How to install a rack ceiling. Slatted ceilings Slatted ceiling on the balcony along or across

They first appeared in our country in the 90s, but then they cost much more than other types of repairs, and for this reason they were not widely used. But over time, the production technology of this material improved, which allowed manufacturers to significantly reduce their prices. Now slatted ceilings can already be found everywhere, both in administrative buildings and in simple ones. And if you carry out the installation of a two-level rack ceiling at home, you can generally get a work of art in the apartment.

1. Stringers, profiles, suspension panels and all other fixtures that make up your ceiling.
2. Impact drill, screwdriver, puncher, jigsaw.
3. Construction level, rulers, tape measure, marker for marking.
4. A set of screwdrivers, pliers, metal shears, a knife.
5. A set of self-tapping screws and dowel-nails.
6. Ladder.

Lath ceiling installation technology

1. First of all, we determine the height of your ceiling. It can be arbitrary, but if there are lighting devices here, then it is necessary to lower it at least 1 cm below the height of the lamp.
2. We make markings around the entire perimeter of the room, connecting the dots with a straight line. To do this, use the corners, applying them to the wall. Here, at the level set by us, the basis of this entire complex structure will be held.

3. We put marks under the future mount. The marking step is 30-40 cm, but if tiles are laid on the walls in the room, then this should be taken into account so that the marks do not fall on the seam. Otherwise, ceramic tiles may burst.

4. We drill rails.

5. We make a hole in the walls.

6. We fasten the corners to the walls with self-tapping screws. This is a fairly light material, and such a mount will withstand it.

7. Next, we prepare our guides for work - stringers. We will need them at the next stage of mounting the rack ceiling.

8. If the bathroom is small, up to 5 square meters, then only three stringers are enough here. The standard distance between them is 70 cm-1 m. But it is better to put one more additional bar, which will give additional strength to our structure.

9. So that the ceiling does not sag, it is better to step back a little from the wall - about 10 cm.

10. Using a drill and a “crown” nozzle, we make holes for lighting fixtures.

11. Drilling must be done as carefully as possible so as not to damage our strips.

12. Immediately insert the lamps into the grooves made.

13. Let's start attaching the panels. They are inserted into the stringers until a characteristic click, indicating that the edges of the rails are securely fixed.

14. Gradually insert them one by one, filling the ceiling space.

15. The panel that turned out opposite the stringer mount is placed last.

16. We adjust the height of the ceiling.

17. This operation can be performed using a screwdriver or a conventional screwdriver.

18. We fasten the remaining rail.

19. We check the quality of work. If the installation of a plastic or aluminum rack ceiling is done correctly, then for a dozen or two years you can forget about repairs.

Where is the best place to install an aluminum rack ceiling?

Everyone knows that aluminum, unlike plastic, is a non-flammable material. This allows you to use this type of finish on stairwells and other possible ways of evacuating people. If you use it in the kitchen, you will be absolutely sure that the low ceiling above the stove will not suffer from the heat. He is also not afraid of high humidity, which makes it possible to widely use aluminum slatted ceilings in halls, baths, pools and lobbies. In addition, such a surface is environmentally friendly, does not emit harmful fumes, and can be cleaned with any detergent.

Slatted ceilings are widely used for finishing rooms with high humidity and pollution, such as kitchens, bathrooms, and laundry rooms. The reason for their popularity is the lightness of the material, its durability, moisture resistance and ease of care. Mounting it is also easy. To figure out how to assemble a rack ceiling, you must first understand what it is.

Rail material and ceiling design

Slatted ceilings consist of aluminum, steel, plastic slats (5 to 30 cm wide and 0.4-0.7 mm thick) and a suspension mounting system.

Laths are matte or glossy, smooth or textured and may differ in seams. The way the rails are connected to each other is: open, closed and gapless.

The mounting system consists of the following parts:

• Carrier rail - combs - galvanized strips with locking teeth, under which the rails are inserted. The design of the edge of the rail is such that the bottom, hidden edge, snaps into place with a fastener, and the top, front one, covers it.
• Adjustable suspension consisting of a bracket attached to the comb and a rod attached to the base ceiling.
• Corner, wall, profile, which is needed to close the joint between the wall and the suspended ceiling.

The suspension height can be from 5 to 15 cm. It cannot be less than 5 cm (4 cm is the tire width), and how much more depends on the size of the communications that are bred under the ceiling and the design solution.

