What seedlings can be planted in spring. What time should trees be planted? Conditions for planting seedlings

Every gardener wants to see his garden healthy, beautiful and abundantly fruitful. The key to good growth, lush flowering and harvesting is a properly carried out planting of fruit trees in the spring.

Unfortunately, the site owner does not always take this procedure responsibly, choosing the first available place for the tree, somehow organizing a planting hole, or placing seedlings too often, not taking into account their growth. In this case, it is not necessary to wait for early fruiting and a good harvest. How and when to plant seedlings of fruit trees in spring? Are there any secrets that allow plants to take root faster and start growing?

Planting dates for seedlings of fruit trees in spring

First of all, it is worth clarifying the timing of planting plants. The literature often indicates that autumn planting is preferred for tree seedlings, however, it should be borne in mind that this recommendation applies to the southern regions.

In the conditions of a long warm autumn, winter-hardy trees and shrubs have time to acclimatize and take root, enduring the winter quite well and starting to grow from early spring. The further north the garden plot is located, the greater the risk of freezing of the tree.

Therefore, in the northern regions, planting of fruit trees in the spring is more often undertaken. At the same time, it is possible to save seedlings of even the most heat-loving crops, as well as successfully transfer plants with an open root system to the ground. True, such a landing has one feature. It should be carried out as early as possible so that the seedling meets the beginning of the growing season already in the soil at its permanent place of residence. Still "sleeping" trees are not sensitive to the active sun and possible frosts.

When to plant fruit trees and shrubs in the spring, on which foliage has already appeared? Indeed, today at spring sales you can buy planting material already with opened buds and even leaves. Such bushes and trees cannot wait. But it's best to drop them off:

• upon the onset of stable heat, when there is no danger of frostbite of the shoots and root system, especially at night;
• in cloudy weather, when there is less risk of sunburn of the buds and foliage that is not accustomed to direct sun.

The specific dates for planting fruit trees and shrub seedlings in the spring depend on the climatic and weather characteristics of the region, the composition of the soil and the location of the site. As a rule, in the lowlands, snowmelt is less active, the soil dries out worse, which delays planting.

Whatever the time for planting seedlings of fruit trees in the spring, preparations for work begin in the fall, choosing a place for plants in advance and preparing planting pits.

The scheme of planting fruit trees and shrubs on the site

When looking for a place for a future orchard, you need to remember that for plants it is extremely important not only soil fertility and, but also lighting. For young plants, the site is selected so that the seedlings are in the light for at least half a day. At the same time, for fragile trees, it is necessary to provide protection from the cold wind.

For speedy acclimatization, it is advised to plant fruit plants the way they grew in the nursery. It is possible to determine the orientation of a tree along the cardinal points, starting from the age of two, along the length of the side shoots. On the south side, they are usually better developed than on the north.

But how to plant a seedling of a fruit tree in the spring if a three-year-old or older plant with an asymmetric crown was brought from the nursery? In this case, it is more useful to deploy it so that the short branches look south. In a couple of years, taking into account corrective pruning, the crown will become uniform and correct.

Mastering a new site, novice gardeners often make a serious mistake. When planting fruit trees in spring, they do not take into account that the height, width of the crown and the characteristics of agricultural technology in the planted species can be very different. The young garden looks well-groomed and grows amicably, but after a few years it turns out that a large pear completely obscured the undersized ones, and berry bushes are not visible under the cherry crowns.

Even at the planning stage, the exact layout of the trees is determined. The health of the plants and the yield they bring will subsequently depend on this plan.

How to determine the minimum distance between fruit trees when planting?

When measuring the distance between seedlings, they are guided by the total value of the height of neighboring adult trees. For example, a fruit-bearing cherry reaches a height of three meters, which means that there must be at least six meters between neighboring trees of the same species and variety. This will create all the conditions for development, as a result of:

• the crowns of grown trees will not overlap and will not shade each other;
• nothing will interfere with the pollination of flowering trees, the growth and filling of fruits;
• much easier to care for the crop and harvest.

In addition, with such planting of fruit trees and shrubs on the site, the risk of infection of the garden with fungal infections and insect damage is seriously reduced.

How to plant seedlings of fruit trees in spring?

It is not enough to purchase high-quality planting material. Any seedling can die if the preparation for its planting was carried out "slipshod". The planting of fruit trees scheduled for spring suggests that the pits for them will be laid in the fall. If this cannot be done, and the summer resident takes the shovel in the spring, then at least two weeks should pass from the moment the pit is laid until the roots of the tree fall into it.

Two- or three-year-old, pears, plums and other stone fruits differ little in size, so they dig a hole under them at least 80 cm in diameter and the same depth. When planting a plant with a closed root system, it is convenient to focus on the size of the container, making the hole 15–20 cm wider and deeper.

