Facing the basement of the house with your own hands. Facing the basement of the house with your own hands: stone, polyurethane and resin tiles How to finish the basement from the outside

Basement cladding performs an important function - protecting the foundation of the house. In addition, being part of the facade, it has a decorative value. How to arrange the base and what materials to use for this?

Peculiarities

The basement of the building, that is, the protruding part of the foundation in contact with the facade, provides protection and increases the thermal efficiency of the building. At the same time, it is subjected to increased mechanical stress, more than others it is exposed to moisture and chemical reagents. In winter, the basement freezes, as a result of which it can collapse.

All this necessitates the protection of the plinth, for which special heat and waterproofing materials are used, a more reliable finish.

We must not forget that this part of the house is a continuation of the facade, so it is important to take care of the aesthetic appeal of finishing materials for the basement.

Among the main technical requirements for basement materials, there are:

• High moisture resistance- it is important that moisture from the outer surface of the base does not penetrate through the thickness of the finish. Otherwise, it will lose its attractive appearance and lose its performance. There will be a wetting of the insulation (if any), the surfaces of the basement. As a result - a decrease in the thermal efficiency of the building, an increase in air humidity, the appearance of an unpleasant musty smell, mold inside and outside the building, the destruction of not only the basement, but also the facade, flooring.

• Depends on moisture resistance frost resistance tiles. It should be at least 150 freezing cycles.
• Mechanical strength- the plinth experiences loads more than other parts of the facade, including mechanical damage. On how durable the tile is, its durability and the safety of the plinth surfaces depend. The load of the wall panels is transferred not only to the plinth, but also to its finishing materials. It is clear that with insufficient strength of the latter, they will not be able to evenly distribute the load over the foundation and protect it from excessive pressure.
• Temperature resistance- cracking of the material during temperature fluctuations is unacceptable. Even the slightest crack on the surface causes a decrease in the wet strength of the facing product, and, as a result, frost resistance. Water molecules that have fallen into cracks under the influence of negative temperatures turn into ice floes that literally tear the material apart from the inside.

Some types of tiles tend to expand slightly under the influence of temperature fluctuations. This is considered the norm (for example, for clinker tiles). To avoid deformation of the tiles and their cracking allows the preservation of the inter-tile gap during installation.

As for the criterion of aesthetics, it is individual for each buyer. Naturally, the material for the plinth should be attractive, combined with the rest of the facade and exterior elements.

Why is it necessary?

Finishing the basement of the building allows you to solve several problems:

• Plinth and foundation protection from the negative effects of moisture, high and low temperatures and other negative natural factors that reduce strength, and therefore reduce the durability of the surface.
• Contamination protection, which represent not only an aesthetic problem, as it might seem at first glance. The composition of the dirt contains aggressive components, for example, road reagents. With prolonged exposure, they can damage even such a reliable material as concrete, causing erosion on the surface.

• Increasing the biostability of the foundation- modern facade materials prevent damage to the foundation by rodents, prevent the appearance of fungus or mold on the surface.
• Foundation insulation, which helps to increase the thermal efficiency of the building, and also helps to maintain the integrity of the material. It is known that with a significant decrease in temperature, erosion forms on the concrete surface.
• Finally, finishing the plinth element has a decorative value. With the help of this or that material, it is possible to transform the house, to achieve its maximum compliance with a certain style.

The use of tiles, as well as brick or stone surfaces, allows you to give the building a cost-effective look, add sophistication.

Varieties of basement structures

In relation to the surface of the facade, the plinth can be:

• speaking(that is, slightly protruding forward compared to the wall);
• sinking relative to the facade (in this case, the facade is already moving forward);
• flush with façade.

Most often you can find a protruding base. It is usually arranged in buildings with thin walls, equipped with a warm basement. The base in this case plays an important thermal insulation role.

If in a similar building the plinth is made flush with the facade, then increased humidity in the basement cannot be avoided, which means dampness inside the building. When performing thermal insulation of such a base, you will have to face the difficulties of choosing and installing a heater.

Socles of the sinking type are usually organized in buildings that do not have a basement. They are better than others protected from the negative effects of the environment. The basement lining will perform the supporting function. With this system, it is easiest to perform high-quality multi-layer hydro- and thermal insulation.

Features of the base depend on the type of foundation.

So, the plinth on the strip foundation performs a bearing function, and for a pile-screw foundation, it performs a protective one. For a basement on piles, a sinking-type basement is usually organized. It is suitable for both wooden and brick houses that do not have a warm underground.

materials

There are many types of materials for the design of the basement. The most common are the following:

Clinker tiles

It is an environmentally friendly material based on clay, subjected to molding or extrusion and high-temperature firing. The result is a reliable, heat-resistant, moisture-resistant material (moisture absorption coefficient is only 2-3%).

It is characterized by durability (minimum service life of 50 years), chemical inertness, and wear resistance. The front side imitates brickwork (from smooth, corrugated or aged bricks) or various stone surfaces (wild and processed stone).

The material does not have low thermal conductivity, so it is recommended to use it together with insulation or use clinker panels with clinker.

The latter are standard tiles with a polyurethane or mineral wool insulation fixed on the underside of the material. The thickness of the layer of the latter is 30-100 mm.

The disadvantage is the rather large weight and high cost (although this finishing option will be more cost-effective compared to clinker bricks). Despite the high strength indicators (which is equal to M 400 on average, and the maximum is M 800), loose tiles are extremely fragile. This must be taken into account during transport and installation.

Wet clinker is mounted(that is, on a wall or a solid crate with glue) or dry(assumes fastening to a metal frame by means of bolts or self-tapping screws). When fastening with the second method (it is also called a hinged facade system), a ventilated facade is usually arranged. A mineral wool insulation is laid between the wall and the cladding.

If thermal panels are used, there is no need for an insulating layer.

Brick

When finishing with a brick, it is possible to achieve reliability and high-quality moisture protection of surfaces. The advantage is the versatility of the finish. It is suitable for any type of base, and also has a wide selection of facing bricks (ceramic, hollow, slotted and hyper-pressed variations).

If the plinth itself is made of red baked brick, then it performs 2 functions at once - protective and aesthetic, that is, it does not need to be lined.

In view of the rather large weight, brick facing masonry requires the organization of a foundation for it.

The organization of masonry requires certain professional skills, and the type of finish itself is one of the most expensive. Such cladding will cost more than using clinker tiles.

A natural stone

Finishing the plinth with natural stone will ensure its strength, resistance to mechanical damage and shock, and moisture resistance. All this guarantees the durability of the material.

For decoration, granite, gravel, dolomite versions of the stone are usually used. They will provide maximum strength to the considered part of the facade.

