Homemade folding tripod for a bowler hat. Methods for hanging a kettle over a fire. Alternative tripod solutions

Everyone who is fond of sports tourism or just likes to periodically go to the taiga with an overnight stay knows that a tripod for a fire is a must.

Most often, impromptu is used - two sticks found in the forest, with a crossbar laid on them, but usually, making a tripod from improvised materials takes time that can be spent on more useful things. Of course, you can buy it in a store, but not everyone wants to give money for three metal pipes, so it's better to make it yourself.

How to make a tripod for a fire with your own hands?

For this you will need:

Six pieces of nuts and screws, those that are popularly called "lambs", but if not, you can get by with the usual ones.

3 meters of a mounting rail, also called a "din rail", is sold at any building materials store.

30 centimeters of wire, 3 millimeters thick.

Chain.

The rail must be cut into three equal parts, each piece is one meter long.

Now we cut each plank in two and as a result, we get six slats of 50 centimeters each. You should get a tripod that, when folded, will be only half a meter long, and ready to go - 95, which is important for hiking.

Next, in three rails, we drill holes for the wire ring, where we then insert them. Instead of a ring, you can make a triangle out of wire, whichever is more convenient for you, then carefully fix the structure. So, we got a small tripod for a fire with our own hands.

Now, with the help of screws and nuts, we attach the remaining three rails to the legs of the tripod, thereby increasing its height.

Well, in general, it remains to attach the chain: we take a nail, give it the shape of the letter M and thread one link through it. It turns out a convenient, compact tripod that does not take up space and is useful on any trip.

In general, a do-it-yourself tripod for a fire has a lot of variations: for example, three steel pipes welded together at an angle, then you get a tripod for two pots, but for this, of course, you need a welding machine or a familiar welder.

Or, you can make a design equipped with several hooks, and then several dishes can be cooked on one tripod at once. Here it all depends on your desire and how you will operate the tripod for the fire with your own hands.

Otherwise, every self-respecting tourist, even in field conditions, is able to get out of any situation, especially when it comes to food.

But it is always easier to spend finances on something really useful than on things that you can easily collect at home, without much effort.

Also you can see homemade tripod video

One of the advantages of outdoor recreation is cooking on an open fire, which makes ukha, kulesh and even simple tea seem incredibly tasty. But it is not always possible to find suitable stones to build a semblance of a hearth. Therefore, taking a lightweight tripod made of aluminum tubes with you is an excellent solution, as it does not take up much space, is quickly assembled and is convenient to use. Of course, you can buy a finished factory-assembled product, but for a craftsman who likes to do everything with his own hands, this is not interesting.

Necessary materials and tools

To build a tripod for a hike, you will need the following materials:

3 pieces of aluminum or thin-walled steel pipe 150–200 mm long. The longer the pipes, the higher the tripod will turn out.
3 steel eye bolts.
3 S-shaped hooks.
Metal chain to hang the bowler.

Of the tools you will need:

A hammer.
Bulgarian or hand saw for metal.
Pliers.

Making a tripod

Now you can proceed directly to the assembly of the tripod. If pipes of greater length were prepared, they must be cut to a convenient length, which can be any.
To connect the bolts to each other, you need to open one of the loops a little so that you can put on other bolts.

The most convenient way to do this is to hold the bolt in a vice, and open the ring with pliers or a gas wrench. This is the hardest part of assembling the tripod, so it will take some fiddling.
When the eye is sufficiently pressed, the rings of the other two bolts and one end of the chain are put on it.

After that, with the help of a hammer, the unclenched ring is compressed so that the worn elements do not fall out and the structure remains intact.
The tripod legs are connected in this order.
The end of a bolt with a nut screwed onto it is inserted into one of the ends of the pipes. If the nut dangles freely in the pipe, then you need to knock on the pipe on a rigid base a little above and below the nut and flatten it a little. This will securely fix the nut in the pipe so that the tripod does not fall apart at the most inopportune moment.

When this is done, an S-shaped hook is put on the chain 3-5 links from the top of the tripod, which will allow you to adjust the height of the dishes above the fire.
Advice! The end of the hook, which is put on the chain, must be clamped with a hammer or pliers so that it does not fall out and is not lost during transportation.
If the length of the chain is too long, then it must be shortened so that the dishes are located a few centimeters above the ground when the tripod is unfolded.

