We insulate the walls of panel houses from the inside. Insulation of a panel house - nuances that you did not know How to insulate panel walls inside an apartment

Panel houses have never been famous for warmth due to thin walls - both external and ceilings, therefore, apartment owners carry out insulation of a panel house from the outside at the slightest opportunity. The thermal insulation of concrete panels helps not only to make an apartment warmer in winter, but also to keep it cool in summer, so the insulation of panel houses can be considered a universal means to ensure comfort in housing. You can carry out work on your own if your apartment is not higher than the second floor - otherwise you will have to turn to industrial climbers or high-altitude builders for help.

How to insulate panel walls from the outside

Thermal insulation of the outer surface of the walls of a panel house is a much more reliable measure than insulation from the inside, and there are reasons for this:

The dew point moves towards the insulation, not the wall, and the condensate does not linger in the concrete of the panel, which, in turn, does not cause mold. Also, in winter, condensate does not freeze and does not destroy the material of the walls from the inside;
Laying insulation on the inner surfaces of the walls reduces the usable area of the room;
The layer of internal thermal insulation prevents the full heating of the walls from heating devices, which leads to the appearance of microcracks and mold, especially in corner rooms that are affected by wind and temperature loads;
The condensate that will appear as a result of this on the walls of the apartment is a direct path to the destruction of concrete and the appearance of fungal diseases of the building materials of the panel;
From the inside, it is impossible to insulate the ceilings adjacent to the walls, and in fact they serve as an excellent place where "cold bridges" appear;

Thus, it is necessary and strongly recommended to insulate the walls of a panel house only from the outside: internal insulation is an extreme measure. Insulation of the walls from the outside consists of the following working steps:

Preparation of building materials for insulation

First, choose a heater. The required materials are listed below. Demand is determined by the characteristics and cost of heaters:

Extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene is the cheapest material (its price allows you to purchase sheets in any quantity), lightweight and retains heat well. The disadvantages that everyone knows about do not stop consumers from using foam: fire hazards and brittleness of the material. Both disadvantages are eliminated in one way - by protecting the insulation by plastering. Recommendations for use: wall insulation from the outside should be carried out with foam plastic with a density of ≥ 18 kg/m 3 ;
Mineral wool is a material more durable than XPS, absolutely environmentally friendly, non-combustible. Disadvantages: the price of this thermal insulation is higher, and when working with it, it is necessary to use PPE - gloves, goggles, a respirator, since contact with mineral wool microparticles on the skin or in the respiratory tract causes irritation. The recommended density of mineral wool is ≥ 85 kg/m 3 , the thickness of the roll (plate, mat) is ≥ 100 mm.

In addition, facade insulation will require the use of the following materials:

Construction adhesive for fixing insulation materials - dry or ready-mixed. For each type of insulation, it is recommended to use the appropriate adhesive, but there are also universal adhesives on sale;
Insulation for sealing joints between panels is polyurethane foam, less often liquid polyurethane foam;
Umbrella plastic dowels for fixing foam and mineral wool;
Priming fluids for pre-treatment of walls;
Reinforcing fiberglass or metal fine mesh;
Perforated corner - metal galvanized or aluminum;
Decorative plaster for finishing;
Finishing paint.

The volume and quantity of building materials is calculated based on the insulated wall area plus a margin of 10-15%.

Preparatory work for the walls

First, all old coatings must be removed from the walls - whitewash, paint, plaster, ceramic tiles, and other materials;
The surface is cleaned of the remaining dirt and dust, if it is clean it is carried out with water - the surface is dried;
The interpanel seams are insulated. If the seam is too thin or shallow, it is better to expand it so that it does not increase itself during operation under the already applied layer of insulation;
The seams are also cleaned of dirt and moistened, after which they are filled with construction mounting foam or filled with putty for concrete;
After the putty or foam has hardened, the protruding material is cut off or knocked down.

Fastening thermal insulation materials to walls

For more economical use of the building adhesive mixture, it is preferable to buy it not ready-made, but dry. Such glue is prepared simply - it is closed with water in the proportion indicated in the instructions, and stirred with a construction mixer;
Apply the adhesive mixture to the foam or polyurethane foam with a notched trowel. It is assumed that you have already leveled the very uneven surface of the walls with plaster. If not, apply glue to the insulation board in lumps to evenly distribute the composition under the pressure that will appear when the sheets are glued to the wall;
Gluing plates or foam sheets should start from the corner of the wall and from the bottom up;
In practice, gluing plates and insulating the walls of a panel house from the outside is done by pressing the sheet against the wall, each sheet must be controlled using the building level;
The second sheet must be glued on the opposite side of the wall, and a cord must be pulled between the sheets, along which all other sheets of insulation will be aligned. To make it easier to observe the verticality and horizontality of the rows, perforated beacon corners can be installed on the wall. They are mounted on alabaster or plaster. This is how the first row of thermal insulation of a residential panel house is mounted;
The fastening scheme of the second and subsequent rows is the same, only the rows need to be shifted relative to each other in order to prevent the formation of "cold bridges" on long seams;
If you are insulating a corner room from the outside, then it is also necessary to ensure that the plates or sheets are tied along the edge of the corner, as shown in the figure below;
Further, all the plates are additionally reinforced with umbrella dowels - five pieces per sheet or plate (one in the center, the rest at the edges). At the same time, holes are drilled in the insulation plate and in the wall to the depth of the dowel length, the hardware is inserted and expansion pins are hammered into it until the dowel head sinks into the insulation by 1-2 mm. In addition to the indicated fastening scheme, the dowels must be placed at the corners between the joints of the thermal insulation boards;
The slopes of window openings are also insulated with expanded polystyrene, only it is pre-cut to size with an ordinary knife or steel string.

