How to finish the walls with drywall with your own hands. Finishing walls with drywall - the nuances of building a frame and fixing sheets. What can be mounted on a plasterboard wall

"Dry" wall cladding with drywall is as ubiquitous as wallpapering. Indeed, at such a rate of execution and quality of alignment, the assembly of the supporting base cannot be without difficulties. And they are, so today we will reveal the secrets of assembling wall profile frames.

Consideration of the work of the wall frame

Before proceeding with the set of substructures for wall cladding, you should make sure that the idea of the functions of the profile frame is complete and correct. It is assembled from PN and PS profiles of different sizes. For false walls without a high operational load with one layer of sheathing, a 60 mm set is used, consisting of CD-60 and UD-27 profiles as rack and guiding elements, respectively. Such a wall is self-supporting, but nothing more: no attachments such as cabinets, shelves or a TV should be attached directly to the frame or sheets.

False walls with internal insulation, two- and three-layer sheathing with sheets and an additional bearing function are assembled on a frame from the same profile sizes that are used in the construction of plasterboard partitions. These are sets PS+PN 50 and 100 mm. We summarize: the width of the profile used determines the mass of the wall and the cladding in particular, sets the required load-bearing capacity.

Another important parameter of the wall frame is its frequency, expressed by the pitch of the rack elements. The more often they are installed, the greater the rigidity of the wall and the higher its resistance to pressure and impact. For a single-layer sheathing, a 40 cm spacing is used because one sheet can be pressed through relatively easily. The two-layer sheathing is denser, so the pitch of the racks can be increased up to 60 cm.

It is not entirely clear why to reduce the number of attachment points for a two-layer skin, because it has more weight compared to a single-layer skin, which means it needs a greater load-bearing capacity of the frame. However, the strength of profiles of the 50th size and larger (and others are not used in multilayer sheathing) is quite enough to hold up to four layers of drywall.

If you do not understand the point of covering with several layers of plasterboard, most likely you are not aware of the ratio of the characteristics of the walls. An additional layer doubles the insulation from structural and airborne noise, allows you to lay up to 50 mm of additional insulation and significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of the skin itself. The combination of these factors makes multi-layer sheathing a very popular solution, which has been adopted by almost all conscientious contractors.

Installation of guide profiles

The assembly of the frame of any wall begins with the definition of its main plane. If the wall has niches, the one with the largest area is taken as the main plane. This plane is quite easily projected onto the floor and ceiling by two base lines, from which all further readings will be taken. Once these lines have been defined and marked out, they should be checked for consistency with the overall geometry of the room and corrected if necessary. For convenience, you can also make a correction for the thickness of the skin layer and the preferred finishing material, so that the markings accurately indicate the installation line of the guide profiles.

They, as the name implies, determine the direction of the rack elements. To fasten the guide profiles to concrete bases, plastic dowels for fast installation with a pitch of 35-40 mm or steel dowel-nails for direct installation are used. Fastening to wooden structures, shell rock or foam concrete is carried out with hardened self-tapping screws 50-120 mm long, depending on the density of the material. The fastening step can also be reduced to increase the rigidity of the fixation.

To compensate for structural noise, thermal expansion and shifts during the settlement of the building, a layer of damping material is laid between the guide profile and the bearing surface. Special self-adhesive tapes made of medium-density polyethylene foam can be relatively easily replaced with self-cut strips of insulation from the same material and glued to ordinary PVA.

Structural insulation from the floor is carried out in one layer, and from the ceiling - in two or three. In total, there should be approximately one layer for every meter of wall height. At the same time, the fastening of the ceiling profile is not rigid, so that the frame guide can “walk” in height in the range of 2-3 mm.

Bypass openings and corners

The plane of the frame can be disturbed by niches, window and door openings. In these places, the linear configuration of the guides changes to correctly bypass the adjunctions.

In door openings, the guide profile is raised to form a rectangular opening in the skin. Its dimensions either exactly correspond to the installation dimensions of the door block, or determine the dawn of the slopes.