Another S-shaped hook is put on the last link of the chain, the end is clamped. Dishes will be hung on this hook: a cauldron, a kettle, a kettle or other suitable utensils.

You can adjust the height of the dishes above the fire by moving the legs of the tripod or by hooking the chain into several links on the upper hook.

Of the advantages of this design, it should be noted its compactness and ease of folding / unfolding.

If desired, you can slightly expand the functionality of the tripod. For example, holes can be drilled in the legs and additional hooks can be fixed on which it will be possible to dry shoes or hang dishes away from the fire so that the food does not cool down.
Note! When making an open fire in nature, fire safety rules must be observed! You also need to monitor the clothes or shoes dried over the fire so that they do not burn. To do this, the legs of the tripod must be of such length that their lower part can be located at a sufficient distance from the fire and remain cold.

Campfire equipment among tourists is most often understood as a set of devices that make it easier to make a fire and cook food on it. This equipment is also called a campfire set. It contains all the necessary accessories for a person whose duties on a hike include building and maintaining a fire.

A campfire set that lacks a rope with hooks.

Campfire equipment includes the following equipment:

means for obtaining open fire;
aids for lighting a fire;
rope with hooks;
"p"-shaped rack;
tripod;
shoulder blade
saw and ax;
burner.

Some also refer to the campfire set as kitchen accessories and utensils in which food will be cooked. Usually these are cauldrons, pots, cans and pans made of stainless steel, aluminum alloy or titanium. But we will not talk about them in this article. It will be enough to say that they are needed, otherwise what would be the point of preparing food?

Crockery on a hike can be both very simple and quite expensive, and in survival conditions it is quite possible to do without it.

Open fire equipment

Ignition tools include matches, gas lighters, a flint and a piston for lighting a fire.

These tools, as the name implies, serve to quickly obtain an open fire, from which the fire itself is kindled.

Of course, you can light a fire in other ways, but usually they are either more labor-intensive (for example, making a fire by friction, as they did in the old days), or can be reproduced only under strictly defined conditions (for example, making a fire from the sun), or are available only to a certain categories of people (for example, making fire with a shot from a gun). Therefore, popular means for obtaining fire are the most rational choice.

Flint and flint are the most reliable, but not the easiest fire starters to use.

Of the variety of such tools, I would recommend the following:

Ordinary matches. They are cheap and ignite easily. You need to take at least two boxes with you on a hike and put them in different places, for example, in a backpack and a jacket pocket. It is better if the matches are protected from moisture (we considered how to do this in).
Lighter. Better gas on a piezoelectric element in the amount of two pieces. Turbo lighters have shown themselves very well, working even in strong winds, but such models are usually quite expensive. Read more about the different types of lighters and their use in the wild, we told here.
A fire starter, sometimes equipped with a magnesium bar to produce chips with a high burning temperature. Magnesium helps start a fire even in rainy and windy weather. Modern fire flints are not cheap, and they are not as easy to use as matches and lighters: it is much more difficult to kindle a fire with a flint. However, this means of starting a fire, often used in place of matches, is worth spending money on. Flint is not afraid of frost, water, wind, or breakage. This "invulnerability" makes it a reliable companion for the outdoor enthusiast. In addition, it is convenient to carry a fire starter with you, hanging around your neck on a thin rope, so that it will always be at hand, even if a person left the tent at night to relieve himself and got lost or was away from the group after an unsuccessful river crossing.

The video below shows how you can make a steel file from a file with your own hands:

Other means for making fire are not worth attention, because they are more whimsical and difficult to operate. So, for example, when using a fire piston or a set for kindling a fire from flint and flint, you need to pay special attention to the dryness of the tinder, without which it will not be possible to kindle a fire in such ways, and using a powerful, but expensive and heavy laser for a fire is unsafe and irrational.

Ignition aids

Auxiliaries for lighting a fire are various materials that help to quickly and easily start a fire. We talked about them in detail in Here, we will consider the most popular among tourists.

Among the most popular means for ignition are:

Paraffin candles. They burn for a long time and are resistant to moisture.
Cotton swabs soaked in wax, paraffin or petroleum jelly. They burn brightly and for a relatively long time.
Plexiglas. This polymer is light, not afraid of moisture, burns for a long time, without releasing particularly toxic substances, which means it is safe to use.
Dry fuel (dry alcohol). It burns for a long time, but is sensitive to moisture. But despite its hydrophobicity, it continues to be widely used by tourists and the military, both as an auxiliary tool for kindling a fire, and as an independent fuel that allows you to heat a small amount of food in the field.