Marble cladding will allow you to get the most durable, but very expensive surface.

From the point of view of convenience, flagstone cladding should be preferred. The latter combines different types of materials characterized by a flat, tile-like shape and a small (up to 5 cm) thickness.

The large weight of natural stone complicates the process of its transportation and installation and requires mandatory additional reinforcement of the base. The complexity of finishing and high cost cause a high price for the material.

The stone is fixed on a pre-primed surface, the material is fixed with a frost-resistant cement mortar. After hardening, all seams are treated with hydrophobic grout.

Fake diamond

These shortcomings of natural stone prompted technologists to create a material that has the advantages of natural stone, but is lighter, easier to install and maintain and affordable. They became an artificial stone, which is based on fine-grained crumbs of granite or other high-strength stone and polymers.

Due to the peculiarities of the composition and technological process, natural stone is distinguished by its strength, increased moisture resistance, and weather resistance. Its surfaces do not emit radiation, are biodegradable, easy to clean (many have a self-cleaning surface).

Release form - monolithic slabs, the front side of which imitates natural stone.

Fastening is carried out on a flat primed surface using special glue or on a crate.

Panels

The panels are sheets based on plastic, metal or fiber cement (the most common options are indicated), the surface of which can be given any shade or imitation of wood, stone, brickwork.

All panels are characterized by resistance to moisture and UV rays, heat resistance, but have different strength indicators.

Plastic models are considered the least durable. With a strong enough impact, they can become covered with a network of cracks, so they are rarely used for finishing the basement (although manufacturers provide collections of PVC basement panels).

Metal siding is a more reliable option.

Light weight, corrosion protection, ease of installation - all this makes the panels popular, especially for those foundations that do not have additional reinforcement.

Fiber cement panels are based on concrete mortar. To improve the technical properties and lighten the weight, dried cellulose is added to it. The result is a durable material, which, however, can only be used on solid foundations.

The surface of fiber cement-based panels can be painted in a certain color, imitate the finish of natural materials or be characterized by the presence of a sprinkle - stone chips. To protect the front side of the material from fading, ceramic coating is applied to it.

All panels, regardless of type, are attached to the frame. Fixation is carried out by means of brackets and self-tapping screws, the reliability of adhesion of the panels to each other, as well as their wind resistance are achieved due to the presence of a locking system.

Plaster

Installation is carried out in a wet way, and this type of finish requires perfectly flat plinth surfaces. To protect plastered surfaces from exposure to moisture and sunlight, acrylic-based moisture-proofing compounds are used as a finishing coating.

If necessary, to obtain a colored surface, you can paint the dried layer of plaster or use a mixture containing pigment.

Popular called "mosaic" plaster. It contains the smallest stone chips of different colors. After application and drying, it creates a mosaic effect, iridescent and changing shade depending on the angle of lighting and viewing.

Available in the form of a dry mix, which is mixed with water before use.

Polymer sand tiles

Differs in durability, moisture impermeability and heat resistance. Thanks to the sand base, it is light in weight.

The polymer component ensures the plasticity of the tile, which eliminates its cracking and the absence of chips on the surface. Outwardly, such a tile is similar to clinker, but it is much cheaper.

A significant disadvantage is the lack of additional elements, which complicates the installation process, especially when finishing buildings with complex configurations.

The tile can be attached to the glue, but another method of installation has become widespread - on the crate. In this case, using polymer-sand tiles, it is possible to create an insulated ventilated system.

Porcelain stoneware

When finished with porcelain stoneware, the building acquires a respectable and aristocratic appearance. This is because the material imitates granite surfaces. Initially, this material was used for cladding administrative buildings, but due to its exquisite appearance, impressive service life (half a century on average), strength and moisture resistance, it is increasingly used for cladding the facades of private houses.

profiled sheet

Sheathing with a profiled sheet is an affordable and easy way to protect the plinth. True, there is no need to talk about special decorative qualities.

decoration

Decorating the basement can be done not only through the use of facade materials. One of the simplest and most affordable options is to paint the basement with suitable compounds.(required for outdoor work, frost-resistant, weather-resistant).

By choosing a color, you can highlight the plinth or, on the contrary, give it a shade that is close to the color scheme of the facade. Using special materials and 2 types of paint close in tone, stone imitation can be achieved. To do this, strokes of darker paint are applied to a lighter layer of paint after it dries, which are then rubbed.

Decorating the plinth with plaster will be a little more difficult. The plastered surface may have a flat surface or be characterized by the presence of decorative reliefs, which also make it possible to imitate a stone base.

If there are columns, their lower part is also lined with the material used to decorate the basement. This will achieve the stylistic unity of the elements of the building.

Preparatory work

The quality of the preparatory work depends on the indicators of hydro- and thermal insulation of the basement, and hence the entire building.

Basement waterproofing involves its external protection, as well as isolation from groundwater. To do this, a trench is dug around the entire perimeter of the base near it, the depth of which is 60-80 cm with a width of 1 m. With a strong shedding of the soil, the reinforcement of the trench with a metal mesh is shown. The lower part of it is covered with gravel - this is how drainage is provided.

The surface of the plinth is cleaned, treated with water-repellent impregnations, and insulated.

Preparation of the visible part of the plinth for cladding involves leveling the surface and treating it with a primer for better adhesion with finishing materials.

If a hinged system is used, you can not waste time and effort on correcting minor defects. Of course, preparatory work in this case also involves cleaning and leveling surfaces, installing a frame for cladding.

Preparatory work should be carried out at temperatures above 0 degrees, in dry weather. After applying the primer, it must be allowed to dry.

Drain device

Low tides are designed to protect the plinth from moisture flowing down the facade, primarily during rain. The plinth with one part is fixed to the lower part of the facade at a small (10-15 degrees) angle, which contributes to the collection of moisture. Since this element hangs over the plinth by 2-3 cm, the collected moisture flows to the ground, and not to the surface of the plinth. Visually, the tide seems to separate the facade and the plinth.

As an ebb, strips 40-50 cm wide made of waterproof materials are used. They can be sold ready-made or made by hand from a suitable strip. The design and color of the structure is selected taking into account the appearance of the finish.

Depending on the material used, there are:

• metal (universal) ebbs;
• plastic (usually combined with siding);
• concrete and clinker (applicable for stone and brick facades) analogues.

Plastic models, despite the high moisture resistance, are rarely used, due to their low strength and low frost resistance.

metal options (aluminum, copper or steel) demonstrate the optimal ratio of moisture resistance, strength characteristics and low weight. They have an anti-corrosion coating, so self-cutting of ebbs is unacceptable. Such strips are mounted with an overlap.

