Modern fasteners for wooden structures. Fasteners for wooden structures. Gluing and fixing technique
Hello crafters! It is you who will first of all benefit from recommendations on the use of metal fasteners for wooden structures.
Popular buildings for amateur craftsmen are all kinds of sheds, sheds, gazebos. But how to use fastener for wood in their construction, not everyone knows. This article will list the most common methods of using fasteners for wooden structures.
During the construction of wooden structures, one can often see how carpenters, using carpentry and carpentry tools, assemble wooden truss structures, connect various beams. The use of joinery and carpentry in construction requires considerable experience and skill. Therefore, for an amateur master, such connections are most often sloppy. The solution to this problem is seen in the use of metal fasteners for wooden structures.
The use of fasteners can greatly facilitate the installation work and save time. In this case, the installation can be performed by a person who does not have special training and sufficient skills in construction.
In the manufacture of metal fasteners for wooden structures, sheet steel up to 2 mm thick is used with holes pre-drilled for mounting for nails and bolts. Because of these holes metal fasteners also called perforated. To protect against corrosion, all products are galvanized.
According to their purpose, all fasteners are divided into four groups: mounting plates, mounting angles, fasteners for connecting at a right angle, fasteners for connecting at an angle other than a right angle. Such a division of perforated fasteners according to its purpose is most convenient for a beginner, because. reflects its use in assembly work.
Mounting plates
1. Mounting plate 2.5 to 3 mm thick, 96 to 180 mm long. Has holes for nails and bolts.
2. T-fixing plates with holes for nails and for hex bolts. They have dimensions of 80 × 86x2 mm and 160 × 98x2.5 mm.
3. Extended mounting plates up to 400mm long and perforated plates up to 1250mm long.
Mounting brackets
4. Used for light connections. They are made of steel with a thickness of 2 mm and have a size of 40 × 40x20 mm.
5 and 6. Used for corner connection of heavy beams in vertical or horizontal planes. They have dimensions from 40 × 40x60 mm to 100 × 100x100 mm.
7. The perforated mounting bracket has additional holes for the hex bolt.
8. Reinforced mounting bracket.
9. Perforated metal angle with holes for hex bolt with locknut.
Right Angle Fasteners
10. Great for joining cross beams. The thickness of the metal mount is 2 mm, the width is 33 mm, the length varies from 170 mm to 330 mm.
11. Reinforced corner for rigid connection not only of L-shaped structures, but also of cruciform connections. There are holes for hex bolts.
12. Used for rigid connection of massive beams with external holes. There are holes for hex bolts. Width from 40 to 160 mm.
13. The mount is designed for a massive beam with an internal location of the mounting holes.
14. Two-section fasteners. Ideal for working with a bar of non-standard section.
Fasteners for connecting at an angle other than straight
15. Mounting brackets for connecting parts at an angle of 135 degrees. Used in the installation of roof structures, roofs of gazebos, pergolas. Can be bent to any angle. They have dimensions from 50 × 50x40 mm to 90 × 90x65 mm.
16. Fasteners universal. Due to its design, it is used in joining beams at different angles. It has a short length of 40 mm and a total length of 120 mm.
17. It is used when assembling the truss structure, attaching the batten to the rafters and the rafters to the support beam.
18. Mounting bracket. Used to fasten battens and rafters.
What should be fasteners for lumber? Wood is a fairly soft material, especially when compared with other types of arrays. However, the physical properties of wooden parts used in construction can vary greatly depending on their percentage of moisture, the species used, the growing conditions of the trees ... The structure is not uniform even in different parts of the same log. In any case, the fastener must hold well in the fibers and securely fix any details. To increase the friction force, nails are very often knurled or brushed, and self-tapping screws have large threads.
Reliability of fasteners on wood
Most wood fasteners in Moscow are made from galvanized and phosphated steel or metals that do not rust (for example, there are nails made of aluminum, copper). Only some types of products are made of ferrous metal, but only those that are used in draft structures - building nails, hardened roofing brackets. The protective coating allows you to significantly increase the service life of fasteners, but, in addition, the aesthetic properties of the product are improved by an order of magnitude, because red spots and rust stains will be excluded.
The design of modern fasteners is thought out to the smallest detail. So, there are dozens of types of self-tapping screws that are designed for certain jobs, each of them has its own characteristics. For example, a roofing fastener has a drill on the tip that can drill through sheet metal, and a large rubberized washer. And structural yellow self-tapping screws have a complex carving on the body (sometimes incomplete) and a special tip. The finishing nail has a very small head, and the galvanized nail for fixing the OSB, on the contrary, is quite large. There are fasteners with a conical head under the sweat, and there are - with a flat one. There are many length options available.
Almost all of these fasteners (including perforated ones) are operated under load, so they must be resistant to bending and shearing effects. High-quality fasteners for wood do not break, in extreme cases, they can only bend. For certain works, you can choose products of different thicknesses, this applies to both nails / self-tapping screws, and perforated plates / corners.
Types of fasteners for wood
Nails
This is perhaps one of the most famous and proven types of components for construction work. For this fastener for wood, the price is the most affordable, but it is distinguished by practicality and functionality. A nail is a metal rod cut from wire, which has a point at one end and a flat cap at the other.
During use, the product is hammered with a conventional hammer, or can be combined into tapes and loaded into a nail gun. Nails can be used alone or in combination with perforated fasteners.
The size of the cap differs in size, depending on whether the nail should be recessed or the part should be pressed more securely. The rod may have notches to increase the friction forces, because it is with their help that the nails are held in the wood. The length (in fact, as well as the thickness) of the nail is selected according to the nature of the connection and the type of loads experienced by the assembly.
Depending on the purpose for which the nails are intended, they are divided into several main types. If we talk about construction, then this:
- Black nails for construction
- Galvanized with a large hat,
- ruffed,
- screw,
- finishing,
- roofing felt,
- Slate.
self-tapping screws
This is a modern fixture, has high efficiency and is also very practical. The cost of fasteners for this type of wood is more than that of nails, but it also has many advantages.
The highlight of the self-tapping screw is that it takes advantage of the plasticity of wood. That is, it allows screwing without pre-drilling. Due to the wide thread pitch and its increased height (for example, metal screws have more frequent and lower threads), this fastener fits tightly into any wood fibers and keeps well there. At the same time, such a connection remains collapsible, while it is extremely rare to separate wooden parts knocked down with nails without damage.
The design of the thread and the tip is focused on easy entry into the tree. A drill at the end of wood screws is usually not used. The hat is made with a cone for sinking in, or flat, for the types "press washer", "roofing screw". The thread can be solid or partial. There are many options for the thickness and length of products.
To use self-tapping screws, a drill or screwdriver is needed, although, in theory, small items in small quantities can be screwed with a screwdriver. To transmit rotation from the tool, there are slots on the head of the screw. The shape of the slots may vary. As a rule, PH or PZ formats are used - this must be taken into account when choosing a bit.
Among the many types of wood screws, the most popular were:
- phosphated (black);
- galvanized (yellow);
- roofing (white and painted);
- screws with a hexagonal or profile head (including: capercaillie, with a ring, with a hook, L-shaped crutch screw, capercaillie with a spring).
