Nanoizol c instructions for use. Which side to put the vapor barrier: we solve all controversial issues. Membrane structure and principle of operation

NANOIZOL A is a single-layer vapor-permeable membrane designed to protect building structures and insulation in them from wind and condensate, as well as from possible leakage of the main coating. NANOISOL A has a fibrous structure. The outer side of the membrane has a denser and smoother surface for rapid dripping. The inner side is designed to hold drops of condensate and quickly evaporate them. This structure of the membrane ensures the removal of water vapor from the structure and insulation, protects them from moisture from the external environment and protects against weathering of insulation particles. NANOISOL A Black differs only in black color.

NANOIZOL A prevents the deterioration of thermal insulation characteristics and prolongs the service life of the entire structure. Made from polypropylene and non-toxic.

Installation instructions for NANOIZOL A/A black

In the structures of frame walls and walls with external insulation (Fig. 1 a, b, c)

"NANOIZOL A" is rolled out perpendicular to the uprights, with the smooth side outward, and fixed to them with staples. The overlaps between the canvases are at least 10 cm. It is allowed not to leave a gap between "NANOIZOL A" and the insulation. The lower edge of the membrane must ensure the removal of flowing moisture to the ebb of the basement of the building. In the future, it is recommended to install a counter-lattice to securely fasten the material to the structure and provide a ventilated gap of 3-5 cm. Nails or self-tapping screws are used to fix the rails. The counter crate will be the basis for attaching the outer skin (blockhouse, siding, OSB, etc.).

In ventilated facades (Fig. 2)

First, the hinged facade fastening brackets are installed (in accordance with the recommendations of the facade system manufacturer.) Then the insulation boards are fastened with a minimum number of dowels (1-2 per board). The sheet "NANOIZOL A" is rolled out with an interference fit (without a gap) on the surface of the insulation vertically or horizontally. The layout of the panels should provide a natural drain of external moisture penetrating under the cladding. The overlap of the panels is 150 mm. If the membrane is not stretched, acoustic pops are possible. Holes are cut in the canvas at the outlets of the brackets. Further, the insulation and "NANOIZOL A" are finally fixed with the required number of dowels to the wall (in accordance with the recommendations of the insulation manufacturer). The number of dowels recommended for fastening "Nanoizol A" is at least 4 per 1 m2. The minimum distance of the dowel from the edge of the leaf is at least 70 mm. For better fixation, we recommend placing dowels in places where the sheets overlap. In the places where the brackets exit and where the sheets overlap, gluing with adhesive tapes is allowed. In the event of a web rupture, gluing with similar tapes is possible.

In the construction of basement ceilings (Fig. 3)

"NANOIZOL A" is laid between the logs on the subfloor and around the beams (logs) from above. Then, insulation is laid between the beams. If possible, you can fasten "NANOIZOL A" to the logs from below from the side of the ground and strengthen it with slats, which will also serve as a support for the insulation. It is necessary to use a heater recommended for use in basement ceilings. If the operating conditions of the basement floor deviate from normal (poor ventilation of the underground space, high soil moisture under the building, etc.), then it is better to consult our partners or representatives. Perhaps it would be wiser to use another material from the NANOIZOL line.

In insulated pitched roofs with various coatings (Fig. 4)

The use of "NANOIZOL A" as a waterproofing membrane is associated with a number of important features during installation. The material "NANOIZOL A" is rolled out perpendicular or parallel to the rafters outside the roof with an overlap of 10-15 cm, with the smooth side outward. The material is laid with a mandatory sag of 2-2.5 cm between the rafters, while it is important to provide the necessary gap between the membrane and the insulation (at least 2.5-3 cm). To do this, an additional beam is stuffed on the rafters, or the rafters are initially installed 5 cm higher than the planned thermal insulation layer. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 5-8 cm between the roof ridge and the panels, thereby ensuring unhindered air flow through the lower ventilation gap. It is not allowed to use staples without a wooden lath installed over the membrane at the attachment points. "NANOIZOL A" is necessarily fastened with a counter-lattice, it also provides the upper ventilation gap. To fix the rails, nails or self-tapping screws are used. A crate or solid flooring is mounted along the counter-lattice, depending on the type of roofing. When constructing a valley, it is recommended to consult a specialist. In places of overlapping of the canvases and in places of junction with structural elements, gluing with connecting tapes is allowed. It is impossible to allow contact of the material "NANOIZOL A" with a heater, and it is strictly not allowed to use "NANOIZOL A" on roofs with a slope of less than 35 °, as this leads to a decrease in the waterproofing ability of the material. The lower edge must allow natural drainage of moisture from the membrane surface into the gutter. In order to ventilate water vapor and condensate, both ventilation gaps must be properly ventilated, i.e. to ensure free passage of air in the ventilation gaps, overlapping of places of air movement is not allowed. To do this, ventilation holes for air circulation are provided in the lower part of the roof and in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ridge.

Until recently, glassine served as the only type of vapor barrier. Cut, attached, fixed - that's all! And only a few decades ago, a more convenient polyethylene film appeared, and more complex and reliable materials began to be made on its basis. Yes, modern options please not only with strength characteristics, but also with resistance to temperature and ultraviolet changes, and with their versatility. But, at the same time, they are upset by the more complicated instructions for their use: they should be connected along a clearly defined line, and only special tape should be used, and - most importantly! - the laying side must be chosen correctly.

Therefore, it is not surprising how often panic questions can be found on the Internet, such as how and which side to put the vapor barrier to the insulation, and what to do if the parties are still mixed up? Is it really necessary to disassemble the entire structure? We can assure you: you don't have to. And with the definition of which side is "correct", let's take a closer look - you will be very surprised!

What is the essence of roof vapor barrier?

Moisture protection of the insulation is one of the most important problems of thermal insulation, and we will now tell you why.

By itself, water is an excellent conductor of heat, because it is not without reason that it is used in heating and cooling systems. And, if the roof insulation is not sufficiently protected from the steam from the room, then this will not end well. Even in the warm season, you will not know about the problem, because. such steam will be easily vented due to heat and good ventilation. And in hot countries, where there is no sub-zero temperature, they don’t think about the vapor barrier of the insulation at all, because the problem is imperceptibly solved by itself. But in the Russian latitudes, due to the temperature difference in the cold season, the steam rises and penetrates the insulation, concentrating in the form of water when it meets the so-called "dew point".

At the same time, the top layer of insulation in the roofing cake freezes and creates one more condition for getting wet from the inside. The efficiency of the insulation itself is significantly reduced, and the changed structure contributes to the development of fungus and corrosion. Moreover, with a large amount of moisture, it can even seep back into the room and damage, thereby, the interior finish. This is exactly what a vapor barrier is for.

And in order to understand how to properly mount the vapor barrier, you first need to understand the design itself. So, the insulation is protected from two sides by completely different films that perform opposite tasks. From below, from the side of the living room, a vapor barrier is installed that will not allow steam to pass through, and from above - a vapor-permeable membrane, which, on the contrary, will release excess steam from the insulation, if it is “cotton-wool”, and protect it from roof leaks:

But where is the logic, you ask? How can steam get into the insulation if there is a vapor barrier in front of it? In fact, not a single film or membrane protects 100%, and there are still poorly glued joints and other construction errors. And therefore, some minimum amount of steam will still be in the heater, and it is important to competently bring the steam out without harm:

Look carefully at the diagram: do you see where the condensate appears in a well-equipped roof? That's right, not from the side of the room, but quite a bit from the side of the roof, on the other side of the insulation, and it is easily removed by a windproof anti-condensate film or membrane. But condensation should not appear on the vapor barrier, and none of its rough side can cope with it, because. it has a different structure, and we will prove it to you now.

