Music stand made of wood with their own hands. The music stand is a handy music stand. Wire stand for phone or tablet
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For work on the road, a laptop is the perfect solution. But at home or in the office, it is much more convenient to use it by connecting a regular “large” keyboard. If you still raise the screen to eye level, then you can forget about the pain in the neck from the constantly crooked posture, and the eyes themselves do not get so tired when working.
To do this, a simple stand is made from improvised materials. It is compact, lightweight, easy to take apart and take with you. With a stand, the workplace is used more rationally - the laptop occupies a smaller area on the table due to the inclination, it is convenient to put keys, a phone and other small things under it.
Comfortable stationary workplace based on a laptop in 2 minutes
Laptops come in different sizes, so it's easier to make your own stand than to buy it, but before you make the final version, you need to practice on the "cats" - cardboard boxes. And after that, you can sculpt a stand from plywood, plastic, or any other sheet material of the desired color + stick applications, if there is such a need. And don't forget to stick felt pads under the plastic so you don't scratch the table.
The production technology of the stand is extremely simple.
Step 1
Draw or print out a pattern. It should be borne in mind that part 1 on the pattern is only half of the real part, so circle it again symmetrically to the right (as you can see on the pattern) vertical edge. Detail 2 is a profile view of the stand.
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Your favorite chef will appreciate the heavy tempered glass screen that is easy to clean and keeps the pages of the book unfolded. The bottom tray is 76 mm wide and you can insert any, even the thickest recipe book. When cooking is finished, the music stand folds up for compact storage.
Start with the back and base
1. Glue a 280 × 445 mm panel blank for the back from the 13 mm thick strips BUT. File the workpiece to the final dimensions indicated in the "List of Materials".
2. File along the bottom edge of the heel at a 20° bevel (Fig. 1). Mark the arc at the top edge of the backdrop using a flexible template or strip about 500 mm long. Then mark roundings with a radius of 10 mm at the upper corners. File the top of the heel along the contour and sand the edges smoothly.
3.
Set up the router (Fig. 1a) and make fillets with a radius of 6 mm along the top and side edges of the heel counter (Fig. 1).
4. Cut out the base blank AT. Make copies of the base templates and use spray adhesive to attach them to the ends of the workpiece. File the bevels along the edges in the sequence shown on the template. Set the templates and sand the base smoothly.
5. Cut out the end strips With and stick them together using double sided tape (flyers should be mirror copies of each other). Copy the end plate template and glue it to one side of the parts package. Cut out the rounds with a bandsaw, then file the other end with a 20° bevel. Drill holes with a diameter of 6 mm in the indicated places. Mill 6mm radius rounds along the outer edge of each end plate. Separate the letali and sand smooth.
6. Glue the end strips With to the base AT aligning the top and back edges. Secure the assembly with clamps.
7.
From a round birch dowel with a diameter of 6 mm, saw off four pieces 50 mm long. Drill 6x32mm holes through the holes in the C-slats (Fig. 1). Glue the dowels into the holes. When the glue dries, file off the protruding ends of the dowels and sand flush with the surface.
8. On the back side of the heel BUT mark the centers of the three holes for the screws securing the backdrop to the base B (Fig. 1 and 1b).
9. Cut out the scraps into a 19x21x380 mm lath to use as a drilling template. Attach the assembled base V/S clamps on a workbench. Position the back BUT, as indicated on figure. Using a template rail, drill holes with a diameter of 2.4 mm according to the marks made earlier (photo A). Remove the template rail, drill deeper pilot holes and countersink. Glue the back to the base and screw in the screws.
With the drill resting on the template rail, drill a hole in back A. Stop drilling when the countersink of the combination drill touches the rail.
Add rear support and glass holder
1. Cut out the slats D and secure them with double sided tape. Make a copy of the template and glue it to the front side of one of the blanks. Use a band saw to file the 13 mm roundings and sand smooth. Drill a 6mm diameter hole through both fins and then the mounting holes at the indicated locations. Separate the flyers and finish sanding them.
2. Cut out the rear support leg E. Make a copy of the leg template and attach it to the workpiece. File the bevel at a 20° angle at the bottom end. Then make a rounding at the top and sand. Drill a hole with a diameter of 6 mm.
3. Glue a 6×50 mm birch dowel into the leg hole, aligning it in the middle. When the glue dries, put on the slats D on dowel protrusions (Fig. 1). Pressing the slats firmly against the support leg, file off the protruding ends of the dowel and sand flush.
4. Mark the position of the anchor node D/E on the back of back A (Fig. 1 and 1b). Set the anchor assembly to the desired position. Through the mounting holes of the rails D drill pilot holes in the back. Remove the support knot, separate the lethals and set them aside.
5. Cut out the glass holder F. Cut out a 6x10 mm tongue along the top edge of the holder (Fig. 1). Mill rounds with a radius of 6 mm along all four edges. Finish sanding the part.
