in the cold, low heat and noise insulation, corrosion if the protective coating is damaged.

Fiber cement panels appeared in Japan. They are made from cement and mineral filler (about 90%), and the rest of the composition is cellulose fibers, which give the panel elasticity. Often such panels are made with a wood-like coating, it is also possible to imitate other materials - stone, brick, etc.

Pros: the panels are environmentally friendly, resistant to temperature extremes and high humidity, provide good heat and sound insulation, do not rust or rot, and have a long service life.

Cons: high price, heavy weight, require respiratory and vision protection when performing work.

Fiber cement panels - high aesthetics and high price. (photo # 2)

Wood fiber panels glued from split wood under pressure. From external influences they are protected by paint, veneer or polymer coating. Eco-friendly material that looks like natural wood.

Pros: environmental friendliness, affordable price, low weight, good bending strength. Wooden panels provide good heat and sound insulation and, thanks to the production technology, are not prone to cracking.

Cons: relatively short service life (10-15 years), combustible, afraid of moisture, require processing.

stone panels- made of porcelain stoneware, marble, etc.

Pros: solid appearance, impact resistance, high frost and moisture resistance, resistance to aggressive influences, incombustibility.

Cons: due to the very significant weight, it exerts a serious load on the foundation and structures, therefore it further increases the cost of construction and, in principle, is not suitable for all houses.

Porcelain stoneware panels are a solid, but very heavy finishing material. (Photo No. 3)

Thermal panels- an attempt to combine both insulation and exterior finish in one material at once, and quite successful. Panels are used for both walls and plinth. Thermal panels are made from foamed polyurethane, which consists of 98% of the best insulation - air. The decorative and protective finish of the panels is made of rolled marble chips and clinker.

Pros: excellent heat and noise insulation, resistance to moisture, to any temperature and their differences, fire safety.

There are few disadvantages of such panels, and the most significant is the presence of toxic components in their composition.

Sandwich panels are a “sandwich” of two sheets of metal with insulation in the vapor barrier in the middle. In fact, these are no longer facade panels, but full-fledged wall panels, from which, as from a designer, a finished house is assembled. They are more commonly used in commercial rather than residential construction.

Pros: the resulting wall is able to withstand frost, heat, has excellent sound insulation and thermal insulation.

Cons: the panels are easily damaged, as a result of mechanical impact, scratches and dents may remain on them.

To date, the most popular material is polymer facade panels - due to their low price, unpretentiousness, durability, lightness and strength.

Facade panels under brick and stone - an exact imitation of natural materials. (Photo No. 4)

What are the advantages of polymer facade panels?

• Polymer panels are lightweight and durable.
• Polymer facade panels are not afraid of temperature changes and easily withstand temperatures from -50 to +50 °C. They do not lead, do not warp, they do not crack.
• The panels are not afraid of mold, fungus, pests and other biological threats.
• The panels retain their appearance for many years and do not require any maintenance. The only thing you will have to do with them is to wash them with water under pressure once a year; a regular household high-pressure washer will do just fine with this task.
• Do not require scrupulous alignment of walls for installation.
• No foundation work required. Polymer facade panels are one of the lightest claddings. Together with the crate, they are about 10 times lighter than brick cladding of the same area.
• Polymer facade panels are distinguished by an incredible variety of colors and textures. With their help, you can create almost any design of the building, decorating the walls even under a brick, even under a wild stone.
• A wall sheathed with polymer facade panels is a ventilated facade that perfectly preserves a wooden wall and prevents a brick or concrete wall from getting damp and moldy.

It is here that lies the answer to the question about the reasons for the increasing popularity of polymer basement siding. It is difficult to find another facing material with such a combination of qualities for this money.

Polymer facade panels benefit from their low price, unpretentiousness, durability, lightness and strength.

How to choose polymer facade panels

Important points to pay attention to when choosing and buying a cladding. Good material is characterized by such signs:

• Thickness. A good panel is never thinner than 16 millimeters. Thinner panels will break easily under temperature changes or mechanical stress.
• High-quality panels are provided with stiffening ribs, giving them additional strength.
• Package. Good material is packed with high quality, usually in the package between the panels there is a special foamed polymer film that prevents the panels from rubbing against each other.
• The seller must have and present, upon request, certificates of quality on the panel.

Be sure to pay attention to the manufacturer's brand. Large companies with a long history are technologically ahead of their competitors, on the one hand, and value their reputation, on the other. So, in the Russian market, one of the proven manufacturers of polymer facade panels is the Alta-profile company. They are distinguished by the most thoughtful design: from the presence of stiffeners that help resist mechanical stress and fight deformation during temperature changes, to carefully calculated panel dimensions, making them easy to carry and install. And most importantly, strict quality control is carried out at all stages of production, so the manufacturer gives a guarantee of quality and safety for its products.

Polymer facade panels "Alta-profile", one of the leading manufacturers in the Russian market. (Photo No. 5)

Do-it-yourself installation of facade panels

One of the main advantages of polymer facade panels is ease of installation. If necessary, almost any homeowner can handle this task on their own. All you need to transform your home is attentiveness, accuracy, basic building skills and a simple set of tools:

• plumb line
• Level
• Roulette
• Hacksaw
• A hammer
• Metal shears
• self-tapping screws
• screwdriver
• Lace and chalk
• Optionally - a puncher if the wall is concrete or brick.
• Optionally - a grinder with a speed controller.

And, of course, the actual front panels and accessories: the starting bar, j-profile, as well as the outer corner.

It is not necessary, but desirable, to familiarize yourself with the range of other elements - such as different types of decorative trims and cladding elements - and purchase them if necessary. In addition, you have to solve the issue with the crate.

Facing begins with the calculation and acquisition of the required amount of material. You need to take it with a small margin - up to 10% of the material can go to fit. It is important to think carefully about the aesthetic side in advance - for example, how to fasten facade panels under stone of different textures so that they combine with each other in terms of both design and technology, because. they can have different thicknesses.

All work is carried out in warm weather, the optimum temperature is 10-15 degrees above zero.

Stage 1. Preparing the walls

We remove from the surface of the walls all protruding decorative elements and everything that may interfere with installation. If there are metal elements on the walls, then we check them for rust, remove it. We apply protective compounds to metal and wood. Please note that polymer facade panels serve for at least thirty years, so it is better to treat the processing carefully - so that you do not have to look under the cladding ahead of time.

Polymer facade panels serve for at least 30 years, so you need to carefully consider the processing of load-bearing walls - so that you don’t have to look under the cladding ahead of time.

Stage 2. Installation of the crate and insulation

Facade panels are mounted strictly on the crate. The most commonly used wooden, it can also be metal and plastic.

The installation of the crate must be approached as seriously as possible, since errors at this stage will lead to incorrect assembly of the entire wall and subsequent deformation of the facade.

We beat off the horizon around the entire perimeter of the building and make markings on the walls. If necessary, we set the ebb at this level. Vertical and horizontal strips are installed strictly according to the levels and exactly in the same plane; the distance between the planks of the vertical crate should be 30-40 centimeters. The plane of the wall is easiest to bring out with lacing.

Errors during the installation of the battens can lead to incorrect assembly of the entire facade and its subsequent deformation.

Relevant for our climate: before attaching the facade panels to the wall, the building can be insulated. The sequence of actions in this case is as follows: first, a crate is made, then a heater is laid in the space between the planks. A vapor barrier film must be stretched over it and only then the panels are attached. It is important to leave a ventilation gap between the film and the panels: otherwise, the wall on which the crate is attached may become damp and moldy.

There is another method of insulation and installation of the crate: special suspensions are mounted on the plane of the wall covered with vapor barrier, and the insulation plates are simply pricked on them. Further, with the help of special fasteners, a crate is mounted on top of the wind protection. This method is faster, more convenient and technologically advanced.

Installation of insulation under the crate. (photo #6)

The crate is attached to wooden walls with self-tapping screws, to brick and concrete - with dowels. If you do not use a special fastening system, but opted for a wooden crate, then you need to choose slats with a moisture content of no higher than 15-18%. Of course, all bars of wooden crates must be treated with antiseptic compounds before installation. When choosing a plastic crate, you don’t have to take care of anything else: it will provide ventilation due to perforation and is not subject to any extraneous influences.

A separate question is related to how to fix the facade panels on the foundation of the house. We will talk about this a little lower - the order is the same, the difference is in the device of the crate (more precisely, in the ability to refuse it).