Types of vapor barrier materials: A, B, C and D

To understand, after all, which side of the vapor barrier should be laid and why, for example, both sides of it suddenly turned out to be smooth, you must first determine its type. After all, not every species generally has two different sides!

Type A insulation: only for steam outlet on the other side

For example, type A cannot be used as a roof vapor barrier because in the end all the vapors will end up in the insulation. After all, the main task of such isolation is precisely to provide them with unhindered passage, but not to let rainwater through from the other side.

Such insulation is used in roofs with a slope angle of 35 °, so that water drops can easily roll off and evaporate (and the ventilation gap between such insulation and the insulation helps them evaporate).

Vapor barrier B: classic double-sided installation

But B is a real vapor barrier material. Vapor barrier B has a two-layer structure, which avoids condensation, due to the fact that moisture is absorbed into its villi in the morning and ventilated during the day.

That is why type B vapor barrier is always placed with the smooth side towards the insulation (film side), and the rough side outward. Vapor barrier B is used only in insulated roofs, because for non-insulated, it has too little strength.

Type C membrane: for enhanced water vapor protection

Vapor barrier type C is a two-layer membrane of increased density. It differs significantly from type B in the thickness of the vapor barrier film layer. It is used in the same place as type B vapor barrier, but in itself is more durable.

Additionally, such a vapor barrier is used in non-insulated roofs to protect the wooden elements of the attic floor and in flat roofs to enhance the protection of thermal insulation. Vapor barrier C must also be laid with the rough side inside the room.

Polypropylene insulation D: for heavy loads

The newfangled type D vapor barrier is a particularly durable polypropylene fabric, in which one of the sides is a laminating coating. This can withstand significant mechanical stress. It is used not only to insulate the attic floor as a waterproofing layer, but in the insulated roof to protect it from leaks. Moreover, type D vapor barrier is indispensable for rooms with especially high humidity.

Here are the cases and where all these types of insulation are needed:

Does vapor permeability change when changing sides?

All of the above modern barriers are divided into the following types:

  • for one-sided installation, which need to be rolled out only on a certain side, and it is recommended not to confuse them;
  • and for double-sided use, usually with membranes that can be laid on either side.

You will be interested to know that for the first time membranes, which already had such properties as modern roofing, were used in astronautics! And from there they began to be used in construction and in many areas of the national economy. And until recently, there were not as many problems with their installation as they are today.

And now there is a strong opinion among the townsfolk: if you lay the vapor barrier to the roof insulation on the “wrong side”, then the whole structure will not last long. In fact, the right choice of side affects only the service life of the interior finish of the roofing cake, because the rough side has the same abilities as the smooth one and has exactly the same vapor permeability. But how much it retains droplets of condensate there is a little-studied question.

Let's deal with such concepts as condensate - this is important. There is a catch here: for some reason, most ordinary people are sure that if high-quality vapor barrier is used, then there will be no condensate at all. Or vice versa, it will quickly evaporate on its own. In fact, condensate is formed from the moisture that rises in the vapor state.

There is such a thing as a “temperature limit”, i.e. that specific condition under which the air temperature and humidity are sufficient for the vapor to come out in the form of droplets. For example, at a temperature of 15 ° C and an air humidity of about 65%, condensation will already begin to form. But if the air humidity reaches 80%, then the condensate will appear already at a temperature of 17 ° C.

In other words, the entire process of water vapor formation appears as a result of the so-called "partial pressure" difference. All the water vapor that is contained in the air is trying to go outside - to a colder street through the enclosing structures of the roof, but on its way they meet a barrier in the form of a vapor barrier. If the air in the house warms up faster than the surface of the vapor barrier, then the moisture from the air will fall on it in the form of condensate. Here, the difference between an insulated roof and an uninsulated one is clearly visible: any vapor barrier that is laid on a heater will warm up much faster than something that is in direct contact with the cold elements of the roof.

If there is no vapor barrier layer at all, or it is not enough, then water vapor penetrates into the roofing pie and meets a “cold front” there, which turns steam into condensate, and under special circumstances also into ice. And it all happens inside the roof! This ice will not bother you until spring comes and the outside air warms up, thereby warming the roofing elements. Then the accumulated ice will melt and form whole smudges on the slopes inside the house.

But with a properly equipped roof, condensate should not appear at all, and therefore, in fact, the difference between a smooth and rough side is not significant, at least in this aspect.

What is the difference between an anti-condensation film and an "anti-condensation side"?

As we have already said, most modern manufacturers emphasize that their vapor barrier films have a so-called “anti-condensation side”:

The “anti-condensation” side differs from the usual “anti-condensation” side by the presence of a fleecy layer that absorbs a small amount of condensate and holds it until it evaporates.

Due to this, the risk of wetting the surface of the film is much lower, which prolongs the life of the interior finish of the roofing cake. That is why the rough side should always be directed inside the living room or attic, and the smooth side should be leaned against the insulation. But is it really so?

Practice shows that if condensation forms inside the roofing cake, then the fleecy side of the film cannot help in this regard, and there is not much difference whether these drops stick to the film or flow down. The fact that they exist at all is bad in itself. The anti-condensation side of the vapor barrier and the anti-condensation waterproofing film on the other side of the insulation are two completely different things!

Therefore, let's summarize: the "correct" side of the vapor barrier is not equivalent in terms of the properties of the anti-condensation film: it does not remove water vapor, does not destroy moisture drops and does not solve the problem with condensate.

But, if you are still in the process of building a roof, then for the sake of peace of mind, do as the manufacturer instructed in the attached instructions. If you have already laid the vapor barrier and doubt whether it is correct - forget it and do not worry anymore. But if you hope that the “correct” side of the vapor barrier will take on all the future shortcomings of the roofing pie, do not believe it.

Experienced roofers often state that they generally consider the epic about which side to attach the vapor barrier to, some kind of shamanism. Allegedly complicating the product, they increase its positioning in the market. But in fact, as we have already said, with a well-arranged vapor barrier, there should not be any droplets on the walls, otherwise even the lining on the walls will swell, and the wallpaper will fall off, since everything is so serious.

After all, this happens only with serious errors during the construction of the roof. In addition, if the vapor barrier itself will be between drywall and mineral wool, then there is no point in messing around with such a complex structure at all. By itself, drywall absorbs moisture well, and steam can hardly reach the internal vapor barrier. In this design, even a simple glassine is quite acceptable!

For example, some curious roofers even run their own vapor barrier tests to determine if the "wrong" side works or doesn't work:

And those who are especially quick-witted even say that with a rough side, polyethylene vapor barrier is obtained simply in the factory, when polyethylene is combined with non-woven material: the film is glued with a rough layer, and the finished product really has two different sides. And it makes no sense to refine the second side so that it also becomes smooth by connecting with another layer of polyethylene: the vapor barrier properties will not change, and the manufacturing process becomes more expensive.

And therefore it is easier to give this meaning to the product itself. And in fact, quite a lot of people have already become convinced that, even if they mix up the sides of the vapor barrier, nothing like this happens, and the film works the same way on both sides, fully fulfilling its functions.

Therefore, in any case, just strive to implement roof protection from steam correctly, think through all the necessary details and not save on quality!

It's a pity, but any good deed, any excellent material can be spoiled. The worst thing is when it happens out of ignorance. This fully applies to the device for insulating and protecting the thermal insulator. Failure to comply with technology leads to disastrous consequences. It is cold at home, energy consumption has not decreased, it is digging from the ceiling. At autopsy, it turns out: the insulation is wet, the rafters began to rot. At this point, we begin to remember: And which side to lay the vapor barrier to the insulation so that it doesn't happen?"

