Wall sanding with an eccentric sander. Sanding putty - a step-by-step description of the workflow to get the perfect result. Emery area when leveling walls by grinding

The grinding process causes discomfort for many, even experienced, specialists. After all, this is a monotonous, painstaking, noisy, but mandatory operation. The requirements for finishing works that have been developed to date are especially strict regarding the smoothness and evenness of the planes.

High-tech coatings with their thin layers will only emphasize the unevenness of the base. But even if thicker sheet materials are used, the sealing of the joints always ends with grinding. In order for the base to turn out to be perfectly even, the grinder for walls and ceilings must be matched exactly.

Grinding the ceiling and wall surfaces with a special tool can be done by both a professional builder and a home craftsman. Of all the variety of tools, each is the one that best meets the tasks and scope of work.

There are three types of grinders:

1. tape;
2. surface grinding;
3. eccentric.

Experienced craftsmen who specialize in grinding have all the listed grinders in their arsenal of tools. However, for homework, most of them are not needed.

Tape machines

The tool got its name due to the working element - an abrasive tape, the opposite ends of which are glued together, forming a ring. Such a grinder for walls and ceilings allows you to remove a layer of several millimeters. Also, the tool can easily make a rounding, remove old varnish, stains left from moisture contact with iron.

Such a wall grinder works with polymers, wood, metal and even mineral building materials. However, it has one advantage that easily turns into a disadvantage - high speed. Due to this feature, the surface to be treated may become scratched. Only another grinder for walls and ceilings can correct the situation.

Vibrating apparatus

A surface grinder or vibration machine for grinding walls and ceilings is a cross between the first and third types of tools. It is ideal for applications where zero curvature surfaces need to be finished before they are treated with paint or other finishes.

The device has a large working plane, which makes it possible to use it in a room with a large area. The vibration tool is quite popular, especially among home craftsmen.

There are several reasons for this:

• affordable cost;
• accessories are easy to purchase;
• the geometry of the sole opens up the possibility of processing corners of any complexity.

The working body of the device is a plate that performs reciprocating movements. In this case, the amplitude is insignificant. The engine installed in it has a power that ranges from 150-300 watts. Although there are models whose power reaches 600 watts.

A few more benefits:

1. lightness and compactness;
2. relatively low amplitude of the sole stroke, which allows for accurate, but effective grinding.

The sole of vibration machines can be of two options:

1. standard;
2. mini.

The first option is suitable for large rooms. However, if the area is small, it is better to give preference to mini-models.

The ideal sole is one that is made of an alloy of magnesium and aluminum. Cast options are also considered convenient to use.

A separate version of vibration machines are devices equipped with a platform that resembles an iron with its features. They differ in small sizes, but excellent "patency". These models are ideal for working with complex surfaces.

Orbiters

Models that are in demand for high quality processing. The sanded material is carefully polished, it does not leave scratches and other damage. Despite such delicacy, the performance of the tool is not inferior to vibration models.

Vibratory grinders for walls and ceilings are most often used by car painters and joiners. No one can compete with them in terms of processing volumetric, profile and curvilinear objects. However, due to the peculiarity of the structure, vibration devices cannot cope with corners, small recesses.

A grinder is a tool that allows you to solve a large number of tasks. From a variety of devices, it is easy to choose the right one, knowing the main characteristics of each of them.

The Wall and Ceiling Sander facilitates and speeds up the sanding operation. You can putty very carefully, but all the same, all kinds of defects will remain on the surface: stripes from the corners of the spatula and grains of sand, sagging, transitions between areas puttied at different times. After painting, all these defects will become especially noticeable.

Makita belt sander is suitable for rough processing of planes

How the tool works

The working “organ” of any grinder is a plane with fixed abrasive paper. Paper can be attached in two ways.

1. Clamp - stands on most household class models. The clip looks like a kind of latch with a spring. For models with a clip, you can independently make “clothes” from sandpaper and thus save on consumables.
2. "Velcro" - models with it are more expensive, but for them you do not have to cut the abrasive yourself.

All types of grinders are provided with dust extraction. It can be a vacuum cleaner or a dust collector. Many models have both a dust collector and an adapter for a vacuum cleaner. The ability to connect a vacuum cleaner is a very useful option, because it allows you to increase the time of work without emptying the tank, and this increases the speed of grinding.

