Do-it-yourself drywall window slopes. We make slopes on drywall windows with our own hands Finishing slopes with drywall with our own hands

After installing new windows or doors, the question of arranging openings arises. Builders offer to solve the problem in several ways. An old, long-mastered method is surface treatment with a cement mortar. But modern materials make it possible to make slopes from drywall, which has a perfectly flat surface. Another plus for using this material is ease of installation, quick work.

After installing the windows, it is necessary to seal the openings. The simplest, most aesthetic and fastest option is to make slopes with drywall.

Mounting methods

Builders note the ease with which drywall sheets are installed.

Most commonly used:

installation on a metal frame;
foam mounting;
installation with glue.

All methods are quite accessible to anyone without professional building skills. With self-installation of sheets there will be significant financial savings.

For the installation of slopes, it is necessary to use moisture-resistant drywall sheets.

Installation on a metal frame

Before you start working directly, you need to stock up on the tools that will be needed during the installation process. It:

metal scissors or grinder (for cutting profiles);
profiles UD (vertical), CD (horizontal);
sharp knife for cutting drywall;
drill or screwdriver;
screws;
level.

Before any installation of drywall slopes, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier tape around the perimeter of the window, treat the opening surface with an antifungal solution.

Before starting the installation, the walls are treated with a primer, after drying - with an antifungal compound. Carefully measure the dimensions with a tape measure and cut out the frame elements and drywall sheets.

A metal frame is installed along the perimeter of the surface. This is done with dowels. To give greater structural strength, several transverse strips are installed. Insulation is placed in the space between the wall and the sheet - mineral wool or polystyrene. This procedure will keep the heat in the room.

Sheets of drywall cut out according to preliminary measurements are attached to the base. Rules for installing slopes on the frame:

The distance between the screws should be 10 - 12 cm.
Distance to the edge - 1.0 - 1.5 cm.
Screw the head of the self-tapping screw to a depth of 0.5 mm.
Drywall is fixed on both longitudinal and transverse rails.
The upper part is mounted first, followed by the side ones.

During installation, it is necessary to check the correct location of the metal strips using a level.

Foam mounting

Builders use this method in several cases - when the wall cannot hold the dowel, and therefore mounting on metal is impossible, as well as when the distance between the frame and the opening is small. Foam is a good thermal insulator, it holds the material that is fixed on it well.

When using mounting foam, it must be remembered that during installation it increases.

When installing on foam, it must be taken into account that it increases in volume during installation.

The sequence of manipulations with this method of arranging slopes from GKL is as follows:

A recess is made in the gap between the window and the wall, corresponding to the thickness of the drywall sheet and a depth of 1 cm.
A sheet is inserted and treated with foam.
2 more layers of foam are applied: one - in the middle, the second - closer to the outer edge. The foam will increase in volume and the pressure on the strip will increase.

For better adhesion, before applying the foam, it is recommended to treat the wall with water. To provide room for volume growth, the slope is made 5 cm wider. After solidification, the protruding material is carefully cut off with a sharp knife. This method is appropriate for small openings. Otherwise, the foam will be overused.

Installing slopes with glue

Perhaps the easiest way to install drywall slopes. The construction adhesive "Perfelix" won the greatest popularity. Glue is applied pointwise on the prepared surface, in increments of 30 cm. The width of the strip is 10 cm. This measure will allow the composition to evenly cover the adhesive surfaces. After that, the sheet is pressed tightly against the concrete wall.

The upper slope must be supported, the side sheets must be secured with a pair of self-tapping screws.

After the glue dries, the excess elements are removed. The installation sequence is the same as in the previous method - first the top sheet, followed by the side ones. Performing work in this sequence will allow you to use the side panels as a support for the upper slope. This will give more reliability to the entire structure.

Glue must be used no later than 30 minutes. after cooking.

The remaining gaps are carefully filled with glue. Using a spatula, the composition is placed in the cracks until the voids are completely filled.