Heat and vapor barriers

The following types of heaters are produced and widely used:

  • polyurethane foam;
  • polystyrene foam (extruded and foamed);
  • organic (natural);
  • mineral (basalt).

Due to the high hygroscopicity, the latter type of insulation requires the mandatory installation of a vapor barrier.

There are several types of vapor barrier:

  • rolled with impregnation;
  • liquid (coated);
  • adhesive (sheet and roll);
  • polyethylene (films);
  • reflective (with aluminum coating);
  • "breathable" (membrane).

For most materials used for vapor barrier, it does not matter which side they will face in one direction or another. This is possible due to the homogeneity of the components used, the solidity of the structure, and the simplicity of the design. When laying the last two types, it is necessary to understand which side to attach the vapor barrier to.

Choosing steam insulation

Before choosing and purchasing a vapor barrier material, you need to figure out which one will provide reliable protection for the insulation in specific conditions.

It is recommended to use roll materials impregnated with bitumen or coal tar for temporary insulation of structures during construction. They are not convenient and difficult to install. Sealing of joints is provided by gas burners, which is not very convenient and not safe indoors.

It is not entirely rational to insulate the ceiling and walls with coating compositions due to the rather high cost of the material and increased labor intensity. This method is more suitable for insulating concrete floors in rooms with high humidity (washing rooms, steam rooms). When applied in two layers, they provide complete waterproofing of building envelopes.

Protecting the installed insulation from steam using adhesive materials is not justified due to the high labor costs. Such insulators are successfully used to isolate joints of various building materials, places of communication passage.

When installing a polyethylene film as a vapor barrier, the question of which side to lay correctly does not arise.

It has identical opposite surfaces. Some experts recommend using it only for wind protection, temporary protection of insulation from precipitation, insulation of concrete floors. It should be remembered that the polyethylene used in this capacity provides complete insulation of the enclosed space with tight joints. With temperature differences or their difference in the internal and external environment, water condensate forms on its surface, which will eventually end up in the insulation. To prevent this process, good ventilation of the protected volume must be ensured.

  • short service life;
  • low mechanical strength;
  • high degree of deformation at high and low temperatures.

What steam is preparing us bad

During human activity, air saturated with water in varying concentrations is released into the surrounding atmosphere. Cooking, washing, watering houseplants, cleaning increase the concentration of steam. He climbs up and tries to get out of the room with a high temperature outside, where the temperature is lower. Due to the temperature difference, it condenses and settles on the objects surrounding it: logs, rafters, insulation.

Even wood treated with protective antiseptics and painted iron give up, and begin to rot and rust. The mineral heat insulator retains 2 times less heat when moistened by 5%.

The main reason for what is happening: either a completely absent vapor barrier, or not knowing which side to put the vapor barrier to the insulation.

What is a membrane made of and how does it work?

"Breathing" membranes are a complex set of materials that perform different functions. One cuts off steam, the second is the power base, the third prevents moisture from entering from the outside. In a number of films there are only two layers (there is no reinforcing layer). Understanding the functioning of the material leads to understanding how to properly install the vapor barrier.

Each of the layers has holes for the passage of air. The small diameter of the first level cuts off moisture, passing the dried stream further. The reinforcing layer does not prevent its passage, due to the rather rare arrangement of power threads. The larger hole diameter of the third layer creates the necessary draft to prevent air stagnation in the membrane.

Part of the vapor barrier products has a special anti-condensation layer made of viscose and cellulose. It is rough to the touch. It is in it that moisture lingers, settling on thin fibers. Removal of accumulated moisture occurs naturally. To ensure evaporation, a ventilation gap between the material and the finishing of the room is at least 25 mm.

Let's figure out how to fix the vapor barrier, how to lay it, using the Nanoizol membrane as an example.

We isolate roofs and walls with external insulation

Installation of vapor barrier on the roof and on the wall begins before laying the insulation. If you put the insulation against steam incorrectly, you will have to disassemble the entire “pie”.

After the frame has been treated with an antiseptic, a vapor barrier film is installed on the roof or wall.

It is installed from the inside close to the logs (rafters) or rough sheathing. It is fixed with staples of a construction stapler or galvanized nails on a wooden base.

A vapor barrier is laid on concrete, block and brick surfaces using a connecting tape.

On walls and inclined surfaces, it is necessary to lay the vapor barrier film from the bottom up in horizontal stripes. At the same time, overlap the lower panel with the upper one by 10 cm. At the same time, the vapor barrier provides wind protection for the insulation.

Lay the vapor barrier correctly, with the smooth side close to the insulation, the rough side inside the room (to the wall). The tightness of the connection to the enclosing structures, pipelines, ventilation should be provided with a connecting tape.

After the correct installation of the vapor barrier on the ceiling, a 3x5 cm lath is installed for the installation of the finish, insulation is laid on the wall. Protect the wall heat insulator from external influences using a windproof film and trim.

Insulation of interior partitions

When reconstructing or overhauling a private house, it is necessary to isolate heated rooms from unheated ones. For example, a cold corridor (canopy) from living rooms. In this case, which side of the vapor barrier should be laid?

All wooden frame materials are treated with septic tanks to protect against insects and decay.

Mounting order:

  • a counter-rail is stuffed onto the enclosing structure, providing a ventilation gap;
  • on the laid rack frame, it is necessary to attach the vapor barrier with the smooth side inside the room;
  • on top of it, the racks of the frame are installed;
  • insulation is laid between the racks;
  • on the installed racks, a vapor barrier film is installed with a rough surface facing the room;
  • Nanoizol is fastened to the frame with staples or nails with a wide head, then with counter rails, followed by the installation of front panels or trim.

We protect interfloor ceilings

The correct laying of the vapor barrier of the frame floor is as follows:

  • depending on the material used, the load-bearing structures are treated with compounds that provide long-term protection during operation;
  • on the underside of the ceiling with brackets or with a tape, Nanoizol is fixed with the rough side inside the room and fixed with longitudinal counter rails;
  • from above, thermal insulation is laid in the frame close to the insulator (the height of the racks must be equal to the thickness of the insulation);
  • on top of it, the vapor barrier is laid out with a smooth side close to the insulation and fastened with longitudinal counter-rails (the overlap of adjacent panels should be at least 20 cm, the canvases are interconnected by a connecting tape);
  • across the counter-rails, the floor of the upper and the ceiling of the lower floor are installed.

We cut off the attic and basement

How to make a vapor barrier for an unheated basement and attic?

Correctly laying the basement vapor barrier is somewhat more difficult than in other cases.

It must be assumed that it is best to work in the following sequence:

  • we provide a ventilation gap of at least 5 cm between the ground level and the expected floor level;
  • we lay pre-treated logs at a distance equal to the width of the insulation;
  • on the floor logs we fix the draft floor from the board (you can use unedged) or slats;
  • Nanoizol must be laid with a rough surface down, bending around the logs;
  • we lay the heat insulator (the insulation should be placed with a slight compression to prevent slipping during operation);
  • after laying the thermal insulator, we install the vapor barrier with the rough side up;
  • we fix the insulation material with a counter rail at least 25 mm high;
  • we install the finished floor.

Vapor barrier, installation of attic insulation is carried out in the same order as the interfloor ceiling. It is necessary to lay the vapor barrier Nanoizol with a rough surface inside the room, a smooth one - to the insulation. In the event that the attic is not heated, we install waterproofing under the roofing material, we protect the upper part of the insulation with the subfloor of the attic.