Types of grinders

Tape

A belt sander can prepare the surface for further, finer sanding. It is unsuitable for already puttied surfaces, but it can be used to remove old paint from the walls and ceiling along with a layer of putty. Household ones are relatively cheap, but are designed only for short-term use. A professional belt sander can work in the most difficult conditions.

Orbital eccentric

Used for the finest work. The sole of the eccentric machine moves along a complex path, thanks to which it can leave behind an almost perfect surface.

Random Orbital Sanders Level Almost Perfectly

Flat vibrating

Some models of surface grinders reach the level of orbital grinders, but in general they work more roughly. But PShM is cheaper, as are consumables for them. The “clamp” mount exists precisely for this type of tool, and for LSHM and ESHM you have to purchase expensive branded Velcro tapes.

Ceiling grinding rules

You can start machine grinding the walls or ceiling when the putty is completely dry and hard. This happens no earlier than a day after applying the last layer.

Before starting work, it is necessary to inspect the walls and ceiling and look for bumps and protrusions. This operation is best done using side illumination with a flashlight or portable lamp. Irregularities will cast a shadow.

Another way is to put a long ruler against the wall and highlight it from the opposite side. Irregularities can be detected by rays of light penetrating into the gaps.

Connected to the Vario-Giraffe WST 700 VV Plus model, a construction vacuum cleaner will not allow the room to drown in dust

All detected defects are immediately marked with an ordinary pencil. Thus, a kind of “map” of the surface will be drawn up. If deep cavities are found, they will have to be additionally puttied.

The finishing layer of putty is very delicate, so when working with it, it is enough just to hold the tool without applying much effort to it. It is very important that the work surface is completely adjacent to the wall, and the emery is strictly parallel to the plane of the surface to be treated. In circular motions with uniform pressure, they drive along the marked places until they become even. If you press unevenly or allow the work surface to be skewed, then new stripes and bumps will appear.

Safety

Grinding is the most dusty operation in repair work, so during it it is imperative to protect your eyes and respiratory organs with a respirator and tight-fitting goggles. So that other tools and building materials are not covered with a layer of dust, it is better to take them out of the room in advance.

You need to take care of the safety of movement with a power tool in your hands. A cluttered or poorly lit room is dangerous in this sense, and working in it can lead to an accident.

Many professional models have an additional extension handle

Grinders, like any construction power tool that produces sparks, must not be operated in the presence of flammable dust, vapors or liquids. Before connecting to the network, the switch must be in the "off" position. You can not be distracted from the process, so children and pets must be removed from the premises in advance.

A separate issue is electrical safety. The plug must fit the outlet and must not be modified in any way. The original plugs serve as a guarantee of electrical safety. Adapters must not be used for grounded machines.

Important! Never operate a power tool with the cover removed.

In the event of the appearance of extraneous odors, sparks, strong noise, you must immediately turn off the tool and contact the service department.

Thematic video

In the video you can see how the Bosch PEX 300 grinder copes with the task.

A wall and ceiling grinder provides fast and high-quality results without significant physical effort, so in the case of a large amount of work, it makes sense to invest in its purchase

Sanding the walls after puttying allows you to create a perfectly smooth surface

The final stage of finishing is the most responsible. And if you do it yourself, everything needs to be done with high quality, in accordance with the technology developed for each type of work, since there will be no one to ask if the result is unsatisfactory.
One of the stages of preparing walls for painting or wallpapering is quite often overlooked by inexperienced finishers, namely their grinding after applying a putty layer. In this article, we will talk about the need for grinding and the tools with which it is performed.

If you are doing repairs not in the pantry, but in the living room, and you want the wallpaper to easily join, not wrinkle or peel off, and the paint lay perfectly on the walls, then it is necessary to sand the puttied walls. And not once, but after each applied layer. And even if the surface seems flat and smooth.
An exception can only be made for walls leveled by an excellent craftsman who did not leave marks on them from the movement of the spatula and accidental splashes. And only if you are going to paste over them with thick vinyl or non-woven wallpaper (see Wallpaper decoration: choose the right one), which will hide minor flaws.
But the paint will not only not hide them, but also emphasize, reveal. Especially glossy. Therefore, for painting, the walls are polished completely and very carefully, and for wallpaper, you can get by with local work - grinding only those areas where defects have been identified.