Window openings can be bypassed in two ways. The opening "to the floor" is made in the same way as the door, however, it is preferable to install window sills in parallel with the assembly of the frame. This is done to break the vertical guides. Thus, the lower part of the niche is made with strictly rectangular edges, and the upper one has the necessary dawn for the installation of slopes (2-3 °).

Simple closed niches are more convenient to assemble after mounting the main plane of the frame. Usually, rack elements are simply skipped at their locations, however, if the niche continues to the floor, the guide profile on it must be broken and moved to the wall to the depth of the niche. In this case, additional external and internal corners can be formed, at which the profiles are tightly adjacent to each other with the formation of a common gap (the edges are cut at 45 °). The reason for this is as follows: it is impossible to know in advance exactly how the frame of the relief wall will be implemented, which means that the rack elements must be able to be installed in all possible positions.

Assembly of the supporting structure of the wall

Rack profiles are inserted into the cavity of the guide profiles, the length of which is 15 mm less than the distance between the internal shelves of the guide system at each specific installation location. Such a gap is necessary to more easily insert the rack into the guides at an angle and to compensate for linear deformations.

For maximum performance, it is important to follow a specific installation sequence. First, all rack profiles are installed without any fastening. Next, direct suspensions are fixed to the wall with a step recommended for the type of wall (30-60 cm), attachment points are outlined, the profile is shifted to the side and the wall is conveniently drilled with a perforator.

The racks return to their previous position according to the risks prudently marked on the guide profile. The profile is fastened with two notches or self-tapping screws in the lower part, while on top it must retain full mobility. To ensure that the racks exactly correspond to the installation step of the sheets and do not tilt, jumpers are pre-installed for joining the vertical elements of the same row. If the CD-60 kit is used in the frame, the jumpers are cut to a length of 340 mm, inserted between the posts and attached to them with halves of an ordinary crab. In this case, it is enough to install the first, basic rack vertically, the rest need only a cursory control.

If the frame is assembled with a size of 50 or 100 mm, the jumpers are made with a guide profile. Its edges are cut along the outer shelves and bent in different directions. The workpiece is inserted with one bent edge into the cavity of the rack, the other edge is superimposed on the adjacent rack. If the cladding posts are oriented with the central shelf to the cladding, which occurs in non-insulated walls, the edges of the jumpers must be bent in one direction so that the side edges are flat. The jumper is simply inserted between the shelves and fastened to them along adjacent flat surfaces.

Please note that cutting the jumpers with “tongues” is categorically not recommended: self-tapping screws are normally pressed into drywall, but the plate, especially from the central shelf of the rack profile, will certainly form a bump on the surface of the skin.

To bypass vertical corners, a number of simple rules apply:

External corners with a standard size of 50 mm and above are assembled from two guide profiles nested towards each other.
The same corners from CD-60 are formed sequentially: first one side is sheathed, then a profile is attached to the sheet outlet and the adjacent sheet is sewn on.
All internal corners are also assembled sequentially: first, the wall is sewn up, then the second corner insert is inserted and fastened, and the adjacent wall is sewn up.

Additional frame fastening and assembly completion

At the end of the installation, careful alignment of the plane of the rack profiles is to be done. Often, an additional rail (or a pair of such) is used for this, with which the racks are twisted together to bring them into a common plane. The rail is telescopic and consists of two guide profiles nested in each other.

After a temporary connection, the edges of the straight hangers are bent, attached to the posts and folded back, after which the additional rails are removed. Sections of the frame adjacent to niches and openings also need to be strengthened. In these places, horizontal crossbars are added at intervals of half a meter to prevent punching through areas potentially subject to destruction.

A lot has been said and written about how to sheathe the walls of the GKL with your own hands. Consider the most important points of this process in order to avoid mistakes and end up with a perfectly smooth and high-quality surface. Strictly following all the recommendations, you will reduce the risk of shortcomings in the work to zero.