Joint processing

After installing the sheets, it is necessary to carry out the final work - to process the joints between the slopes and the window, the corners. To do this, use an acrylic sealant. This is a plastic material that will not crack; acrylic paint of the desired tone fits well on it.

The corners of the slope are carefully plastered. To strengthen the seam, a reinforcing tape or plaster mesh is applied to it. The outer corners are fixed with the help of perforated corners, which are fixed with a construction stapler or put on putty.

Finishing

The final stage of the installation of slopes involves surface treatment with putty. Initially, the surface of drywall sheets is smooth, so this type of work is not very difficult. The composition is applied to the surface of the slope, after a preliminary primer. For best results, you can cover the sheets with putty in 2 - 3 layers. After drying, the sheets are carefully polished. To do this, use sanding paper with a grain size of 180. Paper with a grain size of 120 is allowed, but the first option is preferable. Secondary primed. After drying, paint is applied.

To protect the window and window sill, masking tape is applied. The paint is applied in 2 layers with an interval of 2 - 4 hours.

Installation of door slopes

The technology for installing slopes for doors is basically the same as for window openings. The differences are possible in that all window slopes are made at a slight angle, while the doorways in the houses are straight. The device of slopes of straight lines from a plasterboard sheet is carried out in the same sequence as when installing window windows. Differences are possible in the installation of corners for slopes. For straight slopes, appropriate corners are selected. The rest of the work does not change.

When installing slopes for a doorway, the same technology is used as in windows, the only difference is in setting the corners for slopes.

Modern designers offer to use a different form of slopes in the interior. Arched doorways are gaining more and more popularity. Installation of this type of openings will require more effort and skills.

Initially, a frame is installed that is larger in height than a regular opening. The height depends on the radius of the arch. The standard excess is 20 - 30 cm. A metal frame is assembled according to the usual scheme. Drywall is fixed on it. The required radius is drawn on the installed sheets. After that, carefully using a jigsaw, the shape of the required opening is cut out. In the absence of a jigsaw, you can use a saw, but it will be physically more difficult, and besides, it is more difficult to cut a neat arc with a saw. Bulgarian cut arched elements UD. The length of each segment is 5 cm. We fix the cut-out border along the edge of the arch. Each segment is fixed.

The same operations are carried out with the second side of the doorway.

To work with a large radius, the plasterboard must be treated with water in order to bend the drywall.

Also, to make curved openings, you can use elastic sheets (arched). The device of slopes with a radius of plasterboard requires special preparation and much more effort.

Or doors, the ends of the openings should be ennobled - plastered or sheathed with suitable material, for example, plasterboard sheets. In this publication, it is proposed to consider 2 options for cladding - how to make plasterboard slopes on a metal frame and installation on a building adhesive mixture.

Choice of mounting method

Masters-finishers practice window and door slopes in two main ways:

Plasterboard blanks are attached to U-shaped profiles screwed to the ends of the walls and the window frame.
A GKL sheet cut strictly to size sits on gypsum glue and mounting foam.

Note. There is a third option - combined. The end of the workpiece adjacent to the window is fixed on the frame, and the inside of the sheet is fixed with an adhesive mixture.

We will not consider the pros and cons of each option, the task is to choose the right method that meets the installation conditions. We suggest using these simple guidelines:

The frame arrangement is logical with thick walls and a wide frame - it will take too much adhesive to fix the drywall.
When it is required to increase the slope angle or join the plasterboard finish of the room, fastening is also done on the profiles.
If the width of the wall is small, and the frame is close, the plasterboard is placed on the glue.

In the first case, the slope finish starts from the plane of the frame and covers part of the window profile (door frame). The second option provides for the adjoining of the finish to the outer part of the frame and therefore looks more aesthetically pleasing.

