Sanding wall putty with a machine. Overview of grinders for walls and ceilings. The process and rules of grinding

The procedure for leveling the walls involves a rough finish (plaster) and a thin one (putty). When the surface is plastered, even with the most painstaking application, there are always small bumps and sagging on it, which are formed from the sharp corners of the spatula. These are the consequences of the acceleration of the putty mass or the joining of two treated sections of the wall. Therefore, masters prefer to use a large spatula to minimize the number of problem areas. And be sure before polishing, the wall should dry well for at least a day. Hence the conclusion: the better the work is done, the less hassle the finishing will bring.

Sanding the walls after puttying - this is a mechanical work that is done on a dry, clean putty, without any primer!

Depending on the area and type of surface, a rational choice of how to sand the walls after puttying will help to significantly save time and effort:

if the surface is small, use dry sanding with a bar;
for large areas it is better to use an electric surface grinder, but keep in mind the nuance that you will have to manually bring the corners to mind;
if the plane is both large and complex, with curves and protrusions, an eccentric sander with decent power will work well.

What should be the grinding bar? In addition to the base with a handle and clamps, it is necessary to stock up on strips of sandpaper of the desired grit or sanding mesh, as the abrasive wears out constantly and needs to be replaced. There is no universal advice on what to use: everyone selects it at their own discretion. Paper or mesh is fixed in a beam, where it is held by special clamps.

The "plus" of the sanding mesh is that its pores are not clogged with putty dust. Due to the holes, dust does not linger in it and falls off. True, it is somewhat more expensive than paper. The mesh should be replaced when the canvas is worn out - it's easy to see or feel that the work is not going efficiently. It is sold already cut to the dimensions of the bars, so when buying, you should know what tool you are using.

Sandpaper changes much more often than mesh, so in large quantities it will also pull a decent amount. It is sold in various configurations: rolls, sheets, etc. For economical consumption, consider how it will be more profitable for you to cut it, given the size of your bar. You can buy already cut pieces, but it is unprofitable. When you're cutting mesh or paper, don't forget about the allowances on the bar for the clips!

Correctly recommending the grain size is difficult, it is easier to determine this empirically. Sample 60, 80, 90, 100 grit pieces and try them on the wall. The smaller the number, the coarser the sandpaper, and if the fraction is too small, it will instantly go out of order.

Depending on the subsequent processing, the smoothness of the wall may be different. If it is painted, then it will have to be polished twice, first with coarser sandpaper, say 60, which will remove obvious lumps from the surface, and then with paper or mesh with a finer coating, 100-120, to give perfect smoothness. If wallpaper will be glued to the wall, one coarser sanding will be enough.

Of course, having a grinder, polishing the walls is much faster and easier. It is able to provide an ideal surface quality and, most importantly, draws in dust. Many models have a special ergonomic design of the holders that do not tire your hands, and some grinders telescopically retract and allow you to work while standing on the floor, on a remote section of the wall or ceiling.

homemade tool

It is worth paying your attention to how to skin in hard-to-reach places: corners, joints, niches. With the help of a simple device, you will facilitate this part of the work for yourself.

Take a piece of any plastic, for example, an L-shaped profile and cut it so as to get an even strip of plastic about 7 cm wide. On the reverse side, glue sandpaper onto double-sided tape and cut a strip of plastic into pieces of 17-20 cm. Cut the corners so that the grater resembles the shape of a pencil. You can even combine different grits on the same surface of your mini grater.

Now you have a handy tool that you can use in hard to reach places. Work with a corner, and as it wears, cut it off.

Dust protection

Remember that sanding is a dusty job and small particles will penetrate even through the cracks of the doors and settle throughout the apartment. Therefore, before starting, it is better to spend a little more time preparing than later on painfully getting rid of all-penetrating dust.

Stock up on special furniture protection film (it costs a penny), and cover with it everything that cannot be taken out of the room, carefully securing it with tape. We cover plastic windows with a film and seal them around the perimeter. We hang one wet towel on top of the door, plug the vertical gap with the second, and put the third under the threshold.