After you have set all the laths of the crate vertically, horizontally and in one plane, you can move on.

Stage 3. Installing the starting bar

The starting bar can be replaced by a j-profile, which is quite often used as its quality, especially in cases where the house is on uneven terrain. Installation is carried out according to a pre-marked horizon and must be checked by the level. The bar is fixed with self-tapping screws every 30-40 centimeters.

Starting bar and J-profile. (photo No. 7.1-7.2)

If the starting bar consists of several sections, then a gap of 2-3 mm must be left between them to compensate for thermal expansion.

Then we install the outer corner, also carefully checking its position with a level, and proceed to the installation of the actual panels. You can also cash out door and window openings using an external corner or special trim systems.

Stage 4. Installation of facade panels

Before installation, the panels should be in a warm room at a temperature of about 25 degrees.

The panels are mounted on the wall in the direction from left to right and from bottom to top - this is exactly what the locks molded on them are designed for.

We insert the first panel into the starting bar and fasten it with galvanized screws.

Important: it is necessary to leave a gap of 6-10 mm to the corner of the wall - for possible temperature deformations (in length, depending on temperature, the panel can increase / decrease up to 4 mm, in height up to 2.5 mm).

When joining the facade panel with an external corner, it is necessary to cut it vertically in order to obtain a flat surface. Panels are cut with a hacksaw or grinder at the lowest speed to avoid overheating and melting of the panel.

Fastening facade panels with and without insulation. (Photo No. 8)

How to fix facade panels? For this, they have a special perforation. Self-tapping screws must be screwed strictly perpendicular to the crate and strictly in the center of the hole. Small gaps on the right and left of the self-tapping screw are left in order to compensate for thermal contraction and expansion of the panels, therefore, it is necessary to fasten with self-tapping screws only in regular places, without making other holes.

We screw the screws not point-blank, leaving a gap of a millimeter and a half, so that the panel can freely shrink in the cold and expand in the heat, without risking breaking. It is easy to maintain the required clearance: first we screw the self-tapping screw into the stop, and then unscrew it half a turn.

To fasten the panels, it is better to use galvanized self-tapping screws. If this is neglected, then it is quite likely to get rusty streaks on the facade of the building in the future.

Important rules for fastening facade panels: screw in the screws strictly perpendicular to the crate and strictly in the center of the hole and do not screw it all the way, leaving a gap of 1-1.5 mm for thermal expansion.

Installation of facade panels "Alta-profile"

The peculiarity of using Alta-profile facade panels is that the company's assortment includes all accessories and additional elements that can simplify installation as much as possible.

First of all, this is the Alta-profile facade fastening system, designed specifically for brand siding and facade panels. The plastic crate does not rot, does not dampen, does not swell from moisture, like wood, does not corrode and does not load the foundation, like metal. In addition, the cladding assembled on this crate is a full-fledged ventilated facade that will protect the wall from the development of fungus, mold and other problems associated with high humidity.

Another important plus is that it has the same coefficient of thermal expansion as the panels themselves, so that with temperature changes the facade will not warp and break out. The profiles of the system repeat the geometry of the panels. It is important to bear in mind that different profiles are produced for different collections - you need to be careful when buying.

Plastic facade fastening system “Alta-Profile” (photo No. 9)

In addition, additional elements can be used: platbands, slopes, corners, as well as a decorative corner finishing system. Thus, it is possible to significantly simplify the work and create a facade that is complete from an aesthetic point of view.

How to fasten facade panels to the foundation

The technology of fastening facade panels to the foundation is completely identical to fastening to the wall - everything that has been said above about the insulation and installation of the crate is also relevant here.

If the wall length or height exceeds six meters, then it is better to divide the cladding into sections. This can be done with two mirrored j-profiles. In general, manufacturers usually have a whole range of facing elements for corners and door / window openings; we do not recommend saving on them, since, firstly, they significantly increase the ease of installation, and, secondly, they allow you to make it with maximum aesthetics.

Having fixed the first panel, we insert the next one to the right a little higher, leading it into the lock of the first panel and sliding it down to the starting bar, after which we fasten it in the same way. Thus, we make the entire bottom row to the opposite corner. Next, we proceed to the second row - and according to this algorithm, all the work goes.

During installation, the top panel cannot be pressed tightly against the bottom - a gap of 1.5-2 mm is required for thermal expansion. If you do not follow this rule, then in the heat the front panels can go in waves.

It is better to install panels with a slight offset of a third or half of the length. Thus, the facade will look more natural (especially if you are installing the facade panel under a brick), and the strength of the side joints of adjacent panels will increase significantly. Since the places of their connections in this case will be securely fixed by the solid section of the adjacent panel located below.

In conclusion, it is worth recalling that polymer facade panels have not stopped in development, and the technology for their installation is also developing. For each type of facade panels, their installation nuances are possible, there are differences in how to fix facade panels under brick, tile or stone. Therefore, before starting work, it is imperative to study the instructions from the panel manufacturer.

Plastic panels used for exterior walls come in a wide variety and are often used for house cladding. The installation technology is easy to master on your own, but first you need to choose the type of panels, as well as the tools and mounting option.

Finishing the house with panels: the pros and cons

The appearance of the facade is an important aspect of the arrangement of a residential building. For this purpose, there are many types of materials that differ in properties, cost and other features. Plastic facade panels are a popular solution for decorating the facade of a residential building. They have a variety of appearance and have high technical characteristics.

Externally, PVC does not differ from other panel options.

Plastic products differ from metal and other options at a lower cost. In many cases, this factor plays an important role. At the same time, PVC panels have the following advantages:

• the light weight of the material avoids additional load on the foundation and load-bearing elements of the building;
• PVC resistance to precipitation and temperature changes ensures their durability;
• a variety of colors makes it easy to find a particular option;
• simple installation is carried out without a large number of fasteners;
• to clean the panels, it is enough to wipe them with a damp cloth;
• damaged elements can be easily replaced with new ones without completely dismantling the wall cladding.

PVC panels are available in all hardware stores. When choosing, it is worth considering the shortcomings of the material. An important property of plastic is expressed in the fact that the panels are not sufficiently resistant to ultraviolet radiation. In order to avoid damage to the skin, you need to choose panels with a good protective layer. And it is also worth considering that low-quality elements are more prone to deformation and cracks than thick and durable panels.

Options and selection of PVC panels

All types of plastic panels are produced on the basis of polyvinyl chloride. In this case, the products are divided into 2 types. The first option is panels that are completely made of high quality PVC or vinyl. The structure of such elements is homogeneous, which ensures the strength and reliability of products. Such PVC panels are in demand on the market and are often used for cladding the facade of buildings.

PVC panels can imitate any facade material

The second type of PVC products is combined and consists of two layers. The outer shell protects the panels from fading and weathering, while the inner layer provides rigidity and strength to the elements. Such panels are more expensive and are rarely used for facade decoration.

Panels are elements with holes for fastening

Depending on the appearance, PVC products are divided into the following types according to the type of imitated surface:

• a rock;
• brick;
• tree, timber;
• marble.

External differences do not affect the characteristics of the products and are taken into account only when developing the design of the facade. When choosing a material, you should pay attention to its thickness, which can be 15, 17, 18, 21 mm. A certain option is selected depending on the climatic conditions of the region. It is also important to take into account the principle of laying, according to which the elements will be attached. Panels can be mounted horizontally or vertically. In the first case, small panels are selected, and for vertical installation, products with large parameters are needed, the entire height of the wall.

What you need to cover the walls of the house outside

Wall decoration with PVC panels is most often carried out using the horizontal method. A wooden crate is preliminarily constructed, which should be treated with an antiseptic compound to prevent decay. Installation also involves the presence of a perforator, hammer, tape measure, building level. Ordinary chalk will be needed for marking, and nails or long self-tapping screws will ensure reliable fastening of parts.

For the crate, wooden bars or an aluminum profile are required.

The starting rail is a necessary element and is mounted around the entire perimeter of the wall. Before finishing, insulation can be laid, but it is possible to mount panels without a heat-insulating layer. In the first case, you need to choose a variant of the material for insulation, and you will also need a vapor barrier film.