Threaded metric connections
Nails and screws are not the only components that can be used to assemble wooden structures. The most loaded or most voluminous nodes are twisted by means of bolts and studs. Together with nuts and washers, these hardware allow you to get the most reliable fixation, because you can press the parts very tightly against each other, use rods of increased diameter (which means they are very strong). An obvious plus is the ability to disassemble and assemble structures several times.
Studs and bolts are installed through a through hole, which must be drilled in each of the fastened parts. Direct fixation is carried out by tightening the nuts. Large washers allow for more footprint and prevent nuts/heads from sinking into the wood.
Perforated fasteners
This type of fasteners is designed to speed up the installation of wooden building elements. Thanks to such products, it became possible to avoid the technically complex (and labor-intensive) production of tie-ins and locks in wood. If cutting wood actually underestimated the cross section of parts, then perforated products made it possible to assemble end-to-end, moreover, with an increase in the reliability of the assembly. Therefore, there is no need to increase the cross section of lumber, as before. Accordingly, it will turn out to unload the house and save money, although before making calculations it seems that buying perforated wood fasteners is a rather expensive decision.
Another advantage of such products lies in the increase in the speed of construction. Connections with corners and plates can be easily made by non-professionals, because all that is needed is to cut a beam or board more or less exactly in length.
Perforated fasteners are presented in a wide range. They are integrated into a system and cover all the needs of modern wooden and general construction. They are made of sheet metal with a thickness of one and a half to 5 mm, in which there are a large number of holes (round small, large for anchors, long slots for sliding fixations). All products are galvanized, completely ready for use. Among all perforated fasteners, several types are distinguished by design and scope of use, first of all, these are corners, plates, supports, tapes.
Price list
wood fastener prices
| Product name | Variant name | The price of the product | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Glue for plywood and parquet Artelit 21 kg | Bucket 21 kg | RUB 4,200.00 | ||
| Roofing bat | 6 mm | RUB 60.00 | ||
| 8 mm | RUB 65.00 | |||
| 10 mm | RUB 70.00 | |||
| 12 mm | RUB 75.00 | |||
| 13 mm | RUB 80.00 | |||
| 17 mm | RUB 90.00 | |||
| 25 mm | RUB 220.00 | |||
| 30 mm | RUB 220.00 | |||
| 40 mm | RUB 220.00 | |||
| 50 mm | RUB 220.00 | |||
| Mounting foam | Macroflex (prof.) | RUB 360.00 | ||
| Macroflex | RUB 300.00 | |||
| Titan (prof.) | RUB 380.00 | |||
| Titanium | RUB 320.00 | |||
| Wooden dowel | with a knot | RUB 14.00 | ||
| without a knot | RUB 18.00 | |||
| Self-tapping screw for wood yellow | 3x25mm | RUB 380.00 | ||
| 3x30mm | RUB 350.00 | |||
| 3x35mm | RUB 350.00 | |||
| 3x40mm | RUB 350.00 | |||
| 3.5x16mm | RUB 350.00 | |||
| 3.5x40mm | RUB 350.00 | |||
| 4x35mm | RUB 330.00 | |||
| 4x50mm | RUB 330.00 | |||
| 4x60mm | RUB 330.00 | |||
| 4x70mm | RUB 330.00 | |||
| 5x40mm | RUB 330.00 | |||
| 5x50mm | RUB 330.00 | |||
| 5x60mm | RUB 330.00 | |||
| 5x70mm | RUB 330.00 | |||
| 5x80mm | RUB 330.00 | |||
| 5x100mm | RUB 330.00 | |||
| 5x120mm | RUB 330.00 | |||
| 6x40mm | RUB 330.00 | |||
| 6x50mm | RUB 330.00 | |||
| 6x60mm | RUB 330.00 | |||
| Black wood screw | 3.5x16 mm | RUB 240.00 | ||
| 3.5x19 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| 3.5x25 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| 3.5x32 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| 3.5x35 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| 3.5x41 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| 3.5x45 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| 3.5x51 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| 3.5x55 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| 4.2x64 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| 4.2x70 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| 4.2x76 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| 4.8x90 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| 4.8x95 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| 4.8x100 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| 4.8x127 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| 4.8x140 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| 4.8x150 mm | RUB 240.00 | |||
| Construction nails black | 1.8x20mm | RUB 98.00 | ||
| 1.8x25mm | RUB 98.00 | |||
| 2.5x40mm | RUB 98.00 | |||
| 2.5x50mm | RUB 98.00 | |||
| 2.5x60mm | RUB 98.00 | |||
| 3x70mm | RUB 98.00 | |||
| 3x80mm | RUB 98.00 | |||
| 3.5x90mm | RUB 98.00 | |||
| 4x100mm | RUB 98.00 | |||
| 4x120mm | RUB 98.00 | |||
| 5x150mm | RUB 98.00 | |||
| 8x250mm | RUB 98.00 | |||
| 8x300mm | RUB 98.00 | |||
| Sliding support for rafters | 40x120 mm | RUB 70.00 | ||
| 40x160 mm | RUB 80.00 | |||
| 40x200 mm | RUB 90.00 | |||
| Beam staples, hardened | 6x150 mm | RUB 20.00 | ||
| 6x200 mm | RUB 22.00 | |||
| 6x250 mm | RUB 24.00 | |||
| 8x200 mm | RUB 26.00 | |||
| 8x250 mm | RUB 28.00 | |||
| 8x300 mm | RUB 30.00 | |||
| Perforated metal corner | 20x40 mm | standard | RUB 8.00 | |
| 40x40 mm | standard | RUB 14.00 | ||
| 50x35 mm | reinforced | RUB 15.00 | ||
| 50x50 mm | standard | RUB 20.00 | ||
| 70x55 mm | reinforced | RUB 26.00 | ||
| 90x40 mm | reinforced | RUB 32.00 | ||
| 90x65 mm | reinforced | RUB 34.00 | ||
| 105x90 mm | reinforced | RUB 47.00 | ||
| 130x100 mm | reinforced | RUB 62.00 | ||
| 140x140 mm | reinforced | RUB 120.00 | ||
| Perforated mounting plate | 100 x 35 x 2mm | RUB 18.50 | ||
| 140 x 55 x 2mm | RUB 29.00 | |||
| 180 x 40 x 2mm | RUB 39.00 | |||
| 180 x 65 x 2mm | RUB 49.00 | |||
| 210 x 90 x 2mm | RUB 59.00 | |||