The video below shows several types of kindling for a fire:

It is enough to have a certain supply of such materials with you in order to simplify the task of making a fire in difficult conditions, for example, after a long rain. If the ignition for the fire is over or simply was not taken with you on a hike, or the person found himself without equipment in an emergency, such ignition can be replaced with natural analogues, for example, pine resin mixed with wood.

Fire rope with hooks

It is very convenient to use a metal cable to hang several pots over a fire. It does not burn out, weighs a little, but solves the problem of simultaneous cooking of different foods. For example, porridge can be boiled in one pot, water for tea can be boiled in another.

The length of the cable is selected based on the area of the planned fire. It should be enough so that the fire does not heat the ropes that are attached to the cable along its edges. But you need to remember that with the length of the cable, its mass in the backpack will also increase. Therefore, here, as elsewhere, the golden mean is important.

The thickness of the cable must guarantee the safety of its use (a very thin cable may burst under strong tension and load). For these purposes, I took a cable a few millimeters thick.

When assembled, such a cable is very compact and does not take up much space in a backpack. The photo shows him with a special bag:

The ends of such a cable are bent into small loops and fixed in this position with metal clips. The fixation must be reliable so that the loops do not unbend even with significant loads that will occur at the time of hanging dishes with food being prepared on the cable.

In addition to the cable, you need to put two ropes of 5-6 meters in the backpack. I used a 3mm cord for this.

These ropes will be attached at one end to the loops of the cable, and at the other - to the supports standing on the sides of the fire, for example, to tree trunks. Usually this length of ropes should be enough to reach nearby trees and secure the structure to them. But in some cases it is better to play it safe and put an extra coil of rope in your backpack: after all, the rope weighs a little, but it can come in handy in various situations - from repairing equipment to building a hut and primitive forest furniture.

When hanging dishes with food on a cable, it will bend. In order to prevent the cauldrons from sliding along the bevels of the cable, special metal hooks are used that “bite” the cable under the load of the dishes hanging on them. Thus, by lifting the hook along with the dishes, you can move it to a convenient place and leave it there without fear of slipping.

Instead of ready-made metal hooks, you can use home-made ones made with your own hands from branches directly at the parking lot. For this:

1. A strong, but not very thick wooden spear in the form of the letter “Y” is found or cut from a tree;
Extra parts are cut from the flyer with a knife so that a hook is obtained in the form of the letter “J”;
On the long side of the hook, at different heights, deep transverse cuts are made from the sides of the hook tip, sufficient to allow the cable to be inserted into them. Everything - the hook for the bowler hat is ready.
A bowler hat is hung on the lower part of this hook. The height of the bowler hat above the fire is regulated by the choice of a notch, with which the hook will be hung on a cable.

In principle, if you do not plan to adjust the height of the pot above the fire, you can limit yourself to one slot on such a hook and hang it upside down, hooking the pot on it, or hook the curved part of the hook onto the cable, and insert the handle of the pot into the slot.

This device is very convenient, but when using more than one hook with a bowler hat, such fasteners can slip along the cable, which may not be very convenient with strong sagging.

"U"-shaped rack

The "U"-shaped rack is made of metal and can be collapsible for ease of transportation. This item is heavier than a tether, but can be more convenient to use when there are few trees in the area.

The photo shows such a classic rack:

For example, I encountered such a situation many years ago when I was vacationing on the Kinburn Spit. There were no nearby trees or other convenient support near our parking lot, so we had to improvise. Then I didn’t know yet that it was possible to cook food in one cauldron without additional equipment at all and tried to bungle something in the image of a stereotype hammered into my head.

The advantage of the rack over the cable is that it will be possible to hang the pots even when there is not a single tree in the immediate vicinity. To do this, the "legs" of the device are buried in the ground.

However, in addition to weight and size, such a rack has another significant drawback: it will be difficult to install it on stony soils, rocks, and in winter, when the ground freezes through.

If desired, you can build a "wild" analogue of such a rack. For this:

Two strong horns and one strong pole are cut out.
Slingshots are dug into the ground on the sides of the fire pit.
The pole is placed on them - an impromptu stand is obtained.