Preparatory work before reinforcement

Before the panel house is finally insulated from the outside, the surface of the thermal insulation is reinforced with a fiberglass mesh. To do this, perform the following operations:

The insulated surface is leveled by plastering and rubbed with a grater. In this case, all dowel caps must be closed with a solution;
A perforated corner (aluminum or metal) is attached to the outer corners of the insulated surface and window slopes. It can be attached to the glue with which thermal insulation boards are glued, but in order not to wait a long time, it is better to take alabaster or gypsum;
The gaps between the sheets of thermal insulation are sealed with foam plastic scraps for mortar, or with mounting foam;
If all these works were carried out on top of a layer of plaster, the disturbed surfaces are plastered again. The result should be a smooth, seamless surface on which the fiberglass bonding plaster will be applied.

How to reinforce the surface of the insulation

The surface of the heat-insulating layer on the wall is reinforced as follows:

First, the mesh is attached to the slopes of the windows - mesh sections of the required size are cut, and 10-15 cm must be added to overlap the mesh on the insulated corner of the wall;
An adhesive solution 3-5 mm thick is applied to the slope, the mesh is pressed onto it, leveling and engrafting movements are made on the surface of the mesh with a spatula, as a result of which the mesh should be completely pressed into the glue. Make sure that the surface is even - without seams and sagging of the solution;
After the first layer of the adhesive solution has dried, another layer is applied, which must also be carefully leveled with a spatula with a wide blade (300-800 mm);
After reinforcing the slopes, all walls with insulation are reinforced in the same way. The surface must be smooth so that the final layer of plaster can be applied without problems.

Primer

Before painting the insulated and reinforced surface, it is treated with deep penetration primers:

Before use, the primer is shaken or mixed with a mixer in a separate container. Then it is poured into a pallet designed to work with a paint roller;
The roller is dipped into the pallet by 1/3 and rolled out on the inclined surface of the pallet, and then the wall is primed with it. Primer runs should be avoided.
The primer is applied in at least two layers.

Plastering

Plastering with decorative plaster is a quick and easy process:

The dry mixture is closed with water and stirred according to the attached instructions;
With the help of a narrow roller, the plaster is collected on a spatula with a wide blade, from the spatula it is spread in a thin layer, which should be even. The thickness of the plaster is determined by the size of the aggregate grains in the dry mix. Usually it is 3-5 mm with a flat wall surface;
After the initial hardening of the plaster (40-60 minutes), the layer is rubbed with a special board - small, to give the surface a patterned texture.

Painting the walls of a panel house

The last stage in the insulation of the walls of a panel house is painting the walls:

Acrylic paint is thoroughly mixed and tinted in a separate container in order to capture as much of the surface as possible with one portion of staining;
They work with paint in the same way as with a primer: the roller is dipped into the pallet, the finishing movements of the roller along the wall should be in one direction;
It is necessary to distribute the paint on the wall in a very thin layer so that there are no streaks and sags;
Where the roller does not reach, tint with a narrow paint brush;

The paint is applied in two or three layers, each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has dried.

September 3, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Recently, with the constant increase in energy prices, people tend to insulate their apartments. This procedure really allows you to save on heating and make your home more comfortable, but at the same time, it must be done correctly so that you do not encounter a number of problems later. Therefore, in this article we will consider how to insulate the walls of an apartment inside, and whether it makes sense to do this at all.

Is it worth it to insulate the walls from the inside

Insulating walls from the inside, of course, is much easier than from the outside. However, I will immediately note that this is far from the best solution for a number of reasons:

after the installation of thermal insulation, the walls will no longer warm up at all, as a result of which between them and the wall will be formed. This, in turn, can lead to the formation of mold and even the appearance of cracks on the walls;
when the heater is located from the inside, it is not possible to insulate the ceiling, as a result, the ceiling also turns out to be “cold”, and condensation may form on it;
insulation from the inside takes up living space. In a large apartment, this, of course, will be practically unnoticeable, but for a Khrushchev apartment, where every square centimeter counts, the usable area decreases significantly.

This raises the question - why do internal insulation at all, if it has so many shortcomings? The fact is that it is not always possible to insulate the walls from the outside. For example, if the facade of your house faces the central city street or square, then local authorities are unlikely to allow you to change its appearance.

In addition, sometimes it is not possible to perform external insulation for technical reasons, for example, if the wall is adjacent to an unheated elevator shaft. Thus, it makes sense to implement wall insulation from the inside in the apartment in the following cases:

if it is not possible to place the insulation outside;
if internal insulation is used as an addition to the external one. Even if the additional insulation on the walls is thin enough, it will become much more comfortable inside the housing.