Concrete models are cast from durable (grade not less than M450) cement with the addition of river sand, plasticizers. Raw materials are poured into silicone molds. After solidification, a durable frost-resistant element is obtained, which is fixed to a special solution at the border of the facade and basement.

The most expensive are clinker sills, which have not only high strength (comparable to porcelain stoneware), but also low moisture absorption, as well as exquisite design.

Installation of the ebb depends on its type, as well as the design features of the building and the material of the walls.

For example, clinker and concrete sills are not suitable for wooden walls, since they are attached to glue. Without sufficient adhesion, wood simply cannot withstand low tides. Available are metal options with fixation on self-tapping screws.

Concrete and ceramic elements are usually mounted at the stage of facade and plinth cladding. Their fastening starts from the corner, to fix the element, glue is used for outdoor work on stone and brick. After gluing the ebb, the joints of its fit to the wall surface are sealed using silicone sealant. After it dries, the installation of ebbs is considered complete, you can proceed to facing work.

If it became necessary to fix the ebbs on lined surfaces, it remains to use only metal or plastic structures. Their installation also starts from the corners, for which special corner parts are purchased.

The next step will be the finishing of all the protruding architectural elements, and already between them, on a flat surface, planks are installed. Fastening is carried out on self-tapping screws (to the wall) and dowels nails (fixed to the protruding part of the base). The resulting joints are filled with silicone sealant or putty.

The installation of ebbs is preceded by careful sealing of the joints of the wall and the basement. Moisture-repellent sealants are well suited for these purposes.

The next step is to mark the wall and determine the highest point of the basement. A horizontal line is drawn from it, along which the ebb will be set.

Installation subtleties

Facing the plinth with your own hands is a simple process. But to obtain a high-quality result, the sheathing technology should be observed:

• The surfaces to be treated must be smooth and clean. All protruding parts should be beaten off, self-leveling mortar should be poured into small recesses. Close large cracks and gaps with cement mortar, having previously reinforced the surface.
• Be sure to use primers. They will improve the adhesion of materials, as well as prevent the material from absorbing moisture from the adhesive.
• Some materials require pre-treatment before use outside the home. So, it is recommended to additionally protect the artificial stone with a water-repellent composition, and keep the clinker tiles in warm water for 10-15 minutes.

• Beautifully facing the corners allows the use of special corner elements. In most cases, installation begins with their installation.
• All metal surfaces must be made of stainless steel or have an anti-corrosion coating.
• If you decide to sheathe the base with clinker, remember that the material itself has a high thermal conductivity. To prevent the appearance of cold bridges allows the use of a special gasket placed at the joints of the internal heat-insulating material.
• Finishing the facade with basement material, if the strength of the foundation allows, is permissible. However, it is impossible to do the opposite, using facade tiles or siding for lining the basement.

Waterproofing

One of the obligatory stages of lining the basement is its waterproofing, which is carried out by horizontal and vertical methods. The first is aimed at protecting the walls from moisture, the second - provides waterproofing of the space between the foundation and the plinth. Vertical insulation, in turn, is divided into internal and external.

For external protection against moisture, roll coating and injection materials and compositions are used. Coating insulation is carried out using semi-liquid compositions based on bitumen, polymer, special cement coatings applied to the base.

The advantage of the compositions is the low price and the possibility of applying to any type of surface. However, such a waterproofing layer is unstable to mechanical stress and requires frequent updating.

Roll materials can be glued to the surface (thanks to bituminous mastics) or fused (a burner is used, under the influence of which one of the layers of the roll is melted and fixed with the base).

Roll materials have an affordable price, they are easy to mount, the process does not take much time. However, with regard to the mechanical strength of rolled waterproofing, there are more reliable options, for example, innovative injection technology.

It involves the treatment of a moistened base with special deep penetration impregnations. Under the influence of water, the components of the composition are transformed into crystals that penetrate into the pores of concrete to a depth of 15-25 cm and make it waterproof.

To date, the injection method of waterproofing is the most effective, but at the same time expensive, time-consuming.

The choice of waterproofing material and the type of its installation for external surfaces is determined by the facing material used.

insulation

Laying insulation on the outer part of the base goes 60-80 cm underground, that is, the heat-insulating material is applied to the foundation walls located underground. To do this, a trench of the specified length is dug along the entire facade with a width of 100 cm.

The bottom of the trench is equipped with a drainage system to eliminate the risk of wetting the heat-insulating material under the action of groundwater.

When the facade is wet, a layer of bitumen-based mastic or a more modern liquid waterproofing is applied to the reinforced insulation. After drying this layer, you can fix the elements of the cladding.

When organizing a hinged system, heat-insulating material in sheets is hung on the waterproofed surface of the base. A windproof membrane is applied over the insulation, after which both materials are screwed to the wall at 2-3 points. Bolts are used as fasteners. The hinged system does not involve digging a trench.

The choice of insulation and its thickness are determined by climatic conditions, the type of building and the cladding used. An available option is extruded polystyrene foam. It demonstrates high rates of thermal insulation, moisture resistance, has a small weight. Due to the flammability of the insulation, its use requires the use of a non-combustible basement finish.

To organize ventilated systems, mineral wool is used (it needs powerful hydro and vapor barrier) or polystyrene foam.

When using thermal panels with a clinker surface, additional insulation is usually dispensed with. And under the tile is attached polystyrene, polyurethane or mineral wool insulation.

Facing

Features of the plinth finish depend on the selected material. The easiest option is to apply plaster.

An important point - regardless of the type of material, all work is carried out only on prepared, clean and dry bases!

The dry plaster mixture is diluted with water, thoroughly mixed and applied in an even layer on the surface, leveling with a spatula. If you have artistic skills, you can give the surface a relief or make characteristic bulges and recesses that imitate a stone coating. To achieve a similar effect allows the use of a special mold. It is applied to a fresh layer of plaster, pressing against the surface. Removing the form, you get a base for masonry.

However, even without these frills, the plastered and painted base is reliably protected and quite attractive.

You can paint a layer of plaster after it has completely dried.(Approximately 2-3 days later). The surface is pre-sanded. For this, acrylic paint is used. It is suitable for outdoor work, allows surfaces to "breathe". It is acceptable to use coloring compositions based on silicone, polyurethane. It is better to refuse enamel analogues, they are not vapor-permeable and environmentally hazardous.

More reliable is the concrete finish of the basement. In the future, the surfaces can be painted with concrete paints or decorated with vinyl panels, tiles, and brickwork.