Protection against water and steam in baths and saunas

With the provision of reliable hydro-vapor barrier in humid rooms with elevated temperatures, the material copes well with a thin aluminum foil applied to it. An example of such insulation is premium Isobond FS. Aluminum foil ensures that up to 90% of the released energy is returned to the room. This allows you to quickly raise the temperature in the steam rooms and maintain it at a high level without additional energy consumption.

Proper vapor barrier involves treating the frame with septic tanks to protect against insects and decay. After installing the external insulation, a membrane is laid on the insulated ceiling and walls with the foil side inside the room. It is easier to lay the vapor barrier on the ceiling by first cutting the rolled fabric into pieces of the desired length, taking into account the necessary entry to vertical surfaces of at least 10 cm.

Overlapping aluminum vapor barrier installation instructions do not provide. Ensuring tightness to be made by an aluminum self-adhesive tape. In the case of using reinforced double-sided construction adhesive tape, at least 10 cm of insulation layers are applied. This ensures the preservation of the properties of adhesive tape that is not intended for operation at high temperatures.

The acquired knowledge, which side of the insulation to lay insulation from steam, the correct fastening of the vapor barrier, will ensure the preservation of heat in the house and comfortable conditions for the functioning of the insulation for a long time.

A fairly common problem after warming a house is the lack of the expected effect from the work performed. It would seem that a traditional material has been chosen, for example, mineral wool, everything is done according to building laws and canons, but it is still cold inside the room. The reason for this may be the ignorance of the “specialists” of elementary norms, including which side to put the vapor barrier on the insulation. Let's look at this issue in more detail.

Vapor barrier is divided into two types according to the method of application:

  1. liquid paint vapor barrier;
  2. vapor barrier membranes (film).

Paint vapor barrier is applied with brushes and rollers in places where rolled vapor barrier is difficult to apply, such as ventilation and chimneys. This family of vapor barriers is represented by materials such as bitumen, tar and tar.

Vapor barrier membranes

First of all, we will determine the types of vapor barrier films according to their purpose. According to their specificity, membranes used in construction are offered in the following versions:

  • membranes with vapor barrier properties;
  • membranes are vapor permeable.

To protect the mineral wool from moisture from the inside, it is necessary to additionally lay a layer of vapor barrier. When insulating the roof, floor or interior of the house located directly below it, it is recommended to use the appropriate film. Note that the insulating layer is laid from below, under the laid mineral wool (from the side of the room).

In cases where external wall protection is carried out, then the corresponding components should not have perforations or pores.

Always pay attention to the value of the vapor permeability coefficient, the smaller it is, the better for you. An excellent option is the usual plastic film. The ideal choice would be a material with additional reinforcement. The presence of a foil-coated aluminum coating is considered only a plus.

Do not forget that the presence of a vapor barrier finish leads to a multiple increase in humidity in the insulated space, so you should take care of a good ventilation system in advance.

Polyethylene reinforced film

Existing special vapor barrier films are made with an antioxidant coating. Due to it, moisture accumulation does not occur. As a rule, they are attached under components that are sensitive to rust formation. We are talking about metal tiles, corrugated board, galvanization, etc. The rough fabric layer on the underside of the film guarantees effective moisture removal. It is laid with the treated side to the insulation, and the fabric side out, so that a distance of 20-60 mm remains to the mineral wool.

https://youtu.be/xTWpLwH8-QI

Video #1. IZOSPAN vapor barrier laying technology

When insulating the walls of the house from the outside, a building membrane is used that is capable of evaporating and protecting the material from strong wind gusts. In addition, it is suitable for protecting pitched roofs, facades with a non-hermetic base from moisture. Often, the vapor barrier film has very small pores and surface perforations, due to which water is effectively removed from the insulation into the ventilation ducts. The process is better, the more actively the evaporation takes place. This will allow the insulation to dry quickly and efficiently.

There are the following types of vapor-permeable films:

  1. Pseudo-diffusion membranes that pass no more than 300 grams / m2 of vapor for 24 hours.
  2. Diffusion membranes, with a vapor permeability coefficient in the range of 300-1000 grams / m2.
  3. Superdiffusion membranes, with an evaporation rate of more than 1000 grams / m2.

Since the first type of insulation is considered a good protection against moisture, it is often placed under the roof surface as an outer layer. Additionally, it will be necessary to provide an air gap between the insulation layer and the film. At the same time, this component is not suitable for facade processing, since it conducts steam rather poorly. This is due to the penetration of dust and other debris into the pores of the membrane during dry times, the “breathing” effect disappears and condensate begins to accumulate on the surface of the insulating material.

Super diffusion membrane IZODACH 115

The two remaining types of membranes have large pores, which eliminates the possibility of their blockage, which is why there is no need to leave an air ventilation layer in the lower part. As a result, it is not necessary to mount the crate and counter-rails.

Bulk diffusion films are commercially available. A ventilation layer is already provided inside the membranes, due to which moisture cannot reach the metal surfaces. The specifics of the film device are similar to the antioxidant version. The difference lies only in the removal of moisture from the insulation. This is beneficial, because when the roof is tilted, even at a small angle of 3-15 degrees, the possibility of condensate draining through the bottom is excluded. Therefore, corrosion of the galvanized coating will gradually occur, followed by its final destruction.

Which side to attach the vapor barrier to the insulation

First you need to figure out in which places you may need to lay a vapor barrier membrane, and then decide on the side of the vapor barrier.

  • If insulation is laid from the front of the wall, then the vapor barrier film is fixed from the outside, this will be a waterproofing.
  • The processing of the ceiling and roof requires the use of an antioxidant vapor barrier. Bulk and diffusion coatings are often used. They are laid on top of the mineral wool according to the principle of organizing a ventilation facade.
  • In the absence of additional insulation of the roof and ceiling, the vapor barrier film is attached to the underside of the rafters.
  • Thermal insulation of the upper part of the ceiling of rooms, the ceiling located under the attic space, requires the installation of a vapor barrier membrane on the underside of the insulation.
  • When performing thermal insulation of walls and floors from the inside, it is recommended to additionally lay a vapor barrier film on the outside of the mineral wool.

Many "experienced" builders do not even have a clue how the vapor barrier membrane should be attached to the walls: front or wrong side.

The best solution would be to use a material with the same wrong side and front side.

And what to do in the case of a one-sided option, in particular with antioxidant insulator? You need to know that the wrong side is a fabric surface, which is located during laying in the inside of the room.

Determination of the laying side of the vapor barrier

A metal plane circulates in the same direction foil membrane- shiny side inside the room.

For any film vapor barrier materials the following rule applies: the smooth side is laid against the insulation, while the rough side should face the room.

The same rule applies foam vapor barriers, which are placed with the smooth side to the insulation.

The vapor barrier is laid with the dark side to the insulation

It must be borne in mind that when rolling a roll, for example, on the floor, the inner side must be on the floor.

In addition, most often the darker side is the outer.

Do you need an air gap at the membrane?

You should always leave it. A special gap up to 50 mm wide is arranged on the underside of the films. This will avoid the appearance of condensation on the walls, floor and insulation. It is important to avoid contact between the facing surfaces and the membrane. Using diffusion film for floors, walls or ceilings, you save yourself from many problems, since it can be fixed directly on a heat insulator, OSB or moisture-resistant plywood. A ventilation layer will be required on the outside of the membrane. In the version with an antioxidant component, the air gap should be within 40-60 mm on both sides.

Arrangement of a ventilation gap when laying a vapor barrier

If everything is clear with the walls and floor, then with the roof and ceiling the situation is kept apart. When making a ventilation gap, additional installation of a counter-lattice based on wooden bars will be required. When organizing a ventilated facade, a gap is left when erecting horizontal profiles and racks located perpendicular to the wall and the film.