After the walls are insulated from the inside, it is necessary to ensure high-quality ventilation of the room, since the apartment, in fact, turns into a large sealed thermos. This, in turn, will lead to an increase in humidity and a deterioration in the microclimate.

In other cases, it is better to insulate the apartment from the outside.

Warming technology

The process of insulating walls with your own hands from the inside includes several stages:

Each of these stages has its own nuances, which we will discuss below.

Preparation of materials

You need to start work on insulation, of course, with the preparation of materials. Since people are often interested in the best way to insulate housing from the inside, I will say a few words about the insulation.

In principle, you can use any thermal insulation material, since their degree of thermal conductivity differs slightly. However, it should be borne in mind that the material will not be located in housing, but outside it. Therefore, it is better to refuse polystyrene, but mineral wool is a good solution - this heat insulator is much more environmentally friendly, and also fireproof.

In addition to insulation, you will need the following materials:

vapor barrier film - prevents the penetration of moisture into the insulation. If it is not used, then the insulation will be saturated with water, which entails a number of negative consequences;

material for mounting the frame - it can be wooden bars or boards. However, most often they use a regular mounting profile. In this case, you will need more brackets and guides;
drywall or other material for sheathing the frame (lining, plastic panels, etc.)

To complete the purchase of all these materials, you must first calculate the square of the walls. Knowing what the price of each of the materials is, you can calculate the cost of internal insulation in advance.

Wall preparation

So, we figured out how to insulate the walls of the apartment from the inside. Now let's get to work.

As mentioned above, before insulating the wall from the inside in the apartment, it must be prepared. This is done as follows:

first of all, it is necessary to remove the old coating from the wall - wallpaper, tiles, etc. If the wall is covered with gypsum putty or plaster, it is also desirable to remove it.
As mentioned above, moisture will form between the wall and the insulation, as a result of which the gypsum will soak, respectively, this will not lead to anything good. You can remove the plaster with a chisel and a hammer or a puncher turned on in impact mode.

then be sure to treat the wall with antiseptics that will prevent mold. Instructions for use of drugs are usually available on the package.

To achieve the maximum effect of insulation, it is necessary to insulate the ceiling as well, i.e. overlap, which will be adjacent to the frozen wall. This can be done using the wet method - glue the mineral wool plates and additionally fix them with dowels. The surface of the insulation is plastered, on our portal you can get detailed information on how this is done.

This completes the preparation process.

Arrangement of the ventilation gap

The process of arranging the ventilation gap is carried out at the stage of waterproofing the walls. It should be noted that many construction sites offer thermal insulation from the inside without a ventilation gap.

The big disadvantage of such a scheme is that moisture is necessarily formed between the wall and the insulation, which does not go anywhere, which leads to the destruction of the wall. Therefore, it is better to refuse its implementation.

Arrangement of the ventilation gap is carried out in the following sequence:

attach wooden slats about two centimeters thick to the walls. You can arrange them horizontally in increments of about a meter. You can attach the slats to the walls with dowel-nails.
The slats must first be treated with a protective compound so that they do not rot in a humid environment;
then several holes must be made in the wall in order for the ventilation gap to work. To do this, drill holes with a diameter of about 20 mm. To prevent the holes from clogging, they must be protected with a mesh;
further, a vapor barrier film is attached to the resulting crate. Moreover, it should be stretched so that a ventilation gap is formed between the wall and the film.

To drill holes from the inside in a panel house for dowel-nails, you should use a puncher with a pobedit drill.

Frame installation

The frame consists of vertical racks, which are arranged in increments equal to the width of the heat insulator plates. In order for the insulation to fit securely to the uprights, the step between them can be made even a centimeter less than the width of the insulation.

The frame assembly process is as follows:

first of all, mark the walls, according to which the racks and rails will be located. It should be noted that the distance between the wall (vapor barrier in our case) and the rails that will be mounted on the ceiling and floor must be no less than the thickness of the heat insulator so that the insulation can fit inside the frame;
further, brackets are attached to the vapor barrier rails according to the markings, which will hold the racks. Multiple brackets should be used for each rack. For mounting the latter, self-tapping screws are usually used;
rack rails are then attached to the floor and ceiling. They should be located strictly opposite each other so that the racks stand vertically. Therefore, before performing their installation, you should make sure that the markup is accurate;
then the racks are inserted into the rails and fixed with brackets, as shown in the diagram above.

For cutting a metal profile, you can use special scissors for metal.

By the same principle, the installation of the frame from the bars is carried out. The only thing is that in this case guides are not used, so the racks are installed simply according to the markings.

The installation of the insulation is extremely simple - if the racks are located correctly, then the mineral wool plates are simply inserted between them, and their additional fixation is not required. The only thing to avoid cold bridges should be filled with insulation and the space between the wall and the racks.

To do this, you can cut the mineral wool into strips of the required size. You can cut the plates with an ordinary hacksaw for wood.

Mineral wool fibers getting on the skin and especially in the eyes cause severe irritation. Therefore, when working with it, use personal protective equipment.

If gaps form between the mineral wool plates, they must also be filled with insulation. In addition, it is necessary to ensure a tight fit of the mineral wool to the floor and ceiling. I note that these, at first glance, trifles should not be neglected, since the effectiveness of insulation largely depends on them.