To tie up a new garden dweller, a strong support is immediately driven into the bottom of the pit, which will help the plant maintain its verticality in the coming years.

Oddly enough, caring for a fruit tree does not begin after planting, but before it, with fertilizing and preparing the soil into which the seedling will fall. From autumn, fresh manure can be brought into the pit, which will overheat during the winter and will not have a burning effect on the roots of the tree. If the soil in the area is too acidic, it is limed or mixed with dolomite flour. If necessary, excessively dense soil is mixed with sand, and fertile black soil is added to the sandy loam.

H So that during planting in the spring the seedling of the fruit tree does not come into contact with manure or granular products, a layer of fertilizers is sprinkled with a small amount of fertile soil.

How are fruit trees planted in prepared pits in spring? Step by step:

1. The roots of plants with an open root system are straightened, if necessary, soaked overnight to restore tone to wilted areas.
2. The seedling is installed on a cone of fertile soil so that the roots are freely located in the pit, and the root neck is five centimeters above the soil surface. You can check the correct installation of the seedling with a shovel.
3. The tree is sprinkled with soil, avoiding voids between the roots and under the trunk.

Planting a seedling with a closed root system is much easier. You just need to put a moistened earthen clod in a pit, check the level of the neck and sprinkle the voids with a substrate. At the end of the procedure, young trees and shrubs must be watered.

A video about planting seedlings of fruit trees in the spring will help you figure out the intricacies of the process on your own. Attentive attention to the needs of the plant and careful preparation will be a guarantee that the theoretical knowledge gained will be useful in practice.

Summer residents and gardeners responsibly approach the issue of choosing and planting fruit trees. Such a position is fully justified, because planting a tree is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. The quality of the future harvest directly depends on this. Let's figure out when to plant trees - in spring or autumn, and consider the advantages and disadvantages of spring planting.

Buying seedlings

The first thing to start with is to buy a young tree for planting. There are different options where this can be done. It would be best if you go to make a purchase in a specialized store or nursery.

In addition, there are many offers to buy seedlings from hands in spontaneous markets, and not so long ago, online stores began to provide a huge selection of planting material. The last two options do not give any because there is a risk that in the end you will not get what you expect.

The right choice of planting material

So, you went to a garden exhibition or a specialized nursery to select seedlings. How not to get lost among all the variety, how to choose high-quality planting material?

First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence of clothespins. Any fruit tree must be grafted, otherwise it is just a wild growth that is of no value and does not have varietal characteristics.

Next, you need to inspect the roots. It is desirable that they grow evenly on all sides of the trunk and do not have visible damage or cone-shaped growths. The bark should not be flaccid, dry or wrinkled. Before the sale of seedlings, all their leaves are removed to avoid dehydration of the tree.

Any, even an annual plant, prepared for planting, must have a height of at least one meter. Make sure that the trunk of the seedling is evenly developed.

Now you have learned to choose and are ready to start landing, but the question arises: when? Planting fruit trees in spring or autumn is entirely up to you. The optimal disembarkation time can be determined by many factors.

When to plant trees, spring or fall?

The very first rule is that trees should be planted when they are at rest. It happens in the fall, after the cessation of active growth, and in early spring - until the sap flow begins. But then another question arises. When to plant trees in spring, and when is it better to give preference to autumn landings?

Firstly, it depends on the climatic conditions of your region. In the northern regions and the middle lane, planting seedlings in the spring gives the best results. In autumn, young trees can freeze here. In places with sufficient snow cover, seedlings planted in autumn are protected from freezing by a layer of snow.

Secondly, the optimal planting time can also be determined by the type of seedlings. Some crops tolerate spring planting better, while others, on the contrary, fall.

What trees are best to plant in the spring

Many people wonder what trees are planted in spring? The answer is simple. In the spring, you can plant almost all fruit trees. There are times when spring planting is the only option. Some winter-resistant pears, plums, apple trees are doomed to death if they are planted in the fall. It is also desirable to plant sea buckthorn, cherries and apricots in spring.

When to plant trees in spring

It should start with the fact that you need to prepare for spring from the fall. You can choose a place in advance, dig a pit, enrich the soil with natural fertilizers. An important point is not to miss the time when it is best to plant trees in spring.

Beginning gardeners start planting young shoots with the onset of warm days, while they make a huge mistake. In order for young plants to take root, they should be rooted in a new place as soon as the snow melts, but keep in mind that the ground should not be frozen by this time.

Stop planting plants should be at least a week before the appearance of the kidneys. It is difficult to name specific numbers, as it depends on specific weather conditions.