Be sure to work in a respiratory mask and goggles, and do not forget to shake out clothes before washing.

How to sand the walls after putty

When the tool is ready, dust measures have been taken, you can get to work. Lighting is an important part of it: turn on a spotlight or flashlight next to the wall and you will clearly see all the bumps. At this stage, it is useful to mark the work plan on the surface: bumps, depressions and other defects will give a shadow from the light - circle them with a pencil. When you get to work, this will serve as a hint.

We start grinding from the corner and go down in a strip about a meter wide. Then we rise again and go down. We grind, slightly pressing on the putty, with spiral movements.

In the process, we look at the surface: if it is already smooth enough, do not go in cycles and move on: excessive zeal can lead to holes in the putty.

If you started sanding with one grid or paper number, finish with it.

If suddenly you notice a small depression, a flaw, you don’t need to rub around it, trying to bring it level - here you also risk erasing the putty. Leave it alone, you will return to it when the sanding is finished and the wall is primed. With a rubber spatula, carefully, you will putty this area flush with the wall.

How to check if the surface is perfect when the work is finished? The first way is to direct the light from the lamp close along the wall, the bright light will clearly highlight all the flaws. The second way is to attach the usual building level to the plane and move it, observing if cracks form. If you notice gaps, it means that a little more putty was put somewhere. We correct the defect with a grinding bar.

However, even at this stage it cannot be said that the work on preparing the wall is over. After grinding, all of it remains covered with a layer of fine dust, which can greatly harm when wallpapering or painting. There are two ways to remove dust:

with an old vacuum cleaner, which is not a pity, we vacuum the wall;
brush off excess dust with a soft bristle brush, then wring out the rag well and wipe the wall. It is very important that the rag is just slightly damp, as gypsum-based putty is afraid of water and is washed out. If you wipe the wall in several steps, then wait until it dries after the first time.

Speaking about how to wipe the walls after putty, it would not be superfluous to recall: putty is a very soft, pliable material, and therefore, working with it can be made enjoyable by taking into account the useful tips of our article.

Polishing or sanding walls is the last step in preparing them for wallpapering or painting. The procedure is necessary, because even after applying the finishing putty layer, there are still small tubercles, irregularities that appear due to the sharp ends of the spatula.

In the photo - grinding surfaces by hand

Below we will consider in detail the manual method of grinding walls, which is often used in home construction, and also touch on mechanized surface treatment.

Tip: do not use a primer after puttying, as grinding is done on putty.

What is used for sanding walls

Materials and tools include:

manual skinner, which means a grinding standard beam;
special grinding sponge with cut corners, used for hard-to-reach points;
sanding net or sandpaper;

a portable lamp or spotlight, so you need good lighting;
high table or stepladder;
a small spatula will not interfere;
mask or respirator for respiratory protection, headgear and goggles.

Do not neglect eye and breathing protection, as the sanding process creates a cloud of fine plaster. Below will be described how to grind the putty on the walls and how best to do it.

Emery grit

Grinding can be done with a special sanding mesh having a different cell area, or with simple sandpaper. The main advantage of the first is that it is not clogged with dust and debris from putty ().

Emery is also a good choice for do-it-yourself sanding, and its price is somewhat less. However, on large areas it will have to be changed frequently, especially if it is fine-grained.

To determine its granularity, there are special numbers:

macro-sizes - No. 20-220;
microsizes - No. 240-2500.

Everything is simple here, if the number is larger, then the skin is smaller, the smaller number is coarser. For homework, Nos. 60-360 are most often used, less often a little smaller.

Sanding after sanding

The main rule when repairing a house is that sanding the walls after puttying is first carried out with coarse-grained sandpaper, and the last stage with fine-grained sandpaper. In this situation, after the first layer of putty, use numbers 120-180. It is possible and 80-100, but it will already be “rough” enough, so we will not advise.