Sheathing scheme in a combined way

What materials are required

To arrange slopes of drywall with your own hands, purchase the following building materials:

moisture resistant plasterboard sheets (painted green);
deep penetration primer with the addition of an antiseptic;
polyurethane foam mounting under the gun;
U-shaped galvanized profiles of CD and UD grades or adhesive gypsum mixture (depending on the selected mounting option);
gypsum-based putty for interior work;
perforated corners.

Advice. If you plan to sheathe the opening in a combined way, then it is better to use a sloping corner or an L-shaped profile to adjoin the frame. Under the facing of slopes and windows on the frame, it does not hurt to lay a layer of insulation.

Scheme of mounting the cladding on glue

For the installation of steel profiles, you will need dowels and short galvanized self-tapping screws equipped with a press washer. Drywall is screwed with black screws 25-35 mm long.

Opening preparation

Regardless of the chosen method of fastening, it is necessary to perform a number of preparatory work:

Remove old plaster from the walls. It is not worth attaching drywall to it; after a few years, the finish may move away.
Trim the protruding foam blown out earlier by the installers, as shown in the photo below.
Remove the remnants of the old insulation and other foreign objects (protruding nails, screws, and so on). Try to remove as much dust as possible.
Treat the ends of the opening with a deep-penetrating primer with an antiseptic additive, let the surface dry.

If a fungus was previously observed on the slopes, the corners should be thoroughly dried with a heat gun, then a special primer should be applied. At the end of the repair, take care of the organization of air exchange in the room, otherwise the mold will appear again.

In general, there is no need to level the surface, but cracks and large potholes should be sealed with a cement-sand mortar. A large gap between the window frame and building structures is closed like this: cut out pieces of foam and put them on the foam. Cut off excess material sticking out with a knife.

We mount the cladding on the frame

Finishing work begins with measuring the width and height of the slopes in order to cut the profiles clearly to size. Please note: the width of the final finish must be the same on each slope. Also beat off the distance from the top panel to the ceiling. The sequence of installation of gypsum boards - the upper part, then the side walls.

Drywall frame slopes are mounted in this order:

Note. The width of the frame part depends on the lining of the rest of the room. If the walls are planned to be sheathed with plasterboard, the slats should be brought out of the inner plane of the wall. In other cases, adjust the width according to the opening.

After sheathing, it remains to putty the screw heads and panel joints. When the applied compound dries, level the surface with a grout and proceed to the painting step described. An example of mounting a metal frame, see the video:

Finishing by gluing

Judging by the reviews on construction forums, gluing GKL is the simplest and most common way of facing slopes. Since the technology does not provide for fixing drywall with screws, to fix the upper part, you need to prepare a support consisting of a wooden plank and a board. The dimensions of these parts are selected according to the height and width of the opening.

After completing the preparatory work, proceed to the finish according to the instructions:

The side slopes are finished in the same way. When finished, install perforated corners around the edges and apply a layer of finishing putty. When the building mixtures harden, you can proceed to grouting and further painting. See the video for a master class on pasting slopes.

In conclusion about the combined option

If landing GKL on glue seems unreliable to you, attach the outer side of the cladding with self-tapping screws using a simple technology:

Mount guides from a UD profile or a beveled corner by screwing them to the frame, window sill and the upper plane of the opening.
Prepare the glue and apply it to the edges of the slopes in a thick layer.
Attach the cut-out panel with screws to the rails, then press it against the wall. If possible, lay a layer of insulation under the drywall or fill the voids with foam.

Do-it-yourself drywall slopes are the most budget option in finishing plastic windows and doorways. This work can be done not only by a professional, but also by an amateur novice.

The main thing is to be able to use simple construction tools and do not forget about accuracy. This type of decoration is simple and does not require much effort. At the same time, the work can be done quickly and efficiently, and the slope will please the eye for many years.

What is drywall

Use waterproof cardboard for slopes

Gypsum board (GKL) is a building material in the form of a sheet, which consists of an outer layer of cardboard and an inner layer of hard gypsum dough and fillers. It can be bought at any specialized store, it is inexpensive, and when working with it you do not need to make any special efforts.