Benefits of spring tree planting

• By planting a tree in the spring, you will have a harvest a year earlier than when planting in the fall.
• During the winter, you can properly prepare for spring work, draw up a schedule and work plan.
• Some garden work can be carried out in autumn or winter, for example, preparing fertilizers, forming pits for planting.
• During spring plantings, it is almost immediately clear which of the seedlings have taken up normally and started to grow, and which ones require additional care or transplantation.

What is problematic spring landing

• In spring, the range of planting material on the market is less than in autumn.
• After planting, it will be necessary to water the young seedling more often, protecting it from spring droughts.
• It is necessary to clearly select the time when to plant trees in the spring, to calculate so that the tree has time to take root before the start of sap flow.

Features of spring gardening

Inexperienced amateur gardeners believe that the way to plant a tree is the same at any time. In fact, each season has its own characteristics. Let's learn how to properly plant trees in spring.

The trees sit down before the onset of heat, so special attention should be paid to the ground. The soil may not be as soft and pliable as in autumn. To strengthen the adhesion of the roots to the ground, you need to additionally dip them in a clay mash. When planting, natural fertilizers, such as manure, are used.

The first time after planting, plants require careful care. Make sure that the soil does not dry out, try to hide young shoots from overly active sunlight.

In the spring, 5-7 days after planting, growth activators can be used - nitrogen fertilizers that promote the appearance of young shoots in the plant.

• In order not to miss the timing of spring planting, all preparatory work should be carried out in the fall.
• When choosing a landing site, consider the level of groundwater. It shouldn't be too high. It is also not recommended to plant trees in places of accumulation of melt water.
• Be sure to pay attention to the fertility of the soil. Apply fertilizer if the soil in the place where you are going to plant a tree is poor.
• Tall seedlings must be planted together with a support. It will protect fragile stems from gusty spring winds.

And most importantly, you need to remember: a tree is a living being and requires an appropriate attitude towards itself. Young seedlings, like small children, need constant attention and care, getting what they need, they will surely please you with a good harvest.

Planting fruit trees is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. Here you need to buy seedlings correctly, and prepare the place, and carry out all the necessary care activities. So that the trees you planted not only take root, but also give an excellent result in the form of a rich harvest, study the tips we have given.

So that you do not have problems growing fruit trees in the future, it is better to purchase seedlings in specialized stores or nurseries. There is one important tip - try to choose seedlings of those varieties that are suitable for growing in your area. Since when buying "overseas varieties" there is a high probability that such plants simply will not take root in your area.

Be careful when buying seedlings and pay attention to the following indicators.

ground water

If we are talking about vigorous seedlings with a long root system, then the depth of groundwater should be at least three meters. For semi-dwarf varieties, this figure should be no more than 2.5 m, and when planting dwarf fruit trees, the depth should be at the level of one and a half meters.

Soil quality

You should not choose a place for planting apple trees at random, because of which the trees may develop weakly, begin to bear fruit late or not take root at all. When choosing a place, you should focus on the requirements of cultures. For example, if you are going to plant apple trees, then for these plants you should choose forest soils, black soil, sod-podzolic soil.

Pears grow best on sandy loam, loam or slightly podzolized soils. Cherries prefer light loam.

illumination

For the normal development of the tree and the high-quality fruiting of fruit trees, they need high-quality lighting - the more sun, the larger the fruits will be. That is why it is best to plant seedlings on the south side of the site, choosing a place protected from the wind.

Square

The site must be selected after you have counted the number of seedlings. After that, determine that there should be a distance of about 7 m between the trees. If the trees grow thicker, this will lead to the fact that they will begin to grow not in breadth, but at the top and, when intertwined with branches, will begin to shade each other.

Age of seedlings

It is best to choose seedlings that are not yet two years old. To determine the age, you just need to study the planting material - on the seedlings suitable for us, there will be no branches on the trunk. Also, you should not choose trees that have branches, the roots are dry, there are growths on the stems - most likely, such seedlings are sick or old.

Own-rooted or grafted seedlings

It is best to purchase grafted seedlings, especially if you will be planting pear or apple trees. To understand if the seedling was grafted, pay attention to the trunk - it should be slightly curved.

Choosing the right time to plant trees

The timing of planting depends on the biological characteristics of the plant, climatic conditions. Pears and apples, for example, can be planted either in early spring or early autumn. But let's look at each season in more detail.

Spring

Spring planting begins immediately after the ice melts and should be completed two weeks before the appearance of the "eyes". When planting such fruit trees as pears, apple trees and cherries, it is necessary to choose a natural fertilizer - manure, which is applied directly to the hole before planting. After a couple of weeks, when the plant takes root, add growth activators to the ground.

Autumn

Fruit trees planted in autumn will take root almost 100%. This is due to the conditions: loose and moist soil, fairly warm weather - this is what contributes to the survival of plants. The main thing is not to forget to insulate the plants so that the frost does not destroy the young plantings.