This process is quite simple. First, a reinforcing mesh is fixed on the plinth (usually it is fixed with dowels), then the formwork is installed and the concrete solution is poured. After hardening, it is necessary to remove the formwork and proceed to further finishing.

Facing with natural stone due to its large mass, it requires strengthening the base. To do this, a reinforcing mesh is stretched on its surface, and a concrete mortar is plastered over it. After drying, the concrete surface is primed with a deep penetration compound.

Now stones are “planted” on a special glue. It is important to immediately remove excess protruding glue. The use of beacons is optional, since the material still has different geometry. After waiting for the glue to completely harden, they begin to grout the seams.

Installation of artificial stone is generally similar to that described above.

The only difference is that the stages of additional reinforcement of the base are skipped. There is no need to strengthen it, since the artificial stone has a much lower weight than the natural one.

Clinker tiles also glued to an absolutely flat surface of the plinth or a solid crate. True, mounting beacons are used to maintain the same inter-tile space. In their absence, you can install a rod with a circular cross section, the diameter of which is 6-8 mm. Laying starts from the corner, is carried out from left to right, from bottom to top.

To organize the outer corners, you can join the tiles or use special corner elements. They can be pressed (solid right angles) or extruded (plastic counterparts, the bending angle of which is set by the user).

After the glue has hardened, you can begin to fill the joints between the tiles. The work is done with a spatula or with a special tool (similar to those in which sealants are produced).

Siding plinth slabs attached only to the crate. It is a metal profile or wooden bars. There are also combined options. In any case, all frame elements must have moisture resistant characteristics.

The brackets are installed first. Sheet heat-insulating material is laid in the space between them. A waterproof film is preliminarily laid under it, and a windproof material is laid on top of it. Further, all 3 layers (heat, hydro and windproof materials) are fixed to the wall with dowels.

At a distance of 25-35 cm from the insulation, the construction of the crate is installed. After that, the siding panels are fastened with self-tapping screws. Additional strength of the connection is provided by locking elements. That is, the panels are additionally snapped together. Corners and other complex elements of the base are made using additional elements.

Porcelain slabs also require the installation of a metal subsystem. The fixing of the tiles is carried out thanks to special fasteners, the compatible halves of which are located on the profiles and the tiles themselves.

Despite the strength of porcelain stoneware, its outer layer is very fragile. This should be taken into account during installation - minor damage will not only reduce the attractiveness of the coating, but also the technical properties of the material, primarily the degree of resistance to moisture.

flat slate fixed to the wooden subsystem using self-tapping screws. The installation starts from the corner, and upon completion of the cladding, the corners of the base are closed with special iron, zinc-coated corners. Immediately after that, you can start painting the surface.

When cutting slate, it is important to protect the respiratory system, because at this moment asbestos dust, harmful to health, hovers in the workplace. Before installation, it is recommended to cover the material with a layer of antiseptic.

• When choosing a plinth finish, it is better to give preference to thick-layer, wear-resistant materials. First of all, it is natural and artificial stone, clinker and porcelain tiles.
• In addition, the material must be moisture resistant and durable. As for its thickness, in most cases you should choose the maximum (as far as the foundation and the surface of the basement allow). For regions with harsh climatic conditions, as well as buildings in places of high humidity (a house by the river, for example), this recommendation is especially relevant.
• If we talk about affordability, then plaster and cladding will cost less than other options. However, plastered surfaces have a shorter service life.

• If you do not have a sufficient level of skill or have never done stone or tile facing, it is better to entrust the work to a professional. From the first time, it is unlikely that it will be possible to perfectly complete the skin. And the high cost of materials does not imply such "training" on it.
• When choosing any material for cladding, give preference to well-known manufacturers. In some cases, you can save money and purchase tiles or panels of domestic production. Definitely, this can be done by purchasing plaster mixtures. They are of good quality from Russian manufacturers. Clinker tiles are better to buy German (more expensive) or Polish (more affordable option) brands. Domestic usually does not meet the high requirements for the reliability of tiles.

Beautiful examples

The use of stone and brick in the decoration of the basement gives the buildings monumentality, good quality, makes them respectable.

Painting and plastering surfaces is usually used for small plinths (up to 40 cm). The shade of paint is usually darker than the color of the facade.

One of the latest finishing trends has been the tendency to "continue" the plinth, using the same material for finishing the lower part of the facade.

You can highlight the basement of the building with color using siding panels. The solution can be gentle or contrasting.

As a rule, the shade or texture of the plinth is repeated in the decoration of the facade elements or the use of a similar color in the design of the roof.

You will learn how to independently finish the basement of the foundation with facade panels from the following video.

After the erection of the walls of the house, it is time to finish it, including finishing the foundation, or basement. In addition to the most obvious function - decorative - finishing the foundation of a wooden house or a brick structure performs several more important tasks.

• It protects the wall material from precipitation and wind.
• Finishing creates an additional thermal insulation layer, preventing the concrete foundation from cooling down in winter and taking away heat from the house.
• Finishing protects the foundation from dirt, many materials are much easier to clean than bare concrete.

In the article you will find a description of the finishing materials for the plinth, tips on their use and photos of houses.

Finishing materials

Plaster

The easiest way is beacon plaster. It is called so because for its even application, beacon marks are installed on the wall. Most often, beacon plaster is used not as a final finish, but to prepare the wall before applying decorative plaster or finishing with other materials.

Decorative plaster does not have to end up with a flat surface. Using stencils, you can apply a relief pattern to it, and with certain skills, even make an imitation of stone or brick.

Siding

Finishing the foundation with siding is a modern solution. This material weighs a little, is sold in a variety of colors and textures and three standard sizes: 120*80 cm, 60*18 cm and 40*18 cm, easy to assemble. To finish the basement, they use not ordinary, but special basement siding - it is more durable due to a different composition. High-quality siding for outdoor decoration withstands high and low temperatures (from -50 to +60), does not deform, does not lose color in the sun and retains its beautiful appearance and strength for a long time.

Before installing the siding, a special starting profile is installed in the lower part of the wall. The siding is mounted on special horizontal or vertical rails that are mounted on the wall. Between themselves, the panels are fastened with a tongue-and-groove connection. Additional elements are installed in the corners. The finished plinth is covered from above with a special plinth. Siding does not require additional processing.