Video #2. Vapor barrier laying technology ONDUTIS

How is the vapor barrier attached?

Fixing the membrane to the walls, floor or ceiling can be done with wide-head nails or a construction stapler. However, the best choice would be the use of counter rails.

The vapor barrier is laid with an overlap with an overlap of at least 10 cm. After the vapor barrier is fixed, the joints are glued with special adhesive tape or vapor barrier tape.

Conclusion

In conclusion, we say that the membranes will allow any building structure to last an extremely long time. Unfortunately, it is impossible to achieve a positive ratio of moisture and temperature in other ways. In addition, do not forget about the rules for laying vapor barrier. Most manufacturers also distribute installation instructions along with the product. This is especially true for diffusion and superdiffusion membranes. Therefore, do not be too lazy to clarify with the sales assistant all the questions you are interested in before purchasing.

Which side to put the vapor barrier to the insulation

When insulating a roof or a room with a heat insulator (mineral wool, glass wool, loose foam plastic), capable of passing and accumulating moisture, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier layer. Moisture that has entered the thermal insulation noticeably worsens its operational properties, increasing thermal conductivity. In addition, due to the humid environment, the wooden structures with which the insulation is in contact quickly begin to rot and collapse. At the stage of preparing for the insulation of a roof or house, it is important to figure out which side to lay the vapor barrier to the insulation - a violation of the technology will lead to the fact that steam from the room will penetrate into the heat-insulating layer.

What steam protection is needed

Varieties of vapor barrier materials

The primary issue is the choice of material that will protect the insulation from moisture. The classic roofing felt and glassine, which were used for waterproofing, gave way to modern polymer films with different operational parameters. The membranes used in construction are divided by vapor permeability into completely impermeable films and partially permeable (diffusion) ones.

Manufacturers offer vapor barrier membranes of the following types :

  • polyethylene film (can be used to insulate the roof or floor, the barrier is vapor and hydro-tight);
  • reinforced film made of polyethylene (characterized by increased strength);
  • aluminum foil film (used for internal insulation, mounted with a reflective side to the room - additionally helps to retain heat, primarily designed for use in saunas and baths);
  • a film with an anti-condensation coating (prevents moisture condensation, is intended for installation as part of structures with metal elements prone to corrosion - corrugated board, metal tiles, etc. the film is mounted with the treated side to the heat insulator).

Reinforced polyethylene film If a completely impermeable film is used to create a vapor barrier when insulating rooms in a house, it is necessary to provide for effective ventilation of the premises, capable of removing excess moisture to the outside.

Vapor barrier films with a porous structure differ in their ability to diffuse. Due to the pores in the barrier, the moisture from the insulation goes outside, thanks to which the heat insulator retains its operational properties, and the metal structures in contact with it do not rust, and the wooden structures do not rot. Among vapor-permeable membranes, there are :

  1. Pseudo-diffusion. During the day, up to 300 g / m 2 of evaporation is passed.
  2. Diffusion. The amount of vapors passed per day is from 300 to 1000 g/m 2 .
  3. Superdiffusion. The evaporation rate exceeds 1000 g/m 2 .

The vapor barrier film of the first type is classified as an effective protection against moisture and is used for internal insulation of structures (from the side of the room). If a pseudo-diffusion membrane is mounted over a fibrous heat insulator on an outer wall, the vapor barrier will retain moisture in the insulation. Diffusion and superdiffusion membranes are suitable for facade insulation, which at the same time serve as a wind barrier.

Principles of installing a vapor barrier

Laying a vapor barrier is an important stage in the insulation of structures with fibrous materials that can accumulate moisture. The work is carried out as part of the repair or reconstruction of the house or at the stage of preparation for finishing a new building. It is necessary to know how to properly fasten the membrane sheets to each other in order to provide a continuous layer that protects against moisture penetration, how to attach the film to structures. Before laying the vapor barrier film, it is also necessary to determine which side it needs to be placed to the insulating material.

Preparatory stage

For warming a block or wooden house, arranging a bath, heat-insulating materials are used that need to be protected from moisture accumulation. To this end, on the walls inside the house, on the ceiling or floor, on the inside of the roofing pie, a material that does not allow evaporation is mounted. Or a diffusion membrane for facade insulation.

At the preparatory stage, you should choose a vapor barrier option, taking into account the installation features and the requirements for film characteristics. Popular options include Izospan (and its analogue Megaizol) - a membrane material with high performance parameters. The manufacturer offers a line of membranes with various technical indicators, which allows you to choose the material depending on the purpose - vapor barrier for roofs, ceilings, wall structures made of wood or concrete.

Those who plan to build a bath, not without reason, believe that the foil film will reliably protect the mineral wool insulation from getting wet and help maintain a high temperature in the room by reflecting heat radiation. Along with the classic "insulation + vapor barrier" scheme, ready-made non-combustible heat-insulating mats with a vapor-proof foil surface are used today.

Correctly fasten the reflective vapor barrier

Before laying the vapor barrier, it is necessary to correctly prepare the surfaces of the structures. The preparation technology depends on the material from which the walls, floor, ceiling or roof are made. It also takes into account what work is being carried out at the facility - construction or repair :

  1. When building a wooden house, all elements of the wood structure must be treated with compounds against decay, damage by pests and fire.
  2. During the repair work, the finishes are preliminarily dismantled, the surfaces are cleaned, while:
    • wooden structures are treated with an antiseptic and flame retardant.
    • concrete and block structures are treated with an antiseptic if they are damp and there is a risk of mold, as well as in wet rooms.

Due to improper preparation of wall structures, ceilings or truss systems may eventually become unusable or become a source of fungal spores that can provoke allergies, an asthma attack, and exacerbation of respiratory diseases.

How to install vapor barrier on the ceiling

Installation of a vapor barrier layer on the ceiling is required when insulating a flat or shed roof in a house without an attic, when insulating a basement, as well as residential premises, above which a cold attic is located. The ceiling in the bath is also insulated and vapor-insulated. Before laying the vapor barrier on a concrete slab roof, on a reinforced concrete or wooden floor from the inside, the surface of the structure must be prepared.

The canvas of the film or pseudo-diffusion membrane must be solid so that there are no joints through which moisture can penetrate into the insulation. If the width of the roll material is not enough, the strips will have to be joined together. The recommended overlap of the canvases is from 10 to 20 cm, while the joints on both sides are carefully glued with reinforced construction tape.

Fastening the vapor barrier membrane Sheets of foil film are laid without overlap - end-to-end, and the seam is glued with aluminum tape.

If the base of the roof or ceiling is a wooden structure, first lay a waterproofing membrane (solid sheet) and attach it to the base (vapor barrier material can be used).

Then, in the gaps between the floor joists or rafters, a heat insulator is placed in the form of mats or rolled material made of mineral (basalt) wool. After that, you can lay the vapor barrier on the ceiling. If the thickness of the heat insulator corresponds to the thickness of the log, a counter-lattice of rails should be nailed to create a ventilation gap.

Lay the vapor barrier on the ceiling in such a way that the canvas along the entire perimeter goes onto the walls, and that all corners are closed. The joints of the canvases should fall on the overlap logs - this will allow them to be securely fixed. In order to qualitatively lay the vapor barrier on the ceiling, follow the tension of the canvas, it should not sag .

Ceiling installation

We will also consider how to lay a vapor barrier on a concrete floor. In order to insulate a ceiling or a flat roof made of a concrete slab from the inside, it is required to attach a waterproofing coating (vapor barrier film) to it with a self-adhesive tape, and then mount a crate of bars or a metal profile.

The correct height of the crate should be selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation and the ventilation gap, the installation step is 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation, so that the mats of insulation materials fit into the cells by surprise. How to fix the vapor barrier to the crate will be described in detail below.