It is necessary to decide whether the rails will be attached along or across the room. A long and narrow room with longitudinal slats on the ceiling will seem even longer and narrower. Therefore, the decision must be made based on the dimensions of the room.

Mounting method for rack ceiling

Before figuring out how to assemble a rack ceiling, you need to stock up on the necessary tools. For work you will need:

• building level 1.2-1.6 m;
• ruler, tape measure;
• marker;
• sharp knife, metal scissors;
• dowels, self-tapping screws;
• drill.

How to assemble rack aluminum ceiling: Installation algorithm:

1. In the upper corner of the room at a distance of not less than 4 cm, we make a mark along which the rails will be attached.
2. Using a level, this mark must be moved around the entire perimeter of the room in increments of no more than 1 m.
3. We measure the length of the wall, parallel to which the strips will be mounted, mark and cut off the corner profile of the desired length.
4. We drill holes for fastening the profile - 5 cm from the wall and further every 50-60 cm.
5. We apply the profile to the marked line on the wall and through the holes we outline the attachment points.
6. We drill holes, apply a profile, insert dowels and fasten the profile on self-tapping screws.
7. We also attach the corner profile to the rest of the walls of the room.
8. We fix the carrier rail perpendicular to the wall along which the rails will go. With a tape measure, we measure a distance of 30-40 cm from the wall, and then every 90-100 cm - to the end of the wall. The distance from the tire to the corner profile should be about 1 m.
9. We strengthen the carrier rail with the help of suspensions. To do this, you need to attach it to the ceiling and mark the attachment points 30 cm to the left and right of the wall. Between them at a distance of 1-1.5 m we mark additional fasteners. We also make markings for all tires.
10. We punch holes at the marked points with a puncher, insert dowels into them.
11. The rail can be mounted directly to the ceiling or on adjustable hangers, depending on the required hanging height.
12. The length of the rack ceiling panels should be equal to the length (width) of the ceiling, less than 0.3-0.5 cm. We measure and cut the required number of panels.
13. We proceed to the installation of the panels: we first insert the panel diagonally, and then align it along the wall and snap it into place with the carrier rail clamps.
14. We insert the second behind the first rail, matching it along the seam with the previous one and so on to the opposite end of the wall.
15. The suspension height must be adjusted by the depth of the screwed-in screws or suspension adjustment (depending on which mounting option is chosen).
16. If the last rail does not completely fit in width, you will have to cut it: outline a line along which it will need to be cut with a sharp knife along the ruler. The rail must be bent and unbent along this line until it breaks along it. On a long rail, it is better to make cuts to the line and break off its extra half in parts.
17. The trimmed panel is installed under the corner profile, fixed in it with wooden spacers. The rack ceiling is ready.

If built-in lamps are installed in the ceiling, then mark their location, make holes and insert the lamp housings in advance, and remove the wiring during the installation process.

The kitchen and bathroom are high humidity areas. When water evaporates, it rises to the ceiling and settles on it in the form of small droplets (condensate). The main load in such rooms with high humidity falls on the ceilings. An excellent solution is to install a slatted ceiling in the bathroom. The material is not afraid of moisture, it is very easy to care for it, and everyone can master the installation if desired.

Before proceeding directly to the installation of the rack ceiling in the bathroom, let's find out its strengths and weaknesses. And to begin with, let's find out that such materials for finishing rooms with high humidity first appeared on the Russian market in the 90s, just when most people began to make “European-style repairs” in their homes.

Materials for ceiling installation were supplied to the Russian markets from Germany, therefore, like any novelty, they were not available to many Russians. Still, the high cost of the building material did not prevent people from installing similar structures in the bathroom and kitchen, since the high cost and beautiful appearance justified these costs.

Currently, in building supermarkets you can find several types of slatted ceilings: these are traditional white slats, as well as matte and mirror designs. With the help of beautiful ceilings, even the most daring design ideas can be translated into reality.

The main advantages of the rack ceiling:

• If you choose an aluminum slatted ceiling for your bathroom, it will last a long time. Such material is not afraid of moisture, tolerates temperature fluctuations and changes in humidity. It is allowed to install the ceiling in the toilet, bathroom and kitchen;
• the ceiling is a suspended structure, with its help you can make the ceilings perfectly even without significant labor costs;
• protection of premises from high humidity, the spread of mold and fungus;
• the simplicity of the rack ceiling allows you to choose this finishing material even for those people who have never been involved in the installation of suspended structures;
• there is no need to pre-prepare the surface;
• ease of care - the ceiling is easily wiped with a slightly damp cloth;
• a large selection of material colors;
• repels dust and dirt;
• service life is 20 years;
• suspended structure made of aluminum is a harmless material. Such ceilings can be installed in living rooms;
• slatted ceilings look presentable, and if you choose the tone of the finishing material with a touch of walls and furniture, then the room will look more advantageous.