Winter

Work in winter can only be carried out if we are talking about large-sized plants, but young seedlings are not planted in frozen soil - they will die.

Summer

Gardeners strictly do not recommend carrying out such work in the summer, because due to the heat, the root system of plants will not have enough moisture, which is why the survival rate drops sharply. Thus, the trees planted during this period will simply die.

Planting fruit trees in spring - step by step instructions

In order for the trees to take root, grow and yield a crop in a couple of years, you should carefully study our advice and plant according to a given pattern.

Land preparation

Clean the selected area of ​​weeds using mechanical control methods or the use of herbicides. Be sure to plow the land deep and add organic matter and mineral supplements to it (this process is called cultivation).

Well preparation

If you decide to plant in the spring, then the pits for seedlings should be prepared in the fall. To do this, make a square hole about 60 cm deep and up to 1.5 m in diameter for each seedling. Place old leaves, plant tops, cut branches in the resulting pit, cover it all with earth on top and leave until spring.

If you are going to carry out work in the fall, then prepare the holes in about a month and a half. Make holes for planting, put a layer of broken brick or river sand on the bottom, cover it all with a layer of rotted manure or peat on top, add mineral fertilizers. It remains to close the pit with a layer of earth and humus up to 10 cm thick.

An important point: some gardeners smooth the walls of the pit with a shovel, tamping the ground. Doing this is strictly not recommended, because it impairs the access of oxygen to the roots and limits the appearance of new roots.

Planting seedlings

After the soil settles a little, drive a wooden stake into the center of the hole - due to the stable support, the seedlings will not sway in the wind, which means that there will be no voids destructive for the trees between the soil and the roots.

The day before planting, remove broken branches from the seedlings, and cut the roots a little with a pruner.

An important rule when planting: the root neck of the seedling should be located above ground level. If it is deepened, this will lead to rotting of the bark and death of the plant.

To determine the root collar, just look at the seedling - this is the border on the bark, where it "flows" from green to brown. Also, when planting at a seedling, carefully straighten the roots and sprinkle them with soil. Do not forget to shake the plant a little so that the resulting voids between the roots are filled with soil. This will prevent them from drying out.

After planting, lightly compact the soil and pour it with a small stream of water - about 3 liters of liquid per tree. After the soil settles a little, water again.

For the first couple of years after planting, trees need to be looked after and simple care measures taken. So, you can not do without moderate, but regular watering, top dressing, loosening the soil and weed control. For example, in hot weather, after each watering or rain, the soil around the seedling needs to be loosened.

Be sure to mulch the soil around the trunk. It is best to use cut grass cereals, which will perform the following functions:

1. Aeration of the root system of fruit trees.
2. Weed protection.
3. Protection against freezing of the earth and roots.
4. Supply of organic matter.
5. Prevention of the appearance of an earthen crust.

True, it should be remembered that too wet soils do not need to be mulched - this can lead to rotting of the roots. In autumn, trees need to be insulated, protecting them from frost, for which you can use either coniferous "legs" or burlap. The first option also scares away rabbits and hares, who will not mind eating young bark.

Pear, apple and cherry are the most popular fruit trees in Russia. Let's look at the basic rules for their landing on the site.

Apple tree

If you have chosen early-growing varieties, then they usually bloom in the first year after planting, but the trees will not be fully developed, therefore, by the fall they will not be able to form a full-fledged crop.

For good survival, the buds of the trees are best cut off before they bloom.

Among the most adapted varieties of these fruit trees, the following are distinguished:

• Antonovka.
• Brown new.
• Oval.
• Candy.

Pear

Most varieties of pears are quite undemanding to the composition of the soil, but all the same, these trees will take root better and give good yields when planted in fertile soil. Also remember that young pear seedlings can die from drought, so they need to be watered abundantly in the first two years after planting.

Among the most popular varieties of pears are:

• Lada.
• Nectar.
• Allegro.

Cherry

When planting cherries, you need to carefully approach the choice of location, since the quality and quantity of its fruiting depend on it. Remember also that the root system of this tree is located close to the soil surface, and therefore is very sensitive to drought. For the same reason, loosening the soil should be carried out as carefully as possible.

It is best to choose the following varieties of cherries:

• Shubinka.
• Robin.
• Generous.

In contact with

Planting fruit trees is usually an integral part of the design of the area around a country house, even for people far from gardening. As for gardens, a rare allotment does without an apple or cherry tree. Some invite specialists to bookmark the garden, but if you wish, you can do it on your own.

Optimal timing

Theoretically, planting seedlings is possible at any time of the summer season. If everything is done correctly, then the tree will take root and begin to grow. But in order to reduce the risk of death, in order to avoid a long illness, it is advisable to adhere to the generally accepted landing dates: early spring and autumn.