How to install vapor barrier on the floor

The installation of a vapor barrier membrane on the floor is similar in technology to how vapor barrier is performed for walls and ceilings. After preparing the base of the wooden floor during insulation along the logs, before laying the vapor barrier on the floor, a waterproofing carpet is mounted, which should go around the logs. Then a mineral wool heat insulator is inserted between the lags. After that, the vapor barrier is laid, and it is important to know how to properly lay the film.

The overlap of the sheets of rolled material should be at least 10 cm, while on each side the joint is glued with adhesive tape. The resulting canvas is fixed in such a way that the overlaps lie on the floor logs, and along the entire perimeter the evenly stretched canvas goes onto the walls by 5-10 cm.

Insulated floor with air gap

Before laying the vapor barrier on the concrete floor, it is necessary to install a crate, between the elements of which the waterproofing and insulation will lie at random. Further work is carried out according to the standard scheme.

Fastening principles

If concrete structures or wooden walls are insulated, it is necessary to install a crate of bars. It is convenient to attach the film to the resulting crate, to the ceiling or truss system using brackets and a construction stapler. It is also possible to fix the vapor barrier material with nails with wide heads or linings under the hats. It is advisable to use galvanized nails - they do not rust. Films and membranes are placed on concrete structures using a special connecting tape.

Overlap during installation of vapor barrier

In order to properly fix the vapor barrier, the canvas should be carefully stretched, and the fasteners should be placed in small increments - no more than 30 cm. The installation rules prescribe to carefully consider the fastening of the canvas around the perimeter - it spreads and is fixed so as to exclude the possibility of moisture penetration into the insulation.

Before attaching the vapor barrier, make sure that the canvas is positioned with the correct side to the thermal insulation.

Which side to mount the vapor barrier material

Consider which side the film or membrane is laid to the insulation :

  • polyethylene film (plain or reinforced) can be attached to either side - this does not affect the functionality of the barrier;
  • the foil film is placed with the shiny side towards the room so that the barrier reflects heat;
  • the antioxidant film is attached with the treated side to the structures, the fabric side to the room;
  • the membrane should be turned with a smooth side towards the heat-insulating material, and a rough side towards the room.

The rule of laying the vapor barrier to the insulation If the front side of the membrane looks similar to the wrong side, and it is difficult to determine how to properly lay the material, you can conduct an experiment. A small piece of the membrane covers a bowl of boiling water - which side condensate appears on, that side is waterproof, it should be facing the heater.

It is important to know which side to put the vapor barrier to the insulation, if the membrane is used to install a waterproofing barrier - front or back. The heat-insulating "pie" with internal insulation is mounted in such a way that the smooth side of the membrane faces the insulation on both sides. That is, the rough layer of vapor barrier should be turned towards the room, and when installing a waterproofing carpet - towards the structure that is being insulated.

Mounting Features

It is important not only to properly lay the vapor barrier, but also to provide a ventilation gap between the vapor barrier layer and the sheathing of the structure for finishing, for which counter rails are stuffed along the crate. Moisture settling on the rough side of the laid vapor barrier sheets will evaporate naturally without damaging the finish.

Diagram of an insulated roof with a ventilation gap

If the vapor barrier is installed correctly, the insulation is reliably protected from moisture. Almost half of the problems associated with freezing and damage to structures are associated with flaws in the installation of the vapor barrier.

Which side to lay the vapor barrier to the insulation

Foreword. When building a private house, special attention should be paid to the vapor barrier of the ceiling, floor, walls and roof. If this important step is skipped, the structural elements of the building will not last long. We will talk further about why it is important to arrange a vapor barrier in a private house and how to do it correctly.

Overview of heaters

Properties Rockwool Light Butts

Minvata Izover: characteristics

Knauf heaters: characteristics

Properties of Ursa PureOne mineral wool

Why do you need a vapor barrier insulation

A special film that protects the heat-insulating material from moisture must be included in the "pie" of walls or roofs. The fact is that due to the temperature difference, especially in winter, condensate settles on the walls and ceilings on the street and in the house, indoors. As a result, the heat insulator gets wet and stops performing its functions. The house is getting cold. In addition, moisture leads to damage to the structural elements of the building.

Depending on the variety, the cost of the material may be different. For example, an ordinary vapor barrier polyethylene film costs about 500 rubles per roll. The foil version will cost about 1400-1800 rubles. A three-layer diffusion membrane will cost about 4000-5000 rubles. The popular Izospan vapor barrier will cost about 800-1000 rubles. per roll.

Types of vapor barrier materials

Vapor barrier in a frame wall. A photo

There are only three main types of films designed to protect mineral wool or expanded polystyrene from moisture:

Standard. The cheapest and not particularly durable type of vapor barrier. In most cases, this is an ordinary thick plastic film.

foil. It costs more than polyethylene, but at the same time, in addition to the actual vapor barrier, it performs another function - it reflects heat back into the room. Owners of country houses are very often interested in which side to lay the vapor barrier on the walls and ceiling. This question usually arises in relation to this variety. How such a film is actually mounted, we will consider a little lower.

Membrane. Differs in limited vapor barrier. This allows you to control the removal of moisture from the room.

Basic rules for laying vapor barrier

Of course, before you go to the store to buy film, you need to do all the necessary calculations. It is quite easy to carry out this procedure. All that needs to be done is to calculate the area of ​​​​all structural elements of the house that require protection. The calculation is made taking into account the width of the vapor barrier film and the necessary overlaps.

How to distinguish the inside from the outside

Enlarged photo of the vapor barrier

If the manufacturer's instructions are missing or do not contain the necessary information about which side of the film is considered the inside, then you should independently determine this by external factors. You should pay attention to the following:

If the waterproofing film has a different color on both sides, then the light side of the isospan is laid against the insulation;
. The side of the waterproofing, which, when rolled out, faces the floor, is considered internal and should look towards the insulation;
. The outer side is made fleecy so as not to let moisture through, and the inner side is smooth and fits in the direction of the insulation.

Which side to put the vapor barrier on the insulation

Of course, it is also worth knowing how to lay this type of vapor barrier. In this case, as in all others, the crate is initially installed. Sheets are mounted on it and fixed with self-tapping screws. The joints are sealed with adhesive tape.

Which side to lay the vapor barrier on the floor

Video. Which side to lay Izospan on the insulation

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Vapor barrier: everything you need to know about protecting insulation from moisture

What is vapor barrier, why is it needed, and how is it performed? I've thought about this before. Now, having gained experience in this matter, I will accurately convey the technical points, and step by step I will describe the technology for installing the vapor barrier.

From the vapor barrier depends not only on the effectiveness of the insulation, but also the durability of the structure.

Why moisture protection is needed

Why is vapor barrier needed at all? As you might guess, its meaning is to protect surfaces from steam. Moreover, we are talking not only about visible steam, but also about moisture, which is always present in the air.

Inside the dwelling, the level of humidity is almost always higher than outside, which is explained by cooking, washing and taking water procedures. Since the steam moves towards the cold - outside, excessive moisture can significantly reduce the life of building structures and the effectiveness of the insulation.