Profiled sheet and corrugated board

Profiled sheet and corrugated board is a profiled metal sheet. These varieties differ in that the profile on the profiled sheet is more rigid. Their main purpose is to serve as a roofing material, but due to their strength, relatively low price and durability, they are also used for other purposes, for example, for finishing the foundation of a house with a profiled sheet, building fences. The profiled sheet can be either galvanized or have a polymer coating. To finish the foundation with a professional sheet with your own hands, use a wall profiled sheet with a thickness of 0.6 mm. For facing the foundation, corners, a profile for guides, self-tapping screws, dowel anchors, and ventilation grilles are required. First, a crate made of a metal profile or wooden bars is attached to the foundation. Then the corrugated board is cut and attached to it with self-tapping screws with a waterproof gasket.

Resin tiles

This material can imitate any natural cladding: wood, stone, brick.

The tile is glued to a leveled and primed foundation surface. To lay the tiles evenly, markings are first applied to the wall. It is possible to glue tiles not only directly on concrete, but also on thermal insulation. They begin to lay the tiles from the corner, while it is immediately necessary to make 4 rows. Glue protruding from the seams seals them. After completion of work, the foundation should be closed for 2-3 days from precipitation. During this time, the glue will dry. The finished foundation does not require any additional processing.

Clinker tiles

This is a variant of facing bricks made from special types of clay. It has an interesting appearance due to the unique pattern of layers of clay mixed during the production process, looks like brickwork and gives the house a touch of antiquity.

Facing brick

This is a natural ceramic brick, which perfectly imitates brickwork, additionally insulates and protects the facade. The downside is that it's pretty heavy. If you want to finish the foundation with bricks, you need to plan this in advance, even at the stage of developing a house project, so that the wall can exactly withstand the severity of the cladding.

Fake diamond

Finishing the foundation of a house under a stone is done using an artificial stone made on the basis of concrete. It can imitate river, sea, hewn or natural stone, brickwork. Artificial stone for finishing the foundation of a house costs much less than natural stone, is durable, and resistant to temperature changes. Mounting it is simple: the tiles are glued to the leveled surface with special glue. After the glue dries, the seams are filled with a water-repellent agent. The photo shows the facades of houses with stone finishes.

Cement particle board and flat slate

To obtain a flat surface when finishing the foundation with your own hands, flat slate or cement-bonded particle board (DSP) is often used. As part of the slate - asbestos fiber, Portland cement, water. As part of the DSP - wood shavings, Portland cement, chemical additive-mineralizer (aluminum sulfate, sodium and potassium silicates), water. Slate can be pressed and unpressed, unpressed is inferior in strength and durability. DSP is less durable than slate, but lighter, and due to the chemical mineralizer, the chips in its composition are protected from moisture. A layer of decorative plaster or paint is usually applied to the DSP or slate.

Most often, not a standard gray DSP is used to finish the foundation, but embossed, painted or covered with stone chips. DSP-based facade slabs have many advantages:

withstand more than 100 freeze-thaw cycles,

• lungs,
• environmentally friendly,
• provide additional sound insulation,
• the composition of the plates prevents the appearance of mold on them.
• they are easy to cut, mill, drill at home,
• are easily mounted on a facade in the dry way.

To mount the DSP on the foundation, you need to prepare the crate. It is mounted on a prepared leveled foundation surface. The step of the crate is made no more than 60 cm. The crate can be made of wood or a metal profile, in this case the tree must be dried and treated with an antiseptic.

Attention! DSP is a fragile material, it must be protected from impacts.

Holes are drilled in the DSP sheet, steel drills are used for this, tungsten carbide drills are also acceptable. Drills for hard materials should be used. For fastening, special galvanized nails, screws or self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are used. The distance between them should be about 20 cm. It is not recommended to use fasteners designed for drywall.

Finishing the foundation in a wooden house

Finishing the foundation of a wooden house creates an additional heat and moisture insulating layer, increases the service life of the foundation. Usually, natural materials are used to finish a wooden house:

• a natural stone,
• brick,
• clinker tiles,
• porcelain tile.

The foundations of wooden houses are finished with vinyl panels (siding).

The peculiarity of finishing the plinth in a wooden house is that in this case, proper waterproofing is especially important. A waterproofing layer is made on the foundation to a height of 20-30 cm from the ground. They also install thermal insulation. After that, you can veneer the foundation. Some experts recommend doing this not after the walls are completed, but as soon as the foundation is ready, so as not to damage it during the construction of the rest of the house.

Rough plinth protection

Before finishing the foundation of the house with their own hands, they first make its rough protection. It is carried out in several stages.

• The manufacture of blind areas. The blind area is an inclined strip filled with concrete. It is made 25 cm wide more than the roof extension. Before this, part of the soil is removed, a drainage cushion of crushed stone and sand is laid. Then a layer of concrete of about 20 cm is poured on top. The blind areas should have a slight slope from the foundation. Along their edge, expansion joints are made of damper tape.
• Plastering. For more convenient work, a metal mesh is attached to the foundation.
• Waterproofing. It can be done as follows: coat the foundation with hot bitumen; cover with several layers of roofing material; cover with a penetrating waterproofing compound.

After these events, you can proceed to decorative cladding.

Now you can find materials for self-facing the foundation for every taste and budget. But it is important not so much to choose one of the many materials, but to properly organize waterproofing and thermal insulation and carry out high-quality finishing work. Then the beautiful plinth of the building will not lose its appearance for a long time and will serve as protection for the house from external influences.

An important element of the house is the plinth, which protects the lower part of the outer walls of the building. It must be made in an appropriate way, while it must have strength and resistance to various adverse factors. You should think carefully about how to finish the plinth so that it is stable and at the same time architecturally attractive. The outer walls from below are most often finished with ceramic tiles or clinker, but sometimes decorative stone and other materials are also found.

How to properly and how to veneer the basement of the house?

The basement is the upper part of the foundation wall, which is usually located above the ground at a height of 30-50 cm. This height depends on the place where the house is built, the level of groundwater and the design of the foundation. Higher plinths can be made in the construction of a foundation partially buried in the ground, in the case of a basement.

The main function of the plinth is to protect the lower part of the outer walls of the building from mechanical damage (to avoid damage to the waterproofing layer) and to preserve the walls from high humidity. Wetness can be caused by heavy rain and melting snow, which is thrown directly under the walls of the building. If properly built and properly lined with a plinth, it will protect the walls from water and will be an attractive architectural accent of the house. However, in any case, it is worth avoiding the accumulation of large snow drifts near the building.

Plinth recessed or protruding?

In most cases, typical private houses are made with a sunken plinth, which is hidden under the facade of the building. In this solution, water flowing from the façade will run off the wall, which will provide a higher degree of protection of the walls from moisture.

The decision on the type of plinth must be made already at the stage of foundation construction, in order to correctly complete the foundation and select the individual layers of the outer walls.

In the case of a sunken basement, a special profile is used that is resistant to rainwater and protects the lower part of the house from mechanical damage and moisture.