Of the minuses of ceilings, only two can be distinguished - this is the cost of materials and the fact that installing a slatted ceiling in the bathroom will require some skill and the presence of additional devices (for example, a retractable ladder).

What is this finishing material

The ceiling can be made of steel and aluminum. This is a profile with teeth located at the same distance, for which the ceiling rails are fixed. Each rail (its type) has its own traverse. So that no gaps form during the installation of the ceiling, it is advisable to buy traverses and slats in one place and from one company.

After you have decided on the type of ceiling and its shade, you need to find out how much finishing material you need to buy.

We calculate the amount according to the following method:

1. We measure the room with a construction tape measure. We find out the length of the profile (U-shaped). It is fixed on the wall and will allow you to do the job as accurately as possible.
2. We calculate the length (total) of the carrier comb or stringer. To do this, we need to make markings on the ceiling perpendicular to the location (so far only intuitively) of future panels.
3. We calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and get the approximate amount of materials to cover the ceiling.

It remains to go to the construction supermarket to purchase everything you need, and also do not forget to prepare the tools.

When installing a slatted ceiling in the bathroom with our own hands, we will need the following materials and tools:

• rack ceiling set with profiles, panels, stringers;
• suspension elements;
• perforator;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• felt-tip pen;
• roulette;
• level;
• metal scissors;
• ordinary scissors;
• pliers;
• dowel;
• self-tapping screws;
• folding ladder for construction work.

Depending on the method of fastening, ceilings can be of different types. Consider the options for mounting structures:

1. Closed mount. During installation, the rails are fastened closely, so there is no space between them. The result is a perfectly smooth and beautiful ceiling, reminiscent of PVC panels or lining.
2. In an open way - a small gap remains between the panels, which is closed with a plinth (width no more than 1.5 cm). This mounting option is not suitable for small rooms, since the gaps are very noticeable.
3. There is another interesting option for fastening the rails in an open way - you can close the space between the strips with aluminum strips, then the ceiling will look beautiful. This option allows you to combine different materials and decorate the room in an unusual way. Inserts from another material will help visually lengthen the room in the right direction.

The slats themselves differ in size, width and thickness:

1. The size is 3 or 4 meters. If this option does not suit you, you need to order a service for cutting ceiling rails on a special machine (you can cut the rail yourself with a grinder).
2. The width of the finishing material varies from 9 to 20 cm. Most often, buyers choose slats with a width of 10 cm.
3. You can choose different thickness of ceiling rails, but only if the structure is assembled from very thin rails, then where is the guarantee that the ceiling will be reliable? The best option is the width - 0.5 mm.

If the need arises, you can change the shade of the ceiling, only you can paint it only 1 time. To achieve the effect of a mirror, you must purchase a chrome ceiling.

And another important tip, pay attention to the factory packaging, each ceiling rail must be protected by a film.

Do-it-yourself slatted ceiling in the bathroom

Installation of the ceiling in the bathroom, kitchen or toilet begins only after all other finishing work in this room has been completed. Installing the ceiling is the so-called final chord in the decoration of the room.

The crucial moment, on which the result of your work depends on 90%, is markup. On the ceiling, you need to correctly make the markup, in order to then fix the profile.

How to properly mark the ceiling for mounting rails:

• mark the perimeter of the room with a marker using the building level. If you have a horizontal ceiling, then you need to decide on the installation height. For multi-level ceilings, complex markings and additional calculations are needed;
• the distance (upper edge of the wall) will determine the filling of the space between the ceiling and the suspended ceiling structure. If nothing will be placed in this niche, then you can raise the ceiling to the maximum. It is enough to leave a small gap within 5 cm. If you plan to install lighting or ventilation, then you need to allocate more space. Just keep in mind that in standard apartment buildings the ceiling height is the same everywhere - 2.5 m and you don’t need to “take away” a lot for installing a rack ceiling, as the room will seem small and the ceiling will “crush”;
• now you need to apply the markings under the fastening of the stringers. The lines between the side walls and the markings must be strictly parallel and perpendicular to the direction of the end wall and panels.