When you cover the wall with a second layer of finishing putty, use emery with numbers 220-280 and below. In general, the choice of sandpaper and sanding mesh depends on the base coat. How to sand the walls after putty correctly will be described below.

Sanding the walls

Before starting the process:

wait for the previous layer of putty to dry;
put on a mask, goggles and headgear;
prepare good lighting. Direct the light on the surface to be treated from one side and at an angle;
remove too large bumps and protrusions with a small spatula.

The instruction will tell in detail about the manual process of grinding walls:

Choose the right sanding grit. Small numbers for starting grinding.

Tip: Purchase several types of emery with different grit in the supply store, for example, Nos. 100-180 and Nos. 220-360.

If there is any doubt about the correct choice of the product, go through a small area with it - there will be scratches, then it is better to take a larger skin number. Otherwise, the paint will not be able to cover such defects.

When preparing a wall for wallpapering, you don’t have to worry about minor flaws and scratches. They will be hidden by subsequent finishing. Grinding under the wallpaper is done much faster, since coarse emery can be used in this situation.

Attach the selected coarse sandpaper to the sanding beam with clamps and start polishing the surface. This should be done from top to bottom in small sections along the base surface, about 1-1.5 m.

Sand the surface with uniform circular movements of the hand. The scheme is also allowed - "left-right" and "up-down".

While doing this, press the sanding bar against the wall with little effort. Also, do not stay in one area for a long time, as this may lead to surface defects.

Work on the intended area, make sure it is smooth - move on. When you notice very large pits on the surface of the wall, do not touch them with sandpaper, you will putty later.

Move on to hard to reach places and corners after you finish polishing the main part of the surface. Use special grinding sponges with beveled corners for this. It is worth buying them in advance at the construction market or in the store.

Tip: do not sand the corners indoors with a skinner, as there is a chance that they will have to be refilled.

You can replace a special corner sponge using the “grandfather's tool”: take a small sheet of emery, roll it up and gently clean the place, as if with a rag.

Remove debris, dust, do wet cleaning. Check for cracks and other visible defects on the surface. Apply the last finishing coat of putty.

Start fine-grained final sanding. Here you should use an abrasive with large numbers. The working technology of the process does not differ from the starting grinding. The only thing to do is to move the light as close to the wall surface as possible, and the movement of the hands should not be so sweeping. This stage is the last in the grinding process.

Clean again, prime the walls before applying the final finish.

Mechanized surface grinding

As we already know, it is possible to start grinding work on the ceiling and walls only a day after the last layer of putty has been applied. If the temperature indoors or outdoors is appropriate, during this time it should dry completely and become solid ().

Above, we considered the manual method of grinding surfaces, which is most often used at home. However, if you have an electric grinder, the process can be greatly accelerated. In addition, the surface quality will also be greatly improved.

That is why master finishers very often use the mechanized method of surface preparation after puttying. The device is a plate made of metal or wood, on which sandpaper is attached with clamps. Handles are provided for ease of use.

The machine is much more convenient to work with than with a piece of emery. Since the finishing putty is a rather soft material and does not require significant effort when grinding, hands get tired more from moving the device.

Grinding machines are divided into three types:

tape;
flat vibration;
orbital eccentric.

The former have high productivity and it is advisable to use them when working with a thick layer of material. For finishing grinding, if you want to remove a thin layer of putty, they are not suitable.

The latter do not allow grinding work in the corners. Medium - a universal type of device that can be used in various situations.

The process of grinding with its help is not difficult. It is necessary to process the selected area with a little pressure in a circular motion so that it becomes even. If you could not get the desired result the first time, repeat the grinding.

Conclusion

Finishing grinding of walls and ceilings makes it possible to prepare their surface for final finishing with wallpaper, paint and other materials. For this, a manual and mechanized method is used, the choice depends on the strength of the putty layer, the type of defects and the processing area ().