The basic principle is to carry out all manipulations during the period of absence of active vegetation, when the seedling is still in hibernation or preparing for it. In the spring, planting is done before the buds swell (when the "green cone" has not yet appeared). In autumn, you should wait for the leaves to fall.

Spring planting is recommended for the northern regions, since in a short autumn the root system of a young tree does not have time to “grab” with the soil, which often causes freezing. , and peach take root better during spring planting (until mid-April), regardless of geographic location.

In the southern arid regions, it is preferable to plant fruit trees in autumn (October, November). The long rainy off-season gives them the opportunity to take root well, and the seedlings survive the winter safely.

Principles for placing seedlings on the site

When choosing seedlings of fruit trees, you should have a good idea of ​​​​their layout. It is possible to plant a whole collection in a limited area, but after 3-5 years the garden will be in disarray - the trees will begin to interfere with each other, diseases will actively spread. Since it is the lateral branches that actively bear fruit, it is necessary to observe the optimal distance between the seedlings. Usually it is equal to the height of an adult tree.

When planting trees within a land allotment in horticulture, one should also take into account the distance from the neighboring fence regulated by legislative norms (SNiP 30-02-97, SNiP 30-102-99): for tall (more than 15 m) - 4 m, for medium-sized (in this group includes most fruit species) - 2 m. If underground communications (power cable, water supply) are laid on the site, then trees should be planted 2 m from them, since developing roots can damage them.

Proper planning of the future garden will not only greatly simplify the care of it, but will also help to avoid problems with neighbors in the future due to shading of their site and the spread of roots.

Selection of seedlings

Fruit tree seedlings can be purchased from specialist shops or nurseries. It is advisable to decide in advance not only on the varieties of future inhabitants of the garden, but also on their varieties. You need to choose those that grow well and bear fruit in this particular region - zoned. A good nursery will offer quality planting material, but you should still familiarize yourself with the main criteria for selecting seedlings before buying.

For those who intend to seriously engage in gardening on their own, it is useful to know some of the terms that sellers often use when describing varieties of fruit trees.

• Rootstock - the roots and lower part of the trunk of the seedling.
• Scion - cuttings and buds grafted onto the trunk of another tree (rootstock).
• Cambium is a thin layer of active stem cells located between the subcortex (bast) and wood, responsible for the survival of the scion.
• The root neck is not the place of grafting (it is 8-10 cm higher), but the area where the root part of the seedling passes into the trunk. If the fruit tree was rooted by cuttings, then it does not have a graft.

Knowing what the above concepts mean, it is easier to communicate with the seller and navigate the assortment of planting material.

It is worth remembering the signs by which seedlings should be selected.

• The optimal age is 1.5-2 years. It is better to take with a crown of 2-3 branches.
• The height of the seedling is 120-140 cm, the trunk in diameter is no more than 12-15 mm.
• The root system of the stock should be well developed (4 large branches), fibrous (there is no downwardly directed central chopped root), not overdried, without obvious breaks and other damage. The length of the roots is from 25 to 30 cm. There should be no branches with a stock.
• The graft is ripe, elastic.
• The trunk and branches of a healthy seedling are even, without potholes, sagging, spots and traces of pests.

Particular attention is paid to the rootstock, since the appearance of the crown, the drought resistance of the tree, and the timing of the onset of fruiting depend on its type. Seed rootstocks are more powerful, resistant to drought. Dwarf ones begin to bear fruit faster, and from high ones, there is more yield, although it appears 3-4 years later.

Pit preparation

A fruit tree absorbs nutrients at a depth of 10 to 80 cm, so soil preparation for a seedling is required in this range. Not all gardening can boast of fertile soil, usually you have to make extra efforts when digging a hole:

• loosen the walls, if the soil is clayey and dense, equip drainage from crushed stone or expanded clay;
• compact the soil and create conditions for retaining moisture at the bottom of a hole dug in sandstones (clay or silt is used for this);
• with a high location of groundwater, it will be necessary to fill a hill with a height of about 1.5 m;
• apply fertilizer.

The pit for seedlings of pome fruit trees should be about 1 m wide and 60-70 cm deep. For stone fruits, the width is from 0.8 to 1.2 m, and the depth is from 50 to 60 cm.

The parameters of the pit, depending on the type of stock for the most popular inhabitants of the gardens - apple trees (diameter x depth, cm):

• for a vigorous one - 100-125 x 60;
• for semi-dwarf - 100 x 50;
• for dwarf (paradise) - 90 x 40.

When digging holes for fruit trees, it should be taken into account that the topsoil is fertile, it is laid aside, subsequently mixed with compost or rotted manure (15-20 kg). If the earth is clay, then 5-10 kg of sand is added.