How to install a rack ceiling in the bathroom

The first step in the installation of the structure is the installation of guides. Guide strips must be installed around the entire perimeter of the room. To do this, according to the pre-made markings, we “lower” our future ceiling by 15, maximum 20 cm (this depends on the communications that lie in the resulting space). To do everything correctly, it is advisable to use a laser building level in your work. We need to draw a straight line horizontally to attach the guide profile.

The standard profile length is 3 m, if necessary, it can be shortened using metal shears.

Now you need to attach the profile to the wall (to make it more convenient to work, stand on a stool or use a folding ladder). It is necessary to drill a hole with an electric drill and insert the screw together with the dowel. Thus, you need to attach the profile around the entire perimeter of the bathroom. The step between fasteners is 5 cm.

In the corners, the profile is connected so that the edge of one fastener goes into the hole of the other. After completing the installation of the guides, you need to make sure that everything matches in level and there are no distortions. After that, you can install suspensions, but first we will take measurements for their fastening, observing the distance (a step of 1 m is enough). We mark the place of attachment on the ceiling and fix the stringers directly to the ceiling.

The hardest part of the work is already over, now we need to learn how to make a slatted ceiling in the bathroom.

• we take the first rail and insert it into the profile, which is already fixed to the wall until it clicks, which means that it has fallen into place;
• we snap the rail with the help of guides;
• by the same principle we mount all other rails.

Do not forget before installing each strip on the ceiling, remove the protective film.

Thus, we gradually “recruit” the ceiling to the last panel. If you want it to look beautiful, then you need to insert mirror strips. Then, when mounting the rails, you need to alternate the panels - first 1 main rail is mounted, then a narrow mirror rail (standard width 2 m) and so on.

If you plan to install fixtures in the bathroom, then even at the first stage - marking, you need to determine the location of the lighting equipment and drill holes of the desired diameter in the rail in advance using a grinder. When installing the ceiling, start working from one edge of the wall, as soon as you get to the installation of the rail with a hole for the lamp, you can proceed with the installation of the rails from the opposite side. And at the end, install the fixtures and fix the strips on the ceiling.

It is easier to install the structure with two people, so that one person supports the rail, and the other guides and inserts it into the grooves. Another joint work will help to complete the work faster and better, since the rails are easy to scratch during installation.

In order for the result of the work to please you, you must adhere to these recommendations:

1. Consider the direction of the lines that form at the junction of the panel. They are located from the window (when installing the ceiling in the kitchen) or from the entrance to the opposite wall.
2. If you arrange the slats transversely, you can visually change the proportions of a narrow room.
3. If your bathroom is square in size, then diagonal stripes will look good on the ceiling.
4. If your room is spacious, then the panels will need to be connected (spliced ​​to each other). Then, when buying the necessary set of components, do not forget to purchase intermediate liners so that the junction is almost invisible.
5. When installing the structure, you can immediately install spotlights; for this, holes of the desired diameter are drilled in the rail in advance.
6. If you need to cut the panels, it is better to work with an angle grinder, and you can cut a hole for a spotlight with a cutter.

1. Bring out the wires for connecting lighting equipment as soon as you install the strip. Leave the wires with a margin so that there are no problems when connecting. You can connect the fixtures after installation.
2. If you want to mount the ceiling diagonally, then the profiles of the suspended structure should be placed diagonally.

Your room will be transformed if you personally carry out the installation of the rack ceiling. Such structures are easy to install, they do not absorb moisture, they are easy to clean and will serve you for many years.

How to install a rack ceiling in the bathroom, watch the video:

Slatted ceilings are used to decorate various premises, both residential and public. The kitchen is no exception. The popularity of this material is due to its durability, moisture resistance, low weight of the structure, ease of installation and ease of maintenance. If you have minimal construction skills and the necessary set of tools, you can certainly install a slatted ceiling with your own hands.

Varieties of rails for the ceiling

What is a suspension system

Do-it-yourself rack ceiling installation: a step-by-step guide

Step one: installing guides around the perimeter of the room

Step two: installing hangers

Step Three: Attaching the Support Rails

Step four: installing a rack ceiling

Tips for the operation of suspended slatted ceilings

Photo examples of rack ceiling design in the kitchen

Do-it-yourself slatted ceiling in the kitchen is not at all difficult to do

RAIL CEILING CONSTRUCTION

Slatted ceilings are a type of suspended ceilings. The construction consists of aluminum, plastic or steel panels and a special suspension system for attaching the rails to the wall. The panels are made of steel, aluminum or plastic tape with a thickness of 0.4 to 0.7 mm, a width of 50 to 300 mm and a length of up to 6 m. Slatted ceilings begin to be installed last: when the floor has already been finished and the plastered walls have dried.