All three methods are shown in the video below:

Instead of spears, in this case, fishing enthusiasts can successfully use fishing rod stands, saving time searching for wooden counterparts.

In general, I see the point of taking a metal rack only if traveling by transport is supposed, because it is not advisable to carry this pile of metal on a hump, without which it is quite possible to do without.

Campfire tripod

A metal collapsible tripod allows you to hang a cauldron over a fire at a convenient height. To do this, a chain or cable with a hook is attached to the top of the tripod, for which a container with food or water is suspended.

Such a tripod weighs quite a lot and you need to take it on a hike only if it is clearly necessary.

A tripod can be made from poles with your own hands. For this:

Two poles are placed close to each other, and the third - on top between them.
At some distance from the edges, the poles are tied with a rope, for example, a boa knot.
The connected poles are placed vertically and moved apart at the bottom - a tripod is obtained.
A hook made of a stick is tied to the free end of the rope.

In this case, the height of the bowler hat is adjusted either by moving the tripod legs in and out, or by throwing a rope to which the hook is tied onto the top of the tripod.

To prevent the rope from burning out, you need to use fires that have a relatively low flame, for example, the “star” fire, which was described in

In the old days, instead of a rope, a flexible branch was used to tie the poles of a tripod. One part of it was kneaded to give the branch flexibility, and on the other side, a bowler hook was made from the same branch. But for this method, it is not always possible to find a suitable plant, and it makes no sense to puzzle yourself: it is much easier to get a supply of expendable rope from a backpack.

Speaking of a tripod, I can say that I personally see no reason to take such a device on a hike, since you can only heat up one container of food on it. And for one pot, a tripod is not needed: just put it directly on the fire - and the food in it will cook no worse than on a tripod.

Shovel, saw and ax

The tools taken with you on a hike will greatly facilitate the life of a campfire. An ax and a saw will allow you to quickly get firewood and get dry kindling even after prolonged rains, and the MPL-50 small infantry shovel will dig a place for a fire and make outdoor recreation safe from the point of view of the likelihood of a fire.

Special collapsible shovels and axes are compact enough to fit in any backpack.

Of course, you can do without these tools. For example, to burn a fire not on wood, but on brushwood, if necessary, break thick branches by hitting a stone or holding them between trees, digging a fire pit with a pointed stick or surrounding it with stones. But it’s much easier to do all this with the usual tools at hand.

The choice to take or not to take tools with you depends on the conditions of the trip. For example, it makes no sense to save space in a backpack with a saw or an ax during a multi-day trip through the winter forest, where there is a lot of fuel and often there is a need to warm up and dry things. On the other hand, it is not advisable to take a heavy ax with you on a hike if the path lies through the desert or in the highlands, where you don’t really have to think about a classic fire due to the lack of trees. In this case, it is better to grab a burner and a supply of fuel for it.

Burner instead of fire

Modern burners allow a person to cook food when the environment is poor in fuel and lighting a fire is problematic.

Burners have shown themselves well in mountain hikes, although many take them with them on ordinary hikes, so as not to run around the neighborhood in search of brushwood and firewood.

Such burners are divided into types, depending on the fuel used in them. There are gas, liquid fuel and multi-fuel burners. The latter allow the use of both liquid fuels and gas, but, as a rule, are much more expensive.

Such burners also have their drawbacks, among which the following should be highlighted:

High price. Usually good burners are quite expensive, and risking buying a cheap but dubious option, in my opinion, is not a good idea.
Fuel. Many burners are very sensitive to the purity of the fuel and can only work on a certain type of fuel. Fuel must be carried with you, and when it runs out, it can not always be found in the locality that is nearby (if any). Among other things, do not forget that fuel for burners also costs money - it is much cheaper to cook food on a fire.
Need for service. Burners tend to clog and need to be cleaned. In addition, like any other complex device, they break down and cannot always be repaired in a hike, turning into a useless load that you have to carry in a backpack.

In one of my trips, a gasoline burner taken by a friend broke down on the very first day. No attempt to repair it has been successful. I had to cook food, as before, on a good old fire.

However, if you need to cook in an area where fuel may be a problem or wildfires are highly likely, or you just don't want to make your presence known by hauling the surrounding area with smoke, burners are the best choice.