After the insulation is laid, another layer of vapor barrier should be fixed to the frame. If the frame is wooden, then you can use a construction stapler to fix it.

If the frame is metal, the vapor barrier can be temporarily fixed with tape. Subsequently, the film will be fixed with sheathing material.

On forums, people are often interested in how to insulate a wall from the inside in a corner apartment? In fact, the technology is no different.

Frame sheathing

As a rule, the sheathing of the frame in the apartment is carried out with drywall. Therefore, in the end, I will briefly describe the technology of its installation and further finishing:

work must begin with cutting drywall into sheets of a suitable size. To do this, mark the sheets, then cut the cardboard on one side along the marked line with a mounting knife, then break the sheet, and then cut the cardboard on the other side;
prepared sheets should be attached to the frame with self-tapping screws, which should be located at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. Self-tapping screws must be recessed;

then, at the joints of the sheets, you need to cut a chamfer 5 mm wide. If the end is rounded, the chamfer does not need to be cut;
then a special self-adhesive mesh is glued to the seams between the sheets;

further, the caps of the self-tapping screws and the joints between the sheets are smeared with gypsum putty;
after that, the entire surface of the walls is puttied. On our portal you can find detailed information on how to properly perform puttying;
then the surface is polished with a special grater, on which the mesh is put on:
after that, another layer of finishing putty is applied and final sanding is performed.

Sanding must be done in bright light. In this case, you will see all the flaws that need to be eliminated.

This completes the wall cladding and finishing process. Now you can paint it or, for example, stick wallpaper on it.

If lining or wooden panels are used as cladding, they are simply attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. Accordingly, the skin takes much less time.

Here, in fact, is all the information on how to insulate the walls of an apartment from the inside with your own hands.

Conclusion

I told you how to insulate the walls inside with minimal negative consequences. Therefore, do not try to simplify the process and move away from the technology outlined above. Its observance will allow you to make the apartment really warm and cozy.

For more information, see the video in this article. If you encounter any difficulties in the process of warming or some points are not clear to you, ask questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

September 3, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

It is worth thinking about how to insulate a wall in a corner apartment from the inside even before the onset of winter frosts. Many, especially residents of the northern regions, are well aware that you should not rely on a home heating system. Therefore, it is best to prepare tools and materials in advance and insulate the corner apartment yourself. Moreover, it is not as difficult to do as it seems.

Why insulate corner-type apartments?

Despite the rapid growth in the number of modern residential complexes, many Russians still live in outdated Khrushchev apartments. These buildings are distinguished by old heating systems and do not withstand sudden weather changes. First of all, residents of corner apartments suffer from this. With the first cold snaps, it becomes cold in their dwellings, because cool air very quickly penetrates into the cracks in the walls of buildings. Another important reason for the need to install insulation lies in the layout of corner apartments. In them, not one, but two walls border the street, which further aggravates the situation of the residents. In such situations, even the presence of batteries and additional heaters does not save the inhabitants.

Due to severe frosts, the corners of adjacent walls of the room are frosted over. As a result, plaster and wallpaper depart from the surface, which causes the appearance of mold and fungus. In the corner rooms it becomes very damp, and an unpleasant smell forms, which interferes with normal living. Unable to withstand such conditions, sooner or later people ask themselves: "How to insulate a corner bedroom or living room?". With the help of this necessary procedure, you can not only make your stay more comfortable, but also save on heating. Plus, the residents of the house will be protected from dangerous fungi that cause asthma and other respiratory diseases.

Choosing a material - mineral wool or polystyrene?

Today, in order to, there are a lot of different materials. They are classified into those that are used for installation outside, and those that are intended for installation inside the house. It is worth remembering that some kind of universal material does not exist, because each of the heaters has its own advantages and disadvantages. Among the main requirements for materials, we can distinguish:

high thermal conductivity;
air tightness;
ability to absorb moisture;
appropriate environmental friendliness;
resistance to ignition;
long service life.

Using the crate

To have an idea about the properties of the most popular materials, it is worth considering each of them in more detail. Mineral wool has long been considered the most popular insulation. The main raw material for the production of this insulation is basalt. The material is among the products with a low degree of flammability. Even if the product starts to burn, it does not emit acrid smoke that can somehow harm a person.

Installing mineral wool does not require skills. This material is very malleable and plastic, it is tightly pressed against the wall and does not lag behind it for a long time. However, after a certain time, cotton wool absorbs moisture and begins to deform. In addition, as a result of the research, it was found that the material contains a small proportion of substances that adversely affect the human respiratory tract. Among other shortcomings, it is worth highlighting the large mass of the product, which makes its installation alone difficult.

Another popular material is polystyrene foam or, as it is also called, polystyrene foam. This is polystyrene well whipped with a powerful mixer, cooled to low temperatures. The prices for this product are very low, and installation does not require skills and high physical costs. The lion's share of the composition of the material is ordinary air, so it is absolutely harmless to the health of residents. This insulation is one of the few that can be used both for work outside and inside the building. The reason is resistance to temperature changes from -170 to +60 ° C.

Insulation can be mounted on various surfaces. It does not require the use of special fasteners. Another advantage of the material is its long service life. In addition to the advantages, the insulation has its drawbacks. So, the material cannot be used for installation in a wooden building, as it produces a large amount of condensate inside it. However, the product works perfectly in a brick building or in buildings built from concrete blocks.