VARIETY OF RAILS FOR THE CEILING

Reiki (panels) can be chosen for every taste. The surface of the slats can be matte or glossy, smooth or perforated, and can imitate leather or wood in texture. The shape of the panels can be rectangular or rounded, and a great variety of colors and shades are offered. Reiki can be placed along or across the ceiling, as well as diagonally. This will help to visually enlarge or reduce the room. So, if it is long and narrow, it is better to place the slats horizontally (across) the ceiling. Otherwise, the room will seem even longer.

Slatted ceilings are distinguished by interfluve joints, of which there are several varieties. With an open joint between the rails, there are gaps about 1.5 cm wide. In this case, the installation of the rack thread is completed by attaching the decorative profile to these gaps. If the joint is closed, the slats go behind each other. Another variety is a joint without gaps, when the slats are installed close to each other.

WHAT IS A SUSPENSION SYSTEM

Suspension system for rack ceiling consists of a universal carrier rail (other names - comb, stringer, traverse), adjustable suspension and corner profile. The tire is a bar made of galvanized steel with grooves where the rails are installed and fastened there (snap into place). The suspension consists of a bracket and a rod. The bracket is attached to the carrier rail, and the rod to the main ceiling. The distance from the main ceiling to the suspended system is usually 5-12 cm. You can determine this distance yourself, it will depend on the presence of communications on the ceiling and your personal preferences.

INSTALLATION OF THE RAIL CEILING WITH YOUR HANDS: A STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE

We figured out the device of this type of ceiling. Now you can start installing it. If you have never watched how the installation of a rack ceiling is done, the video should come in handy: For work, you will need the following tools: puncher, drill, metal shears, building level, tape measure, ruler, marker, sharp knife, self-tapping screws and dowels.

Do-it-yourself rack ceiling mounting scheme

STEP ONE: INSTALLING THE GUIDES AROUND THE ROOM

First, mark with a marker the place where the new ceiling begins. The distance must be at least 5 cm from the existing one. Using the building level, transfer this mark around the perimeter of the room (step up to 1 m). Draw a line. Measure the length of the wall according to the marks made and cut off the necessary piece of the corner profile. The standard profile length is three meters. It is cut with scissors for metal. Attach the guide profile to the wall along the drawn line and drill a hole with a drill. Screw in the screw with the dowel. Having fixed the entire profile in increments of 50-60 cm, check its evenness with a level. At the inner corners, the profile should be fastened end-to-end, and at the outer corners - at an angle of 45 degrees.

STEP TWO: INSTALLING THE SUSPENSIONS

The mounting points of the load-bearing rails must be marked with a tape measure. Make the first mark at a distance of 30-40 cm from the wall, the next should be 90-100 cm parallel to each other. Fix the hangers with screws with dowels, pre-drilling holes with a drill. Check the position of the hangers by level.

STEP THREE: ATTACHING THE CARRIER RAIL

Bearing rails - the basis of the design of the rack ceiling It is better that the distance between the traverses (carrier rails) does not exceed 1-1.2 m. Install the tires perpendicular to the rails on the same level with the profile nailed around the perimeter. Screw the tires to the hangers with a screwdriver. It is very important at this stage to avoid errors in order to mount an even structure. After all, the appearance of the entire ceiling depends on its evenness. By the way, with a short distance, the carrier rail can be mounted not on adjustable suspensions, but directly on the base ceiling. The distance between the corner profile and the carrier rail is 1 cm. If the rail is shorter than necessary, it can be extended. To do this, the suspension is fixed at the very beginning of the next traverse. The second traverse is screwed end-to-end with the first.

STEP FOUR: INSTALLING THE RAIL CEILING

Installing a slatted ceiling: the correct sequence of operations Release the slats from the protective film and cut to fit the room. The length should be 0.3-0.5 cm less than the distance between opposite walls. The slats are carefully inserted into the guides and snapped along the entire length onto the traverse clamps. Each subsequent rail is installed next to the previous one. The height of the tires, if necessary, can be adjusted by changing the screwing depth of self-tapping screws (if the tire is fixed to the ceiling) or adjustable hangers. If the last rail does not fit in width, it must be cut. To do this, mark the required distance along the entire length of the panel and draw a line with a knife along the ruler. Bend and unbend the rail until it breaks. If the length of the rail is large, it is better to make transverse cuts and break off each part separately. After installing the cut panel, secure it with wooden spacers or corner profile pieces. Don't forget the plinth. This is a decorative element that will give your slatted ceiling a finished and neat look and hide the gaps between the structure and the walls. If the kitchen has uneven walls, choose a wide ceiling plinth, it will make the structure visually smoother. Do-it-yourself installation of the rack ceiling is completed. The only thing left to do was clean up.