Branded campfire sets

On sale you can find branded sets for kindling a fire. Most often they represent a combination of the main and auxiliary means for ignition. Let's consider a few of them.

Zippo Emergency Fire Starter Kit is a set consisting of a flint lighter and wax-impregnated sticks made of fibrous pressed material. This lighter is used exclusively for striking a spark on a stick, that is, it performs the functions of a flint. The cost of such a set is about 30 US dollars. An overview of it is shown in the video below:

Light My Fire FS 2.0 Scout + TinderDust Combo- a set for making a fire, which includes a flint and flint and a box with pine shavings. A fire is made by striking sparks from a flint and flint on wood shavings. The cost of this set is about $20.

Fire steel set (MIL-TEC)- another set that includes a steel flint, cotton wool, dry alcohol and a metal box in which all this is stored. Presumably sparks of flint and flint ignite cotton wool, from which, in turn, dry alcohol is ignited. This set is the most budgetary of those listed and costs about 6 US dollars.

The photo shows this whole set - you can see how small the box is for it:

As you can see, there is nothing special in these sets, so the question arises, are they really necessary? For a more modest amount, you can independently assemble your own set for the conditions in which it is supposed to be used.

We examined the main components of a campfire set that help a person make a fire and cook food on it. However, in addition to those described, there are others whose fame and popularity are not so great.

Nevertheless, despite all the variety of such equipment, I believe that for most hikes in which there are no problems with fuel, it is enough to have several options for kindling a fire and tools for felling and cutting dead wood. For a large group, it will not be superfluous to put a rope with ropes and hooks in a backpack, and with the expectation of bad weather, a piece of plexiglass or a candle. That's the whole minimum, which will not make the hikers collapse from the weight of their backpacks, but at the same time will not exclude the opportunity to please themselves with a mug of hot tea.

Necessary materials and tools

To build a tripod for a hike, you will need the following materials:

3 pieces of aluminum or thin-walled steel pipe 150-200 cm long. The longer the pipes are, the higher the tripod will be.
3 steel eye bolts.
3 S-shaped hooks.
Metal chain to hang the bowler.

Of the tools you will need:

A hammer.
Bulgarian or hand saw for metal.
Pliers.

Making a tripod

Another S-shaped hook is put on the last link of the chain, the end is clamped. Dishes will be hung on this hook: a cauldron, a kettle, a kettle or other suitable utensils.

You can adjust the height of the dishes above the fire by moving the legs of the tripod or by hooking the chain into several links on the upper hook.

Of the advantages of this design, it should be noted its compactness and ease of folding / unfolding.

Hello. Today I want to talk about how I made a tripod for a fire.

... As I have repeatedly mentioned, from time to time my friends and I go by car to the forest, where we live in tents for several days. This tradition has been going on for more than twenty years, and we are slowly "acquiring" the things necessary for a comfortable stay in the forest. Among them is a tripod for a fire, which freed us from such an activity as searching in the forest for suitable "slingshots" and a crossbar, with their subsequent installation near the fire. The tripod that we purchased was of the following plan (photo from the Internet. Now is not the season, and ours is hidden somewhere on the far shelf.)):

During operation, a number of shortcomings were revealed, namely:

1. There is no way to quickly adjust the height of the cauldron suspension. (At bonfires, as a rule, there is no "knee" to quickly make the fire smaller)))) With abundant boiling, one thing remains - to regulate the heat by raising or lowering the cauldron (cauldron). To do this by moving to another link in the chain is good only in theory! In practice, at least two people are needed - one lifts the cauldron (and it is heavy!), The other outweighs the chain. And even doing it together on outstretched arms over a blazing fire and a boiling cauldron is still a pleasure!)))). In addition, if you outweigh it high, then the rest of the chain strives to dip into the boiler))).

2. Not wide enough! Our company is large, and if, for example, a fifteen-liter boiler hangs, then it should hang only below! You can’t lift it, because the “legs” narrow from above. In order for it to fit high too, the tripod must be over two meters high...

3. Insufficient compactness. Even when folded, it is over a meter long! Not in any trunk enters along, or across! And if you put it diagonally, it takes up a lot of usable space!

4. It cannot be put aside if it is temporarily not needed! That is, I would like the tripod in the assembled state to be a rigid structure that can be put on a glove (it can be hot!) Just temporarily set aside, and then just as easily put back in its place. (And with In doing so, she did not change her geometry, even if she was carried by one "leg") And ours, when trying to lift it, adds up. (And she is hot!))). That is, you can still remove it and throw it aside, but now, putting it back over a blazing fire is problematic! You need to wait until the fire goes out a little.