Tools and materials for plasterboard wall cladding

To complete the work on wall cladding with drywall sheets, you will need:

1. Any drywall sheets - depending on the purpose of the room. That is, ordinary, moisture resistant, fire resistant, laminated or purple.
2. Metal profile or wooden bars with a section of 30x30 or 40x40 mm.
3. "Crabs", spacer dowels and special suspensions.
4. Small grinder, metal shears, impact drill, screwdriver.
5. Drywall screws.
6. A simple pencil or marker, a construction knife, a tape measure, a level, a plumb line;
7. Reinforcing tape, putty and a set of spatulas.

Choosing the Right Drywall Mounting Method

There are two types of plasterboard wall cladding - frameless and frame. In the first case, the GKL is attached to the walls with a special glue. However, this mounting method has some limitations.

Firstly, the height of the walls should not exceed the height of the drywall sheet. Otherwise, you will not achieve even horizontal mates.
Secondly, the initial state of the walls should be fairly even, carefully prepared.

GKL wall cladding using the frame method is more practical and popular. This is done relatively quickly and easily. Laying GKL on a frame base allows you to sheathe any walls, regardless of their condition and size. Under the sheets of drywall, you can hide all kinds of communications, which will make the appearance of the room more attractive.

GKL are attached to a wooden frame or to a frame made of a metal profile. The profile is the best option for making a frame base. Its installation should be taken carefully, the result of your work will depend on the quality of the frame.

Plasterboard wall sheathing - video lesson

GKL fastening technology

1. Using a level on the ceiling and floor, the places where horizontal guide profiles will be installed are marked. The pieces of the profile required in length are cut off with a grinder or scissors for metal and fastened at the marked points with dowel-nails. A full profile requires at least six holes, they can be drilled directly through the metal with a jackhammer or a powerful impact drill. When drilling, wear protective goggles to protect your eyes from dust and debris. Particular attention should be paid to the accuracy of the markup. This is done with the utmost care using a plumb line or level.

2. The next stage of work is the installation of central rack profiles. In order to make the entire structure reliable, the distance between them is 40-50 cm. The profile is mounted to the walls using metal suspension supports. The optimal step between the supports is 60 cm.

Be sure to consider in advance whether you will hang heavy objects on the wall. If you plan to have shelves, cabinets or plasma TVs on the walls, then you need to take care of additional amplifiers. To do this, a solid wooden block is inserted inside the transverse profile.

3. After the process of creating the frame is completed, if necessary, you can insulate the space with a special heat-insulating material. This is especially true if the outer walls are sheathed with drywall.

4. GKL is easily and simply cut with an ordinary clerical knife. You just need to apply the desired dimensions to the sheet, then, using a building level or a metal ruler, cut through the cardboard with a knife. Let a few millimeters of plaster fall under the blade - this will facilitate the process. We put the GKL on the table with the whole side and carefully break the sheet along the notch line. As a result, the two pieces of drywall are held only by a layer of cardboard, which is also cut with a knife. The option of cutting GKL with a hacksaw is also possible, but it is more laborious and dusty.

5. It is better to fix drywall sheets together. Still, the dimensions of the material are impressive, and it will not be easy for one person to hold the sheet and cope with high-quality installation.

It should be remembered that the sheet should not rest against the floor or ceiling, so cut it 1.5-2 cm shorter than the required size.

6. Install the gypsum board in place and fasten it with screws to the metal profile. The optimal step is 25 cm, the distance from the edge of the plasterboard is at least 1 cm. Screw the screws carefully and carefully! A self-tapping screw that is too recessed can pierce through a sheet of drywall, which means that you will have to add another one in another place. But, protruding above the drywall surface, an “under-twisted” self-tapping screw is also not very good. When installing the GKL, it is desirable to leave a small gap between the sheets, approximately 3-5 mm.

Final works

After the main and most labor-intensive work on plasterboard wall cladding is completed, you can proceed to the next step - sealing the seams between the plasterboard. To do this, use a special putty on drywall, a spatula, reinforcing tape and a small trowel.

