Fasteners and connections for wood on the construction of a house. Wooden fasteners: the main structural elements and methods for their installation (85 photos) Fixed without visible fasteners

Fastening the roof rafters of the house can be done in various ways, it all depends on the design features of the truss frame. The most important thing is that the connection is strong and can withstand various loads associated with the climatic conditions of the area.

Ways of fastening rafters

Before proceeding with the construction of the roof, it is important to understand all the intricacies of the process, in particular, how to attach the rafters to each other. It is possible to firmly connect the frame elements only with the help of special rafter fasteners. In this capacity, parts made of wood and metal can act.

The wooden elements that are used to connect the nodes of the truss frame include the following:

  • Bars.
  • Triangular scarves.
  • Nagel.
  • spikes.


The metal elements used for this purpose include the following:

  • Nails or screws.
  • Bolts complete with nuts and washers.
  • Staples and clamps.
  • Overlays.
  • Loops.
  • Anchor bolts.
  • Nail and toothed plates.
  • corners.
  • Perforated tape.

The use of one or another type of fastener is determined by the required strength of the structure, its geometry, as well as the magnitude of the load.

Rules for connecting the lower heels of the rafter legs

Most often, the rafters rest against the wall with their lower part, while the bundle of elements can be carried out in this way:

  • Directly to the Mauerlat.
  • Through ceiling beams.
  • With the help of puffs and rafters.
  • Using the strapping of the frame structure.
  • Attachment to the upper crown of a house made of logs or timber.


Installation of a hanging rafter system is carried out taking into account the fact that the rigid fastening of the upper part of the elements provides expansion pressure on the walls of the building. To reduce the degree of load, puffs are used that connect the rafter legs of one truss. In this case, the connection of the building wall occurs with a non-thrust triangle.

If you lay the ceiling beams perpendicular to the walls, you can avoid the use of puffs. A truss system without a Mauerlat is used in the construction of light mansard roofs, but taking into account the fact that a point load can be applied to the walls. For example, walls made of bricks or other piece materials cannot be subjected to point loads, in which case a Mauerlat is required. To create a roof overhang, the beams must protrude from the outer walls by about 0.5 meters. The rafters are also carried out to a similar distance, since their fastening is carried out at the edge of the beam.

The rafters should not be allowed to slide along the beams, so it is important to make the connection very strong. Only in this case it is possible to prevent deformations of the roof under certain loads.

Methods for attaching rafters to beams, walls, beams

For most private developers, the question of how to attach the rafters to the timber is relevant. Rafter legs can be fastened in the following ways:

  • Emphasis on the beam.
  • Focused tooth.
  • Spiked tooth.


The slope of the ramps determines the number of teeth. Using the listed methods, the load from one element of the truss frame can be transferred to another:

  • The use of a cut with a single tooth is allowed if the slopes have a slope of more than 35 degrees. In this situation, a tooth with a spike is placed in the heel of the rafter leg, and an emphasis and a socket for the spike are cut out in the beam. The main thing is that the nest does not go deeper by more than a third of the thickness of the beam. The notch should be placed at a distance of 0.25-0.35 m from the edge of the beam, which is located behind the plane of the wall. The presence of a spike does not allow the rafter leg to move laterally.
  • For a roof with slopes of a slight slope, up to 35 degrees, the installation of rafters involves an increase in the contact area of ​​​​the rafter leg and the beam to increase the supporting area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure. To do this, make a cut into two spikes, into a lock, with an emphasis and a spike or without a spike.

The connection of rafters and beams can also be carried out by means of bolts or bolts and clamps.

Options for attaching rafters to the Mauerlat

The rafters are fastened to the wall in most cases by means of a Mauerlat. This element is designed to evenly distribute the load from the roof structure to the load-bearing walls of the building and its foundation. There are two ways to attach the rafter legs to the Mauerlat: rigid and sliding mount.

Rigid mount

This method of connection does not allow the connected structural elements to move, bend or rotate. You can achieve this result in the following case:

  • If you use metal corners for rafters, which will connect the rafters to the hemmed support beam. In this case, the rafter leg rigidly abuts against the support beam and is fixed with the help of steel corners, which are located on the sides of the connected elements. It is the corners that do not allow the element to move in the transverse direction.
  • If you perform washed down on the rafter leg and secure it with staples, nails or wire. In this case, the fastening of the rafters with nails is carried out from both sides of the connection node, and the third - to the lower part of the element in the vertical direction.