Calculation of the amount of material

Preparatory work involves the calculation of all parameters, which will facilitate the installation of PVC panels. Determining the number of elements is one of the important steps. To do this, you need to carry out the following calculations:

1. Find the total area of ​​the surfaces to be coated.
2. Subtract the area of ​​all windows and doors from the total area.
3. To the result, add 10% for cuts and overlaps.
4. The final result is divided by 4.55 (the number of "stone" or "brick" panels in one package).

Fasteners, J-profile, starting bar, outer corners are purchased with a small margin, which is necessary for cutting and overlapping. For an approximate determination of the number of fasteners, it should be taken into account that at least 5 screws must be used on one panel, and to fix the starting bar, you need to install fasteners every 30 cm.

Mounting preparation

Before fixing PVC panels, a set of preparatory work is carried out, which involves cleaning the walls of dirt, eliminating sharp nails and protruding irregularities.

Waterproofing without insulation is attached under the crate

Plastic panels do not require special preparation for installation. The starting bar should be cut along the length of the wall, and corner elements, platbands are also processed.

Sheathing the walls of the house with PVC panels

1. Before fixing the panels, you need to install the starting bar at a distance of 10 cm from the corners of the building.
2. The evenness of the fixation of this element is checked by the building level.
3. The first corner element is mounted on the left side of the wall, and the lower edge of the part must be flush with the starting bar.

The mounting line of the starting bar should go at the same level around the entire perimeter of the building

1. The first panel is installed in the starting bar and the groove of the outer corner. In this case, a gap of 2-3 mm is observed. All L-shaped locks close on the inside of the bar.

   The first panel should be installed as evenly and horizontally as possible.

2. At a right angle, cut the edge of the panel, which is included in the groove of the corner element. Thus, the first and last panel in a row are processed. For convenience, you can assemble all the panels without using fasteners, and mark the cut line.

   PVC panels are assembled as a constructor, but carefully fixed with dowels or self-tapping screws

3. All panels are assembled using the constructor method, selecting parts for a strong connection. The last element must be cut in a straight line and fastened to the corner. Self-tapping screws are screwed in the center of the perforation, but the cap should not fit very tightly to the panel.

   Cut the panels with a sharp tool

Video: installation of Döcker plastic panels

Installation of panels without crates

Plastic panels are best mounted on the crate, but there may be no such basis. In this case, the surface of the walls should be perfectly flat, and you can check this with a plumb line. If a difference between the upper and lower parts of the wall is more than 3 cm, it is impossible to carry out installation without a crate. Sharp protrusions, nails, concrete influxes must be eliminated, and then the evenness of the walls is checked.

The building should have as smooth walls as possible.

Smooth walls are to be finished with plastic panels after preliminary fixing of the waterproofing film. Insulation in the absence of crates can be used from inside the building. The complex of works on the installation of panels without lathing involves the installation of a basement ebb, a starting bar and corner parts. Further cladding is carried out according to the technology with a crate.

Video: wall cladding with PVC panels without crates

Plastic facade panels are distinguished by simple installation technology and lightness, which eliminates harm to the load-bearing elements of the building. To ensure maximum reliability of the cladding, you can take into account the simple recommendations for finishing, which are as follows:

• when joining a panel with a J-profile, it is necessary to take into account a small temperature gap, which is necessary to prevent deformation of the coating;
• installation is best carried out at an air temperature of at least 10 ° C;
• the distance from the blind area to the lower edge of the cladding must be at least 5 cm;
• shutters, a visor and other additional details are attached to the crate after the panels are installed.

Facing the facade of the house with plastic panels allows you to make an inexpensive and beautiful finish. At the same time, it is worth considering that only high-quality panels are needed for work, because the durability of the facade depends on this.

Facade panels are distinguished by all the seasonality of installation work: installation can be done in any weather, even at low temperatures. This feature is due to the fact that the installation is carried out using frame technology, mechanical fasteners. Let's consider the stages of work in more detail.

Lathing installation

Depending on the chosen cladding material, the crate is equipped:

1. Wooden frame for light panels (plastic, steel sheets).
2. For heavier façade slabs (for example, fiber cement), a frame is constructed from galvanized profiles or a profile pipe.

The frame is installed in the following sequence:

• Vertical guides are installed. The step between them must be maintained at 50–60 cm.
• Then horizontal strips are installed in the places of attachment of additional elements: external corners, J-profile and other details.

Advice! Between the slats of the frame, you can lay heat-insulating material for additional insulation of the facade of the house. It is best to use sheet materials based on expanded polystyrene or basalt wool slabs.

Installing the starting bar

After the frame is mounted, proceed to install the starting profile. Its installation facilitates the installation of the first row of panels and allows you to accurately maintain the horizontal. When installing the initial bar, you need to carefully check its evenness using the building level. Also, about 10 cm must be retreated from the corners of the house for the installation of external corner elements.

Panel mounting

An important rule for installing any facade panels is that installation is carried out from left to right. There are various ways to install finishing plates, which differ from the material of manufacture.

Consider the main options:

• PVC structures are attached using a construction stapler or small self-tapping screws and nails (on a wooden frame).
• Steel panels are attracted to the crate with metal screws.
• For the installation of most heavy structures, metal clamps are used. They are fastened to the frame with self-tapping screws.

Having finished the installation of facade panels, the installation of additional cladding elements is carried out:

• outer corners;
• installation of a J-profile for edging door and window openings;
• installation of a finishing strip to prevent rainwater from entering behind the skin.

All these additional elements give the cladding completeness and serve to create an aesthetic appearance.

Advice! For the installation of thermal panels in the installation of the frame, as a rule, there is no need. Such panels, due to the thick layer of elastic insulation, perfectly hide minor irregularities in the facade. Fastening is carried out using long self-tapping screws with plastic dowels directly to the outer walls of the house.

Installing panels is an excellent choice for cladding the facade of a house. In addition to the remarkable appearance, such plates allow you to insulate the house and reliably protect the walls from moisture. This facing material is very popular due to the ease and speed of the installation process, a huge range of textures and a variety of shades.

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Facade panels Unipan Chania

Facade panels Unipan (Chanyi) - products of Chinese manufacturers. The original name of the material - Chania - could not be registered, since there is a Greek city of the same name and confusion is possible.

In this situation, it was decided to rename the material. This is how the Unipan trademark appeared.

The material is a sandwich panel consisting of three main layers:

• Galvanized metal sheet.
• Polyurethane foam filler.
• Thermal waterproofing layer.

The production technology provides for the process of "hot melting" of the components - injection of liquid polyurethane foam between two outer layers. After hardening, a solidly interconnected block is obtained, which has a successful set of performance qualities and allows you to easily and quickly mount the sheathing fabric.

The metal front layer has a relief corresponding to the texture of the imitated material - masonry or brickwork, etc. There are also smooth panels with photo printing.

The peculiarity of such panels is the connection method, which is absolutely similar to the principles of joining internal wall panels: one longitudinal edge is a ridge, and the opposite one is a groove. To connect, you just need to insert the crest of one panel into the groove of the other, which is accessible even to an absolutely unprepared person.

Ease of installation eliminates the possibility of errors, and the density of the connection creates an airtight canvas that is resistant to external moisture, rain or melt drops, wind.

The surface has a relief that repeats the texture of stone or brickwork, wood paneling, etc. In addition, there are several color options to expand the choice and implementation of different design ideas.

Metal siding installation

Everything starts identically: materials are prepared, the future design is sketched out, installation is carried out. The profiles are installed in accordance with the drawn diagram at right angles to the base of the house in increments of 50 cm. The supporting profiles must be fixed with dowels.

Metal siding: mounting on an aluminum frame

Remove interfering elements from the facade of the building

After installing the vertical profiles, it is necessary to install transverse bulkheads. Here you will need to make paws on each side of the panel for attaching to the profile. There are ready-made frames right away, but such structures have a clear drawback - they must be attached directly to the walls of the house. If the wall is made of foam concrete, then such a frame may collapse. Also, the frame is not recommended to be installed on a silicate brick. Red brick walls are also not suitable for a finished frame. In addition, such designs are more expensive than self-installed.

Installation of vertical racks in a horizontal profile

Alignment of the metal frame vertically and horizontally

We put additional vertical racks under the siding (based on the recommended dimensions of 40-60 cm)

The most common fastening of metal profiles with each other

siding frame

After the bulkheads have been installed, various kinds of insulation can be inserted into the resulting rectangles.

Laying insulation boards

Mineral wool can be fixed with direct hangers

The insulation layer is covered with a wind and vapor barrier sheet.