Approach this procedure thoroughly! Seams must be sealed with high quality and evenly. If you want to get a perfect surface as a result, then you should not neglect all the rules and recommendations of specialists.

A layer of putty is applied to the joints between the sheets, on which, lightly pressing, the tape is laid. Then another layer is applied on top, and carefully leveled with a spatula. After the putty is completely dry, the seams must be well sanded with fine emery cloth or a special grater.

Not only seams, joints and fastening points with self-tapping screws are puttied. It is necessary to go through the entire surface of the GKL with a finish!

Now you can start finishing finishing work, the options for which are completely your choice.

As you can see, plasterboard wall cladding is a fairly simple and budget option for creating a perfectly flat surface. With the help of GKL and profiles of various types, you can create unique design projects for premises. You can change the usual shapes and sizes of rooms in your apartment or country house beyond recognition. It all depends on your imagination and patience.

Following all the above rules, in the end you will definitely be satisfied with the result of the work performed. It is even more pleasant when it is made with your own hands.

Facing the wall with drywall is perhaps the second option after plaster. It is indispensable for some work on leveling walls and hiding communications.
Regardless of whether the plasterboard lining of wooden walls or consisting of any other material is done, it is carried out according to certain rules and according to technology. In this article, we will tell you how to clad walls with drywall according to the correct technology.
Before starting work, you should find out how this finish differs from other types. It is likely that you will change your mind after reading it.

Plasterboard wall cladding has its pros and cons. Before buying the material, you should familiarize yourself with them.
So:

The internal lining of the walls with drywall perfectly aligns the base plane. Moreover, minimal surface preparation is required;
You can completely hide all communications. If they are placed in inconvenient places, then you can make additional boxes from this material and arrange them for interior items.
This you can see in the photo and video;
If you need to level out not strong irregularities, you can make drywall wall cladding with glue. Although even walls are quite rare among us, it can be like that;
Wall cladding with drywall allows you to immediately carry out and insulate the walls. And also make additional soundproofing;
All work is carried out with environmentally friendly materials that will not harm your health;
It is fashionable to do the installation of drywall completely with your own hands, and without resorting to outside help. This will save you a lot of money;
The price of the material is not high, it is much lower than many materials and almost anyone can afford it.

Attention: Of course, all this can be done, but for a start it is worth choosing the right drywall, which is divided into several types. And they are selected depending on the type of room.

Choosing drywall

The lining of wooden walls with drywall or others is done, this is not particularly important. You must first choose the material that suits your room.
It is divided into several types:

GKL, lining the inner wall with drywall of this type is most common in everyday life. They can decorate rooms of any type.
It should only be taken into account that its installation is possible in a building with constant heating and without high humidity. It has a gray color and blue markings;
GKLO, this material is already slightly different from the previous one, it is fire resistant and withstands elevated temperatures. However, it is not suitable for use in a humid environment.
It is made in blue and red marking is applied;
GKLV, this material is moisture resistant and can be perfectly used in the bathroom. It's just not for the sauna.
Its good in moderation and it does not tolerate direct contact with water. And this should be taken into account. It has a green color and has a blue marking;
GKLVO, plasterboard lining of internal walls with such material is not so common. Its price is higher than the previous options.
It's just universal. Resists wet environments and elevated temperatures. Has green color and red marking.

We make the interior decoration of the walls with drywall

Facing the internal walls with drywall is done entirely by one's own hands and without resorting to outside help. To do this, you do not need to specially study, you just need to be able to use a tool that is available in almost any household.
All work is divided into several stages, which should be discussed in more detail.