In both cases, additional fixation of the rafters and walls of the house is required using wire or anchor bolts.


sliding mount

The structural elements connected in this way are able to move relative to the Mauerlat to an acceptable distance. Such fasteners for rafters are obtained as a result of washing down the rafters and fastening them with staples or nails. In addition, you can use "sleds" - special sliding fasteners for rafter legs.


Sliding fastening of beams to Mauerlat is popular in wooden housing construction, which is characterized by natural shrinkage. The use of a sliding joint in this case prevents the deformation of the truss system. The sliding of the rafter legs allows the roof structure to adjust to the changing shape of the main structure. Installation of the remaining roof elements is carried out according to the standard scheme.

Fastening rafters in the ridge zone

The rafters and the ridge are connected using a special technology, which implies the following options:

  • Butt joint - is considered the most reliable option. To do this, the rafter legs in the upper part are cut at an angle that corresponds to the slope of the slopes of the future roof. In some places, the cuts of the rafters are interconnected and fixed with nails of at least 150 mm in size. Fasteners must enter at a certain angle and pass into the opposite rafter, providing a tight connection. You can connect the rafter legs end-to-end with metal or wooden linings. They are located at the junction, while metal linings are fastened with bolts, wooden ones with nails.
  • Mounting on a ridge beam also involves sawing off the upper part of the rafter legs at a certain angle. However, each rafter element is attached to the ridge run individually.
  • Overlapping can be called the simplest way, in which the rafter legs are applied to each other with side planes, without sawing off the upper edges. It is important to know how to fasten the rafters together. For fixing use bolts or studs with washers.


So that the installation of the truss frame does not seem too complicated, it is recommended to use pre-prepared templates from the boards. To do this, take the material corresponding to the size of the rafters and make appropriate cuts on it. According to the template, all rafter legs are prepared and raised to the roof.

Lathing installation

Properly installed crate is the key to a reliable roof. Depending on the chosen roof covering, the crate can be made solid or sparse.

In most cases, bars or boards are used to make the crate. The bars are fixed with one fastener in the joint, the board is nailed with two nails, which are placed along the edges. It is not recommended to nail the board with one nail, as in this case it can lead to twisting of the material under heavy loads.


It is allowed to use short lumber for the crate. Splicing of elements must be done directly on the rafters, while fixing the ends of both connected parts. The joints of the elements of the crate in adjacent rows are recommended to be placed on different rafters.

For high-quality installation of the rafter frame, you need to choose the most correct fastening of the rafters.

One of the options for placing flat-panel TVs is to mount them on the wall. This solution allows you to save space, while everything looks stylish, modern. But factory-made brackets, despite their great functionality, have one drawback - they are overpriced. Since the bracket scheme is simple, it can be made independently from any materials available. Let's take a closer look at how to do this.

Basic requirements for mounting a TV

Most TVs on the market use the VESA mount system. Based on typical hole spacings (in millimeters), various mounting modules are offered. Usually these are four mounting points, which are located on the rear panel. The "four" VESA scheme is made in the form of a square or a slightly elongated rectangle. The fixing points can already be fitted with standard fixing bolts. If they are not there, then they are in a separate package or with other components.

It is impossible to mount a TV, which is especially important for expensive branded models, on non-standard fasteners. Therefore, the bolt heads are often designed for special tools, and the holes are filled with soft plastic. In such cases, installation of the product on a factory-made bracket must be done by a certified technician. Without his mark in the warranty card on the work done, all warranty obligations are canceled!

When installing standard dowel brackets on main walls, it is recommended to choose steel, at least propylene. For walls made of foam block, cinder block - only propylene. Self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4 mm or more, or such as the first digit of the screen diagonal size (in inches). The depth of the self-tapping screw in the load-bearing wall without the thickness of the finish should be:

  • for concrete walls - 10 mm plus the diagonal size in centimeters;
  • for brick walls - 30 mm plus the diagonal size;
  • for foam block walls - 50 mm plus the diagonal size.

The requirements listed above do not apply to plasterboard walls, since they do not have good bearing capacity. If the sheets fit snugly against the main wall, then the installation is carried out directly on the wall. Then, under the diameter of the dowel head, holes of the corresponding diameter are drilled in the sheet. And having placed a spacer made of a steel bar on the dowels, a 6-sided socket wrench, tapping with a hammer, upsets them until they fit into place.

If the drywall sheets are fixed to the frame and the skin thickness is less than 12 mm, then you will have to look for another place or install the TV on the cabinet. The only possible option is if you know the location of the frame that can be used to attach the bracket.