Installation of insulation inside a panel building - where to start?

Features of the installation of the material may vary slightly, depending on the type of building. The first option that we will consider is a panel building. So that in the rooms of a corner apartment, first of all, it is necessary to clean the surfaces. Therefore, it is best to mount the material immediately before performing cosmetic or major repairs. As soon as the surfaces are cleaned, proceed with the installation of waterproofing in the form of special polymer membranes. In the vast majority of cases, their role is played by polyethylene films with a thickness of no more than 0.3 mm.

Insulation of the apartment from the inside

When stretching the waterproofing, it is very important to install the material as accurately as possible, without leaving any section of the wall open. To do this, select the membrane clearly in accordance with the area of \u200b\u200bthe apartment. If there are no whole pieces of material on sale, it can be purchased in the form of wide strips. The next step will be the installation of a wooden or metal crate. An important nuance - if the structure is made of wood, it will need to be treated with an antiseptic before installation. The distance between the partitions of the crate should not be less than the width of one unit of insulation.

So, if you bought polyurethane foam slabs with a width of 2 m, then the distance between the partitions of the structure should also be 2 m. So you can install insulation without leaving gaps

Insulation installation

After installing the crate, it's time to install the material for insulation. Most products are made in the form of mats, one side of which is springy. When you squeeze the material, it shrinks, and then immediately returns to its original shape. This makes the installation of insulation much easier. After installation, the surfaces of the material are pulled over with a vapor barrier. It will provide insulation of walls and insulation from condensate. At this stage, you also need to try to act as accurately as possible, without leaving cracks or grooves. For greater reliability, sealant should be applied at the joints of the vapor barrier.

Installing material in a brick building - tips for amateurs

The process of installing insulation inside a brick building has its own characteristics and is slightly different from the insulation of rooms in a panel building. At the same time, there should not be any special difficulties in the process of work. Since expanded polystyrene is considered the most popular material for this type of work, we will consider the algorithm of work using the example of this particular insulation.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

First of all, you need to properly prepare the surface of the brick wall. If there is no plaster on it, then it must be applied. If you are starting to install insulation in an already living room, then dismantle the wall decoration and putty before installation. If necessary, level the surface of the walls, seal all gaps and cracks and apply a primer that will penetrate into the smallest and deepest pores. It is important that the primer contains substances with antiseptic properties.

The next step is to dilute the glue. This is done strictly according to the instructions for use of the composition. We apply the mixture to the surface of the walls with a smooth spatula, after which we work through the layer with a tool with teeth. Without waiting for the glue to dry, we take sheets of expanded polystyrene and apply them in turn to the wall, pressing tightly and holding for several seconds. It makes no sense to use dowels to fix the insulation, since the glue will perfectly hold the material on the wall.

We mount plates without gaps

When installing each plate, make sure that there are no gaps between them! Remember that the denser the material is installed, the warmer it will be in your apartment. Further actions depend only on your plans. If you decide to put putty on top of the insulation, you will need to prime the surface before that. If plaster is to be applied, a reinforcing mesh must be installed.

Styrofoam grades - the most popular insulation

In stores you can find not one, but several brands of polystyrene foam at once. Depending on the method of production of the material, the inscriptions "PS" and "PSB" can be found on the packages. The first means that the material was made by pressing, and the second - non-pressing. In addition to this marking, there are also numbers on the foam packaging. What do they mean?

So, S-15- This is a very dense material produced by the non-pressing method. This foam is great for outdoor work in multi-storey buildings, it is often used to insulate attics and roofs. Among its properties, it is worth highlighting environmental friendliness, high moisture resistance and fire resistance. S-25 PSB- This is another insulation made by a non-pressing method. This foam is great for installation in corner apartments, as it has all the necessary qualities for this. In addition, this type of expanded polystyrene is often used to insulate floors and loggias.

Styrofoam grade S-35 PSB

If there are a large number of communications in the walls, or their installation is only planned, then for better insulation it is worth choosing brand foam S-35 PSB. The great advantage of the material is its resistance to bad weather conditions. It is absolutely not afraid of mechanical damage and has high fire resistance. The most dense is the expanded polystyrene brand S-50 PSB. It is often used in regions where hail often falls and strong winds blow. Such a heater is not afraid of precipitation, condensation or mechanical damage. True, its cost is quite high.

Mineral foam - how to decide?

This material is also in high demand due to its characteristics and reliability. However, not all of its brands are suitable for certain jobs. So, cotton wool with markings P-75 will be an excellent heater in corner apartments. She is not afraid of moisture and fire. However, if this material is not laid correctly, it deforms very quickly due to the ability to absorb condensate vapors. Mineral wool P-125 denser and stronger than the first type. It is often mounted outside brick and concrete buildings in regions with a mild climate. However, it is completely unsuitable for use in buildings located in the northernmost regions of Russia. Another disadvantage of this material is its high cost.

Cotton wool stamps PPZh-200 and PZh-175 characterized by increased density and rigidity. She is not afraid of fluctuations in temperature, the influence of frequent precipitation. The only drawback is the large mass of plates. To insulate housing, it is required to involve 3-4 people. As for the manufacturers of the material, the products of companies are considered to be of the highest quality. Isover, Ursa, rockwool and Isorok.