Surface preparation and marking

Wall cladding with drywall begins with this work. She will be the key to success.
Remember, almost everything is important here. Nothing should be missed.
So:

First you need to remove all the previous coating. To do this, use a metal brush;
We inspect the surface. We are not interested in cracks and small irregularities.
We look where there are peeling plaster. If this is the case, then it should be removed with a chisel and hammer;
After that, we need to treat the surface with antiseptics. They are on free sale.
To do this, use a brush or spray gun;

Attention: Do the processing without fail. Even if there is no manifestation of the fungus.
It is even worth doing as a preventive measure. Otherwise, if the disease begins to manifest itself after the installation of the cladding, then you will have to remove the entire coating;

After processing, we wait for complete drying and apply a primer to the surface. To do this, use a brush or spray gun. We are waiting for complete drying;
Now we need to apply the correct markup and indicate the level of fastening of the sheets. To do this, we use a plumb line.
We look at what height the sheets should be located. We make a mark on the ceiling and floor. Or two opposite walls;

Drywall firmly occupies the position of one of the most popular building and finishing materials, and this is easily explained by its many advantages. These can be safely attributed to its environmental friendliness, ease of installation, the ability to use in a variety of rooms, a relatively small mass and generally available cost.

Plasterboard sheets are used for leveling walls and for, moreover, working with them is available not only to an experienced builder, but also to a novice master. Finishing walls with drywall without a frame and a profile is possible on different adhesive compositions and on surfaces built from various materials. The advantages of such fastening in comparison with the frame method are that the reduction in the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is not so noticeable, a decent amount is saved on the elements of the crate, and the installation work itself takes place quite quickly and can be done on its own.

The main methods of installing drywall on a wall surface

To appreciate the advantage of frameless installation of drywall, you can briefly consider both existing methods by comparing them.

In fairness, it should be noted that sometimes when installing drywall, it is impossible to do without installing a frame, so this case is also worth mentioning when considering how to install the material.

So, there are two main technologies for fixing drywall sheets to the wall in order to level it:

Installation of sheets using self-tapping screws on a frame made of a metal profile or a wooden beam. This method is chosen in cases where the wall requires additional thermal or sound insulation, and the insulation material is installed precisely in the frame structure, or if the wall has very large distortions that are difficult to level with plaster layers.
Fixing sheets on the wall with self-tapping screws and mounting foam or on a gypsum-based adhesive. Self-tapping screws and foam for fixing drywall are used if it is necessary to sheathe not only a wooden wall, but also surfaces derived from other materials that require correction. Adhesive gypsum composition is more often used for leveling a concrete or brick wall. However, it should be noted right away that the frameless method of fixing drywall should be used only when the walls have a height not exceeding 3000 mm.

In this publication, the nuances of only frameless drywall fastening will be considered.

Necessary materials and tools

Set of tools

To level the walls with drywall using one of the adhesives, you will need much fewer tools than if a frame was attached to the wall. The list of everything you need consists of the following items:

A plumb line, a building level and a rule, preferably 1500 mm long - to control the evenness of the original wall and the created vertical plane.
Electric jigsaw or sharp clerical knife - for cutting drywall.
Rulers of different lengths, a square, a tape measure and a simple pencil - for marking.
A wide, medium and narrow spatula, and possibly a trowel (trowel) - for applying and distributing the solution.
Construction grater - for processing puttied surfaces.
Roller and brush - for treating walls with a primer.
Rubber mallet - for adjusting drywall sheets glued to the wall.
Electric drill and mixer nozzle - for mixing the solution.
In some cases, it will be required - for additional fixation with self-tapping screws.

Drywall prices

drywall

Necessary materials

Now it is necessary to consider the materials that will be required to prepare the surface of the walls and for the high-quality installation of drywall:

Priming solution with antiseptic additives.
Gypsum-based putty mixture, base and finish.
Dry mortar - drywall adhesive, or mounting foam.
Serpyanka mesh tape - for sealing joints between sheets.
Long self-tapping screws may be required to level the wall by adjusting drywall sheets. The size of the fasteners will depend on the evenness of the surface, taking into account the fact that they must be recessed into the wall by 50 ÷ 60 mm.
One of the alignment technologies will require pieces of foam rubber - this will be discussed in due time.