Fixed wall bracket structures

One of the most common designs is the fixed bracket. The mounting system is very simple, but it cannot be tilted or rotated. The fixed TV wall mount is easy to mount and can be made from any component that is affordable or easy to find.

Consider the option of making a fastener made of wood. Main materials:

  • two wooden planks;
  • self-tapping screws with a ring;
  • hooks and plastic dowels.

We take two planks of hardwood, they have the best quality. The length of the slats should exceed the length of the back wall of the flat-screen TV housing by 10-15 centimeters. To ensure that the screen tilts at a slight angle, we take the upper bar slightly thicker than the lower one. We fasten two self-tapping screws with a ring to the upper edge of each of the planks.

With the help of bolts, which we twist into special holes, we fix the strips on the back wall of the TV. One bar on the top and one on the bottom. Between the rings we measure the distances horizontally and vertically, and transfer them to the wall. We get attachment points. We drill holes in them, install dowels with hooks and hang the product on them.

This wall mount is easy to manufacture and very reliable. Suitable for models whose screen diagonals exceed 26 inches.

Consider another simple option for making a fixed wall bracket. We will install a small diagonal product on aluminum corners and a bicycle spoke. Steel corners can also be taken, but since the loads on the fastening are insignificant, and steel is difficult to process, aluminum is preferable.

Main materials:

  • four aluminum corners;
  • one bicycle spoke 2 mm thick;
  • bolts, screws, plastic dowels.

We select the installation location of the flat TV, the size of the dowels and holes individually, taking into account its size. We fasten two corners with two holes drilled on each to the back cover with bolts. The other two - on the wall with screws. To do this, we apply them to the wall and mark the holes for the dowels on the wall with a pencil. Fasteners are best done with plastic dowels. To connect the corners to each other in the upper side of each of them, we drill one hole.

It is desirable that one pair go inside the other, so we make the distance between the corners fixed on the wall a couple of millimeters smaller than the distance between the corners on the TV. Having attached them in place, we apply the TV to the wall. We expose the holes drilled in the upper side plane of each corner in one line, and thread a bicycle knitting needle through them.

The spoke holds the product in a vertical plane, and the corners inserted into each other prevent its involuntary displacement in the horizontal plane. If the TV needs to be removed from the wall, then we take out the spoke and the connection is disengaged.

Despite its small diameter, the heat-treated bicycle spoke can easily support the weight of smaller models. But for heavier ones, larger diameter studs are needed!

Swivel structures – more freedom of action

Swivel designs provide greater freedom of action: turning the screen in the right direction, its approximation. Some types of designs adjust the vertical angle of the screen, which is necessary when the product is suspended high. Therefore, the swivel wall mounted TV mount provides convenient viewing from anywhere in the room.

Main materials:

  • two metal plates;
  • piece of pipe, square profile;
  • connecting bolts, screws, dowels.

For the manufacture of an inclined bracket, we take two metal plates. The larger the diagonal of the TV, and the greater its weight, the larger the plate you need to take. For small models, we take two plates 20x20 cm, a few millimeters thick. One will be attached to the wall, and the other on the back panel. We install two metal corners on each plate.

In order for the mount to have sufficient freedom of movement in any direction, we install a piece of pipe between the corners. But it is better to use a 2x2 cm square profile, since it will be more convenient to fix it, set it in a plane.

We place a piece of pipe between two corners and connect it with a long bolt. Then screw it onto the plate. The pipe (profile) must rotate freely and not touch the end of the plate.

To the wall-mounted plate, we fix the corners parallel to the floor. This will allow you to change the angle of the TV to the right or left. And the corners on the plate mounted on the rear panel are set perpendicular to the floor. This will allow you to adjust the angle of inclination.

To increase the mobility of the system, instead of one piece of pipe, it is better to use two connected by a long bolt. This will allow you to zoom in or out of the screen, adjust the distance from the wall.

Thus, we can make any type of bracket with our own hands. It does not require special knowledge, and material costs are minimal. Having shown imagination, you can improve the design and make it more interesting, individual. Paint in a color that goes well with the interior of the room. At the end of the work, you can watch your favorite programs and series with great comfort!

For the use of various wood compounds in the field of construction, not only tools are indispensable, but also without appropriate experience. That is why for inexperienced craftsmen such connections are not always obtained accurately. One of the best options is for professionals to use a variety of array fasteners that are made of metal.

Many surviving architectural monuments made of wood were built without nails, using only an axe. This fact causes true pleasure to this day. However, centuries later, fasteners erected from metal, used to build solid wood structures, have changed radically, for this very reason it is pointless to repeat the experience of our ancestors today.