Additional fertilizers are applied to the pit depending on the timing of planting. If the garden is laid in the spring, then mineral supplements are appropriate. It is better to use balanced complexes designed specifically for fruit trees (, "Fructus"). Application proportions: 30 g per 1 m 2 . In June, top dressing of seedlings is repeated. During autumn planting, potassium and phosphorus can be added.

When the pit is ready, the prepared mixture is poured onto the bottom with a mound, and a layer of black soil without fertilizers is additionally laid on it. The top of the embankment should almost reach the edge of the pit. This is the base on which the root system of the seedling will be located. If there is no mound, then the water accumulating at the bottom of the pit can lead to rotting of the roots.

Then the soil must be given time to shrink. For spring planting of fruit trees, pits are usually prepared in the fall. For autumn, it is enough if the pit stands for 2-3 weeks.

For fixation, a stake is driven into the pit at a distance of about 10 cm from the location of the seedling and protruding about 40 cm above the surface. Gardeners usually know which side of their site strong winds blow, the support must be installed there. Well, if there are 2 or 3 pegs - this way the tree is guaranteed to keep its “posture”. Many drive a support directly into the center of the pit, tying a seedling to it with a "loop-eight".

Seedling preparation

When inspecting the planting material, it is necessary to cut off all incapacitated roots (black, dried, soaked). To improve the survival rate of a seedling, it is advisable to immerse its root system in a solution of mullein and humus a day before planting. This procedure will revive and activate the suction functions.

If a seedling is purchased in a container, then its survival rate is much better, since the tree does not waste energy on restoring the root system. Such material is more expensive, but it can be planted at any time of the season without the risk of death.

If there is growth in the rootstock area, then it is carefully cut off near the trunk. Henceforth, it should not be allowed to appear and develop. All extra branches of the crown are also removed (it is optimal to leave 3 main ones). After drying, the wounds are smeared with garden pitch.

landing technique

The root system of the seedling is neatly placed on the sides of the mound at the bottom of the pit. Then a gradual backfilling with soil is carried out, which is periodically compacted along the edges to minimize the shrinkage of the tree.

Basic landing rules:

• the root neck should be at the level of the soil;
• the grafting site (stump on the side of the trunk) rises at a distance of 5 cm above the soil surface;
• usually the graft is oriented to the north, the rootstock stump to the south.

The level of the soil surface is easy to determine by placing a shovel handle across the pit.

After fixing, a small rim of earth is made around the seedling so that water does not spread when watering. About 2-3 buckets are spent on post-planting watering, but if the soil is clayey, then one is enough. The soil is poured gradually until it stops absorbing moisture. Then the trunk circle of a young tree is mulched. Usually 5-7 cm of peat or humus is poured. An important point: the area within a radius of 3-5 cm from the trunk of the seedling is not covered with mulch.

Hill Landing

If the groundwater on the site is located close to the surface, then it is better to plant fruit trees not in a pit, but on a hill. In this case, the sequence of actions is as follows.

1. A stake about 1.5 m long and 5-6 cm in diameter is driven into the center of the place chosen for landing.
2. Around the stake, in a radius corresponding to the width of the hole for a certain type of fruit tree, the soil is dug up to a depth of about 20 cm.
3. Compost or bulk manure is distributed over the dug up area at the rate of 8 kg per 1 m 2.
4. The seedling is placed next to the stake, neatly attached to it with a “figure of eight”. The roots are straightened and densely covered with a layer of nutrient soil mixture. It turns out a small mound, which is lined with turf.

As the tree grows, it is necessary to periodically sprinkle the earth, increasing the near-stem circle.

Protection and care

The first thing a young tree needs shortly after planting is position correction (if necessary) and watering. The latter is especially true if the season is dry and the soil is sandy. The root system should not experience a lack of moisture.

If the planting was carried out in the spring, then it is enough to whiten the stem to protect it from burns and pests.

And for the winter, seedlings need additional protection:

• the tree is tied with a special material, while the side branches are carefully attracted to the main ones;
• the trunk is spudded with earth by 30-40 cm (in the spring the mound is raked);
• a layer of mesh or a piece of roofing material is wrapped on the lower part of the seedling if hares or rodents hunt on the site in winter.

In the spring, all shelters are removed, the whitewash is renewed, antifungal agents are sprayed, and mineral fertilizers are applied to stimulate growth.

If the planting technique is followed, then from one seedling you can get a productive fruit tree that will actively grow and develop year after year with proper care. And in cases where planting material is purchased in large quantities and planted without planning, there will subsequently be less and less fruit due to the competition of trees for sunlight and nutrition. Also, various kinds of diseases arising from poor ventilation and lack of lighting will become constant companions of the garden.