Once the insulation is installed, the panels can be fixed to the frame. Each panel has holes for screws. This allows you to hide the seams and not disturb the aesthetic appearance of the facade.

Additional elements

Metal Siding Kit

Schematically, the setup looks like this.

Stage 1. Drawing up a diagram of the house and the future frame for the panels.

Mounting diagram

Stage 2. Cleaning the building of unnecessary decorative elements.

Stage 3. Production of an external frame on the walls of a building or installation of a finished one.

Stage 4. Installing the tide, starting bar and the very first row of panels. A level is used to determine the correct angle.

Low tide installation

We fix the ebb with self-tapping screws in increments of no more than 40 cm

We install planks with an overlap

Installation of external corners

We fix the inner corner

Installation of the start profile

We screw the screws in the center of the holes, check the tightness of fastening by slightly moving the bar to the right and left

Installation of platbands on windows

Fastening of the near-window profile

Stage 5. The following rows are installed, followed by fastening to the frame.

We snap the first panel into the starting bar and fasten it with self-tapping screws to the crate

We insert the next panel into the locking part of the previous one and repeat the installation

Installation of metal siding

Stage 6. Installation of the final plank, spotlights and decorative elements.

Installation of the finishing profile

In the last panel, we make holes with a punch, snap the panel into the finishing profile

Soffit installation

In the future, similar installation elements are stored for each type of panel. This is also a plus of the panels - their installation is similar, which means that you can easily learn how to install the facade.

Metal siding is a good option for summer cottages and one-story houses. Such panels perfectly repeat the effect of wood. In addition, the products are perfectly processed without unnecessary tools. Easy care - just wash the contaminated part of the house with water.

metal siding

Download file. Manufacture of works on the installation of metal siding

Instruction

What are facade panels

Do not confuse facade panels and siding, although their purpose is the same - facing the exterior walls of the house. Facade slabs appeared relatively recently and are actively replacing other methods of protecting buildings from atmospheric and other influences. They are thicker and more durable than siding. Materials for the production of such a shelter for the outer walls have also significantly expanded the range. Today, facade slabs are used both for full coverage of the house and for basement cladding. Their demand is easy to explain: such a design of the facade replaces many natural materials, but is much cheaper.

The house, finished with facade slabs, is protected and beautiful

Types of facade panels

There are numerous types of facade slabs on the market:

• Polyvinyl chloride

An inexpensive cladding option that can be mounted on a lightweight frame or directly on the wall, taking into account the ideal surface. A variety of shapes and colors can please any owner. The disadvantage is the lack of vapor permeability and fragility. Frost resistance is not too high, so it is not worth using such a cladding in the Far North. Many types of vinyl boards are flammable, and most emit harmful fumes when burned.

• Fiber cement

They are made of concrete and wood fibers with the use of synthetic additives, which are a binding component. Durable, environmentally friendly, vapor-permeable, non-flammable fiber-cement facade cladding has won the market in many countries. Imitation of natural materials not only in external coincidence, but also in terms of quality characteristics. The material "under the tree" has the warmth of natural wood, but does not burn or rot.

• Wood fiber boards

They are used mainly for light country houses and summer cottages, as they have significant drawbacks: combustibility, susceptibility to decay. But these are one of the most frost-resistant materials - up to 100 cycles, they do not crack and are environmentally friendly.

• Made of metal with PVC lining

They are made of galvanized steel or vinyl-coated aluminum. Easy to use and install, especially cassette types. Durable, not subject to decay, well protect the house from noise, dust and moisture. The disadvantage is that the material does not breathe, the outer coating is prone to burning, a considerable cost.

• From porcelain stoneware

This facade material is highly durable, resistant to all types of fungi and damage. Porcelain stoneware slabs look expensive and stylish. Such facades give the impression of prosperity and protect the house from any outside influences. Lack of panel weight. It is quite difficult to carry out cladding alone.

• Glass panels

We used to associate glass facades with large shopping centers or office buildings, but glass is increasingly in demand among those who want to give the walls of their mansion a stylish, and sometimes fantastic look. Impact-resistant, often bullet-proof glass of class A and B is used. Reinforced glass, triplex, glass from foamed glass granulate are used. The advantages of such walls are in their beauty and unusualness. The disadvantage is that it is difficult to install and expensive.

• Thermal panels

The design of the thermal panel is a thick layer of polyurethane foam or polystyrene, covered with ceramic tiles to protect the material from external influences. Such protective facades have a lot of advantages: high heat and noise insulation, durability, frost resistance, impact resistance. The simplicity of the tenon-groove fasteners makes it easy to mount such a cladding.

• Sandwich panels

They are two layers of metal, between which a plastic layer and a vapor barrier are pressed. This is an excellent sound insulator. Withstands any temperature fluctuations. Such plates can have a different surface. Not subject to corrosion and fungus. Operating temperatures from -180 to +100 degrees.

Variety of exterior wall cladding

Finishing the building with facade slabs has more pluses than minuses, and therefore we will immediately say about the disadvantage. The fastening of the facade panel is always carried out on a special frame, and therefore the manufacture of such facades requires knowledge and certain experience. In addition, the cost of many materials is quite high. The advantages of wall cladding with these finishing materials are obvious:

• Protection of the house from exposure to high and low temperatures;
• Long service life of 20 years or more. Most materials have a service life of 50 years or more;
• Protects walls from fungus and decay;
• Resistant to sudden changes in temperature;
• Most of the plates are made of non-combustible and environmentally friendly material;
• Resistant to corrosion damage.

Front panels. The main advantages of the material

Facade panels are made in the form of small slabs, which, according to the type of structural pattern, can imitate natural wood, stone, brick, etc. This finish looks simply luxurious and, with proper installation, can last for several decades. If we talk about the main advantages of facing this type, then it is worth highlighting the following:

• Ease of installation. Panel slabs are assembled into one continuous structure using the most common set of tools. The material has a low weight and locks provided on the end sides, so that the installation of facade panels can be carried out with the involvement of a minimum number of craftsmen.
• Environmental friendliness. The panels do not contain components harmful to human health, which makes it possible to use them for external cladding of buildings and structures of any type.
• Long operating periods. Facade panels are resistant to temperature extremes and seasonal precipitation. In addition, this material has a high degree of strength and does not fade under the influence of direct sunlight. Thanks to these features, facade panels serve for a long time and do not lose their original appearance and protective properties throughout the entire service life.
• Acceptable price. Regardless of the modification and type of structural pattern, modern facade panels have a very reasonable cost. The use of such material allows in a short time and with minimal financial costs to improve the appearance of the facade of any building.

Basic rules for the installation of facade panels

Like any other facing material, facade panels have their own rules for installation. If you want the decoration of the building to last for many years and at the same time not lose its original appearance, when starting to install panels, consider the following:

• Before starting work on the installation of panels, you must carefully read the manufacturer's instructions.
• In order to exclude the possibility of deformation of the plates under the influence of temperature changes, self-tapping screws should be screwed into the perforations without excessive effort. Ideally, for the possibility of thermal expansion, the distance between the surface of the plate and the head of the screw should be 1 millimeter.
• It is possible to fasten the plates of the facing material only with the use of stainless steel self-tapping screws.
• If, in accordance with the instructions, the panels must be mounted on a wooden crate, then its surface must first be opened with a protective solution that prevents the formation of mold and fungus.
• To create a high-quality and reliable crate, it is better to use a galvanized steel profile.
• Depending on the type of facade panels, their installation is carried out from left to right or from bottom to top. With horizontal installation, a vertical crate is prepared and, conversely, with a vertical installation of plates, a horizontal frame is created.
• In the process of installing facade panels, you will have to cut the slabs. To exclude the possibility of damage to the protective coating on the front of the material, we do not recommend that you use a grinder or other tool that operates at high speeds.

If you are not entirely sure that you can install facade panels on your own, then it’s better not to risk it and contact us right away. Specialists of the MSK-Krovlya company will perform all stages of building cladding in strict accordance with the technology, thanks to which the facade panels will last for many years without losing their neat appearance and integrity.

The choice of lathing for panels and its installation

The crate for panels is a supporting structure. Its configuration is usually complicated by the presence of insulation, which must be installed between the slats. Therefore, for work, a material is selected that is most convenient to use and sufficiently strong and durable.

The traditional type of crate is a system of wooden planks.. This option is acceptable, but requires the presence of straight, dried planks, which should be impregnated with an antiseptic immediately after installation to prevent rot, mold, etc.