It is preferable to erect quickly and without difficulties. Let's talk in more detail about the fasteners offered by manufacturers, taking as an example the details that make it possible to simplify the connection of beams with floor logs or solid wall surfaces as much as possible.

Fasteners with perforation

When beams, as well as logs of the floor surface are hidden in the interior space, it is possible to connect them using beam shoes. This fastener for wood structures is suitable for fixing the array not only to wood, but also to concrete, brickwork. It is made from durable steel.


Manufacturers advise fastening such fasteners to the parts to be joined with special screws, and in case of excessive load, or fixing to stone material, use the holes for the necessary bolts. In addition to anchor shoes, today you can purchase special clamps, and much more.

tenon groove

This galvanized wood fastener consists of a tenon part and a groove part, which are joined together to ensure better transmission of horizontal as well as vertical forces.

The connection can be visible or hidden; for this purpose, steel parts are recessed in advance into special grooves.

Reiki three-dimensional

A modern Italian company produces fasteners that are placed perpendicularly and vertically at an angle, using T-type rails, created by extrusion from a high-strength steel alloy. They are produced in several modifications, provided for multi-level loads.

The fastening system must be selected according to the size range of the cross-sections of the combined beams and the dynamic and static loads acting on them.

During installation, the rack base is attached to the beam by means of self-tapping screws. Then, on the end part, attached to the base of the log beam, a groove is created of the same size as the rack shelf. In the absence of perforation, the shelf is equipped with a lag and the connection is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Hidden details Hedgehog

These connectors are steel washers, the base of which is equipped with holes drilled under the slope. These holes are for self-tapping screws. There is a threaded hole in the center of the washer into which a pin is inserted. Its free end is threaded into a special hole and fastened on the back side of the beam with a part with a washer.

The created connection works perfectly not only for pulling, but also for shearing. With excessive load in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe end part of the log, it is possible to install several elements at the same time.

Fasteners with complex thread

Unusual self-tapping screws, which make it possible to save time, money, since this option does not require metal parts. The self-tapping screws are threaded to help create a high degree of pull-out resistance, as well as being tightly screwed into an array that completely changes their traditional function.

In this case, the work of the screws is exclusively for pulling out, which gives them the opportunity to take most of the effort that falls on the connection. So, you can fasten elements at an angle, combine parts, minimizing their deflection, as in the photo of wood fasteners below.


Self-tapping screws for special purposes

Using such elements, rather massive wooden products are fastened. The hat has milled ribs and is easily recessed into the product, while the tip is created like a drill. In the middle of the screw, the cutter makes a larger hole, helping to pull the element as tightly as possible.

Self-tapping self-tapping screw will be useful for fastening door frames, window openings, solid wood sheathing to wood, metal. The self-tapping screw is screwed directly into the box, as well as the wall surface located behind it, or a power part.

The self-tapping screw acts as a weather vane for high-quality fastening of solid wood sheathing to a base made of steel. It has a tip in the form of a drill and wings placed above it to expand the hole in the tree.

When drilling metal products, the wings break. As a result, having made a thread in a metal part, the self-tapping screw fits snugly against it, while the element from the array is attracted by the cap to the metal.

Photo of wooden fasteners

In this article I will try to consider the main ways of connecting furniture parts, providing them, if possible, with installation tips with diagrams and comments.

So, the easiest option for attaching metal or plastic parts (metaboxes, coat hooks, mounting angles) to chipboard, the chipboard sheets themselves between themselves and the sheets to the walls is self-tapping screws. They can be with countersunk heads (in Fig. No. 1, 3,4,5,6), with press washers (in Fig. No. 2) and dowel-nails (in Fig. No. 7), which are used for driving / twisting into walls.

Screws are marked with two values. the first number indicates the thread diameter, the second - the total length. Naturally, the larger the diameter and length, the greater the load the self-tapping screw will withstand.

pros

  • ease of use,
  • Cheapness

Minuses:

  • Relatively low load capacity.

For tightening, a screwdriver / screwdriver with an appropriate bit is used - usually a Phillips bit. To avoid cracking of workpieces, it is necessary to pre-drill the mounting holes - with a drill bit smaller in diameter than the thread size. Under the hat, you need to drill a recess. I usually do this with a screwdriver bit.

A reinforced version of self-tapping screws, besides looking somewhat more aesthetically pleasing, are confirmations(or euro screws). They differ from ordinary screws in their greater thickness, thread pitch, cylindrical head for a hexagon and a blunt end.