In the old days, finishing slopes with plaster was very popular. However, this brought a lot of difficulties. It is very difficult to ideally level the surface here, the plaster itself sometimes dries for several days, and not every beginner will be able to achieve the desired result the first time.

Another common finishing option is plastic slopes, but not everyone likes them aesthetically, and there may be problems with further maintenance, because. sometimes it is difficult to get rid of stains and dirt, because of which you have to resort to the help of special chemical compounds, so drywall finishing remains the most affordable option.

Follow the installation technology and the fungus will not be terrible

For slopes, it is preferable to use waterproof drywall. The advantages of drywall sheets as a building material are as follows:

environmental Safety;
simple manufacturing technology;
versatility of use (for finishing window and door openings);
low price;
beautiful appearance;
ease of care;
long service life.

At first glance, it may seem that the plasterboard finish is not reliable enough. There are the following misconceptions. The first opinion is that fungus and mold multiply under the gypsum slope. However, if the technology of working with these panels is correctly observed, then the fungus is not terrible.

The second misconception is that do-it-yourself slopes made of drywall are fragile and break easily. If you make an effort, you can break not only the gypsum structure, but also other building materials.

The third misconception is that such slopes absorb moisture.

For finishing, you should choose a moisture-resistant material. After high-quality work and compliance with all stages of the technology, drywall will not absorb and retain moisture.

Finishing technology

Most often, gypsum boards are mounted on a profile frame

So, how to make slopes from drywall. There are several ways to finish drywall:

fasten with a metal profile;
put on mounting foam;
glue on putty.

In choosing any of these options, the result will be excellent, you only need to adhere to a certain technology for performing drywall finishing. Professionals in their field often combine one finishing method with another.

To finish the slope from the GKL, you will need such auxiliary materials as: sickle, deep penetration primer, acrylic or oil paint, sandpaper, self-tapping screws, stationery knife, spatula, screwdriver, drill with a mixer nozzle, kneading container, grater for sanding the surface, brush.

Fastening with a metal profile

The desired element is cut under the installed profile

When attaching cut pieces of drywall using a metal profile, a single frame is made, the main thing is to ensure reliable fixation of the elements. The fastening process here is by analogy with wall decoration.

First, a metal profile is set in terms of level, horizontal and vertical. Next, the element itself is cut and cut to the desired size using a clerical knife.

To do this, in accordance with the given dimensions, outlines are made with a pencil, along these lines the drywall is cut with a knife, then the sheet is turned over and lightly pressed on it so that it breaks neatly along the cut line. After that, the lower part of the plaster is trimmed.

For additional insulation, it is recommended to lay mineral wool between the wall and drywall. This insulation is required when working with window slopes: it will help keep warm in harsh winters and cool in hot summers, and protect from street noise.

Very often, instead of mineral insulation, polyurethane foam is used, which helps to seal gaps in less accessible places where it is technically difficult to insert cotton wool. The use of a metal profile and foam is an excellent example of combining two methods of finishing slopes.

After filling the space between the gypsum and the wall, drywall is screwed with self-tapping screws. For better bonding, the joints are glued with a sickle, on top of which a layer of finishing putty is applied.

To strengthen the angle between the wall and the slope, a perforated corner is used. It can be fixed with a stapler or put on a putty solution. After complete drying, sanding is done to a uniform state of the plane with sandpaper and a special grater. At the last stage, two layers of paint are applied.

Acrylic or oil paint can be used to finish the slope. Sticking on the slope of the wallpaper is also suitable. At the final stage, when working with windows, it is recommended to seal the seam between the drywall and the window frame using a special sealant that will not allow the putty to peel off and lose its appearance over time.

The advantages of using a metal profile include the speed and cleanliness of work. As disadvantages, one can note the narrowing of the window opening due to the insertion of the profile and the need to fill the void between the wall and drywall.