Insulation of the apartment from the inside most often becomes necessary in houses with panel walls, since they are not thick enough, they quickly cool down, the heating system cannot fully cope with its tasks, and the temperature in the rooms drops. How to insulate a wall inside an apartment, and what methods and materials to use - this question arises before most homeowners in concrete high-rise buildings. External walls in such houses become cold especially quickly, and often, due to temperature changes, they begin to dampen and become covered with mold.

Sometimes, when there is such an opportunity, the thermal insulation of the walls is carried out from the outside, as this — more efficient way keeping warm. However, this option is very expensive due to the complexity of its implementation, and it is impossible to carry out such events on your own, without the use of special equipment, if the apartment is located above the first or second floor. Therefore, a decision is made to insulate the walls from the inside, to the detriment of the total usable area. But be that as it may, a warm apartment of a slightly smaller area is better than large cold rooms. Internal work may well be carried out with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists. The main thing is to choose the right material and have the right tools.

If autonomous heating equipment is installed in the apartment, then wall insulation will help save energy resources, which are very expensive today.

Disadvantages of internal insulation

Compared with the external thermal insulation of the walls, the internal insulation of the apartment has its rather significant drawbacks:

An insulated wall does not accumulate or retain heat, and heat losses range from 8 to 15%.

With internal insulation, the “dew point” may be inside the insulation, which leads to dampness

The “dew point” for internal thermal insulation is between the insulation and the wall, sometimes inside the insulation layer. This leads to the formation of condensation and the appearance of mold colonies. .
An improperly insulated wall from the inside will freeze all the time, and this inevitably causes irreversible destructive processes in the thickness of the material over time.

Proper insulation

So that condensation does not form under the thermal insulation layer from temperature changes in the winter, and, as a result, mold spots do not appear on the walls, all technological recommendations for insulating concrete walls from the inside of the apartment must be carefully followed.

An important element in the structure of the thermal insulation "pie" is a high-quality vapor barrier. It should protect the insulation from moisture penetration, which will allow the entire structure to effectively perform its functions for a long time.

What work needs to be done to achieve the goal?

It is necessary to purchase a high quality vapor barrier film and waterproof tape to seal the seams on the connection of its sheets.
For the insulation layer, you need to choose a material that has low vapor permeability. It is desirable that this indicator be lower than the vapor permeability of the wall material. In this case, moisture evaporation will occur towards the street, and not inside the apartment.
When gluing the insulation, its surface is completely smeared with glue using spatula-comb, and it is pressed very tightly against the surface of the wall, so that even small cavities do not remain between them.
In order to avoid the occurrence of excessively high relative humidity inside the premises, they must be equipped with additional ventilation of a natural or forced type. For example, for this, valves are installed on the window frames, through which air will enter the room.

Next, you need to accurately calculate the required thickness of the insulation. It will depend on the average daily temperature in the region in winter. The thickness of the thermal insulation material should not be less than those parameters that were obtained during the calculations, otherwise the steam-thermal balance will be violated.
Before installing the insulation system, the walls must be treated with special primers. They will "treat" the wall, will not allow mold colonies to form on it, and will also increase adhesion when gluing thermal insulation.
Installation of insulation can only be started after the wall has completely dried.
It is impossible to allow the formation of "cold bridges", which can nullify the entire insulation process. The risk of their occurrence is especially high at the junctions of walls and ceilings.

What heaters and how are they used

Cork is an excellent natural material for thermal insulation.

Such a thermal insulator is made in the form of plates or rolls from the bark of a special variety of oak - cork. Therefore, it is an environmentally friendly safe insulation, which is very important for interior decoration.

Using high quality material, you can solve three problems at once - these are noise and sound insulation, as well as decorative wall decoration.

An important condition for the installation of cork coating is the evenness of the wall, therefore, before proceeding with its gluing, it is necessary to carefully prepare the surface. This process is carried out as follows:

The old coating is completely peeled off the wall.
Then the entire surface is treated, which will protect the wall from damage by fungus or mold.

The next step is to level the surface.
You can ennoble the walls with drywall, but in this case, the sheet must be completely smeared with waterproof glue or mounting foam, so that there are no voids under it. Drywall is firmly pressed against the wall and additionally fixed with anchors or plastic "fungi".
Cork material can be glued onto a dried wall. To do this, use a special glue designed for such purposes.

The positive qualities of the material, in addition to its environmental friendliness, low thermal conductivity and good noise absorption, include:

Ease of installation of cork wall covering while maintaining accuracy in work.
Aesthetically attractive respectable look.
Always warm and pleasant to the touch surface of the material.
A variety of release forms, textured patterns and shades.

Cork is not only an excellent thermal insulator. It will give the room a special decorative effect.

Cork insulation does not have a large thickness, therefore it does not make the area of the room smaller - this quality compares favorably with other thermal insulation materials.

Penofol

Penofol, in essence, is a rolled polyethylene foam with a thickness of 2 to 10 mm, on one side of which it is applied, which contributes to the reflection of heat into the room.