A more successful option is the construction of a metal crate. Metal guides for drywall sheets are used. They are straight, the galvanized surface prevents corrosion processes, installation and adjustment of the plane is much easier than when working with wooden bars.

In some cases, metal and wooden planks are combined, which is sometimes convenient for complex surface configurations.

Mounting order:

1. Cleaning the wall outside the house, complete surface preparation- putty, (if necessary), primer, surface drying.
2. Wall marking for load-bearing elements- brackets or straight rails.
3. The crate for deck panels has both horizontally and vertically directed slats. Therefore, if it is necessary to install a heater under it, it is necessary to build your own crate. It is needed for mounting on top of it the supporting strips for panels.
4. Insulation is installed between the slats of the primary crate. A layer of waterproof membrane is laid on top of the insulation.
5. A carrier is installed on the slats of the primary crate. Its thickness must be at least 3 cm to provide the desired ventilation gap. Vertical strips are used for mounting corners, sides of panels. The horizontal ones serve as a support surface for the starting and J-slats, the upper sides of the panels, and other elements of the canvas.
6. The step of the horizontal bars corresponds to the height of the panel, the step of the vertical bars is half of its length.

The main task during the installation of the lathing is to ensure that the dimensions of the panels and the distances between the planks correspond, and also to ensure the presence of a flat plane that allows obtaining the correct geometry of the sheathing web.

Decorative panels for clinker tiles

A relatively new material that gives an aesthetic appearance to the facade and insulates the house at the same time. Such panels have two components - a base made of insulation and an outer coating. The coating can be stylized for any material - brick, stone, etc.

Such panels are fastened very quickly, due to a simple method. For fastening, you will need a spatula, construction glue, a prepared frame. The latter is not necessary, since such panels can be mounted immediately on the wall. The frame serves to install an additional layer of insulation.

Mounting diagram

The panels are fastened as follows - a solution of building glue is applied to the notched trowel. Regarding mortar, each tile manufacturer specifies the proportion formula required for installation. Glue is applied to the product, which is applied to the outer wall or frame. After, the panel comes off after three minutes, and is again attached to the surface. This method is necessary in order to increase the adhesion strength.

Elements are fixed with glue

The evenness of the installation is checked by a level

Between the joints, the panels can be glued with construction adhesive, and for additional strength, the panels are fixed with screws. The only drawback of such panels is their high cost. In return, you get not only a beautiful facade, but also a warm home.

Installation of thermal panels

Fixing elements

Seam filling

Most likely, this is the best option not only to improve the appearance of the facade of the building, but also to insulate. Such panels look the most attractive, because they take the form of various materials and products from them. The house can turn into a stone fortress.

In addition, in case of damage to one of the parts of the facade, there is no need to disassemble the entire structure. It is enough to choose the right size panel, remove the damaged one and install a new one.

The main recommendation is to install in the warm season, since the glue may not harden properly at low temperatures, and the whole structure will not firmly adhere to the wall. Each manufacturer indicates on the packaging at what air temperatures it is most correct to mount the panel.

Video - Installation, insulation with thermal panels

Video - Installation of facade thermal panels (PPU) with clinker tiles

Panels with decorative tiles

Facade thermal panels

Such panels are a novelty in the field of finishing materials. They consist of a base (mainly compressed foam) and an external decorative coating. The panels perform two functions at the same time:

• home insulation;
• imitation of natural stone.

There are no significant disadvantages of the disadvantage, except perhaps the high cost.

Expanded polystyrene facade panel

Corner thermal panels

Mounting technology

Finishing the facade with such decorative panels is the easiest and fastest siding option. This was made possible thanks to special grooves that allow you to securely fix the docked panels. No seams are visible.

Thermal panels

The panels are mounted on construction adhesive applied with a notched trowel. The proportions in which the adhesive solution is prepared are indicated by the manufacturers on the packaging.

Panel mounting

Gluing occurs as follows: the panel is applied to the wall, after three minutes it is torn off, and after another two it is glued again. This allows you to increase the stability and adhesion of materials.

Installation of thermal panels

Installation of thermal panels

Installation of thermal panels

Installation of thermal panels

Important! If the panel does not adhere during re-application, then the adhesive mixture is not suitable or was not applied in sufficient quantity. .

Installation is carried out in rows, you should move from the bottom up. So the bottom row will support the top one. After laying one row, they take a half-hour break so that the glue dries (it will take a day to dry completely), the optimum ambient temperature is 20-25 ° C.

Wood siding

Wood siding

Such panels can only be used for finishing one-story buildings due to their impressive weight. Despite the special impregnations with which the products are processed, the first care will be required after a few seasons after installation. With proper handling, such siding will last for decades.

Mounting technology

As in the case of metal siding, two options are possible here:

• install the panels yourself;
• buy a finished design.

Self-plating happens as follows.

Stage 1. First, a frame is assembled from a wooden beam. The first rack is attached perpendicular to the ground, all subsequent ones are installed in the same way in half a meter increments. After that, the transverse racks are installed. Instead of wood, the frame can be built from a metal profile.

Lathing installation

Stage 2. The frame (if it is wooden) is treated with stain and antiseptics to protect it from insects, precipitation, wind, etc.

Important! Vertical racks cannot be placed directly on the ground - special linings must be made, otherwise the tree will absorb moisture from the soil and will soon rot. . Stage 3

The space between the posts is filled with mineral wool.

Stage 3. The space between the posts is filled with mineral wool.

Warming with mineral wool

Stage 4. The panels are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The finished design vaguely reminiscent of a suspended ceiling. The installation procedure in this case is quite simple.

Stage 1. Extreme guides are attached.

Stage 2. Then, with a step equal to the length of the boards, the internal ones are installed.

Stage 3. The siding is inserted between the rails. The first strip, the second, the third, etc. are installed.

Stage 4. After that, the top row is leveled and covered with a wooden frame for fixation.

Wood siding installation

This installation option has significant drawbacks, including the almost complete lack of thermal and sound insulation.

Important! There is another kind of wooden panels - long-band siding. It consists of sheets six meters long, which are fastened with dowels or liquid nails not to the frame, but immediately to the wall. A minimum of two people are required for installation.

We mount the first facade panel with our own hands

We fix the front panel

Often the walls of the building are uneven, so you first need to fix the starting bar at the lowest point of the building. Leave a gap of 10 centimeters at each edge of the wall to install the outer corner. To screw in the screws, holes are made in the frame in increments of about 40 centimeters. Keep a close eye on the horizontality of the first bar, the correct fastening of all subsequent panels depends on it.

If necessary, the bottom row panels can be cut with a circular saw. To do this, you can use a circular saw, using a panel with thin teeth, setting it in the opposite direction. When cutting the panel to the desired height, adjust the direction of the saw to keep chipping to a minimum.

If trimming of the lower panels is required, the starting profile is not used. In this case, the panels are simply fixed through the front surface in inconspicuous places, driving at least 5 nails into one panel. Before driving nails through the front surface, pre-drill holes for fasteners.

The second row of panels is installed and moved on top of the previous one, taking into account a small gap for the expansion of the material. The same method is used to install all subsequent rows. Try to constantly check the level of the corners - they should always be level with the panels.

When you reach the top of the facade, you may need to cut the last row of height as well. Try to cut the material carefully so as not to damage the protective layer. Otherwise, the characteristics of the panels and their appearance will deteriorate. To finish the inner corners, you can use the J-profile. Align the panels with vinyl or aluminum tape before mounting the corner.

Conclusion

The protected facade of the house lasts several times longer, and the beautiful one also pleases the eye. Facade panels perfectly cope with these tasks, being an aesthetic, practical and inexpensive finishing material. Separately, it is worth noting the ease of installation work.

A high-quality frame and competent fixation of the starting profile is the main part of the matter. When installing the panels themselves, only care and accuracy are important. Also, one should not forget about the thermal expansion of the material, to compensate for which it is necessary to observe the expansion joints between the sections and the gaps between the caps of the fixing elements and the surface of the finish.

Do-it-yourself installation of heavy facade panels in stages

Installation of heavy facade elements is carried out in a different way. It is impossible to simply fix a fiberboard or porcelain stoneware to the starting profile without additional fasteners. Therefore, the course of work is as follows.

• First of all, we design the crate. It is necessary to calculate the number and types of profile strips, brackets and fasteners.