Working with fruit trees is quite exciting and so addictive for many gardeners that they independently graft their favorite varieties onto existing species. In this way, you can get several varieties of apples or plums on one rootstock, significantly saving the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plot and money for seedlings.

The cost of good seedlings is incomparable with the mental and material costs that arise in the event of the death or poor growth of young plants.

Therefore, before planting trees with your own hands, it is important to learn a few rules regarding which seedlings to choose, when and how to plant pears, cherries and apples in a summer cottage.

How to choose seedlings of fruit trees before planting?

In order for the trees to grow quickly, not get sick and bear abundant fruit in the future, you need to buy seedlings in specialized outlets or in nurseries. Zoned seedlings that were grown in the same area where they are going to be planted will take root much faster than their counterparts brought from coastal regions.

What to look for when choosing fruit tree seedlings for planting

Groundwater at their summer cottage

• for vigorous trees with long roots, the depth of groundwater in the territory should not exceed 3 meters;

• semi-dwarf ones are planted in the ground, the underground waters of which rise no higher than 2.5 m;

• saplings of dwarf trees, with a superficial root system, need a plot with groundwater located at a level above 1.5 meters.

Soil quality

Picking a landing site at random is a mistake. Seedlings will develop poorly and will enter fruiting time with a great delay. If we talk about the addictions of fruit plants to soil conditions, then apple trees develop well on sod-podzolic, forest gray and chernozem soils of light composition with a neutral reaction. Pears love moist slightly podzolized soils, sandy loam and loam. Cherries are medium and light loams.

illumination

Fruit trees need good lighting. The more sun the plants receive, the larger and sweeter their fruits will be. Based on this, seedlings are planted on the southern (less often southwestern) side of the site, in a place protected from the winds.

The area of ​​the land

The area allotted for planting apple, pear and cherry trees is chosen after calculating the sum of the heights of all trees. That is, if different cultures grow in the garden with a height of 5 m, 4 m and 3 m, then they need to be planted from each other at a distance of 6-9 m. If you plant seedlings thicker, they will not die from this, but also developing, they will grow not in breadth, but upwards, intertwining with branches, interfering, fraying and shading each other.

Age of tree seedlings

The best option for planting will be a tree that is not yet 2 years old. How to determine the age of a seedling? The absence of branches on the trunk will help to identify such a seedling. Gardeners do not recommend purchasing plants with branches, overdried roots, with growths on the stem and leaves.

Grafted and own-rooted seedlings

Ask the seller what kind of seedling it is - grafted or own-rooted! Pears and apple trees must be grafted. Plums and cherries are much rarer.

How to tell if a seedling is grafted or not? If the inoculation was done by the kidney, then the stem of the seedling will be slightly twisted (another sign - look for a noticeable fine on the trunk). There are no signs of vaccination - it means that they are trying to deceive you!

The best option is to buy seedlings in a container or with an earthen clod that completely covers the root system. So that the roots (the standard of tree quality) of freshly dug plants do not dry out, they are planted within a couple of days after purchase. Fruit trees in containers are planted at any time convenient for the summer resident - from late autumn to early spring.

When should a tree be planted?

The timing of planting fruit trees is determined taking into account the biological characteristics of the variety and climatic conditions. Apple and pear trees are planted in two terms: in early autumn and early spring.

Planting trees in spring

Spring planting begins from the moment the last snow melts and ends ten days before bud break. For planting apple trees, cherries and pears, a natural product is used as fertilizer - fresh manure. They put him in the bottom of the pit. When the seedlings get used to it a little (after about a week), growth activators are introduced into the soil.

Planting trees in autumn

The survival of fruit trees planted during the rainy season (the time of biological dormancy of plants) is almost 100%. Loose, moisture-saturated soil and relatively warm air temperatures contribute to the stable survival of fruit seedlings. It is interesting that when planting plants in the fall before the onset of frost, the seedlings, before they go into hibernation and stop growing, have time to give young roots. The roots in a snowless winter will be protected by a layer of organic matter and mulch. The material was prepared for the site www.site

Planting trees in winter

Winter plantings are relevant when it comes to large-sized plants. Young seedlings of fruit trees are not planted in frozen ground.

Planting trees in summer

During the hot period, extensive evaporation occurs through the leaves. Short roots lack moisture and do not grow. Seedlings planted in summer are doomed to death.

How to plant trees on the site?

Step-by-step instructions for self-planting seedlings - recommendations for beginners

1. Soil preparation

The laying of the future orchard begins with the preparation of the soil. The site is cleared of weeds mechanically or by means of herbicides. Preplant cultivation is carried out - they plow deeply and fill the soil with mineral and organic fertilizers.