In the case of thermal insulation of external walls with mineral wool or polystyrene boards, special starter strips can also be used, located in the lower protruding part of the facade.

The protruding base is less common. However, sometimes it can be an interesting architectural element of a building. In the case of a plinth protruding from the facade of a building, its upper part must be reinforced with appropriately selected steel profiles or ceramic tiles.

It is important that a height difference of approximately 6-10% be made, which ensures a smooth outflow of rainwater without settling it on the wall (facade). In no case should the upper surface of the plinth be horizontal, without a slope, as this will quickly lead to dampness of the walls and damage to the facade at the point of its connection with the plinth.

If we want to line the entire plinth with decorative stone, we must choose its thickness correctly so that an appropriate water drain can be carried out.

The protection of the upper surface of the base should protrude by about 2-5 cm, which will ensure that rainwater runs off the surface without causing dampness in the wall.

The least rare are plinths that are made flush with the wall, that is, in the same plane with it or a flat facade to the ground. Such solutions have to be designed individually and require a very precise selection of all materials. It is important in this case, the proper execution of all connections of the facade cladding and the choice of durable and frost-resistant materials.

Ceramic tiles or clinker tiles are a fairly common basement material. In this case, the parameters of frost resistance of the finishing material are very important.

Make sure the tiles have sufficient resistance to low temperatures in winter and have a water absorption of no more than 8% (for ceramic tiles). Materials that do not meet these requirements may be too fragile for finishing.

Ceramic and clinker tiles can be especially useful in the case of finishing the plinth, which protrudes in relation to the plane of the facade of the building. Available in various thicknesses, shapes and designs.

For the strength of the plinth, the right choice of adhesive is even more important. In this case, it is imperative to use a high-quality elastic and frost-resistant adhesive so that individual tiles or even entire arrays do not peel off. The tiles must be glued to the plastered surface. Before gluing, it is recommended to lay a special mesh, which will increase the elasticity of the entire structure.

It is also imperative that the grout used is resistant to water and frost. In the case of clinker tiles, it is necessary to use glue and grout specially designed for clinker, which protect against the so-called fading (white spots on the surface of the clinker). Adhesives and grouts are also available on the market, available in a variety of colors, allowing you to choose the color of your tile grout.

If you want to tile the plinth of your house, you have a very wide range of colors and patterns, which allows you to match the finish in relation to the facade of the building.

An important advantage of a tile or clinker finish is that such a surface is easy to keep clean, clean and wash without damage. Tiles are also resistant to mechanical damage, although to a lesser extent than surfaces finished with natural stone (which are more durable than ceramic or clinker).

If you want to clad the plinth with stone, keep in mind that this is a very labor intensive and therefore more expensive method than finishing with ceramic tiles or base plaster. This is due to the fact that the correct choice of stone is necessary in order to be able to maintain an approximately equal joint thickness over the entire surface.

To perform this type of finish is usually used:

• large pebbles, although in this case there are difficulties in selecting flat stones close to each other in size;
• chipped stone;
• stone tiles.

Natural stone tiles are characterized by a very spectacular outer surface.

Stone tiles and stone are characterized by good rainwater drainage properties and the ability to easily keep the surface clean. The stone is also very resistant to mechanical damage, which will provide good protection of the thermal insulation and the lower part of the outer walls from moisture.

Due to the high labor intensity, finishing the plinth with natural stone is a relatively expensive solution. In addition, it is worth making sure that this type of finish will look harmonious with the architecture of the rest of the house (stone is not always suitable for modern-style houses). In order to save money, the plinth is often finished with stone-like panels that imitate the pattern and pattern of natural stone.

There is also the possibility of finishing the surface of the plinth with plaster. For this purpose, acrylic and mineral plasters are used. Despite the fact that both types of plaster masses can be used for external walls, it is still not recommended to use acrylic plaster.

Acrylic and mineral plasters differ significantly in price (not in favor of mineral ones), but when choosing, you should not take into account only the price criterion.

Acrylic plasters come in a much wider range of colors and can also be painted without any major problems in any chosen color. In the case of mineral plasters available on the market, the choice of color is more limited.

A few years ago, mineral plasters were sold as a dry mixture, which had to be diluted with the required amount of water. In the absence of experience, it is not always possible to make the right solution. Now, however, they are available on the market in ready-made masses, which allows them to be applied directly from the container to the walls, as is the case with acrylic plasters. These masses are more expensive than dry mixes, but after adding the cost of labor, it often turns out that the cost will be the same. Finished masses do not require as long drying and water protection as dry plasters, which often require protection for about 3-5 days.

Mineral plasters are more durable than acrylic ones. However, it should be noted that no plaster will be as resistant to impacts and dents as ceramic or stone.

The advantages of acrylic plasters are that they are more flexible and thus better suited for finishing surfaces subjected to varying temperatures. However, they are less resistant to moisture, which can accumulate in some places and destroy the surface.

The basement of the house performs not so much a decorative function as a practical one. In many cases, it serves to reduce heat loss (it is specially insulated), and also prevents the spread of atmospheric and underground moisture to the walls of the house. It also transfers the load from the walls to the foundation - if the foundation is tape or slab. Therefore, the lining of the basement of the house should be not only beautiful, but also functional. In accordance with this task, the finishing material is also selected.

When to start finishing the basement

It is best to finish the base after it is done. In this case, the finishing material will hang over the track. As a result, even the most oblique rain or streams of water flowing down the walls will not be able to get between the wall and the blind area - water enters the path at a distance of several centimeters from the junction. Namely, through this joint, water penetrates to the foundation, bringing dampness and other problems.

You need to start facing the basement of the house after the blind area around the house is made

One more moment. Many people think about whether to insulate the basement or not. If you want to save on heating, the answer is to insulate it, as well as the blind area. The knot of insulation and lining of the basement - one of the options - is shown in the photo below.

When using the basement as a residential floor, there are no issues with insulation, since the answer is unambiguous - of course, to insulate. But even if you do not have a subfloor, heating costs will be much lower, and the floor in the house will become much warmer.

How to veneer the basement of the house

There are a lot of materials for finishing the basement. The main requirements: moisture resistance, frost resistance, strength. These requirements are met by the following materials:

• Natural stones sawn into plates (flagstone) or chipped, the so-called "torn stone":
  • sandstone (layer);
  • granite;
  • marble;
  • slate;
  • dolomite;
  • shug.
• Small cobblestone.
• Large river pebble.
• Clinker tiles (clinker brick).
• Paving slabs.
• Porcelain tile.
• Finishing brick.
• Facade panels, plinth siding, PVC panels (these are all names of the same material).
• Plaster (decorative and "under a fur coat").
• Decking.