Mounting with mounting foam

Drywall is mounted on mounting foam if it is not possible to install a frame

This method of fixing drywall is not very common. It is used when there is no place to install a metal profile, or the material from which the wall is made is not able to withstand the dowel-nails. In this case, polyurethane foam comes to the rescue. She firmly glues the plaster to the wall.

As you know, mounting foam tends to expand and bulge, so a reliable temporary fixation of drywall elements with long self-tapping screws is necessary. After fixing the gypsum, the same stages of finishing the slope follow, which were described in the previous section. For more information about the installation of drywall slopes, see this video:

The advantages of fixing slopes with mounting foam include its adhesive and heat-insulating properties, and as disadvantages, its ability to expand should be mentioned, as a result of which additional fixation of drywall is necessary.

Fastening with putty

Fastening starts from the top panel

This is the most common slope mounting option. The technology of work in this case is elementary. First, the mounting foam resulting from the installation of the window or door is cut off. Remove all old layers of surface finish (paint, plaster, wallpaper).

If there are gaps and deep cracks, it is recommended to seal them with plaster. After that, the slope plane is treated with a deep penetration primer. It is advisable to use soil with the addition of impurities for antibacterial treatment against mold and mildew. Next, drywall elements of the desired size are cut out. They are attached to the surface with any putty.

When installing slopes, work begins with fixing the top sheet. To do this, using a spatula, a continuous layer of putty is applied to the drywall and inserted into a pre-prepared groove cut in a layer of pre-applied mounting foam. On the side panels, the mixture can be applied pointwise, every 20 cm. This will save material and the drying time of the slope.

If additional fixation of the gypsum is necessary, you can resort to the use of self-tapping screws with long caps, which will need to be unscrewed at the end of the work. If necessary, you can put specially prepared props. Further work on finishing the slope is carried out by analogy with the technology described in the "Mounting with a metal profile" section. How to fix drywall on putty, see this video:

The advantages of fixing drywall with putty include ease of operation. The downside can be noted that this method of finishing is not suitable for all surfaces. So, putty does not stick to a wooden plane.

As you can see, finishing the slopes with drywall with your own hands is quite simple to perform. The main thing is to adhere to the proverb “Measure seven times, cut once” when working with gypsum in order to avoid a large consumption of this material.

And of course, one must not forget to follow all the stages of the technology for fastening and finishing slopes described above.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

No repair will be considered complete until the windows are in order. By themselves, window structures are usually mounted by specialists, so there are no special problems with them, which cannot be said about slopes. In the process of dismantling the old ones and the slopes become completely unusable. After all the work with the windows, they will have to be brought into proper form. With proper skill and a little theoretical preparation, the installation of slopes is quite doable with your own hands.

What can slopes be made of?

Three slope options are commonly used:

Plasterboard.
Plastic.

It is very difficult to achieve perfect evenness of the slope surface with plaster and putty. This is only possible for a professional. With your own hands, you often get a wavy surface, which can soon crack and fall off.

The installation of plastic slopes is usually carried out together with the installation of the window. The surface is smooth. However, plastic is a cheap material. It can get hot and smell bad. This type of decoration is more suitable for office and public spaces.

Drywall slopes in many ways are an ideal option for a house or apartment. The material is easy to process, environmentally friendly. The result is an attractive, smooth and even surface. You should take a closer look at this option if you have to build drywall slopes with your own hands.

Preparation of surfaces for installation

In repair, the first stage of work is important - the preparation of the foundation. Having made a mistake at the very beginning, an undesirable result will turn out in the end. For slopes, it is very important to prepare the surface, which will serve as the foundation for the entire future structure.