Advice. To detect all the sags, pits and other irregularities, direct a beam of bright light at a small angle on the wall from only one side. You will immediately see them in the cast shadows.

How and what to grind

Let's start with the fact that grinding is a rather dusty process, so for work you should get a respirator or at least a medical mask, gloves, goggles. This is required by the safety instructions, as fine dust can damage the mucous membranes, settle in the lungs or cause allergies.
The room in which the grinding will be performed must be isolated from other rooms by tightly closing the doors or, if there are none, by hanging the openings with a dense damp cloth.

Polishing or sanding walls is the last step in preparing them for wallpapering or painting. The procedure is necessary, because even after applying the finishing putty layer, there are still small tubercles, irregularities that appear due to the sharp ends of the spatula.

In the photo - grinding surfaces by hand

Below we will consider in detail the manual method of grinding walls, which is often used in home construction, and also touch on mechanized surface treatment.

Tip: do not use a primer after puttying, as grinding is done on putty.

What is used for sanding walls

Materials and tools include:

• manual skinner, which means a grinding standard bar;
• special grinding sponge with cut corners, used for hard-to-reach points;
• sanding net or sandpaper;

• a portable lamp or spotlight, so you need good lighting;
• high table or stepladder;
• a small spatula will not interfere;
• mask or respirator for respiratory protection, headgear and goggles.

Do not neglect eye and breathing protection, as the sanding process creates a cloud of fine plaster. Below will be described how to grind the putty on the walls and how best to do it.

Emery grit

Grinding can be done with a special sanding mesh having a different cell area, or with simple sandpaper. The main advantage of the first is that it is not clogged with dust and debris from putty ().

Emery is also a good choice for do-it-yourself sanding, and its price is somewhat less. However, on large areas it will have to be changed frequently, especially if it is fine-grained.

To determine its granularity, there are special numbers:

• macro-sizes - No. 20-220;
• microsizes - No. 240-2500.

Everything is simple here, if the number is larger, then the skin is smaller, the smaller number is coarser. For homework, Nos. 60-360 are most often used, less often a little smaller.

Sanding after sanding

The main rule when repairing a house is that sanding the walls after puttying is first carried out with coarse-grained sandpaper, and the last stage with fine-grained sandpaper. In this situation, after the first layer of putty, use numbers 120-180. It is possible and 80-100, but it will already be “rough” enough, so we will not advise.

When you cover the wall with a second layer of finishing putty, use emery with numbers 220-280 and below. In general, the choice of sandpaper and sanding mesh depends on the base coat. How to sand the walls after putty correctly will be described below.

Sanding the walls

Before starting the process:

• wait for the previous layer of putty to dry;
• put on a mask, goggles and headgear;
• prepare good lighting. Direct the light on the surface to be treated from one side and at an angle;
• remove too large bumps and protrusions with a small spatula.

The instruction will tell in detail about the manual process of grinding walls:

1. Choose the right sanding grit. Small numbers for starting grinding.

Tip: Purchase several types of emery with different grit in the supply store, for example, Nos. 100-180 and Nos. 220-360.

If there is any doubt about the correct choice of the product, go through a small area with it - there will be scratches, then it is better to take a larger skin number. Otherwise, the paint will not be able to cover such defects.

When preparing a wall for wallpapering, you don’t have to worry about minor flaws and scratches. They will be hidden by subsequent finishing. Grinding under the wallpaper is done much faster, since coarse emery can be used in this situation.

1. Attach the selected coarse sandpaper to the sanding beam with clamps and start polishing the surface. This should be done from top to bottom in small sections along the base surface, about 1-1.5 m.

Sand the surface with uniform circular movements of the hand. The scheme is also allowed - "left-right" and "up-down".

While doing this, press the sanding bar against the wall with little effort. Also, do not stay in one area for a long time, as this may lead to surface defects.

Work on the intended area, make sure it is smooth - move on. When you notice very large pits on the surface of the wall, do not touch them with sandpaper, you will putty later.