Some of them cost a lot, some are negligible, but they can all be used. The material is chosen based on financial capabilities and previously used finishing materials - the aesthetic component also plays an important role. The technologies for finishing the socles with different materials will be discussed.

Preparation and warming

First of all, if the existing plinth is uneven, its surface is leveled with plaster. A cement-sand mortar is used for plastering the basement: for 1 part of cement (Portland cement M 400), 4 parts of pure building sand, preferably river sand, are taken. For greater plasticity, you can add a little lime or liquid soap (50-80 g per bucket of solution). The solution should be of medium density: so as not to crawl from the wall. There is another option - to use a special composition. For example, such as in the video.

If the laying of tiles, stone or other similar material then follows, after leveling the mortar on its surface, notches are made with the tip of a trowel (trowel). They are applied in the form of a grid over the entire surface. These shallow grooves will give the necessary support for the finish.

If the base is insulated, notches are not needed. EPS (extruded polystyrene foam) or foam boards are glued directly onto the plastered surface. They are lightweight and adhere well to glue. Their surface is smeared with diluted tile adhesive and pressed against the plaster. Finishing materials are then attached to the surface prepared in this way.

Painting, plastering and "fur coat"

In principle, if the plaster is well leveled, after the mortar has dried, the surface can be painted and stop there. This is an inexpensive but viable option. If you took the facade paint, which is intended for outdoor use, the basement will look good for a couple of years. Then you have to remove the old paint and paint again - to maintain the appearance.

The next way is to apply a layer of decorative plaster on top of ordinary plaster. And again, choose those formulations that are intended for external use. They can be tinted in the desired color or take colored ones. The only negative is that plasters are often porous and it is necessary to clean off splashes of dirt that fall on the walls during bad weather with a brush, and sometimes with detergent.

Until now, in some areas, the method of finishing the base "under a fur coat" is popular. This is when the solution is applied not in an even layer, but in small fragments. Previously, this was done with a broom of twigs. They dipped it into a liquid solution, hit the stick with the handle so that the spray flew onto the wall. This is how they made a “fur coat” - a finish with a torn surface. Today there are special devices for applying plaster, powered by a compressor. With their help, such a finish is easier to do.

Finishing the basement of a house using materials in the form of slabs or tiles is technologically more difficult. So that it does not fall off, you need to know some subtleties.

How to fix porcelain stoneware or clinker tiles

If heavy materials such as porcelain stoneware or clinker bricks are simply put on glue, on a plastered surface with grooves, they will probably hold up normally. And they can even stay for a while. Even a few years. But then they will begin to fall off along with the solution. Especially in those places where there are no grooves or they have insufficient depth. To improve adhesion, you can apply an impregnation layer that improves adhesion (adhesion), but this is not a guarantee, especially if the material is heavy.

The same picture will be if you glue the materials directly on the insulation. Surface is smooth and easy to apply. But after a while, the finish will fall off. Faster than with a plastered surface. About this video.

To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to fix a metal painting grid, preferably galvanized. It is fastened with dowels, putting on a dowel-nail a piece of galvanized steel, the size of which is larger than the size of the cell. Fasten at the top, bottom and in a checkerboard pattern in the middle. It turns out a reliable basis for material of any severity.

Glue is applied to the plinth and to the tile. On the tile, they are removed with a notched trowel, put in place, tapping the trowel handle, put in place, leveling the plane. The distance between the tiles is maintained with the help of crosses, only their thickness is taken to be significant 3-5 mm.

In general, the laying technology is similar to. The only difference is that the glue must be special for outdoor use. The second difference: finishing materials for the base begin to be laid from below: they are heavy and they need support. You lean on the blind area the bottom row, on it - the second, etc.

Finishing the basement of the house with natural stone (shell rock, granite, dolomite, slate)

No matter how attractive artificial shiny surfaces seem, for some reason a rough stone causes great sympathy. But laying a foundation from rubble is difficult and not everyone can do it so well that a house can stand on it. But anyone can finish a finished monolithic or natural stone with their own hands, especially if at least some of the work on building a house is done personally.

It is clear that no one will fix the whole stones: the finish will be too heavy, and very voluminous. Therefore, they came up with a stone to slab or chop. Depending on the technology, either an even “flake stone” is obtained - with almost even surfaces, or a “torn stone” with an uneven front part. Sometimes these materials are cut into identical rectangles, sometimes they are left in the form of uneven plates, but in any case, this is a natural stone and the decoration of the basement of the house from it turns out to be beautiful and waterproof.

There is this material from expensive stones, for example - marble, there is cheaper - slate, dolomite, shugnite, lemezite, granite, etc. They look very impressive. Especially if it is a torn stone, although flagstone sometimes looks no worse.

Surface preparation will be exactly the same: it is best to stuff a paint grid on a plastered plinth, and lay stone plates on it with glue. If they are even - natural stone with processed edges - the laying technology will repeat one to one described above.

If the stone has torn edges, finishing the basement of the house becomes more difficult: it is necessary to select plates of such a shape that the seams are not too large. When using this option of finishing stone, you will need a grinder with a stone disk: most likely you will have to file the plates of the lower and upper rows. Correction will also be required when making corners. See the video for an example of this technology.

There is a second way. The plastered surface of the base is first smeared with a composition to improve adhesion (adhesion), then fragments of the finish are installed on it with glue. They are fixed in a predetermined position with the help of scraps of the same stone or pieces of materials of the desired size. The seams are left unfilled. After the glue has “grabbed”, the seams are filled with a thin solution from a construction syringe, rubbing and leveling as necessary.

In any case, the glue that has got on the finish must be removed in a timely manner. It will be very difficult to do this with a frozen one, and the look of the glue is far from attractive.

Sometimes, for a clearer pattern, the seams between the stone plates are drawn with dark paint. Then the surface is coated with a protective impregnation. It gives the stone a slight sheen, and often increases water repellency.

An example of facing the basement with natural stone using the second technology, see the following video.

Facing with boulder or small cobblestone

Boulder or cobblestone is not necessary to buy. It can be dialed on a river or on a pebble beach on the sea. Run-in stones are chosen flatter - round ones are more difficult to "mount". The order of work and all other subtleties are almost the same as in the case of natural stone trim. The only difference is that these stones must be washed in water with detergent before use. Firstly, the water in our ponds may have oils that need to be removed, and secondly, they may be in clay or algae, which can cause the finish to fall off.