| timber support | 110 mm | 50 mm | RUB 80.00 | |
| 140 mm | 50 mm | RUB 90.00 | ||
| 165 mm | 50 mm | RUB 100.00 | ||
| 180 mm | 50 mm | RUB 110.00 | ||
| 100 mm | 100 mm | RUB 120.00 | ||
| 160 mm | 100 mm | RUB 130.00 | ||
| 200 mm | 100 mm | RUB 140.00 | ||
| 150 mm | 150 mm | RUB 150.00 | ||
| Screw for fastening logs and rails (wood grouse) | 60 mm | 6 mm | RUB 40.00 | |
| 80 mm | 6 mm | RUB 50.00 | ||
| 100 mm | 6 mm | RUB 60.00 | ||
| 50 mm | 8 mm | RUB 50.00 | ||
| 60 mm | 8 mm | RUB 70.00 | ||
| 80 mm | 8 mm | RUB 85.00 | ||
| 100 mm | 8 mm | RUB 100.00 | ||
| 120 mm | 8 mm | RUB 120.00 | ||
| 130 mm | 8 mm | RUB 140.00 | ||
| 160 mm | 8 mm | RUB 160.00 | ||
| 180 mm | 8 mm | RUB 195.00 | ||
| 200 mm | 8 mm | RUB 240.00 | ||
| 60 mm | 10 mm | RUB 120.00 | ||
| 70 mm | 10 mm | RUB 140.00 | ||
| 80 mm | 10 mm | RUB 160.00 | ||
| 100 mm | 10 mm | RUB 180.00 | ||
| 120 mm | 10 mm | RUB 220.00 | ||
| 160 mm | 10 mm | RUB 260.00 | ||
| 180 mm | 10 mm | RUB 290.00 | ||
| 200 mm | 10 mm | RUB 320.00 | ||
| 220 mm | 10 mm | RUB 350.00 | ||
| 240 mm | 10 mm | RUB 390.00 | ||
| 260 mm | 10 mm | RUB 420.00 | ||
| 120 mm | 12 mm | RUB 290.00 | ||
| 160 mm | 12 mm | RUB 370.00 | ||
| 180 mm | 12 mm | RUB 390.00 | ||
| 200 mm | 12 mm | RUB 410.00 | ||
| 240 mm | 12 mm | RUB 480.00 | ||
| 260 mm | 12 mm | RUB 500.00 | ||
| 280 mm | 12 mm | RUB 580.00 | ||
| 300 mm | 12 mm | RUB 720.00 | ||
| Screw (capercaillie) with a spring | 10x200 mm | RUB 124.00 | ||
| 10x220 mm | RUB 134.00 | |||
| Screw ring | 8x120 mm | RUB 25.00 | ||
| 8x160 mm | RUB 30.00 | |||
| 10x220 mm | RUB 50.00 | |||
| Bolt | M6 | RUB 180.00 | ||
| M8 | RUB 180.00 | |||
| M10 | RUB 180.00 | |||
| M12 | RUB 180.00 | |||
| M14 | RUB 180.00 | |||
| M16 | RUB 180.00 | |||
| M18 | RUB 180.00 | |||
| M20 | RUB 180.00 | |||
| M22 | RUB 180.00 | |||
| M24 | RUB 180.00 | |||
| Washer | M6 | RUB 195.00 | ||
| M8 | RUB 195.00 | |||
| M10 | RUB 195.00 | |||
| M12 | RUB 195.00 | |||
| M14 | RUB 195.00 | |||
| M16 | RUB 195.00 | |||
| M18 | RUB 195.00 | |||
| M20 | RUB 195.00 | |||
| M22 | RUB 195.00 | |||
| M24 | RUB 195.00 | |||
| screw | M6 | RUB 190.00 | ||
| M8 | RUB 190.00 | |||
| M10 | RUB 190.00 | |||
| M12 | RUB 190.00 | |||
| M14 | RUB 190.00 | |||
| M16 | RUB 190.00 | |||
| M18 | RUB 190.00 | |||
| M20 | RUB 190.00 | |||
| M22 | RUB 190.00 | |||
| M24 | RUB 190.00 | |||
| Threaded stud | M6 | 1m | RUB 39.00 | |
| M8 | 1m | RUB 58.00 | ||
| M10 | 1m | RUB 70.00 | ||
| M12 | 1m | RUB 90.00 | ||
| M14 | 1m | RUB 129.00 | ||
| M16 | 1m | RUB 155.00 | ||
| M20 | 1m | RUB 245.00 | ||
| M22 | 1m | RUB 310.00 | ||
| M24 | 1m | RUB 380.00 | ||
| M6 | 2 m | RUB 78.00 | ||
| M8 | 2 m | RUB 116.00 | ||
| M10 | 2 m | RUB 140.00 | ||
| M12 | 2 m | RUB 180.00 | ||
| M14 | 2 m | RUB 258.00 | ||
| M16 | 2 m | RUB 310.00 | ||
| M20 | 2 m | RUB 490.00 | ||
| M22 | 2 m | RUB 620.00 | ||
| M24 | 2 m | RUB 760.00 | ||
| Finishing nails | 30 mm | 1 kg | RUB 200.00 | |
| 40 mm | 1 kg | RUB 200.00 | ||
| 50 mm | 1 kg | RUB 200.00 | ||
| 60 mm | 1 kg | RUB 200.00 | ||
| 30 mm | 5 kg | RUB 1,000.00 | ||
| 40 mm | 5 kg | RUB 1,000.00 | ||
| 50 mm | 5 kg | RUB 1,000.00 | ||
| 60 mm | 5 kg | RUB 1,000.00 | ||
| 100 mm | 1 kg | RUB 200.00 | ||
| 120 mm | 1 kg | RUB 200.00 | ||
| 150 mm | 1 kg | RUB 200.00 | ||
| 32 mm | 5 kg | RUB 1,000.00 | ||
| 40 mm | 5 kg | RUB 1,000.00 | ||
| 50 mm | 5 kg | RUB 1,000.00 | ||
| 60 mm | 5 kg | RUB 1,000.00 | ||
| 70 mm | 5 kg | RUB 1,000.00 | ||
| 80 mm | 5 kg | RUB 1,000.00 | ||
| 100 mm | 5 kg | RUB 1,000.00 | ||
| 120 mm | 5 kg | RUB 1,000.00 | ||
| Galvanized roofing screw | 4.8x29 mm | Metal + Wood | RUB 21.00 | |
| 4.8x38 mm | Metal + Wood | RUB 24.00 | ||
| 4.8x51 mm | Metal + Wood | RUB 26.00 | ||
| 4.8x76 mm | Metal + Wood | RUB 28.00 | ||
| 5.5x19 mm | Metal | RUB 21.00 | ||
| 5.5x25 mm | Metal | RUB 23.00 | ||
| 5.5x32 mm | Metal | RUB 26.00 | ||
| 5.5x51 mm | Metal | RUB 28.00 | ||
| 5.5x76 mm | Metal | RUB 34.00 | ||
| Painted roofing screw | RAL 8017 brown | 4.8x29 mm | Metal + Wood | RUB 26.00 |
| RAL 6005 green | 4.8x29 mm | Metal + Wood | RUB 26.00 | |
| RAL 3005 cherry | 4.8x29 mm | Metal + Wood | RUB 26.00 | |
| RAL 8017 brown | 4.8x38 mm | Metal + Wood | RUB 28.00 | |
| RAL 6005 green | 4.8x38 mm | Metal + Wood | RUB 28.00 | |
| RAL 3005 cherry | 4.8x38 mm | Metal + Wood | RUB 28.00 | |
| RAL 8017 brown | 4.8x51 mm | Metal + Wood | RUB 35.00 | |
| RAL 6005 green | 4.8x51 mm | Metal + Wood | RUB 35.00 | |
| RAL 3005 cherry | 4.8x51 mm | Metal + Wood | RUB 35.00 | |
| RAL 8017 brown | 4.8x76 mm | Metal + Wood | RUB 45.00 | |
| RAL 6005 green | 4.8x76 mm | Metal + Wood | RUB 45.00 | |
| RAL 3005 cherry | 4.8x76 mm | Metal + Wood | RUB 45.00 | |
| RAL 8017 brown | 5.5x19 mm | Metal | RUB 27.00 | |
| RAL 6005 green | 5.5x19 mm | Metal | RUB 27.00 | |
| RAL 3005 cherry | 5.5x19 mm | Metal | RUB 27.00 | |
| RAL 8017 brown | 5.5x25 mm | Metal | RUB 32.00 | |
| RAL 6005 green | 5.5x25 mm | Metal | RUB 32.00 | |
| RAL 3005 cherry | 5.5x25 mm | Metal | RUB 32.00 | |
| RAL 8017 brown | 5.5x32 mm | Metal | RUB 37.00 | |
| RAL 6005 green | 5.5x32 mm | Metal | RUB 37.00 | |
| RAL 3005 cherry | 5.5x32 mm | Metal | RUB 37.00 | |
| RAL 8017 brown | 5.5x51 mm | Metal | RUB 43.00 | |
| RAL 6005 green | 5.5x51 mm | Metal | RUB 43.00 | |
| RAL 3005 cherry | 5.5x51 mm | Metal | RUB 43.00 | |
| RAL 8017 brown | 5.5x76 mm | Metal | RUB 50.00 | |
| RAL 6005 green | 5.5x76 mm | Metal | RUB 50.00 | |
| RAL 3005 cherry | 5.5x76 mm | Metal | RUB 50.00 | |
| Mounting bracket sliding | 40x120 mm | RUB 60.00 | ||
| 60x220 mm | RUB 90.00 | |||
| Staples for construction manual stapler | 6 mm | RUB 40.00 | ||
| 8 mm | RUB 50.00 | |||
| 10 mm | RUB 60.00 | |||
| 12 mm | RUB 70.00 | |||
| 14 mm | RUB 80.00 |
A myriad of connections can be used to connect wooden parts. The names and classifications of joinery-carpentry joints tend to vary considerably by country, region, and even school of woodworking. The craftsmanship lies in the fact that the precision of execution provides a correctly functioning connection that is able to withstand the loads intended for it.