About some materials - a little more.

Drywall

The Knauf company produces not only a variety of building and finishing mixtures, but also plasterboard sheets for various purposes - this is a simple, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant and moisture-resistant finishing material:

Ordinary drywall (gypsum plasterboard or, according to Knauf's proprietary classification - GSP-A) is used for rooms with normal humidity.
Moisture-resistant sheets (GKLV or GSP-N2) can be used to level walls in bathrooms or bathrooms. After processing such a surface, ceramic tiles will perfectly lie on it.
Fire-resistant sheets (GKLO or GSP-DF) are used for finishing walls around the fireplace, stoves, chimneys.
Fire and moisture resistant drywall (GKLVO or GSP-DFH2) is well suited for wall decoration in boiler rooms of private houses, in attic and attic rooms.

Here you can also briefly talk about, which does not require much effort, experience and special tools - it is enough to have an ordinary sharp clerical knife on hand. The cutting process takes place in the following order:

The sheet is placed on a solid base - it can be a large table, a floor or several stools placed side by side at some distance from each other.
Then, using a tape measure or ruler, the sheet is marked out, the necessary lines are drawn with a simple pencil.
The next step along the drawn line, also along the ruler, is carried out with a knife, which should cut the top layer of cardboard.
The sheet is shifted to the edge of a hard surface, and placed on it along the notch line.
Then, on the edge of the drywall, which extends beyond the base, pressure is applied, which will cause the sheet to break along the cut line.
The last step is cutting the cardboard on the other side of the sheet.

Starting any repair and finishing work in an apartment or house, you need to choose in advance what material will be used. Many choose plasterboard wall cladding - a fairly simple procedure that you can do yourself. But, if you want to create some kind of decorative element, composition, you will have to try hard. Only then will it turn out exactly what was intended. Therefore, working with GCR boards is not always as easy as it might seem.

Features and benefits of plasterboard walls

Drywall is considered a universal material, it can be mounted on almost any type of surface - brick, concrete, block, wood. For proper installation, use various options:

erection of a metal and wooden frame;
fixing gypsum boards directly to the wall.

Installation of drywall sheets without crates

Unlike other materials, drywall sheathing of various surfaces can have many advantages:

Work with dry plaster (another name for drywall) allows you to finish the walls quickly enough. And also there is no need to use various solutions that require certain conditions.
The erected structure from GKL fits into any design ideas. You should not think that with the help of this material only flat areas are created - you can successfully make various curvilinear and decorative elements.
Drywall has excellent technical characteristics. But it is very afraid of high humidity, so it is better to use it in combination with waterproofing materials.
It is very convenient that the whole structure can be dismantled very quickly. At the same time, the use of a metal frame gives very good rigidity and does not collapse over time.
It is possible to lay communications without creating various channels. This rule applies to the wireframe method.
The GKL surface can be processed with almost all finish coatings. It is also very convenient that different types of finishes can be combined with each other.

Alignment of walls with GKL is especially important when internal insulation of the house is used.

When creating decorative elements using drywall, you need to take into account that it will be necessary to create additional sections of the frame, which must first be correctly calculated.

Preparing for wall cladding

Do-it-yourself wall cladding with drywall begins with preliminary preparation. Often this process takes much longer than the work itself. It is better to take care of the miscalculation of the necessary costs, material and drawing up a detailed plan (scheme) of work in advance.

First of all, you should measure the room. This must be done with particular care, any errors will lead to problems during the installation process.

Measurement of the premises is an important stage of preparatory work

On a note! There are various options for drywall sheets on the market, so you can choose the material even for non-standard objects.

Also pay attention to the thickness of the plate, it can be from 6 to 12.5 mm. Width starts from 60 cm to 120 cm.

When choosing, you can focus on the color of the sheet, it gives an idea of its characteristics:

the most common option is for simple rooms, its color is gray;
for wet rooms - moisture-resistant drywall, green in color;
fire-resistant sheets are red.