1. Move on to hard to reach places and corners after you finish polishing the main part of the surface. Use special grinding sponges with beveled corners for this. It is worth buying them in advance at the construction market or in the store.

Tip: do not sand the corners indoors with a skinner, as there is a chance that they will have to be refilled.

You can replace a special corner sponge using the “grandfather’s tool”: take a small sheet of emery, roll it up and gently clean the place, as if with a rag.

1. Remove debris, dust, do wet cleaning. Check for cracks and other visible defects on the surface. Apply the last finishing coat of putty.

1. Start fine-grained final sanding. Here you should use an abrasive with large numbers. The working technology of the process does not differ from the starting grinding. The only thing to do is to move the light as close to the wall surface as possible, and the movement of the hands should not be so sweeping. This stage is the last in the grinding process.

1. Clean again, prime the walls before applying the final finish.

Mechanized surface grinding

As we already know, it is possible to start grinding work on the ceiling and walls only a day after the last layer of putty has been applied. If the temperature indoors or outdoors is appropriate, during this time it should dry completely and become solid ().

Above, we considered the manual method of grinding surfaces, which is most often used at home. However, if you have an electric grinder, the process can be greatly accelerated. In addition, the surface quality will also be greatly improved.

That is why master finishers very often use the mechanized method of surface preparation after puttying. The device is a plate made of metal or wood, on which sandpaper is attached with clamps. Handles are provided for ease of use.

The machine is much more convenient to work with than with a piece of emery. Since the finishing putty is a rather soft material and does not require significant effort when grinding, hands get tired more from moving the device.

Grinding machines are divided into three types:

• tape;
• flat vibration;
• orbital eccentric.

The former have high productivity and it is advisable to use them when working with a thick layer of material. For finishing grinding, if you want to remove a thin layer of putty, they are not suitable.

The latter do not allow grinding work in the corners. Medium - a universal type of device that can be used in various situations.

The process of grinding with its help is not difficult. It is necessary to process the selected area with a little pressure in a circular motion so that it becomes even. If you could not get the desired result the first time, repeat the grinding.

Conclusion

Finishing grinding of walls and ceilings makes it possible to prepare their surface for final finishing with wallpaper, paint and other materials. For this, a manual and mechanized method is used, the choice depends on the strength of the putty layer, the type of defects and the processing area ().

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

The procedure for leveling the walls involves a rough finish (plaster) and a thin one (putty). When the surface is plastered, even with the most painstaking application, there are always small bumps and sagging on it, which are formed from the sharp corners of the spatula. These are the consequences of the acceleration of the putty mass or the joining of two treated sections of the wall. Therefore, masters prefer to use a large spatula to minimize the number of problem areas. And be sure before polishing, the wall should dry well for at least a day. Hence the conclusion: the better the work is done, the less hassle the finishing will bring.

Sanding the walls after puttying - this is a mechanical work that is done on a dry, clean putty, without any primer!

Depending on the area and type of surface, a rational choice of how to sand the walls after puttying will help to significantly save time and effort:

• if the surface is small, use dry sanding with a bar;
• for large areas it is better to use an electric surface grinder, but keep in mind the nuance that you will have to manually bring the corners to mind;
• if the plane is both large and complex, with curves and protrusions, an eccentric sander with decent power will work well.

What should be the grinding bar? In addition to the base with a handle and clamps, it is necessary to stock up on strips of sandpaper of the desired grit or sanding mesh, as the abrasive wears out constantly and needs to be replaced. There is no universal advice on what to use: everyone selects it at their own discretion. Paper or mesh is fixed in a beam, where it is held by special clamps.

The "plus" of the sanding mesh is that its pores are not clogged with putty dust. Due to the holes, dust does not linger in it and falls off. True, it is somewhat more expensive than paper. The mesh should be replaced when the canvas is worn out - it's easy to see or feel that the work is not going efficiently. It is sold already cut to the dimensions of the bars, so when buying, you should know what tool you are using.

Sandpaper changes much more often than mesh, so in large quantities it will also pull a decent amount. It is sold in various configurations: rolls, sheets, etc. For economical consumption, consider how it will be more profitable for you to cut it, given the size of your bar. You can buy already cut pieces, but it is unprofitable. When you're cutting mesh or paper, don't forget about the allowances on the bar for the clips!