Initial information
Connection categories
All connections (in carpentry they are called bindings) of wooden parts can be divided into three categories according to the field of application (foreign version of the classification):
- box;
- frame (frame);
- for splicing/splicing.
Drawer connections are used, for example, in the manufacture of drawers and cabinets, frame connections are used in window frames and doors, and rallying / splicing is used to obtain parts with an increased width / length.
Many joints can be used in different categories, for example, butt joints are used in all three categories.
Material preparation
Even planed lumber may need some preparation.
- Trim the material with a margin in width and thickness for further planing. Don't cut to length yet.
- Choose the best quality layer - the front side. Plane it along the entire length. Check with a straightedge.
After the final alignment, make a mark on the front side with a pencil. - Plane the front - clean - edge. Check with a straightedge, as well as a square against the front side. Smooth out warp by planing. Mark a clean edge.
- Use a thickness gauge to mark the required thickness along all edges of the part contour. Plan up to this risk. Check with a straightedge.
- Repeat the operation for the width.
- Now mark up the length and actual connections. Mark from the front side and a clean edge.
Lumber marking
Be careful when marking lumber. Make sufficient allowances for kerf width, planing thickness and joining.
All readings are taken from the front side and the clean edge, on which put the appropriate marks. In frame and cabinet designs, these marks should face inward to improve manufacturing accuracy. For ease of sorting and assembly, number the parts as they are manufactured on the front side so that, for example, it indicates that side 1 is connected to end 1.
When marking identical parts, carefully align them and make markings on all workpieces at once. This will ensure that the markup is identical. When marking profile elements, keep in mind that there can be “right” and “left” parts.
Butt joints
These are the simplest of joinery and carpentry joints. They can be included in all three categories of compounds.
Assembly
The butt joint can be reinforced with nails hammered at an angle. Drive the nails in randomly.
Trim the ends of the two pieces evenly and join them. Secure with nails or screws. Before this, glue can be applied to the parts to enhance fixation. Butt joints in frame structures can be reinforced with a steel plate or a corrugated key on the outside, or with a wooden block fixed on the inside.
Nail / dowel connections
Wooden dowels - today they are increasingly called dowels - can be used to strengthen the connection. These plug-in round spikes increase shear (shear) strength and, with adhesive, hold the assembly in place more securely. Dowel connections can be used as frame connections (furniture), drawer connections (cabinets) or for splicing (panels).
Assembling the dowel joint
1. Carefully cut out all the components to exactly the right dimensions. Mark the position of the crossbar on the face and clean edge of the upright.
2. Mark the center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar. The distance from each end must be at least half the thickness of the material. A wide bar may require more than two dowels.
Mark the center lines for the pins on the end of the crossbar and transfer them to the rack using the square.
3. Lay the upright and bar face up. On the square, transfer the center lines to the rack. Number and label all connections if there are more than one pair of uprights and crossbars.
4. Transfer this marking to the clean edge of the post and the ends of the crossbar.
5. From the front side with a thickness gauge, draw a risk in the center of the material, crossing the marking lines. This will mark the centers of the holes for the dowels.
With a thickness gauge, draw a center line, crossing the marking lines, which will show the centers of the dowel holes.
6. Using an electric drill with a twist drill or a hand drill with a spade bit, drill holes in all parts. The drill must have a center point and cutters. The hole across the fibers should be about 2.5 times the diameter of the dowel, and the hole at the end should be about 3 times the depth. For each hole, make an allowance of 2 mm, at this distance the dowel should not reach the bottom.
7. Remove excess fibers from the top of the holes with a countersink. This will also make it easier to install the dowel and create space for the adhesive to secure the joint.
Nagels
The pin should have a longitudinal groove (now standard pins are made with longitudinal ribs), through which excess glue will be removed when assembling the joint. If the dowel does not have a groove, then cut it flat on one side, which will give the same result. The ends should be chamfered to facilitate assembly and prevent damage to the hole by the dowel. And here, if the dowels do not have a chamfer, make it with a file or grind the edges of their ends.
Use of pins for marking dowels
Mark and drill the crossbars. Insert special dowel pins into the pin holes. Align the crossbar with the markings of the rack and squeeze the parts together. The tips of the teats will make marks on the rack. Drill holes through them. Alternatively, you can make a template out of a wooden block, drill holes in it, fix the template on the part and drill holes for the dowels through the holes in it.
Using a jig for a dowel connection
The metal jig for dowel connections greatly facilitates the marking and drilling of holes for dowels. In box joints, the jig can be used at the ends, but it will not work on the face of wide panels.
conductor for nail joints
1. Mark center lines on the front of the material where the dowel holes are to be. Select a suitable drill guide bushing and insert it into the jig.