Important! Do not use a galvanized profile for plasterboard! The facade is too heavy for this metal. You need to purchase a special reinforced profile

Wall surface prepared for fixing the facing material

We install the brackets on which the vertical profile will then be attached. The size of the working part of the bracket is calculated from the thickness of the insulation. After laying the thermal insulation, we install vertical profiles. Mount the main and intermediate profile. The main one should be located at the junction of the plates, and the intermediate one in the middle. The step calculation is carried out based on the architectural features of the building project and the wind load: the size between the profiles is usually 40-60 cm. The horizontal planks have a step corresponding to the dimensions of the panel.

• The next step is to install the lower ebb at a distance of 40 cm from the ground and fasten the starting profile or clamps. Clamps or metal clips are designed not only for fastening, but also for the device of an expansion joint.
• Next, we begin the fastening of the first row. The thicker the facing material, the more responsibly it is necessary to approach the work. Fastening of a facade element made of porcelain stoneware and other weighty structures with a thickness of more than 15 mm is carried out on clamps or on internal fasteners. The plates are connected in accordance with the instructions and the drawing. Fastening to the clamps

• After installation, all joints are sealed with sealant and carefully cleaned. To avoid damage to the surface, the joints are glued with masking tape, which is subsequently removed.
• The design of the upper row should be made with the formation of a ventilation gap, which is typical for all ventilated facades. For this, a U-shaped profile and a low tide are installed. The same is done below. This will ensure proper air circulation. Top and bottom connection

• The formation of external corners is usually already provided by the manufacturer. This can be done without a butt-to-butt cut or with a cut. A metal corner can be superimposed on the corner, which will need to be painted. In any case, the kit offers sealant and paint to match the color of the main cladding.

Important! During installation, do not forget to leave 3 mm between the plates for thermal expansion! The ends are protected with a special sealant, which should be included.

Corner mounting

If you pay attention to the installation methods, then there are no fundamental differences. There are certain nuances that should be considered when installing the panels yourself:. The bottom layer is the most important

An evenly laid or installed panel is the key to correct and successful work. In the case of improper installation, there is a high probability of replacing the entire structure. Installing the first siding panel and correctly engaging the profile lock
The frame is an important part. In addition to clinker panels, other products need a frame. It will minimize the load on the walls of the house and distribute it correctly. In addition, various heaters can be installed in the space between the wall and the tile thanks to the frame. Wooden frame for siding The easiest way to insulate
The seams of the panels are perfectly hidden behind each other when properly installed. Building (joining) siding panels along the length
The minimum number of tools - you need a construction (preferably) knife to cut off excess parts of the panels, a screwdriver, a level, a ruler. In addition, the installation of panels does not take much time. If you feel the difficulty to install the panel yourself, without a specialist, hiring one person is enough. In the future, observing the work, you can easily repeat all the work done for other buildings. A large field for design solutions. Most of the products are stylized as stone, wood and decorative bricks. The house will look rich and elegant. Finishing the facade of the house

1. The bottom layer is the most important. An evenly laid or installed panel is the key to correct and successful work. In the case of incorrect installation, there is a high probability of replacing the entire structure. Installing the first siding panel and correctly engaging the profile lock
2. The frame is an important part. In addition to clinker panels, other products need a frame. It will minimize the load on the walls of the house and distribute it correctly. In addition, thanks to the frame, various heaters can be installed in the space between the wall and the tile. Wooden frame for siding

   The easiest way to insulate

3. The seams of the panels are perfectly hidden behind each other when properly installed. Building (joining) siding panels along the length
4. The minimum number of tools - you need a construction (preferably) knife to cut off excess parts of the panels, a screwdriver, a level, a ruler. In addition, the installation of panels does not take much time.
5. If you feel the difficulty to install the panel yourself, without a specialist, hiring one person is enough. In the future, observing the work, you can easily repeat all the work done for other buildings.
6. A large field for design solutions. Most of the products are stylized as stone, wood and decorative bricks. The house will look rich and elegant. Finishing the facade of the house

This is what a person needs to know if he decides to do the installation of panels on his own. The process does not differ in technical complexity

It is necessary to act carefully and carefully to achieve the desired result.

wood siding

Perhaps one of the most expensive types of panels, but the most beautiful. The panels are made from pressed sawdust, treated with special solutions for strength and durability. However, if you do not take care of such a facade regularly (every two seasons), then it quickly becomes unusable. In addition, this method of finishing is only suitable for one-story houses, since the panels are heavy, the frame may not withstand.

wood siding

As in the case of metal siding, wooden panels are mounted on a prepared frame. Installation methods are identical:

• the frame is made of wooden blocks. But it is possible to install from a metal profile to facilitate construction. The first rack is installed at a right angle to the base of the building, and the rest after half a meter are parallel. Racks are installed between them across; Diagram of a wooden crate for siding
• a wooden frame must be treated with insect and moisture repellents;
• the resulting space between the racks can be filled with insulation. Mineral wool is recommended for insulation, since it will not only keep the heat in the house, but also allow the condensate to be removed; Sheathing the wall with a block house

  Facade cladding technology with wood siding

• the panels are fixed to the frame using clamps or screws.

wood siding for home decoration

The above panels can be replaced with longer ones. The advantage of such panels is that they are fixed immediately to the wall one after another in a row. The length of such products is 6 meters. This is a faster way to install. But in order to complete the work on the facade, you need at least two people. One person will not be able to do this job, as the panels may not be installed correctly.

In order to cut off the unnecessary part of the panel, it is recommended to use a grinder. She will most quickly cope with such a product and evenly cut off part of the panel.

The complexity of such products lies in their mass. For installation, it is best to call an assistant. So, the process will be optimally fast and correct.

After installation, the wooden facade is covered with a protective layer of paint.

transcript

1 INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR HANYI FACADE PANELS Necessary tools: 1. Screwdriver 2. Tape measure 3. Level 4. Metal shears 5. Square 6. Perforator (punching holes for fasteners) 7. Electric jigsaw with a saw for metal Surface preparation. Installation of the CHANIA panels is allowed under any weather conditions. The surface of the wall does not need special preparation. To level the plane, if necessary, you can use a galvanized metal profile 60 x 27 and direct hangers (they are used when installing drywall). The profile is installed at intervals of cm (vertically or horizontally, depending on the method of fastening the panels)

2 Installation. A starter bar is used to fasten the first panel. The installation location of the starting bar is determined at the lowest point of the foundation. In this case, the starting bar must be strictly horizontal (with horizontal fastening of the panels). The first panel is installed on the starting bar, covering the starting bar, and fastened to the profile with self-tapping screws. Each next panel during installation closes the fasteners of the previous panel.

3 Corner elements (external and internal) apply the design of the corner joints of the panels. Between themselves, they are connected by a thorn-groove locking element. In addition, corners can be used at the junction of the filing of the vertical wall of the gable and the lower part of the protruding roof, window, door openings, etc. When connecting panels at corners and joints, it is recommended to leave a temperature gap of 3-5 mm between them.

4 The connecting strip closes the connection of the panels at the end. It is fastened as follows: between the end edges of the panels, a U-shaped aluminum guide is fastened with self-tapping screws, which is the counterpart of the lock of the connecting element, and then the connecting element itself is inserted into it with little effort. Between themselves along the length of the elements are connected by a thorn-groove lock. To close the cut and fasten the last panel, a finishing strip is used.

5 Calculation of the material area. When calculating the material, 5% must be added to the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls for cuts; if the structure of a complex architectural configuration is 10%. To find out the number of starting strips, you need to subtract the sum of the widths of the doors from the perimeter of the building. In order to find out the number of external and internal corners, you need to measure the length of the external and internal corners of the building and divide by 0.38 m (this is the length of the corner element) and increase to an integer. This way you will get the required number of elements. Calculation of the need for a docking profile. Find the sum of the heights at the joints of the panels and also divide by 0.38 (this is the length of the docking element) and increase the resulting number to an integer. Cutting. To cut the panels, you can use a hacksaw with fine teeth or an electric jigsaw. Since the metal is covered with an aluminum-zinc protective layer, it is broken when sawing or drilling panels. We recommend that you treat the places damaged during sawing or drilling with protective equipment: enamel after Storage. CHANIA panels do not need special storage conditions. Mounting material. It is recommended to use 9.5 mm galvanized self-tapping screws to fasten the panels to the crate. For mounting 100 sq.m. panels will need about 1000 pieces. Maintenance of panels "CHANIA". Panels "HANYI" - the material is durable. Once installed, it requires no further investment. All you have to do to preserve the beauty of your home is to wash it once a year using a regular garden hose. If the material is heavily soiled, a simple non-abrasive detergent can be used. If you follow all the recommendations for installation and maintenance, the CHANIA panels will delight you for many years.