Slatted ceiling looks modern, original and stylish If you have installed slatted ceilings in the kitchen, they will get dirty faster than in other rooms. Caring for these ceilings is very easy. Slatted ceilings made of plastic or metal are not afraid of water, so they can be washed with a sponge dipped in soapy water. Aluminum rack ceiling is not afraid of temperature and humidity changes, so it is an ideal choice for the kitchen. In addition to the fact that its installation is quite simple and does not require surface preparation, the slatted ceiling hides the flaws of the existing ceiling and looks very aesthetically pleasing. Slatted metal ceilings are an environmentally friendly finishing material, so it can be used not only in the kitchen, but also in the bedroom or children's room. When choosing a rack ceiling for the kitchen, it is better to give preference to high-quality suspended ceilings with a protective film. It protects the ceiling from dirt and moisture, low and high temperatures and various contaminants. With proper installation, your ceiling will retain its appearance for a long time. Many men even like to install a slatted ceiling with their own hands. They compare this activity to assembling a constructor.

PHOTO EXAMPLES OF DESIGN RAIL CEILING IN THE KITCHEN

The classic slatted ceiling for the kitchen will harmoniously fit into the interior, the installation of the slatted ceiling in any style Colored slatted ceiling allows you to achieve an unusual visual effect Two-level slatted ceiling can be used for room zoning The two-level slatted ceiling looks especially impressive

By installing ceiling slats in different directions, you can visually divide the room into several zones Spot lighting - the most common option for slatted ceilings Slatted ceiling can be not only straight, but also curved. In this case, it can be used to hide height differences on the ceiling. Curvilinear rack ceiling allows you to hide unfortunate features of the layout or external communication elements

Curvilinear ceiling system, lighting features and a well-chosen color scheme turned this ceiling into a very important decorative element. Original ideas can be realized by combining different materials for finishing the ceiling.

The suspended structure in the bathroom performs a whole range of technical functions: it masks defects in the ceiling surface, serves as an excellent frame for built-in lighting, and allows you to create a unique project in your favorite style.

Professionals can easily cope with both drywall and tensile structures, while amateurs should start with a simpler option: install a slatted ceiling in the bathroom on their own - quickly and at no extra cost.

The prototype of modern plastic and aluminum panels is the usual wooden lining, which is still used for wall and ceiling cladding.

Narrow long slats of various lengths are easy to install, so they are often used for finishing cottages, utility rooms, basements, attics.

With the advent of lighter and more decorative plastic panels on the market, the choice of decorating suspended structures has expanded - the most suitable for renovating bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens.

Thanks to the versatility of plastic, slatted ceilings have become a godsend for decorating the ceiling in the bathroom. Their advantages are undeniable: inexpensive cost, quick installation, diverse design, prompt repair

According to the material of manufacture, all popular panels that our supermarkets offer are divided into plastic and aluminum. PVC slats have a standard length of 2.5 m - 3 m - 4 m (there are also 6-meter parts, but they will not be required for typical bathrooms), but they differ in width.

Panels 25-30 cm wide after installation look like a continuous coating, as they do not have pronounced borders or inserts. We will dwell in more detail on elements that outwardly resemble narrow slats, that is, they have a width of 85 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm.

Aluminum slats are resistant to water splashes and temperature extremes, and their diverse design - from traditional white coating to bright gilding - allows you to realize fantastic projects

Reiki differ not only in size, but also in shape. Among the builders there are "their" divisions into categories.

For example, elements with right angles and a clear configuration are usually called German, with rounded edges - Italian, and unusual ones, characterized by a complex shape and additional installation difficulties - design.

Here are some types of decorative plastic panels:

Elements with soft, rounded corners, the length of the main parts and inserts - 3 m or 4 m, perforated options are possible (hole diameter - 1.5 mm)

V-shaped decorative elements that play the role of inserts between the main, background details. Possible colors: white, gold, silver matte or glossy, chrome

Decorative cube-shaped inserts that fill gaps in an open ceiling. The color of the inserts (gold, silver, chrome, white) is selected in contrast with the main background

When choosing certain details, it is necessary to focus on wall cladding, furniture color, lighting features and make sure that the design of the rails does not contradict the chosen style.