The green color of drywall "speaks" of its moisture-resistant properties

Immediately determined with the method of fixing the plate, the choice of additional materials will depend on this. If a frameless method is used, then it is necessary to choose the right glue and its quantity. When creating a crate, the number of metal profiles and fittings is calculated. Do not forget about the need to prepare the required tool.

What should be considered when installing GKL

So, it has already been noted that a lot depends on the installation method that will be chosen in advance. Take into account the following:

For rooms with a large area, the frame method is suitable. But we must remember that the erected crate takes up part of the area.
Accordingly, it is better to sheathe small rooms by gluing GCR boards. This is the only way to keep the size of the object. If you use a frame, the room will become noticeably cramped and uncomfortable.
The use of a metal profile requires compliance with certain rules. Among the main ones is strict adherence to the installation of level guides.

Wall cladding with drywall using battens

The use of this method does not require specific skills. All work is quite simple, but requires care. You should not rush, it is better to do everything measuredly, as a result of which you will get a high-quality design that will please the eye.

On a note! By itself, the technology of wall cladding with drywall has some difficulty precisely in terms of creating a crate. The procedure for facing with GKL slabs is not the main stage of such an event.

The work to create the crate is as follows:

Everything superfluous is removed from the walls. You should get a clean surface.
Produce markup. Immediately draw the location of the vertical racks (step 55-60 cm). This makes it possible to pre-drill for the dowel.
Install the guide profile. This is done along the perimeter of the wall of the room. It is in it that the installation of vertical elements begins. They are attached using U-shaped brackets.
Attach horizontal braces.

Photo of the frame installation process:

Each stage of work is carried out using a level. Only having achieved perfect evenness - each element is fixed.

Installation of drywall sheets

Plasterboard wall sheathing is done according to the following principle:

The desired sheet size is measured. Excess is removed with a construction knife.
The edges of the sheets that will be located next to each other are trimmed. Do it at a slight angle.
The very installation of the GKL plate consists in screwing it to the profile. Keep a step of 20-25 cm.
Consider that you need to make a gap between the floor and the ceiling, it should be at least 5 mm.
Now it remains only to seal the joints between the sheets and proceed to further finishing.

A few tips:

Self-tapping screws are recessed literally flush with the surface. You can not twist or twist them too much.
Between the sheets make a gap - 3-5 mm.
If it is planned to fasten heavy elements, then mortgages are made. They must be securely attached to the wall.

Thus, a drywall room is obtained that will serve for many years. In principle, if you follow the rules for further finishing, then even when replacing the decorative layer, it will not be necessary to change the wall cladding of the GKL.

Sheathing with glue

Installation of drywall on glue is best done when there is at least a little experience in carrying out such work. The fact is that it will be almost impossible to correct the defect with such work.

Guided by the following rules:

It becomes extremely clear how to sheathe the walls of a room with gypsum boards. This procedure allows you to quickly and most importantly reliably create a surface that will serve for any further finishing.

Some Features

Regardless of which option is chosen, there are certain features that should be observed in any case.

Before starting wall cladding with drywall, they make a preliminary marking of the plates. What is it? Imagine that you want to install various lighting fixtures on the surface, but how to do it? Indeed, after installing the GKL, you will have to spend extra time searching for a place where the electrical wiring passes. Therefore, everything is done in advance.
Direct drank holes for built-in lights can be postponed. But then take into account the possibility of getting on a metal (wooden) profile.
Sheathing around window openings requires the greatest care. Often, radiators are located under the windowsill. So, they immediately calculate the location of removable screens. To do this, make additional mortgages and false panels.
It is better not to take risks and take care of pre-finishing the surface that will be under the drywall. What it includes is the application of compounds that will protect against the effects of various fungi and mold. They also provide thermal and waterproofing.
A wooden frame is best used in houses that are made of the same material.

Undoubtedly, wall cladding with drywall will allow you to create a surface that will allow you to show all your imagination for further decoration.

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