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

It is almost impossible to perfectly evenly putty the surface of the walls. In any case, traces of a spatula, cavities, tubercles, and uneven transitions of the solution may remain on the surface. To even out these defects, there is a special procedure: sanding or sanding the walls after puttying. To find out how the putty on the walls is polished, you need to familiarize yourself with the list of tools necessary to complete the work.

What might be needed for grinding?

Abrasive mesh of several types and sandpaper.
Beam for grinding.
Sanding sponge.
Lamp or spotlight.
Stepladder or scaffold.
Small spatula.
Headgear, goggles, respirator.

Advice! To make the sanding process less time-consuming in the future, use a trowel of maximum width when filling surfaces. It will leave fewer stripes behind.

The advantage of the abrasive mesh is in its structure. When working, dust passes through the holes and does not clog on it, as happens with sandpaper. The mesh is changed as it wears out, which is easy to determine by its external condition: it may begin to tear or if the grinding process has become less effective. Most often, the mesh sizes match the size of the sanding bar, so you can simply place the mesh on it and get to work. The skin for starting putty should be with a standard size of 80-100, and for finishing - 220-240. The cost of the mesh is slightly higher than the price of sandpaper.

Sandpaper is constantly clogged with dust during operation and needs to be changed more often than the mesh. In hardware stores, sandpaper is sold in rolls, large pieces and small rollers. If you decide to opt for it, you should immediately decide how to cut sandpaper with a minimum of waste in order to attach it to a bar. You can buy ready-made cut pieces of sandpaper, but such a purchase will cost more. It is recommended to use 60-100 grit sandpaper. Since the sandpaper with a grain size of less than 60 is coarse, and with a grain size of more than 100 it will quickly become clogged with construction debris.

Overalls and protective equipment

Since the process of sanding a putty surface is quite dusty, you need to stock up on protective equipment. Must have:

respirator to prevent dust from entering the lungs;
protective glasses;
headdress;
it is best to wear clothes that can be easily shaken out later so that excess debris does not subsequently enter the washing machine;
you also need to wear gloves: you can use rubber or cotton. The good thing about rubber gloves is that they keep dust out, which can make your hands rougher.

How to get the job done right

Even if you make repairs yourself, sanding the walls will not take you much time. This procedure is much simpler than plastering or puttying surfaces, but no less laborious.

Application of grinders

Repair professionals use special grinders. They allow you to significantly speed up the process of grinding the putty and make the grout better than the usual abrasive mesh with a bar. The unit is a metal or wooden plate on which sandpaper is attached with clamps. According to the principle of operation of the machine are:

orbital eccentric;

flat vibration;

tape.

Using the former does not allow you to handle the corners well enough. The use of the latter is universal. And the latter can be rationally exploited with a thick layer of putty.

Buying a grinder will cost a tidy sum, so it is not necessary to purchase it for home repairs.

Advice! Grinding the wall can be started no earlier than at the end of the day, after putting putty on it.

Grinding process

After the putty has completely hardened and dried, you can start sanding. It is very easy to start stripping: install the abrasive mesh on the bar and fix it. Your working tool is completely ready for use. It is best to start sanding the walls from the corner and work in the opposite direction. Most often, when grinding from ceiling to floor, they try to make strips about one meter wide.

Advice! Be sure to use a strong power spotlight or pendant lamp. So you can immediately see all the shortcomings and correct them. The spotlight is installed on the side of the wall. So the light will fall on it at an acute angle, and all defects will give a shadow and will be immediately noticeable.

Rub with smooth movements with a little pressure so as not to scratch the surface of the putty. In particular, this applies to sandpaper, as it is rougher than abrasive skins. Movements should not be chaotic, but consistent: up and down, left and right. In the process, be careful not to sand the same area several times. The main thing is not to overdo it. Finishing putty lends itself well to processing and with strong pressure you can erase it to concrete or drywall. So drops can turn out, and the wall will become uneven again. Therefore, if you see that no defects are observed, proceed to the next fragment of the surface.