Given all these points, I decided to make a new one with my own hands. And here's what I got:

In this photo, it is not fully expanded. The lower segments of the "legs" are telescopic!! If you extend them, then the height from the ground to the hook (in its upper position) is 1m. 60 cm!! It's just that now is not the season for trips "to nature" and I photographed it indoors, the dimensions of which did not allow such a massive structure to be fully captured in the frame.))))

Here's what I needed to make it:

1. Profile pipe with a section of 15 by 15 mm.
2. Profile pipe, section 20 to ... mm. (Needed for the manufacture of a U-shaped guide, so any trimming of a profile pipe with one wall of 20 mm is suitable)
3. Sheet iron 5 mm thick. (I have a "corrugation", this is not necessary)
4. Cut off the M14 stud.
5. square (rolled) 10 by 10 mm.
6. square (rolled) 12 by 12 mm. (Needed to reinforce the bends ("knees") of the "fifteen" pipe, so short cuts are suitable).
7. Suspended spring element from the Armstrong suspended ceiling system.
8. Wire with a diameter of 4 mm.
9. Cut of the railing tube 16 mm. (Not necessary.)
10. M6 bolts 25 mm long. (3 pcs. for the manufacture of axes "legs")
11. M6 cap nuts. (For the same.)
12. M6 wing bolts. (3 pcs. For fixing the telescopic parts.)
13. Nuts M6. (normal)
14. Nuts M14.
15. M5 wing bolts (3 pcs.)
16. M5 wing nuts (3 pcs).
17. Heat-resistant enamel.

I wrote this list - and I myself am in shock !!! After all, he made something simple, one might say, a primitive product, and it took a lot of names of materials!
But nothing!! We are not looking for easy ways!!! The product turned out, and meets all the criteria laid down by me! So - time and effort spent not in vain!

So, where did I start? .. Do you think from a drawing? If so, then you are only partly right!
The fact is that I never make drawings of my homemade products! This takes time, and it is never enough! Plus, crafting is my hobby! So, each product is made in a single copy! Therefore, after its manufacture, the drawing will certainly not be needed! And since God did not offend me with spatial thinking, I prepare all the "drawings" of homemade products only in my head! As a rule, I do this while driving, where I spend a lot of time, daily spinning around the city. And I draw individual details only on the blanks, before taking on the grinder!)))) And if I need the size I intuitively need to "translate into meters", then I imagine the future detail, holding a tape measure in my hands, looking at it, and mentally trying on a future detail for it))))

But now I still drew a little... That is, I just drew a sketch of a tripod of such dimensions as I would like, on a scale of 1: 1, on a sheet of cardboard.))).

And then it's easier. Applying the blank to the sketch, I made one of the three main elements. (I started with the upper parts of the "legs").

According to my idea, this part will have two short "shoulders" bent at a certain angle at the ends. The upper "shoulders" will be dressed with ends on the axis, and, through them, hinged to the top plate. The upper and lower plates will be pulled together with an M14 pin, and the “shoulders”, being sandwiched between them, will provide a rigid fastening of the “legs” and the desired angle of their arrangement ...
In short ... Here, look at the photo of the finished product, you will immediately understand everything))):

If the pin is loosened and the plates are separated, then "the legs can be folded to a position where their long parts become parallel:

That is, the folding mechanism of the main nodes is clear. By tightening the plates with a hairpin, we force the "legs" to diverge until their upper "shoulders" are firmly clamped between the plates. The design will take on a rigid final shape.

Since it is impossible to bend a profile pipe at the right angle, I, having estimated the desired length of the "shoulders" and the desired angle from the template (sketch), made cuts?

Since the upper "shoulders" will have to withstand heavy loads, I decided to strengthen them. Cut out one wall

From square rolled products 12 by 12 mm I cut off three segments and made transverse cuts in them with a depth of about half:

Then, Bent to the desired angle using the "sledgehammer-impact method"
The angle was "measured" by applying blanks to my sketch.

After that, I hammered the resulting amplifiers into the pipe:

Then he bent the "opened" parts to them and boiled them well, paying attention to the incision at the fold.