Do-it-yourself slatted ceiling: detailed photo installation instructions

Consider how to quickly install a rack ceiling in the bathroom, using a minimum of inexpensive parts. This manual is useful for beginners to get acquainted with the details of suspended structures.

The installation procedure is the same, regardless of the use of aluminum, steel or plastic parts.

Selecting the point in time to install the structure

Do not forget that the construction of a false ceiling is just one of the stages of bathroom renovation, therefore, it is necessary to determine in advance its place among other works.

Most often, construction activities are moving in the direction from the bottom up, that is, first I lay the floor, then the walls are tiled, and finally the suspended structure is erected. This is the most correct and logically explainable order.

The installation of traverses and the assembly of rails is a quick and “clean” process compared to, say, wall decoration with porcelain stoneware. There is practically no dirt and debris, and the most difficult event is the precise installation of the perimeter and the installation of suspensions.

Do not forget that in parallel with the installation of suspended elements, it is necessary to carry out work on the installation of lighting fixtures - spotlights, chandeliers or hidden lighting

Finishing ceiling work allows you to adjust the height of the walls, mask the flaws in their decoration. For example, a small gap between the tile and the ceiling is easy to cover with a suspended structure.

And here it would not be out of place to recall another advantage of the rack ceiling: it can always be done without prior preparation, simply by installing the profile and “typing” the required number of panels.

Simply put, this is a budget version of the ceiling, which can be erected or dismantled at any stage of the construction process.

We will provide instructions for the construction of a white slatted ceiling. If desired, it can be decorated with colored inserts, install spotlights or use slats of a different size.

Preparatory stage - materials and tools

First of all, you will need tools for marking, since correctly measured distances and intervals are a guarantee of a beautiful result. So, you need:

• marker;
• square;
• roulette;
• building cord (optional);
• level (preferably laser).

With the help of these simple devices, you can carry out all the preliminary work. The first step will be the installation of a guide profile, which will run along the perimeter of the entire room, so it is important to calculate the height of the future structure.

The uppermost ceramic tile can serve as a hint, and its edge can serve as a kind of guide.

The laser level is necessary at any stage of repair work in the bathroom, especially when marking. With its help lay tiles, cladding panels, mount suspended structures of various types

If there are plastic panels or a layer of plaster on the walls, then you will have to count from the floor. Why not from the ceiling?

The fact is that in some houses the ceiling slabs lie unevenly, and if you focus on them, you can make a design with a slope - this shortcoming will immediately catch your eye.

In addition to marking tools, you will need scissors (or a construction knife), a drill (perforator), a screwdriver, a screwdriver. Plastic is easily cut with an ordinary construction knife.

But if you chose aluminum panels, you will have to get special metal scissors. As you can see, there are few tools.

Metal shears can be useful for cutting aluminum panels, steel rails and other metal parts, including decorative corners and inserts

List of required materials:

• ceiling panels - slats made of plastic or aluminum with a width of 85 to 150 mm;
• guide metal profile;
• traverses (bearing tires for attaching rails) and suspensions for them;
• decorative plinth;
• fasteners (dowels, screws).

If the width of the bathroom is only one and a half meters, then it makes sense to purchase 3-meter parts, divide them in half and choose a “transverse” design.

For a large room, respectively, we buy 4, less often - 6-meter panels. If you want to decorate the ceiling with decorative inserts, consider their width when purchasing the main details.

The calculation of the supporting profile is as follows: if the length of the bathroom does not exceed 2.5 m, then 2 rows are enough, that is, a maximum of 5 m. Knowing the number and length of the tires, we calculate purely suspensions - with a light ceiling, 2-3 suspensions for each bus.

When buying a kit of parts, take care of spare parts that may come in handy for the next repair.

Installation of guides around the perimeter

Suppose we measured the height of the flow and marked the line along which the guides of all four sides will pass. The distance to the ceiling is from 10 to 20 cm.

It is impossible below, since the room will look cramped, they are also not recommended above to leave room for technical maneuvers - lighting system devices. Before installation, we check the accuracy of measurements with a level.

We cut the carrier profile into segments equal to the length of the sides using metal scissors.

We apply each segment with the wide side to the intended line, drill holes right through the metal, fix it with screws with dowels. The distance between the holes is approximately 40 cm

If we put the profile on top of the tile, make sure that the marks do not fall on the junction of two tiles. In this case, it is better to use not a puncher for drilling, but a drill and a special drill for ceramics.