2. Align the alignment marks on the side of the jig and secure the slide bearing of the guide bush.
3. Install the jig on the part. Align the center notch with the center line of the dowel hole. Tighten.
4. Install the drilling depth gauge on the drill at the desired location.
Rallying
To obtain a wider wooden part, you can use dowels to connect two parts of the same thickness along the edge. Place two boards with the wide sides together, line up the ends exactly, and clamp the pair in a vise. On a clean edge, draw perpendicular lines indicating the center lines of each dowel. In the middle of the edge of each board, with a thickness gauge, make risks across each previously marked center line. The intersection points will be the centers of the dowel holes.
The pin connection is neat and strong.
Flange / mortise connections
A notch, tie-in or groove connection is called a corner or middle connection, when the end of one part is attached to the layer and another part. It is based on a butt joint with an end cut made in the face. It is used in frame (house frames) or box (cabinets) connections.
Types of mortise / mortise connections
The main types of butt joints are the dark/semi-dark T-joint (often this term is replaced by the term "flush/semi-flush"), which looks like a butt joint, but is stronger, a quarter corner (corner joint) and a dark/semi-dark corner joint. A corner cut into a rebate and a corner cut into a rebate with darkness / semi-darkness are made in the same way, but the rebate is made deeper - two-thirds of the material is selected.
Making a cut
1. Mark a groove on the face of the material. The distance between the two lines is equal to the thickness of the second part. Continue the lines on both edges.
2. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove between the marking lines on the edges. The depth is usually made from one quarter to one third of the thickness of the part. Mark the waste part of the material.
3. C-clamp the workpiece securely. Saw through the shoulders on the waste side of the marking lines to the desired depth. If the groove is wide, make additional cuts in the waste to make it easier to remove the material with a chisel.
Saw close to the marking line on the return side, making intermediate cuts with a wide groove.
4. Working with a chisel on both sides, remove excess material and check the flatness of the bottom. To level the bottom, you can use a primer.
With a chisel, remove the waste, working from both sides, and level the bottom of the groove.
5. Check the fit, if the piece is too tight it may need to be trimmed. Check for perpendicularity.
6. The notch connection can be strengthened by one of the following methods or a combination of them:
- gluing and clamping until the adhesive sets;
- screwing with screws through the face of the outer part;
- nailing at an angle through the face of the outer part;
- nailing obliquely through the corner.
The notch connection is strong enough
Tongue and groove connections
This is a combination of a quarter cut and a rebate cut. It is used in the manufacture of furniture and the installation of slopes of window openings.
Making a connection
1. Make the ends perpendicular to the longitudinal axes of both parts. On one part, mark the shoulder by measuring the thickness of the material from the end. Continue marking on both edges and front side.
2. Mark the second shoulder from the end, it should be at a distance of one third of the thickness of the material. Continue on both edges.
3. Use a thickness gauge to mark the depth of the groove (one third of the thickness of the material) on the edges between the shoulder lines.
4. With a hacksaw with a butt, saw through the shoulders to the risks of the thicknesser. Remove waste with a chisel and check for evenness.
5. Using a thickness gauge with the same setting, mark a line on the back and on the edges of the second part.
Adviсe:
- Tongue and groove type joints can be easily made with a router and an appropriate guide, either for the groove only or for both the groove and rebate. See p. 35.
- If the comb is too tight in the groove, trim the front (smooth) side of the comb or sand with sandpaper.
6. From the front side with a thickness gauge, make markings on the edges towards the end and on the end itself. Saw along the lines of the thickness gauge with a hacksaw with a butt. Do not cut too deep as this will weaken the connection.
7. Working with a chisel from the end, remove the waste. Check fit and adjust if necessary.
Half tree connections
Half-timber connections refer to frame connections, which are used to connect parts in layers or along an edge. The connection is made by taking the same amount of material from each part so that they are joined flush with each other.
Types of joins in half-tree
There are six main types of connections in the half-tree: transverse, angular, flush, angular mustache, dovetail and splicing.
Making a half-tree gusset
1. Align the ends of both parts. On the top side of one of the parts, draw a line perpendicular to the edges, stepping back from the end to the width of the second part. Repeat on the underside of the second piece.
2. Set the thicknesser at half the thickness of the parts and draw a line on the ends and edges of both parts. Mark the waste on the top side of one and the bottom side of the other part.
3. Clamp the part in a vise at an angle of 45° (face vertically). Carefully cut along the grain close to the thicknesser line on the back side until the saw is diagonal. Flip the piece over and continue sawing gently, gradually raising the saw handle until the saw lines up with the shoulder line on both edges.
4. Remove the part from the vise and place it on the face. Press it firmly against the hutch and clamp it with a clamp.
5. Saw through the shoulder to the previous cut and remove the waste. Align all irregularities in the sample with a chisel. Check the accuracy of the cut.
6. Repeat the process on the second piece.
7. Check the fit of the parts and, if necessary, level with a chisel. The connection must be rectangular, flush, without gaps and backlashes.
8. The connection can be strengthened with nails, screws, glue.
Corner joints on the mustache
Corner joints on the mustache are made using the bevel of the ends and hide the end grain, and also aesthetically correspond more to the angular rotation of the decorative overlay.
Types of corner connections on the mustache
To perform a bevel of the ends in a corner joint, the angle at which the parts meet is divided in half. In a traditional joint, this angle is 90°, so each end is cut at 45°, but the angle can be either obtuse or sharp. In uneven corner joints, parts with different widths are connected to the mustache.
Making a corner connection
1. Mark the length of the parts, keeping in mind that it should be measured on the long side, as the bevel will reduce the length inside the corner.
2. Having decided on the length, mark the line at 45° - on the edge or on the face, depending on where the bevel will be cut.
3. With a combination square, transfer the markup to all sides of the part.
4. When hand cutting, use a miter box and a backed hacksaw or hand miter saw. Press the part firmly against the back of the miter box - if it moves, the bevel will turn out uneven and the joint will not fit well. If you are sawing freehand, be careful not to deviate from the marking lines on all sides of the part. A miter saw, if you have one, will make a very neat bevel.
5. Place the two pieces together and check the fit. You can correct it by trimming the surface of the bevel with a planer. Firmly fix the part and work with a sharp planer, setting a small overhang of the knife.
6. The connection should be knocked down with nails through both parts. To do this, first lay the parts on the face and drive nails into the outer side of the bevel so that their tips slightly show out of the bevels.
Start nails in both parts so that the tips protrude slightly from the surface of the bevel.
7. Apply glue and squeeze the joint tightly so that one part protrudes slightly - overlaps the other. First, drive nails into the protruding part. Under hammer blows when driving nails, the part will move slightly. Surfaces must be level. Nail the other side of the connection and sink the nail heads. Check squareness.
Drive the nails into the protruding piece first, and the impact of the hammer will move the joint into position.
8. If there is a small gap due to unevenness, smooth the connection on both sides with a round screwdriver rod. This will move the fibers, which will close the gap. If the gap is too large, then you will either have to redo the connection, or close the gap with putty.