Correctly recommending the grain size is difficult, it is easier to determine this empirically. Sample 60, 80, 90, 100 grit pieces and try them on the wall. The smaller the number, the coarser the sandpaper, and if the fraction is too small, it will instantly go out of order.

Depending on the subsequent processing, the smoothness of the wall may be different. If it is painted, then it will have to be polished twice, first with coarser sandpaper, say 60, which will remove obvious lumps from the surface, and then with paper or mesh with a finer coating, 100-120, to give perfect smoothness. If wallpaper will be glued to the wall, one coarser sanding will be enough.

Of course, having a grinder, polishing the walls is much faster and easier. It is able to provide an ideal surface quality and, most importantly, draws in dust. Many models have a special ergonomic design of the holders that do not tire your hands, and some grinders telescopically retract and allow you to work while standing on the floor, on a remote section of the wall or ceiling.

homemade tool

It is worth paying your attention to how to skin in hard-to-reach places: corners, joints, niches. With the help of a simple device, you will facilitate this part of the work for yourself.

Take a piece of any plastic, for example, an L-shaped profile and cut it so as to get an even strip of plastic about 7 cm wide. On the reverse side, glue sandpaper onto double-sided tape and cut a strip of plastic into pieces of 17-20 cm. Cut the corners so that the grater resembles the shape of a pencil. You can even combine different grits on the same surface of your mini grater.

Now you have a handy tool that you can use in hard to reach places. Work with a corner, and as it wears, cut it off.

Dust protection

Remember that sanding is a dusty job and small particles will penetrate even through the cracks of the doors and settle throughout the apartment. Therefore, before starting, it is better to spend a little more time preparing than later on painfully getting rid of all-penetrating dust.

Stock up on special furniture protection film (it costs a penny), and cover with it everything that cannot be taken out of the room, carefully securing it with tape. We cover plastic windows with a film and seal them around the perimeter. We hang one wet towel on top of the door, plug the vertical gap with the second, and put the third under the threshold.

Be sure to work in a respiratory mask and goggles, and do not forget to shake out clothes before washing.

How to sand the walls after putty

When the tool is ready, dust measures have been taken, you can get to work. Lighting is an important part of it: turn on a spotlight or flashlight next to the wall and you will clearly see all the bumps. At this stage, it is useful to mark the work plan on the surface: bumps, depressions and other defects will give a shadow from the light - circle them with a pencil. When you get to work, this will serve as a hint.

We start grinding from the corner and go down in a strip about a meter wide. Then we rise again and go down. We grind, slightly pressing on the putty, with spiral movements.

In the process, we look at the surface: if it is already smooth enough, do not go in cycles and move on: excessive zeal can lead to holes in the putty.

If you started sanding with one grid or paper number, finish with it.

If suddenly you notice a small depression, a flaw, you don’t need to rub around it, trying to bring it level - here you also risk erasing the putty. Leave it alone, you will return to it when the sanding is finished and the wall is primed. With a rubber spatula, carefully, you will putty this area flush with the wall.

How to check if the surface is perfect when the work is finished? The first way is to direct the light from the lamp close along the wall, the bright light will clearly highlight all the flaws. The second way is to attach the usual building level to the plane and move it, observing if cracks form. If you notice gaps, it means that a little more putty was put somewhere. We correct the defect with a grinding bar.

However, even at this stage it cannot be said that the work on preparing the wall is over. After grinding, all of it remains covered with a layer of fine dust, which can greatly harm when wallpapering or painting. There are two ways to remove dust:

• with an old vacuum cleaner, which is not a pity, we vacuum the wall;
• brush off excess dust with a soft bristle brush, then wring out the rag well and wipe the wall. It is very important that the rag is just slightly damp, as gypsum-based putty is afraid of water and is washed out. If you wipe the wall in several steps, then wait until it dries after the first time.

Speaking about how to wipe the walls after putty, it would not be superfluous to recall: putty is a very soft, pliable material, and therefore, working with it can be made enjoyable by taking into account the useful tips of our article.