Advice! When grinding the starting base, one should not achieve an absolutely smooth surface, since the finishing putty is still to be applied. As for the finish surface, you need to work hard here, especially if painting is supposed to finish. Acrylic paints highlight even the smallest flaws, especially if you plan to decorate the walls with light shades.

Separate nuances

There are cases when, when the solution dries, too large pits come across. In this situation, you should not waste time and effort on cleaning the putty around them with an abrasive sandpaper. Visually, it may seem that the wall has become even, but if you apply a level, it turns out that a large depression has appeared on the surface. Therefore, it is best not to touch this place yet, and after you sand the rest of the wall, carefully prime and putty it. For this, it is best to use a rubber spatula. It is quite flexible and will allow you to apply putty flush with the wall.

Upon completion of the work, you should use the level to find out if there are any problem areas on the surface that need to be puttied or sanded. The level should be firmly pressed against the wall.

Advice! Surface priming should be done strictly after grinding, and not before it. If you prime the wall before sanding, it will be possible to correct defects only if it is completely re-puttyed.

Before you start priming the walls, you need to brush off construction dust from them. To do this, take a maklovitsa with a long and soft pile. The primer should dry for 2-3 hours and after that you can paint the surfaces or paste them with wallpaper.

We choose a grinder for walls and ceilings without dust, an overview of well-known brands and analogues. Grinding walls is a rather laborious process, its complexity is that in addition to hard work, there is also an indicator of the negative impact on human health of the huge amount of dust that is released during grouting. That is why the machine for grinding walls and ceilings without dust emission is so relevant and necessary.

Overview of famous models

Festool PLANEX LHS 225.

The leader in the list of popular and high-quality products is the Festool PLANEX LHS 225 grinder.

It is a versatile, powerful and durable dust-free wall sanding system. It has different options for the length of the handles, in just one step you can make a long handle or a short one.

Inside the system is a two-stage gearbox, which guarantees high performance of the unit. The device is easy to operate thanks to the optimal location of gravity and a reliable drive with optimal parameters for a given power.

The machine can process edges, sand drywall and dry putty, remove wallpaper residues and other obsolete facing materials. The total weight of the product is about 4.5 kg, and the kit comes with an intermediate substrate and the device itself.

If we talk about the disadvantages of the system, this is a reasonable high cost, 90,000 rubles. and higher. But, despite this, the tool will serve for many years, performing tasks at a high professional level.

Festool PLANEX LHS 225-IP/CTM 36 E AC-Set

This wall grinder costs twice as much, from 160,000 rubles. What justifies such a cost? The machine is supplied with a sanding pad with a diameter of 215 mm, a backing pad, a dust extractor in a systainer.

In terms of functional features, it is similar to the above product, strong, reliable, durable, light in weight due to adjustable suction power, allows you to treat even the most hard-to-reach places thanks to the brush segment.

The system is used for first-class finishing of the room, a mechanical lock prevents the hose from disconnecting during work, effective dust removal takes place, harmful particles do not spread in the air, but are placed in a special compartment.

Stored securely in the maxi case, this "suitcase" has room for a second extension cord. The unit is used with a support vest with a belt, the additional handle is installed and removed in one second. So the unit can be used even by a beginner, being in complete safety and confidence while grinding various surfaces.

MIRKA DEROS - electric random orbital sander

The following wall and ceiling grinder impresses with its advantages:

compact;
ergonomic;
powerful in its class;
has high performance;
brushless motor;
inexpensive consumables for the product.

The cost of the product is from 20,000 rubles, which is an order of magnitude lower than the above designs. Supplied without external power supply, there is a patented speed controller. Yes, the vibration level is slightly lower compared to analogues, but the power will be enough even for complex operations.

This wall and ceiling sander has an innovative soleplate for effective dust removal, an electric motor brake and a soleplate brake. That allows you to safely use the unit even for a beginner in this matter.

The machine is easy to hold with two hands, convenient start lever, the product is easily turned on and off. And the brushless motor guarantees a constant speed even under heavy load. The case has a closed design, the engine is firmly protected from dust and debris entering the system.