Insulation of walls from the inside with mineral wool must be carried out using a vapor barrier film

Protection is needed in the following cases:

  • When insulating walls from the inside with mineral wool. As you know, the level of vapor permeability and moisture absorption of mineral wool is quite high.
    Therefore, the lack of vapor barrier can lead to the accumulation of moisture inside the insulation. This, in turn, will lead to a decrease in the effectiveness of the insulation, dampening of the walls, the formation of fungus, etc.;

Styrofoam-insulated frame walls from the inside must be protected from moisture with a vapor barrier

  • When insulating frame structures. Vapor barrier is necessary for frame walls, wooden floors and pitched roofs, not only in the case of using mineral wool insulation, but also polymer ones, which have zero vapor permeability.
    The fact is that the zero vapor permeability of thermal insulation leads to the fact that all moisture rushes into the elements of the wooden frame. As a result, the tree quickly becomes unusable;

Vapor barrier film must be used when insulating floors

  • When insulating floors. Vapor barrier in this case allows you to protect the insulation from rising steam.

In the case of using mineral wool inside the partitions, vapor barrier can be omitted, since there are no temperature drops in the partitions that can lead to the formation of condensate.

As we found out, the vapor barrier should not allow air to pass through, which carries moisture. Therefore, the vapor barrier film should not be confused with waterproofing, which often has the ability to pass air.

Currently, the following materials are used for vapor barrier:

Polyethylene

Polyethylene films are the cheapest option for vapor barrier. As a rule, polyethylene film is used for waterproofing floors and walls.

Single layer polyethylene film is cheap but not durable

Kinds. Polyethylene films come in several types:

  • Single layer. The cheapest, but not durable, and also unstable to mechanical stress;
  • reinforced. They are a three-layer material. The middle layer is made of fiberglass mesh.

Reinforced film is tear resistant

Thanks to the reinforcing layer, the film has higher strength and durability;

  • Foil. The main feature of these films is the ability to reflect heat.

The photo shows a polypropylene vapor barrier film - it has high strength and a long service life

Polypropylene

Polypropylene vapor barrier films are the most popular, as they are superior to polyethylene in all respects. In particular, they are stronger, more durable, and resistant to UV radiation and temperature extremes.

Another feature is that these films usually have a two-layer structure. As a result, one of the sides has a rough surface.

One side of the polypropylene vapor barrier has a rough surface that traps moisture

This is done so that the villi retain moisture on the surface of the coating and thereby allow it to evaporate. Beginners often ask which side to put the vapor barrier on?

The material is laid with the smooth side to the insulation, and the rough side to the lining. True, if you mistakenly fixed the canvas with the rough side to the insulation, this is not a critical mistake, since in any case the material does not allow moisture to pass through.

Therefore, a ventilation gap is required between the film and the finishing material.

Axton vapor barrier from the French manufacturer Leroy Merlin has established itself as a reliable and durable material

Price. Below are the prices for popular vapor barrier materials that have proven themselves well:

The nuances of installing vapor barrier films

Fundamental rules

So, we figured out the types of vapor barrier materials. However, the quality and effectiveness of steam protection depends not only on the type of material, but also on the quality of its installation.

Therefore, finally, consider the technology of laying vapor barrier. But, first I will give some important installation rules:

  • The vapor barrier is attached from the side of the housing. Since steam flows from the inside of the room to the outside, the vapor barrier is always installed from the inside, which allows for a sealed circuit;

The vapor barrier is always mounted on the inside of the insulation

  • The film must be correctly positioned relative to the insulation. Which side to lay the vapor barrier to the insulation, I have already said above - smooth for thermal insulation, rough for finishing;

Diffuse membrane allows moisture to pass through in one direction

  • From the outside, the insulation is protected by waterproofing. It is almost impossible to provide complete protection of thermal insulation from steam. So that penetrating moisture can leave the insulation, it is closed on the back side with a waterproofing diffusion membrane.
    This material is able to pass moisture only in one direction;
  • The vapor barrier must be airtight. To prevent the film from passing steam, it is necessary to seal the places of its contact with the frame, and also glue the joints of the films with double-sided adhesive tape.

Mounting technology

We will consider the technology of film installation using the example of vapor barrier of frame-type walls. This procedure can be divided into several stages:

Instructions for the use of vapor barrier is as follows:

Sources:

When building a country house or a private bath, an important step is the thermal insulation of various surfaces. In addition, the insulation itself needs high-quality and reliable vapor barrier protection. To prevent the negative impact of external factors and the formation of condensation on the thermal insulator, any homeowner should have a general idea of ​​\u200b\u200bhow to properly install the vapor barrier in order to ensure the long life of the entire building.

Membrane structure and principle of operation

The most popular in terms of their performance characteristics are breathable multilayer membranes, which are designed to create a reliable vapor barrier.

They consist of three layers, each of which performs an important function. The first layer prevents the penetration of steam into the insulation, the second provides the necessary strength of the base, the third protects against moisture from the outside.

Each individual layer has the necessary perforation for good air exchange. The first layer removes excess moisture, allowing the penetration of dried air. The reinforcing layer keeps warm air masses inside thanks to a special weaving of threads. The third layer provides a sufficient level of traction within the structure.

Some types of membranes have an additional anti-condensation layer on a viscose or cellulose basis. It retains excess moisture deposited on the paper fibers. For the natural removal of moisture from the membrane, a technological gap of 2.5 cm is provided between the vapor barrier and the surface finish.

Features of the installation of vapor barrier

An important stage in the protection of insulating materials is the laying of a reliable vapor barrier layer. All work is carried out in the process of repairing or reconstructing a finished building or during the construction of a new building. In order to properly install the vapor barrier, it is necessary to understand how to connect the membrane sheets and which side to fix them to the insulating base.

Preparatory work

At this stage, work is underway to select the appropriate type of vapor barrier, taking into account the features of the installation process, performance characteristics and material requirements.

Before laying the vapor barrier, careful surface preparation will be required. Here it is important to consider the type of material used in the construction of floors, walls, ceilings and roof structures.

  1. During the construction of a log house, all structural elements are treated with protective antiseptics and flame retardants.
  2. When carrying out repair and reconstruction work, a complete dismantling of the finishing, cleaning and preparation of surfaces is carried out:

Wooden elements are treated with compositions against aging, rotting and burning. Concrete, block and brick surfaces are treated with deep penetration antiseptic compounds.

Proper surface preparation will ensure a long service life of the insulation material and the entire structure.

Technology for laying vapor barrier on the ceiling

If the roof structure and interfloor flooring are made of wood, then the installation of the waterproofing membrane is carried out on a prepared base.

A roll or block insulation is mounted in the space between the rafters and lags, the best option is mineral or basalt wool. Next, you can lay the vapor barrier on the ceiling surface.

When the thickness of the insulation is equal to the height of the log, an additional lath counter-lattice is installed to maintain natural ventilation.

It is necessary to mount the vapor barrier on the ceiling with a slight overlap on the walls along the perimeter, with special attention to be paid to the corners. Joints are best placed on logs and glued on both sides with tape on a reinforced basis.

Important! When installing a vapor barrier, sagging and deformation of the sheets should be avoided.

For thermal insulation of a flat roof or concrete ceiling, a waterproofing film is mounted on a self-adhesive tape from the inside, then a crate made of wood or metal is installed.

The height of the crate is determined based on the thickness of the heat-insulating material and the minimum technological gap for ventilation. The installation step is 3 cm narrower than the width of the heat insulator, which makes it possible to ensure high-quality laying of the insulator in the prepared cells of the crate.

Technology of laying vapor barrier on the floor

The scheme of installation of vapor barrier protection on the floor is similar to how the material is laid on wall and ceiling surfaces.

The wooden floor is insulated along the logs, which are covered with hydroprotection. Further, a heater is laid in the space between them - cotton wool on a mineral or basalt basis. After that, the vapor barrier material is laid.

The roll material must be laid with an overlap of 12 cm with careful gluing of the joints with metallized tape on both sides. A properly installed vapor barrier should completely cover the floor surface with an overlap of up to 10 cm on the walls.