2. Preparation of holes for planting trees

If the planting of fruit trees is planned in the spring, then the soil and pits begin to be prepared in the fall. To do this, a square-shaped pit 50-70 cm deep is dug under each seedling, with sides from 1 to 1.5 m. Cut branches, old leaves, compost, tops and so on are laid in the pit. From above they are covered with earth and left to rot until spring planting.

For autumn planting, pits are prepared a month in advance. At the bottom, for good drainage, put crushed stone, a layer of broken bricks and coarse river sand. Then the planting pit is filled with rotted manure, peat and complex mineral fertilizers using a layer-by-layer method. From above, fertilizers are covered with soil mixed with humus, 5-10 cm thick.

Soil is poured into the pit in the form of a cone.

3. Planting seedlings in prepared soil

After the soil has settled, a stable wooden stake is hammered into the center of the pit. A reliable support will not allow the wind to shake the young plant and will not allow the formation of voids between the soil and the roots.

The day before planting, broken twigs and roots are removed from the seedlings, they are renewed, slightly pruned to healthy tissues with secateurs.

Planting Trees - Rule #1

The root neck of the seedling should be above the soil level. Significant deepening of the plant stem into the soil leads to decay of the bark and further death.

It is quite easy to determine the root neck on the trunk - this is the border of the transition of the bark of a tree from greenish to milky brown.

When landing, the top of the earthen cone should rest against the base of the trunk. The roots are carefully straightened along the slope and covered with soil, focusing on the root collar. It should be 5-6 cm above the ground surface.

While falling asleep with black soil, the tree is shaken a little so that the voids between the roots are filled with soil. Otherwise, they may dry out.

Near the trunk, the earth is slightly compacted with a foot and watered with a weak stream of water with the expectation of 3 buckets per tree. Waiting for the soil to settle a little. Water again and compact well.

After watering, the roots may stick out a little from the ground. They will go into the ground in a few days.

Planting a tree from a container

Planting a seedling with an earthen clod

Tree care after planting

In the first two years of life, young trees require a lot of attention. Moderate regular watering and top dressing, loosening and weed control are important. In dry times, the soil must be carefully loosened after each watering or occasional rain.

You can not ignore the mulching of trunk circles. Rotting mulch (cut grass of cereals) performs several useful functions at once:

• provides good aeration of the root system;

• protects the earth from drying out;

• does not allow weeds to germinate;

• protects against freezing of the soil in winter;

• provides seedlings with organic nutrients;

• prevents the appearance of soil crust.

Excessively moist soils do not mulch.

For the winter, the trees are insulated by tying the trunk with burlap or coniferous branches.

The first pruning of young trees is carried out in the second year of life.

Planting seedlings of fruit trees with your own hands - tips

How to plant an apple tree?

Early varieties of some apple trees may bloom in the first spring. But they are not yet developed enough to form a full-fledged crop in the fall. Therefore, for good survival, the buds are cut off even before they bloom. In the second year (provided that the plant develops without problems), a couple of dozen flowers are left on the tree.

Among the most easily adaptable varieties of apple trees, there are: Moscow Pear, Antonovka Ordinary, Summer Striped, Cowberry, Dessert Isaeva, Gift to Grafsky, Cinnamon New. Good varieties: "Chinese Kerr", "Arkadik", "Oval", "Medunitsa" and "Candy".

How to plant a pear?

Most pear species known to summer residents do not impose special requirements on exposure and soil composition. But pear trees take root and grow better on humus-rich, loose soils and well-lit areas. Young plants do not tolerate drought. In the early years, they need to be watered abundantly and often. Pears begin to bear fruit at the age of 3-8 years.

As a result of hybridization of species, specialists in the field of breeding have bred a huge number of interesting varieties. Among the popular ones: "Pear Klapp's Favorite", "Pear Lada", "Nectar Pear", "Cathedral", "Allegro", "Dibrovskaya", "Beauty Chernenko".

How to plant cherries

The fruiting of cherries largely depends on the place of planting on the site. Incorrect selection leads to poor growth and poor yields. The root system of cherries, located close to the surface, is sensitive to drought. Therefore, loosening after watering is done very carefully.

The gardens of our country are dominated by local winter-hardy varieties: Oktava, Crimson, Kentskaya, Shubinka, Rossoshanskaya Black, Rusinka, Polevka, Youth, Malinovka, Prima , "Turgenevka", "Lyubskaya", "Zhukovskaya", "Generous".

Planting a tree with your own hands - video

How to grow a tree from a seed?

Well-ripened seeds are washed and soaked in a stimulating solution for three days (the water is changed daily). Plant immediately in the fall. For planting in the spring, they are stored in the freezer for several months for the purpose of stratification.

Keep in mind that trees grown with your own hands from seeds grow very tall. Indeed, unlike the cultivated fruit species that all nurseries offer, they are not initially grafted onto a dwarf stock.