The electric wall and ceiling grinder is ideally suited for various operations, allowing you to process various types of surfaces. It is characterized by high productivity, allows you to fully control the grinding process. More.

Sturm DWS6016 with a disc diameter of 225 mm

For those who want to sand the walls without dust, we can advise you to purchase this system, with a cost of about 15,000 rubles. The price is affordable, the machine is an ideal tool for preparing various surfaces for subsequent painting or wallpapering.
The large diameter of the 225 mm grinding wheel makes it easy to overcome large areas in a short time, and thanks to the well-thought-out ergonomics of the product, the likelihood of comfortable, safe and efficient sanding of dry plaster is increased.

The work is carried out without dust, the risk of harmful gizmos entering the human body is reduced. The following benefits:

a rotating connector is installed on the hose, the risk of clogging the grinding disc and dust entering the space is reduced;
the grinding head has the ability to rotate, following the contours of the surface, thanks to such a system, we can talk about a high professional result;
sanding putty without dust - the room will not need additional cleaning;
controlled balance;
light weight, about 3.5 kg, will allow you to work for a long time without feeling tired;
the speed control gives from 600 to 1000 rpm.

Using such a system, you can rely on a decent result for a fairly reasonable amount.

Professional builders always carry out repairs with high quality, neatly and beautifully. How to learn to do repair operations in such an impeccable style? For example, competently perform sanding of the walls after puttying, in order to then apply the finish coat you like. We offer a step-by-step briefing for masters in such a difficult and responsible business as wall polishing.

Sanding the wall is a mandatory procedure after plastering.

Purpose of wall polishing

Surface sanding is the work that follows the plastering process and consists in smoothing out unevenness on the dried layer.

Plastering the surface of the walls pursues the following tasks:

insulation of the room outside and inside the building with an additional sand-cement or gypsum layer;
sealing irregularities, cracks, chips on the surface;
giving an aesthetic appearance;
preparation for subsequent design processing;
an obstacle to moisture permeability, the development of fungus, the creation of additional adhesion, sound absorption and other things.

Sanding the walls before applying the finish coat

A plaster mixture is a cement-sand, gypsum, lime, magnesia composition, including various large and small fractions that cannot be dissolved (that is, they are not able to turn into a perfectly smooth mass). For this reason, high-quality grinding of the walls after puttying is always required.

Often in professional terminology there are the words "grinding" or "sanding". You need to know that such definitions are synonymous words. Their practical significance is reduced to one function: leveling the plastered surface to perfect smoothness.

Wall sanding is a must.

How to properly sand putty

In order for the work to be possible even for a non-specialist, and the result turned out to be “on top”, it is necessary to decide in advance: how and with what to grind the walls after puttying? The first rule to remember is that the exposure time must be taken into account, i.e. it is necessary to start smoothing the surface no earlier than after the expiration of a day from the moment the plastering is completed. This is necessary so that the layer of applied cement-sand (or other type) material dries thoroughly.

In modern construction and repair business, two completely different methods of sanding are used:

dry method;
wet method.

There are advantages and disadvantages to each of them.

Grinding can be done in different ways

The main differences of the presented methods

For those who want to know how to sand the walls after puttying without dust, the wet sanding method is ideal. The main feature is that wet sanding of putty requires that a well-dried plastered surface be re-wetted with high quality. Dry the treated wall for a day, then wet it again? At first glance, it is illogical. But, it is the repeated wetting that will increase the adhesive properties of the plaster material, as well as gently remove irregularities. And most importantly - to really reduce the amount of dust.

Wet sanding generates much less dust

After this method of surface treatment, it is sufficient to perform wet cleaning of the floor.