To equip the vapor barrier protection on a concrete base, it will be necessary to install a crate, in the cells of which a waterproofing layer and a heat insulator will be laid.

Choosing a side for installing a vapor barrier

After the material for the vapor barrier has been selected, an important question should be considered - which side to attach the vapor barrier to the insulation. Such materials can be fixed as follows:

  • Polyethylene films (reinforced and plain) are laid on either side, which does not impair the protective properties of the material.
  • Foil films are installed with the reflective side inside the room to effectively reflect heat.
  • Anti-condensation films are mounted with a fabric surface inside the room, processed - to a heat-insulating base.
  • Membranes of any type are attached with a smooth surface to the heat insulator, and with a rough surface - inside the room.
  • Foam-based insulators are laid similarly to membrane materials.

Important! Before laying the vapor barrier to the insulation, it is recommended to spread the prepared material on a flat surface to correctly determine the inside and outside.

Face or underside of the vapor barrier?

If a breathable membrane is used to create a protective barrier, the main thing is to determine which side to put the vapor barrier on - the front or the wrong side.

The vapor barrier cake must be laid so that the protection is directed to the heat insulator on both sides with a smooth wrong side, and with a rough front side - inside the room.

The rough surface provides protection against moisture penetration to the insulation, and the smooth surface contributes to maximum heat accumulation.

Determining the width of the lap when installing the membrane

Along the edge of the insulating membrane there is a special marking for determining the width of the overlap of the sheets, which ranges from 8 to 20 cm.

The vapor barrier strips on the roof should be laid in a horizontal plane from the bottom up overlapping each other 15 cm wide. In the ridge, the overlap is 18 cm, in the valley - 25 cm.

On walls, ceilings and floors, the canvases are mounted with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Is ventilation required?

At the bottom of the membrane vapor barrier there is a 5 cm ventilation gap, which helps prevent condensation on surfaces and the heat insulator.

Diffusion membranes can be attached to insulation, plywood sheets or OSB. In a membrane with an anti-condensation layer, gaps up to 6 cm wide are located on both sides.

To create a gap for ventilation when insulating the roof structure, a counter-lattice is used. In the process of fastening a ventilated facade, a technological gap is created during the installation of racks located perpendicular to the vapor barrier.

Elements for fixing the vapor barrier

To securely fasten a membrane or film vapor barrier, wide-head nails or metal construction staples are used. The most practical fastener option is counter rails.

To increase the tightness of the structure, individual elements of the vapor barrier are additionally glued with double-sided adhesive tape or wide metallized tape.

To ensure the long service life of modern heaters, high-quality vapor barrier protection is required. Otherwise, it will be difficult to obtain the optimal ratio of temperature and humidity indicators in the premises. The main thing in this matter is to choose the right material and know how and which side to lay to the heat insulator.

It is used to protect insulation and building structures from the penetration of water vapor from inside the room.

Vapor barrier "Nanoizol B" is used to protect building structures and insulation from saturation with water vapor from inside the room in buildings of all types. The vapor barrier is installed on the inside of the insulation in the structures of the insulated roof and walls, as well as in the interfloor ceilings. Material "Nanoizol B" - a two-layer polypropylene film with an anti-condensate surface, necessary to retain drops of condensate and their subsequent evaporation. In winter, Nanoizol B vapor barrier prevents the formation of condensate, fungal infection and corrosion of structural elements; protects the interior of the building from the penetration of insulation particles.

Vapor barrier "Nanoizol B" significantly improves the heat-insulating properties of the insulation and extends the life of the entire structure.

Vapor barrier "Nanoizol B" is used in insulated sloping roofs of operated attics with various roofing coverings: metal tiles, corrugated board, euro slate, etc. It is installed on the inside of the insulation on the elements of the supporting frame or on the rough sheathing. Vapor barrier "Nanoizol B" serves to protect the insulation from the penetration of vapors from inside the room.

Material "Nanoizol B" is used as a vapor barrier for internal and external frame walls of low-rise buildings with internal or external insulation. The vapor barrier is installed on the inside of the insulation on the elements of the supporting frame.

Vapor barrier "Nanoizol B" is used as an insulating material in interfloor ceilings using all types of heaters. The vapor barrier is laid between the floor lags (beams) on the black floor (ceiling), I isolate the insulation on both sides.

When using laminate and parquet floors

Nanoizol V is used as a vapor barrier when installing parquet and laminated floors on concrete, cement and other substrates. It is laid on a cement screed under the floor covering.

In buildings with external wall insulation and in insulated roofs, Nanoizol B vapor barrier is laid on the inside of the insulation on the elements of the supporting frame (racks, beams, rafters) or along the rough sheathing using galvanized nails or a construction stapler. On roofs and walls, vapor barrier rolls are rolled from bottom to top with horizontal overlapping panels with an overlap of 10-15 cm. The use of roofing seals during installation of the roof will protect the roofing films from possible mechanical damage. When finishing the room with wooden clapboard (plywood, panels, etc.), the vapor barrier is fixed along the frame with wooden slats, and when using drywall, with galvanized profiles. The vapor barrier is laid with a snug fit with a smooth side to the insulation. The interior trim is attached to the rack frame or galvanized profiles with a ventilation gap of 3-4 cm. The vapor barrier panels must be fastened together with a connecting tape that ensures the tightness of the vapor barrier. The places where the material adjoins the enclosing (walls, ceilings) and penetrating (pipes, antennas) structures are also glued with tape.

In buildings with external wall insulation, Nanoizol B vapor barrier is laid directly on the inner surface of the wall with the rough side inside the room. To install a vapor barrier on a brick or block wall, a connecting tape is used. Then the material is fixed with counter rails or galvanized profiles, on which the inner lining (lining, decorative panels, drywall, etc.) is installed.

In the construction of attic or basement floors with any insulation, the Nanoizol B vapor barrier is rolled out between the floor joists (beams) on the black floor (ceiling) with the rough side outward and fixed with wooden slats or a construction stapler. Insulation is laid out between the lags (beams). The top layer of vapor barrier is laid across the beams with the rough side outward and fixed with rails. To fasten the vapor barrier sheets together, it is necessary to use a connecting tape.

Hydro-vapor barrier is a polypropylene fabric with a one-sided laminated coating of polypropylene film.

It is used as a hydro-vapor barrier in non-insulated roofs to protect wooden structural elements and attic floors from under-roof condensate, atmospheric moisture and wind penetrating in places where the roofing is not tightly laid.

Hydro-vapor barrier "Nanoizol D" is used as a vapor barrier when installing insulated flat roofs.

As a waterproofing layer in cement screeds when laying floors in basements, basements and in wet rooms.

In construction, it is used to protect building structures from the penetration of water vapor, snow and capillary moisture. Due to its high strength, it can carry a snow load for a long time.

Hydro-vapor barrier "Nanoizol D" is laid on the crate or flooring from the boards with the smooth side out. Installation is carried out from the bottom of the roof with an overlap of panels of at least 15-20 cm. The fastening of the material to the crate is carried out with a stapler or wooden slats. To ensure hydro-vapor barrier, the panels must be fastened together with a tape. The use of roof seals in the design will significantly extend the life of the entire roof.

In flat roof structures

Hydro-vapor barrier "Nanoizol D" is laid on floor slabs or other base and is used to protect insulation and other structures from vapors from inside the room. The overlap of the panels must be at least 15 cm and the fastening must be carried out with a connecting tape. A cement screed is laid on top of the material. When waterproofing the floor under the screed, it is necessary to bring the material onto the walls by 10-15 cm.

Hydro-vapor barrier "Nanoizol D" is laid directly on a concrete slab, a cement screed is mounted on top.

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