9. To reinforce the corner joint on the mustache, you can glue a wooden block inside the corner if it is not visible. If appearance is important, then the connection can be made on a plug-in spike or secured with veneer dowels. Pins or lamellas (standard flat studs) can be used inside the flat joints.
Splicing on a mustache and connection with cutting
Splicing on a mustache connects the ends of parts located on the same straight line, and a connection with a cut is used when it is necessary to connect two profile parts at an angle to each other.
Mustache splicing
When splicing with a mustache, the parts are connected by the same bevels at the ends in such a way that the same thickness of the parts remains unchanged.
Cutting connection
Connection with cutting (cutting, fitting) is used when it is necessary to connect two parts with a profile in the corner, for example, two skirting boards or cornices. If the part moves during its fastening, then the gap will be less noticeable than with a corner joint.
1. Fix the first skirting board in place. Move the second plinth close to it, located along the wall.
Fasten the first skirting board in place and press the second skirting board against it, aligning it with the wall.
2. Swipe along the profiled surface of the fixed plinth with a small wooden block with a pencil pressed against it. The pencil will leave a marking line on the plinth to be marked.
With a bar with a pencil pressed against it, attached with a tip to the second plinth, draw along the relief of the first plinth, and the pencil will mark the line of the cut.
3. Cut along the marking line. Check fit and adjust if necessary.
Complex profiles
Lay the first plinth in place and, placing the second plinth in the miter box, make a bevel on it. The line formed by the profile side and the bevel will show the desired shape. Cut along this line with a jigsaw.
Eyelet connections
Eyelet connections are used when it is required to join intersecting parts located "on the edge", either in the corner or in the middle (for example, the corner of the window frame or where the leg of the table connects to the crossbar).
Eyelet connection types
The most common types of eye connections are angle and tee (T-shaped). For strength, the connection must be glued, but you can strengthen it with a dowel.
Making an eyelet connection
1. Mark out in the same way as for but divide the thickness of the material by three to determine one third. Mark the waste on both parts. On one part, you will need to choose the middle. This groove is called an eyelet. On the second part, both side parts of the material are removed, and the remaining middle part is called a spike.
2. Saw along the fibers to the line of the shoulders along the marking lines on the side of the waste. Cut out the shoulders with a hacksaw with a butt, and you get a spike.
3. Working on both sides, select the material from the eyelet with a chisel/grooving chisel or jigsaw.
4. Check the fit and fine-tune with a chisel if necessary. Apply adhesive to the joint surfaces. Check squareness. Use a C-clamp to clamp the joint while the adhesive cures.
Spike-to-socket connection
Tongue-in-socket joints, or simply tongue-and-groove joints, are used when two pieces are joined at an angle or at an intersection. It is probably the strongest of all frame joints in carpentry and is used in the manufacture of doors, window frames and furniture.
Types of spike-to-socket connections
The two main types of stud joints are the usual stud-in-socket connection and the stepped stud-in-socket connection (semi-dark). The spike and socket are approximately two-thirds of the width of the material. The expansion of the nest is made on one side of the groove (semi-darkness), and a spike step is inserted into it from its corresponding side. Semi-darkness helps to prevent the thorn from turning out of the nest.
Standard spike-to-socket connection
1. Determine the connection position on both pieces and mark on all sides of the material. The markup shows the width of the intersecting part. The spike will be at the end of the crossbar, and the socket will go through the post. The spike should have a small allowance in length for further stripping of the connection.
2. Pick up a chisel as close as possible in size to a third of the thickness of the material. Set the thickness gauge to the size of the chisel and mark the nest in the middle of the rack between the previously marked marking lines. Work from the front. If desired, you can set the thickness solution to a third of the thickness of the material and work with it on both sides.
3. In the same way, mark the spike on the butt and both sides to mark the shoulders on the crossbar.
4. Clamp a piece of wood secondary support in a vise high enough to attach the edge-on stand to it. Fasten the post to the support by placing the clamp next to the marking of the nest.
5. Cut out the nest with a chisel, making an inward allowance of about 3 mm from each of its ends so as not to damage the edges when sampling waste. Hold the chisel straight and parallel
its edges are the plane of the rack. Make the first cut strictly vertically, placing the sharpening bevel towards the middle of the nest. Repeat from the other end.
6. Make a few intermediate cuts, holding the chisel at a slight angle and bevel down. Select the waste by using the chisel as a lever. Going deeper by 5 mm, make more cuts and select a waste. Continue until about half the thickness. Flip the part over and work the same way on the other side.
7. After removing the main part of the waste, clean the nest and cut off the allowance left earlier to the marking lines on each side.
8. Cut the spike along the fibers, leading a hacksaw with a butt along the marking line from the side of the waste, and cut out the shoulders.
9. Check fit and adjust if necessary. The shoulders of the cleat must fit snugly against the post, and the joint must be perpendicular and free from play.
10. Wedges can be inserted on both sides of the spike to secure. A gap for this is made in the nest. Working with a chisel from the outside of the nest, widen about two thirds of the depth with a 1:8 slope. Wedges are made with the same slope.
11. Apply glue and press firmly. Check squareness. Apply glue to the wedges and drive them into place. Saw off the tenon allowance and remove excess glue.
Other spike connections
Stud joints for window frames and doors are somewhat different from half-dark stud joints, although the technique is the same. Inside there is a fold and / or an overlay for glass or a panel (panel). When making a connection with a spike into a socket on a part with a seam, make the plane of the spike in line with the edge of the seam. One of the shoulders of the crossbar is made longer (to the depth of the fold), and the second is shorter so as not to block the fold.
Studded joints for parts with overlays have a cut-off shoulder to match the profile of the overlay. Alternatively, you can remove the trim from the edge of the socket and make a bevel or cut to match the counterpart.
Other types of spike-to-socket connections:
- Side spike - in the manufacture of doors.
- A hidden beveled spike in semi-darkness (with a beveled step) - to hide the spike.
- Spike in the dark (steps of the stud on its two sides) - for relatively wide details, such as the lower trim (bar) of the door.
All these connections can be through, or they can be deaf, when the end of the spike is not visible from the back of the rack. They can be reinforced with wedges or dowels.
Rallying
Wide, high-quality wood is becoming increasingly difficult to find and very expensive. In addition, such wide boards are subject to very large shrinkage deformations, which makes it difficult to work with them. To connect narrow boards along the edge into wide panels for worktops or workbench covers, rallying is used.
Training
Before starting the actual rallying, you must do the following:
- If possible, select radial sawn boards. They are less susceptible to shrinkage than tangential sawn timber. If boards of tangential sawing are used, then lay their sound side alternately in one and the other side.
- Try not to bundle materials with different sawing methods into one panel.
- Never join boards of different types of wood unless they are properly dried. They will shrink and crack.
- If possible, arrange the boards with the fibers in one direction.
- Be sure to cut the material to size before stapling.
- Use only good quality glue.
- If the wood will be polished, adjust the texture or color.
Rallying for a smooth fugue
1. Lay all boards face up. To facilitate subsequent assembly, mark the edges with a continuous pencil line drawn at an angle along the joints.