To make everything look organic, you can first lay out a “picture” of cobblestone cladding on the path next to the place where you will veneer the basement. They have different shades and their random combinations are far from always attractive. Having laid out everything side by side, you will have an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat will happen as a result.

Watch the video about the features of finishing the plinth with cobblestone.

How to install plastic (PVC) plinth panels

This type of finish is called differently: basement or facade panels, basement siding. They have a varied appearance: for different types of stone, tile, brick.

To install PVC panels on the plinth, it is necessary to assemble the frame. It is made from a wooden beam 50 * 50 mm. Since the finish will be outdoors, the wood must be protected with impregnations that prevent decay and protect against pests.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

Assembly is easy. Only after fixing, it will be necessary to make ebbs on top: the crate and panels have a fairly decent volume and a gap remains on top. You can close it with roofing iron, as in this video. Immediately look at the technology for finishing the basement with plastic panels.

In the same way, the plinth can be finished with corrugated board. There is only one remark: it is desirable to lay insulation in the voids between the crate. It will be much warmer in the house.

Finishing the base of the pile foundation

As you know, there is no plinth. But if you do not block the space, drafts walk under the house, the floor will always be cold, and all living creatures like to settle under the house. Therefore, the base, although decorative, is necessary. It can be done in two ways.

There is one subtlety if the house is installed on screw piles or. Such foundations are often placed on highly heaving soils. So that when the soil is raised, the finish does not collapse, it is not brought to a certain distance from the ground. To prevent animals from crawling into the gap, a metal mesh is fixed at the bottom.

Is the box of the new house ready and is it time to start decorating it?

But you have not fully thought through the options, or have not decided on the finish of the plinth? We hasten to help you.

After all, only correctly selected materials and their combination with each other will give the facades completeness and make them beautiful. Consider finishing options from various materials presented on the construction market.

The basement is a part of the outer wall, which is located at the foot of the building and encloses the underground space of the house. In some houses it is an independent element erected above the foundation, in others it is a part of the foundation itself, which protrudes above ground level (strip foundations). In both cases, he needs protection.

The basement can be sunken, protruding, or be in the same plane as the walls of the house.

The most reliable is the sinking, it is easier to protect it from mechanical and atmospheric influences, it is not necessary to arrange a drain. From an aesthetic point of view, a building with such a basement is more attractive.

Protruding plinth suit in houses with thin walls, for example, frame or chopped, as well as if the house has a warm underground. With such a device, an additional installation of a drain is required to remove precipitation.

It is not advisable to arrange the base on the same level with the wall. In this case, it is more difficult to perform waterproofing.

But whatever the basement of your home, it must be well protected with a layer of waterproofing. From the point of view of savings in the further operation of the building, it is better to make it from reliable materials that do not need additional decorative finishing (monolithic concrete, baked brick, stone). It is enough to process the basement part of the monolith foundation with cement mortar and paint.

How to finish the basement of the house, if you want its appearance to be more attractive? We suggest considering several options.

Finishing the foundation of the house with decorative plaster

Decorative plaster (however, like many facing materials) is applied to a previously prepared surface: cleaned and primed. Before applying some types of plaster, a mineral-based reinforcing mass is used.

If the plinth has significant irregularities and geometric deviations, as well as in cases where the plaster layer exceeds 12 mm, a reinforcing mesh is attached before applying the decorative composition to increase the strength of the plaster mortar and its better adhesion to the base. The mesh can be woven, welded, woven.

With a small thickness of the plaster layer, a fiberglass mesh can be used. Any applied reinforcing mesh prevents cracking of the plaster during further operation of the house.

The applied decorative layer can be smooth, rough, made with embroidery or with the use of prints for various materials. For this purpose, special rollers and stamps are used. The finishing layer of the plastered surface is often various facade paints.

Decorative finishing of the basement of the house with facing materials

For cladding, a wide variety of materials are used: porcelain stoneware, clinker tiles, natural facing stone, siding, profiled sheet. The main thing is that the selected material is in harmony with the facades and roofing material.

Porcelain stoneware has increased strength, frost resistance and wear resistance, as well as decorative properties.

The plinth lined with porcelain tiles looks great in combination with the porch, which is finished in the same material. The foundation, lined with porcelain stoneware, is more restrained.

Clinker tiles are very decorative, creates the feeling of a plinth lined with clinker bricks. But since the brick itself is a rather expensive building material, finishing with clinker panels will save money, while the lined element will not look cheap.

In addition, with the help of such tiles, you can decorate not only the basement, but also part of the walls or corners of the building. The natural shades of clinker tiles are perfectly combined with natural tiles and many other roofing materials.

Clinker tiles (as well as porcelain stoneware tiles) can be glued on a frost-resistant adhesive or mounted on a special frame system (when installing a ventilated facade). The second method of arranging the base is more expensive than the first, but the most reliable. In addition, insulation can be performed between the frame and the wall.

Gluing tiles is carried out according to the principle of laying any other ceramics, the only difference is that the ground level is variable around the perimeter of the building. In this connection, we calculate the number of rows (based on the width of the tile and the thickness of the proposed seams), measure the line of the second row from the bottom, draw a horizontal line, and for convenience, mount the starting auxiliary bar.

After laying the tiles, it is necessary to seal the seams with a grouting mortar special for outdoor work.

Facing stone natural and artificial- another decorative material for finishing the basement of the building.

Natural stone is very durable and environmentally friendly, durable and beautiful. This is perhaps the most ancient building material.

Granite, marble, sandstone, used in the exterior and interior of the house, speaks of the high status of the owner, as it is the most expensive material. Natural stone is laid on cement mortar.

Alternative - artificial finishing stone for those who do not see their facade with a different material, and it is not possible to purchase a natural one.

Artificial stone is produced with imitation of various breeds and a rich color palette. Its weight is much lower than natural stone, which facilitates the installation process.

Plastic panels (PVC), imitating various materials (stone, brick, wood), have also become widely used in the decoration of the basement and facades in general. But basement siding differs from facade siding in composition. It is more resistant to mechanical damage.

Modern siding panels for outdoor decoration can withstand both very low (-50 o C) and very high (+60 o C) temperatures, therefore they are used with great success for finishing work.

The panels are mounted along guides (vertical or horizontal), the panels are joined to each other with the help of grooves and ridges. On sale you can find large and small-sized elements of PVC cladding.

It is possible to finish the foundation of the house from the outside with galvanized or polymer-coated profiled sheets. This type of finish is economical and easy to install. The foundation will be reliably protected from external influences and will last a long time.

All types of finishes are good, choose your option, but do not forget that the selected material should not stand out from the overall picture. Harmony can only be achieved if all materials - from the basement to the roof - are combined with each other.