Penofol - foamed polyethylene with a foil coating

Before its installation, the surface is prepared in the same way as for a cork coating.
Penofol can be fixed to even walls with the help of construction double-sided tape. Under any circumstances, the material is placed with the foil side into the room. This creates a kind of thermos for efficient heat retention.
stripes penofol are laid end to end. Between themselves, they are glued with a special adhesive tape, which also has a foil-coated reflective surface, since the entire coating must be airtight.

On top of the penofol fixed to the wall, a crate of slats, bars or galvanized metal profiles is installed. This frame with a tanet base for mounting lining or wall cladding with plasterboard sheets. The plasterboard surface can subsequently be covered with plaster, wallpapered, or carefully puttied and sanded, and then painted.
When installing drywall or lining, it is very important to leave a gap at the top and bottom of the structure, which will serve as a vent for air circulation so that moisture does not accumulate.

Despite its small thickness, penofol is an excellent heat and sound insulator. It is used as a separate insulation, but it can also be used in combination with other materials. It attracts with the simplicity and speed of laying on walls, floors or ceilings, as well as with a long service life.

Video: insulation of internal walls with foil material

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

When choosing a material for insulating a dwelling from the inside, you must first examine all the surfaces of the walls on which thermal insulation will be installed. If the wall is dry and there are no mold spots on it, then you can start preparing the surface and purchase insulation material. It is strictly forbidden to carry out such work on an unprepared basis. Not only will such insulation not give the desired effect - you can thoroughly spoil the apartment atmosphere, make it damp, unhealthy, since spores of many types of mold or fungus are extremely dangerous for people's health, especially for those suffering from chronic respiratory diseases or a predisposition to allergic reactions. .

In general, any of the apartment methods presented in the publication from the inside will not require any complex additional equipment, and this technological process can be carried out independently.

Insulation of the apartment from the inside most often becomes necessary in houses with panel walls, since they are not thick enough, they quickly cool down, the heating system cannot fully cope with its tasks, and the temperature in the rooms drops. How to insulate a wall inside an apartment, and what methods and materials to use - this question confronts most homeowners in concrete high-rise buildings. External walls in such houses become cold especially quickly, and often, due to temperature changes, they begin to dampen and become covered with mold.

Sometimes, when there is such an opportunity, the thermal insulation of the walls is carried out from the outside, since this is - more efficient way keeping warm. However, this option is very expensive due to the complexity of its implementation, and it is impossible to carry out such events on your own, without the use of special equipment, if the apartment is located above the first or second floor. Therefore, a decision is made to insulate the walls from the inside, to the detriment of the total usable area. But be that as it may, a warm apartment of a slightly smaller area is better than large cold rooms. Internal work may well be carried out with your own hands, without the involvement of specialists. The main thing is to choose the right material and have the right tools.

If autonomous heating equipment is installed in the apartment, then wall insulation will help save energy resources, which are very expensive today.

Compared with the external thermal insulation of the walls, the internal insulation of the apartment has its rather significant drawbacks:

An insulated wall does not accumulate or retain heat, and heat losses range from 8 to 15%.

With internal insulation, the “dew point” may be inside the insulation, which leads to dampness

The "dew point" for internal thermal insulation is between the insulation and the wall, sometimes inside the insulation layer. This leads to the formation of condensation and the appearance of mold colonies.
An improperly insulated wall from the inside will freeze all the time, and this inevitably causes irreversible destructive processes in the thickness of the material over time.

Proper insulation

So that condensation does not form under the thermal insulation layer from temperature changes in winter, and also, as a result, mold spots do not appear on the walls, you must carefully follow all the technological recommendations for warming concrete walls from the inside of the apartment.

What work needs to be done to achieve the goal?

It is necessary to purchase a high quality vapor barrier film and waterproof tape to seal the seams on the connection of its sheets.
For the insulation layer, you need to choose a material that has low vapor permeability. It is desirable that this indicator be lower than the vapor permeability of the wall material. In this case, moisture evaporation will occur towards the street, and not inside the apartment.
When gluing the insulation, its surface is completely smeared with glue using spatula-comb, and it is pressed very tightly against the surface of the wall, so that even small cavities do not remain between them.
In order to avoid the occurrence of excessively high relative humidity inside the premises, they must be equipped with additional ventilation of a natural or forced type. For example, for this, valves are installed on the window frames through which air will enter the room.

Next, you need to accurately calculate the required thickness of the insulation. It will depend on the average daily temperature in the region in winter. The thickness of the thermal insulation material should not be less than those parameters that were obtained during the calculations, otherwise the steam and heat balance will be violated.
Before installing the insulation system, the walls must be treated with special primers. They will "treat" the wall, will not allow mold colonies to form on it, and will also increase adhesion when gluing thermal insulation.
Installation of insulation can only be started after the wall has completely dried.
It is impossible to allow the formation of "cold bridges", which can nullify the entire insulation process. The risk of their occurrence is especially high at the junctions of walls and ceilings.

What heaters and how are they used

For the process of wall insulation from the inside, several types of heaters are applicable. Which one to choose is up to the homeowner to decide after he gets to know their characteristics and installation methods better.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a traditional material for insulating interior work, but for concrete exterior walls, you need to choose a type of thermal insulator that has a very high density - this creates vapor tightness, and in this case it is necessary. The property of mineral wool to pass air, i.e. It is rather harmful to “breathe” in this situation, since condensation will form on the wall during temperature changes. To avoid this, it is necessary to choose mineral wool with a high density, comparable to expanded polystyrene.