2. Plan straight edges and check the fit to the corresponding adjacent boards. Align the ends or pencil lines each time.
3. Make sure that there are no gaps and that the entire surface is flat. If you squeeze the gap with a clamp or putty it, the connection will subsequently crack.
4. When planing short pieces, clamp the two right sides together in a vise and plan both edges at the same time. It is not necessary to maintain the squareness of the edges, since when docking they will mutually compensate for their possible inclination.
5. Prepare as for a butt joint and apply adhesive. Squeeze with lapping to connect the two surfaces, squeezing out excess glue and helping the surfaces to “stick” to each other.
Other payment methods
Other fusion joints with different amplifications are prepared in the same way. These include:
- with pins (dowels);
- in a groove and a comb;
- in a quarter.
Bonding and clamping
Gluing and fixing glued parts is an important part of woodworking, without which many products will lose strength.
Adhesives
The adhesive reinforces the connection, holding the parts together so that they cannot be easily pulled apart. Be sure to wear protective gloves when handling adhesives and follow the safety instructions on the packaging. Clean the product of excess glue before it sets, as it can dull the planer knife and clog the abrasive of the skin.
PVA (polyvinyl acetate)
PVA glue is a universal glue for wood. When still wet, it can be wiped off with a cloth dampened with water. It perfectly sticks together loose surfaces, does not require long-term fixation for setting and sets in about an hour. PVA gives a fairly strong bond and sticks to almost any porous surface. Gives a permanent bond, but is not heat and moisture resistant. Apply with a brush, or for large areas dilute with water and apply with a paint roller. Since PVA glue has a water base, it shrinks when setting.
contact adhesive
Contact adhesive sticks together immediately after application and connection of parts. Apply it to both surfaces and when the glue is dry to the touch, join them. It is used for laminate (laminate) or veneer to chipboard. Fixing is not required. Cleaned with solvent. Contact adhesive is flammable. Work with it in a well ventilated area to reduce the concentration of fumes. Not recommended for outdoor use, as it is not moisture and heat resistant.
Epoxy adhesive
Epoxy is the strongest adhesive used in woodworking and the most expensive. It is a two-component resin-based adhesive that does not shrink on setting and softens when heated and does not creep under load. Water-resistant and bonds almost all materials, both porous and smooth, with the exception of thermoplastics such as polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or plexiglass (organic glass). Suitable for outdoor work. In the uncured form, it can be removed with a solvent.
hot glue
Hot melt adhesive bonds almost everything, including many plastics. Usually sold in the form of glue sticks that are inserted into a special electric glue gun for gluing. Apply glue, join surfaces and squeeze for 30 seconds. Fixing is not required. Cleaned with solvents.
Clips for fixation
Clamps come in a variety of designs and sizes, most of which are called clamps, but usually only a couple of varieties are needed. Be sure to place a piece of wood waste between the clamp and the product to avoid denting from applied pressure.
Gluing and fixing technique
Before gluing, be sure to assemble the product “dry” - without glue. Lock if necessary to check connections and overall dimensions. If everything is fine, disassemble the product, placing the parts in a convenient order. Mark the areas to be glued and prepare the clamps with the jaws/stops set apart to the desired distance.
Frame assembly
Spread the adhesive evenly with a brush on all surfaces to be glued and quickly assemble the product. Remove excess adhesive and secure assembly with clips. Compress the connections with even pressure. The clamps must be perpendicular and parallel to the surfaces of the product.
Position the clamps as close as possible to the connection. Check the parallelism of the crossbars and align if necessary. Measure the diagonals - if they are the same, then the rectangularity of the product is maintained. If not, then a slight but sharp blow to one end of the rack can even out the shape. Adjust clamps if necessary.
If the frame does not lie flat on a flat surface, use a mallet to tap the protruding sections through a piece of wood as a spacer. If that doesn't work, you may need to loosen the clamps or clamp the wood block across the frame.
In the construction of buildings, often wooden structural elements are connected with nails. But such a procedure requires certain skills. To perform work faster and easier, you can use metal corners for fastening wooden structures. With fastening components of various modifications, the amount of estimates for building materials is reduced due to a decrease in the percentage of trimming.
Fasteners for wooden structures
This fastener is an element of various configurations and sizes with a specific purpose. It is made of high quality galvanized steel and has holes for nails and bolts.
During its manufacture steel is used because it is very durable and moisture resistant. Products from it are not subject to corrosion and have a long service life.
To ensure the strength and quality of the joints, the metal elements used to fasten wooden structures manufactured only in the factory. Manufacturers provide a wide selection of various fasteners. It is important to choose them correctly for a certain type of work.
Today, the building materials market has a large selection of fasteners from different manufacturers:
In addition, similar products subdivided into classes:
- Metal. They are metal plates of various geometric shapes: a square, a corner, etc. Such fasteners contain many holes for fixing.
- Steel. These include nails, screws, anchors, bolts and dowels. These elements connect wooden structures, which are made of an alloy of various modifications and lengths.
All wooden element holders must correspond the following requirements. When using metal holders, the thickness of the timber should be at least five centimeters. This is due to the length of the nails and screws that will be used for fastening.
To prevent loosening of fasteners when the beam dries, it is necessary use ripped nails instead of the usual ones. Connecting elements are recommended to be installed in pairs parallel to each other. During installation, wooden beams connect butt to butt, gaps are not allowed.
Perforated holder
Perforated fasteners for wooden structures are widely used not only in construction, but also in everyday life and in furniture making. They have gained high popularity due to their undeniable advantages:
Perforated fasteners are made in the form narrow and wide plates, corners and other shapes. In addition to truss systems, such a connection is used in the construction of such structures:
- gazebos;
- wooden houses;
- wood finishing of building facades.
Hidden fasteners
The method of hidden fasteners is used, as a rule, to connect boards on the terrace and facade. The advantage of this fastening is that thanks to it, the elements that fasten the boards are hidden. This adds elegance to the design. Hidden fasteners can be of the following types:
Each of the above holders own modification, which is selected based on the severity of the structure and complexity.
Decorative fasteners
This type of connection is mainly used in the interior woodwork of a room to give it an aesthetic appearance. Decorative holders are made of both metal and plastic. Outwardly, they look like a plug, which is put on connecting elements of various types.
The use of joinery and carpentry joints in construction requires not only a special tool, but also considerable experience.
Therefore, for non-professionals, such connections most often turn out to be sloppy. The best option is to use new types of metal fasteners
Most of the surviving monuments of wooden architecture were erected without a single nail, with the help of only an ax, and this fact is still admired. But over the centuries, the fastening systems made of metal used for the construction of wooden houses have changed a lot, so today there is no point in repeating the "exploits" of the ancestors.
It is necessary to build simply, quickly and reliably. Consider the metal fasteners offered by manufacturers using the example of nodes and elements that make it possible to significantly simplify and speed up the connection of the floor log with beams or wooden walls, and at the same time some other operations.
1. CONNECTING ELEMENTS WITH PERFORATION
If the butt beams and logs are invisible in the interior, then they can be connected using the so-called beam shoes, produced, for example, by ESSVE. These elements are suitable for fastening wood not only to wood, but also to concrete or masonry (when using appropriate dowels).