After pre-treatment with a cleaning wheel, I drilled holes for the axles:

Everything... The upper "shoulder" is ready. I made the lower one with similar amplifiers, only I had to cut off the “shoulders” completely, hammer in short amplifiers, and then boil them, because the design there will be a little different:

Having found the center, I drilled holes in them for the stud:

From a cut pipe with a single wall of 20 mm, I cut out three “landing” ones for the upper “shoulders” (as we remember, they are square in section with a side of 15 mm, and the inner size of the landing ones turned out to be 16 mm.):

And welded them to the top platform.

Here I will describe my mistake. Initially, I planned to screw the stud from below, so I welded an M14 nut to the top plate, protecting its thread from metal splashes with wetted paper:

But, already at the first "fitting" it turned out that it is very inconvenient to twist the hairpin from below - the "legs" interfere. So I drilled out the threads in this nut, and welded a similar nut to the bottom plate. Now the hairpin will be screwed in from above.

In the corners of the lower platform, I made cutouts for the "legs". Now, when we clamp our structure, the bottom platform into which the stud is screwed will not be able to rotate.

The next thing I started making a comfortable collar from a hairpin. First things first, I drilled an axial hole in it, with a diameter of 6 mm. I will need this in order to make a "cunning" cauldron suspension mechanism smoothly adjustable in height, which I will talk about later ...

Drilling the hole was difficult. Drilled in a vice. To do this, I screwed three nuts and "locked" them well. For them, and held in a vice, so as not to spoil the thread:

I constantly lubricated the drill, drilled at low speeds, monitored the parallelism of the drill in all planes ... And the drill was short. Then I had to aim from the other side ....
But it worked!

To make the collar, I screwed two nuts onto the end of the stud and welded them:

Then he drilled two blind holes in their faces (so that they reached the stud), hammered bolts into them and welded:

.... And I realized that I was wrong again !!!
Since my tripod when folded in cross section will have a triangular shape, it would be logical to make a case for it triangular! And in any case, such a knob will protrude beyond the tripod ...

So I cut off one bolt:

And welded two:

Such a knob can be turned so that it does not stick out beyond the upper triangular plate, and it will be even more convenient to rotate it than a bolt with two knobs.

Next, I started making the lower parts of the "legs". As planned, they will be telescopic. A 10x10 square will come out of a 15x15 pipe.
(The profile pipe has a wall thickness of 1.5 mm. Theoretically, it should include a 12 by 12 square bar, from which I made amplifiers. But in practice, it is only clogged there with a sledgehammer, since the pipe is welded, and has a welding seam inside. Therefore, I chose a smaller section).
The telescopic extensions will be clamped in the desired position with wing bolts. Therefore, having cut three pieces of pipe of the required length, I drilled holes in them closer to the edge with a diameter of 8 mm, and welded over them along the M6 nut:

This was hard enough to do with arc welding. To fix it in the right position and to protect the thread from metal splashes, I used a bolt, which is "not a pity")))

From all the pipes behind the welded nut I cut off the "extra":

Dressed him on rods:

Welded and sharpened:

Such a design will protect the inside of the pipe from being clogged with earth if we stick it into the ground without unfolding the telescopic part, and, at the same time, will serve as limiters - it will not allow the bars to go inside when folding more than necessary .... Yes, and it looks somehow more organic.
...Initially, I thought about how to limit the departure of these elements. And, even, he came up with ... but abandoned this idea because then the telescopic structure would not be collapsible! And, if sand gets inside, it will be problematic to clean! Therefore, I decided to exclude this moment, and in order not to accidentally stick out the "legs" more than expected, just paint their upper part with red enamel. As soon as it appeared red - stop! You can't go further!

Now we will make the top mount. It is supposed to fold up. But you can’t make it telescopic - the “knee” on the upper part interferes. And if you just fold to the side on the axis, then there will not be enough rigidity. So I came up with this compromise solution:

The “legs” will fold on the axis, but, having expanded them by 180 degrees, you can move them a little back so that their ends enter the upper part of the pipe, and clamp it in this position with a wing bolt with a wing nut. You get a rigid mount at two points - the hinge "will be immobilized by a telescopic moment!"

I implemented it like this:
I cut three pieces of a square with a side of 12 mm and drilled holes in them with a diameter of 6 mm:

After that, the grinder cut one side along.

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