Two main sizes of confirms are used: 50 mm and 75 mm. The former are more common and convenient for tightening 16 mm chipboard, while the latter are best used to work with 26 mm chipboard.

pros

  • together,
  • Significant holding power

Minuses

  • Through fastening, which implies a hat visible on the surface (can be closed with decorative plugs),
  • Instability to assembly and disassembly (the connection after only 3-4 cycles of assembly and disassembly practically loses its fixing properties).

This method of fastening allows you to repeatedly assemble and disassemble furniture, especially in the case of using a futorka, without losing the strength of the connection.

This advantage is more than offset by the complexity of manufacturing. For installation you will need: cylindrical drills (for wood or metal) with a diameter of 5 and 8 mm (5 mm should be with a limiter), with a diameter of 15 mm. It is advisable to use a furniture jig for accurate assembly.

pros

  • Stealth (outside visible fasteners are not visible)
  • Possibility of pulling parts together

Minuses

  • Inside the product, a rather large eccentric remains visible - 15 mm, which must be hidden (with a plastic or self-adhesive plug)
  • Complexity (3 parts, 3 holes, special tools)

Eccentric coupler VB35 MD/16 differs from the minifix in the structure of the eccentric and the short stem. It is used mainly for hanging shelves, although it is also perfect for various kinds of covers and tabletops. There are two options for rods, short (for hanging shelves on one side) and long (if the shelves should be on the same level on both sides of the vertical rack. At the same time, the rod passes through the parts, protruding symmetrically on both sides).

The eccentric itself in this version is closed in a decorative casing (metal or plastic), the color of which can be matched to the color of the laminated chipboard. It looks quite original, and there is no need to hide it. The eccentric is wrapped from below, if necessary, you can drill an additional hole on top of the shelf, which then will have to be closed with a plug.

pros

  • invisible from the outside
  • No need to hide the eccentric inside the finished product
  • Ability to pull parts
  • Ease of making a connection (only 2 holes, instead of three in a minifix)
  • Ease of installation (the shelf is simply thrown over the top, after which it is fixed)
  • Possibility of multiple assembly and disassembly

Minuses

  • Expensive (price about 15 rubles per set)
  • The need for a specialized tool (Forstner cutter)
  • The fastening force is less than that of confirmations

Furniture coupler it is used mainly for pulling together several cabinets into a single unit (for example, in kitchens). It is a threaded connection with two heads for Phillips and flat screwdrivers.

For application, only a drill of a suitable diameter and a screwdriver are needed.

pros

  • Significant holding force
  • Ease of installation
  • Ability to pull parts

Minuses

  • Narrow specialization (the ability to tighten only parallel parts),
  • Visible heads

It consists of as many as five parts: the tie itself, two fittings and two bolts with a countersunk head. To work, you will need a 10 mm drill, a screwdriver, a hexagon (we twist metal fittings) or a hammer (we hammer plastic fittings).

pros

  • Significant connection strength
  • Unpretentiousness to marking holes
  • Easy to make (2 holes)
  • Possibility of multiple assembly and disassembly
  • Invisibility from the outside of the product
  • Ability to pull parts

Minuses

plastic corners a simple and cheap way to connect parts. It differs from the previous one in greater aesthetics and ease of installation (no need to drill anything at all - it is attached to simple self-tapping screws, but much less durable. Today, a large number of colors are produced - you can match the color of chipboard so that the element is not conspicuous.

Their variety is metal corners with plastic cover have the same advantages and disadvantages, with the exception of a slightly higher connection strength (of course, they do not reach the aluminum screed, but they are no longer a plastic corner).

Minuses

  • Dimensions (interferes with the installation of other fittings),
  • Low connection strength
  • The impossibility of tightening parts,
  • The impossibility of repeated assembly and disassembly,

In conclusion, I will say that in order to choose furniture fittings that are optimal in your case, you should remember a few simple rules:

The fittings must withstand the expected load with some margin;

Fixing elements on the finished product should be as invisible as possible;

Fastener elements accessible to the eye must be closed with decorative caps (plastic or self-adhesive);

Consider the possibility of subsequent assembly and disassembly of the product.

FOR A BEGINNER FURNITURE MANUFACTURER, I WOULD RECOMMEND TO USE CONFIRMATIONS AND SELF-TAPPING SCREWS, SOMETIMES ADDITIONAL TO THEM WITH DIFFERENT CORNERS. IN MOST CASES THIS IS ENOUGH FOR A STRONG AND NOT HIGHLY VISIBLE CONNECTION.

Fitting © 2022 Design and interior of apartments