Cleaning the base for the installation of slopes. Any sharp object removes the remaining influx of mounting foam. If there are large chips, they should be covered with gypsum plaster or cement mixture. The surface is impregnated with antifungal primer - this will protect against unwanted processes.
Protection of polyurethane foam in the seams. All seams that have been sealed with foam must be plastered. To do this, use a gypsum mixture and a small spatula.
Drywall is afraid of moisture, so you should check all the junctions of the window with the window opening. It can blow through a small gap, as a result, condensate will form, which leads to the gradual destruction of the drywall sheet.
To obtain the ideal slope level, a special corner is screwed to the window frame around the entire perimeter. The sheet should be fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws. This trick will help to avoid a large loss of window frame area.

Important! To create slopes, green color with GKLV marking should be used.

Installation of plasterboard window slopes

The most important and responsible stage. The final result of all work depends on the quality of its execution.

The exact dimensions of the required sections are produced.
Now you need to correctly and accurately cut a solid drywall sheet into the right parts. To begin with, cut out the upper part of the slope. Mounting holes are drilled if necessary. The resulting strip is applied to the installation site, outlined with a pencil. Then it is set using the building level.
The remaining side and bottom parts are cut in the same way.

The sheet is fastened in two ways:

drywall is glued with a special mounting adhesive;
it is mounted on a frame made of galvanized profile.

Creating a slope by gluing

This method does not require a start profile. It is applicable when the surface is fairly even, but it is quite difficult to create a slope by pasting.

All details of the future slope are cut out.
The top is installed first. A special guide corner is screwed to it in advance, into which its upper part is inserted and glued. Precise installation will allow you not to make a mistake during the further installation of the side elements.
The remaining elements are glued.

In most cases, the adhesive is applied to the entire plane. Usually, the approximate drying time of a particular brand of mounting adhesive is indicated on the packaging. If there is a need to reduce the setting time, then the glue is smeared with strips. All work is controlled by the building level.

Installation of a slope on a frame from a profile

Attaching the slope to the frame allows you to level very curved and curved surfaces. The basis of the whole structure is the starting profile. The work algorithm is as follows:

Installation of guide profiles. The entire perimeter of the window frame is framed by a starting profile (UD). It is installed perpendicular to the floor. The profile should be fixed with self-tapping screws in increments of 50–60 cm.

If the frame is attached directly to the window frame, then a heat-insulating gasket is placed between it and the profile. It will help prevent freezing of the guides.

Guides (CD) are attached in a perpendicular direction to the starting profile. They are fixed with drywall screws 30–35 mm long.
The assembled structure of galvanized profiles is sheathed with drywall sheets. As a result, small gaps are formed between the slope and the wall or lintel. They are recommended to be filled with glue for drywall work.

Finishing the slope of drywall

As a result of the work carried out, a flat slope surface was obtained. But without finishing, it will look untidy. In 90% of cases, latex putty and water-based paint are used for cosmetic repairs.

All corners of the window opening are closed with a special perforated corner profile. It will protect them from chipping and loss of appearance as a result of erasing. The thickness of the profile is only 0.5–1 mm. It should be glued with glue on drywall.
The entire glued surface is thoroughly smeared to avoid the formation of voids, which can lead to subsequent deformation of the slope angle. The corner is strongly pressed into the glue, the excess is removed with a rag or spatula.

All corners and caps of twisted screws are carefully puttied. applied in two layers. It is important to let each layer dry for 3-4 hours.
When the putty dries, the slope surface must be sanded. You can use a grinder for this. If this was not at hand, then grinding is done with a putty mesh or sandpaper. Do not be too zealous, latex putty is easy to process and polish.
After grinding is completed, the slopes must be covered with deep penetration soil. It will saturate the entire surface and make it homogeneous. In addition, the primer reduces paint consumption and guarantees color uniformity over the entire area.
The last stage is the coloring of the finished slopes. It is recommended to use a water-based paint with a water-resistant effect. The reconciliation of this type of material will make it possible to carry out wet cleaning of the window.

The most common mistake is the gaps between the sheets of drywall at the junction. They appear from inaccurate measurements or errors in cutting. They are eliminated with liquid plastic, but the surface will no longer be completely monolithic - the joints will be noticeable.

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