In addition, high-quality installation of vapor barrier is necessary. If all these conditions are not met, the work will be done in vain, since after the appearance of fungus and the smell of dampness in the premises, the structure will have to be dismantled. Therefore, to insulate external walls that are not insulated from the street, it is better to refuse to use mineral wool, or to use only its dense types with the creation of the necessary air gap for ventilation. Learn more about it in this video:

Video: wall insulation inside using mineral wool

Styrofoam

Styrofoam, polystyrene foam or penoplex are more suitable for insulating external walls from inside the apartment. These materials have all the necessary properties, the main of which is low thermal conductivity. In addition to this quality, expanded polystyrene has other important characteristics that predetermine the possibility of its use specifically for internal thermal insulation works:

Extruded polystyrene foam is an excellent insulation, but "eats" a lot of usable area

The mass of the material is small, and this facilitates installation. In addition, the hard and flat surface allows you to fix it well on the wall.
Expanded polystyrene is easy to process - if necessary, it can be cut with a construction knife.
The material is able to withstand tearing forces and strong compression, which often occur in walls, for example, during temperature changes or structural shrinkage.

Since ordinary or extruded polystyrene foam practically does not absorb moisture, it will not allow it to enter the “dew point”, therefore, using this material, you can not use a vapor barrier. At the joints of walls and floor slabs, cold bridges can be insulated with mounting foam. You can also fix the plates to the wall surface with foam - it, expanding, will fill all the gaps between insulation boards and the wall, making the surface airtight. Special locking grooves and spikes available on the plates of extruded polystyrene foam will help to make the surface whole.

Having installed a number of plates, they are attached to the wall with the help of special “fungus” fasteners. To do this, the mounted panels are drilled through, making a hole in the wall, and then fasteners are hammered into it.

It should be noted that the foam does not dampen the noise enough and this is one of its shortcomings. In addition, any of the types of expanded polystyrene is combustible, to one degree or another, and when ignited, it releases substances hazardous to human health.

After installing the plates and "sealing" all the cracks and seams, the thermal insulation layer can be plastered or covered with drywall sheets.

Video: insulation of the inner wall with expanded polystyrene panels

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a form of all-foaming polymer that is sprayed onto the prepared wall using special equipment. At the household level, almost everyone met him if they used polyurethane foam.

A crate made of wooden beams is pre-fixed to the wall to be insulated, which will serve as support guides for the sprayed material, as well as the basis for fixing decorative finishes or plasterboard sheathing.

Polyurethane foam is good because it penetrates into all cracks and irregularities, creating a seamless sealed surface that fits snugly, without any "pockets" and voids to the load-bearing wall, leaving no cavities for condensate to accumulate.

This material is moisture resistant and has a very low thermal conductivity. When deciding to use polyurethane foam, you can safely refuse hydro and vapor barrier.

Installation of polyurethane foam is carried out quickly enough, but without special equipment it will not work to produce it on your own, so you will have to invite specialists.

Insulation with polyurethane foam is very effective, but only specialists can carry it out

In addition to the above positive qualities of this material, the following can be mentioned:

After spraying, polyurethane foam quickly acquires volumetric shapes and hardens. Thus, having installed such a thermal insulation layer, the very next day you can safely proceed with the installation of drywall.
The insulation perfectly seals the "cold bridges" at the junctions of the planes.
Polyurethane foam has good adhesive qualities with any, even and uneven surfaces and perfectly isolates the dew point from the penetration of moisture to it from the inside.
The material is convenient for warming rooms that have non-standard shapes, for example, if the transition from wall to ceiling has an arch structure or the walls are made in a curved configuration.
Such a coating can have any - plasterboard or plaster exterior finish, at the choice of the owners of insulated housing.

Video: wall insulation from the inside with polyurethane foam spraying

Cork

Another material for insulation, the installation of which can be done independently, is cork.

Insulation of the apartment with mineral wool

With this technique, the walls do not require special preparation, they do not even need to be plastered. Wooden or metal slats are immediately attached to the surface. The height of the rails must correspond to the thickness of the heat insulator, the distance between them is taken as the width of the roll (mat) minus 2 cm to ensure a tight entry of the material into the frame.

A vapor barrier film is laid on top of the rails; it can be attached to the wall with “liquid nails”. Next, mineral wool is laid, on top of which another layer of vapor barrier is performed. After that, the entire structure is covered with drywall, the sheets of which are attached directly to the rails. Further finishing is a matter of taste of the owners.

Plaster as a method of insulation

Plastering of wall surfaces is one of the oldest ways of insulating a dwelling by a person. Nevertheless, it is still effectively used today according to proven modern technology in three layers:

The first layer (5-10 mm) is sprayed. It is applied with a liquid mortar to fill cracks and crevices.
The second layer (50-60 mm) is the primer. Acts as a heat insulator
The third layer (3-5 mm) - covering, finishing alignment of the wall

It remains to be added that this method is a champion in environmental cleanliness and hygiene of the premises.

Categories

Popular