Features of mounting panels

Deck polypropylene facade panels have technical characteristics close to most plastic sheathing samples - vinyl, acrylic, etc.

Accordingly, the conditions of installation work, in particular - the obligatory observance of thermal gaps - are equally relevant for deck panels.

The fact is that a solid sheathing fabric, being tightly recruited without gaps, will begin to expand when heated and go in waves. In some cases, destruction of nail strips is possible - strips along the edge of the panel with oblong holes for fixing to the base with nails or, more often, self-tapping screws.

In order to avoid damage or damage to the appearance of the skin, temperature gaps must be observed without fail - gaps between all contacting elements of the skin. In particular, this condition is relevant for elements that need longitudinal joining (for example, a starting bar, J-bar, etc.).

For the same reasons, nails and self-tapping screws must not be hammered / screwed all the way. About 1 mm is left between the cap and the part, so that it can move when changing sizes. The holes in the nail strips are oblong in shape.

Self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle so that there is the possibility of a slight movement in one direction or another. The only case when this rule is violated is the installation of vertical elements (for example, corner strips). For them, the self-tapping screw in the upper hole is installed at the top point so that the part does not fall down. The rest of the screws are arranged according to the general scheme.

NOTE!
The size of the expansion gap depends on the installation temperature. For a hot summer day, 2-3 mm is enough, for a cold winter day - at least 6 mm.

Types of facade panels and the specifics of their installation

• Fiberboards and Japanese fiberboards

They consist of cement, reinforcing fibers and mineral fillers. They are distinguished by a high level of resistance to external influences and good flexibility.

Such panels are attached to an already attached frame (if we are talking about 14 mm panels), to a wall or a supporting frame of a building (panels of 16 mm and more). Thin panels are mounted on galvanized screws, thicker ones are fixed with clamps.

Fiber panels are installed on the frame, which, in turn, is fixed to the wall on brackets through paronite (it will help minimize the load on the frame structure at the time of settlement). A heater is placed between the cells of the frame, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.

Additional workflow levels: a basement ebb is fixed to the frame (above the blind area by 5-10 cm);

Kleimers for installation of plates are placed on all vertical guides.

A seam bar is made to properly position the plates relative to each other.

On the clamps located below, fiber plates are put on and fixed with fasteners. All joints are treated with sealant and painted with paint in the color of the panels.

• Installation of plastic panels.

To install them, it is also necessary to remove the previous decoration of the house, remove irregularities. Then the walls must be marked with lines clearly vertically and horizontally at a distance of 50-70 cm. The crate can be wooden or metal, it is reinforced in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindows and doors. The cells of the lattice are also filled with insulation and vapor barrier film.

The specificity of the work lies in the fact that plastic panels are mounted from the corner of the building and from the bottom row, by connecting the locks and attaching them to the crate with self-tapping screws.

• Installation of metal panels. Facade (siding)

Differ in the increased level of durability and a polymeric sheeting. Siding requires a metal crate, which is attached to the walls with perforated hangers.

Insulation is laid in the cells, but it is necessary to provide for such an aspect as the possibility of facade ventilation, otherwise the condensate formed under the metal will begin to destroy the wooden surface.

Siding is mounted from the bottom corner.

• Installation of facade panels: thermal panels.

Installation starts from the left corner in the starting profile, the clamps are fixed on the spikes, to which the next thermal panel is attached.

• Sandwich panels. Mounting. Facade of a frame house

This name is not accidental, since the panel contains 3 layers, one of which is a heater.

Such panels are not easy to install alone: ​​first, a U-profile is attached, where the 1st panel is inserted, and a frame from the corner of the building. Everything is set according to the level, the plate is attached directly to the frame.

For longitudinal seams, you will need a sealant, for transverse seams - mineral wool and polyurethane foam. Subsequent panels are fastened from above with locks.

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PVC siding

Plastic front panels Nailite (Naylayt)

PVC panels are a cheap and easy-to-install way to finish the facade, characterized by a wide range of models and, therefore, a lot of possible design solutions. The only drawback is the appearance. From a close distance, even with the naked eye, it is noticeable that the house is sheathed in plastic.

Vinyl siding

Mounting technology

PVC panels are installed only horizontally. For work you will need:

• perforator;
• a hammer;
• roulette;
• Bulgarian;
• level;
• punch - a tool for making ears on the edges of sheets of material.

Stage 1. First, a visual inspection of the house is carried out, a place for mounting the first row is determined. This row should match the old finish or cover the top of the foundation (if we are talking about a new building).

Stage 2. All the necessary components are installed - internal and external corners, platbands, the first strip, etc. You should start from the corners, while there should be a small gap between them and the eaves of the building - 6.5 mm.

Stage 3. Installing the first row is the most important stage in finishing the facade, on which the evenness of the entire siding depends. First, the boundary of the first row is determined, after which a horizontal line is drawn on the wall. When installing the first strip, this line will serve as a guide.

Important! Between the ends of two adjacent panels there should be a gap of 1.27 cm. Stage 4

Appropriate accessories are installed on the door and windows - platbands, ebbs, final overlays. For greater accuracy, the strips of material are joined at an angle of 45ᵒ.

Stage 4. Appropriate accessories are installed on the door and windows - platbands, ebbs, final linings. For greater accuracy, the strips of material are joined at an angle of 45ᵒ.

Fixing vertical elements

Stage 5. The remaining panels are installed from the bottom up, focusing on the first row. Each panel is inserted into the profile and nailed (not completely). The interval between the panels should be 0.4 cm, and between them and other components - from 0.6 cm to 1.25 cm.

Details are fastened with a gap

The panels are superimposed on one another by ½ of the factory mark, while vertical overlaps should be avoided - they are more visible from the side of the facade.

Stage 6. In the upper edge, the sheets are installed in the same way as under the windows. Only whole panels are used, trimming is possible only for gables. When installing the last row, a J-profile is used with holes ø6 mm, made in 0.5 m increments (to drain water from the roof).

Installation technology of external wall panels

We will talk about the construction of a facade of single-layer facing elements made of polyvinyl chloride. The panels are mounted on an uneven base on a frame made of galvanized metal profiles.

Front wall panels are mounted practically at any temperature. Installation is prohibited only in severe frosts, when the thermometer drops below -15 ° C. Facade cladding work consists of several stages:

1. Training.
2. Crate for mounting panels.
3. Fastening of facade panels.

Training

Substrate preparation work must be completed prior to installation of the load-bearing frame. Extra elements are removed from the facade, such as an external unit for an air conditioner. From the windows, the ebb and sheathing of the slopes are removed. If the facade is wooden, then it must be treated with an antiseptic to inhibit the processes of decay and the development of fungus. If the facade is stone or concrete, then such processing is not necessary.

Facing without insulation does not provide for the installation of a vapor barrier membrane. If external lighting is planned, then wiring is carried out at the preparation stage.

Crate for mounting panels

The crate for facade panels can be made of wood or U-shaped profile. The second option is preferable, since the galvanized profile does not corrode and does not collapse. It does not need additional protection.

On a flat base, it is allowed to mount the profile directly on a bare wall. If the facade is curved, then a frame is mounted under the facade panels.

The frame consists of brackets and bearing profiles. With the help of brackets, the frame is leveled. The profile is mounted on a pre-marked surface of the facade. Marking is carried out using a laser level and a measuring tape

The first horizontal element is installed 50 mm from the ground. A starting bar for facade panels is attached to it. The installation step of the vertical guides is 500-600 mm, and the horizontal ones depend on the height of the cladding element. Horizontal guides are made of J-profile. For fastening, self-tapping dowels with a pitch of 300-400 mm are used.

Facade panel fasteners

Installation of facade panels starts from the bottom corner strictly from left to right and from top to bottom. The first row is installed on the starting bar. The left end, which goes to the corner, is cut exactly at a right angle. Then it is fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the nail holes and the body of the wall. The second panel is connected to the first one up to the junction of the temperature compensators and fixed in the same way. To increase the strength of the structure, the panels can be glued to the starting bar with mounting foam.