Drill holes with a diameter of 6 mm in the ends of the holder F, pressing it firmly against the edge of the base B.
6. Cut out two 6x38x76 mm spacers from the scraps. Position them as shown in photo B, install holder F between end strips With, pressing its back side against the top edge of the bevel on the base AT. Drill 6×33 mm holes through the holes in the end plates in the ends of the holder. Prepare two birch dowels 6x45 mm for attaching the holder.
Project Completion
1. Finish sanding all parts of the music rest. Apply two coats of a clear coat (we used a semi-gloss polyurethane varnish) to all parts, including the ends of both 45mm dowels. For intermediate sanding, use 220 grit sandpaper.
3. After carefully drying the varnish, connect the rails D with support leg E and attach the assembled unit with screws to the back BUT. Glue the rubber dampers to the bottom bevel of the support leg and the end rails C (Fig. 1).
4. Install the holder again F between end strips With using spacers. Insert dowels 45 mm long into the holes halfway. Apply glue to the protruding portion of each dowel, leaving the varnished ends intact, and push the dowels deeper, aligning their ends flush with the end strips.
5. Order a piece of tempered 6mm glass 235x375mm with rounded corners and polished edges from a glass shop (Fig. 1). Apply a thin bead of silicone adhesive sealant to the bottom of the tongue in the holder F not reaching the ends, and insert the glass. Lightly press the glass with clamps to the bottom of the tongue and allow the sealant to cure for 24 hours. Now you can go to the kitchen!
Templates
Remote controller
Stand for music on a long stand, the height of which can be changed depending on the height of the violinist, as well as the situation (violinists practice at home and play solo while standing, in ensembles and orchestras - sitting, while the notes should always be approximately at eye level). Musicians call this thing a remote control, shop assistants sometimes call it a music stand, in English it's a music stand.
The most convenient option for a violinist is a steel console on a telescopic stand. It's convenient enough to keep at home or take with you on the road (it makes sense to buy a case for it as well). When choosing, pay attention to the stability of the structure so that nothing moves before your eyes while you play. Another important detail is the presence of a kind of “wipers” on the remote control, with the help of which you will fix those pages of notes that strive to turn over.
Consoles are produced by different companies in different countries, the prices for them, of course, are also different. The most expensive consoles are made of precious wood, carved in the Baroque style.
For homework, such delights are not at all necessary. In addition, you can’t take such a massive thing on a trip. Therefore, as a basic option, it is better to choose something simple, folding and unfolding and at the same time stable, such as the classic Konig & Meyer model shown in the photo above (or other similar models from this or other companies). Here, if you click on the button further images and animations, there is a flash animation demonstrating how such a remote control is assembled and disassembled.
Telescopic lightweight structures or massive antique music stands are not all console options; sometimes there are also funny models for children so that they are not bored: for example, wooden "cartoon" remotes in the form of hares and snails. (By the way, the hare in the photo below has a funny expression, it seems rather skeptical :))
Every musician knows what a music stand is. This term is of Latin origin. It translates as "platform of boards." But today, under this name, we perceive a special stand designed for comfortable reading of musical notes.
The music stand is a fairly old invention, over two thousand years old. It was originally used by the Chinese. The music stand was used to support parchments and documents for comfortable reading, although this was not universal. European musicians from Germany and Switzerland at some point adapted music stands for musical purposes. Actually, they came to the conclusion that it is much more comfortable to keep the muses. instrument while reading sheet music. It happened in the distant fourteenth century. It was from this moment that music stands began to be associated exclusively with music. Despite such a long history, they have not changed dramatically.
Music stand can be of various shapes and made of various materials. The most popular music stands are metal. As a rule, they have a special folding mechanism, therefore, it is enough
easy to carry, which is very convenient, for example, when a young man is just learning music. The next type of music stand is a wooden music stand. It is stationary and does not fold. They are mainly used in concert halls and orchestras where you do not need to drag your instruments and things all the time.
Wooden music stands are mainly decorated with all kinds of musical symbols and carved patterns. They are chosen by lovers of exclusive handmade items.
Often you can see coasters in the form of symbols of musical instruments, for example, harps, etc.
In addition, there is also a built-in music stand. But it should rather be called a "stand". Such models are used on digital synthesizers, grand pianos, and some other instruments. They are installed directly on the frame of a musical instrument. Basically, these stands are equipped with a folding mechanism or simply pulled out of the tool immediately after use.
Music stand can be both desktop and floor. There is a special rack for floor stands. It is regulated by a special telescopic mechanism located vertically. In addition, the stands have an adjustable tilt angle for convenient reading of notes by people of different heights. But desktop models look like small inclined stands. They are installed on any type of surface, including tables. They are perfect for reading books and all kinds of documents. Although often the musicians themselves use such music stands for comfortable reading music, setting the stand, for example, on the piano.
In general, a music stand is any stand on which it is possible to place notes or papers for comfortable reading by a beginner or already a professional musician who loves his job.