They are made mainly of hot-dip galvanized steel with a thickness of 1.5 or 2 mm. but there are also more expensive products made of A6 acid-resistant stainless steel on the market. Shoes are available in two versions: with lapels turned outward or inward. Price: from 50 to 500 rubles. for 1 piece
The manufacturer recommends fastening the beam shoes to the elements to be joined with special anchor screws with a diameter of 5 mm (depending on the load, the latter can be inserted into all or some holes), and with a very large load or fixation to the “stone” material, also use bolt holes. In addition to anchor shoes, there are perforated universal clamps (a), rafters (b), corners (c), plates (d) shown in the figure, etc. on the market.
THE MAIN ADVANTAGE OF FASTENERS WITH PERFORATION IS ACCELERATED INSTALLATION WHILE INCREASING THE STRENGTH INDICATORS OF THE CONNECTIONS ADVANTAGES OF ANCHOR SCREWS
Why do manufacturers of perforated fasteners suggest using anchor screws? How are the latter better than ordinary self-tapping screws or anchor (ruffed) nails used to secure beam shoes and other metal perforated elements? The advantages are due to the design features of the anchor screws. Firstly, their flat head presses the metal element to be fixed more tightly against the wood.
Secondly, the smooth cylindrical part, located under the head of the screw, has the same diameter of 5 mm as the holes in the perforated metal elements. It completely fills the hole and therefore completely transfers the load, and also works well for shearing. In addition, thanks to the tapered head, the screw is better centered. An ordinary self-tapping screw does not always transfer the load completely, it works much worse for shearing. Well, the anchor nail cannot be dismantled without destroying that part of the wooden element into which it is driven. But the anchor screw is easily unscrewed and can be screwed into a wooden element in a new place.
2. METAL SYSTEMS "SHIP-GROOVE"
The element is made of aluminum and consists of two parts, one of which is equipped with a spike, the second with a corresponding groove. They are fastened to each other according to the dovetail principle, which makes it possible to ensure reliable transmission of vertical and horizontal forces, to absorb tensile and compressive forces, and even bending moments. The connection can be both visible and hidden, for which both metal parts are recessed into pre-milled grooves. The length of the Atlas nodal connector is 70-200 mm. Price - 1500-5500 rubles. for 1 piece
The main competitors of EuroTec in the Russian market are the Austrian companies PITZL and SHERPA Connection Systems, which produce a similar range of connecting elements. The more well-known system is SHERPA, which provides the bearing capacity of joints from 5 to 280 kN - a special calculation program allows you to choose fasteners for each specific case. Any connector consists of two aluminum parts, which are also fastened according to the dovetail principle. The cost of SHERPA elements is from 800 to 12 thousand rubles. for 1 piece
Another EuroTec competitor is the German company BB Stanz-und Umformtechnik. developed the connecting node BB. It is made of galvanized sheet steel with a thickness of U mm and, like its aluminum counterparts, consists of two parts that are fixed to each other according to the dovetail principle. Both halves are attached to the wood with self-tapping screws, the number of which depends on the size of the element. BB connectors are 70mm wide and 90mm long. 125, 150 and 190mm. The price is one of the most affordable today: 180-800 rubles. for 1 piece
Both parts of the Atlas connector are attached to wooden parts with self-tapping screws, twisted at an angle of 90 and 45 °. The connection is fixed with a locking screw.
CONNECTORS ALLOW YOU TO SOLVE TASKS IN A FEW MINUTES WHICH TAKE HOURS AND EVEN DAYS IN CLASSIC CONSTRUCTION TECHNOLOGIES
3. THREE-DIMENSIONAL RAILS
Three-dimensional rails are suitable for connections (using nails or screws) not only "wood-to-wood" (the minimum thickness of the log attached to the beam is 45 mm), but also "wood-to-concrete", for which products with enlarged holes for anchor bolts are offered
4. Hedgehog HIDDEN ITEMS
These unusual products allow you to save not only the time required to assemble the assembly, but also money, because connecting metal elements are not needed. Self-tapping screws are fully threaded for high pull-out resistance and are fully screwed into the wood at 30.45 or 60° angles. which fundamentally changes the way they work. In this case, the screws work only for pulling out, which allows them to take on a significant part of the forces acting on the connection. Thus, it is possible to connect parts at an angle (a), to unite elements. while reducing their deflection (b), reinforce the cutouts in the beams and lags (c) (see the figure below).
There are self-tapping screws with a cylindrical (screw diameter - 6.5; 8 and 10 mm) and countersunk (screw diameter - 8 or 11.3 mm) head. Length - 65-1000 mm. Price - 20-800 rubles. for 1 piece To install screws with a length of less than 245 mm, pre-drilling is not required, but for longer ones (to prevent drift to the side), it is recommended to pre-drill holes for a self-tapping screw to a depth of up to Uz from its length.
The special ECS program, which can be freely downloaded from the website of the self-tapping screw manufacturer or a large seller company, helps to choose the appropriate KonstruX screw, the fastening scheme of the elements, and also calculate the required number of screws.
6. SPECIAL SCREWS
With the help of a Hobotec self-tapping screw, massive boards, a blockhouse or an imitation of a bar are fixed. The head of the product is equipped with milling ribs and is easily embedded in wood, and the tip is made in the form of a drill. The cutter in the middle of the length of the screw increases the diameter of the hole, allowing you to tighten the fastened element more tightly. Self-cutters with a diameter of 3.2 mm and a length of 20 to 60 mm are made of ordinary coated steel (price - 1100-2200 rubles per pack of 500 pieces) or stainless steel (price - 3500-7500 rubles per pack of 500 pieces .).
The tightening screw is also equipped with a cutter, but its tip is different - it has a special groove. turning a screw into a drill for wood. The flat head has a large diameter and is equipped with a self-sinking head and a hexagonal slot. The self-tapping screw is coated with a special wax coating that reduces friction when screwing in. Product diameter - 3-12 mm. length - 30-600 mm. Price - from 300 to 5 thousand rubles. for a pack of 500 pcs.
An adjusting screw is useful, for example, for fastening window and door frames or wooden lathing to wood, concrete, brick or metal (the element can be equipped with two types of drilling tip). The self-tapping screw is screwed into the box and the wall or power element behind it in one step.
At the same time, the annular conical “spikes” located under the head of the screw are firmly fixed in the box (almost like a fishhook), due to which its position relative to the wall is easily adjusted by further screwing in or out of the fastener. Length - from 60 to 125 mm. Price - from 2000 to 3500 rubles. for a pack of 500 pcs.
Special elements for performing operations common in wooden housing construction: adjusting screw for window frames or battens (a); tightening screw (6); Hobotec self-tapping screw for fastening a solid board, blockhouse or timber imitation when sheathing a wooden house (c)
Self-tapping screw - vane for fastening wooden sheathing to a steel base. Equipped with a drill tip and special "wings" (located above the tip), which expand the hole in the wood and break when drilling metal. As a result, having cut a thread in the metal, the self-tapping screw is fixed in it, and the cap attracts the wooden element to the metal. Length: 32-125 mm. Price: from 500 to 2500 rubles. for a pack of 500 pcs.