We place the guides alternately on all the walls, inserting one profile into the other at the corner joints. When installing each new segment, we use a laser level - any distortion will be noticeable after the general installation

The result should be a smooth frame encircling the entire room. It will serve as a support for the installation of rails and perform a decorative function.

Installation of suspensions and traverses

We fix the hangers (perforated metal plates on which the tires will be mounted) on the stream by drilling recesses for the dowels in its surface.

We hammer the dowels into specially designed holes with a hammer, then insert 2 screws each and tighten them with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

When the suspensions are firmly fixed, we bend both ends of each of them down. Between the ends there will be traverses - load-bearing tires, the basis for installing panels

We take the tires, bring them to the hangers and securely fasten them with screws at the required height. We bend the remaining free ends of the hangers up so that they do not interfere with the fastening of the rails.

When installed correctly, the ends of the traverses should almost touch the opposite walls and be above the supporting profile. The position of each fixed part is checked with a level

It happens that the tire is not enough for the entire length of the room. In this case, it must be increased. At the end of the installed traverse, we mount another suspension, bring the missing segment end-to-end and fix the structure.

On this, the draft work is completed, it remains to assemble the ceiling, laying out the slats according to the planned project (along, across, diagonally, combined).

Ceiling Assembly

We take out the rails from the packages, remove the protective film. Up to this point, it is not recommended to unpack plastic or aluminum panels so as not to inadvertently damage the edges or the top decorative layer.

We cut segments along the length or width of the room.

Alternately, we take the rails and, one after the other, insert the ends into the guide wall profile, and snap the central part onto the traverse (on which special teeth are intended for this)

The last rail does not always fit in width, sometimes it needs to be trimmed. We snap the last detail - the ceiling is ready.

In our case, the ceiling is of a closed type, that is, the panels fit snugly against each other, forming an integral coating, without gaps. If the plans complicate the installation with decorative elements, then gaps should remain between the rails - along the width of the inserts. We install decorative inserts together with the main ones, alternating them

It remains to complete the installation of the lighting system.

Installation of fixtures

We are not interested in mounting the chandelier, as it does not fit well with the slatted ceiling. The simplest and best option is a set of spotlights. Their location can be any:

• along the perimeter of the room;
• along long walls;
• diagonally;
• over work areas;
• in a checkerboard pattern, etc.

In fact, the lion's share of the system is prepared in advance. Even before attaching the rails, it is necessary to lay the wiring, bring it to the fixing points of the fixtures, and cut holes in the panels to size.

In this case, after mounting the ceiling, it remains to fix the fixtures and screw in the lamps.

Best suited for bathtubs are LED lamps that do not heat the ceiling surface, save energy and give light close to natural light.

The appearance of the lamp can be anything, but it must match the color of the panels and match the style of the room.

The most popular models are round ones in silver or gold, but there are hundreds of original lamps decorated with rhinestones, Czech glass, colored shades or pendants.

Design secrets of slatted ceilings

Having decided to build a slatted ceiling in the bathroom or in the toilet with your own hands, consider its design even before starting work. You can achieve an incredible effect, given the texture or location of the rails.

The simplest option, which can be called universal, is white panels without inserts and patterns, with built-in lights. It is suitable for a bathroom in a classic style or in any modern design.

The main advantage of white glossy and matte slats is their excellent compatibility with the whole gamut of colors and textures. All shades of white are in harmony with both pastel wall cladding and dark tiles.

The black ceiling with narrow inserts of the same color looks presentable, especially against the background of chrome accessories and shiny plumbing.

Be careful with black slats. Do not forget that dark tones narrow the space, and the black ceiling, accordingly, visually reduces the height of the walls. For the opposite effect, use reflective gloss or mirror inserts.

Popular slatted ceiling with silver or gold accents. It has two advantages: it increases the decorative possibilities of panels of any color and fits well into environments filled with chrome details.

Try not to mix gold and silver in the interior of the bathroom or use them in large quantities: the colors lose their appeal, become too catchy, attract all the attention. Light silver or gold decor, on the contrary, looks elegant and appropriate.

If you have sufficient skill in the installation of suspended structures, you can experiment and create a complex combined structure, playing with the texture and arrangement of rails of different colors.

One of the design rules concerns moderation in the use of bright colors or shiny details. If the ceiling in the bathroom is too expressive, try to minimize the decoration of the walls.

Finally - one of the options for installing a combined suspended structure.