The device of the facade of single-layer and multi-layer panels can be done by hand. The work is not particularly difficult, subject to the rules and technologies. Facade panels will be complemented by a wide range of additional elements that allow you to hide small flaws of a novice installer.

Installation of facade panels video

Now let's look at the process step by step:

• We install a substructure made of metal or wood (depending on the requirements of the facade slab manufacturer). To do this, we mount the guide bar at the very bottom of the entire structure, drill holes in it for self-tapping screws at a distance of 30–40 centimeters. From each edge of the wall there should be a gap of a little more than 10 centimeters for the subsequent installation of the outer corner. It is very important that the guide rail is attached to the wall in a perfectly horizontal position. This is the beginning of all installation work, and the slightest unevenness at this stage will make the geometry of the entire facade incorrect.
• After the plank is fixed and secured, it is necessary to install the outer corners on adjacent walls. A J-profile is placed around doors, arches, windows. Between this profile and the panel, a gap of 0.5–1 centimeter is made, which is necessary for further expansion and contraction of the panels when the temperature changes.
• When the frame is in place, we proceed to install the panels. If for this the sheets need to be cut, then the cut edge must be placed on the left, and the even one should be left for further strong adhesion to the next panel. The panel sheet is inserted into the plank and moved to the outer corner. After using the building level you make sure that the sheet is fixed evenly, and it fits snugly against the corner, you can fix it with self-tapping screws.
• From the first sheet, which will serve as a kind of guide for you, continue to install subsequent sheets. In this case, the following should be taken into account: the corners must necessarily be at the same level as the facade panels.
• Before installing the panels, the facade is covered with a layer of thermal insulation and a hydro-windproof membrane. Not everyone does this. We advise you to cover the house with a good thermal insulation material. After all, the main function of facade panels is the insulation of the house. For this, it is best to use basalt mineral wool - this is the most reliable and safe material, which is characterized by increased durability and incombustibility. Some consider it possible to reduce the cost of thermal insulation and choose fiberglass or polystyrene foam, but the fire resistance of these materials is much lower. Waterproofing material will protect the insulation from getting wet. Please note that during installation work, insulation without waterproofing cannot be left outdoors for several days. Otherwise, the cotton wool will absorb too much moisture and will not be able to effectively perform its functions. In a situation with the choice of waterproofing, some also tend to purchase an economical film, but such a choice cannot be justified. Be sure to provide a ventilation gap that will not allow condensation to form on the inside of the sheets of facade panels.

High-quality facade panels are quite difficult to distinguish from natural materials.

At first glance, it may seem that the above sequence of actions is quite simple and does not require any building skills. Nevertheless, this work requires accuracy, and the most common mistakes are made already at the very beginning of work - if the bar is installed incorrectly, when one of its edges goes up or down.

The main thing is the correct marking and a horizontal frame.

The subsequent installation of sheets will take place quickly enough. Nevertheless, we advise you not to rush to mount the panels and double-check the position of each sheet before fixing it. We recommend reading the article.

PVC panels

PVC siding is the easiest and cheapest way to decorate the facade of a building. Such panels are popular for several reasons: ease of installation; low cost; huge color options. Of the shortcomings, it is worth noting that such panels are made of plastic and any facade will look plastic even at the farthest distance.

This type of panel is installed exclusively horizontally. For work, you will need a construction or any other knife. In addition, a puncher will be needed. You will also need a level to determine the angle of the panels, as well as a hammer for driving nails.

The initial stage of installing PVC panels is a preliminary inspection of the house. It is necessary to determine the location of the first row of panels. In the case of a new building, it is recommended to install panels from the beginning of the foundation. Also, PVC panels can be installed from the initial row of the old finish.

Beginning of installation

Next, you should install the initial frame, namely: corners, both external and internal, platbands, first strips for attaching panels. Installation begins from the corners. The gap between them and the eaves should not be more than 6.5 mm.

The most important stage, on which the further fate of the entire facade will depend, is the installation of the first strip of panels.

It is important to install the first strip of fasteners as correctly as possible, since the fastening of the panel itself depends on it. If the strip was laid evenly, then the panel will be even.

General provisions

On windows and doors it is necessary to install platbands, ebbs and linings. And after the completed steps, the installation of all the remaining rows of the facade begins. The top panel is inserted into the profile and nailed, but not completely. Between the panels there should be an interval of 0.4 cm, and between other components - no more than 6 mm. In order to avoid vertical overlaps, it is recommended to install the panels at half the factory mark. So the joints will not be visible from the front side.

The sequence of installation of facade panels

When installing panels, remember that parts of the products will need to be cut off. For this, a construction knife is used. A ruler and level are also needed to more accurately measure the angle and draw a straight line on the product. We draw a line on the panel in the place where you need to cut off a piece, carefully draw it several times with a knife. Plus plastic - it is ideal for such manipulations.

It is necessary to be extremely careful, since mechanical damage is very visible on such material.

Such panels are most in demand because of their ease of installation and low cost. In addition, PVC products are installed at various heights of the building, as they are very light. Installation of such panels is simple and does not require much time.

The final step is to install the top row of panels. Only whole panels are needed for the top row. In addition, the last panel is closed with a special profile for water outflow.

Video - Installation of basement siding

Their benefits

This is:

• aesthetic qualities: thanks to the imitation of various textures and a large palette of colors, they allow you to make the house stylish and beautiful;
• long service life and ease of operation (just wipe the panels with plain water and they already look like new);
• the light weight of the facade slabs reduces the load on the foundation;
• good water repellency;
• acceptable price;
• you can add insulation or use panels with insulation.

facade panels- this is a facing material made of polymer sheets (usually from expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam) with perforation with the possibility of fastening with self-tapping screws literally on any surface (from and ending with wood).

Facade cladding panel

Installation of light facade panels

The first step will be the manufacture of the crate. It can be of several types, but the most important thing is to decide if you need insulation under the facade elements or not. It must be remembered that even if you live in a warm area, insulation serves not only to retain heat, but also protects from heat. It takes on the moisture of evaporation and transfers the dew point beyond the walls of the house. Modern heaters are noise absorbers and carry part of the protective function of the facade system. This is only the main part of the advantages of organizing a facade with heaters. True, there is a drawback: the material has a cost of 200 rubles per square meter. On the other hand, if the walls require quality straightening, you cannot do without it. It is better to follow the advice and design a good ventilated facade on your house, then straightening the walls is not required.

Sheaths are of two types

Manufacturing of crates

The crate can be made of metal and wood. For heavy slabs, such as those made of natural stone, glass or porcelain stoneware, the framework is required from a metal profile.

Let's take a metal grill as a basis. If you live in a warm area, then vertical planks can be dug into the ground, and in areas with freezing soil, you need to measure at least 40 cm from the ground and start attaching the planks in increments of 91 cm or slightly less than the size of the insulation. When fastening plates without insulation, horizontal strips are mounted to vertical strips without protrusions "flush", the strapping step will be 46 cm.

Strapping plan

Setting the start profile

We proceed to the installation of the starting profile. It is mounted above the tide, if any. In the case of a ventilated facade, the ebb is installed under the J-profile, into which the lower layer of insulation is attached. Installation of the starting profile begins along the bottom bar of the frame strictly horizontally. Don't forget to measure the corner panels. Usually their sides are 10 cm, so the starting profile is mounted with a 10 cm indent from the corner. If the lower edge of the slab requires trimming, then the starting profile is not used, and the lining is screwed or nailed directly to the crate.

Lathing with starting profile

Installation of the first row

Attach the corner first. Now move the first panel along the starting profile to the left until it is completely connected to the corner

Note that the mounting pins must mate correctly. Fix the plate and fill the joint with sealant. Move on to the next plate, moving from left to right. Cut the boards if necessary, taking care not to cut more than one field joint.

The elements are cut with a grinder or a saw with rare teeth. Adjust the saw stroke to avoid chipping. Cut the last panel to size.

Installation of the first row

Subsequent rows are fastened according to the scheme of the first row. For "brick" facades, it is necessary to move the slab relative to another in order to get a natural pattern of a brick wall.

Shaping internal corners

To mount internal corners, you can use a J-profile or cut the plates according to the size and pattern. Take two profiles and install in the inner corner of the building. The fastening step is 15-20 cm.

The last row of panels ends with the fastening of the J-profile and the ebb.

Installing a J-profile for internal corners