Dry sanding of putty does not involve re-wetting the wall. Here, work is performed precisely on the dried section of the wall or ceiling. The disadvantage of this method is the abundant appearance of dust that floats in the air and settles on everything not only within the room. To clean the room from accumulations of dust and layers of plaster removed from the wall, it will not be enough just to wash the floor. Here you need high-quality ventilation, air irrigation from a spray bottle, dust removal throughout the apartment.

The disadvantage of dry grinding is the strong appearance of dust.

How to sand the walls?

Correctly smoothing the walls or ceiling after puttying means performing all operations in strict order. And the first operation is the choice of a tool for adjusting the outer surface of the walls. The specifics of the work is determined by the type of canvas to be sanded and the quality requirements for the final result.

Depending on the required degree of smoothing (leveling the surface for wallpapering or achieving perfect smoothness for finishing painting the walls), the approach to completing the task will be different.

Before you start sanding the walls, decide on the tool

How to sand the walls after plastering?

Among the essential construction tools at hand, it is worth pointing out the following.

Good lighting is essential for quality work.

Stages of work or how to properly sand the walls after puttying

The surface treated (for example) with a gypsum mixture has dried for more than a day, and now you can start smoothing it out.

You need to start with a detailed analysis of the plastered walls (ceiling). Direct the light source perpendicular to the wall and as close as possible to carefully examine the condition of the coating and any irregularities. Circle all identified defects with a simple pencil. It is undesirable to use a marker, because. the remnants of the coloring matter absorbed into the wall will be difficult to remove.

Having studied the top layer visually (i.e., having examined all the irregularities, protruding fractions and other defects), it is easy to determine which mesh should be chosen at the beginning of the work for grinding the putty, i.e. sandpaper grain size. As mentioned above, you need to complete the work with a grid with the largest possible grain.

You need to start work with a detailed analysis of the surface

Sanding the wall putty starts from the ceiling and in a clockwise circular motion, the movement is directed downwards. It is convenient to capture the territory of the wall in narrow strips (up to 1 m). You should not apply force when performing, because. as a result, the top layer can be severely damaged.

In the assortment of building materials there is a starting type of putty and a finishing one. The latter has a smoother appearance of the coating and, when choosing which sandpaper to sand (edit) the finishing putty, you should give preference to smoother types of sandpaper (No. 200-220). The movements of the master should also be light, careful.

When choosing a skin for puttying walls after the starting coating, there are no special requirements. The main thing is that the final result is good.

When choosing a skin for puttying walls after the starting coating, there are no special requirements

How to sand the ceiling after puttying

Grinding work on the surface of the walls from the ceiling operations are practically no different. The scheme of work is the same: we select the material, inspect the surface for defects, remove defects with improvised or mechanized means.

The complexity of repair work with the ceiling lies in the physical inconvenience for the master. You should not use a ladder or tripod; scaffolding is more convenient in this matter.

The ceiling grinding scheme is no different from wall work

Rush in the process of smoothing the ceiling or walls is not needed! Neither when choosing a consumable tool, nor when doing work. All tasks are done carefully, carefully and slowly.

If you can not choose which sandpaper to sand putty, ask for advice from a specialist repairer or sales assistant. As a last resort, try each tool on a small area, controlling the force and speed of movement over the surface.

Novice craftsmen should not use mechanized tools. It is more reasonable to carry out the first experiments on adjusting the outer wall covering with improvised means (sandpaper, abrasive mesh, etc.)

Grinding of surfaces must be done carefully and slowly

Monitoring the process of sanding walls and ceilings after puttying

This is perhaps the most important rule for an employee. The process of control is concluded in the following points.

Do not change the location of the light source to avoid refraction of light rays.
Perform operations in small areas, moving from top to bottom.
If defects in work are found (for example, an area that has been cleaned too much), this place should be re-plastered, wait until the material dries, and sand again.
Use a quality tool and follow the instructions carefully.
Check the evenness of the cleaned (polished) surface with a building level or a ruler under the light source: if the shadow does not fall, then the ruler fits absolutely, i.e. turned out to be a perfectly flat plane.

Video: Sanding walls for painting

Video: Sanding walls

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